I droped in a k&n filter and also drilled out the front grill holes. It made a difference in iat’s both in traffic and cruising and no water issues at all. My car is daily driving and been driven thru some good rain storms and not a single issue with water getting into the inlet.
Thumbs up simply for a solid video description lmao. Thanks for the info tho! I have longtubes and Lund flex fuel, stock intake. Tbh IAT temps always are within 10 degrees of ambient, everyone always asks why I don’t have a CAI, simply don’t need it. 🤷🏼♂️
Alex thanks as always. Big thumbs up what I have learned with my 18 Whipple is not to stomp it when IAT's are high. I have the stock Whipple CAI open system. It is open at the top and the bottom. Plus holes around the tube, lots of heat entrainment possible. I took my hoodliner off and am working on modifying my cooling vents in the hood and the rear hoodseal to try and get the heat out and cooler air in.. without changing out the entire Cai for a lided unit. If you get fired Cletus is looking for a canyon car tuner. Just got to make it fly..
@@YDBT4LIFE Alex, any update on this? I'm looking at CAIs for my 18 GT currently. Great info. Everyone seems to go JLT, but great point about the IAT. If the Steeda MAF signal is wonky, I may stick with the stock for now and just add a tune in the short term.
@@YDBT4LIFE Thanks, man. Will likely be going with your flex tune, as I daily it and only have reliable E85 close to home. Will probably save headers, x-pipe, CAI for next year.
Best CAI to stay close to stock and get slightly more air is the Injen Evolution. I used it when I had my 2016 GT and loved it. With just the intake and a tune I ran 412 HP and 387 TQ to wheels. Those where literally the only mods I had. Not much of the increase was from the intake as usual but the intake temperatures were 3-4 degrees above ambient with the Injen and 5-7 with stock while moving. They would creep up when in traffic but nothing like my GT350 does. I hit 151 degrees today with an ambient temperature of 82 degrees at idle. That’s what happens with open element intakes. And I’ve never seen anything less than 5 degrees above ambient in the 350 except in a cold winter morning with temperatures around 30 degrees
This video would have saved me a headache of trying a cold Air. Dealing with high IATs then swapping back to the stock box for what felt like an improvement in comparison 👍
I put an Injen CAI on my 2015. Doesn't require a tune so you're using the factory MAF sensor, closed box design and it works. Ran 2/10ths quicker 1/4 mile in 2000ft worse density altitude. Keeps those air intake temps down as well. I put a little foam tape where the Injen meets the factory air inlet since it doesn't have the rubber molding like the factory intake and my intake air temps are about 6-7 degrees above ambient.
Hi vxer, I'll be getting the same filter soon, it's good to hear it works properly. What kind of foam tape did you install? I guess it must be temp/humidity resistant?
@@dennylazzari8175 I found some foam tape at O'Reillys Auto. I used the thin stuff (maybe 1/8" thick). Not a perfect seal like the rubber factory seal, but better than nothing. Can't remember the name brand.
Airaid design is the best then. It’s enclosed and works exactly like the stock design but you get more air. And it also still uses the ram air induction from the grille.
Most “non tune” cold air intakes for the new mustang make very little difference on hp for the new 18+ mustang. The difference is the restrictor in the air intake with a tune. The Roush for the 18+ has the restrictor that can be removed. With the restrictor it is very similar to stock with out it, it needs a tune and takes more air in. Simple. It’s not like cars from the year 1999. Stock parts are very good for high performance cars. Ford did a lot to squeeze as much power as they could out of the 18+ mustangs. So with that being said. The best intake in my opinion is the Roush Cold air intake for the 2018+ mustang GT which is very similarly designed to the stock intake with a shield and cover blocking the hot air out.
I have a 2018 5.0. A few years ago I replaced the stock intake with a roush cold air intake which came with a tune. It could run with or without a tune. There was nobody here who could install the roush tune so I’m running it without a tune. The throttle response is instant. Without the roush intake there is a little bit of a lag when I floor the gas pedal. Is the car faster, maybe not but it is quicker.
Great video, been going back and forth weather to get a CAI or not on my 2020 GT, all I have is a SR X-pipe. Will be getting a tune in the next month or so
If you are looking for a little more noise without causing any loss of performance I highly recommend the airaid intake modular tube , it works great, just leave the original box and that is all, no problems, your not going to make any extra HP but also not going to lose any but you can make more throdle noise
I admit my first mod for my 11 GT was a K&N Typhoon CAI. Thought it looked awesome in the engine bay. I went to a Dyno Day at a local tuner and he said the metal air tube completely defeats the purpose because it absorbs the engine heat and feeds hot air in. Needless to say, I ditched the K&N and went back to the stock Airbox and my IATs are lower. Thanks for your honest opinions, love the channel!
I bought mine with a k&n Blackhawk and idk what’s wrong with it but it always made the car struggle after 6.3k rpm so I got the stock air box and now I’m waiting for a pmas
I've been telling people this for 2 years. The aftermarket CAI kits are senseless in a NA car. If the CA box doesn't seal it from the engine compartment completely, your defeating the purpose of having one to begin with.
Rouch has the best one I have seen so far it actually takes air in from the front just like the stock, Steeda Makes a great one too that looks stock.....
I kept my factory airbox on my '13 GT with a K&N panel and just replaced the tubing for an Airaid one. Works well! I try to explain this to so many. Every expensive "CAI" I had in the past on previous cars always worsened performance due to high IAT numbers. In the fender or in the engine bay "shielded off," it didn't really matter.
this is 100% true. My pmas in traffic or low speeds below 40mph is heat soak galore. Yes once im rolling for several seconds it hauls and I have a 2015 which doesnt have the better intake then the 18's+.
I always scratch my head when I see the air filter hanging in the engine bay, drawing in hot engine bay air. The factory unit is just fine for mild mods, jmo.
I’m from az. Do you think it was worth the purchase? I’m debating if I should get a pmas but due to the hot temps in THR summer I’m not sure if my car would like it
I had a steeda cold air on my S197 coyote but after researching about cold air aftermarket intakes ( this video included) it only gains about 8 hp advantage over the factory cold air if that. I reinstalled the factory cold air and now prefer how it looks even. It kind of makes it more of a sleeper, LOL, if you can call it that anyway. I've thought about the K&N modular intake tube but the price just makes me want to cringe.
Im installing mine tomorrow. I just uploaded my 93 Lund tune to my SCTx4. Not really expecting too much but I got a used system for $200 so I said fuggit lol
What do you think about the power packs that ford created for the 15-17 that’s open? Did they f it up? What your saying makes perfect sense, so I wonder why ford made these the way they did.
So Steeda closed lid..if not stock. That's what I have and honestly, the IAT's still creep. Far better the any open lid I have used though. I have experienced the MAF signal issues a little. Dakota said my car is 2-3% lean and the signal is as good as it's gonna get beyond OEM. I am curious about the revised version. Alex, the truth hurts but you put it out there for us. Good vid man.
I heard Steeda close air box for mustang have maf signal issues. I heard they are working on revision, because they have problems with e85 flex tubes. I have a 2020 mustang gt. I want the e85 Flex Tune
Since my "application" is a gen1 2013 coyote with minor mods, what I get from this is....bigger diameter intake tube coupled with the stock air box would probably be best - possibly increase airflow (especially with a better filter) and keep IATs down. Got it, I think?
That's a great video Alex. Ford is now using LS1 aftermarket technology from 1998. The stock coyote housing is just like the aftermarket "whisper lid" that we used to get for Ls1 cars F bodies back in the day and we would do the "free ram air" mod that is now stock on the mustang. That alone was worth 15 rwhp on an LS1 car. This video gave me flashbacks of the LS1 aftermarket lid and free ram air mod. It looks just like the ls1 aftermarket induction except from the side.
Had a well known Mustang shop advise me against it in the mid 90s. Said it just picks up trash, water, leaves and they had a customer go through a big puddle and hydraulic the engine. Plus heat off ashphalt can be an issue.
great video and this is something I have been thinking about lately. I am curious about going back to my stock air box for drag racing so that IATs are not insane staging up to the tree. High IATs rob HP, so if I can bring those back down, I wonder if I can improve getting out of the hole faster and harder. I have e85, headers, CAI and pulled my interior. I raced another 18 with same final gears, he had full interior and only e85 tune. we had same tires and we both cut the same 60 and trap speed, mph, everything.
I always thought cold air was a waste of money. Just increase the diameter of the OEM intake and keep the air box. I have done this method for yrs and it has given me very gd results
I reworked my PMAS and partitioned certain areas so that I get almost the same temp as stock on the highway, and it’s way better in traffic than out of the box. Completely happy with the setup, but to be fair I did have to get inventive to get results. Out of the box, IATs at long red lights were shocking.
Would be nice to see dyno numbers. I agree with you. It's the same on an F 150 ecoboost. Dyno numbers don't show any improvement over the stock air intake.
I thought it was well documented that PMAS was the way to go. After this video it seems that the route to go is a hi-flow filter and a smooth tube. Good food for thought.
The intake tubes themselves are bigger on aftermarket kits, thus allowing the car to breath more air, regardless of temperature. JLT witch is a lot bigger than stock, also uses ducting to the front, and seals on the underside of the hood when you shut it.
Obviously Roush CAI would be the best , I mean they work directly with ford right ? And have the ducts and closed off and are 105mm 🤔 all makes sense now thanks
I know very little about cars but I have recently been trying to put a little money into my 2017 Ecoboost Premium. I know I'm not going to get a V8 roar so the next best thing is the beautiful sound of the turbo. with what you were saying about sticking with something close to stock.... That sorta suggests that I should go with the closed box option like AirRaid, but once the hood is closed, the Roush option with the shield... wouldn't that suffice?
Dude I already knew this LoL keep em coming YOLO! My procharged 2012 mustang is toast . Now I'm sporting 18 gt350. Need opinion on twin or single turbo.
Very informative vidio . Do they make a stock filter element such as k& n that can be substituted for original square filter that would let a little more flow?
I have a heat shield blocking the open element, coated with the thermal protection. IAT’s are like a factory box. The factory box is amazing though. It’s just ugly. We all know guys can’t leave shit alone.
Ford has been giving us cold air inlets running from the front grill for years now. Intake manufacturers should have adapted by now to use the stock inlet location to feed a new closed box designed with air flow in mind. It's like the innovation in this area stopped 15 years ago for some reason.
Somebody Didn’t get any nookie last night .lol Great vid and all the manufacturers need to leave are boy alone if not for Alex most of us wouldn’t own our be buying mustang parts. 👍🏼
I bought the K&N elbow tube which utilizes the stock factory air box and I dropped in the K&N air filter that comes with the elbow. It looks cleaner and my IAT’s run on average 5 degrees higher than ambient temp when cruising.
This is all just a one off deal with particular cars. I ran the steeda, Ford performance and it’s not gonna be any better than the factory…then your 350-450 in the hole. There isn’t anything better than a complete custom build on your intake. I have a Injen that goes down into the wheel well with the weaponR adapter kit that connects through the straight through air filter onto the AFE air filter. I took the left lower fog light out and the filter sits right there.
Do you think the larger 2018 cold air intake is adaptable to the 2012 gt?. And if so would it be worth any horsepower? Along with a 2018 intake and a tune? Just curious. Thank you
Ah yes my friend... We get older (I'm 55!), and we finally realize that not all shiny things under the hood are necessarily the best option for our Rides!!! 😲 Seriously though, you're right. That 18-up Coyote intake setup is incredible for a CAI!! 👍👍 BUT, for us guys who like our older Stangs.... The Stock Intake SUCKS! 😖 And I'm referring to SN-95 & S-197.... I'm actually surprised that NOBODY made a CAI with a Closed Element and enough plumbing to run a 4" Tube to the Grille. Wouldn't it work???
All respect for sharing true information instead of marketing product that is not needed!
Steeda closed air box is like 121mm mass air flow should work nicely
I'm thinking the same. Might just drop a K & N filter in for now.
K&N filters flow worse than paper elements. Been proven to death
@@Saml01 link for proof on that?
@@Andreallen4 of course he dont have proof.
@@Saml01 i also heard something about K&n what about air aide filter ?
I droped in a k&n filter and also drilled out the front grill holes. It made a difference in iat’s both in traffic and cruising and no water issues at all. My car is daily driving and been driven thru some good rain storms and not a single issue with water getting into the inlet.
I learned something new thank you Alex this is why I’m subscribed ! ! & I don’t even own a coyote car(yet) !
Your are a straight forward dude i congratulate you😎👏 keep the videos coming up!
Thumbs up simply for a solid video description lmao. Thanks for the info tho!
I have longtubes and Lund flex fuel, stock intake. Tbh IAT temps always are within 10 degrees of ambient, everyone always asks why I don’t have a CAI, simply don’t need it. 🤷🏼♂️
Alex thanks as always. Big thumbs up what I have learned with my 18 Whipple is not to stomp it when IAT's are high. I have the stock Whipple CAI open system. It is open at the top and the bottom. Plus holes around the tube, lots of heat entrainment possible. I took my hoodliner off and am working on modifying my cooling vents in the hood and the rear hoodseal to try and get the heat out and cooler air in.. without changing out the entire Cai for a lided unit. If you get fired Cletus is looking for a canyon car tuner. Just got to make it fly..
Cough cough Steeda closed air box definitely the best
Yeah seems like it. They’re running it along with a CJ intake on their 10sec N/A car
Their maf signal isnt the cleanest.. they will be revising it soon
@@YDBT4LIFE Alex, any update on this? I'm looking at CAIs for my 18 GT currently. Great info. Everyone seems to go JLT, but great point about the IAT. If the Steeda MAF signal is wonky, I may stick with the stock for now and just add a tune in the short term.
Stay stock until you go Max effort
@@YDBT4LIFE Thanks, man. Will likely be going with your flex tune, as I daily it and only have reliable E85 close to home. Will probably save headers, x-pipe, CAI for next year.
i don't care for white but your S550 looks good as hell with those wheels it sits just right!! Steeda makes a sweet cai now for s550
Best CAI to stay close to stock and get slightly more air is the Injen Evolution. I used it when I had my 2016 GT and loved it. With just the intake and a tune I ran 412 HP and 387 TQ to wheels. Those where literally the only mods I had. Not much of the increase was from the intake as usual but the intake temperatures were 3-4 degrees above ambient with the Injen and 5-7 with stock while moving. They would creep up when in traffic but nothing like my GT350 does. I hit 151 degrees today with an ambient temperature of 82 degrees at idle. That’s what happens with open element intakes. And I’ve never seen anything less than 5 degrees above ambient in the 350 except in a cold winter morning with temperatures around 30 degrees
Thanks Alex always good info. Steeda for the 14 gts use the stock air ducting and shield the engine bay.
This is exactly why I'm running my corsa cai it's the same exact setup as the stock and it's fabulous
"robust and thick" that's what she said
WAYOHHHHHHHHHHHH
This video would have saved me a headache of trying a cold Air. Dealing with high IATs then swapping back to the stock box for what felt like an improvement in comparison 👍
Airaid intake tube, with an aFe drop in inverted filter is basically the ideal setup you were talking about. That's what I'm running anyway.
Thats what i have too, but the air inlet tube is smaller going in the throttle body:(
Know tune required...
I put an Injen CAI on my 2015. Doesn't require a tune so you're using the factory MAF sensor, closed box design and it works. Ran 2/10ths quicker 1/4 mile in 2000ft worse density altitude. Keeps those air intake temps down as well. I put a little foam tape where the Injen meets the factory air inlet since it doesn't have the rubber molding like the factory intake and my intake air temps are about 6-7 degrees above ambient.
Hi vxer, I'll be getting the same filter soon, it's good to hear it works properly. What kind of foam tape did you install? I guess it must be temp/humidity resistant?
@@dennylazzari8175 I found some foam tape at O'Reillys Auto. I used the thin stuff (maybe 1/8" thick). Not a perfect seal like the rubber factory seal, but better than nothing. Can't remember the name brand.
Airaid design is the best then. It’s enclosed and works exactly like the stock design but you get more air. And it also still uses the ram air induction from the grille.
Can you send me a link ?
@@umairejaz6665 fr
Great video Alex, and please keep telling the truth, that’s why most of us follow you cause you are real. 💪🏽💪🏽👍🏽👍🏽
PMAS fenderwell CAI. Keeps the filter and MAF away from heat
Most “non tune” cold air intakes for the new mustang make very little difference on hp for the new 18+ mustang. The difference is the restrictor in the air intake with a tune. The Roush for the 18+ has the restrictor that can be removed. With the restrictor it is very similar to stock with out it, it needs a tune and takes more air in. Simple. It’s not like cars from the year 1999. Stock parts are very good for high performance cars. Ford did a lot to squeeze as much power as they could out of the 18+ mustangs. So with that being said. The best intake in my opinion is the Roush Cold air intake for the 2018+ mustang GT which is very similarly designed to the stock intake with a shield and cover blocking the hot air out.
I have a 2018 5.0. A few years ago I replaced the stock intake with a roush cold air intake which came with a tune. It could run with or without a tune. There was nobody here who could install the roush tune so I’m running it without a tune. The throttle response is instant. Without the roush intake there is a little bit of a lag when I floor the gas pedal. Is the car faster, maybe not but it is quicker.
Dry high flow Saleen filter in stock air box seems to be the best. Coldest air from fender and traps dirt well. Breathes good.
Great video! Exactly why I only put in a better flowing drop in filter.
dave j I went with a k&n. There is some other ones that may be a little better.
Great video, been going back and forth weather to get a CAI or not on my 2020 GT, all I have is a SR X-pipe. Will be getting a tune in the next month or so
Does make it sound a bit better imo. Even if it doesnt help with hp.
Always introducing new insights into my rookie Mustang career
My Steeda Intake uses the cold air inlet just like the stock unit. No bypass. All good all cool!
If you are looking for a little more noise without causing any loss of performance I highly recommend the airaid intake modular tube , it works great, just leave the original box and that is all, no problems, your not going to make any extra HP but also not going to lose any but you can make more throdle noise
Steeda ProFlow Closed CAI FTW....121mm
And they are running it on their 2018 car with a Cobra Jet
smokeum12 exactly
And it runs 10.2 no heat soak
I admit my first mod for my 11 GT was a K&N Typhoon CAI. Thought it looked awesome in the engine bay. I went to a Dyno Day at a local tuner and he said the metal air tube completely defeats the purpose because it absorbs the engine heat and feeds hot air in. Needless to say, I ditched the K&N and went back to the stock Airbox and my IATs are lower. Thanks for your honest opinions, love the channel!
I bought mine with a k&n Blackhawk and idk what’s wrong with it but it always made the car struggle after 6.3k rpm so I got the stock air box and now I’m waiting for a pmas
I've been telling people this for 2 years. The aftermarket CAI kits are senseless in a NA car. If the CA box doesn't seal it from the engine compartment completely, your defeating the purpose of having one to begin with.
Thank God roush makes a closed one but for $400.... ehhhhh
Rouch has the best one I have seen so far it actually takes air in from the front just like the stock, Steeda Makes a great one too that looks stock.....
That's why I like the Corsa Cold air intake.
K&N drop in filter......best bang for your buck 💪💪💪
Bro explained it perfectly
Good advice. I only gained .05 with pmas. Not worth the cost or hassle.
Great video Alex thank you!
youre so right im thinking the same as you what i did is to install a kn in the stock intake
Stock OEM with aftermarket filter or steeda closed cia for the win.
I kept my factory airbox on my '13 GT with a K&N panel and just replaced the tubing for an Airaid one. Works well! I try to explain this to so many. Every expensive "CAI" I had in the past on previous cars always worsened performance due to high IAT numbers. In the fender or in the engine bay "shielded off," it didn't really matter.
I am thinking of possibly going this route - would you say that the Airaid was worth it?
this is 100% true. My pmas in traffic or low speeds below 40mph is heat soak galore. Yes once im rolling for several seconds it hauls and I have a 2015 which doesnt have the better intake then the 18's+.
I always scratch my head when I see the air filter hanging in the engine bay, drawing in hot engine bay air.
The factory unit is just fine for mild mods, jmo.
Afe makes a decent one for the edge st and other models, and they do offer a cover plate for the intake, too.
Good video man I have always thought this which is why I never bought one yet but everyone just knows you have to have one
My 16 gt with a pmas has gotten up to 170 w/ iat's sitting in traffic here in az. Fun stuff.
That's crazy.
I’m from az. Do you think it was worth the purchase? I’m debating if I should get a pmas but due to the hot temps in THR summer I’m not sure if my car would like it
@@Tender_vigilante after going fbo and a flex tune, yes, definitely.
Alex you know what be nice if a company would make a see through cover only for a stock cold air 2015-2017 model... That would be sick...
I had a steeda cold air on my S197 coyote but after researching about cold air aftermarket intakes ( this video included) it only gains about 8 hp advantage over the factory cold air if that. I reinstalled the factory cold air and now prefer how it looks even. It kind of makes it more of a sleeper, LOL, if you can call it that anyway. I've thought about the K&N modular intake tube but the price just makes me want to cringe.
Im installing mine tomorrow. I just uploaded my 93 Lund tune to my SCTx4. Not really expecting too much but I got a used system for $200 so I said fuggit lol
What do you think about the power packs that ford created for the 15-17 that’s open? Did they f it up? What your saying makes perfect sense, so I wonder why ford made these the way they did.
Solid video Alex
You are looking fit / trim, keep up the good work and post up when you set a new dead lift best
(Dave from Chicago)
So Steeda closed lid..if not stock. That's what I have and honestly, the IAT's still creep. Far better the any open lid I have used though. I have experienced the MAF signal issues a little. Dakota said my car is 2-3% lean and the signal is as good as it's gonna get beyond OEM. I am curious about the revised version.
Alex, the truth hurts but you put it out there for us. Good vid man.
I heard Steeda close air box for mustang have maf signal issues. I heard they are working on revision, because they have problems with e85 flex tubes.
I have a 2020 mustang gt. I want the e85 Flex Tune
Thanks for sharing the knowledge brother
Since my "application" is a gen1 2013 coyote with minor mods, what I get from this is....bigger diameter intake tube coupled with the stock air box would probably be best - possibly increase airflow (especially with a better filter) and keep IATs down. Got it, I think?
Yes!!
So I need to keep my Airaid thanks👍
Airaid? Filter on stock? Is that what you mean?
@@umairejaz6665 no I have an Air Aid cold air kit, comes with its own airbox.
Corsa Performance makes a closed box intake that removes the destructor as well for the 2018+ GT
Would like to have seen a dyno run with stock and after market compared side by side.
Steeda is the ONLY CAI that meets those requirements...
MAF placement on it is crappy though, hard to tune properly.
@@worstshot I never heard or noticed that before.. Looks as thought it is in the stock or close to stock location.. Thanks for the information..
Alex, quit throwing sensible knowledge at these folks! Rice boi aluminum CAI is the way to go man...
That's a great video Alex. Ford is now using LS1 aftermarket technology from 1998. The stock coyote housing is just like the aftermarket "whisper lid" that we used to get for Ls1 cars F bodies back in the day and we would do the "free ram air" mod that is now stock on the mustang. That alone was worth 15 rwhp on an LS1 car. This video gave me flashbacks of the LS1 aftermarket lid and free ram air mod. It looks just like the ls1 aftermarket induction except from the side.
Your thinking is what I’ve been telling people for years. If anything apply some sort of insulation on the stock box or a heat shield.
Hey Alex,remember the old school march ram air kits for the fox body,had the vacuum snorkel under the front bumper???
With the "Stormin Norman" hood.
I remember them. Lmr actually sells them. I was thinking about using one in my fox but without the snorkel. Just put a filter in the fender
@@timothyvoight9753 yeah that's what I did on my 91 Notch worked well
Had a well known Mustang shop advise me against it in the mid 90s. Said it just picks up trash, water, leaves and they had a customer go through a big puddle and hydraulic the engine. Plus heat off ashphalt can be an issue.
great video and this is something I have been thinking about lately. I am curious about going back to my stock air box for drag racing so that IATs are not insane staging up to the tree. High IATs rob HP, so if I can bring those back down, I wonder if I can improve getting out of the hole faster and harder. I have e85, headers, CAI and pulled my interior. I raced another 18 with same final gears, he had full interior and only e85 tune. we had same tires and we both cut the same 60 and trap speed, mph, everything.
Zander13 were you pissed to see that time sleep?
More S550 content dude 👍
I always thought cold air was a waste of money. Just increase the diameter of the OEM intake and keep the air box. I have done this method for yrs and it has given me very gd results
Steeda closed air box FTW!!! Fastest 2018 CAI on the planet. #Facts Great video Alex.
Face is looking slimmer, your workouts are paying off.
I reworked my PMAS and partitioned certain areas so that I get almost the same temp as stock on the highway, and it’s way better in traffic than out of the box. Completely happy with the setup, but to be fair I did have to get inventive to get results. Out of the box, IATs at long red lights were shocking.
.... Almost makes me want to try hooking up the Chrome CAI Tube to the Stock Airbox with a K&N Filter. 😲
Would be nice to see dyno numbers. I agree with you. It's the same on an F 150 ecoboost. Dyno numbers don't show any improvement over the stock air intake.
K&N typhoon seems to be a good design was thinking of replacing JLT with it, for this among other reasons
I thought it was well documented that PMAS was the way to go. After this video it seems that the route to go is a hi-flow filter and a smooth tube. Good food for thought.
The intake tubes themselves are bigger on aftermarket kits, thus allowing the car to breath more air, regardless of temperature. JLT witch is a lot bigger than stock,
also uses ducting to the front, and seals on the underside of the hood when you shut it.
Yet iats are regularly 20 degrees higher than stock. And bigger means nothing when the throttle body and manifold are bone stock.
I have catless long tubes and a boss manifold.
@@KoyoteKyle stock 18 cold air would perform better than a jlt.
Alejandro Flores I have a 2012
@@KoyoteKyle make it fit
Obviously Roush CAI would be the best , I mean they work directly with ford right ? And have the ducts and closed off and are 105mm 🤔 all makes sense now thanks
Find out tomorrow if I'm trading away my 15 gt for a 19 Shelby, someone work some magic for me
Why? You track a lot? I would rather throw force induction on a 15.
Great content Alex,thanks!!
Biggest scam in the car aftermarket business is swapping CAI.
Why does everyone love JLT
I know very little about cars but I have recently been trying to put a little money into my 2017 Ecoboost Premium. I know I'm not going to get a V8 roar so the next best thing is the beautiful sound of the turbo. with what you were saying about sticking with something close to stock.... That sorta suggests that I should go with the closed box option like AirRaid, but once the hood is closed, the Roush option with the shield... wouldn't that suffice?
I’m so keeping my stock gen2 coyote stock coi
Dude I already knew this LoL keep em coming YOLO! My procharged 2012 mustang is toast . Now I'm sporting 18 gt350. Need opinion on twin or single turbo.
*Post 42* Coyote Breastmilk squirts just fine with a Ford cold air intake, especially Ford's 2018+ milky cold air induction systems
bad ass video bro, good info keep doing a good job
Very informative vidio . Do they make a stock filter element such as k& n that can be substituted for original square filter that would let a little more flow?
I have a heat shield blocking the open element, coated with the thermal protection. IAT’s are like a factory box. The factory box is amazing though. It’s just ugly. We all know guys can’t leave shit alone.
D mark or rev auto is pretty beast tbh
"Cold air intake" is equivalent to the oil additive market. Don't forget to take your herbal medications too. Makes your reaction times better. ;-)
Best comment lol
I always felt that my car with a 2.3 blower was faster with the stock closed Roush box than the open JLT.
Ya probly
Ford has been giving us cold air inlets running from the front grill for years now. Intake manufacturers should have adapted by now to use the stock inlet location to feed a new closed box designed with air flow in mind. It's like the innovation in this area stopped 15 years ago for some reason.
Yepp, sucks my Procharger IATs run through the roof here in MD while I'm in traffic or creeping in first and it drives me insane.
Good info as always
Great info !!
was thinking Steeda closed box thoughts?
Alex , great video !!!! If I put a 2018 intake on my 2015 . Could I used the 2018 air intake, or go aftermarket??
Somebody Didn’t get any nookie last night .lol
Great vid and all the manufacturers need to leave are boy alone if not for Alex most of us wouldn’t own our be buying mustang parts. 👍🏼
Good advice
I'm thinking Steeda ProFlow CAI w/Steeda H-pipe.
Why so much hate against Cletus?! Love that dude lol
Another good way to lower your iat's is to use a VMP dual fan heat exchanger yeah? although I guess that's for blower application only correct?
I bought the K&N elbow tube which utilizes the stock factory air box and I dropped in the K&N air filter that comes with the elbow. It looks cleaner and my IAT’s run on average 5 degrees higher than ambient temp when cruising.
This is all just a one off deal with particular cars. I ran the steeda, Ford performance and it’s not gonna be any better than the factory…then your 350-450 in the hole. There isn’t anything better than a complete custom build on your intake. I have a Injen that goes down into the wheel well with the weaponR adapter kit that connects through the straight through air filter onto the AFE air filter. I took the left lower fog light out and the filter sits right there.
Do you think the larger 2018 cold air intake is adaptable to the 2012 gt?. And if so would it be worth any horsepower? Along with a 2018 intake and a tune? Just curious. Thank you
Michael Reardon Simply wouldn’t fit. They make closed boxes for your year similar to what he’s talking about above.
Steeda has one
Ah yes my friend... We get older (I'm 55!), and we finally realize that not all shiny things under the hood are necessarily the best option for our Rides!!! 😲
Seriously though, you're right. That 18-up Coyote intake setup is incredible for a CAI!! 👍👍
BUT, for us guys who like our older Stangs.... The Stock Intake SUCKS! 😖
And I'm referring to SN-95 & S-197....
I'm actually surprised that NOBODY made a CAI with a Closed Element and enough plumbing to run a 4" Tube to the Grille.
Wouldn't it work???