I got the ring of death years ago .I was planning to use the kinect as a 3d scanner / camera. the power source is also useful. Thanks. What did u do with the rest? There are some useful components in there but i dont know if they can be used for something else(maybe like reprogramming the xbox 360 to work as a computer or something )
The rest was thrown away for recycling. I didn't have specific uses for the parts at the time and no place to store spare parts. But indeed, there are multiple parts that could be reused : heatsink, buttons, fasteners, connectors, etc. As for the motherboard, unfortunately, I don't think the effort/time required to make it useful is worth it. There are so many cheap and easy to use compute platforms nowadays.
DieselPowered Yes Make the Xbox 360 slim into an original xbox360 power supply Maybe an adapter for the slim power supply to the original xbox360 console power plug
I would advise against using the Xbox360 Slim power supply with the original Xbox 360. The Xbox 360 Slim is rated at 135 watt, while the original Xbox 360 requires between 150 and 200 watt : support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-360/console/power-supply
DieselPowered I plan to take the disc drive out, because most of my games are digital anyways, and I don't want it to overheat, I am sure if you can make an adapter for it that will work just fine.
I don't have access to an Xbox one, so I don't know how the power supply works. This video is about the Xbox 360 slim power supply. Good luck with your experiments on the Xbox one power supply. Let me know if it works with only 12V.
I believe the 5V powers on the power supply from standby mode. So when you hit the power on button from the XBOX or the controller it sends a signal to the 5V(red wire)and small blue wire to to power on the power supply "brick"
This is an older video so I’m not sure if you will reply to this but I’m not sure. I’m attempting to use the power supply as a power brick for an arduino. I only need the 5 volts and I have my red wire hooked to the 5v standby but no output, I’m assuming cause it’s not grounded. When I do ground it, the LED turns red.
I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. Are you directly connecting the red (5V supply) to ground? This should not be done, as it shorts the 5V supply.
@@dieselpowered Sorry didn’t know the exact name for it but I have a 2.1mm x 5.5mm male plugged into the arduino and it has a red and black wire to hook into it. I hook the red wire to my 5v standby but no matter what I hook the ground to it sets off a red light on the power supply
@@daltonriggs861 Another viewer had a similar issue and his problem was that the grey wires were floating. I would suggest you connect all the black and grey wires together, then connect the ground wire from your plug to this black/grey ground. If it still turns red, you might want to make sure the power input in your Arduino is not broken/shorted
@@dieselpowered Connecting the floating grey wire fixed it, it now stays orange and will output the 5v. Thank you so much. I’m gonna try to use a stepper motor and a photoresistor to have the blinds automatically twist open in the morning/ close at night!
Hi, thanks for the video, I have one of these PSUs so this was helpful. The power supply is rated at 12v 10A, which seems a lot of current for the size wiring you have used, has this been a problem for you in use?
Thanks Dave. I only used it for low power applications and for short duration, so I never had a problem. The wiring from the power supply to the connector is the original wiring. So if you want to draw the total rated current, I would use equivalent wire gauge (or larger) as the original power supply.
Between this comment and what was said in the video, I feel as though I may have something of a unicorn anomaly Xbox 360 power brick because mine has an output of: // DC 175W // 12V - 14A // 5V - 1A // 5A higher than the unit in the video, 4A higher than yours.... Why would this be?? Either way, I came here looking for ideas to transform mine into an adjustable output DC PSU for random projects & bench testing after opening mine up to find it in excellent like new condition... One thing that I’ve never seen before, which I’m wondering if either of you would understand is that the 5V rating doesn’t JUST SAY “5V” the way the 12V rating reads simply as “12V” - instead it reads as “5Vsb” - any clue what the “sb” means???? Also, the enclosure you used was something I’ve never seen before, nor would even think to use... But it opened my mind up to it and i appreciate that!! I typically aim to repurpose as much of an old item as possible. For example - when modifying this particular device, my first goal would be to see if I can install the additional components DIRECTLY INTO the original AC/DC brick case. Therefore, the original components inside would be left as is while anything new would be positioned carefully around them and any HOLES needed would be made to look as “factory” as possible... If you have any reason why you decided AGAINST this method, I’d love to hear it (if you’re still checking comments 2 years later) Thanks!!!
Microsoft released multiple versions of the Xbox 360. The power supply in the the video is from an Xbox 360 Slim, a late addition to the Xbox 360 lineup. Each version has different power requirements, which explains the different Xbox 360 power supply output capacities. The "sb" in the "5Vsb" is probably for "standby". This is the power rail that is always active. As for modifying the original power supply enclosure, I can't really comment, I never opened it.
I am trying to create my own version of this, however when i plug in the power supply the led goes straight to red. Just making sure, the ground + grey wire go together. while the yellow are +12v and you short the blue and red wire to enable 12v? If i dont short the blue and red wires before plugging in the supply the led is orange. If i unplug the supply and short the wires the led is red. I made sure that the red is still +5v so the supply seems to be healthy.
Your description of each wire is correct. When you plug the power supply in the wall without blue connected to red, the LED will be orange. After connecting blue and red, the LED will turn green and 12V will be enabled. Now, if you disconnect red and blue, the LED will turn red. This is probably considered a fault. The power supply will stay in this fault state (red LED) until you power it off (disconnect from the wall)
@@dieselpowered when I connect red and blue, it still turns red. Is there a fault with my unit itself? Just to clarify. I didn't remove them. They stay connected but turn red still.
You could use a boost converter to boost the 12V to 13.8V. You can find very cheap modules on eBay or AliExpress. Their output can be a bit noisy and I don't know if this can be a problem in your application.
Hey man! Would love a little help. Where should the grey wire be wired to?
Grey and black can be connected together
@@dieselpowered --thanks for this--once I soldered the grey to the black, I stopped getting solid red lights (short)
Can I use it to charge the laptop battery. I don't have the charger for any of my laptops
Battery Rating Voltage. 11.1v. 48W (4400mah
Great video man ! Will the inside fan still work with this setup ?
I got the ring of death years ago .I was planning to use the kinect as a 3d scanner / camera. the power source is also useful. Thanks. What did u do with the rest? There are some useful components in there but i dont know if they can be used for something else(maybe like reprogramming the xbox 360 to work as a computer or something )
The rest was thrown away for recycling. I didn't have specific uses for the parts at the time and no place to store spare parts. But indeed, there are multiple parts that could be reused : heatsink, buttons, fasteners, connectors, etc. As for the motherboard, unfortunately, I don't think the effort/time required to make it useful is worth it. There are so many cheap and easy to use compute platforms nowadays.
I want to use that power supply for my older Xbox360, make a video show us how to do it, and or sell me the power supply
You want to use an Xbox360 slim power supply with the original Xbox360?
DieselPowered
Yes
Make the Xbox 360 slim into an original xbox360 power supply
Maybe an adapter for the slim power supply to the original xbox360 console power plug
I would advise against using the Xbox360 Slim power supply with the original Xbox 360. The Xbox 360 Slim is rated at 135 watt, while the original Xbox 360 requires between 150 and 200 watt : support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-360/console/power-supply
DieselPowered
I plan to take the disc drive out, because most of my games are digital anyways, and I don't want it to overheat, I am sure if you can make an adapter for it that will work just fine.
DieselPowered
Please man make a video of either the slim power supply, or maybe modding the original Xbox360 to use an XBOXONE-S power supply
why the xbox one power supply need the 5v, i wanna try using a regular power supply 12v
I don't have access to an Xbox one, so I don't know how the power supply works. This video is about the Xbox 360 slim power supply. Good luck with your experiments on the Xbox one power supply. Let me know if it works with only 12V.
I believe the 5V powers on the power supply from standby mode. So when you hit the power on button from the XBOX or the controller it sends a signal to the 5V(red wire)and small blue wire to to power on the power supply "brick"
This is an older video so I’m not sure if you will reply to this but I’m not sure. I’m attempting to use the power supply as a power brick for an arduino. I only need the 5 volts and I have my red wire hooked to the 5v standby but no output, I’m assuming cause it’s not grounded. When I do ground it, the LED turns red.
I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. Are you directly connecting the red (5V supply) to ground? This should not be done, as it shorts the 5V supply.
@@dieselpowered Sorry didn’t know the exact name for it but I have a 2.1mm x 5.5mm male plugged into the arduino and it has a red and black wire to hook into it. I hook the red wire to my 5v standby but no matter what I hook the ground to it sets off a red light on the power supply
@@daltonriggs861 Another viewer had a similar issue and his problem was that the grey wires were floating. I would suggest you connect all the black and grey wires together, then connect the ground wire from your plug to this black/grey ground. If it still turns red, you might want to make sure the power input in your Arduino is not broken/shorted
@@dieselpowered Connecting the floating grey wire fixed it, it now stays orange and will output the 5v. Thank you so much. I’m gonna try to use a stepper motor and a photoresistor to have the blinds automatically twist open in the morning/ close at night!
Hi, thanks for the video, I have one of these PSUs so this was helpful. The power supply is rated at 12v 10A, which seems a lot of current for the size wiring you have used, has this been a problem for you in use?
Thanks Dave. I only used it for low power applications and for short duration, so I never had a problem. The wiring from the power supply to the connector is the original wiring. So if you want to draw the total rated current, I would use equivalent wire gauge (or larger) as the original power supply.
Between this comment and what was said in the video, I feel as though I may have something of a unicorn anomaly Xbox 360 power brick because mine has an output of:
// DC 175W // 12V - 14A // 5V - 1A //
5A higher than the unit in the video, 4A higher than yours.... Why would this be??
Either way, I came here looking for ideas to transform mine into an adjustable output DC PSU for random projects & bench testing after opening mine up to find it in excellent like new condition...
One thing that I’ve never seen before, which I’m wondering if either of you would understand is that the 5V rating doesn’t JUST SAY “5V” the way the 12V rating reads simply as “12V” - instead it reads as “5Vsb” - any clue what the “sb” means????
Also, the enclosure you used was something I’ve never seen before, nor would even think to use... But it opened my mind up to it and i appreciate that!!
I typically aim to repurpose as much of an old item as possible. For example - when modifying this particular device, my first goal would be to see if I can install the additional components DIRECTLY INTO the original AC/DC brick case. Therefore, the original components inside would be left as is while anything new would be positioned carefully around them and any HOLES needed would be made to look as “factory” as possible... If you have any reason why you decided AGAINST this method, I’d love to hear it (if you’re still checking comments 2 years later)
Thanks!!!
Microsoft released multiple versions of the Xbox 360. The power supply in the the video is from an Xbox 360 Slim, a late addition to the Xbox 360 lineup. Each version has different power requirements, which explains the different Xbox 360 power supply output capacities.
The "sb" in the "5Vsb" is probably for "standby". This is the power rail that is always active.
As for modifying the original power supply enclosure, I can't really comment, I never opened it.
I am trying to create my own version of this, however when i plug in the power supply the led goes straight to red. Just making sure, the ground + grey wire go together. while the yellow are +12v and you short the blue and red wire to enable 12v? If i dont short the blue and red wires before plugging in the supply the led is orange. If i unplug the supply and short the wires the led is red. I made sure that the red is still +5v so the supply seems to be healthy.
Your description of each wire is correct. When you plug the power supply in the wall without blue connected to red, the LED will be orange. After connecting blue and red, the LED will turn green and 12V will be enabled. Now, if you disconnect red and blue, the LED will turn red. This is probably considered a fault. The power supply will stay in this fault state (red LED) until you power it off (disconnect from the wall)
@@dieselpowered when I connect red and blue, it still turns red. Is there a fault with my unit itself? Just to clarify. I didn't remove them. They stay connected but turn red still.
@@ColinHuangRB Try connecting red and blue together before plugging the power supply in the wall
@@dieselpowered thanks for replying mate. Tried that too. turns red straight away
I use this power supply for run my ham radio it would be nice if there was any mods to get the volt up to 13.8 v rather then 12 volt
You could use a boost converter to boost the 12V to 13.8V. You can find very cheap modules on eBay or AliExpress. Their output can be a bit noisy and I don't know if this can be a problem in your application.
Don't really fancy using booster they are noisy it will interference the radio thanks anyway.
Nice!!!!
My power brick turn red when i connect the blue wire to 5volts
You need to wire them together before you plug the power brick
DieselPowered thanks for the help i forgot the grey wire that was the problem its working now great video btw.