Great tips, as usual. "Let your family know what you are doing and ask them not to disturb you." Probably the hardest thing in watch repair for me to achieve. A nice private quiet, well-lit room with a lockable door is one of the most important watch repair tools one can have. I hope to get one soon.
So true! I would imagine most people don’t have a dedicated room in their home. You just have to use what you got. Thanks for adding to the conversation my friend.
I have half of a bench (which is a door on it's side, but sturdy) in the garage, with 2 cars. I'm happy to have that, but do agree with the 'do not disturb' sign...
Very good video overall, but I especially appreciate your courage in raising the distinct possibility that the watch one purchases is most-likely another person's failure, screw-up or donor. I work on 19th Century PW and routinely find that pieces I purchase have been cherry-picked of a rare part, or have been assembled of marginal parts enough to pass the photo in the EBAY listing. While I am older than many, many other hobbyist watch-makers, I am sure a great number of your viewers are shiney-eyed hopeful-s who make un-warrented assumptions. Thanks again for watching over us.😊
Thanks for that Bruce but it doesn’t take any courage to say that because it actually pisses me off a little bit. People just starting off read these regurgitated comments, saying start with old pocket watch. They’re cheap and plentiful. This is coming from people who have no idea what you’re talking about. What people should be telling them is to start like they do in watchmaking school with an ETA 6497 or even better it’s clone the ST 36. Unfortunately, at the rate we’re going now the only elgin’s, Waltham‘s, or Hamilton movements available on eBay are going to be part movements.
@watchrepairtutorials Exactly right. The very, very first piece I ever serviced was an ETA 6497/8 in a hunter case. Its was an excellent runner and I used it exactly for that reason so that any failure of skill or technique could be immediately traced back to me and addressed. I probably have 50 movements from 1850 forwards to 1900 and have identified patterns of missing parts within particular marques and periods. I really like your "no-BS" approach. Your Honesty is one of the Huge gifts you are giving us Best Wishes.
Hey Alex! I’m also Alex. The phone picture tip is big. I make an album for each movement I work on, especially on my first run through. Also love the advice about the eBay non-running buys. So true! In a few months I will be able to devote myself full time to turning this hobby into possibly a full time passion. So excited! Thank you for all these videos.
Very good tips Alex. Pre-cleaning parts is key even if you have a machine. Proper fitting screwdrivers too. Another tip : If you are getting frustrated and/or aggravated, stop and put it aside for another day.
I just bought some really cheap basic tools and I'm really excited for when they deliver. It's going to be my first peek at watch repair. You're tips have already helped me figure out how to begin. Thanks!
Well, like I tell everyone you should pick yourself up an ST 36 movement practice on, not 100 year old vintage pocket watch with no chance of it being repaired and familiarize yourself with the way a watch should run. This way you become familiar with the proper operation before you start looking at things that actually need to be corrected. Good luck my friend.
Hi Alex, Again a great video. I start checking the balance spinning freely and disassemble it again. Than comes the barrel, train of wheels, keyless works, pallet fork and balance again. The order doesn't matter so much I guess as long as you check all "function groups" seperatly. Your last tip is probably the best one for me as a hobby watchmaker. Have fun!😁
I really appreciate it. I’ve been slowly building up my knowledge base before diving in. These tips are giving me more confidence that I can do this. I’m pretty excited.
Man, that’s great to hear. That is exactly why I made this video if you start like I recommend on a new ST 36 instead of 100 year old pocket watch, he will be much better off.
Simply awesome... You are the master watch maker we all would like by our side when trying our hand at this marvelous hobby. And, by the way, you have a gift for explaining in a clear, calm, but never boring way 👌
I'm new and have done some of the more complicated jobs on a watch with great success like taking kinks out of hair springs, installing new jewels and hairsprings and honestly I love the challenge and bringing life back to the pieces 😀
Great tips Alex. Another tip if I may add is that if this is new movement to you after removing a part is to put the screws back in where it came from.
Hey Alex, I just wanted to drop a line to you to say your tutorials are beyond awesome. I was a cop for thirty years and I took up watch repair after a watch store ruined two of my watches. It’s a great passive hobby that I am making happy hour cash! I have been watching Mark Lovick from the UK for years who is an awesome horologist and teacher. But I discovered your videos a couple of weeks ago and I immediately took note of your specific perfectionism when it comes to the very specific parameters of the field. I have learned so many new ways of perfecting the ways I do watch repair in a very short time by watching your tutorials. Thank you so much for expanding my expertise and knowledge.
Matt, Thank you for making my day brother. Hearing stories from anyone who I have been able to touch, even if it only a slight improvement is what gives me the greatest pleasure. It’s why I do what I do. So thank you for that brother and for your service to your community as well. Alex
@@watchrepairtutorials As soon as I received the kindle file I read it immediately. I put it to use today when I was getting a terrible reading on the timing after servicing a BULOVA 23 Jewel. I adjusted the stud and it corrected the issue immediately. Thanks again Alex.
I found out the hard way not to wash the springs with the rest of the parts. Had a click spring go missing. Fortunately, I found it in one of the wash jars, with a magnet. Since then, I leave those in the parts tray and wash everything else. Photos and videos are very helpful, of course. I keep the parts grouped in the trays and take a photo of each tray compartment. That has helped me get the parts grouped back together after washing.
@@watchrepairtutorials Indeed! I got hooked on watchmaking from Wrist Watch revival. Marshal does a great job of explaining how the mechanism works, but doesn't always give enough information into the finer details of the craft. Your videos totally fill in these blanks. I'm a life-long gearhead, and am fascinated with all things mechanical. I've always been a fan of mechanical watches as well. I'm ready to take the dive!
Great video as always - succinct and to the point. The 20th tip is key and I’d add a 20b as an addendum, which you mentioned in other videos: Don’t start this journey by repairing non-runners. Start with ones that work so you can understand the way things should be. Sure it can suck if you “break” a movement that used to work well. But it’s far more demoralizing if you keep working on watches and go nowhere, and months later you just have non-runners strewn across your desk. Have a friend who did just that and he seems to be giving up on the hobby sadly.
No, you’re absolutely right about not starting on or not running unless you just want to test your ability to take a movement apart and put it back together. To see if you could handle the small parts well, I hate to see is a classic American pocket watch movement butchered on someone’s first attempt. They don’t make those anymore and sooner or later the supplies are gonna dry up to nothing.
@@watchrepairtutorials That’s an excellent point and I 100% agree. What I did was start with cheap Chinese (legal) clones of common ETA movements like the 6497, 2824, 2892, 7750… You learn about classic movement architectures and who cares if you mess it up? But I’ve never had anybody actually advise me to take that path. I even asked a local watchmaker (in Waltham!) for tips and said I was starting with Chinese movements and he said “nah, you should start on Waltham pocket watches…” Edit: Mark Lovick does actually use a lot of cheap Seagull movements in his courses. He hasn’t does his automatic one yet but wouldn’t be surprised if he uses clones of the 2824 and 2892 if (when?) he releases that. Good example to set IMO.
@@seb_617 well you’re smarter than most then because I hate to see people start on a piece of American history. The chances of somebody fixing €100 pocket watch on the first attempt is practically zero and what usually ends up happening is that they turn around and sell it as a non-runner on eBay because they screwed something up. at the rate we’re going now in five years they will be nothing but non-runners on eBay. That doesn’t even take into account the cost factor. With the limited parts available for 100 year old pocket watches people end up buying a second one to get parts from. So instead of just buying a $35 ST 36 the end up spending over $100 and still can’t fix it. It’s just a shame.
@@watchrepairtutorials 100%! Speaking of American history - do you happen to know of a good book on the history of American watchmaking? Or even just the Waltham Watch Company. I can’t find anything recent. Even the official WWC archives deposited at Harvard only go to the 1920s. I want to know in particular why these iconic companies went bankrupt (while the Swiss survived, if not unscathed). All I have on that is kind of hearsay/theories but no rigorous analysis.
@@seb_617 my understanding is that after the fair of 1876, the founders of Longines came to the US to study what was going on in the American factories. They use this information to restructure the entire Swiss watchmaking industry out of fear, that if something did change the entire countries future was at Jeopardy. They use this information to replicate what we were already doing in our factories. Fast forward to WWII., the American factories stopped producing consumer goods to concentrate fully on supplying the military with timekeeping pieces. During this time period. Because the swiss were neutral, they were able to come in and start picking up pieces of the consumer market share unopposed. Now the American factories had to try to restore their market share, but because of the huge expense of their factories, they couldn’t maintain business as usual, and slowly started closing with the last one being Hamilton, which was bought out by the Swatch group. No, I don’t know of a specific book on American watch history, but I do have a PDF copy of this 300 page book that is essentially the report that was made by the guys from Longine on how the factories in America operated. It literally details out the entire operation, including the equipment that was used in great detail. It is an interesting read. If you send me an email to alex@watchrepairtutorials.com. I’ll send you a link to my Google Drive where you can download it.
Another great video! Your videos have been invaluable in getting started in the hobby. I would love a video on crystal installation though. I bought a vintage Seiko 7005-8062 where it looks like the movement comes out the front, but I'm afraid to take out the crystal since I don't have the tools to put it back in. It's a maze of expensive presses and dies of different prices and qualities and it's hard to find good information on what exactly I need. Keep up the good work!
that’s interesting that you mention that because I’m actually writing the lesson for the watchmaking course all about cases, including front loaders, as well as the second part lesson three, which is about watch crystals. I’ll be posting a video on crystals I just don’t know when yet as most of my time is spent working on my watch making course
@@watchrepairtutorials Only tip I would add is to install train of wheels and train bridge and make sure it spins free before assembling barrel bridge and installing pallet fork with final instillation being balance assembly.
Hi Alex! Thank you for the another great tips. These days I am trying to service old watches. I understand an amplitude is one of the most important figures that shows if the cleaning process was perfect. I found that dish soap+distilled water+IPA rinsing is still nice,(regarding its high accessibility) but in most times it requires multiple manual brushing while cleaning 'old' watches. And even after those manual brushing, rusts or some kind of pollution seems to remain after drying. I went to my domestic watchmaker to ask help, and found the watchmakers use 'hexane' for cleaning&rinsing. What I am curious is, 1. Does hexane has clearly better performance in watch cleaning? Is it worth hardly purchasing via domestic watchmakers?(was not able to buy it from the internet) 2. Are there any additional hazards(comparing to IPA) I have to take into account while using hexane for watch cleaning? IPA seems to be well used in any kind of field that needs disinfection(so there was plenty of info about its hazardness), but I cannot find fields that use hexane a lot.. That's why it was hard for me to find additional information. I'll appreciate if you can help me just a little bit. Thanks for your help in advance!
Hello my friend, I have a video coming out in a couple days where I’m going to answer your question in depth because a lot of people have been asking me about this same type of issue. I think you be very happy with the answer but you’re gonna have to wait a couple days until the video comes out
Thanks for your reply! I did not know that you left an answer for me. Do you mean the latest video titled 'When to service the watch?' I've watched it right away but cannot find information about hexane. Although I think it is another great tips..
Apologies if this is a dumb question, but regarding waiting 24h post lubrication and assembly to test timekeeping - I'm assuming if one made any additional adjustments to the balance you wouldn't need to wait an additional 24h. But you would if you had to re-lubricate the watch?
I forgot to mention nice tips! some very basic but some that I dont finde in other YT videos, definatly going to implement them (like waiting 24h before regulating)
Yep that one’s really important if you don’t know it. All you have to do is take a reading at the first full wind let it run 24 hours wind it up again and see what is reads.
Yikes! This video gave me a bit of anxiety because I have purchased a plethora of non runners and I'm just thinking that maybe that was a massive mistake on my part but I'm up to the challenge of identifying the problem and hopefully getting a few of these to tick. Lot of the watches I purchased are very small vintage ladies watches. I'm going to take your advice and just have fun with it. I'm eager to learn, just wish I would have found this channel prior to taking up watches as a hobby!
It totally depends on what you’re using them for. A pin vice for sizing stems can be what ever you want. A couple small generic ones are fine. There’s also specialty vices made for holding barrel arbors. I don’t know of anybody other than Bergeron that makes those, but you can check for with Horetec. There’s also specialty vices for holding pallet forks, balance timing screws, and hairspring stud screws
Thank you. I made this for the person who may not jump in because they have some questions that are preventing them from even working on the first watch. I don’t know maybe it’ll help someone.
I felt that tip about keeping my workbench clear but ADHD makes it hard. Tonight I was reassembling a ladies watch and as I was bringing the click spring out of the container it brushed the lid and I lost it from my tweezers. I took everything off my watchmaker's bench, vacuumed the bench in the floor with my cordless dustbuster parts catcher, and was about to order another movement when I saw my click spring... Sitting on top of the container it had been in. 😁🙄
Depends on what you are looking for. Most modern calibers have tax sheets available just by searching Google for caliber number tech sheet. Cousins UK has a large database as well.
The Elma branded one go for just under 300. I’ve also seen Chinese versions that go for about 6070 bucks. Can’t speak to how affective they are or you can get one of the little blue boxes off Amazon for about 10 bucks and they work as I demonstrated in my video about how magnetism affects watch movements.
@@watchrepairtutorials Is there a specific website that usually has it? Unfortunately still having trouble finding it. Looking for the Rolex 3285 or Patek 315/190 of the calatrava 5107
Great tips, as usual.
"Let your family know what you are doing and ask them not to disturb you." Probably the hardest thing in watch repair for me to achieve. A nice private quiet, well-lit room with a lockable door is one of the most important watch repair tools one can have. I hope to get one soon.
So true! I would imagine most people don’t have a dedicated room in their home. You just have to use what you got. Thanks for adding to the conversation my friend.
I have half of a bench (which is a door on it's side, but sturdy) in the garage, with 2 cars. I'm happy to have that, but do agree with the 'do not disturb' sign...
Very good video overall, but I especially appreciate your courage in raising the distinct possibility that the watch one purchases is most-likely another person's failure, screw-up or donor. I work on 19th Century PW and routinely find that pieces I purchase have been cherry-picked of a rare part, or have been assembled of marginal parts enough to pass the photo in the EBAY listing. While I am older than many, many other hobbyist watch-makers, I am sure a great number of your viewers are shiney-eyed hopeful-s who make un-warrented assumptions. Thanks again for watching over us.😊
Thanks for that Bruce but it doesn’t take any courage to say that because it actually pisses me off a little bit. People just starting off read these regurgitated comments, saying start with old pocket watch. They’re cheap and plentiful. This is coming from people who have no idea what you’re talking about. What people should be telling them is to start like they do in watchmaking school with an ETA 6497 or even better it’s clone the ST 36.
Unfortunately, at the rate we’re going now the only elgin’s, Waltham‘s, or Hamilton movements available on eBay are going to be part movements.
@watchrepairtutorials Exactly right. The very, very first piece I ever serviced was an ETA 6497/8 in a hunter case. Its was an excellent runner and I used it exactly for that reason so that any failure of skill or technique could be immediately traced back to me and addressed. I probably have 50 movements from 1850 forwards to 1900 and have identified patterns of missing parts within particular marques and periods. I really like your "no-BS" approach. Your Honesty is one of the Huge gifts you are giving us Best Wishes.
Hey Alex! I’m also Alex. The phone picture tip is big. I make an album for each movement I work on, especially on my first run through. Also love the advice about the eBay non-running buys. So true!
In a few months I will be able to devote myself full time to turning this hobby into possibly a full time passion. So excited! Thank you for all these videos.
Hey Alex,
Appreciate you watching what I do.
-Alex
Very good tips Alex. Pre-cleaning parts is key even if you have a machine. Proper fitting screwdrivers too. Another tip : If you are getting frustrated and/or aggravated, stop and put it aside for another day.
That is true for for so many things. Thanks for adding.
That's the best advice I can think of! For watch work and so many other things
Thanks for this Alex, all makes sense. Missed you being around here.
My pleasure! I have about four different videos in different stages that I’ll be dropping pretty soon. Thanks as always.
Essential tips for a begginner. Thank you Alex!
Sometimes people spend too much time trying to perfect their aim and never pull the trigger. Maybe this will help get someone started.
I just bought some really cheap basic tools and I'm really excited for when they deliver. It's going to be my first peek at watch repair. You're tips have already helped me figure out how to begin. Thanks!
Well, like I tell everyone you should pick yourself up an ST 36 movement practice on, not 100 year old vintage pocket watch with no chance of it being repaired and familiarize yourself with the way a watch should run. This way you become familiar with the proper operation before you start looking at things that actually need to be corrected. Good luck my friend.
@@watchrepairtutorials The St 36 movement is the one Seagull uses correct? I just want to make sure I've found the right movement.
@@introvertswag6494
You are correct
Hi Alex, Again a great video. I start checking the balance spinning freely and disassemble it again. Than comes the barrel, train of wheels, keyless works, pallet fork and balance again. The order doesn't matter so much I guess as long as you check all "function groups" seperatly. Your last tip is probably the best one for me as a hobby watchmaker. Have fun!😁
You got that right brother!
You are so helpful to us newer watchmakers. I have used almost all your tips. I enjoy your content so much! Thank brother.
I appreciate that my friend. Thank you.
I really appreciate it. I’ve been slowly building up my knowledge base before diving in. These tips are giving me more confidence that I can do this. I’m pretty excited.
Man, that’s great to hear. That is exactly why I made this video if you start like I recommend on a new ST 36 instead of 100 year old pocket watch, he will be much better off.
Thanks, Alex. Always a pleasure.
Maybe this will help motivate some people to get started who are apprehensive.
Taking pics is an absolute lifesaver !
That might be the number one tip.👍
Simply awesome... You are the master watch maker we all would like by our side when trying our hand at this marvelous hobby. And, by the way, you have a gift for explaining in a clear, calm, but never boring way 👌
I am by your side brother. Tell me how I can help you. Thank you for the kind words.
I'm new and have done some of the more complicated jobs on a watch with great success like taking kinks out of hair springs, installing new jewels and hairsprings and honestly I love the challenge and bringing life back to the pieces 😀
God bless you. You sound like a natural
Perls of wisdom.. Thank you Alex
Gold Nuggets my man, Gold Nuggets.
Great tips Alex. Another tip if I may add is that if this is new movement to you after removing a part is to put the screws back in where it came from.
Sure, that might be helpful for some people in the beginning. Thanks Paul.
Nice collection of great tips! Ta Alex!!
Hey Boyd, maybe a little basic for you. Thanks buddy
Hey Alex, I just wanted to drop a line to you to say your tutorials are beyond awesome. I was a cop for thirty years and I took up watch repair after a watch store ruined two of my watches. It’s a great passive hobby that I am making happy hour cash! I have been watching Mark Lovick from the UK for years who is an awesome horologist and teacher. But I discovered your videos a couple of weeks ago and I immediately took note of your specific perfectionism when it comes to the very specific parameters of the field. I have learned so many new ways of perfecting the ways I do watch repair in a very short time by watching your tutorials. Thank you so much for expanding my expertise and knowledge.
Matt,
Thank you for making my day brother. Hearing stories from anyone who I have been able to touch, even if it only a slight improvement is what gives me the greatest pleasure. It’s why I do what I do.
So thank you for that brother and for your service to your community as well.
Alex
@@watchrepairtutorials
Thanks again Alex. By the way I just purchased your book adjusting amplitudes.
@@Matthd56 much thanks my friend. I hope it helps.
@@watchrepairtutorials
As soon as I received the kindle file I read it immediately. I put it to use today when I was getting a terrible reading on the timing after servicing a BULOVA 23 Jewel. I adjusted the stud and it corrected the issue immediately. Thanks again Alex.
@@Matthd56 that’s so awesome. Thanks Dave
I found out the hard way not to wash the springs with the rest of the parts. Had a click spring go missing. Fortunately, I found it in one of the wash jars, with a magnet. Since then, I leave those in the parts tray and wash everything else. Photos and videos are very helpful, of course. I keep the parts grouped in the trays and take a photo of each tray compartment. That has helped me get the parts grouped back together after washing.
Sounds like you have learned some lessons. Thanks for verifying
Looking forward to your book. Just picked it up.
Thanks my friend
Thanks for the great tips and tricks keep up the great job
Thank you William
Too hot to go outside and do anything today. So happy Alex has dropped another lesson for us❤
I am in NC and it’s pretty toasty here.
Thank you! This is sage advise indeed.
You are so welcome Tom. These are the type of things people learning watch repair will never hear in any other video but need to be heard.
@@watchrepairtutorials Indeed! I got hooked on watchmaking from Wrist Watch revival. Marshal does a great job of explaining how the mechanism works, but doesn't always give enough information into the finer details of the craft. Your videos totally fill in these blanks. I'm a life-long gearhead, and am fascinated with all things mechanical. I've always been a fan of mechanical watches as well. I'm ready to take the dive!
Great video as always - succinct and to the point. The 20th tip is key and I’d add a 20b as an addendum, which you mentioned in other videos: Don’t start this journey by repairing non-runners. Start with ones that work so you can understand the way things should be. Sure it can suck if you “break” a movement that used to work well. But it’s far more demoralizing if you keep working on watches and go nowhere, and months later you just have non-runners strewn across your desk. Have a friend who did just that and he seems to be giving up on the hobby sadly.
No, you’re absolutely right about not starting on or not running unless you just want to test your ability to take a movement apart and put it back together. To see if you could handle the small parts well, I hate to see is a classic American pocket watch movement butchered on someone’s first attempt. They don’t make those anymore and sooner or later the supplies are gonna dry up to nothing.
@@watchrepairtutorials That’s an excellent point and I 100% agree. What I did was start with cheap Chinese (legal) clones of common ETA movements like the 6497, 2824, 2892, 7750… You learn about classic movement architectures and who cares if you mess it up? But I’ve never had anybody actually advise me to take that path. I even asked a local watchmaker (in Waltham!) for tips and said I was starting with Chinese movements and he said “nah, you should start on Waltham pocket watches…”
Edit: Mark Lovick does actually use a lot of cheap Seagull movements in his courses. He hasn’t does his automatic one yet but wouldn’t be surprised if he uses clones of the 2824 and 2892 if (when?) he releases that. Good example to set IMO.
@@seb_617 well you’re smarter than most then because I hate to see people start on a piece of American history. The chances of somebody fixing €100 pocket watch on the first attempt is practically zero and what usually ends up happening is that they turn around and sell it as a non-runner on eBay because they screwed something up. at the rate we’re going now in five years they will be nothing but non-runners on eBay. That doesn’t even take into account the cost factor. With the limited parts available for 100 year old pocket watches people end up buying a second one to get parts from. So instead of just buying a $35 ST 36 the end up spending over $100 and still can’t fix it. It’s just a shame.
@@watchrepairtutorials 100%!
Speaking of American history - do you happen to know of a good book on the history of American watchmaking? Or even just the Waltham Watch Company. I can’t find anything recent. Even the official WWC archives deposited at Harvard only go to the 1920s. I want to know in particular why these iconic companies went bankrupt (while the Swiss survived, if not unscathed). All I have on that is kind of hearsay/theories but no rigorous analysis.
@@seb_617 my understanding is that after the fair of 1876, the founders of Longines came to the US to study what was going on in the American factories. They use this information to restructure the entire Swiss watchmaking industry out of fear, that if something did change the entire countries future was at Jeopardy. They use this information to replicate what we were already doing in our factories. Fast forward to WWII., the American factories stopped producing consumer goods to concentrate fully on supplying the military with timekeeping pieces. During this time period. Because the swiss were neutral, they were able to come in and start picking up pieces of the consumer market share unopposed. Now the American factories had to try to restore their market share, but because of the huge expense of their factories, they couldn’t maintain business as usual, and slowly started closing with the last one being Hamilton, which was bought out by the Swatch group.
No, I don’t know of a specific book on American watch history, but I do have a PDF copy of this 300 page book that is essentially the report that was made by the guys from Longine on how the factories in America operated. It literally details out the entire operation, including the equipment that was used in great detail. It is an interesting read. If you send me an email to alex@watchrepairtutorials.com. I’ll send you a link to my Google Drive where you can download it.
Thanks for the video. Very informative as always. By the way I bought your book (Amazon). Congrats and hope more could be coming...
Appreciate you brother
Another great video! Your videos have been invaluable in getting started in the hobby. I would love a video on crystal installation though. I bought a vintage Seiko 7005-8062 where it looks like the movement comes out the front, but I'm afraid to take out the crystal since I don't have the tools to put it back in. It's a maze of expensive presses and dies of different prices and qualities and it's hard to find good information on what exactly I need. Keep up the good work!
that’s interesting that you mention that because I’m actually writing the lesson for the watchmaking course all about cases, including front loaders, as well as the second part lesson three, which is about watch crystals.
I’ll be posting a video on crystals I just don’t know when yet as most of my time is spent working on my watch making course
Great informative video 👌🏻👍🏻🏴
Thanks 👍 my friend
fantastic video !!!!! great advice !!!!!
Thanks so much!
@@watchrepairtutorials Only tip I would add is to install train of wheels and train bridge and make sure it spins free before assembling barrel bridge and installing pallet fork with final instillation being balance assembly.
Hi Alex! Thank you for the another great tips.
These days I am trying to service old watches. I understand an amplitude is one of the most important figures that shows if the cleaning process was perfect.
I found that dish soap+distilled water+IPA rinsing is still nice,(regarding its high accessibility) but in most times it requires multiple manual brushing while cleaning 'old' watches. And even after those manual brushing, rusts or some kind of pollution seems to remain after drying. I went to my domestic watchmaker to ask help, and found the watchmakers use 'hexane' for cleaning&rinsing. What I am curious is,
1. Does hexane has clearly better performance in watch cleaning? Is it worth hardly purchasing via domestic watchmakers?(was not able to buy it from the internet)
2. Are there any additional hazards(comparing to IPA) I have to take into account while using hexane for watch cleaning? IPA seems to be well used in any kind of field that needs disinfection(so there was plenty of info about its hazardness), but I cannot find fields that use hexane a lot.. That's why it was hard for me to find additional information. I'll appreciate if you can help me just a little bit.
Thanks for your help in advance!
Hello my friend, I have a video coming out in a couple days where I’m going to answer your question in depth because a lot of people have been asking me about this same type of issue. I think you be very happy with the answer but you’re gonna have to wait a couple days until the video comes out
Thanks for your reply! I did not know that you left an answer for me. Do you mean the latest video titled 'When to service the watch?' I've watched it right away but cannot find information about hexane. Although I think it is another great tips..
I bought your book now, thanks.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you for this video
My pleasure.
Really good video wish I had this a few months ago
Thanks Tim
Apologies if this is a dumb question, but regarding waiting 24h post lubrication and assembly to test timekeeping - I'm assuming if one made any additional adjustments to the balance you wouldn't need to wait an additional 24h. But you would if you had to re-lubricate the watch?
Correct.
Great advice my friend.
My hope is that this will get some people moving that are hesitating, because of some internal fear or apprehension they may have.
I forgot to mention nice tips! some very basic but some that I dont finde in other YT videos, definatly going to implement them (like waiting 24h before regulating)
Yep that one’s really important if you don’t know it. All you have to do is take a reading at the first full wind let it run 24 hours wind it up again and see what is reads.
OK...love your loupe. Where did you find it and are they still available?😮
Thank you, but that’s not me and that’s not my loupe.
Thanks
You are a gentleman and a scholar. Thanks for a bunch.
Yikes! This video gave me a bit of anxiety because I have purchased a plethora of non runners and I'm just thinking that maybe that was a massive mistake on my part but I'm up to the challenge of identifying the problem and hopefully getting a few of these to tick. Lot of the watches I purchased are very small vintage ladies watches. I'm going to take your advice and just have fun with it. I'm eager to learn, just wish I would have found this channel prior to taking up watches as a hobby!
Don't worry, vintage ladies watches can be a little tricky, but they are also super interesting to work on!
Hi Alex, what size pin vices we should get and what brands besides Bergeon? Thanks
It totally depends on what you’re using them for.
A pin vice for sizing stems can be what ever you want. A couple small generic ones are fine.
There’s also specialty vices made for holding barrel arbors. I don’t know of anybody other than Bergeron that makes those, but you can check for with Horetec.
There’s also specialty vices for holding pallet forks, balance timing screws, and hairspring stud screws
@@watchrepairtutorials thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you for your support.
Alex
More great information.
Thank you. I made this for the person who may not jump in because they have some questions that are preventing them from even working on the first watch. I don’t know maybe it’ll help someone.
tnx for video :D, I like tumbnail (time detail)
That’s interesting. Is that what caught your eye ?
@@watchrepairtutorials it was title, but small clock icon help me make "make decision" to click on your video (I was in a hurry)
@@MG-mb6mj I really appreciate your feedback. I think I’ll start using it more.
great advice
Thank you my friend
I felt that tip about keeping my workbench clear but ADHD makes it hard. Tonight I was reassembling a ladies watch and as I was bringing the click spring out of the container it brushed the lid and I lost it from my tweezers.
I took everything off my watchmaker's bench, vacuumed the bench in the floor with my cordless dustbuster parts catcher, and was about to order another movement when I saw my click spring...
Sitting on top of the container it had been in. 😁🙄
Lol. Isn’t it always that way?
I will put this on poster and hang it in front of work bench :) Thnx! Great tips!
You like zee picture?
That last tip is very important.
It sure is. When it stops being fun, what’s the point?
Hi Alex, where’s the best place to find watch movement tech sheet?
Depends on what you are looking for. Most modern calibers have tax sheets available just by searching Google for caliber number tech sheet. Cousins UK has a large database as well.
Thank you so much, just getting into tinkering with watches, your you tube videos are the best, keep up the great job!
@@johnsoos1196 Good luck, John. Let me know if there’s something I can do to help. Alex.
How much does one of those de-mag machines go for?
The Elma branded one go for just under 300. I’ve also seen Chinese versions that go for about 6070 bucks. Can’t speak to how affective they are or you can get one of the little blue boxes off Amazon for about 10 bucks and they work as I demonstrated in my video about how magnetism affects watch movements.
Where can one find the tech sheets for these movements?
Almost everything’s available just by googling the movement number plus tech sheet. Was there anything specific you were looking for?
@@watchrepairtutorials Is there a specific website that usually has it? Unfortunately still having trouble finding it. Looking for the Rolex 3285 or Patek 315/190 of the calatrava 5107
@@garshkilla sorry not for those calibers unless you have an account with the manufacturers.
@@watchrepairtutorials aah ok, thank you
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if you have a 1970's shag rug - get rid of it because finding small springs is a nightmare.
man, thats # 21 for sure. 😂