Carburetor Rebuild, VMAX 1200 & Virago 535 V-Twin, Mikuni BDS 34
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
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How to, VMAX 1200 & Virago 535 V-Twin, Mikuni BDS 34, Carburetor Rebuild Instructional Video
In this video I fit a Keyster KY-0542F keyster carburetor rebuild kit to my modified rear carburetor from my other video.
Then I build the the choke pulling mechanism and put 2 rear carbs back as a working pair.
Jump to the section you need with these time references.
00:00 Intro
01:13 choke block
02:43 small diaphragm
04:37 jet block
17:40 float
22:52 air screw
26:53 drain
28:19 diaphragm cover
32:44 heaters
34:42 throttle cable guide
36:08 frame bracket right side
37:00 choke lifters and shaft
41:17 balance spring
42:32 choke lever
44:41 left bracket
/ bikefromthebrink
Excellent video, I rebuilt mine, following your video, now performing perfectly. (the carbs were also ultrasonically cleaned)
Just one point The O ring on the main nozzle time stamp 14:01needs to be fitted AFTER the main nozzle is put down through the carb body, BEFORE you fit the jet block. (fit the main nozzle BEFORE the jet block), The O ring sits underneath the the jet block and seals between the the bottom end of the main nozzle and the jet block body in the float chamber (source Clymer Yamaha repair manual.) The jet block gasket is designed to leave a small gap to allow for the O ring seal. At the other end there is a perfect recess in the main carb body where the main nozzle shoulder sits, thus ensuring the main nozzle is at the correct height in the incoming air flow.
Apart from that the video is perfect, well done.
I second this. The needle jet o ring must be placed between the jet block and carb body, not around the needle jet in the bore of the carburetor.
Extremely detailed and spot on, I don't think I could have.. Well let me rephrase that, I'm sure I could have hobbled my way through the rebuild of my V-MAX carburetors with my hair turning grey and falling out, and blood pressure rising and so on.
I wish I had found your help before I started my project it would have saved me time and money. I accidentally hit the head of the mixture screw with the drill.....
" Some days I'm on and other days I'm moron "
Excellent job vary detailed and done at a great speed. You took your time to explain your process so everyone including me could understand it.
Thanks for your time and help.
V-max Mayo
Glad to help. I might do another soon and improve on it. I didn't realise one of the cameras was out of focus.
Great video, helped me out, got the old girl running a wee treat, thanks again
Glad to hear it
Love this video. Very detailed. Thank you so so much
Glad you enjoyed it!
Superb video, best I have seen on these carbs
Wow, thanks!
Nice video my friend. Very informative. I will do a similar one with the Lifan carbs as it needs re-jetting for the 535 engine...good job👍
Thanks, hope I sounded like I knew what I was doing!
@@BikeFromTheBrink 😁 yeah it was good mate. Them plastic bushes for the choke are so easy to forget..wonder how I know🤣🤦♂️
@@MidlandCruiser luckily a 2 minute fix
good informatiopn for my 535, cheers
I thought you had a 250
Very good tutorial..
Thanks
Good job
Great video, 🆕 subscriber!!
Great video.....done nice and slow !!!
Not all of us operate at the speed the kids speak these days!
Am I getting old?
Just in time I am going to rebuild and do a total clean on my 1985 Yamaha Vmax 1200 it has the same carbs.The bike has 11,000 original miles and doesn’t get much road time so a yearly carb cleaning is in order
Had no trouble with taking the carbs apart and putting them back together but struggling like mad tring to trap the diaphram back behind the plate without it keep popping out of the groove.
Yeah I stuck mine down with a bit of thick grease
Good video mate. Could you advise where to get xv535 car drain fitting?? As tip of mine looks snapped.
Try yambits
Thank you for the video. Working on my 85 vmax. Do you know what cleaner would be the safest to spray on the carbs?
I used holts carb cleaner, I've not tried others.
A bit of brake cleaner on rough stuff.
Hi, great video, can i ask/confirm that the pilot jet, the first one you fit back into the jet block doesn't have bleed holes.. Despite focus being out I think I can still tell that there are no holes..??
I think you're right.
I'm going to redo this video with better focus and a bit more detail.
Do you know where the air holes on the diaphragm slides are located in accordance with the tab on the membrane or just what position when tab is up. I think it matters bc when you buy new ones it tells you to mark them for proper position. I think my front was in the 6 o'clock position and the rear was around 12 with the tab at 1.. hope you can help. Love the new manifold design wow!!
It looks like your front went in the 6 o'clock position too
I've just looked at some I have lying around. I didn't fit them and they are not aligned. But looking at it 6 o'clock makes sense.
My needle valve only had one c-clip type with a L attached almost like yours but only one L instead of 2. Which way should the L be on mine behind the tang close to bowl facing cover or L facing rear of bowl. I found it real hard on mine to get the L facing the rear while trying to get the float in. It's like it just wouldn't allow it.
On the float valve? I wonder if they differ on other years. It's a fiddley job, I used the end of a small flat screwdriver to hook it.
To check your level to can attach some pipe to the drain point and the fuel will travel up the pipe level with the float cover to the line cast into the cover.
Yeah my needle valve is not a closed rectangle like yours looks. Mine only has a L on the needle valve not closed though, it seems like yours would hold the float from sliding off the pin bc no matter which way I put mine it can move to the point where the float can slide off and has. I ordered them from Yamaha so I figured they'd be right especially since it's for my make and model.. so does your clip on the needle valve stop the float from sliding off too? Thanks I'm gonna check mine tomorrow but I stalled today and tried starting it after filling up and gas started coming out the air cleaner from the reed valve.. idk why..
I rebuilt mine trying to adjust float got it real close but it's still running rough and popping and it wasn't before I messed with the level with carb on bike. I noticed on idle the pump keeps running not real bad but continuously and I don't think it was before. I did a check from Haynes manual and it's coming up that the fuel relay is bad could this be messing with my bike??? I've been spending 2weeks ever since I started messing with them. 🆘🆘🆘🆘
If it is running it may just the the fuel is being allowed through, check your float level.
hola te hablo desde Argentina, necesito los Diafragmas para 4 Carburetor Mikuni Bds34, tendras algun lugar para que los compre y me los envien ?? muchas gracias
try www.fowlersparts.co.uk, I think they will post international, or this one nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1736&search=bds34
Is it 135 jet for the front and 137 for the rear cylinder please
I'm not sure, didn't I mention them in the video somewhere?
How Do I Know the Right Size of Carburetor to Use?
This was the original froom the 535 using the original sized jets. So I had to calculating to do.
What engine are you looking to power?
It's amazing that it is possible to power a V8 with a lawnmower carburetor.
th-cam.com/video/gmPtCmL-Ldw/w-d-xo.html
Got another question for my 95 Yamaha Virago 535SG. For the main jet sizes the manuals say 137.5 front cylinder 135 rear cylinder. But online Yamaha diagrams it shows the 135 in the front carb and 137.5 in rear carb where throttle lever is. So why do the manuals say front cylinder 137.5, rear cylinder 135? Isn't the front cylinder behind the front tire and the rear by the back seat? I have someone telling me the rear is the front and the front is the rear, I know (from rear to front of bike) cylinder numbering is 1-2 which I thought was firing order idk. But I also see that in the book it says to take the "front carb" enrichment diaphragm off and that's before you split carb. So I'd think that the front carb goes to front cylinder and rear carb (where gas goes in first) is going to rear cylinder, right?? I'm just so confused 🤔
As I understand it, the rear cylinder runs hotter as it gets less air flow than the front. So the larger jet goes to the rear to make it run a little cooler.
@@BikeFromTheBrink thanks
@@BikeFromTheBrink so the rear cylinder is the one by the battery?? Bc weird manuals say 137.5 front cylinder it makes me confused.
You're scaring me now!
@@BikeFromTheBrink and that's what he said but if manual says front cylinder 137.5 it just confuses me when someone says the rear cylinder gets hotter so larger jet but the manuals say front cylinder 137.5 etc.. it's like I don't know which one to pug it in or why manuals would say 137.5 front 135 rear unless 135 is bigger jet?? Idk I feel real dumb and haven't been able to wrap my head around why the manuals say 137.5 front. Oh well I'll change them.
you fitted the large o ring wrong.
Hi, you're right, , thanmks for the comment, I did pin a comment mentioning this, I hope people see it. I might redo the video as I have another set to rebuild.