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Adjusting and Tuning the Head on the Frontier OS27 Sawmill.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2022
- I adjust the head which was out an 1/8th of an inch from one side to the other. An 1/8th over the 22 inches is pretty bad. It's an easy adjustment. Hope you enjoy and get something out of the video. Have a great day.
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I will be picking up a pair of these as well! Great modification Thanks
@BigelowWoodcraft
1 year ago
(4 Pack) PGN 6201-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing - C3-12x32x10 - Lubricated - Chrome Steel
They help out that's for sure.
I just ordered a new set of cables. I am unable to get the last sixteenth out of one side and I noticed the cables spread on the roller lift arm at different rates. The farther one spreads per revolution causes a difference in height between the two sides. I'm at the end of the adjustment. Also one of the cables has broken two strands, so it's time to change 'em anyway. Good video.
I throw a four foot level across the bunks just about daily as well as from one end to the other on the 21' length. Then double check after each adjustment of the jacks. I need to add the rollers to the tops of my log stops too. I check blade to bunk just like you did. Too far off and our cants become parallelograms quickly !!
@@tractorman4461 I've since replaced my cables with 1 inch screws. To lift the head. I was always adjusting those dang things. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Thanks Jerry. Let's say that my blade was off a bit more. Great info.
You're welcome.
Thanks for your videos Jerry!! picked up the same mill a few years back and now finally getting around to tuning it properly. thanks for your video I noticed I never put on the red thumbscrew 😂!!
Ha ha. I never put on my auto lube lol. It's still not on. Enjoy the mill. Stay safe. Thanks for the comment.
FINALLY! someone adjusts their blade correctly. As you saw, you can't rely on the tooth set to take your measurement; better to measure from the band. Using the mike is also MUCH more accurate than a tape measure. It's better to be as close to perfect as possible than to be "close enough". One of the BIG issues I have with my LT40 (and all of the WM cantilever-designed mills) is the inherent inaccuracy of the blade. Their design requires you to adjust the blade to be 1/16" high opposite the supports and assume that the saw head will deflect downward the correct amount when cutting.
A very informative video, Jerry.
Dave
Thank you Dave. I always wondered how WM addressed that on their cantilever systems.
Hi SIR..THANKS FOR THAT..WILL BE USEFUL ON SETTING UP OUR MILL...STILL IN BOX AT THE MOMENT..ITS WARM HERE BUT HAVING HEAVY RAIN AT THIS TIME.. THERE ARE SAYING THREE DAYS OF RAIN AND FLOODS HAVE FUN..DAVID AUS..
I'm going to keep an eye on it too see if it moves over time.
nice job on leveling up the saw head, as soon as the weather gets a little warmer here in Eastern Ky i will try the same process on my mill.
Thank you. I'm sure I'll notice a difference. Thank you for watching
Nice video, by the way. Will be helpful in dialing it in.
Thank you. Let me know if you need any further assistance
Maybe you can help me. The cuts are rounded at the top, not wavy. Do you know what the problem could be?
It sounds like a dull blade or not set properly. It could also be the blade guides need to be adjusted. If the blade is sharp it should cut flat regardless of the blade guides though. I actually just had that the other day my blade started raising and it created a curve on top just as you speak of. It could also be that you're milling too fast or not enough RPMs for the speed you're cutting. I would start with a new blade or a sharpened blade at the very least and see if that changes anything. Also make sure your blade guides are adjusted to about a playing card thickness above and below the blade itself. Don't use too much lubricant or the blade will slip and not be traveling quite as fast as you think it really is. The dead giveaway for a slipping blade is black on the lumber that you milled.
Another thing is make sure the blade is tensioned correctly. Frontier recommends 4 1/2 to 5 turns from the moment you take up the blade. I know I just threw a lot at you. Hopefully that helps. Let me know if this helped. Have a great day and stay safe.
What kinda calipers are those you used to measure the blade distance from the bunk..?
All my calipers are mitutoyo.
Can you share the part # for the bearings you added to your logstops? I have a OS27 and would like to do that to my stops.
(4 Pack) PGN 6201-2RS Sealed Ball Bearing - C3-12x32x10 - Lubricated - Chrome Steel
Thank you kindly sir! 👍
Hi Jerry. Do you happen to still have the instructions to put the trailer together? Mine did not come with them and I wanted to put it together this weekend. If not, thanks anyway
I do send me an email at bigelowwoodcraft@gmail.com and I'll send you pics of the pages
@@BigelowWoodcraft Thank you so very much. I sent the email.
I sent you the photos
Where did you get your angel for the extinctions
I believe you asked where did I get the angle iron for my extensions? I ordered the steel from a local machine shop I used to work at.
Jerry, I have a favor to ask. On your quarter scale, it looks like the distance from zero to the first quarter scale mark is exactly 3/4, 4/4, 5/4 etc. and the distance between every quarter scale mark thereafter is 1/8" more; 7/8", 1 1/8", 1 3/8" etc. Will you please confirm this for me?
Thanks, Dave.
Dave I just checked with a scale. You're correct. I can't believe you noticed that through by just watching the video lol. Nice job. So am I thinking correctly the first ones you referenced should be .060" lower?
Next time I cut I'll have to double check what the last boards turn out to be. On another not my 9/8 scale I never have used. When I'm at the mill I very rarely use my reading glasses for the scale. I always assumed it was 9/4s. I guess that will be nice for making one inch boards through the planer.
@@BigelowWoodcraft The reason I noticed your scale is that I was looking for it. The WM quarter scales I have (2 different scales) have ALL marks with the same offset INCLUDING the first mark. That means that, with the quarter scale "zeroed", the last quarter scale board of any thickness will be 1/8" thicker than the rest. My belief is that WM has a serious design flaw here. I am hoping to talk to someone in corporate engineering about this some day.
Now I want to find someone with a Woodland Mills and a Norwood to see what they do.
Thanks for taking the time.
Dave
You can’t even read the depth mic correct you said 5 the tape measure said 4.
I make mistakes
Measure the flat side of the blade not the tooth side the set is never ever perfect you may believe the set is perfect but it isn’t.
That's ideal or over the non set tooth