LeBlond Lathe Restoration - Part 19: Threading Dial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- After I got through with the LeBlond Lathe (I thought) I discovered that I forgot to restore and install the threading dial. This is a quick video showing how we went about disassembling, restoring, and reassembling this part.
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Just got done watching this series over the last couple of days. Great to see American history being restored.
Back when we built things to last.
Now it's all china...
@@petero2693 I love this saying, being british you come across stuff everytime that was made here over 100 years ago, wow they made stuff to last. what about the cheap stuff, or inventions that were quickly outdone by better inventions. all melted down as scrap for new items.
100 years from now people will be like wow china made stuff to last back then, every time I see something 100 years old, still working and made in China people will assume it was all like that hehe.
Happy Father's Day Keith. Thanks for sharing this Keith. When we're in a hurry, or just busy, things get misplaced, quick fix and a great job. You mentioned your daughter's prom, and then there was the killer oak, life happens and we'll still be here.
You should get yourself a set of "pin starting punches". They don't bend and break like regular pin punches.
Thanks for taking the time to film it even though you're so busy.
And a very nice video as always .
Hi Keith, a simple and easy way to make the dial lettering pop is apply a very thin coat of oil to the surface, then apply a generous coat of acrylic paint. Let it sit for a moment then carefully clean off the excess. Thanks for the videos.
Happy Father's Day! It never fails, we have to work on the tool before we can fix things. I did see how the thread dial may work on a lathe. I have used them but just never investigated exactly how they were hooked up (remember, I'm a bricklayer and usually don't thread brick), Greg Thanks again.
Looks like you got the loose ends ! HAPPY FATHERS DAY .. Thanks for the share Keith .. Thumbs up !!
The old sneaky killer South Gawgah rabbit attack. I'm a brush guy too. Pile it on and rub it in!
Very nice Kieth, thanks for showing. You've done a great job on that lathe, I wish it was mine.
Thats a really neato punch holder. Not too many wood tool holders around anymore.
I didn't know it wasn't there till I went to use it and it wasn't there.... oops. How many times have I said this to myself.... Welcome to my world Keith!!! Hope to see ya at the Bash!!
Inherited a set of punchs just like yours, never knew what kind they were. Will take better care of them now.
That pin came out easy enough. I had a tough time in the past removing taper pins and found that drilling and tapping the larger end, inserting a bolt or screw, pull it out with a slide hammer.
I expect you know it already but for others that don't, if the lines don't line up nicely when the half nuts are engaged you can shim the thread dial body away from the carriage to make it do so. It can be annoying if you have to guess if it is half way between a half and a full line.
Chris Stephens Great tip!
Why thank you kind sir, but I can't claim any credit for it except that I read the manual for one of my lathes, rare thing I know but there you go.:>)
They were often sold as extras, so will need shimming because of the manufacturing variables. OE fitting should be done at the factory, but if you mislay the right washer, or don't know it is special, you might wonder what is wrong.,
Keith, how about primer. This will make the paint stick to the metal better - AND - it makes the final coat much smoother.
Nice simple Idea for a thread dial. I don't have a dial on my lathe either and i'll have to look to see if it had something similar in the past. If i need to do a lot of threading i may have to make one. my Lather is nearly 50 years old and has a lot of features such as single lever control for apron and cross feed power feeds but no dial is strange. :-)
Cummon Keith..
A liner brush and some black paint would really set that dial off right!!!
Good job buddy,Love your videos man!
Beautiful machine
All I could think of was an old Bugs Bunny clip where Bugs was antagonizing a dog just out of reach of the dog on his leash.
Now that LeBlond is done.
Thanks,
John
Another excellent video.
Bill from Seattle.
You might want to add this to the playlist.
Keith,
Always support the shaft on a v-block when driving out a taper pin- remember what happened with the half nut engagement shaft earlier.
Yes I cringed when Keith abused it so. Perhaps he didn't think about it.
A mosquito performs a flight-by over the microphone at minute 6:53. Unacceptable! 😂😂😂😂😂Other than that, super video, you make it all look very easy, I would not be able to replace the chain of my bycicle..... To save my life
6:52 Mosquito flies by the mic. It really fooled me through the headphones...
Thank you Keith!
THANK YOU...for sharing.
It's one of those things you didn't notice wasn't there until you noticed it wasn't there.
Yogi Berra would be proud!
I use wires to hang it out of sight... out of touch... I always find I need the space I left painted items.. now I hang them way out of the way... plus winter really slow dry.. days
That threading dial is huge compared to the one on an 11" Logan where I used to work.
OK- I'm ready to see some threading.
I just re-read your LeBlonde series on restoring the lathe. You spent so much time and effort restoring the lathe; do you regret turning around and selling it?
For metal, I have found that spray paint leaves a tougher more uniform finish than brushing it on... especially on lengthy paint projects... that being said, I would also have used a paint brush on such a small part.... Great video, thanks!
I once had a professional painter tell me that brushing is better on cast iron because the brushing action works the paint down into the tiny pores. Also, if you have any dust or other tiny trash on the part, brushing will roll them around, coat them with paint and they will just stick to the part. With spraying you only cover the top of the dust and it will not stick to the part under it.
Makes sense... my experiences on steel is that the higher solvent content in spray-paint makes the paint pigments get into the smallest defects, hence extra insurance against rust... also, paint from a paint can changes properties as the solvent evaporates in the can and on the paint brush bristles.
happy Fathers day Keith
I am a week late seeing this, but thank you and the same to you!
Is it known who invented (or first offered on a lathe) the threading dial? When you consider it's simplicity to what it helps make possible, it's really an ingenious bit of innovation.
Surprisingly late.. about 1922. Here is a description, see page 85.
books.google.com/books?id=PNoDAAAAMBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=thumbnail&q&f=true
Nice find. Thanks for sharing it. I agree, it is surprisingly more modern than I would have thought. :) (Page 853)
Which begs the question: how was threading done before there were threading dials?
Yes but, if the thread being cut is a multiple of the thread on the lead screw the half nuts can be opened and closed again in any position on the leadscrew and still be in time(mesh). S if you have a 4 tpi on you leadscrew you can cut 4, 8, 12, 16 etc tpi and dis/re-engage leadscrew anywhere.
More accurately, you can engage the half-nut on any number or line on the thread dial. There is one engagement between the marked lines and if you engage there, the spindle will be 180 degrees out.
I thought I had a mosquito in my room buzzing around my head, turns out it was in the video. Drove me nuts hunting for it.
Hmm... you called it a "small " pivot stud ... I wonder what you would think of the M2.5 socket head cap screws at work.
How about putting a dab of that black paint in the fixed register mark, to make it easier to see?
Don't let that bunny fool ya like on Monty Python! I wonder why the thread dial doesn't just engage all the time. It doesn't seem like there would be any wear issues from it. The one on my Monarch is built into the carriage and does run all the time.
I really like your channel Brian.I just subscribed a few days ago and have been watching A LOT of your content.
That damn drill drop freeked me out!!!!
I have never seen anything like that in all my 56 years.
SO GLAD YOU WERE NOT HURT!!
Aye ! The killer rabbit.
It was not a fun event for sure! Glad you are enjoying the channel!
Lots of lathes are made where the thread dial will swing out. Others, they are always engaged. Probably to reduce wear though.
A Belleville washer or two will let you make that nut springy-tight so you can move it but it will stay in place.
I would have used India Ink on that dial to make it easier to read. Or maybe some more modern black paint. And that gear looked like the teeth were pretty well worn...Not being picky, just, well I AM picky....
I read a great article about the advantages of painting with a brush. I’ll see if I can fish it up to send on to you. BTW, what kind of paint do you use? Keith Appleton uses a brush to paint his models to good advantage.
Wat factor determines choice betweed wheeler wire versus sand blaster.
Keith, is your bullet vice mounted or are you still trying to figure out where you want it? Good video for Fathers Day, have a good one!
I keep forgetting to get some hardware to mount it with......
Yo Keith, How does one know if that was truly a grease zerk and not a pressure oil zerk fitting? Unless one has the manufacturer's lubrication schedule, that is. My Monarch uses oil from the apron oil system, for instance.
Good question, I was under the impression most zerks on machine tools are for oil, as grease will hold dirt and chips. I wonder if this originally had a flip top oil fitting on it and at some point it got replaced with a zerk.
Have you not seen Monty Python and the Holy Grail? Do not underestimate a bunny rabbit.
So what happens if your thread dial, disengages part way through a job? Is there a way to recover? Also is the indicator on the thread dial face going to get the graduations filled with paint or whatever.. Looks a bit hard to see.
*grabs*
"Oh, this is just all grease."
LOOOOL
that skeeter at 6:53 had me swatting in the air.
Those are just pesky gnats.
educational as always Kieth would love to send you my Simat 101 to rebuild but i think it would be too small for you LOL
With the amount of grease in there I expected it to be a more critical part than what it really is.
never enough lubricant
Especially on some critical parts of this lathe. See assembling the various slides and gibs in video #13
I think I would have put some red paint in the markings on the dial to make them easier to read.
Gizmo42Rodeo Paint the dial white,then a nice red,maybe signpainters tinned paint ?
Wonder why they had both a set screw and the tapered pin.
Eric
The set screw held the part in place while you drilled and reamed the hole for the taper pin.
Keith, I think the top of your pin broke off at 10:11
Certainly something landed on the bench. Perhaps it was dirt in the pin hole.
Is it odd that it would have a set-screw if the bottom gear is held with a taper-pin? How in the world would the set-screw do anything more than what the pin is doing?
I think that's to hold the gear in place while the hole is being drilled and reamed. Also, it helps prevent rocking in the axis of the pin.
Like has already been commented, you need to hold the part in place when you are drilling the taper pin hole.
Wow, I've never used a hammer that small for taking something apart. 24oz minimum and a screwdriver for prying!
In the first five minutes... Keith, your poor knuckles sure looked like they took a beating from that ball peen!
holy crap! what tools are recommended when dealing with a bear or alligator?
why didn't you lube the thrust washers????
Because he prefers not to think that clearly.
Why didn't you grease it before installing? Zerk fittings are for service only, not a replacement for greasing during assembly. The zerk fitting won't evenly coat grease everywhere on that shaft.
Really? A part that turns that slow? I don't think it's a huge deal.
Morrow S why to bring out the Trolls of course ;-)
That's not a trolling but a reasonable question, and good engineering practice to lube things as you assemble them, no matter how slow they turn.
Yup, I always lube parts as I go, that way I know it's all coated.
Clipboard warrior notification squad, assemble!
Shades of Jimmy Carter and the Killer Rabbit shtick...
Oil. Great buzzzzz... not... fumes always gets to me...
On the other hand, nobody else noticed either.
You know, I don't think I had one comment from anybody wondering why my lathe did not have a thread dial!
Is that gear worn?
It has some wear but not bad.
Before you can do anything you always have to do something else first.
You should have greased that while assembling it, then you can get your cameras, microphones, etc. all greasy too while you are making the video.
Bear or bunny it's all the same to a dog lol
Was looking for a bunny comment! Hehe but smart dogs know bears are a worry - one encounter, the smart dog learns. 😁
What's the difference between a rabbit and a bunny rabbit?
The latter is more cute.
@8:48 it is very obvious that you have painted the surface that bolts up to the carriage. The matching surface on the carriage is also painted so now there are 2 thicknesses of paint involved. In this case it's probably not going to do much harm but it's bad practice to paint mating surfaces especially both faces. There is a slight possibility that the paint may relax during a threading job, allowing the dial to move out of engagement and cause you to loose your register. Why take that chance? Oh-- maybe you simply didn't think of that. Once again you fail to show your trusting viewers how things should be done and portray yourself in a poor light. Why do you do this?