I work with Kaizen foam on a regular basis at both work and at home. Here's a couple of extra tips: 1. Some markers will not wipe away, and I can't stand seeing the marks afterwards. For that reason I use the tape from lint rollers to lay out where I'm going to make my marks. I apply the tape to the top of the foam and then I draw things out on the tape. The tape cuts easily as you cut through to the foam. The great thing about lint roller tape is that its very wide, covering areas quickly, is plenty sticky but easily pulls away from the foam without damaging it, and most lint roller tape has an edge that has no adhesive, so you can get a hold of the edge of the tape without accidentally pinching the foam, which would otherwise damage the foam as you pull away and accidentally pull at the foam. 2. When you cut the piece of foam you want to use, you can make those cuts on a table saw to get perfect cuts. Just go a little slower, because the foam has enough flex that going to fast and getting crazy will make it fight back, and while foam kicking back may not be dangerous, any unintended movement of the foam will add cuts where you don't want them. So, slow and steady, and make sure it stays up against the fence. Also, if you use a blade guard, raise it up just enough so that it doesn't touch the foam. If you let the guard touch it on the way through, it will create a line defect along the whole piece. 3. When you have items that are perfect circles, they can be cut out with hole saws. Note, though, that not all hole saws and their teeth are cooperative, so test it out on a piece of scrap first. 4. When you look at the edge of the foam, you will notice the layers; not just the black outer layers and one red layer (or whatever color), but also the layers of the core (in this case the red). The red layer has 5 separate layers. To get the most accurate and consistent surface at the bottom of your cutouts, you'll want to try ripping the scrap out in between those layers. To increase the odds of success, extend your blade to the depth you want to cut and then hold it along the edge of the foam and see where that puts the tip of the blade. If it puts the tip in the middle of the layers, either retract or extend the blade ever so slightly to get the tip right at the line between layers. This means you're more likely to get started in between layers and therefore makes it easier to stay at that layer across the full removal of the scrap piece. 5. There is a tool you can buy with a round disk on the end that heats up. You can use such a tool to smooth out any imperfect cutout bottoms, and it's also great for making perfect finger holes. 6. Fast cap has a knife with a blade that is about a third of the width of the smallest knife in this video. If you cut any tight radius corners or profiles in general, you'll want this knife. Any other knife cannot effectively deal with tight angles.
These are all great tips! I'll pin this comment so everyone can see it at the top list of the comments. I'll try out the round disk that heats up and the smaller knife. I still have a few more drawers to do with new tools. Thanks for sharing all these tips. It's great to hear from someone who works with Kaizen foam a lot!
@@SmackeysGarage That sounds great! If I can think of any others, I'll come back and add them. Yes, that heat tool is pretty good. Especially the finger holes you can make with it.
I'm starting a job in aviation in a few weeks and a requirement is shadowing. They provide basic foam to get started. I have a cart online right now with the same tekton base combination, ratcheting, and 30/60 wrenches. I"m wanting to stand them on end for room like you did here with your larger sizes. My initial thought is that if the lenghts are near the same (I need to look) that I'll stack say all 3 of my 3/4" next to each other.
That sounds like the same path I took when doing mine. Standing on end really helped add some extra room. Little harder to see the sizes on them but it works well.
That’s a common problem lol. I consolidated to one of every tool in the box to help with that. I’m ending up needing more storage though… My sockets will not fit all in one drawer and I still haven’t decided to organize those.
Yo Smackey, if your interested in a Bronco reach out to me. My dealership is not marking them up. I sold Litebrite (don’t know if you’ve seen their TH-cam channel) their Bronco. I’ve also ordered a couple more for some other TH-camrs. They haven’t come in yet but they’re ordered. Give me an email or something and I’ll reach out to you
Nice organizational skills Smackey, very nice how that foam holds all your tools in place. Could you please tell me where i can find some of that foam at? Thanks for making this video..
I work with Kaizen foam on a regular basis at both work and at home. Here's a couple of extra tips:
1. Some markers will not wipe away, and I can't stand seeing the marks afterwards. For that reason I use the tape from lint rollers to lay out where I'm going to make my marks. I apply the tape to the top of the foam and then I draw things out on the tape. The tape cuts easily as you cut through to the foam. The great thing about lint roller tape is that its very wide, covering areas quickly, is plenty sticky but easily pulls away from the foam without damaging it, and most lint roller tape has an edge that has no adhesive, so you can get a hold of the edge of the tape without accidentally pinching the foam, which would otherwise damage the foam as you pull away and accidentally pull at the foam.
2. When you cut the piece of foam you want to use, you can make those cuts on a table saw to get perfect cuts. Just go a little slower, because the foam has enough flex that going to fast and getting crazy will make it fight back, and while foam kicking back may not be dangerous, any unintended movement of the foam will add cuts where you don't want them. So, slow and steady, and make sure it stays up against the fence. Also, if you use a blade guard, raise it up just enough so that it doesn't touch the foam. If you let the guard touch it on the way through, it will create a line defect along the whole piece.
3. When you have items that are perfect circles, they can be cut out with hole saws. Note, though, that not all hole saws and their teeth are cooperative, so test it out on a piece of scrap first.
4. When you look at the edge of the foam, you will notice the layers; not just the black outer layers and one red layer (or whatever color), but also the layers of the core (in this case the red). The red layer has 5 separate layers. To get the most accurate and consistent surface at the bottom of your cutouts, you'll want to try ripping the scrap out in between those layers. To increase the odds of success, extend your blade to the depth you want to cut and then hold it along the edge of the foam and see where that puts the tip of the blade. If it puts the tip in the middle of the layers, either retract or extend the blade ever so slightly to get the tip right at the line between layers. This means you're more likely to get started in between layers and therefore makes it easier to stay at that layer across the full removal of the scrap piece.
5. There is a tool you can buy with a round disk on the end that heats up. You can use such a tool to smooth out any imperfect cutout bottoms, and it's also great for making perfect finger holes.
6. Fast cap has a knife with a blade that is about a third of the width of the smallest knife in this video. If you cut any tight radius corners or profiles in general, you'll want this knife. Any other knife cannot effectively deal with tight angles.
These are all great tips! I'll pin this comment so everyone can see it at the top list of the comments. I'll try out the round disk that heats up and the smaller knife. I still have a few more drawers to do with new tools. Thanks for sharing all these tips. It's great to hear from someone who works with Kaizen foam a lot!
@@SmackeysGarage That sounds great! If I can think of any others, I'll come back and add them. Yes, that heat tool is pretty good. Especially the finger holes you can make with it.
Very nice! great organization! and you can easily tell if your missing a tool! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Mitch!
I'm starting a job in aviation in a few weeks and a requirement is shadowing. They provide basic foam to get started. I have a cart online right now with the same tekton base combination, ratcheting, and 30/60 wrenches. I"m wanting to stand them on end for room like you did here with your larger sizes. My initial thought is that if the lenghts are near the same (I need to look) that I'll stack say all 3 of my 3/4" next to each other.
That sounds like the same path I took when doing mine. Standing on end really helped add some extra room. Little harder to see the sizes on them but it works well.
Wow, that looks great!
Thanks Andy!
Looks great 👍🏻 I wish I had that much patience though 😂😂😂
Tell me about it. I did the work over multiple days.
@@SmackeysGarage my hats off to you brother… that is time consuming but it looks amazing. Congratulations on your tool organizers!
Debating on doing this with my proto tool box I use at work. Only issue is ive got more hand tools than the foam allows space.
That’s a common problem lol. I consolidated to one of every tool in the box to help with that. I’m ending up needing more storage though…
My sockets will not fit all in one drawer and I still haven’t decided to organize those.
1st!!! great video thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mr Mach 1!! It was a huge job to get every drawer done.
Yo Smackey, if your interested in a Bronco reach out to me. My dealership is not marking them up. I sold Litebrite (don’t know if you’ve seen their TH-cam channel) their Bronco. I’ve also ordered a couple more for some other TH-camrs. They haven’t come in yet but they’re ordered. Give me an email or something and I’ll reach out to you
Nice organizational skills Smackey, very nice how that foam holds all your tools in place. Could you please tell me where i can find some of that foam at? Thanks for making this video..
Thanks Robbie. I've linked most of it in the description. I've boughten from FastCap themselves here. www.fastcap.com/product/kaizen-foam
Your link is for 57mm but you used 30mm. Do you always use 30mm, or was there a reason you used it this time?
That is all that was in stock. I updated it with a link for the 30mm.
Your link is for 57mm but you used 30mm. Do you always use 30mm, or was there a reason you used it this time?
They didn’t have the one I used in stock and the link wasn’t working so I had to link to the other one. Sorry for the confusion.