I love my machine. I know these machines need Some work straight out of the box. But I'm kind of a tinker like that. I find these machines are User friendly easily modifiable and customizable. I've modified and customized my machine, and I've made a couple of videos showing what I have done to it. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.😊
Instead of modifying the needle bar I chose to modify the needles. I buy the titanium Groz Beckert 160/23 needles and grind the shaft flat and shorten the needles. Works great. Also drilled out and polished the hole in the arm. Use the 140/22 more often.
I bought one of these from Batam 2 or 3 yrs ago like you say the first you need is large thread. I had thread but couldn't believe the can of worms I just opened up ,because everything was wrong. I ordered a servo motor for mine and built a table yesterday for the machine and motor. Then today I run across your video and now I'm all set to go! Very useful information Thanks for putting this out.
This is the best video on the patcher I've seen, very informative and perfect volume level and special thanks for the bantam saddle store tip I just placed a big spare parts order 🤓
Got my machine finally. Paid a bit more. Started exploring. It has been modified with bearings and bushings already. 😢. Almost disappointed 😅😂. Only modifing I want to do is a bobbin winder and change the foot lift lever. BTW not to forget, thank you for your videos on getting everything timed.
Also note that the orientation of the needle is always with respect to the direction of travel, that is the groove is always directly on the opposite side of the foot and inline with the thread coming down through the needle bar. This must be so because the orientation of travel can swing a full 360 degrees with respect to the rest of the machine. the simple way to remember this is that the groove must be on the side that the thread comes in from. I hope this clears up any confusion. 😁😁
You have provided good guidance on your mods...except for the groove in the needle - the grove should be to the left, away from the flywheel. Thanks for your video!
The side of the needle with the thread groove faces away from the crank, not towards it. That's the side of the needle that the thread comes down out of the needle bar when you thread the needle from left to right. If you look at the flat shank needle, that's how they are oriented when you install the needle with the flat side in the needle bar
Thank you but please be aware that I messed up in the video. The groove in the needle should face to the left away from the crank wheel. I'm not the one who came up with this modification but there weren't any videos of doing the mod at the time I made the video.
Is not the 140-22 a larger needle than the 130-21. My reading finds to use a 207 thread you would need at least a 180-24 minimum. I am relatively new to this so please let me know if I am wrong.
I am just curious, is there any reason why the other ends of the needle bar could not be modified? Then you could just turn the bar upside down and use both types of needles
In my machine the needle bar has never been able to accept the flat side, the grove is too small for it as it is only 1,6mm which is the thickness at the flat side of the shank (but also the shank diameter of some industrial needles), so the needle always fit only sideways. I had to turn the needle bar around so that the needle would be oriented in the right direction The good part is that now it fits both the usual home needles with the flat shank and the industrial ones with thinner shank which fits into the groove... with a motor maybe there could be skipped stitches but at the speed of hand cranking they both work perfectly When I got it the needle was placed in it wrong and there was the little piece of leather with sewing that they use as test at the factory, I think the only reason it worked for them is that they use fishing line for the test, which is stiff and probably in the small space where the bobbin is it makes a nice wide loop for the hook to grab. I dont think mine had the only wrongly cut needle bar, maybe they are needle bars for industrial needles and they happened to use one of those for the one I have
I don't know, maybe. But by doing it the way most people do, including me, I have consistent results. Easy just to change needles whenever I need to. Don't have to worry about grinding individual needles and getting different results on each one
is it possible for me to send my machine to you to get it operational. I have had it a couple of years and havent been able to use it. I NEED HELP! please
Sorry I just now saw your comment. Hopefully you got it worked out and didn't give up. Once they are dialed in they really are fantastic for the price. If you are still having problems then I recommend the mainelyacres channel on TH-cam. I learned a lot from that channel.
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I love my machine. I know these machines need Some work straight out of the box. But I'm kind of a tinker like that. I find these machines are User friendly easily modifiable and customizable. I've modified and customized my machine, and I've made a couple of videos showing what I have done to it.
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.😊
Instead of modifying the needle bar I chose to modify the needles. I buy the titanium Groz Beckert 160/23 needles and grind the shaft flat and shorten the needles. Works great. Also drilled out and polished the hole in the arm. Use the 140/22 more often.
I was just thinking the same; just flatten the needle. However a good point to also trim the needle.
I bought one of these from Batam 2 or 3 yrs ago like you say the first you need is large thread. I had thread but couldn't believe the can of worms I just opened up ,because everything was wrong. I ordered a servo motor for mine and built a table yesterday for the machine and motor. Then today I run across your video and now I'm all set to go! Very useful information Thanks for putting this out.
Thank you. I did make a mistake in the video regarding the orientation of the needle. The groove in the needle faces left, away from the hand crank.
This is the best video on the patcher I've seen, very informative and perfect volume level and special thanks for the bantam saddle store tip I just placed a big spare parts order 🤓
You're welcome.
Thanks man. That is very informative and my confidence to modify is greatly increased.
Got my machine finally. Paid a bit more. Started exploring. It has been modified with bearings and bushings already. 😢. Almost disappointed 😅😂. Only modifing I want to do is a bobbin winder and change the foot lift lever. BTW not to forget, thank you for your videos on getting everything timed.
So, if you can’t go back to the flat shank needles, maybe it is best to order the spare part so you can have both options avail.
My machine is arriving in a few days. Wouldn't it be easier to grind a flat portion onto an industrial needle?
They make a 22 flat side because I have one and you can use a 207 thread I do all the time in a stock machine without the needle bar being modified
Also note that the orientation of the needle is always with respect to the direction of travel, that is the groove is always directly on the opposite side of the foot and inline with the thread coming down through the needle bar. This must be so because the orientation of travel can swing a full 360 degrees with respect to the rest of the machine. the simple way to remember this is that the groove must be on the side that the thread comes in from. I hope this clears up any confusion. 😁😁
You have provided good guidance on your mods...except for the groove in the needle - the grove should be to the left, away from the flywheel. Thanks for your video!
You are absolutely correct. I wish I could edit video but I don't have the software to do so. I'm going to remake the video.
The side of the needle with the thread groove faces away from the crank, not towards it. That's the side of the needle that the thread comes down out of the needle bar when you thread the needle from left to right. If you look at the flat shank needle, that's how they are oriented when you install the needle with the flat side in the needle bar
Thank you. You just answered my question (How could i use #207 thread on a similar machine i got on Amazon)
I m intrested I want this machine in india ,how can I buy
@@rttagro I bought mine on Amazon.
@@DIYoming it's work in chappal or only show
Very Ingenious! Thank you for Sharing! God Bless YOU!!
Thank you but please be aware that I messed up in the video. The groove in the needle should face to the left away from the crank wheel. I'm not the one who came up with this modification but there weren't any videos of doing the mod at the time I made the video.
That's why I have two needle bars one for round shank and one for flat shank needles
Good idea
Is filing a flat spot on the needle not an option? FYI I just ordered my machine so I don’t have my hands on it yet
@rhino3hh needle is way too hard. Just modify the needle bar. That's why I have two bar's one for flat needles and one for round needles.
Nice Video Thank you for the Info and sharing your knowledge of the machine very helpfull!!
Your welcome.
I designed some 3d printable mods for this machine. I have posted a video with and email link. I email the STL files.
Do they sell needle bars for this machine that accepts round shank? Great video and thanks for your time in making these vids! ✌️
I don't know if anyone sells them. Check with Bantam saddle and tack.
Is not the 140-22 a larger needle than the 130-21. My reading finds to use a 207 thread you would need at least a 180-24 minimum. I am relatively new to this so please let me know if I am wrong.
the chart says size 23 needle for 207 thread
Thanks for doing this video!
You're welcome.just keep in mind to do the opposite of what I said when putting the needle back into the machine. The groove faces to the left.
I am just curious, is there any reason why the other ends of the needle bar could not be modified? Then you could just turn the bar upside down and use both types of needles
In my machine the needle bar has never been able to accept the flat side, the grove is too small for it as it is only 1,6mm which is the thickness at the flat side of the shank (but also the shank diameter of some industrial needles), so the needle always fit only sideways. I had to turn the needle bar around so that the needle would be oriented in the right direction
The good part is that now it fits both the usual home needles with the flat shank and the industrial ones with thinner shank which fits into the groove... with a motor maybe there could be skipped stitches but at the speed of hand cranking they both work perfectly
When I got it the needle was placed in it wrong and there was the little piece of leather with sewing that they use as test at the factory, I think the only reason it worked for them is that they use fishing line for the test, which is stiff and probably in the small space where the bobbin is it makes a nice wide loop for the hook to grab.
I dont think mine had the only wrongly cut needle bar, maybe they are needle bars for industrial needles and they happened to use one of those for the one I have
Thank you much.
Please keep in mind that I misspoke about reinstalling the needle. The groove in the needle faces to the left, away from the hand wheel
U can get 23 a run 207 on top with 138 on bottom
Why not just grind a flat side on the needle with your dremel or bench grinder?
Also, any issues with the hook using a larger needle?
U can run this with 207 with out doing all this
Dremel tool flatten the needle
Thx
Note: my last comment refers to the explanation starting at about @ 13.43. 😁
I understand, that's why I put a correction in the video description the first time somebody corrected me.
Good day. I tried to find the phantom tac Web site you mentioned but had no luck. could you send me a link??? Thanks
It's BANTAM TACK.
Silly question.... why not flatten the shank of the needle instead?
Too tedious.
I did that too. Much less work. A few seconds o a dremel stone.
every needle?? wow.
Can you just grind the needle?
I don't know, maybe. But by doing it the way most people do, including me, I have consistent results. Easy just to change needles whenever I need to. Don't have to worry about grinding individual needles and getting different results on each one
@@DIYoming thank you ❤️
Too much talk
is it possible for me to send my machine to you to get it operational. I have had it a couple of years and havent been able to use it. I NEED HELP! please
Sorry I just now saw your comment. Hopefully you got it worked out and didn't give up. Once they are dialed in they really are fantastic for the price. If you are still having problems then I recommend the mainelyacres channel on TH-cam. I learned a lot from that channel.
Harrison Hightower has a bunch of videos that goes into great detail on setting up your machine with complete disassemble and reassemble.
Oops nevermind I figured it out...lol
Gday what's the website you mention plz?
Sorry, I just now saw this comment. I didn't get a comment notification. Google bantam saddle and tack.
is it possible for you to repair my machine?
No, I'm sorry. But there are videos for just about anything. I would start with the TH-cam channel mainelyacres.
let's see it sew