I've done this job multiple times. I'm of the school that believes you can always learn new stuff. I really like the way this video was done as the narrator viewing the video with the audience. It's easier to see what's going on with good viewing angles and stopping the action to point out the more important aspects of the job. Well done, thanks.
Who knew Norm MacDonald was mechanically inclined. BTW, I really like the way you filmed this and then reviewed the video. Very cool idea and easy to follow.
I do the majority of my own repairs on my cars, trucks, mowers, and other equipment. Oddly enough, I have never repacked bearings on any of my trailers. I really appreciate the straight forward manner you went through this process. It was easy to follow and understand. I plan on pulling the bearings on my trailers within the next couple of months to repack them and I believe I will be able to do this after watching your video. I really appreciate you taking the time to post it!
I wish every “how to” video on the internet would be this clear and informative. I’m about to help my grandpa repack his trailer bearings and thought I should do some research before hand. Thanks for sharing this as well as providing helpful tips along the way Wayne!
Thanks for this video, I just did the bearings on my aluminum trailer. Perfect explanation and good pacing. I was able to follow along with the video as I did mine
This video is excellent. I have ZERO mechanical skill and was able repack and grease my boat trailer hubs. Thank you so much. Clear video, easy to follow steps. Very well done sir!!
For cleaning the wheel bearings, I use a method that seems to work really well. I just use some old gas (new gas is fine to), fill on container with it, and put the bearings, washers, nuts and any other metal parts with grease that I want to clean in the gas. The shuffle/stir the parts around until the are clean. The gas will wash away all of the old grease like it's nothin'. This will guarantee that all of the fine metal dust/shavings gets washed out as well. One other nice thing is that the gas can be used for this purpose over and over again. I've done this with trailer bearings, car and truck bearings, garden tractor bearings and even motorcycle wheel/steering head bearings and fork tube parts. Works great!
This is the method I use at the start of each season. I take a utility knife and cut a "dish" out of a empty plastic container like for milk or juice. Let is "degrease" over night. When finished with the job, I burn both the gas and the greasey rags in my fire pit.
The advantage too of clearning the bearings using gas, is, it is easier to inspect them for wear/hot spots on the rollers so you know they can be reused.
I’d recommend using some sort of food grade grease like Amsoil GXCCR-EA to lubricate any bearing that is going to be submerged in water. It is some of the most water resistant grease on the market. It will not wash away and it keeps its lubricating values the longest. We use it to lube the bearings in our jet skis which stay submerged for months at a time during the summer.
Thanx Wayne, you have helped me with so many of your to do videos. your easy to understand KISS (Keep it simple stupid) explainations and thouroughness in explaining step by step. when ever I takle a new boating project I check to see if you've done a video on it. I'm working on a 1960 glasspar seafair sedan project boat and can use all the help I can get. Thank You for the time you invest in these videos. keep em coming, Todd (Rik)
Actually, instead of Actually tapping it with an Actual hammer, Actually try squirting some break free on it first. Actually. Actually, besides using the crutch word "Actually" in just about every sentence, you make very instructive videos which I Actually enjoy. Actually, I even subscribed to your channel.
Great step by step guide and explanation! And yes the overwhelming majority of people that you see pulled over on the highway with trailer bearing /axle issues are because they have neglected this type of maintenance for years.
Tighten the castle nut just enough until there's no play (as seen at 3:40). Too tight and too loose can cause the bearings and races to wear faster. It's a good idea to check for play and tighten the nut accordingly every year or more often if the trailer is used a lot.
Great video, a dead blow hammer works for installing the seal and hub cap. 50 + years ago we didn't have the gloves and found the grease didn't seem to hurt our hands when loading the bearings. Lol
I never used to use gloves either - but they're really useful for having "date night ready" hands later in the day and when you're also trying to periodically turn on and off two cameras!
Not necessary to slather that much grease on the axle since the contact points are only: 1) the rubber lip on the grease seal (always get double lipped ones btw) 2) & 3) where the bearings contact the axle; the actual rolling is the bearing on the races. Never liked zerk fittings on axles or "bearing buddies" since you pump in a lot of grease but never certain it is in the right places. Also never liked the "bearing packer"; tried one from Harbor Fright and returned it. Using hands is the best packing method. I also take the grease gun and before I put the grease seal on, and pump grease around and into the inner bearing while it sits in the race (after smearing a some grease around the races), then pump some on the inside of the seal so when I tap the seal on, it mushes grease further into to the rollers. For the outer bearing I do the same with the grease gun on the bearing, then put a bead of grease on the inside of the washer so when I put it in the hub, it mushes further grease into the outer bearing.
I did not have a flat washer or washers at either end of my bearings either, and I had the exact same little 4 bolt wheels on a similar boat trailer as you did. Moreover when I bought the bearing, and race replacement kits for both wheels, they did not come with washers either. Yet they came with new end seal rings. I just thought that's the original design and it seems to work fine. I am now going to dismantle the other wheel hub and see what it had.
Great information ! when i come back from a trip ,I touch my rim and they are quite warm ,is that normal or shoud they be cold to the touch? I will put my hand on the shaft where the dust caps go on to check for this after every trip.
Excellent tutorial on an important topic that gets overlooked too often. This is how you avoid getting stranded on the side of the highway with your boat.
over-filled 'Bearing-buddies' are often the cause of the axle seals being blown off the inside bearing. 'Buddies' should be only filled until the spring is slightly compressed and no more
Hi Wayne. I constantly had bearing issues using dust caps. Water would get into the bearings and ruin them. I was having to replace bearings every 12 to 24 months. I switched to bearing buddys 10 years ago and have not had to replace bearings since. It is a bad idea to throw your old bearing buddy away.
Great video - been wary of trailer bearings since my boat trailer wheel crumbled on the way to the boat marina about 15 years ago! Can launch my boat without immersing the hub but not when retrieving it!!
should you use some type of adhesive on inner seal? ive been told that i should use RTV on seal and blue Loctite on dust cover? I forgot to use it on dust cover last time and first trip it was gone. Great video very informative.
Best way to put caps on is getting a piece of PVC or steel pipe that fits over the cap and rests on the lip. Now just tap the cap on with no damage. There are also cheap tools to take those caps off without damage.
For a 1.98 inch cap use a short piece of 2 inch PVC pipe, the piece i use is maybe 3 inches. Had the lumber yard cut me a piece as that was the one size I did not have lying around. Worked great.
Really solid video, thanks! Wish I would have watched it before I did my first run at this, but you helped me feel better about the job I did. Question, did your spindle have a zerk for a grease gun? Mine does, however I ripped mine off on one of the spindles by accident. I got the grease gun stuck on it. The zerk was a "driver" style, not threaded, and with the force I used trying to pull the grease hose loose, I pulled the sucker right out. Hoping it will be ok withlut the zerk, as it is still capped and had plenty of new grease inside.
The Chinese cups , cones , and bearings are of very inferior quality ! Clean as much grease off the assembly as possible and spray clean with ether . Apply Permatex # 2 non-hardening sealant on outer diameter of the wheel hub seal . . 001 to .005 bearing end play .
I've watched several videos over the past few days as I prepare to try this myself. This one was by far the most detailed and informative. Thnx! I noticed a grease fitting on the inner side of my axle, behind the plate with the lug nuts. I've seen this fitting in other videos also, although not yours. I'm guessing that if you just want to replace or add grease without further disassembly you could pull the dust/grease cover off and then pump in new/additional grease until it squirts out around the castle nut. Correct?
Excellent video, talking it through on the screen is much better than trying to talk to the camera as you do the job. I would always recommend bearing buddies for boat trailers because the hubs are immersed when launching and retrieving the boat. They work by slightly pressurising the hub. The theory is that water can't get in if the pressure inside the hub is higher than the external water pressure. It's quite normal for a bit of grease to push out through the seal when using bearing buddies, especially with single lip seals. Here in New Zealand at least, the vast majority of trailer hubs these days have double lip seals that remain static on the axle, and run on a replaceable stainless sleeve pressed into the hub.
Just went through this but also replaced my bearings and races. Mine didn’t have a washer either but I confirmed with Dexter and it didn’t come with one from factory for that model idler hub. I had over $55 in bearings. I could have replaced both hubs for $66 so considering my time I should have gone that route.
Thank Wayne for demonstrating this procedure. I had a question as you were reassembling the races and you answered it - tapered side in. This my first time doing this and I feel totally confident thanks to this video.
Thats a pretty decent job, an how I did it before my college professers told me otherwise. First, the rear seal, yes there is a tool for removing it, an you were holding it. The way it is done, you take the castle nut off, remove the outter bearings an then put the castle nut back on. Now you grab the wheel, push down on it an jerk the wheel straight off. The castle nut works as a ouller with the inner bearing as a spacer poping the inner seal out with no damage. Assuming it was good to begin with, you do not have to buy any new parts. Just repack an reinstall. A customer that didn't have to buy any new parts is a return customer. Your way works when the seal is already bad. Next, repacking the bearings themself. Not only do I like your way, my college teachers and text books do to. The palm method, but you can use a bearing packer. Pusing the old grease out with the new grease also pushes the metalic grit out of the bearing. All that metalic grit wants to stick to the inside of the bearing if you use a cleaner to break down the grease. Now the hard part. The part to correct you on. An I did this for years. And there are companies making money off this who will disagree. But you can have to much grease in there. Atleast the books says so. There does need to be the grease in the brearing, but thats really it. A thin film of grease on any metal that could rust an on the contact point of the seal is all the extra that needs to be in there. A little more is not going to matter, but a lot more is bad. Heres the thing my college professors pounded in to my head. That extra grease can not migrate into the bearing. Good grease stays where you put it. The only way it will ever get into the bearing is if it melts, and then you dont want it in there. What that extra greese does do is hold heat. The bearing will actually run hotter, shortening the life of the grease in the bearing and the bearing its self. Thats what the book says anyway. And thats what I follow on other people cars trucks an trailers an my cars trucks and trailers that see highway miles. But... I dont always do what I am told. I question everything. Like you, my boat trailer only has to travel a few miles usually to the river. And like yours it does not have brakes dumping heat in to the bearings. So on it, heat is not the problem. Water is. Even a trailer that has only seen a few miles, the bearings are pretty warm. When you back down into the water, you quench them. Rapid cooling contracts the air in the hub. Now not only do you have the weight of the water pushing in on the real seal, you now have a vaccume trying to pull that water in also. Unless that seal is perfict, its going to suck in water an any trash thats in that water. Now every mile that water is washing out the grease inside those bearings. So heres the way I see it. On my boat trailer, an only it, I pack evey inch of space inside the hub with grease. Greese expands an contracts with heat much less than air. So if I get in a hurry an back down the ramp before my hubs have cooled, that vacuum is atleast less. And the way I see it, even if water does get in, with it packed full of greese, the water has no way of getting to the bearings. I may be wrong, an maybe I sould do it by the book, but I dont. On that trailer anyway. If I decide to take a road trip with it to florida, I may repack them by the book. Then again, I am lazy so probably not.
You must be lazy to not replace the grease seal every year; they're cheap from Etrailer and since it is smart to do this every year and take everything apart, why not replace the grease seal while doing all this? Does not make sense to cheap out and not to.
I would not listen to this guy: I would not buy a bearing packer, it would not use the castle nut to get the hub assembly apart, I would not fill every cavity with grease (he actually contradicts himself in principle if you read what he wrote). The only thing he is right about how water eventually intrudes inside the hub, which is why you take it appart at the beggining of season, replace the seals and do all the cleaning and regreasing. I check my hubs temps with my hands just before launching and right after getting home: they are never hot to the touch; later in the season, just before the end, they may be slightly warm as a result of said water working it's way in, but never enough to do the maintenance more than once a year.
@@PapaMav I dont see a contradiction. I said adding extra grease is considered the wrong way to do it. I only do it on my boat trailer because I can get away with it being very close to the ramp. An so far it seems to work. I do a lot of things to experiment on my stuff. Some work some do not. An in this case I control the enviroment. I dont think I am the only Tech that treats the things he owns differently than customers stuff. As the saying goes, "The Cobbler's children have no shoes." The tire guy telling you he cant fix your tire because the nail is to close to the sidewall, he probably would fix it if it was his tire. Not a contradiction, just the way the world works. Insurance, Lawsuits, not wanting to come home an fix your own stuff or just wanting to try something. The correct way I was taught in a College Automotive Technical program was no extra grease other than a light coating. The reason given is that the grease holds in extra heat an can never make its way in to the bearing. Its also A waste of grease an a mess you have to deal with next time, so dont add extra grease is the rule. I have followed this rule ever sense for everything but experimenting with my personal boat trailer, an I have yet to see any reason to think the rule may be wrong. How much heat matters in a trailler axel is relitave. Its a nonissue with my 700 pound boat with no brakes going a few miles. More of an issue with my Cousin pulling his party barge through 3 states. An even more of an issue for my neaghbor pulling his cabin cruser down a winding mountain road to the river. The brakes on those trailers are glowing red when they pull into the ramp right at the foot of the mountain. Its all relative. I do not think he needs a bearing packer either. He has the hand method down. They work fine though. Using the castle nut to remove the rear seal was also straight from college class. It works. I dont think my college invented the idea, Its been done that way for a long time before that class an I still do it 25 years later. If you want to replace it every time, you can. It does not cost that much. But that only works when its yours an your money. Its a bit of an oversimplified way of looking at things though. Its always better to know how to get a part out cleanly an have the option of replacing, vs not knowing an having no choice. When you are working for someone else, on someone elses stuff an using someone elses money, things are more complicated. You need to be able to get the seal out intact. At the least so you can show them an actual reason it needs to be replaced. If all you have to show them is a seal you distroyed takeing out, they will asssume your inability to remove it is the real reason they need a new one. Don't expect that coustomer back. You are also commonly taking things apart with new seals already in them. If you have done a brake job on a truck last month an a front axle joint failing this month, you need to be able to get that seal out clean. It was old an needed replaces does not fly. If you get a axle togeather an find a spacer still sitting on your parts table, you better be able to get that seal back out. Especially if its something rare. Its easy to run to the part store an eat the price of a seal. But if you have to order a new one an wait 3 days, you may have just messed up your customers vacation plans, or your vacation if its yours that you did that on. But no, I dont expect him to listen to me. I am just some guy on the internet. I comment on every video I think is good, assuming I can think of something to say, not because I expect anyone to read it, few do. Its because I have free time an youtube grades the quality of videos based on how many comments they get. Someone disagreeing with me is also good. You responding twice to me an now me responding back, thats good for his channel. Otherwise I would not waste my time in the comments of any video. If I have prompted you into responding again, telling me how wrong I am, even better for him. More of what TH-cam calls "engagement." None of what we say matters though. Few people actually read comments, less people actually read replies to comments. An those who do already have their own held beliefs like you and I do.
The points you bring up are interesting and logical - which is counter to the concept of products like Bearing Buddies which have the entire space completely pressure filled with grease. It would be really interesting for a video for Project Farm @projectfarm
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Yep, that would be a project farm kind of test. It would not be a cheap test to do though, an hard to get usable data from. Atleast the way I would do it anyway. You would have to start with a pretty heavy boat sitting on a duel axle trailer where both axles are the same axles with the same brakes, adjustted the same. Not easy to start with. No brakes would be easier but not legal where I am. Then you would need to take the hubs apart, rebuild them an do all four diffrently. I would use no extra greese in one, pack one full by hand, use a bearing buddy on one and use a greaseable ported spindle on the other. Then turn a lot of mile an back it down the ramp a lot. See which ones are running hotter. See which ones get water in them. See if the bearing buddies are actually holding pressure, see if either of the greaseable systems are actually filling the housing with greese or is there an airlock, an see if there is cleaner grease in the actual barrings. It would be a good test, posibley saving people millions, but it would be pricy an hard to do. Then again, he may come up with a better way to test it. He comes up with some really good simple shop tests. Say a hub treadmill?
I remember standing in line to pay for the new bearings for my boat trailer. As I stood waiting my turn I noticed a display that had brand new hubs, with bearings, that cost just slightly more than the parts I was holding. I never looked back and replaced them annually with a minimal amount of fuss.
Recently (yesterday) tore into my shorelandr “tadpole” single ski trailer, and ended up completely replacing the hubs with a kit from auto zone. Wanted to repack, but had to beat the old hubs off because the inner seal had failed and they sounded like they were filled with broken glass. Never did it before and will say it was extremely easy and for a $90 complete kit, a no brainer.
I just got done doing one of the bearing on my trailer. Boy, at first I didn’t believe you how messy the grease can get but you were right! I still got one more to go tomorrow. I did vent the lip of the rear seal a little. I tried to straighten it and it end up going through. Do you think is compromised? Also, the wheel should spin very easily free or have some kind of resistance to it?
There should be the slightest resistance from the grease when there's a lot of fresh grease in there. It shouldn't feel too loose or like it is binding. You can loosen and tighten the nut a little as you spin the wheel to feel the differences and find the sweet spot.
Firstly Wayne the boat guy, being similar age to you and doing many many bearings over that time, using your old bearings, I do not see a problem as you explained there wasn't excessive wear or play in the wheel when you first started, and your short distance and occasional use,,,,, what I'm getting to is to let you know of a product I came across last summer,,,, It is called Dura-hub, similar design to that bearing buddy situation you started with, however the best part is this product can be used as a grease packed, or oil only like a sump situation or a combination of oil grease, I'm running axle oil, approximately 90 weight from memory,,,, the hub situation has a glass lens on front so I can see if there is any water in the oil,,,,, I will add as to your video to check the axle face where the rear seal is, making sure that is nice and clean, no damage like rust corrosion or scarring from scratches with screw drivers etc, I regularly tow my boat over 300 miles to boat in various areas from salt to fresh water, that's why I chose these Dura-hub and new kits to my tandem trailer, 8 months 14 days on the water and no water in my oil to date,,,,, just another option, safe boating all
@@PapaMav No idea if it’s a secret, but if you just use a rubber mallet, like the type you use for putting vinyl flooring down, and just don’t whale on it i’ve never had one mar up or dent.
The old grease may be contaminated with water, have metal in it, and possibly be broken down (like old motor oil breaks down) making it less effective at lubricating.
Do NOT do as this video show and lift your trailer using the axel. Lift the trailer using the frame which is much more durable. Lifting by the axel can bend it rendering a replacement necessary.
Hint. Invest in a few rubber mallets from Harbor freight. Big/medium/ small. full set 16.00. Framing hammers are for building things. I'm Funning. good vid.
Excellent vid! Just found you! Can’t get timely service for my travel trailer. Going to do it myself. Any differences in how to do job for travel trailers? Thx much. Great job.
Willing to bet the person that worked on the trailer before put the washer near the grease seal to try to cover the gap between the seal and the rear bearing. They might have had a thicker seal the first time, and then got a new one that was thinner, leaving the gap. From what I've read online that gap is okay as long as the seal is flush to the back of the hub.
You make good vids. I'm with you on most of it. I would have cleaned my old bearings with parts washer/ carb or brake spray cleaner before repacking. and I'm a firm believer in grease fittings under a watertight rubber cup seal. But I drag my boat to water every time I use it. Lots of trailering miles.
Guday Wayne The Boat Guy, I have just successfully inspected and repacked the bearing on my trailer. So thanks again for you very good tutorial. And hello from DownUnder. In Australia you would know as “ Wazza or Wayno the Boat Guru” 😊 Thanks mate.
Yes it’s wrong!! Washer on out side. I do have a seal removing tool, screwdriver works on that. I’ve used tool on trucks including dump and HD dual wheel ones you’d struggle without it.
Good video! My bearing Buddy grease fittings came loose. I d rather fix this myself. I like you're simplicity, w/ o bearing Buddy. The spring loaded grease system I think contributed to this & makes it tougher to put them back on.
Nice video! I’ve learned from experience. The bearing buddies are a better way to go as they keep a positive pressure on the inside and they help keep water out , especially on a boat trailer.
I would poke around and see if there is something else holding things in there. If not, a 2 x 4 might be able to pop the wheel free of the trailer frame.
I use an electric water heater element wrench to remove and put back the castle nuts; perfect size for them and don't need to put the rod through it for leverage.
I bought a boat and trailer last year and have no idea on how long or number of miles put on a trailer and when this procedure should be done. How often should this maintenance be done?
It really varies depending on age of current seals, miles traveled, conditions (salt water, frequency of trips). A simple inspection (spinning the tire, looking for leaks etc) can tell a lot. It doesn't hurt to take things apart every year just to see how it is going.
Great video. Thanks. Quick question if I may. I have the exact same four bolt rim on my old wood splitter (and same size tire too). Unfortunately both of my rims are bad shape and need replacing, but I am having a heck of a time trying to find a replacement rim on line. Any ideas? Many thanks!
Very Very Good Video, Excellent Video My Friend!! I soak all the parts in a small plastic container with gasoline in it. The lil containers I buy at Ace Hardware in the paint dept. It works great as it dissolves all the old grease and cleans everything up nicely.
Tighten it up until the nut is snug (often finger tight is enough) and spin the tire. Then as you are moving the tire, try tightening a little more. When it's too tight it feels like things are grinding, and when it's too loose it's wobbly. If it's grindy or has resistance, it might be too tight.
Love how u explain things n make it feel easy for anyone
Thanks for showing how easy this is. Replaced my bearings and had a guy ask why I would replace the races, had to explain the wear surface thing.
I've done this job multiple times. I'm of the school that believes you can always learn new stuff. I really like the way this video was done as the narrator viewing the video with the audience. It's easier to see what's going on with good viewing angles and stopping the action to point out the more important aspects of the job. Well done, thanks.
Thank you!
Great video for a mundane but common chore. I've used etrailer many times and highly recommend them.
This was a very helpful, I appreciate you thoroughness on all aspects.
Glad it was helpful!
Posted a comment in one of your other videos that I soak em overnight in gasoline in a plastic container like half a milk or juice container.
Absolutely one of the best TH-cam "how to" videos I've ever seen. Bravo and thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Used to do this with my dad over 50 years ago. Never needed to do this through most of my adult life, now I do...Very good refresher...
Who knew Norm MacDonald was mechanically inclined. BTW, I really like the way you filmed this and then reviewed the video. Very cool idea and easy to follow.
I do the majority of my own repairs on my cars, trucks, mowers, and other equipment. Oddly enough, I have never repacked bearings on any of my trailers. I really appreciate the straight forward manner you went through this process. It was easy to follow and understand. I plan on pulling the bearings on my trailers within the next couple of months to repack them and I believe I will be able to do this after watching your video. I really appreciate you taking the time to post it!
I wish every “how to” video on the internet would be this clear and informative. I’m about to help my grandpa repack his trailer bearings and thought I should do some research before hand. Thanks for sharing this as well as providing helpful tips along the way Wayne!
Thanks for this video, I just did the bearings on my aluminum trailer. Perfect explanation and good pacing. I was able to follow along with the video as I did mine
I sell RV's/travel trailers and nobody trains you in this stuff, this was so helpful dude seriously thank you!!
This video is excellent. I have ZERO mechanical skill and was able repack and grease my boat trailer hubs. Thank you so much. Clear video, easy to follow steps. Very well done sir!!
Great to hear!
For cleaning the wheel bearings, I use a method that seems to work really well. I just use some old gas (new gas is fine to), fill on container with it, and put the bearings, washers, nuts and any other metal parts with grease that I want to clean in the gas. The shuffle/stir the parts around until the are clean. The gas will wash away all of the old grease like it's nothin'. This will guarantee that all of the fine metal dust/shavings gets washed out as well. One other nice thing is that the gas can be used for this purpose over and over again. I've done this with trailer bearings, car and truck bearings, garden tractor bearings and even motorcycle wheel/steering head bearings and fork tube parts. Works great!
This is the method I use at the start of each season. I take a utility knife and cut a "dish" out of a empty plastic container like for milk or juice. Let is "degrease" over night. When finished with the job, I burn both the gas and the greasey rags in my fire pit.
The advantage too of clearning the bearings using gas, is, it is easier to inspect them for wear/hot spots on the rollers so you know they can be reused.
@PapaMav I agree! Definitely easier to inspect when they are that clean.
It is a much better option to use kerosene or paint thinner. Gasoline is extremely flammable!
I’d recommend using some sort of food grade grease like Amsoil GXCCR-EA to lubricate any bearing that is going to be submerged in water. It is some of the most water resistant grease on the market. It will not wash away and it keeps its lubricating values the longest. We use it to lube the bearings in our jet skis which stay submerged for months at a time during the summer.
Thanx Wayne, you have helped me with so many of your to do videos. your easy to understand KISS (Keep it simple stupid) explainations and thouroughness in explaining step by step. when ever I takle a new boating project I check to see if you've done a video on it. I'm working on a 1960 glasspar seafair sedan project boat and can use all the help I can get. Thank You for the time you invest in these videos. keep em coming, Todd (Rik)
Actually, instead of Actually tapping it with an Actual hammer, Actually try squirting some break free on it first. Actually. Actually, besides using the crutch word "Actually" in just about every sentence, you make very instructive videos which I Actually enjoy. Actually, I even subscribed to your channel.
Great step by step guide and explanation! And yes the overwhelming majority of people that you see pulled over on the highway with trailer bearing /axle issues are because they have neglected this type of maintenance for years.
Thank you.
Tighten the castle nut just enough until there's no play (as seen at 3:40). Too tight and too loose can cause the bearings and races to wear faster. It's a good idea to check for play and tighten the nut accordingly every year or more often if the trailer is used a lot.
Great video, a dead blow hammer works for installing the seal and hub cap. 50 + years ago we didn't have the gloves and found the grease didn't seem to hurt our hands when loading the bearings. Lol
I never used to use gloves either - but they're really useful for having "date night ready" hands later in the day and when you're also trying to periodically turn on and off two cameras!
Not necessary to slather that much grease on the axle since the contact points are only: 1) the rubber lip on the grease seal (always get double lipped ones btw) 2) & 3) where the bearings contact the axle; the actual rolling is the bearing on the races. Never liked zerk fittings on axles or "bearing buddies" since you pump in a lot of grease but never certain it is in the right places. Also never liked the "bearing packer"; tried one from Harbor Fright and returned it. Using hands is the best packing method. I also take the grease gun and before I put the grease seal on, and pump grease around and into the inner bearing while it sits in the race (after smearing a some grease around the races), then pump some on the inside of the seal so when I tap the seal on, it mushes grease further into to the rollers. For the outer bearing I do the same with the grease gun on the bearing, then put a bead of grease on the inside of the washer so when I put it in the hub, it mushes further grease into the outer bearing.
I did not have a flat washer or washers at either end of my bearings either, and I had the exact same little 4 bolt wheels on a similar boat trailer as you did. Moreover when I bought the bearing, and race replacement kits for both wheels, they did not come with washers either. Yet they came with new end seal rings. I just thought that's the original design and it seems to work fine. I am now going to dismantle the other wheel hub and see what it had.
Let me know, I have the same issue
This is the best video I've seen on bearings and need a reminder every few years. Thank you for making it!
Glad it was helpful!
Very awesome tutorial video!!! You make things look so easy!!!! Stay Safe & God Bless!!
Thanks so much
Great information ! when i come back from a trip ,I touch my rim and they are quite warm ,is that normal or shoud they be cold to the touch?
I will put my hand on the shaft where the dust caps go on to check for this after every trip.
There is always some friction, so being warm is ok.
thanks for the in-depth video
Excellent tutorial on an important topic that gets overlooked too often. This is how you avoid getting stranded on the side of the highway with your boat.
over-filled 'Bearing-buddies' are often the cause of the axle seals being blown off the inside bearing. 'Buddies' should be only filled until the spring is slightly compressed and no more
Hi Wayne. I constantly had bearing issues using dust caps. Water would get into the bearings and ruin them. I was having to replace bearings every 12 to 24 months. I switched to bearing buddys 10 years ago and have not had to replace bearings since. It is a bad idea to throw your old bearing buddy away.
That's some good 'first-hand' experience. Thanks for sharing!
I've done this many times. Also agree that e-trailer is a great source. Their CS is excellent.
Love your video format. You're narrating a video you already took. Most content creators want to talk as they do the job. Excellent job.
I appreciate you noticing!
Great video - been wary of trailer bearings since my boat trailer wheel crumbled on the way to the boat marina about 15 years ago! Can launch my boat without immersing the hub but not when retrieving it!!
should you use some type of adhesive on inner seal? ive been told that i should use RTV on seal and blue Loctite on dust cover? I forgot to use it on dust cover last time and first trip it was gone. Great video very informative.
Pass on the bearing packer.
Best way to put caps on is getting a piece of PVC or steel pipe that fits over the cap and rests on the lip. Now just tap the cap on with no damage. There are also cheap tools to take those caps off without damage.
I like the PVC pipe trick!
For a 1.98 inch cap use a short piece of 2 inch PVC pipe, the piece i use is maybe 3 inches. Had the lumber yard cut me a piece as that was the one size I did not have lying around. Worked great.
Really solid video, thanks! Wish I would have watched it before I did my first run at this, but you helped me feel better about the job I did.
Question, did your spindle have a zerk for a grease gun? Mine does, however I ripped mine off on one of the spindles by accident. I got the grease gun stuck on it. The zerk was a "driver" style, not threaded, and with the force I used trying to pull the grease hose loose, I pulled the sucker right out. Hoping it will be ok withlut the zerk, as it is still capped and had plenty of new grease inside.
The Chinese cups , cones , and bearings are of very inferior quality ! Clean as much grease off the assembly as possible and spray clean with ether . Apply Permatex # 2 non-hardening sealant on outer diameter of the wheel hub seal . . 001 to .005 bearing end play .
I've watched several videos over the past few days as I prepare to try this myself. This one was by far the most detailed and informative. Thnx!
I noticed a grease fitting on the inner side of my axle, behind the plate with the lug nuts. I've seen this fitting in other videos also, although not yours. I'm guessing that if you just want to replace or add grease without further disassembly you could pull the dust/grease cover off and then pump in new/additional grease until it squirts out around the castle nut. Correct?
check grease compatibility -- if you don't know what the old grease was, better to use the parts washer to get the old stuff out
Very Good Video THANK YOU. I like the style you did in as well - Now off to get my hands greasy!😄
Who uses Hi-Temp Brake grease (red)?
Excellent video, talking it through on the screen is much better than trying to talk to the camera as you do the job. I would always recommend bearing buddies for boat trailers because the hubs are immersed when launching and retrieving the boat. They work by slightly pressurising the hub. The theory is that water can't get in if the pressure inside the hub is higher than the external water pressure. It's quite normal for a bit of grease to push out through the seal when using bearing buddies, especially with single lip seals. Here in New Zealand at least, the vast majority of trailer hubs these days have double lip seals that remain static on the axle, and run on a replaceable stainless sleeve pressed into the hub.
Just went through this but also replaced my bearings and races. Mine didn’t have a washer either but I confirmed with Dexter and it didn’t come with one from factory for that model idler hub. I had over $55 in bearings. I could have replaced both hubs for $66 so considering my time I should have gone that route.
Thank Wayne for demonstrating this procedure. I had a question as you were reassembling the races and you answered it - tapered side in. This my first time doing this and I feel totally confident thanks to this video.
Great video Wayne! 👍. I really enjoyed it, very informative from start to finish!
Thanks 👍
Thats a pretty decent job, an how I did it before my college professers told me otherwise.
First, the rear seal, yes there is a tool for removing it, an you were holding it. The way it is done, you take the castle nut off, remove the outter bearings an then put the castle nut back on. Now you grab the wheel, push down on it an jerk the wheel straight off. The castle nut works as a ouller with the inner bearing as a spacer poping the inner seal out with no damage. Assuming it was good to begin with, you do not have to buy any new parts. Just repack an reinstall. A customer that didn't have to buy any new parts is a return customer. Your way works when the seal is already bad.
Next, repacking the bearings themself. Not only do I like your way, my college teachers and text books do to. The palm method, but you can use a bearing packer. Pusing the old grease out with the new grease also pushes the metalic grit out of the bearing. All that metalic grit wants to stick to the inside of the bearing if you use a cleaner to break down the grease.
Now the hard part. The part to correct you on. An I did this for years. And there are companies making money off this who will disagree. But you can have to much grease in there. Atleast the books says so. There does need to be the grease in the brearing, but thats really it. A thin film of grease on any metal that could rust an on the contact point of the seal is all the extra that needs to be in there. A little more is not going to matter, but a lot more is bad. Heres the thing my college professors pounded in to my head. That extra grease can not migrate into the bearing. Good grease stays where you put it. The only way it will ever get into the bearing is if it melts, and then you dont want it in there. What that extra greese does do is hold heat. The bearing will actually run hotter, shortening the life of the grease in the bearing and the bearing its self.
Thats what the book says anyway. And thats what I follow on other people cars trucks an trailers an my cars trucks and trailers that see highway miles. But... I dont always do what I am told. I question everything. Like you, my boat trailer only has to travel a few miles usually to the river. And like yours it does not have brakes dumping heat in to the bearings. So on it, heat is not the problem. Water is. Even a trailer that has only seen a few miles, the bearings are pretty warm. When you back down into the water, you quench them. Rapid cooling contracts the air in the hub. Now not only do you have the weight of the water pushing in on the real seal, you now have a vaccume trying to pull that water in also. Unless that seal is perfict, its going to suck in water an any trash thats in that water. Now every mile that water is washing out the grease inside those bearings. So heres the way I see it. On my boat trailer, an only it, I pack evey inch of space inside the hub with grease. Greese expands an contracts with heat much less than air. So if I get in a hurry an back down the ramp before my hubs have cooled, that vacuum is atleast less. And the way I see it, even if water does get in, with it packed full of greese, the water has no way of getting to the bearings. I may be wrong, an maybe I sould do it by the book, but I dont. On that trailer anyway. If I decide to take a road trip with it to florida, I may repack them by the book. Then again, I am lazy so probably not.
You must be lazy to not replace the grease seal every year; they're cheap from Etrailer and since it is smart to do this every year and take everything apart, why not replace the grease seal while doing all this? Does not make sense to cheap out and not to.
I would not listen to this guy: I would not buy a bearing packer, it would not use the castle nut to get the hub assembly apart, I would not fill every cavity with grease (he actually contradicts himself in principle if you read what he wrote). The only thing he is right about how water eventually intrudes inside the hub, which is why you take it appart at the beggining of season, replace the seals and do all the cleaning and regreasing. I check my hubs temps with my hands just before launching and right after getting home: they are never hot to the touch; later in the season, just before the end, they may be slightly warm as a result of said water working it's way in, but never enough to do the maintenance more than once a year.
@@PapaMav I dont see a contradiction. I said adding extra grease is considered the wrong way to do it. I only do it on my boat trailer because I can get away with it being very close to the ramp. An so far it seems to work. I do a lot of things to experiment on my stuff. Some work some do not. An in this case I control the enviroment. I dont think I am the only Tech that treats the things he owns differently than customers stuff. As the saying goes, "The Cobbler's children have no shoes." The tire guy telling you he cant fix your tire because the nail is to close to the sidewall, he probably would fix it if it was his tire. Not a contradiction, just the way the world works. Insurance, Lawsuits, not wanting to come home an fix your own stuff or just wanting to try something.
The correct way I was taught in a College Automotive Technical program was no extra grease other than a light coating. The reason given is that the grease holds in extra heat an can never make its way in to the bearing. Its also A waste of grease an a mess you have to deal with next time, so dont add extra grease is the rule. I have followed this rule ever sense for everything but experimenting with my personal boat trailer, an I have yet to see any reason to think the rule may be wrong.
How much heat matters in a trailler axel is relitave. Its a nonissue with my 700 pound boat with no brakes going a few miles. More of an issue with my Cousin pulling his party barge through 3 states. An even more of an issue for my neaghbor pulling his cabin cruser down a winding mountain road to the river. The brakes on those trailers are glowing red when they pull into the ramp right at the foot of the mountain. Its all relative.
I do not think he needs a bearing packer either. He has the hand method down. They work fine though.
Using the castle nut to remove the rear seal was also straight from college class. It works. I dont think my college invented the idea, Its been done that way for a long time before that class an I still do it 25 years later.
If you want to replace it every time, you can. It does not cost that much. But that only works when its yours an your money. Its a bit of an oversimplified way of looking at things though. Its always better to know how to get a part out cleanly an have the option of replacing, vs not knowing an having no choice.
When you are working for someone else, on someone elses stuff an using someone elses money, things are more complicated. You need to be able to get the seal out intact. At the least so you can show them an actual reason it needs to be replaced. If all you have to show them is a seal you distroyed takeing out, they will asssume your inability to remove it is the real reason they need a new one. Don't expect that coustomer back.
You are also commonly taking things apart with new seals already in them. If you have done a brake job on a truck last month an a front axle joint failing this month, you need to be able to get that seal out clean. It was old an needed replaces does not fly. If you get a axle togeather an find a spacer still sitting on your parts table, you better be able to get that seal back out. Especially if its something rare. Its easy to run to the part store an eat the price of a seal. But if you have to order a new one an wait 3 days, you may have just messed up your customers vacation plans, or your vacation if its yours that you did that on.
But no, I dont expect him to listen to me. I am just some guy on the internet. I comment on every video I think is good, assuming I can think of something to say, not because I expect anyone to read it, few do. Its because I have free time an youtube grades the quality of videos based on how many comments they get. Someone disagreeing with me is also good. You responding twice to me an now me responding back, thats good for his channel. Otherwise I would not waste my time in the comments of any video. If I have prompted you into responding again, telling me how wrong I am, even better for him. More of what TH-cam calls "engagement." None of what we say matters though. Few people actually read comments, less people actually read replies to comments. An those who do already have their own held beliefs like you and I do.
The points you bring up are interesting and logical - which is counter to the concept of products like Bearing Buddies which have the entire space completely pressure filled with grease. It would be really interesting for a video for Project Farm @projectfarm
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Yep, that would be a project farm kind of test. It would not be a cheap test to do though, an hard to get usable data from. Atleast the way I would do it anyway.
You would have to start with a pretty heavy boat sitting on a duel axle trailer where both axles are the same axles with the same brakes, adjustted the same. Not easy to start with. No brakes would be easier but not legal where I am. Then you would need to take the hubs apart, rebuild them an do all four diffrently. I would use no extra greese in one, pack one full by hand, use a bearing buddy on one and use a greaseable ported spindle on the other. Then turn a lot of mile an back it down the ramp a lot. See which ones are running hotter. See which ones get water in them. See if the bearing buddies are actually holding pressure, see if either of the greaseable systems are actually filling the housing with greese or is there an airlock, an see if there is cleaner grease in the actual barrings.
It would be a good test, posibley saving people millions, but it would be pricy an hard to do. Then again, he may come up with a better way to test it. He comes up with some really good simple shop tests. Say a hub treadmill?
How much grease do you recommend loading into the end cap? I don’t have bearing buddies
Wayne, thank you for sharing the video on repacking your bearings can't wait for your next video I do enjoy them have a great day ciao for now bro.
4 minutes into the video and we're still explaining what grease looks like? TLDW
I put the bearings in a baggie with the grease and knead away.
That's a nice tip!!
If all the talking was left out, the result would have been the same for the audience.
Excellent and easy to follow video. THanks for explaining everything.
I remember standing in line to pay for the new bearings for my boat trailer. As I stood waiting my turn I noticed a display that had brand new hubs, with bearings, that cost just slightly more than the parts I was holding. I never looked back and replaced them annually with a minimal amount of fuss.
That's makes for a better way to spend the rest of the day!
Recently (yesterday) tore into my shorelandr “tadpole” single ski trailer, and ended up completely replacing the hubs with a kit from auto zone. Wanted to repack, but had to beat the old hubs off because the inner seal had failed and they sounded like they were filled with broken glass. Never did it before and will say it was extremely easy and for a $90 complete kit, a no brainer.
I bought my hitch from e trailer. They were awesome, cheaper than Amazon, and the shipping was faster.
I did too, Curt.
Great video. Very concise & full of excellent tips well done
I just got done doing one of the bearing on my trailer. Boy, at first I didn’t believe you how messy the grease can get but you were right! I still got one more to go tomorrow. I did vent the lip of the rear seal a little. I tried to straighten it and it end up going through. Do you think is compromised? Also, the wheel should spin very easily free or have some kind of resistance to it?
There should be the slightest resistance from the grease when there's a lot of fresh grease in there. It shouldn't feel too loose or like it is binding. You can loosen and tighten the nut a little as you spin the wheel to feel the differences and find the sweet spot.
Firstly Wayne the boat guy, being similar age to you and doing many many bearings over that time, using your old bearings, I do not see a problem as you explained there wasn't excessive wear or play in the wheel when you first started, and your short distance and occasional use,,,,, what I'm getting to is to let you know of a product I came across last summer,,,, It is called Dura-hub, similar design to that bearing buddy situation you started with, however the best part is this product can be used as a grease packed, or oil only like a sump situation or a combination of oil grease, I'm running axle oil, approximately 90 weight from memory,,,, the hub situation has a glass lens on front so I can see if there is any water in the oil,,,,, I will add as to your video to check the axle face where the rear seal is, making sure that is nice and clean, no damage like rust corrosion or scarring from scratches with screw drivers etc, I regularly tow my boat over 300 miles to boat in various areas from salt to fresh water, that's why I chose these Dura-hub and new kits to my tandem trailer, 8 months 14 days on the water and no water in my oil to date,,,,, just another option, safe boating all
Oh, sorry, I should clarify, I am not sponsored or have any business relationship with these products other than a satisfied customer
Yeah I've seen those type on some large equipment - never seen them on on a boat trailer!
I have done this twice in the past but i watched this video to refresh myself with it. really very good video, thanks.
Great to hear!
I was always taught to leave just a slight wobble? Is that wrong?
The trick is to not have it tight, but not too wobbly. Mine was too wobbly in my opinion.
Nice reference on wheel bearings, but if you used a rubber mallet on the caps they would look new.
GREAT POINT - 100% correct and I even have one too!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy nah, I tried that; really no way to avoid denting flat face dust caps no matter how you try to set them on the hub.
@@PapaMavabsolutely there is.
@@jimyeats nah, not ones that already have a flat face; unless you have some secret you wish to share with the rest of us.
@@PapaMav No idea if it’s a secret, but if you just use a rubber mallet, like the type you use for putting vinyl flooring down, and just don’t whale on it i’ve never had one mar up or dent.
Just out of curiosity sake. Was the flat washer on the other wheel put on the inside as well?
I actually haven't done the other wheel yet - I am eager to see myself!
Washer always goes on the nut side.
Very informative video.
Here's a dumb question - why is it so important to remove the old grease?
The old grease may be contaminated with water, have metal in it, and possibly be broken down (like old motor oil breaks down) making it less effective at lubricating.
Do NOT do as this video show and lift your trailer using the axel. Lift the trailer using the frame which is much more durable. Lifting by the axel can bend it rendering a replacement necessary.
Hint. Invest in a few rubber mallets from Harbor freight. Big/medium/ small. full set 16.00. Framing hammers are for building things. I'm Funning. good vid.
Excellent vid! Just found you! Can’t get timely service for my travel trailer. Going to do it myself. Any differences in how to do job for travel trailers? Thx much. Great job.
Willing to bet the person that worked on the trailer before put the washer near the grease seal to try to cover the gap between the seal and the rear bearing. They might have had a thicker seal the first time, and then got a new one that was thinner, leaving the gap. From what I've read online that gap is okay as long as the seal is flush to the back of the hub.
Where is your backstop washer? I don’t understand why I’m watching all these videos and nobody has a backstop washer.
You make good vids. I'm with you on most of it. I would have cleaned my old bearings with parts washer/ carb or brake spray cleaner before repacking. and I'm a firm believer in grease fittings under a watertight rubber cup seal. But I drag my boat to water every time I use it. Lots of trailering miles.
Guday Wayne The Boat Guy,
I have just successfully inspected and repacked the bearing on my trailer.
So thanks again for you very good tutorial.
And hello from DownUnder.
In Australia you would know as “ Wazza or Wayno the Boat Guru” 😊
Thanks mate.
You do a great job on your videos. Good sense of humor information is right on. Keep up the great work.
Thank you!
Yes it’s wrong!! Washer on out side. I do have a seal removing tool, screwdriver works on that. I’ve used tool on trucks including dump and HD dual wheel ones you’d struggle without it.
Good video! My bearing Buddy grease fittings came loose. I d rather fix this myself. I like you're simplicity, w/ o bearing Buddy. The spring loaded grease system I think contributed to this & makes it tougher to put them back on.
do not ever put any bearing assembly into a parts washer or attempt to wash a bearing with any solvent. unless you fancy buying new bearings.
I would use marine grease, being it's going in the water for boat launch, retrieve.
10/10 thank you sir! Also I own a lone star tinny. Awesome boat!
Nice video! I’ve learned from experience. The bearing buddies are a better way to go as they keep a positive pressure on the inside and they help keep water out , especially on a boat trailer.
Castel short for castelated nut. Not sure on spelling.CHEERS from Here!
Hi & thanks for your work, would you please happen to know the serial number of the grease seals you used?
good stuff love the channel!
Appreciate it!
n It is better to do this than be broke down on the side of the road with burned up bearings, I check mine at less once a year
I had to replace inside seals on mine, they were worn out. Grease would go past them, and water would enter. The bearings and races were good.
Thank you! It's been helpful.
My trailer tire doesnt come off after castle nut part. Advice?
I would poke around and see if there is something else holding things in there. If not, a 2 x 4 might be able to pop the wheel free of the trailer frame.
Wheel is off now my bearing closest to the chasi is not coming undone
I use an electric water heater element wrench to remove and put back the castle nuts; perfect size for them and don't need to put the rod through it for leverage.
I bought a boat and trailer last year and have no idea on how long or number of miles put on a trailer and when this procedure should be done. How often should this maintenance be done?
It really varies depending on age of current seals, miles traveled, conditions (salt water, frequency of trips). A simple inspection (spinning the tire, looking for leaks etc) can tell a lot. It doesn't hurt to take things apart every year just to see how it is going.
I like to use etrailer for parts also. They seem to have everything I need and ship it out quickly.
Absolutely need to change the bearings every few years. Mine just fell off while driving on the freeway. Luckily no accident and no one was hurt.
Oh geez - that’s scary!
Great video. Thanks. Quick question if I may. I have the exact same four bolt rim on my old wood splitter (and same size tire too). Unfortunately both of my rims are bad shape and need replacing, but I am having a heck of a time trying to find a replacement rim on line. Any ideas? Many thanks!
I think WalMart sells the tire with this rim - I don't know anyone just selling the rim
Very informative and well explained video sir!
Thanks I really was able to learn how the inner workings of a boat trailer works
Very Very Good Video, Excellent Video My Friend!! I soak all the parts in a small plastic container with gasoline in it. The lil containers I buy at Ace Hardware in the paint dept. It works great as it dissolves all the old grease and cleans everything up nicely.
Great tip!
Outstanding video!!!! Thank you.
How to repackage camper trailer bearings
Good video, thanks. When you say both inner and outer bearings are tapered...to clarify, both go with the smaller side towards the trailer? Thanks.
The smaller side goes to the center of the wheel hub
You can soak the bearing in gas to remove the old grease, This allows you to check the condition of the bearings and to use only new grease.
good tip!
So the part that takes skill is the FEEL for not too tight, not too loose with the castle nut. That's what prevents me from doing Bearings.
Tighten it up until the nut is snug (often finger tight is enough) and spin the tire. Then as you are moving the tire, try tightening a little more. When it's too tight it feels like things are grinding, and when it's too loose it's wobbly. If it's grindy or has resistance, it might be too tight.