Its not only the size of the ball, but the size of the shank that bolts the ball on. The same size ball can come in different shank sizes for different load weights and shear strength.
@@Rio97621 We need to speak to God about standardizing all "our" equipment. As I age, it is getting progressively difficult to help out my fellow brothers out there by keeping there wives happy. ;)
You can easily standardize things within your own ecosystem: replace the sockets (not that expensive) on your trailers so they're all identical and [drum roll] one ball does it all. But then your pals may start calling you "One-ball Wayne" ...so that may not be a good plan.
I utilize 2ball sizes for all my trailers 5000lbs and under get 2inch and over 5000lbs get 2-5/16... I even converted all my pin hitch lawn trailers to 2inch balls
not always easy to to... some trailer couplers are welded on from the factory... while you could go to a shop to get a new one welded on it can get expensive for people that dont have the equipment or cant weld.
@@dj20051991 I used a grinder and an El cheapo flux core welder or a bolt on coupler can be refitted in place of the welded on coupler just uses grade 8 hardware and an appropriate drill and an hour of time
when I started working at my current job I was fully exposed to how wide and veried the trailer world is. not just Hitch ball size but suspension and brakes and wheen and so on and so forth there is so much to learn and know
Two problems. Most important is how many times I have banged a shin on that ball mount sticking out of the back of my truck. Been put on my knees more than once. And two. those mounts are straight with no drop. My tandem trailers need a 2", 4" or 6" drop depending on the tow vehicle.
It definitely could be standardized. Here in New Zealand we just have 1-7/8 and 2" but almost everything uses 1-7/8". The only reason we have the 2" is for trailers made overseas where that size is more common, or very heavy trailers.
Fun fact: You know those wacky screw-to-tighten hitches that U-Haul puts on their trailers and everybody hates? They do that because 1 7/8 and 2" are so close that people kept dropping trailers. So they invented a whole new hitch that will work with either of the two.
Way back in the day 1950's (approximately) U-Haul used a proprietary ball (2 1/8 if I remember correctly) for their trailers. This was back when they also rented towing adapters that clamped to the bumper of the towing vehicle.
I just took delivery on a new Jon Boat from Bass Pro Shops, Tracker Boat. All their trailers from a small trailer like mine to their large boats are a 2 inch ball. Great & fun information 🚤 Hi from Michigan. 🚂
I agree 💯. It really does get confusing...I tow a bunch of different trailers, at one point I think I had 8 different sizes with different drops or risers, depending what I was towing...I ditched that and finally bought an adjustable hitch with a 1 7/8" and 2" and I still have two 2 5/16" setups with different drops. The difference in ratings is based off shank size and the material being used...spend the money and get the highest rating set ups you can and don't forget to grease the balls!
I cannot believe in the US you still have three sizes of ‘ball hitch’, in the UK it was standardised to 50mm, more than half a century ago, every ball hitch can tow every trailer, simple really ~
I believe 50mm is 1 7/8". Which is why 1 7/8" still exists. There are also 3" ball hitches out there as well. The reason why the larger balls exist is because people hate the lunnette ring and pintle knocking around.
@@crabgundy 50mm is a lot closer to 2"; it's only 0.032" smaller and I strongly suspect that 50mm and 2" would function interchangeably. I have no idea where the 1 7/8" size came from.
@@jmtiptonengland the standard for trailers in the US is 2” the 1 7/8” balls are usually on very very light trailers hooked to cars and minivans that keeps the inexperienced driver from hooking up there dads minivan to someone’s trailer that is way to heavy for them. We also have 2 5/8 for trailers up to 30,000 lbs since the average citizen in this country can go buy f450 a large tractor are boat and pull it on interstate if they wish. It’s really not that complicated every trailer hitch has the size of the ball engraved into the metal with weight limits the problem is 99% of Americans don’t like reading … so it’s kinda good we have the possibility of a mixup maybe it will slow them down and they will make sure the vehicle they are about to use is even capable before hitting the roads
I too, swapped out my 1 and only one ball, 1 7/8" hitch, to the 2" hitch, since my other 2 trailers were 2" hitches. MAKES EVERYTHING SO MUCH EASIER ❤😂😮😅
Great video! Agreed there needs to be a trailer ball revamp. The 1 7/8" ball should have been eliminated decades ago. I can see two sizes with "all equipment" in its category rated to the max that way if it fits it's covered and help eliminate clueless dangerous mistakes.
My friend solved this exact same problem with his trailer coupler. He made a coupler that can hitch a ball from 3 inch down to the smallest ball out there. It's square and has a hand crank to adjust it to fit any size ball.
Got one of those convert a balls. Can change between all the sizes. It’s easy to change hitches on the trailer. I have 1 1 7/8 I hadn’t swapped yet. Everything else is 2, except the enclosed trailer which is 2 5/16.
easier to just swap out all 1 7/8 balls to 2 inch. i changed out all my trailer hitches to 2 inch for this very reason, now they all match up. as for the 2 5/16 only rated to 6000 lbs ?, maybe cheap china steel ?..no idea ?. but what i do know about 2 5/16 balls, is yes...they are '' normally '' rated for higher trailer loads.
All of my 2 5/16 inch hitch balls are rated for 16,000 lbs. because of the GVWR of the trailers I pull. Not all trailers are boat or utility you also have flat deck and multi axled trailers. Also a 2 5/16 ball comes in 2 different styles bumper hitch and goose neck and they do not interchange. There's a whole different world of trailers out there you just have to be mindful of it.
It is important to have the right size ball match the trailer size. I was at a fire house meeting last Monday and heard a story of someone buying a new side by side, when he attempted to drive it up on the trailer the trailer came off the ball flipped the side by side and the trailer came down on the tail gate!
I almost agree. But you forgot the best catch all that will only ever need 1 size... pintle hitch... it's 1 size, you have a donut and a locking clamp... easier to line up, easier to see when its getting worn out, removes the weak link of the ball neck.... all commercialbumper pull trailers use pintle. They also bolt on for easy replacement and adjustment.
in short : no , folks do not need three-ball trailer hitches … actually easier to just change the couplers to a more universal 2 inch ball IF you have a lotta boats … building a trailer now with a 3 inch wide coupler to handle a 2 inch hitching ball !!!
yeah I'm building a small trailer that came with a 1 7/8 and adding spacers and such to fit a 2 inch coupler on there. Hate having to switch between hitches for my two boats... Just doesn't make any sense
I agree, the 1-7/8 should be done away with. I have a HF trailer, but I put the 2" coupler on it when I assembled it. As for the weight difference for the various balls, much depends on the size of the shaft and, even worse, if it uses a bolt instead of a nut to fasten it. If it mounts with a bolt, the ball is essentially hollow - but then, so are many of those quick-change balls hollow.
Had this issue with my FIL's car haulers. His old one (now my current one) is a 2". But the new one is 2-5/16" When went to pick it up from his best friend's estate (as he bought it off his widow), whoops... 2" ball no good. Thankfully we found a class 4 hitch with the right ball laying in the garage which got the trailer home. Both trailers are rated for 7000lb and are tandem axle with one brake axle... only difference is age and that the "new" trailer has a folding ramp. Funny enough both trailers belonged to the friend when new... when he upgraded the first time my FIL bought his old one. Currently I have three trailers: the car hauler above, my 16' ski boat's trailer, and a small 4x8 utility trailer... the former two are both 2", the latter is 1 7/8. But that works out, as the 4x8 is only ever used with my 1995 Ford Ranger's bumper and my lawn tractor (which I modded to have such a ball in place of the pin hole)... the other two are exclusively used with my 1984 F150's class III tow bar (or a bigger tow rig someday, the F150 isn't beefy enough IMHO). Theoretically I could tow the 4x8 with the F150 using a different hitch- the height would need to change, not just the ball size... but that trailer doesn't really add much that the F150 can't do with the bed alone (I only bought it because I needed to haul F150 body parts across the country using the ranger).
The different weight ratings on the balls has to do with shank size of the ball also. Some 2” balls have 3/4” shank which is only 3500. Other 2” have 1 1/4” shank which gives it a higher capacity rating.
I couldn't agree more. As a matter of fact, the tiny difference between 1 7/8 and 2 is such you con get away with some cross connection. But be careful, it can get stuck.
Australia uses the 50mm diameter as the most common size. However, older trailers can only use a 47mm ball. Some trailers use a 2-5/16" ball by default and some larger trailers use a 70mm or 3-inch ball.
In Europe we have one size. 50mm just under 2 inches. This tows 3500Kg (7700lbs) which is our maximum domestic trailer weight. Very easy. We have an old lighting standard with two 7 pin plugs or the new standard of a single 13pin connection. This works well and ,akes trailers and hitches compatible.
@@carl-oscarbjorkman8923I'm not surprised if there are some ball that's used for trailers above 3500 kg. However the hitches I have seen on buses are either standard 50 mm balls. Or a heavy duty pin connection. Trailers with max weight above 750 kg (1653 lbs) need brakes. Up to 3500 kg they can use inertia brakes, while heavy duty trailers need active brakes.
@thorbjrnhellehaven5766 I have heard from a colleague that for a time owned a volvo car that had been owned by a bus company that used it to transport bus trailers that had a bigger coupling. And I'm a Swede if that counts for something.
@@carl-oscarbjorkman8923 I'm more familiar with rules specific to Norway. But I expect they are similar across Europe. 50 mm ball is rated at max 3500 kg. Larger trailers need different coupling. The most common I have seen is heavy duty pin coupling. I'm sure there are many different heavy duty couplings I've never noticed, including lager than 50 mm ball. However any trailers rated above 3500 kg, need active brake systems, and any vehicle towing them would need to connect the brakes, unless there's some way around that; like if they have a max weight without brakes. If they weigh 750 kg or less empty, I don't see why it shouldn't be possible to get them approved for max 750 kg without brakes, to allow moving them without connecting the brakes. Then it could make sense to have a heavy duty coupling on a smaller vehicle. If they weigh more than 750 kg, it would be hard to tow (legally) without brakes, but way easier to get the brake system connectors.
@@thorbjrnhellehaven5766 I started searching on Google and i could find 60mm and 70mm but I don't know what or if they are used for anything currently. But I agree that the 50mm size is what is the standard unless you need bigger for some reason. And i think that the car was equipped with brake control for the bigger trailer but I'm unsure.
I agree with putting everything over to a 2" ball for regular homeowner use. 2 5/16" would be more commercial use. I'm in the middle of slowly swapping all our trailers here to 2". Things are too complicated here.... Tahoe bowrider - 2" Cadorette ski boat -2" Rockwood tent trailer - 2" Mirror Craft 14ft tin boat - 1 7/8" ATV trailer 1 7/8" Utility trailer 1 7/8" Soon everything here will be 2" and a whole lot easier Great video.
We run B&W Trailer Hitches on our trucks, they have both 2" and 5/15" adjust to different heights and are rated at 10,000 Lbs. It's cheap and east to convert the trailer without surge brakes to a common size. Curt makes a good one too.
So true. Same with bolts, sockets, etc. Why have 3/15, 1/3, 5/16, and 3/8" bolts? There are few places where an assembly is that tight on space that they are looking at 1/16" differences. Oh... and same with plumbing. Why have 1.25 and 1.5" sink and lav drains. Just pick the larger!
While a larger ball would theoretically have stronger shear strength, as you've noticed, it doesn't make much practical difference. The big difference is the upward force (disconnect direction) they can handle, or more accurately, the socket can handle. If someone misloads a trailer, and you end up with negative weight on the back wheels, you can end up in real trouble. If you exceed the limit, the trailer pops off and hopefully allows the driver to keep control, although we've all seen videos of how well that works. (i suppose it's better than no steering) OEM specified ball sizes will use the largest ball they think will keep them out of liability the best.
Here's how I would change it. 1 7/8 ball on a 2 inch receiver for single axle trailers with no brake system. For your small cars/suvs with the 4 pin trailer connector. 2 5/16 for anything that needs trailer brakes with the 7 pin bladed connector, with the 2.5" receiver. I'm seeing all large campers are trending this way. Any full size truck (my 2008 chevy 2500 included and my previous 2019 f250) already has a 2.5" receiver. Above that you'll likely be using a pintle hitch for military, heavy equipment, or dump trailers. But that's commercial drivers license territory.
A 2inch ball is better than the 1-7/8... The best rule of thumb is 5k lbs gross trailer weight and under getting 2inch balls and couplers, and anything over 5k lbs getting 2-5/16 balls and couplers but never exceed any one hitch components limits
@@dodgeme1986truck that's why I say 1 7/8 for no trailer brakes. Apparently federal law is 3,000 lbs and up requires trailer brakes. So under that, a 1 7/8 ball would be more than adequate. Plus the size difference between the 2 is enough that you could probably eyeball the change.
@@ExperiencesAndEquipment the thing is its people wanting to streamline their trailer fleets to 1-2ball sizes and I have 3500 lb trailers that don't have to have brakes... As they are grandfathered since that regulation only went into effect in 2023... 1-7/8 balls really are not very safe above 2000lbs trailer gross weight as they wear out much faster and are generally with weaker mounting shanks also trailer rental facilities are starting to not want to rent to a 1-7/8 ball (I have 2inch ball and couplers that have over 100k miles and still don't need adjustments for wear but the few 1-7/8 ball and couplers I had ( they were converted to 2inch) constantly needed the wear slop adjusted out of them... And yes there are adjustments for coupler to ball wear... just like the couplers are supposed to be greased periodically). I prefer the dry film lube for the balls and couplers not the grease or oil based lubes
It happened to me last week. My normal "edc" ball is 2". I went to help a friend move his side by side because his son who normally helps him was out of town(with the truck he uses). It was 1 7/8.😡 I picked up one of the triple size draw bars from tractor supply at $100. There's no reason for 1 7/8 at all.
I've been on a mission for years to remove every 1-7/8" coupler I come across. I've changed them out to 2" on my trailers and on trailers for sea scouts and friends. A first thought on a break point is the 3000 lb line as in many states above that requires trailer breaks and below doesn't (with rare exceptions). Another is 5000 lb as I think this is the highest tow rating on midsized SUVs. Minivans and smaller vehicles are typically 3500 lb or less. Anything with a 5000 or less tow rating should be good with a 2" ball for everything they tow.
@@BenjaminHeyser I’ve been on a mission to remove all Trailer Ball type couplings on our work trailers to Lunette Ring / Pintle Hitch-Type couplers. I’ve seen too many trailers going down the road being dragged by the safety chains. 🤦🏻♂️ Additionally, pintle hitches offer another level of safety with the “closed loops” connection. And they are really easy to hook up if you don’t have a backup camera, just get it close and usually you can drop the ring right onto the hitch. 👍🏽
I have four trailers. A flatbed, a utility, and two boat trailers. I purposely changed the hitch receiver on the smaller boat trailer and the Utility trailer to 2" just do away with the silliness of having multiple balls. I would inevitably always have the one wrong one.
I have 4 trailers and 3 tow vehicles. It's a mess. I had to all need different drops and rise depending on what I'm using to tow. I had to spend $500 to by the 2 ball adjusting hitch and changed the ball size on one of the trailers. It's still a mess but better.
They make ball shims, so you can turn a 1 7/8" ball into a 2" and a 2" into a 2 5/16". In My truck I carry a 2" on a weight distro ball mount rated to 12K, a 2" one piece with a grease-less cap rated to 8K, and aluminum remove the ball pin in another size adjustable height(just got this one) with all 3 sizes, and the dreaded tri-ball which is my IDGAF abuse mount if I need to do some sketchy stuff. I typically tow 2" stuff which is why I went as high rating as I can on that so I don't need to worry about is my 2" rated high enough for whatever I'm towing. The other stuff is more just in case I stop to help some random person on the side of the road I can. All in all, I don't think it's as big of a deal as people make it out to be. The other issue with standardizing it, is people are dumb. So say you have a 2" 8K rated ball in say a Jeep Cherokee.. people would think they can tow 8K.. cause that's what the ball says, but the Jeep is only rated to tow 5.5k. Mopar used to have a Liability trick.. that unless it came with a factory tow kit, even a 3500DRW Diesel.. it's only rated for 2200lbs.. dunno if they still do that.
The hitches Uhaul uses on their trailers fit any size ball. I don't know if they have a patent or what, but I've never seen them available for sale. The way they work is they screw the pawl on the bottom up tight, making it universal.
I have a 1976 trailer that is 1 7/8” and the coupler is welded on. I have a newer trailer for my 12ft jon boat that is 2”. So I got one of the 3 ball hitches just because of that. If the other wasn’t welded on I would switch it out with 2”. But my other boat is only a 14’ Gamefisher so it’s like 350 lbs with gear and motor.
I agree. I think a good solution would be to keep all 3 sizes but standardize them all for certain weight 1” 7/8 up to 2000lbs 2” up to 10000lbs and 2” 5/16 up to 30000lbs. Because they make bumper pull trailers that weigh that much for some reason
The thing you are not taking into consideration is shank size. 3/4 inch 3500#. 1 inch 6000#. 1 1/4 shank 10000#. There are some exceptions. Ball mounts with 3/4 inch shank holes are made of 1 1/4 inch square stock. Ball mounts with 1 inch shank holes are made of 2 inch, 1/4 wall square tubing. Ball mounts with 1 1/4 inh shank holes are usually made of solid cast 2 or 2 1/2 inch steel. Again there are exceptions.
Except on etrailer right now you can get a 2” ball with a 1” shank rated for 6,000lbs for $15 or a 2” ball with 1” shank rated for 12,000lbs for $19. So you could also just standardize the shank diameter.
you can find some of the bigger balls rated the same as a 2" but thats just because theyre cheap junk, for the most part ive always figured this was to make it idiot proof, when chrysler built the second gen dakota they switched to 6 bolt because there were some older 5 bolts in salvage yards and what not that werent rated for the extra capacity of the new truck, same idea they designed it to be idiot proof also very important note is that the bolt under the ball is a different sheer strength aswell, i dont know if they still do or not but they used to be different sizes
Here in the UK we can only tow up to 7700lbs, and all our towballs are 2" works well tbh, however i do like your insert carriers, most of our towbars setups are fixed....
Wrong. In the UK max trailer weight is 3500kg (7700LBS) we officially use metric weights, and the ball is 50mm ( the UK haven't used 2" balls since the 1960s)
@johnspear3452 well I converted as the channel, and one assumes, the main audience are American. 2" being the approximate equivalent to our 50mm (obvs 2x25.4mm is 2")
Trailer ball sizing is about something you didn't even discuss. It's actually more about the vehicle that is doing the towing, not the towed vehicle. They're like that intentionally, to keep people from pulling large, heavily weighted trailers with a vehicle, or even a hitch, that isn't up for the task. Trailer ball sizing is standardized exactly the way it should be. What they're doing, is preventing you from putting too much of a load on a vehicle that can't handle it. If evetrything took the same size channel and the same size ball, there wouldn't be anything to prevent you from trying to tow a 10,000 pound forklift and its 8,000 pound trailer with your Chevrolet Aveo. A trailer hitch that fits passenger cars is most likely going to have a receiver channel of 1 ½", and the ball mount that fits into that receiver is only going to a ¾" diameter hole, which automatically locks you into a 1⅞ ball, which also locks you into a very, very small trailer. You're supposed to start with the tow vehicle and work back, not with the trailer and work forward.
One thing I forgot about... Those ball mounts that have all three sizes on one convenient mount, those are always going to be on a 2" mount, meaning you'll need to have a hitch with a 2" receiver channel. This again, prevents you from being able to use the 2" and 2 ⁵/16" sizes on a passenger car or bumper hitch. You can always tow a small trailer with a larger vehicle, but not the other way around.
I got a trailer with an 1 7/8 hitch. It was a double axle with drum brakes. One day I noticed metal fatigue and realized, holy crap, that ball is way to small for this trailer. No wonder I got it free.
My 24' T-top bay boat has 2" hitch, the only time I use a 2-5/16" is with an equipment trailer. I use a weigh-safe hitch that has drop adjustment and flip over 2" / 2-5/16" balls. Don't think I have ever towed a trailer with 1-7/8". I agree on them eliminating the 1-7/8".
Also the safety factor that was applied to the tow capacity should be written on the packaging that the ball comes with when new. Often it is a factor of 1.5-3. Meaning that your trailer hitch ball could handle up to 3 times its rated capacity before failure.
I have 2" balls with ratings of 5k, 6k and 8.5k. Also there was a time I had a 24' cabin cruiser 2" and a Jet ski 1 7/8". I accidentally towed the 24 footer to storage using the 1 7/8 ball. Nothing bad happened, but it was a bit shocking when I unhitched and saw the 1 7/8".
The little white dog looks something like the Malteese Poodle I had.He would retrieve a tennis ball all day long.The trailer ball wants occasional greasing.Good plan to eliminate the 1 7/8 ball.CHEERS from HERE!
Another issue is the ball mount bolt size. Often the ball mount bolt diameter is smaller than the receiver mount. They have sleeves. But it's dangerous if someone mounts it without the correct sleeve.
I'd recommend that you standardize on 2 inch ball. Any trailer that you have that is not 2 inch replace the hitch with a 2 inch. Its not a difficult job and realatively cheap.
I think my boat trailer is 1 7/8 had it for years. When I was working construction we had all three, plus a big eye one for miscellaneous implements like compressors for air hammers and cement and mortar mixers etc.
100% agree. It's ridiculous. I have a 2" ball, and I have actually replaced the tongues on trailers (with the correct and proper weight ratings) so that they all are 2", just so I don't have to deal with this nonsense. Give me 2" for the small 1" draw bar tow rated vehicles, and go to the bigger ball for the bigger size draw bar. Done. I know you and I are both oversimplifying, but it is really NOT that hard.
I am not 100% sure but I think in europe all trailer balls are the same size (50mm) although you rarely see trailers as big as in the US. The reason being that trailer hitches over there are permanently attached tp the vehicle (some fold away) so you can not just swap to a different size ball. The last car I had in the UK was set up to tow a caravan and had a bolted on ball and 2 plugs (now changed to a single plug with more connections). This would be doable over here, don't even need the government to do it, just get all the makers to agree and use nothing but the largest balls
Yeah they can probably get rid of the 1 7/8". There are a lot of them out there though. Those folks probably don't want to mess with them. You don't want to guess at what your trailer/boat weight is. It's best to take it to a scale and start off with the right knowledge from the start.
Goosenecks do this, almost all of them regardless of trailer size all use a 2-5/16th ball. SO no need to keep changing out balls for different trailers.
I just got a ball and hitch for a few thousand pounds over my tow rating. The only time a ball larger than 2" should be necessary is by trailers with a say a GVWR of 10,000 lbs+. This could help prevent people from towing a trailer that *likely* requires a HD vehicle. At that point you should be looking at a 3/4 ton anyway.
Not any more, the half tons are now rated for more then 10K pounds. The 2025 Chevy 150 is 13,300 pounds, the 2025 Ford F150 is 13,500 pounds, The Dodge 1500 is the lowest of the big three at 11,570 pounds (the 2024 version is 12,750, I'm guessing the 2025 model truck itself is slightly heavier leading to the lower rating. While under 10K pounds the 2025 Ford Ranger is rated for 7,500 pounds. Meaning that today's "small trucks" are in line with the old half tons. To further give a idea the higher capacities, when you jump up to a 3/4 ton like the F250, you're looking at 22,000 pounds off the hitch and 23,000 pounds gooseneck. The Ram 2500 is 19,990 pounds. And finally the Chevy offers 22,500 pounds.
Problem with standardizing to one size ball is is everyone going to change their couplers on older trailers? Not hardly. But I agree it is a pain to have to have 3 different sized balls.
Most systems in the US could be drastically simplified. I agree with you the towing system could be improved to remove confusion and room for danger/error. Especially the 1 7/8 ball - how many folks have had a 2" trailer coupler hop off a 1 7/8 ball?
What really sucks is when you rent a moving truck, and it has a ball welded on that's a different size than your trailer. I had to deal with that on my last move, I had to leave one of my trailers behind and go back to get it, an extra 12 hour drive time because Penske decided to change their standard ball size from 2" and weld 2 5/16 balls to their trucks.
That's because usually with rental trucks, you are not supposed to tow with them unless you're towing their trailers. So there is no reason for them to worry about it fitting other trailers because all of their trailers use the same ball. I found this out working for a place that did Uhauls.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy That's because usually with rental trucks, you are not supposed to tow with them unless you're towing their trailers. So there is no reason for them to worry about it fitting other trailers because all of their trailers use the same ball. I found this out working for a place that did Uhauls.
The rv industry pretty much went to a standard 2 5/16 I deliver 3 campers at a time on a specialized trailer it used to be all 3 trailers could have a different size now 99% is 2 5/16
Wayne, you are so right. I have two trailers at this time. The boat trailer (small 14' aluminum boat) and a 7K pound-capacity utility trailer (dual axle). I'm standardized at 2" balls. However, I have two different couplers because the trailers ride at different heights relative to my truck. One needs a drop, the other needs a level coupler.
I would recommend sticking to the 2inch under 5k lbs. and 2-5/16 over 5k lbs. Rules of thumb towing a 7k lb gross trailer on a 2inch ball gets sketchy quickly.
2 5/16" x 20,000 pounds for all 2" and 2 1/2" recievers. 2 5/16" ball for the 1" and 3" receivers and rate weight accordingly. One ball and coupling size. Easy.
I’ve only ever bought one trailer an 1 7/8 I swapped it over to a 2 inch currently I have three trailers one of which is a 10,000 pound bumper pull which pretty much requires a 2 5/16 so I converted the medium weight trailer to 2 5/16 also and if the one that uses the 2 inch if it didn’t require a fair amount of money and significant amount of cutting and welding I would convert it to 2 5/16 also
Its not only the size of the ball, but the size of the shank that bolts the ball on. The same size ball can come in different shank sizes for different load weights and shear strength.
My wife agrees.
@@Rio97621 🤣
That too could be consolidated.
@@Rio97621 We need to speak to God about standardizing all "our" equipment. As I age, it is getting progressively difficult to help out my fellow brothers out there by keeping there wives happy. ;)
He said SHANKS ,
not SK . . . . 🤔 nah ,
nevermind 🙁
You can easily standardize things within your own ecosystem: replace the sockets (not that expensive) on your trailers so they're all identical and [drum roll] one ball does it all.
But then your pals may start calling you "One-ball Wayne" ...so that may not be a good plan.
I utilize 2ball sizes for all my trailers 5000lbs and under get 2inch and over 5000lbs get 2-5/16... I even converted all my pin hitch lawn trailers to 2inch balls
not always easy to to... some trailer couplers are welded on from the factory... while you could go to a shop to get a new one welded on it can get expensive for people that dont have the equipment or cant weld.
@@dj20051991 I used a grinder and an El cheapo flux core welder or a bolt on coupler can be refitted in place of the welded on coupler just uses grade 8 hardware and an appropriate drill and an hour of time
@@dj20051991bingo
I've been complaining about this for years. All great points and couldn't agree more!
when I started working at my current job I was fully exposed to how wide and veried the trailer world is. not just Hitch ball size but suspension and brakes and wheen and so on and so forth there is so much to learn and know
Towing multiple trailers I have 3 hitches in my truck Pintle, Tri ball and combination hitch. I mainly use Pintle hitches now
I have my triple ball in my haul truck at all times. It’s great armor against the people behind you that text and drive . The radiator crusher
Two problems. Most important is how many times I have banged a shin on that ball mount sticking out of the back of my truck. Been put on my knees more than once. And two. those mounts are straight with no drop. My tandem trailers need a 2", 4" or 6" drop depending on the tow vehicle.
It definitely could be standardized. Here in New Zealand we just have 1-7/8 and 2" but almost everything uses 1-7/8". The only reason we have the 2" is for trailers made overseas where that size is more common, or very heavy trailers.
Fun fact: You know those wacky screw-to-tighten hitches that U-Haul puts on their trailers and everybody hates? They do that because 1 7/8 and 2" are so close that people kept dropping trailers. So they invented a whole new hitch that will work with either of the two.
That’s wild!
Uhaul is now moving away from that to a latch set up
Way back in the day 1950's (approximately) U-Haul used a proprietary ball (2 1/8 if I remember correctly) for their trailers.
This was back when they also rented towing adapters that clamped to the bumper of the towing vehicle.
I just took delivery on a new Jon Boat from Bass Pro Shops, Tracker Boat. All their trailers from a small trailer like mine to their large boats are a 2 inch ball. Great & fun information 🚤 Hi from Michigan. 🚂
Congrats on the new boat!! I wish more manufacturers would standardize!
Yes bigger boats (and other heavy weight trailers) require more heavy duty setups.
I agree 💯. It really does get confusing...I tow a bunch of different trailers, at one point I think I had 8 different sizes with different drops or risers, depending what I was towing...I ditched that and finally bought an adjustable hitch with a 1 7/8" and 2" and I still have two 2 5/16" setups with different drops. The difference in ratings is based off shank size and the material being used...spend the money and get the highest rating set ups you can and don't forget to grease the balls!
I cannot believe in the US you still have three sizes of ‘ball hitch’, in the UK it was standardised to 50mm, more than half a century ago, every ball hitch can tow every trailer, simple really ~
I believe 50mm is 1 7/8". Which is why 1 7/8" still exists.
There are also 3" ball hitches out there as well. The reason why the larger balls exist is because people hate the lunnette ring and pintle knocking around.
@@crabgundy 50mm is a lot closer to 2"; it's only 0.032" smaller and I strongly suspect that 50mm and 2" would function interchangeably. I have no idea where the 1 7/8" size came from.
@@jmtiptonengland the standard for trailers in the US is 2” the 1 7/8” balls are usually on very very light trailers hooked to cars and minivans that keeps the inexperienced driver from hooking up there dads minivan to someone’s trailer that is way to heavy for them. We also have 2 5/8 for trailers up to 30,000 lbs since the average citizen in this country can go buy f450 a large tractor are boat and pull it on interstate if they wish. It’s really not that complicated every trailer hitch has the size of the ball engraved into the metal with weight limits the problem is 99% of Americans don’t like reading … so it’s kinda good we have the possibility of a mixup maybe it will slow them down and they will make sure the vehicle they are about to use is even capable before hitting the roads
@@crabgundy 2" is 50.8 mm
1-7/8" is 47.63 mm
@@JoeWayne84 I think your right, it’s the ignorance and lack of education, of the average American that’s the real problem ~
Great video and breakdown, I never understood non standard sizes. Glad I'm not the only one
I too, swapped out my 1 and only one ball, 1 7/8" hitch, to the 2" hitch, since my other 2 trailers were 2" hitches. MAKES EVERYTHING SO MUCH EASIER ❤😂😮😅
Great video! Agreed there needs to be a trailer ball revamp. The 1 7/8" ball should have been eliminated decades ago. I can see two sizes with "all equipment" in its category rated to the max that way if it fits it's covered and help eliminate clueless dangerous mistakes.
My friend solved this exact same problem with his trailer coupler. He made a coupler that can hitch a ball from 3 inch down to the smallest ball out there. It's square and has a hand crank to adjust it to fit any size ball.
The best thing about standards is that there's so many to choose from.
a Gooseneck ball is also 2-5/16", usually rated at something like 24,000-30,000 pounds...
Got one of those convert a balls. Can change between all the sizes. It’s easy to change hitches on the trailer. I have 1 1 7/8 I hadn’t swapped yet. Everything else is 2, except the enclosed trailer which is 2 5/16.
Run for president Wayne! You make more sense then the two options we have now.🇺🇲
easier to just swap out all 1 7/8 balls to 2 inch. i changed out all my trailer hitches to 2 inch for this very reason, now they all match up. as for the 2 5/16 only rated to 6000 lbs ?, maybe cheap china steel ?..no idea ?. but what i do know about 2 5/16 balls, is yes...they are '' normally '' rated for higher trailer loads.
All of my 2 5/16 inch hitch balls are rated for 16,000 lbs. because of the GVWR of the trailers I pull. Not all trailers are boat or utility you also have flat deck and multi axled trailers. Also a 2 5/16 ball comes in 2 different styles bumper hitch and goose neck and they do not interchange. There's a whole different world of trailers out there you just have to be mindful of it.
You're absolutely correct. Trailer ball size needs to be standardized. Thanks for the videos. I hope you keep them coming.
It is important to have the right size ball match the trailer size. I was at a fire house meeting last Monday and heard a story of someone buying a new side by side, when he attempted to drive it up on the trailer the trailer came off the ball flipped the side by side and the trailer came down on the tail gate!
I almost agree. But you forgot the best catch all that will only ever need 1 size... pintle hitch... it's 1 size, you have a donut and a locking clamp... easier to line up, easier to see when its getting worn out, removes the weak link of the ball neck.... all commercialbumper pull trailers use pintle. They also bolt on for easy replacement and adjustment.
Yeah I wonder why they are less common
Nope, even pintle hitches come in at least 2 sizes
They rattle and make noise.
Many people don't like noise.
in short : no , folks do not need three-ball trailer hitches … actually easier to just change the couplers to a more universal 2 inch ball IF you have a lotta boats … building a trailer now with a 3 inch wide coupler to handle a 2 inch hitching ball !!!
yeah I'm building a small trailer that came with a 1 7/8 and adding spacers and such to fit a 2 inch coupler on there. Hate having to switch between hitches for my two boats... Just doesn't make any sense
I agree, the 1-7/8 should be done away with. I have a HF trailer, but I put the 2" coupler on it when I assembled it. As for the weight difference for the various balls, much depends on the size of the shaft and, even worse, if it uses a bolt instead of a nut to fasten it. If it mounts with a bolt, the ball is essentially hollow - but then, so are many of those quick-change balls hollow.
Had this issue with my FIL's car haulers. His old one (now my current one) is a 2". But the new one is 2-5/16" When went to pick it up from his best friend's estate (as he bought it off his widow), whoops... 2" ball no good. Thankfully we found a class 4 hitch with the right ball laying in the garage which got the trailer home. Both trailers are rated for 7000lb and are tandem axle with one brake axle... only difference is age and that the "new" trailer has a folding ramp. Funny enough both trailers belonged to the friend when new... when he upgraded the first time my FIL bought his old one.
Currently I have three trailers: the car hauler above, my 16' ski boat's trailer, and a small 4x8 utility trailer... the former two are both 2", the latter is 1 7/8. But that works out, as the 4x8 is only ever used with my 1995 Ford Ranger's bumper and my lawn tractor (which I modded to have such a ball in place of the pin hole)... the other two are exclusively used with my 1984 F150's class III tow bar (or a bigger tow rig someday, the F150 isn't beefy enough IMHO). Theoretically I could tow the 4x8 with the F150 using a different hitch- the height would need to change, not just the ball size... but that trailer doesn't really add much that the F150 can't do with the bed alone (I only bought it because I needed to haul F150 body parts across the country using the ranger).
The different weight ratings on the balls has to do with shank size of the ball also. Some 2” balls have 3/4” shank which is only 3500. Other 2” have 1 1/4” shank which gives it a higher capacity rating.
I couldn't agree more. As a matter of fact, the tiny difference between 1 7/8 and 2 is such you con get away with some cross connection. But be careful, it can get stuck.
Australia uses the 50mm diameter as the most common size.
However, older trailers can only use a 47mm ball. Some trailers use a 2-5/16" ball by default and some larger trailers use a 70mm or 3-inch ball.
In Europe we have one size. 50mm just under 2 inches. This tows 3500Kg (7700lbs) which is our maximum domestic trailer weight.
Very easy. We have an old lighting standard with two 7 pin plugs or the new standard of a single 13pin connection.
This works well and ,akes trailers and hitches compatible.
The only real exception would be that some bus trailers use a bigger hitch ball. But that is an exception to the rule.
@@carl-oscarbjorkman8923I'm not surprised if there are some ball that's used for trailers above 3500 kg. However the hitches I have seen on buses are either standard 50 mm balls. Or a heavy duty pin connection.
Trailers with max weight above 750 kg (1653 lbs) need brakes. Up to 3500 kg they can use inertia brakes, while heavy duty trailers need active brakes.
@thorbjrnhellehaven5766 I have heard from a colleague that for a time owned a volvo car that had been owned by a bus company that used it to transport bus trailers that had a bigger coupling. And I'm a Swede if that counts for something.
@@carl-oscarbjorkman8923
I'm more familiar with rules specific to Norway. But I expect they are similar across Europe.
50 mm ball is rated at max 3500 kg.
Larger trailers need different coupling.
The most common I have seen is heavy duty pin coupling.
I'm sure there are many different heavy duty couplings I've never noticed, including lager than 50 mm ball. However any trailers rated above 3500 kg, need active brake systems, and any vehicle towing them would need to connect the brakes, unless there's some way around that; like if they have a max weight without brakes.
If they weigh 750 kg or less empty, I don't see why it shouldn't be possible to get them approved for max 750 kg without brakes, to allow moving them without connecting the brakes. Then it could make sense to have a heavy duty coupling on a smaller vehicle. If they weigh more than 750 kg, it would be hard to tow (legally) without brakes, but way easier to get the brake system connectors.
@@thorbjrnhellehaven5766 I started searching on Google and i could find 60mm and 70mm but I don't know what or if they are used for anything currently. But I agree that the 50mm size is what is the standard unless you need bigger for some reason. And i think that the car was equipped with brake control for the bigger trailer but I'm unsure.
I agree with putting everything over to a 2" ball for regular homeowner use. 2 5/16" would be more commercial use.
I'm in the middle of slowly swapping all our trailers here to 2". Things are too complicated here....
Tahoe bowrider - 2"
Cadorette ski boat -2"
Rockwood tent trailer - 2"
Mirror Craft 14ft tin boat - 1 7/8"
ATV trailer 1 7/8"
Utility trailer 1 7/8"
Soon everything here will be 2" and a whole lot easier
Great video.
We run B&W Trailer Hitches on our trucks, they have both 2" and 5/15" adjust to different heights and are rated at 10,000 Lbs. It's cheap and east to convert the trailer without surge brakes to a common size. Curt makes a good one too.
Come to europe, one size fits all.
Everything up to the 3500kg trailers use the same ball, trucks use another system.
I had a 1967 Mastercraft, and a1959 Tee Nee both with an 1 7/8”ball. Used to be standard.
So true. Same with bolts, sockets, etc. Why have 3/15, 1/3, 5/16, and 3/8" bolts? There are few places where an assembly is that tight on space that they are looking at 1/16" differences. Oh... and same with plumbing. Why have 1.25 and 1.5" sink and lav drains. Just pick the larger!
While a larger ball would theoretically have stronger shear strength, as you've noticed, it doesn't make much practical difference. The big difference is the upward force (disconnect direction) they can handle, or more accurately, the socket can handle. If someone misloads a trailer, and you end up with negative weight on the back wheels, you can end up in real trouble. If you exceed the limit, the trailer pops off and hopefully allows the driver to keep control, although we've all seen videos of how well that works. (i suppose it's better than no steering) OEM specified ball sizes will use the largest ball they think will keep them out of liability the best.
Here's how I would change it. 1 7/8 ball on a 2 inch receiver for single axle trailers with no brake system. For your small cars/suvs with the 4 pin trailer connector.
2 5/16 for anything that needs trailer brakes with the 7 pin bladed connector, with the 2.5" receiver. I'm seeing all large campers are trending this way. Any full size truck (my 2008 chevy 2500 included and my previous 2019 f250) already has a 2.5" receiver.
Above that you'll likely be using a pintle hitch for military, heavy equipment, or dump trailers. But that's commercial drivers license territory.
A 2inch ball is better than the 1-7/8... The best rule of thumb is 5k lbs gross trailer weight and under getting 2inch balls and couplers, and anything over 5k lbs getting 2-5/16 balls and couplers but never exceed any one hitch components limits
@@dodgeme1986truck that's why I say 1 7/8 for no trailer brakes. Apparently federal law is 3,000 lbs and up requires trailer brakes. So under that, a 1 7/8 ball would be more than adequate. Plus the size difference between the 2 is enough that you could probably eyeball the change.
@@ExperiencesAndEquipment the thing is its people wanting to streamline their trailer fleets to 1-2ball sizes and I have 3500 lb trailers that don't have to have brakes... As they are grandfathered since that regulation only went into effect in 2023... 1-7/8 balls really are not very safe above 2000lbs trailer gross weight as they wear out much faster and are generally with weaker mounting shanks also trailer rental facilities are starting to not want to rent to a 1-7/8 ball (I have 2inch ball and couplers that have over 100k miles and still don't need adjustments for wear but the few 1-7/8 ball and couplers I had ( they were converted to 2inch) constantly needed the wear slop adjusted out of them... And yes there are adjustments for coupler to ball wear... just like the couplers are supposed to be greased periodically). I prefer the dry film lube for the balls and couplers not the grease or oil based lubes
It happened to me last week. My normal "edc" ball is 2". I went to help a friend move his side by side because his son who normally helps him was out of town(with the truck he uses). It was 1 7/8.😡 I picked up one of the triple size draw bars from tractor supply at $100. There's no reason for
1 7/8 at all.
I bought a boat and trailer. The trailer has a 1 7/8 coupler. You also have multiple shank sizes too.
In our fleet, we put the same size hitch on everything.
I've been on a mission for years to remove every 1-7/8" coupler I come across. I've changed them out to 2" on my trailers and on trailers for sea scouts and friends.
A first thought on a break point is the 3000 lb line as in many states above that requires trailer breaks and below doesn't (with rare exceptions). Another is 5000 lb as I think this is the highest tow rating on midsized SUVs. Minivans and smaller vehicles are typically 3500 lb or less. Anything with a 5000 or less tow rating should be good with a 2" ball for everything they tow.
Good ideas!
@@BenjaminHeyser I’ve been on a mission to remove all Trailer Ball type couplings on our work trailers to Lunette Ring / Pintle Hitch-Type couplers. I’ve seen too many trailers going down the road being dragged by the safety chains. 🤦🏻♂️ Additionally, pintle hitches offer another level of safety with the “closed loops” connection. And they are really easy to hook up if you don’t have a backup camera, just get it close and usually you can drop the ring right onto the hitch. 👍🏽
I have four trailers. A flatbed, a utility, and two boat trailers. I purposely changed the hitch receiver on the smaller boat trailer and the Utility trailer to 2" just do away with the silliness of having multiple balls. I would inevitably always have the one wrong one.
I have 4 trailers and 3 tow vehicles. It's a mess. I had to all need different drops and rise depending on what I'm using to tow. I had to spend $500 to by the 2 ball adjusting hitch and changed the ball size on one of the trailers. It's still a mess but better.
They make ball shims, so you can turn a 1 7/8" ball into a 2" and a 2" into a 2 5/16". In My truck I carry a 2" on a weight distro ball mount rated to 12K, a 2" one piece with a grease-less cap rated to 8K, and aluminum remove the ball pin in another size adjustable height(just got this one) with all 3 sizes, and the dreaded tri-ball which is my IDGAF abuse mount if I need to do some sketchy stuff.
I typically tow 2" stuff which is why I went as high rating as I can on that so I don't need to worry about is my 2" rated high enough for whatever I'm towing. The other stuff is more just in case I stop to help some random person on the side of the road I can.
All in all, I don't think it's as big of a deal as people make it out to be. The other issue with standardizing it, is people are dumb. So say you have a 2" 8K rated ball in say a Jeep Cherokee.. people would think they can tow 8K.. cause that's what the ball says, but the Jeep is only rated to tow 5.5k. Mopar used to have a Liability trick.. that unless it came with a factory tow kit, even a 3500DRW Diesel.. it's only rated for 2200lbs.. dunno if they still do that.
The hitches Uhaul uses on their trailers fit any size ball. I don't know if they have a patent or what, but I've never seen them available for sale.
The way they work is they screw the pawl on the bottom up tight, making it universal.
"The closest thing to Perfection is Standardization." - Technology Connections
I have a 1976 trailer that is 1 7/8” and the coupler is welded on. I have a newer trailer for my 12ft jon boat that is 2”. So I got one of the 3 ball hitches just because of that. If the other wasn’t welded on I would switch it out with 2”. But my other boat is only a 14’ Gamefisher so it’s like 350 lbs with gear and motor.
@@rlr4294 sweet. I’ll look into it. Thanks
I agree. I think a good solution would be to keep all 3 sizes but standardize them all for certain weight 1” 7/8 up to 2000lbs 2” up to 10000lbs and 2” 5/16 up to 30000lbs. Because they make bumper pull trailers that weigh that much for some reason
Not to mention most logs butters that you buy are 1 7/8th ball size as well as towable cement mixers
Bought and built my trailer today. Was wondering this
I've always thought we could have 1 size. I have three on recievers ready to go, because thats the way it is.
The thing you are not taking into consideration is shank size. 3/4 inch 3500#. 1 inch 6000#. 1 1/4 shank 10000#. There are some exceptions. Ball mounts with 3/4 inch shank holes are made of 1 1/4 inch square stock. Ball mounts with 1 inch shank holes are made of 2 inch, 1/4 wall square tubing. Ball mounts with 1 1/4 inh shank holes are usually made of solid cast 2 or 2 1/2 inch steel. Again there are exceptions.
Except on etrailer right now you can get a 2” ball with a 1” shank rated for 6,000lbs for $15 or a 2” ball with 1” shank rated for 12,000lbs for $19. So you could also just standardize the shank diameter.
you can find some of the bigger balls rated the same as a 2" but thats just because theyre cheap junk, for the most part ive always figured this was to make it idiot proof, when chrysler built the second gen dakota they switched to 6 bolt because there were some older 5 bolts in salvage yards and what not that werent rated for the extra capacity of the new truck, same idea they designed it to be idiot proof
also very important note is that the bolt under the ball is a different sheer strength aswell, i dont know if they still do or not but they used to be different sizes
Here in the UK we can only tow up to 7700lbs, and all our towballs are 2" works well tbh, however i do like your insert carriers, most of our towbars setups are fixed....
One of those odd US things!
Wrong. In the UK max trailer weight is 3500kg (7700LBS) we officially use metric weights, and the ball is 50mm ( the UK haven't used 2" balls since the 1960s)
@johnspear3452 well I converted as the channel, and one assumes, the main audience are American. 2" being the approximate equivalent to our 50mm (obvs 2x25.4mm is 2")
@@johnspear345250mm is appropriately 2". 2"=50.8mm There's less than a mm difference which means that they are usually interchangeable.
There are more that three sizes. 3" exists. I have seen them in box stores. Some farm implements use specialized ball hitches as well.
Trailer ball sizing is about something you didn't even discuss. It's actually more about the vehicle that is doing the towing, not the towed vehicle. They're like that intentionally, to keep people from pulling large, heavily weighted trailers with a vehicle, or even a hitch, that isn't up for the task. Trailer ball sizing is standardized exactly the way it should be. What they're doing, is preventing you from putting too much of a load on a vehicle that can't handle it. If evetrything took the same size channel and the same size ball, there wouldn't be anything to prevent you from trying to tow a 10,000 pound forklift and its 8,000 pound trailer with your Chevrolet Aveo. A trailer hitch that fits passenger cars is most likely going to have a receiver channel of 1 ½", and the ball mount that fits into that receiver is only going to a ¾" diameter hole, which automatically locks you into a 1⅞ ball, which also locks you into a very, very small trailer. You're supposed to start with the tow vehicle and work back, not with the trailer and work forward.
One thing I forgot about... Those ball mounts that have all three sizes on one convenient mount, those are always going to be on a 2" mount, meaning you'll need to have a hitch with a 2" receiver channel. This again, prevents you from being able to use the 2" and 2 ⁵/16" sizes on a passenger car or bumper hitch. You can always tow a small trailer with a larger vehicle, but not the other way around.
I got a trailer with an 1 7/8 hitch. It was a double axle with drum brakes. One day I noticed metal fatigue and realized, holy crap, that ball is way to small for this trailer.
No wonder I got it free.
lucky you caught it
That's scary!
I find the smaller ball size makes my trailer look larger. That’s kinda nice.
Very good point lol
I agree with you!
I also noticed the trailer tongue is a different size, based on the ball size. A two inch coupler doesn’t fit on the tongue needing a 1 7/8 ball.
I have 3 trailers. I made sure I standardized it to 2 inch for all of them.
My 24' T-top bay boat has 2" hitch, the only time I use a 2-5/16" is with an equipment trailer. I use a weigh-safe hitch that has drop adjustment and flip over 2" / 2-5/16" balls. Don't think I have ever towed a trailer with 1-7/8". I agree on them eliminating the 1-7/8".
Also the safety factor that was applied to the tow capacity should be written on the packaging that the ball comes with when new. Often it is a factor of 1.5-3. Meaning that your trailer hitch ball could handle up to 3 times its rated capacity before failure.
here in Australia we use 1 Ball for every thing a 2" ball eg to tow a large caravan or a small 6 x4 trailer
I have 2" balls with ratings of 5k, 6k and 8.5k. Also there was a time I had a 24' cabin cruiser 2" and a Jet ski 1 7/8". I accidentally towed the 24 footer to storage using the 1 7/8 ball. Nothing bad happened, but it was a bit shocking when I unhitched and saw the 1 7/8".
The little white dog looks something like the Malteese Poodle I had.He would retrieve a tennis ball all day long.The trailer ball wants occasional greasing.Good plan to eliminate the 1 7/8 ball.CHEERS from HERE!
I think our dog is a Bischon Poodle - but she does look very similar to the Maltese Poodles!
I agree...also, standardizing the receiver size to 2" would simplify things as well...
Another issue is the ball mount bolt size. Often the ball mount bolt diameter is smaller than the receiver mount. They have sleeves. But it's dangerous if someone mounts it without the correct sleeve.
I agree ,There should be a 2 inch and 3 inch. When I buy a trailer if it doesn't have a 2 inch. I by a new receiving coupler, so there is no confused.
I'd recommend that you standardize on 2 inch ball. Any trailer that you have that is not 2 inch replace the hitch with a 2 inch.
Its not a difficult job and realatively cheap.
I think my boat trailer is 1 7/8 had it for years. When I was working construction we had all three, plus a big eye one for miscellaneous implements like compressors for air hammers and cement and mortar mixers etc.
Why I purchased the convert-a-ball just have one size and it tows what i need to from 1 7/8” or 2”
It should just all be standardized to the strongest and highest-rated ball, and that one spec can be used for everything.
See those bolts on the trailer tongue? Change all the small ball hitch to 2" or 2 5/8", Standardize it yourself for your equipment.
first video about balls i've ever liked
We could easily dump the 1 7/8” ball. I have to have Covert-a-Balls on 4 cars just to accommodate one odd-ball trailer.
Right on Wayne. And that pin on the receiver hitch seems to be one size. What's up with that???
@@rlr4294 Exactly .
100% agree. It's ridiculous.
I have a 2" ball, and I have actually replaced the tongues on trailers (with the correct and proper weight ratings) so that they all are 2", just so I don't have to deal with this nonsense. Give me 2" for the small 1" draw bar tow rated vehicles, and go to the bigger ball for the bigger size draw bar. Done. I know you and I are both oversimplifying, but it is really NOT that hard.
I am not 100% sure but I think in europe all trailer balls are the same size (50mm) although you rarely see trailers as big as in the US. The reason being that trailer hitches over there are permanently attached tp the vehicle (some fold away) so you can not just swap to a different size ball. The last car I had in the UK was set up to tow a caravan and had a bolted on ball and 2 plugs (now changed to a single plug with more connections). This would be doable over here, don't even need the government to do it, just get all the makers to agree and use nothing but the largest balls
Yeah they can probably get rid of the 1 7/8". There are a lot of them out there though. Those folks probably don't want to mess with them. You don't want to guess at what your trailer/boat weight is. It's best to take it to a scale and start off with the right knowledge from the start.
I'm in full agreement with you
I haven’t used a 1 7/8 since the eighties on a caddo bass boat lol
Goosenecks do this, almost all of them regardless of trailer size all use a 2-5/16th ball. SO no need to keep changing out balls for different trailers.
you forgot to mention 3 5/16 which is used on very big boats and mobile homes and 1 1/8 used on reese anti-sway bars
I just got a ball and hitch for a few thousand pounds over my tow rating. The only time a ball larger than 2" should be necessary is by trailers with a say a GVWR of 10,000 lbs+. This could help prevent people from towing a trailer that *likely* requires a HD vehicle. At that point you should be looking at a 3/4 ton anyway.
Not any more, the half tons are now rated for more then 10K pounds. The 2025 Chevy 150 is 13,300 pounds, the 2025 Ford F150 is 13,500 pounds, The Dodge 1500 is the lowest of the big three at 11,570 pounds (the 2024 version is 12,750, I'm guessing the 2025 model truck itself is slightly heavier leading to the lower rating. While under 10K pounds the 2025 Ford Ranger is rated for 7,500 pounds. Meaning that today's "small trucks" are in line with the old half tons.
To further give a idea the higher capacities, when you jump up to a 3/4 ton like the F250, you're looking at 22,000 pounds off the hitch and 23,000 pounds gooseneck. The Ram 2500 is 19,990 pounds. And finally the Chevy offers 22,500 pounds.
Here in EU we have only one ball size for up to 3.5 tons. And there is the semi / heavy truck thing up to 30tons
Quick reminder for all the inch people:
3.5 metric tons is equivalent to about 7716 lbs.
Same here in australia
Problem with standardizing to one size ball is is everyone going to change their couplers on older trailers? Not hardly. But I agree it is a pain to have to have 3 different sized balls.
I have to laugh when I buy a truck that has a 8000 lb towing capability, but they give you a 5,000 lb receiver and hitch ball.
Good video ❤
Most systems in the US could be drastically simplified. I agree with you the towing system could be improved to remove confusion and room for danger/error. Especially the 1 7/8 ball - how many folks have had a 2" trailer coupler hop off a 1 7/8 ball?
What really sucks is when you rent a moving truck, and it has a ball welded on that's a different size than your trailer. I had to deal with that on my last move, I had to leave one of my trailers behind and go back to get it, an extra 12 hour drive time because Penske decided to change their standard ball size from 2" and weld 2 5/16 balls to their trucks.
Yeah - that stinks! I wonder what their logic is in that decision.
That's because usually with rental trucks, you are not supposed to tow with them unless you're towing their trailers. So there is no reason for them to worry about it fitting other trailers because all of their trailers use the same ball. I found this out working for a place that did Uhauls.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy That's because usually with rental trucks, you are not supposed to tow with them unless you're towing their trailers. So there is no reason for them to worry about it fitting other trailers because all of their trailers use the same ball. I found this out working for a place that did Uhauls.
So your idea is to add yet another size into the equation, 3 inch ??
The rv industry pretty much went to a standard 2 5/16 I deliver 3 campers at a time on a specialized trailer it used to be all 3 trailers could have a different size now 99% is 2 5/16
I would be happy if we could covert to the metric system, then worry about the size of our balz.
Wayne, you are so right. I have two trailers at this time. The boat trailer (small 14' aluminum boat) and a 7K pound-capacity utility trailer (dual axle). I'm standardized at 2" balls. However, I have two different couplers because the trailers ride at different heights relative to my truck. One needs a drop, the other needs a level coupler.
@rayclark8773 there's affordable adjustable hitches on the market
I would recommend sticking to the 2inch under 5k lbs. and 2-5/16 over 5k lbs. Rules of thumb towing a 7k lb gross trailer on a 2inch ball gets sketchy quickly.
I've got three trailers and all three use 1 7/8 ball so for us it works fine to use that
That’s pretty neat - it’s always nice when we have them all the same.
Actually changed the tounge coupling on my newest trailer because it was a 2" and I wanted it to be 1 7/8
2 5/16" x 20,000 pounds for all 2" and 2 1/2" recievers. 2 5/16" ball for the 1" and 3" receivers and rate weight accordingly. One ball and coupling size. Easy.
We changed all our couplers over to 2 in to make life easier
Nice!
The last 2 small trailers I bought had 1 7/8 first thing I did was cut them off and put 2" on them..... Don't Forget to GREASE your BALLS
I’ve only ever bought one trailer an 1 7/8 I swapped it over to a 2 inch currently I have three trailers one of which is a 10,000 pound bumper pull which pretty much requires a 2 5/16 so I converted the medium weight trailer to 2 5/16 also and if the one that uses the 2 inch if it didn’t require a fair amount of money and significant amount of cutting and welding I would convert it to 2 5/16 also