Battery Going Dead? The Doors are Ajar, but Closed!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
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@WrenchingWithKenny @snafuperformance2136 @traditionovertrend2704 #wrenchingwithkenny #wesselmotorworks #keepwrenching - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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I had a 1995 Ford Ranger that the driver door switch malfunctioned on and driving home from work one dark December afternoon/early evening the dome light stayed on and the door chime would not quit until it timed out after 20 minutes. By then I was almost to daycare to pick up my daughter, where the 20 minute cycle began again. The cure was a very liberal dose of WD-40 into the switch mechanism. It worked, I drove that truck several more years without the problem reoccurring.
Ditto on a 2002 Ranger
I worked at a Ford dealership in service. Some techs liked lubing the door latches with white lithium grease. The problem is it attracts dirt and gums up the switches and makes them stick. WD-40 is a better choice.
I have a Chevy Suburban and had a similar problem and started diagnosing it and discovered they use a rack and gear that moves back and forth to show when the door is latched. Such a complex design for determining if the door is open or closed. I looked up the price for a new one and it was $170! My 2003 Pontiac Vibe uses a $2 pin switch like the old days. A much simpler design and cheaper too.
I had a similar problem on either a 2008 or a 2004 F150 I had and I solved it by squirting down the latch with some WD-40 or some penetrating oil, I forget which but it solved the problem. Just something to try if you don't want to take the door apart. Keep the good stuff coming Kenny.
I had the same issue & fix on my 2002 Ranger!
Gotta say thank you. I was always told that "water sheild" as you called it, was solely for sound deadening. Thinking about it, it makes sense with the water. I have shredded many of those insulation pads, plastics, whatever they are and have never had an issue. Now having this insight, I will be more careful in the future. Great show sir!!
I agree completely about your remarks regarding what we in the North call a Vapor barrier. It prevents mold and rust by preventing warm moist interior air from contacting cold steel parts of the door. Unwanted moisture can come from either side.
Absolutely!!
When my truck did this I spayed wd-40 in the latch and it’s never been a problem again.
I’m gonna have to get one of those.
Thanks again 👍
Thank s
Its like the glovebox light switch on my "dead every monday" truck. Needed a jump every Monday, only on Monday. Took 2 days for glovebox light to kill battery.
If he ever sells the truck someone is going to go nuts trying to figure why the dome light doesn't work 😂
Nice little job. Looks like the same plug that goes on the coils.
Probably is the same.
Always teaching!
years ago i had a similar issue on my ranger.you couldnt predict when the battery would be dead.it took me by surprise one night when i realized the glove box light was on when it was closed.replaced switch & it never happened again.wish they were all that easy to fix.
The chime is usually from bad switch in door, happened to me on a 2002 explorer passenger side door switch.
Ihave the same thing on my ford 08 f150 , Its worse in winter once in a blue moon in summer. Helps when I put silicone lube.
Yes spraying latch with WD works
Far as ignition cylinder just disconnected so it’s not seeing ground when the key is inserted. It’s basically thinking the keys in there.
I had an 06 pickup that did that....loose and sloppy ignition switch. I had a later explorer that seemed to have the same issue but you couldn't cancel it by moving it without the key being in. The explorer needed the key to set it back far enough to cancel the reminder tone. Both heavy use by multiple drivers.
Sometimes a big bunch of keys rocking around can wear out the ignition barrel.
I have had issues with Ford truck door switches in the past. Believe it or not all I have done in the past is spray wd 40 or penatrating oil in the latch and cured the problem.
Our 06 at work had a cluster replaced prob 10 years ago. Relay going bad on the board Would lose all gauges and radio. Never got programed after the new one was put in. Radio does not go off till it times out and dome lights do not come on when opening the door I think. Door and key chime also do not work since. When i pulled the old cluster out there was duct tape on it from the factory, lol
👍
Hey Kenny, there might be a bit of a downside to this "fix" that's burned me in the past. If the truck has Retained Accessory Power meaning the radio stays on after the key has been turned off...not having that input to a door opening to turn that off could make the radio stay on for a time until the timer shuts it off.
Wow good thinking, but it should only do it for a minute.
These trucks will keep the BCM relay engaged for 10 minutes. That's barely enough time to listen to two decent songs. It's not a battery killer.
Trucks newer than 2013 you can use Forscan and increase that time to between 20 and 60 minutes.
@@btwbrand Wow I didn't think it was that long.
LOL, I once owned a Windstar.
Sliding door electrics were completely unaccessable. Completely. If you used a long tube you could get some contact cleaner in there.
Go to the kick panel unplug them call it a day
I have a 2008 Ford Transit (European) with the same issue on the driver door. Fix for that was to ground the wire to the switch. Mine got to a point where it wasn't intermittent, but never showed closed, so mine is a worn switch, not a temperature or humidity issue. The van wouldn't lock in that state.
It's in the door latch lol
Mt 2001 f150 will chime after I take the key out of the ignition. Just lightly smack the ignition assembly and the chime quits.
Thank You Kenny
When the key is in ignition and engine running, the computer wants to know when the door is opened. This would be done with the 'ajar switch'.
Hey Kenny, love your channel. Would disconnecting the drivers door switch impact the drive cycle tests?
No impact.
I can't imagine why you would think it can.
ECU looks at temperatures and time spent running to determine if a drive cycle has completed. Not opening and closing a door.
I am surprised you cannot just adjust the switchs to adjust for wear. The door switches in the sixties were a push in switch with one wire to it. You opened up the door the switch closed and the lights came on. With age the switch would wear down and they sold packs with little washers that slid between the switch and the door moving it out a fraction of an inch so they worked again. You put a screwdriver under the switch to pop it out. No door panel removal required. Looks like someone forgot the KISS principle of engineering. For those who are unfamilar with the term KISS stands for Keep It Simple Stupid.
Everything made sense in the old days. The old switches did not need a computer that needed a program to turn on a light bulb. The days of good sense are gone, now we have technology for the sake of technology and nothing is durable.
My car kept killing batteries. Seems the automatic dome light doesn't go out if I open the door before turning off the ignition.
I have a 2002 Ford ranger they say it's 2003 but it's built in 2002 no power windows no power locks however the dome light will stay on and the damn thing will chime so I disconnected the dome light and it stopped the chime I just leave the key and ignition it's a bad idea I know.
I pulled a fuse one time and the radio quit working as well as a few other items on the truck apparently they're all wired in together trying to make the chime stop.
Any advice?
And thank you for your time I really appreciate it 😊
How about removing the bulb, perhaps all interior bulbs? Just asking.
I think the cluster will still see a door ajar signal even if bulbs are removed and will not go to sleep.
@@arthuraucar3696 Good point, thanks.
i would suspect the chime is because the truck thinks the door is open , i would bet that now you have disconnected the leads the chime will go away . I bet before the truck would automatically lock all the doors but now you will have disconnected the wires you will have to manually lock all the doors
The gym module might be bad water gets in them
#wrenchingwithkenny. Good morning I have a question if u have time . I have a 2006 dodge charger 3.5 high output. I'm having an issue with it running hot. I have changed thermostat, oil cooler and water pump have also bled the coolant system. . The car wants to run hot when u try and drive it but will not run hot just sitting in the yard . Car has no engine codes. What could be the issue and what direction should I try to go next.? Thanks in advance
Must be a slow day 11 minutes lol
Engineering always combining stuff. Pain in the arse
Strange that you open up the left rear door and the scantool says "Passenger Door ajar". ????? at 2:32
Driver door is separate input ,other doors share input
As soon as I saw it was a Ford I had to laugh it is a common problem and it amazes me how many times this happens that and the GEM module.
A door is not a jar... silly cars.
I hear you 😊 I used to argue with the talking Lee Iaccamobiles back in the 80s when I'd pull them into the shop." A door is not a jar, it's a door stupid "
@@JG-kv4oi LOL
That's ford for you... "lets put the dome light/door ajar switch in the least accessible position possible." On my '96 Mazda pickup (Ford ranger), I ended up removing the dome light and calling it done.
Had an '05 Ranger extra cab, door switches drove me nuts every you hit a big bumped, door ajar, dome light and chime would come on. Stupid design !!!
I'm getting notifications for wrenching with Kenny, but it's not you
Probably will come back, wires in the door fractured from age and constant flexing.
As usual a non necessary electrical component making peoples lives that little bit annoying.Cheers.