Finger Pain (D.I.P joint) in Climbing!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2025
- Check the video for a comprehensive chat with GRSM Physiotherapist @jaysmithpt about why pain occurs at our DIP joints, and what we can do about it!
1️⃣Manage acute and cumulative loads in the 1/2 crimp position
2️⃣ Warm-up the joints by progressively increasing load in the 1/2 crimp position on small holds. See @c4hp for more info on using recruitment pulls
3️⃣ Hangboard! Consider Eva Lopez-Rivera's minimum edge protocol as outlined at Eric Horsts' @training4climbing
Website training for climbing.com
4️⃣ Consider taping and open hand climbing to help reduce the load short term.
QUESTION: Was this video helpful? Want to learn more?! Let us know!
Request an Appointment Now! 🗓️
www.grsm.ca/ap...
Check out our blog! 📝
8 Tendon Rehabilitation Principles for Rock Climbers: www.grsm.ca/8-...
Follow us! 📲
/ grsmcentre
/ grsmcentre
Our mission is to help athletes and active individuals achieve their sports and exercise goals. We are committed to providing the best sports medicine services possible, with a compassionate and caring attitude. By focusing on the identification, treatment and prevention of exercise-related injuries and conditions, our multi-disciplinary team of knowledgeable and certified professionals enables our clients to succeed. Our ultimate priority is to help our clients fulfill their active lifestyle pursuits.
#fingerpain #fingerjoint #rockclimbinglife
My fucking days how grateful am i for having found this video!!!!!! Thank you from the bottom of my heart!!!!!!! God bless you man, thank you fucking hell what a useful bunch of advice you just delivered in 9 minutes
Thanks Jose. Glad it helped. We will try to get Jay to post more climbing related videos.
Thanks for this! Very helpful. I used to climb in college and have recently start Brazilian jiu jitsu. The DIP pain is real and I knew my climbers would understand.
Woow such an amazing video very well detailed thanks
Thanks so much for this video, felt like you were talking to me personally
I wish I've seen this before! DIP issues seems like an obvious issue for beginners, yet, so little information about it!
Thanks for the video , this is what I've been trying to describe to my climbing friends, it's not an a4 pulley and the pain is on the last joint of my ring finger. I've been climbing 6 years and never had any issues this year I have been hammering training, started finger boarding etc... appears not enough adaptive time like you say
Thanks for the video, it was super helpful !
Thanks for all of this information on here and your website. What does this look like longer term? I have a minor DIP injury. I can still climb hard but I do notice it and don't want it to get worse. I will begin taping it and focusing on open hand crimp strength. Is it just time that will let this heal? Does the pain usually go away after enough time and let you load your finger hard in half/full crimps again?
Same story here. I can climb hard and its like 2-3/10, definetely not even close to a pulley or FDP strain pain, which makes you back off insinctively. This feels much more like a bruise or something thats a minor setback. Update me (or I will update you) if and when things get better.
@Alex Barčovský Kind of in the same spot here, do you guys have any updates on this?
@@matakos22 I taped for a bit and it seemed to help. I avoided climbs that would trigger it. But I think the biggest help was using a warmup block (mini hangboard with a looped rope). I would open crimp on it with my foot keeping tension on the rope. I did 3 sets of 7 seconds of pulling, 3 seconds rest then 1 min rest. I repeated it 3 times. I realize it's a little confusing to type out..
7 seconds pull,
3 seconds rest,
7 seconds pull,
3 seconds rest,
7 seconds pull,
1 min rest,
7 seconds pull,
3 seconds rest,
7 seconds pull,
3 seconds rest,
7 seconds pull,
1 min rest,
7 seconds pull,
3 seconds rest,
7 seconds pull,
3 seconds rest,
7 seconds pull
It would feel sore afterwards but not painful. After a few weeks it went away and I began doing harder climbs on it and it felt stronger than before. Hope this helps!
@@tjsclimbing4648 Such a detailed reply man, damn! Thanks a ton, definitely trying that ☺️
I know this is a bit late but maybe I get an answer!
I have pain on my DIP when half-crimping small holds (12mm or smaller).
Tha pain is acute, and goes away within seconds after hanging. Does this mean I am not overload, but my fingers are not ready for the acute load?
So would training on bigger edges and going slowly lower help?
Thanks :)
Hey really appreciate your video! would you be open for a quick 5min call to see if my acute injury is that serious ? 💌 Hopefully you see this in the next few days 😅
My dip is just a little uncomfortable what % of a 10 second 1rm could I use on a crimp block for active recovery?
🤔 【ｐｒｏｍｏｓｍ】