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Hey man, thanks for your video. Information on this type of design of casters is pretty sparse, and the Markus chair I got uses these. I'm probably not going to drill holes in them, but go for the M6 bolt method you linked. Your video was really helpful though to understand how those brakes work and how an M6 bolt in that bottom hole might solve the problem..

Since publishing my video, I've seen people use other methods that might be easier. Suggestions : th-cam.com/video/s9uZBvyq7KM/w-d-xo.html , th-cam.com/video/OARoG_gmYAA/w-d-xo.html , th-cam.com/video/IQK259cElGY/w-d-xo.html

@@dieselpowered thank you very much

No. The filter is required. It wicks the water from the bottom of the device. The water evaporating from the filter increases the ambient humidity.

Many retailers (home improvement stores, Amazon, etc.) sell the filter. Look for Honeywell "type E" filters. From experience, Sunbeam "type D" filters also fit this humidifier. For the tank part, I am not aware of any retailer selling parts. You should contact the manufacturer to see if they sell parts.

Thanks hun

The rest was thrown away for recycling. I didn't have specific uses for the parts at the time and no place to store spare parts. But indeed, there are multiple parts that could be reused : heatsink, buttons, fasteners, connectors, etc. As for the motherboard, unfortunately, I don't think the effort/time required to make it useful is worth it. There are so many cheap and easy to use compute platforms nowadays.

You can't do that with this design of wheel. Most of the other videos out there show a different design. Though the videos that put an M6 bolt in the bottom hole would probably work and would be less destructive. It's a shame Ikea insist on putting those idiotic wheel on their chairs. A lot of their chairs a otherwise pretty good.

Indeed, the two op-amp in each NJM5532 are used to double the current capacity for driving the headphone. I reverse engineered the circuit after filming. You can see the details in the article associated with the video : dieselpowered.ca/2018/sabaj-pha1-teardown/

@@dieselpowered ah so each op amp has both it's internal channels parallel'd together to drive each ear. Lol so it's technically a baby dual mono. That's cool xx

The attenuator is used on the input of the headphone amplifier. It sits between a PC line out and the headphone amplifier input. It attenuates the line out signal, not the headphone amplifier output. You are right that it changes the input impedance of the headphone amplifier, and the output impedance of the PC sound card line out. But I don't see how it might change meaningfully the frequency response of the PC line out signal. With a 10k impedance, it is barely loading the signal amplifier on the PC sound card. We don't need to match impedance in this situation, we are between a very low impedance signal source and a very high impedance amplifier, so almost no current/power drawn. I haven't done a frequency response before/after, but there is no audible change in the signal quality. For my purpose, it is more than adequate :)

@@dieselpowered ah ok, that makes sense.

Great!

The water level never reaches the center of the hump. The filter sits in around 1/2 inch of water (1cm)

@@dieselpowered perfect, thanks very much!!

Is the water getting at the base of the filter? If there is water at the base of the filter, is the filter wet to the touch all the way to the top?

@@dieselpowered Thanks for your response. Very little water is getting there. The bottom of the filter is somewhat wet, but it’s not wet to the top. I didn’t see any dirt or junk anywhere. Washed the base to make sure it’s clean. Still not throwing moisture. Thanks for the help!

@@mansoorkhan4822 Is your filter new or has it been in use for a few days/weeks? If there is water at the bottom of the filter but the rest of the filter is dry, I see two explanations : the air is so dry that it immediately dries the filter or the filter has been in use for some time and it is filled with minerals, preventing the water from wicking to the top. If you have hard water (lots of minerals in water), the filter can lose its ability to wick water after just a few weeks (less than a month)

@@dieselpowered One day before it was maintaining the humidity at around 40%. Very next day this happened. I cleaned the unit, it didn’t help. So I replaced the filter with a new one. No improvement. Looks like the water flow to the filter side for some reason has become restricted. Dry weather doesn’t seems to be the problem, as the unit was working under dryer conditions before. By the way, same thing happened with my prior unit. But I used that for almost four years. I like the unit and it’s capacity to humidify bigger rooms. That’s why I bought it again. I will try to call Honeywell for help and keep you posted. Thanks so much, I really appreciate your help. Find your video very informative.

@@mansoorkhan4822 That is very strange. Did you move the humidifier before it stopped working? Your humidifier might not be level anymore? If there is a slope towards the water tanks, it could explain the symptoms you explained.

I'm not sure I understand what you are doing. Are you directly connecting the red (5V supply) to ground? This should not be done, as it shorts the 5V supply.

@@dieselpowered Sorry didn’t know the exact name for it but I have a 2.1mm x 5.5mm male plugged into the arduino and it has a red and black wire to hook into it. I hook the red wire to my 5v standby but no matter what I hook the ground to it sets off a red light on the power supply

@@daltonriggs861 Another viewer had a similar issue and his problem was that the grey wires were floating. I would suggest you connect all the black and grey wires together, then connect the ground wire from your plug to this black/grey ground. If it still turns red, you might want to make sure the power input in your Arduino is not broken/shorted

@@dieselpowered Connecting the floating grey wire fixed it, it now stays orange and will output the 5v. Thank you so much. I’m gonna try to use a stepper motor and a photoresistor to have the blinds automatically twist open in the morning/ close at night!

Did you figure this out. I'm in need to do this as well.

Grey and black can be connected together

@@dieselpowered --thanks for this--once I soldered the grey to the black, I stopped getting solid red lights (short)

Probably. Casters can be changed, just make sure the caster stem is the right dimensions.

Truly an atrocious design. The only reason I can think of why Ikea is keeping these locking wheels is that they were sued by someone who got injured by a chair moving away from them as they were sitting on it.

@@dieselpowered I'm planning to buy aftermarket casters to replace them altogether, and getting a upgraded caster at the same time as well.

I don't have access to an Xbox one, so I don't know how the power supply works. This video is about the Xbox 360 slim power supply. Good luck with your experiments on the Xbox one power supply. Let me know if it works with only 12V.

I believe the 5V powers on the power supply from standby mode. So when you hit the power on button from the XBOX or the controller it sends a signal to the 5V(red wire)and small blue wire to to power on the power supply "brick"

Thanks Dave. I only used it for low power applications and for short duration, so I never had a problem. The wiring from the power supply to the connector is the original wiring. So if you want to draw the total rated current, I would use equivalent wire gauge (or larger) as the original power supply.

Between this comment and what was said in the video, I feel as though I may have something of a unicorn anomaly Xbox 360 power brick because mine has an output of: // DC 175W // 12V - 14A // 5V - 1A // 5A higher than the unit in the video, 4A higher than yours.... Why would this be?? Either way, I came here looking for ideas to transform mine into an adjustable output DC PSU for random projects & bench testing after opening mine up to find it in excellent like new condition... One thing that I’ve never seen before, which I’m wondering if either of you would understand is that the 5V rating doesn’t JUST SAY “5V” the way the 12V rating reads simply as “12V” - instead it reads as “5Vsb” - any clue what the “sb” means???? Also, the enclosure you used was something I’ve never seen before, nor would even think to use... But it opened my mind up to it and i appreciate that!! I typically aim to repurpose as much of an old item as possible. For example - when modifying this particular device, my first goal would be to see if I can install the additional components DIRECTLY INTO the original AC/DC brick case. Therefore, the original components inside would be left as is while anything new would be positioned carefully around them and any HOLES needed would be made to look as “factory” as possible... If you have any reason why you decided AGAINST this method, I’d love to hear it (if you’re still checking comments 2 years later) Thanks!!!

Microsoft released multiple versions of the Xbox 360. The power supply in the the video is from an Xbox 360 Slim, a late addition to the Xbox 360 lineup. Each version has different power requirements, which explains the different Xbox 360 power supply output capacities. The "sb" in the "5Vsb" is probably for "standby". This is the power rail that is always active. As for modifying the original power supply enclosure, I can't really comment, I never opened it.

Your description of each wire is correct. When you plug the power supply in the wall without blue connected to red, the LED will be orange. After connecting blue and red, the LED will turn green and 12V will be enabled. Now, if you disconnect red and blue, the LED will turn red. This is probably considered a fault. The power supply will stay in this fault state (red LED) until you power it off (disconnect from the wall)

@@dieselpowered when I connect red and blue, it still turns red. Is there a fault with my unit itself? Just to clarify. I didn't remove them. They stay connected but turn red still.

@@ColinHuangRB Try connecting red and blue together before plugging the power supply in the wall

@@dieselpowered thanks for replying mate. Tried that too. turns red straight away

No, I haven't tried that

Hi Shawn. I fixed the problem by using a 9V linear regulator (LM7809) on the output of the PSU. I plan on doing a video and article about the fix when I get the time.

My wheels are from April 2018.

Great idea! I guess you used a machine screw (flat on the tip) to limit the friction with the axle. Using a wood screw or self-taping screw (pointy tip) would dig into the axle. On the long term I might be a little concerned about friction between the axle and the screw. Did you put a piece of plastic or add grease between the screw and the axle?

@@dieselpowered I used flat screws. Well, one screw at the moment as I just figured it out and have to buy some more screws tomorrow 🙂 The axle is immobilised that way unfortunately. Can you have a look if your axles are actually spinning in the housung freely? I have a feeling that the axles are not moving anyway. Only the plastic wheels are rotating freely on the axles.

​@@holynex I just checked my chair and you are right, the metal axle doesn't spin. The axle is fixed and the wheels turn on the axle, so friction between the screw and the axle won't be a problem.

@@dieselpowered Mystery solved! Haha. Cheers mate 👍😊

Buy rollerblade wheels for it.

Just make sure you can drill larger holes than those original ones. You would have to enlarge them from 10mm to 11mm.

Well, the design may require an American to sit on it, lol

@@jcgongavoe337 was that supposed to be funny? I could talk a lot of trash about people from your country but I’ll pass.

@@AMGF815 Because it's already happening for decades and that's how internet works

The weight of the chair is put on the top of the spring. The wheel and the axle are "floating". It works like the suspension in a car. If you put a lot of weight in a car, it will push on the suspension (spring) and will go lower to the ground. Now imagine you put a brake pad under the axle, connected to the body of the car, so that it touches the axle when there is no weight in the car. When there is no weight, the brake pad prevents the axle from turning. If you put weight in the car, the body will lower to the ground. Since the brake pad in connected to body, it will also go down, away from the axle, so the axle can spin free.

I can see how it could be useful if you have a very large space to humidify and you need to increase the relative humidity by a lot. Still, I find the lowest speed increases the humidity level very quickly. Also, I'm not sure the paper filter can wick water as fast as the fan can evaporate it at the fastest speed, maybe when the filter is brand new, but not after a few weeks of use when it starts filling up with minerals. Having to choose between getting a slower speed than is currently available and keeping the highest speed, I would take a slower speed any day.

Are you sure this can be done with this version of the Ikea casters? I don't think I see those 4 brake pads you are talking about in the casters presented in the video. In the other version of the Ikea casters, there are tabs that can easily be cut off (see th-cam.com/video/JOdhFJirkio/w-d-xo.html ). If it is really possible to easily cut off brake pads in this version of the casters, I would like to know more!

My wheel's were not identical to yours, they're probably a new design, but I think the idea will still work because it's the same mechanism. I made a TH-cam video so you can see in detail what I'm talking about: How to disable the safety brakes on Ikea desk chair caster wheels. th-cam.com/video/yXXeKRFScxk/w-d-xo.html What do you think?

Great video! The disassembly really helps understand where the four brake pads you are talking about are located. Unfortunately, the casters on my chair are totally different. The braking mechanism is probably similar, but the "brake pads" are completely hidden away, you would need to destroy a large part of the plastic around the axle to get to them.

@@capturewiz DieselPowered HI, what do you think of these? I can't find the break pads. drive.google.com/open?id=1UP5Gj8uo6MOY0tb2EirQPtn8U3zYOuKE

I don't know, haven't tested this use. I doubt it would be very effective at filtering cigarette smoke. The water wicking material is coarse and probably only filters large particles.

The batteries don't last very long. I never measured it, but probably around 1h. Each 140mm fan uses around 2W of power, so 4-5W for the two fans. I am not sure a single low RPM 200mm fan would consume much less power, you would have to verify the specifications. Also, you have to consider the static pressure of the fan. Larger diameter fans tend to have lower static pressures. When it is very windy outside, the fan needs to fight the pressure generated by the wind. If the outside pressure is high enough, the fan can stop spinning and the air comes in instead of going out. With the two 140mm fans I was using (cheap and low power), this would happen quite often when it was windy outside. I image it would be even worse with a low RPM 200mm fan, since it probably has a lower static pressure.

You need to wire them together before you plug the power brick

DieselPowered thanks for the help i forgot the grey wire that was the problem its working now great video btw.

Good observation. Unfortunately, I haven't found any good replacement filter. Even 3rd party filters that I found are quite expensive, flimsy and prone to mold growth. To improve the lifetime, I try to turn the filter upside down each time I fill the reservoir. A few time during the season, I will spray the filter with hydrogen peroxyde to slow down mold growth. On a side note, from what I understand, it's not only the filters that are made by Kaz, but also the humidifiers themselves. Kaz is the manufacturer/distributor and they use the Honeywell brand under license.

Thanks for those ideas. I did order one of these humidifiers, but only after I discovered what appears to a new source of replacement filters that, according to Amazon reviewers, are better than the Kaz filters. It's the BestAir HW14 filter. Here's the Amazon link (if YT lets it go through): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EZT38M

Thanks for the link

I found the BestAir D filter to be a very good replacement. Equivalent to the Honeywell E and Sunbeam D. It wicks a lot of water and keeps up with the fan even at higher speeds. I found that it lasts about twice as long as the oem filter. It also comes in a metallic mesh cover which helps to keep its shape nicely. The price is also quite a bit better than other products I've used. Sorry if I'm late to this party.

@@pnut91red Thanks for the information. I guess you are talking about the BestAir H75? I might try this filter. It is good to learn that Sunbeam type D and Honeywell type E are the same shape, it makes finding a filter easier.

Thanks! I'm glad it could help you.

You could use a boost converter to boost the 12V to 13.8V. You can find very cheap modules on eBay or AliExpress. Their output can be a bit noisy and I don't know if this can be a problem in your application.

Don't really fancy using booster they are noisy it will interference the radio thanks anyway.