For the rear, you can ditch the lowering blocks and just flip the front hanger to lower by 2", but then I'm old and that's what we did back in the day for Mopars.
Cool old Mopar. Reminds me of my 1966 Dodge Dart GT that I had back in high school 40 years ago. Im looking for a video for a friend who needs pictures. I used a Mopar J body transverse torsion setup on his 1950 Chevy sedan delivery. I had to move away before the final adjustments were done. I know the process is the same, but he didn't pay attention to me when I explained it when I was there. Off to find a J or M body video. But thanks for the short ride down memory lane.
@@rustbucketproductions Thank you so much It was so hard to move the bolt I thought I was going to break it. I was using a pipe as a lever to do it going to put it on stands.
@John Johnson Thanks for the reply. I did get them to move. I put the car on jacks and they were easier to turn. Need to take the car in for an alignment. Fenders don't rub on tires now.
No, not all cars have torsion bars and I am pretty sure Lexus does not use torsion bars, but if you look up your vehicle you will be able to be certain. As far as height is concerned torsion bars are located in the front and rear of vehicles. My car only has them in the front but some trucks have them in the front and rear. So when you loosen/tighten the torsion bar bolts in the front you're only going to be affecting the front ride height and vice versa. Hope this helps.
Consider the shock also, you see a shock, it is or is not the right one, and wear on shocks on torsion bars is part of the cant/camber/alignment, along with that box full of upper/lower control arm bushings. I try to start with new everything, and invariably the shocks are shot, and some have been the complete wrong shock-someone wanted height, some want lowered and the shock is usually the first choice by novice enthusiast. Sometimes I wonder if they used a comealong to tighten the top shock nut down. Spending the extra to replace all the bushings and ball joints and seals is a little longer, more work, and sometimes frustrating, but after your done and that classic rolls down the road as if it were new, it's all worht it and you won't have to do it again for 20 years or so......................
If I recall correctly they are 15in wheels. The Valiant came standard with 14in wheels in 1967 but the originals were swapped out with the 15in Duster wheels by a previous owner.
+Denver Walker There are no torsion bars for the rear suspension, but you could buy lowering blocks to drop the rear as long as the components aren't rusted.
Ugh...that would be 5/8th :) Also, you should have taken a full side pic straight on to view the stance, before/after. If you lower/adjust the ride height this way, be sure to spend a few bucks to get the car aligned afterwards.
@@afastcuda1970 ? The folks who LOWERED mine, ALSO aligned it...in that order. Shops most likely have NO CLUE what "stock" height is, or if the bolts are to be all the way in or w/ever.
The only vehicles that use torsion bars are various Chryslers (a bodies, b bodies, c bodies, and e bodies) made in the 1960's and 70's. They only affect the height of the front of the vehicle.
I spent a good while scratching my head wondering where the front springs were. Cars nowadays have coiled springs. In the olden days they'd rely on the flex between those bars and the body to create the springy effect.
I would recommend getting an alignment as lowering the vehicle will likely give you some negative camber. You do not want to wear your tires prematurely.
Yep, right turn to raise, left turn to lower. And for those who don't know, clockwise to raise, counterclockwise to lower. Don't forget to measure your height on both sides so it's the same on both sides, and don't laugh, but bounce the front end of the car up and down as much as you can, then remeasure it, doing the bounce between measurements, I tell you this from experience, & then get an alignment. Something you need to consider is the amount of abuse the front takes, and if you go up to the limit you run the risk of destroying the tightest side-first. There again experience with a touch to much of "just one more turn" . Thats up, down can cause problems also-worn bushings in your control arms, knuckles, worn out/incorrect shocks can cause a multitude of problems besides reducing the tension with torsion bars, affects cant and camber, so again an alignment is a necessary evil, and if it's done right it will make whatever you do too it last more than a summer or two. OK, it works-and real good if done correctly. Don't think I know how to do it, I am always doing something for the first time everytime I do something, always never the same for each Mopar I have owned-I like to do it righy the first time, and it has worked for me. You on the other hand, I don't know you so this is only free advise, not gospel.....except the to tight part and the alignment part. Have fun........
![700HP Supercharged LSA Chevy Nova SLEEPER! [4K]](/img/n.gif)
For the rear, you can ditch the lowering blocks and just flip the front hanger to lower by 2", but then I'm old and that's what we did back in the day for Mopars.
Appreciate the info. Helpful on my Fury project. Corrected measurement should have been 24 5/8 by the way, not 3/8. Thanks for the vid.
Any time you adjust those bolts, you need to drive the car in reverse about 5 feet and then forward. The suspension will settle.
Cool old Mopar. Reminds me of my 1966 Dodge Dart GT that I had back in high school 40 years ago. Im looking for a video for a friend who needs pictures. I used a Mopar J body transverse torsion setup on his 1950 Chevy sedan delivery. I had to move away before the final adjustments were done. I know the process is the same, but he didn't pay attention to me when I explained it when I was there. Off to find a J or M body video. But thanks for the short ride down memory lane.
Clean valiant!
What tire sizes were you running at the time? Looks nice
Very helpful on my 73 Cuda. My heights need to be adjusted so they are even. Will the bolts turn easier if the car is on a jack stand?
Yes it would be easier to adjust the bolts if the front end was off the ground.
@@rustbucketproductions Thank you so much It was so hard to move the bolt I thought I was going to break it. I was using a pipe as a lever to do it going to put it on stands.
@John Johnson Thanks for the reply. I did get them to move. I put the car on jacks and they were easier to turn. Need to take the car in for an alignment. Fenders don't rub on tires now.
aaahh man it work THANK YOU SO MUCH
Thank you
I have a 76 mopar. Can you actually loosen the bolt to where it falls out???
I am not sure, I would image that you can but I have never tried to loosen it that far.
No, not all cars have torsion bars and I am pretty sure Lexus does not use torsion bars, but if you look up your vehicle you will be able to be certain. As far as height is concerned torsion bars are located in the front and rear of vehicles. My car only has them in the front but some trucks have them in the front and rear. So when you loosen/tighten the torsion bar bolts in the front you're only going to be affecting the front ride height and vice versa. Hope this helps.
Do you guys really say three fourths and not three quarters?
Haha either or, but usually three fourths
All good. Was just odd to this Aussie
We say 3 quarter..... Three fourths sounds like math equation
“Three quarters” is what people say in US if they ever used tape measure 😂
What size tires are you running on this car?
I have a 74 scamp, do i let it rest on jack stands??.... or just raise it on a jack?? Thanks
I left it on the jack stands, you could always put it on A frames if you wanted too.
That camber could be from a bad bushing in the lower control arm. Mine has a terrible camber after just driving it.
Consider the shock also, you see a shock, it is or is not the right one, and wear on shocks on torsion bars is part of the cant/camber/alignment, along with that box full of upper/lower control arm bushings. I try to start with new everything, and invariably the shocks are shot, and some have been the complete wrong shock-someone wanted height, some want lowered and the shock is usually the first choice by novice enthusiast. Sometimes I wonder if they used a comealong to tighten the top shock nut down. Spending the extra to replace all the bushings and ball joints and seals is a little longer, more work, and sometimes frustrating, but after your done and that classic rolls down the road as if it were new, it's all worht it and you won't have to do it again for 20 years or so......................
Depends on your manufacture of the lift kit. my 97 tahoe has a lift kit and mine are also 3/4"
What size rims are those
If I recall correctly they are 15in wheels. The Valiant came standard with 14in wheels in 1967 but the originals were swapped out with the 15in Duster wheels by a previous owner.
I have a 66 belvedere and how do i lower the rear now?
+Denver Walker There are no torsion bars for the rear suspension, but you could buy lowering blocks to drop the rear as long as the components aren't rusted.
thanks for your help
Ugh...that would be 5/8th :) Also, you should have taken a full side pic straight on to view the stance, before/after. If you lower/adjust the ride height this way, be sure to spend a few bucks to get the car aligned afterwards.
Not necessary to get it realigned, the alignment shop will reset the ride hieght to factory specs.
@@afastcuda1970 ? The folks who LOWERED mine, ALSO aligned it...in that order. Shops most likely have NO CLUE what "stock" height is, or if the bolts are to be all the way in or w/ever.
I don't know much about cars, haha. Do all cars have a torsion bar? Or is it an aftermarket product. I have an 05 Lexus I wanna lower. Good video
The only vehicles that use torsion bars are various Chryslers (a bodies, b bodies, c bodies, and e bodies) made in the 1960's and 70's. They only affect the height of the front of the vehicle.
I spent a good while scratching my head wondering where the front springs were. Cars nowadays have coiled springs. In the olden days they'd rely on the flex between those bars and the body to create the springy effect.
Luke Marine , mopars, not just Chrysler’s. Dodge, Plymouth, DeSoto, from 1957 to about 1992 I believe
Get coilovers . What kind of lexus?
Do I need to do the alignment
Went I lower the car 67 barracuda thank
I would recommend getting an alignment as lowering the vehicle will likely give you some negative camber. You do not want to wear your tires prematurely.
is this also how i raise my 1971 swinger because it has been lowered
D W yes
wow i am going to say it one more time .amazing not one person could tell me this it work
Yep, right turn to raise, left turn to lower. And for those who don't know, clockwise to raise, counterclockwise to lower. Don't forget to measure your height on both sides so it's the same on both sides, and don't laugh, but bounce the front end of the car up and down as much as you can, then remeasure it, doing the bounce between measurements, I tell you this from experience, & then get an alignment. Something you need to consider is the amount of abuse the front takes, and if you go up to the limit you run the risk of destroying the tightest side-first. There again experience with a touch to much of "just one more turn" . Thats up, down can cause problems also-worn bushings in your control arms, knuckles, worn out/incorrect shocks can cause a multitude of problems besides reducing the tension with torsion bars, affects cant and camber, so again an alignment is a necessary evil, and if it's done right it will make whatever you do too it last more than a summer or two.
OK, it works-and real good if done correctly.
Don't think I know how to do it, I am always doing something for the first time everytime I do something, always never the same for each Mopar I have owned-I like to do it righy the first time, and it has worked for me.
You on the other hand, I don't know you so this is only free advise, not gospel.....except the to tight part and the alignment part. Have fun........
You still have this Valiant?
I do not have it anymore :(
Is it possible to lower it a couple of inches
Possibly but you run the risk of having excessive camber.
If i tighten or loosen the bolt, is the camber going to change?
yes it can-see you local alignment place and work with them.
how can i get my 79 volare to lift up and the front really high
Does it affect height in both front and back?
+D Drake No just the front, because it is only dealing with the front suspension
nice car
What happened to this car?
You still got it?
/Lennart
Unfortunately I do not have the Valiant anymore, but the guy I sold it to, said that he would call me first if he was ever gonna sell it.
M Bodies is 15/16.
24 and 3/8s is not 24 and 3 quarters.
Lowering your car this way doesn't improve handling, makes it sloppier , takes tension off the torsion bar like having a car with weak springs