Amazon affiliate links to plasma cutter bought for CNC table, as well as the machine torch, consumables for each, and various other items for connecting everything (other helpful links are in the description): - CUT60DN Plasma Cutter: amzn.to/3LvjQQg - Consumables for it CUT60DN: amzn.to/3BT0EbE - PTM80 Machine Torch for CUT60DN: amzn.to/3LvIRL8 - Consumables for PTM80: amzn.to/3Uqrhfi - 1/4" Air Compressor Filter Regulator Combo: amzn.to/3QR4Mxn - Heavy Duty 304 Stainless Steel Drain Pan 8"x30"x2.5" (I bought two): amzn.to/3drTnq1 - AC to DC 24V 15A 360W Switching Power Supply Transformer 110V/220V: amzn.to/3BrRfGU - AC to DC 5V 5A 25W Switching Power Supply Driver 110V/220V: amzn.to/3UkykpY - AC Noise Suppressor Power EMI Filter 115/250V 20A CW4L2-20A-S: amzn.to/3xBxWts - TB6600 Stepper Motor Drivers 4A 9-42V CNC Controller for 42 57 86 Stepper Motor Nema17: amzn.to/3QRWUeN - Rubber Drive Belt GT2 Timing Belt 2mm Pitch 10mm Width, 10 Meters (32.8 Ft) Length: amzn.to/3DDfAMp - E-Stop Emergency Switch AC 400V Push Button PLUS 6pcs End Stops: amzn.to/3qXlZud - GE5030 Advanced Silicone 2 Window & Door Sealant, 10.1oz, Black: amzn.to/3qOH0HB - Fast-Blow Glass Fuses (Pack of 20) BOJACK 5x20mm 2A 2amp 250V 0.2 x 0.78 Inch F2AL250V: amzn.to/3Uo96XJ - Fast-Blow Ceramic Fuses (Pack of 10) 13A 250V 6x25mm Cartridge Tube: amzn.to/3Sj0pMs - Fast-Blow Glass Tube Fuse Kit, 175 Pcs, 5X20mm: amzn.to/3xx0Fj9 - Heavy duty 15 FT Extension Cord, 14 Gauge, 125V, 15 Amps, 1875 Watts: amzn.to/3By2uxz - You'll also need an Air Compressor. This is not my exact model, but it's close: 20 Gallon Ultra Quiet Air Compressor: amzn.to/3xCfXTK
I know that I'm late to the party on this one, but don't forget instead of cutting out a part that can jam you up, you can completely pocket it out, so it turns into sawdust and won't mess with your machine. Yes, it's quite a bit more sawdust, but you won't have those loose parts kicking around. Machinists habitually turn everything they don't need into chips, but us woodworkers think about cutting parts out.
On a side note, check out Varathane Wood Hardener to turn MDF into plastic. It's a one-part liquid that will turn your MDF rock hard for much more durable projects.
Sure. But first, I have two LowRider 3's and two cable chains. My red & black LR3 carries a router (seen in this video) and uses smaller store-bought drag chain. My blue & black (with some red) LR3 carries a plasma torch and uses larger, 3d-printed drag chain. I'm assuming you are referring to the smaller as shown in this video. Details and printable files for the mounts for the smaller store-bought drag chain are here: www.printables.com/model/223004-lowrider-3-cnc-drag-chain-mount-v10 - and the smaller drag chain I bought and used is this one: amzn.to/3ttnDpb - By contrast if you are ever interested in the larger drag chain (not needed for normal LR3's but only for when large cables, such as for plasma, are in use), you can go here: www.printables.com/model/250838-drag-chain-for-cnc-two-piece-snap-open-20mm-x-40mm - and here: www.printables.com/model/253880-lowrider-3-plasma-cnc-drag-chain-mount-revised-for
@@4kguys I just subscribed to your TH-cam channel. I try to always follow / subscribe other V1E based fellows here and on Printables etc. If you get a chance, subscribe / follow me here and on Printables. Let me know your Printables link if you have an account I will follow you there too.
@@4kguys If you did not already see it, check out my latest video today!! First cut with LowRider 3 plasma table! th-cam.com/video/gU-OKSPN5ak/w-d-xo.html
There's lot of aluminum cutting by LowRiders, including v2 and v3. Success is aided by air assist to blow chips out so they don't get rewelded onto the stock. Also misting with alcohol to keep things cool. I bought the compressor and other stuff for the air assist (includes the misting components) but I have not installed it yet. My first and only cutting of aluminum was without air assist and I suffered the issue of rewelding of chips. It also seems dependent on having right feeds and speeds.
Hello. I'm building a lowraider v3. I'm thinking of making the yz plates in 10mm aluminum, is that something that would be an advantage? would like to know your views on it. Best regards/josef
The default suggested spec in the docs is MDF that is 1/2" (12.7mm) and since aluminum is stronger than MDF (Ryan sells aluminum XZ plates that are only 1/4", or 6.35mm, thick) I'd say that 6.35mm thick aluminum would be fine for YZ plates, and 10mm would definitely be strong enough. 10mm is probably overkill.
@@design8studio thank you for responding so quickly. I have a friend who owns a water cutter and he offered to cut these out for me. do you know what the hole diameter is on the linear guides? My hardware kit is still in transit so i cant messure
@@josefsnickare Without looking I'm not positive on the hole diameter but I'm thinking it's the size for tapping threads for 2.5mm screws. You or the friend can download the cut file for it and measure, or just look at the specs for the linear rails.
The LowRider v3 shown here that I used to make the plates is a full sheet size. It is big enough to do cuts anywhere on a 49“ x 97“ MDF sheet. And of course it’s able to do full size plywood sheets at 48” x 96”.
There is a LowRider Calculator on the V1 Engineering website (v1e.com) that lets you put in what usable cut area you would like, and then tells you how big your table needs to be to accommodate that. I think its normal output value for an X gantry big enough for a full size table is 1425 mm - and for reasons explained in one of my videos, I added 10 mm onto that, so my gantry length is 1435 mm.
My LowRider v3 with a router is on a full sheet table that can cut up to 49" x 97". My LowRider v3 with a plasma torch can cut something like about 30" x 49" or so.
Before I switched to ESTLcam, I used the free version of Easel (inventables.com). Easel is operated on a "freemium" basis where a pricey subscription blocks nicer features from free users. Its learning curve is shallow but several things were super annoying. ESTLcam is awesome, and much cheaper, plus I prefer a one-time purchase over a subscription. Really liking ESTLcam.
@@design8studio thanks so much for the reply. What do you use for drawing up your models or do you do everything in Estlcam? I seem to see you doing lots in it. And thanks for the lowrider 3 insights. It really seems to be a more stable and robust design and not much more expensive. You talked about end stops being really important. In one of your future videos could you talk over some of the other precision and reliability aspects that you see with the lowrider3 over the lowrider2. You may have sneaked such things in on other videos but there are so many. I haven’t found it yet. Thanks again for your response.
@@frederickwood9116 I use SketchUp (free version) a lot for designing in 3D, but whenever I need to work in 2D (like for milling flat parts) I am often in CorelDraw for CAD (editing lines and curves, and setting up layout) before heading to ESTLcam for the CAM (outputting the cut files). Sometimes a design starts as 3D in SketchUp and then a 2D export gets it moved to CorelDraw.
@@frederickwood9116 I will consider trying to do a comparison of LR3 to LR2. Ryan has explained (in engineering sense) in several different posts and places some of what makes the LR3 better, and I could probably only do a poor job of emulating what he says so well. Its rigidity is so well thought out, and it accomplishes that with clever use of surprisingly affordable materials (when built and done according to the planned approach). The attention to areas that are normally weak, which primarily would involve unsupported runs across distance, perpendicular connections without enough bracing, and moving parts under too much stress, are areas where his genius has provided great innovations and progress. He took an already great and workable design, and figured out ways to do even better.
@@design8studio ok. SketchUp is very accessible so it’s nice to know it’s got more relevance for me. I confess I smile a little when you say CoralDraw. I remember when the brand was the bees knees along with token ring networks lol.
Amazon affiliate links to plasma cutter bought for CNC table, as well as the machine torch, consumables for each, and various other items for connecting everything (other helpful links are in the description):
- CUT60DN Plasma Cutter: amzn.to/3LvjQQg
- Consumables for it CUT60DN: amzn.to/3BT0EbE
- PTM80 Machine Torch for CUT60DN: amzn.to/3LvIRL8
- Consumables for PTM80: amzn.to/3Uqrhfi
- 1/4" Air Compressor Filter Regulator Combo: amzn.to/3QR4Mxn
- Heavy Duty 304 Stainless Steel Drain Pan 8"x30"x2.5" (I bought two): amzn.to/3drTnq1
- AC to DC 24V 15A 360W Switching Power Supply Transformer 110V/220V: amzn.to/3BrRfGU
- AC to DC 5V 5A 25W Switching Power Supply Driver 110V/220V: amzn.to/3UkykpY
- AC Noise Suppressor Power EMI Filter 115/250V 20A CW4L2-20A-S: amzn.to/3xBxWts
- TB6600 Stepper Motor Drivers 4A 9-42V CNC Controller for 42 57 86 Stepper Motor Nema17: amzn.to/3QRWUeN
- Rubber Drive Belt GT2 Timing Belt 2mm Pitch 10mm Width, 10 Meters (32.8 Ft) Length: amzn.to/3DDfAMp
- E-Stop Emergency Switch AC 400V Push Button PLUS 6pcs End Stops: amzn.to/3qXlZud
- GE5030 Advanced Silicone 2 Window & Door Sealant, 10.1oz, Black: amzn.to/3qOH0HB
- Fast-Blow Glass Fuses (Pack of 20) BOJACK 5x20mm 2A 2amp 250V 0.2 x 0.78 Inch F2AL250V: amzn.to/3Uo96XJ
- Fast-Blow Ceramic Fuses (Pack of 10) 13A 250V 6x25mm Cartridge Tube: amzn.to/3Sj0pMs
- Fast-Blow Glass Tube Fuse Kit, 175 Pcs, 5X20mm: amzn.to/3xx0Fj9
- Heavy duty 15 FT Extension Cord, 14 Gauge, 125V, 15 Amps, 1875 Watts: amzn.to/3By2uxz
- You'll also need an Air Compressor. This is not my exact model, but it's close: 20 Gallon Ultra Quiet Air Compressor: amzn.to/3xCfXTK
I know that I'm late to the party on this one, but don't forget instead of cutting out a part that can jam you up, you can completely pocket it out, so it turns into sawdust and won't mess with your machine. Yes, it's quite a bit more sawdust, but you won't have those loose parts kicking around. Machinists habitually turn everything they don't need into chips, but us woodworkers think about cutting parts out.
On a side note, check out Varathane Wood Hardener to turn MDF into plastic. It's a one-part liquid that will turn your MDF rock hard for much more durable projects.
Thanks!
Do you have link for the cable chain you used and the STL for connecting it? I want to clean the wires up on mine and love the look of yours
Sure. But first, I have two LowRider 3's and two cable chains. My red & black LR3 carries a router (seen in this video) and uses smaller store-bought drag chain. My blue & black (with some red) LR3 carries a plasma torch and uses larger, 3d-printed drag chain. I'm assuming you are referring to the smaller as shown in this video. Details and printable files for the mounts for the smaller store-bought drag chain are here: www.printables.com/model/223004-lowrider-3-cnc-drag-chain-mount-v10 - and the smaller drag chain I bought and used is this one: amzn.to/3ttnDpb - By contrast if you are ever interested in the larger drag chain (not needed for normal LR3's but only for when large cables, such as for plasma, are in use), you can go here: www.printables.com/model/250838-drag-chain-for-cnc-two-piece-snap-open-20mm-x-40mm - and here: www.printables.com/model/253880-lowrider-3-plasma-cnc-drag-chain-mount-revised-for
@@design8studio Wow! Thank you for the fast response. This is exactly what I was looking for!
@@4kguys I just subscribed to your TH-cam channel. I try to always follow / subscribe other V1E based fellows here and on Printables etc. If you get a chance, subscribe / follow me here and on Printables. Let me know your Printables link if you have an account I will follow you there too.
@@4kguys If you did not already see it, check out my latest video today!! First cut with LowRider 3 plasma table! th-cam.com/video/gU-OKSPN5ak/w-d-xo.html
Would love to see how this table handles some aluminum.
There's lot of aluminum cutting by LowRiders, including v2 and v3. Success is aided by air assist to blow chips out so they don't get rewelded onto the stock. Also misting with alcohol to keep things cool. I bought the compressor and other stuff for the air assist (includes the misting components) but I have not installed it yet. My first and only cutting of aluminum was without air assist and I suffered the issue of rewelding of chips. It also seems dependent on having right feeds and speeds.
Hello. I'm building a lowraider v3. I'm thinking of making the yz plates in 10mm aluminum, is that something that would be an advantage? would like to know your views on it. Best regards/josef
The default suggested spec in the docs is MDF that is 1/2" (12.7mm) and since aluminum is stronger than MDF (Ryan sells aluminum XZ plates that are only 1/4", or 6.35mm, thick) I'd say that 6.35mm thick aluminum would be fine for YZ plates, and 10mm would definitely be strong enough. 10mm is probably overkill.
@@design8studio thank you for responding so quickly. I have a friend who owns a water cutter and he offered to cut these out for me. do you know what the hole diameter is on the linear guides? My hardware kit is still in transit so i cant messure
@@josefsnickare Without looking I'm not positive on the hole diameter but I'm thinking it's the size for tapping threads for 2.5mm screws. You or the friend can download the cut file for it and measure, or just look at the specs for the linear rails.
@@design8studio i will do that thank you
Which Size is your Lowrider 3?
The LowRider v3 shown here that I used to make the plates is a full sheet size. It is big enough to do cuts anywhere on a 49“ x 97“ MDF sheet. And of course it’s able to do full size plywood sheets at 48” x 96”.
There is a LowRider Calculator on the V1 Engineering website (v1e.com) that lets you put in what usable cut area you would like, and then tells you how big your table needs to be to accommodate that. I think its normal output value for an X gantry big enough for a full size table is 1425 mm - and for reasons explained in one of my videos, I added 10 mm onto that, so my gantry length is 1435 mm.
What size is your machine?
My LowRider v3 with a router is on a full sheet table that can cut up to 49" x 97". My LowRider v3 with a plasma torch can cut something like about 30" x 49" or so.
I can’t find it but I’m sure you already talked about why you use Estlcam can you give me a pointer.
Thanks.
Before I switched to ESTLcam, I used the free version of Easel (inventables.com). Easel is operated on a "freemium" basis where a pricey subscription blocks nicer features from free users. Its learning curve is shallow but several things were super annoying. ESTLcam is awesome, and much cheaper, plus I prefer a one-time purchase over a subscription. Really liking ESTLcam.
@@design8studio thanks so much for the reply.
What do you use for drawing up your models or do you do everything in Estlcam? I seem to see you doing lots in it.
And thanks for the lowrider 3 insights. It really seems to be a more stable and robust design and not much more expensive.
You talked about end stops being really important. In one of your future videos could you talk over some of the other precision and reliability aspects that you see with the lowrider3 over the lowrider2.
You may have sneaked such things in on other videos but there are so many. I haven’t found it yet.
Thanks again for your response.
@@frederickwood9116 I use SketchUp (free version) a lot for designing in 3D, but whenever I need to work in 2D (like for milling flat parts) I am often in CorelDraw for CAD (editing lines and curves, and setting up layout) before heading to ESTLcam for the CAM (outputting the cut files). Sometimes a design starts as 3D in SketchUp and then a 2D export gets it moved to CorelDraw.
@@frederickwood9116 I will consider trying to do a comparison of LR3 to LR2. Ryan has explained (in engineering sense) in several different posts and places some of what makes the LR3 better, and I could probably only do a poor job of emulating what he says so well. Its rigidity is so well thought out, and it accomplishes that with clever use of surprisingly affordable materials (when built and done according to the planned approach). The attention to areas that are normally weak, which primarily would involve unsupported runs across distance, perpendicular connections without enough bracing, and moving parts under too much stress, are areas where his genius has provided great innovations and progress. He took an already great and workable design, and figured out ways to do even better.
@@design8studio ok. SketchUp is very accessible so it’s nice to know it’s got more relevance for me. I confess I smile a little when you say CoralDraw. I remember when the brand was the bees knees along with token ring networks lol.