For LowRider v3 CNC, full sheet capable table, Part 2, CNC cut & assembly!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 เม.ย. 2023
- * Kreg Accu-Cut XL: amzn.to/3Afft75
* Laser Level: amzn.to/3ov5kAm
* Black & Decker drill: amzn.to/43Paibq
* LR3 hidden long belt setup: www.printables.com/model/4224...
* Extenders/tensioners: www.printables.com/model/2201...
* Other extenders/tensioners: www.printables.com/model/4170...
* Dust Port for Skilsaw Classic: www.printables.com/model/1273...
* Hooks for Kreg Accu-Cut XL: www.printables.com/model/1578...
IMPORTANT: I did remember to enable the “Overcut” feature in Estlcam so the inside corners would not be a problem.
#### Huge thanks to Ryan of V1 Engineering, not only for all his design genius that I parroted for this, but also for releasing his table design. I offer multiple Fusion 360 files (parametric, editable) for both wood sides versions and metal-strut version, DXF files, and cut-ready DXF cut plans (for 23/32" thick 4'x8' sheets):
Download links for CNC Table with Wood Sides and with Metal Strut Sides:
design8studio.com/for-lowride...
*IMPORTANT:* This is all based on 23/32″ thick sheet for torsion box, and which can be cut from a single 4’x8′ sheet.
**Measure your plywood / MDF, and if it's different from 0.719” (18.25 mm) thickness, then you'll need to download the Fusion 360 file, edit the user parameters, & change the value of the parameter named Slot_Width**. Then in each component, right-click on the sketch identified as “for DXF”, & choose “Save as DXF” to export it. The only two components affected by this are the “X Ribs” and “Main Y Spars” (which make the main body of the torsion box).
**For the metal rails version, only one 4’x8′ sheet is needed for the torsion box**, with off-cut strips from the MDF “bottom skin” serving as side rail supports for the metal struts.
*NOTE:* for the metal strut rails version, you can download and use my *printable table extenders* that insert into metal struts to provide endstop/tensioner support. The link is:
www.printables.com/model/2201...
*Note:* My design plan calls for a 1/2″ thick MDF “top skin” on the torsion box, which is considered “permanent,” and then a sacrificial 1/2″ thick MDF spoil board on top of that. If you only re-surface the sacrifice layer, then the torsion box itself only has to endure maybe screw holes from attaching things, and should not need much attention when time comes to replace the spoil board. If this plan is not your cup of tea, you can edit the X Rib sketch and the resulting solid body to change the wing heights as needed.
Inspired by Ryan’s [3D “napkin sketch” illustration](forum.v1e.com/t/ryan-please-s...) of a CNC-cut table for LR3…
*Benefits*
* Affordable, requiring only one (1) 4’x8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood / MDF for the torsion box, and for the “riding plates” (also referred to as “side rails”) either a second 4’x8′ sheet, 1/2" thick (of either MDF / OSB / particle board / plywood), or two (2) 10′ metal struts (aka “superstrut,” aka “unistrut”). As of April 2023, my material cost locally for the 3/4" plywood + 2 unistruts approach is $140 (not including the 1/2" MDF sheets for bottom skin, top skin, and sacrificial spoil board layer, or screws, bolts, etc).
* Incredibly strong torsion box design, helps make the task of getting a decently flat table more within reach.
* Can be “bootstrapped” for new LowRider v3 makers who don’t yet have a table, through making a temporary cut surface by laying a spoil board “stack” on the flattest floor you have available, flanked by some boards for the LR3 to ride on, clamped to the spoil board stack.
* CNC cutting of the X ribs and Y spars helps ensure proper dimensions, ease of assembly, greater stability, and best shot at flatness.
* Compatible with my mod to protect/hide one of the long side belts. If you choose the option for metal strut side rails, my mod is ready to implement. If you choose the wooden side rails option, some remixing would be required.
*Online Preview Links*
* F360 preview in browser for LR3 table with wooden side rails: a360.co/40E0n6C
* F360 preview in browser for LR3 table with metal strut side rails: a360.co/3MAcb5D
V1 Engineering Documentation, Low Rider CNC, v3:
docs.v1e.com/lowrider
My PayPal tip jar: paypal.me/design8studio
Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:
www.printables.com/social/127...
View all my models and remixes on Printables:
www.printables.com/social/127...
*Amazon product links are affiliate links.
BEAUTIFUL! It's crazy seeing it go from a sketchup model into a real world object! Looks great! I'm gonna cut one as soon as I get to that point!
Awesome! Let us see what you build and what you make with it!
Pure gold. You've earned a sub, Doug. I'm hoping to cut mine in the next week.
Cool! Looking forward to seeing your build!
@@design8studio Have the torsion box struts all assembled. I programmed in a tolerance of only 0.010" on the struts and also glued it all together and WOW. I had to use all my clamps to get it together. Couldn't have been more perfect of a fit. Putting on the top and bottom skins later today.
@@unbrokenground5694 that is so cool! If you get a chance, please post photos of your work on this on the forum at v1e.com!
@@unbrokenground5694 take pics! Take videos if you can!!
Man I ordered all the v3 lowrider parts months ago and printed all the bits. I just never put it together. I always do this with projects. I was so amped to do this 2 months ago. Now it's just a box of parts and a nice new Makita
You can do it! Delays are ok. Hopefully you can make time.
How did it go? 😅
Cutting the table now and I got to tell you this vid and your site was of course super helpful! I really appreciate your design work and even though I am a total Fusion 360 noob, this was pretty easy to mod for my 3/4" thick MDF. Of note to others, the get to the "User Parameters", Click Design > Solid > Modify > Change Parameters . The Parameters dialog displays.
Awesome! Thank you!
Looks like I'll be following in both of your footsteps in about a month! this advice is wonderful
Your videos are amazing! Keep it up!
Thanks! Sometimes it is hard to make time to edit and post but kind words like yours encourage me!
I'm bootstrapping one of these off the basement floor. What a great design!
Regarding the design- I basically tweaked Ryan’s napkin sketch! And learned how to do parametric driven Fusion 360 stuff!
Take video if you can or at least pics!! Post on the V1E forum!
Looks great 👍
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much Sir, for your hard work and diligence, i watched every second of the video just watching the workflow, it helped a lot :)
😊 Glad it helped!
@@design8studio Hi there Joseph, i finally finished my Lowrider 3 and will cut you table design in 1/2 inch ply, but i was not able to find the fusion file to modiiy the parameters, did i miss something, hope you can guide me in the right direction :)
@@13blackandblue13 Congratulations on getting your LowRider completed! The link to the download page is in the video’s description. However, since you are using 1/2” plywood instead of 3/4”, may I suggest you bump the height of the table up. Consider using either the 6 inch or the 8 inch version on this page: forum.v1e.com/t/more-parametric-cnc-cut-tables-for-lowrider-v3-full-sheet-3-625-6-and-8-tall-versions/37819?u=dougjoseph
Thanks for sharing.
Mess up inclusion is really important. There is so much to learn from mess ups. (Our own or someone else’s)
This is so obviously true, and yet I still struggle every time, with the urge to delete the mess-ups.
I'm going to try to dry assemble all the parts this weekend because this is ridiculous haha
wow its amazing table project Its looks less stressing on the balancing side and easy moving almost portable......I will look forward for my lowrider v3.........keep up I really enjoyed watching...... 👍
It could be moved with help from a friend. The MDF skins on the top and bottom add some weight. Without them, the frame itself is not heavy at all.
@@design8studio am planning to build one for my lowrider 3 48x96 inches do I need to resize it or I can just go directly cutting.....
@@Raeglar whether you can use the existing cut plan depends on whether your material thickness matches the existing thickness variable in the drawing. If not, it would need editing. :-)
@@design8studiowhat's the required thickness.?
@@Raeglar there is no required thickness, other than the thickness of whatever material you buy. The cut plans that I outputted were set for a thickness of 23/32”. However, even if you buy some sheet material that says it is that thickness, you would need to measure with calipers to verify. It’s common for it to say one thing and actually be slightly different. If you wanted to do some other thickness, there is a way to open the fusion 360 file that I provide, and edit the user parameter for material thickness, and then re-output the DXF’s that are affected by that, which would be the ribs and spars.
I followed you back then and your vids are amazing. I just want to finish this project/goal already and learn how to use the software. I don't get why I always do things 85%
Thanks for the kind words! I’m pulling for you!!
Perfect! Thank you so much for doing this Doug. Would you be able to disclose your gantry EMT tube length for your strut channel version of the table?
Sure
So, the length shown in the graphic (link below) will work, and there is some latitude here. 56.1" (shown in graphic) will get your roller bearing wheels about centered on the unistrut. In my specific table, my tubes are stainless steel (25.4mm dia), cut to 56.5" length (1435mm). That has my (near side) roller bearing wheels rather close to the edge of the unistrut. That meant my "standoffs" could be shorter, for my setup to hide the long belt on the near side. If you use 56.1" for your length (1425mm), you can use the same setup, you would just need to get the "standoffs" to be 0.4" longer, either by remix or by scaling in slicer. i0.wp.com/design8studio.com/files/Screen-Shot-2023-04-11-at-5.36.07-PM-X-Gantry-Placement-X-axis-Tube-Length-etc.png
If you go with the same measurement as mine, 56.5" (1435mm), then the table extenders I linked should work. If you go with 56.1" you might need to remix a set of the printed table extenders.
I will make a new graphic so there is one for metal side rails and one for wood side rails.
@@design8studio gotchya! I just cut my 23.4mm tubes to 56.1 so I’ll work on getting that extra 0.4” adjustment and go that route. I think I’m understanding you correctly, or would I be good to go since my tubes are slightly smaller than yours? Thanks for all the help!
Hi, Doug. Wonderful video, you are probably the best source of information for the LR3.
I'm really new here, I just built my LR but I'm still on the squaring process so I have a few questions regarding this video:
Why do you use 1/4" bits instead of 1/8"? Isn't it more work load to remove 1/4" lines of material?
Also, how do you choose what type of wood to use for the table? Why does it have MDF on the top and bottom (well, OSB) and OSB on the sides where the rail is attached? Why didn't you use Plywood for everything?
Thank you for all the effort and help you bring to the community!
Hello, and thanks for the kind words! Really the two best source of information on the LR3 are Ryan, the creator of it, and the V1E.com/forum group. If you're not already a member of the forum, please join asap, and if the questions you have are not readily found in searches, then posting the questions there helps answer the questions for other makers! As for 1/4" bit over 1/8" - while it's a bit more wood to be removed, it's worth it because the thicker bit has less deflection (bending) and with its added strength and rigidity, it can be more accurate while still using a quicker feed rate. I have broken off 1/8" bits, but never 1/4" bits. The only ways I've damaged 1/4" bits was either running them through screws, or running them at too high RPM causing heat which results in burning the bit too badly. The latter was a rookie mistake not made often. Re. what type of wood to use for what: Ryan, the designer of the LowRider CNC and the founder of V1 Engineering, has formal engineering training (and I don't) so he's the source I am paraphrasing here. For when the goal is dimensional accuracy and least chance of twisting, warping, cupping, and bowing, the order of preference is: MDF, OSB, Plywood, and dead last is regular, unprocessed lumber. He has semi-explained this as, the more processed a wood is, the more it resists bowing, cupping, twisting, and warping. Adding to that some of my own understanding, is that after a certain point of processing, a wood substance can also lose some ability to take and hold a screw, because the more homogenous it gets, there is a risk of reduced tensile strength. Particle board is highly processed but does not use as much adhesive as MDF, so although particle board is highly processed, it has low tensile strength, and is horrible at holding screws. MDF holds screws better than particle board, but not as good as OSB and plywood. My suggestion for a torsion box would be to use MDF for the ribs and spars, and a thin sheet of MDF for the bottom skin, and glue the skins on instead of just screws (I did not, and I kinda wish I had done that), and a thin MDF sheet for the top skin (again glued on) and thicker MDF for a spoil board. If you want to use screws for material hold-down, and you want them to have the best biting and holding power, consider the top order being, thin MDF top skin (glued down), and then a layer of say, 1/2" OSB, and a final spoil board layer of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF. The latter two would obviously be screwed down, not glued down. A spoil board presumably is desirable to be removable for replacement.
@@design8studio Thanks for the super detailed explanation. Exactly what I needed! Now that part where you said that you've damaged bits by burning them due to high RPM got me worried, as the router I bought has a fixed speed at 34500 RPM and I'm guessing that not being able to control it would burn off bits more often
@@octimus2000 Re. router speed control is something you will definitely want. Check out this one: www.v1e.com/blogs/news/kobalt-router-featuring-the-lr3
@@octimus2000www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt/5014100299
@@octimus2000 th-cam.com/video/EenSuQUbFjg/w-d-xo.html
Awesome work. Im in love with that table build. Im the one who asked for a bigger table build... Have you nanaged to fix the issue with the f360 file?
Yes, I replied on the forum about that. Did you see the new replies?
Here's a link to all the parametric tables I've posted. In particular, the page with the 3 height options, 3.625", 6" and 8" - has F360 files more robust and requiring less attention when changes are made, but by posting several sizes, hopefully changes are not needed. forum.v1e.com/tag/parametric-table
Also, check out this reply I posted for you, including a Fusion 360 file at the table size (width of table) you had mentioned: forum.v1e.com/t/cnc-cut-table-for-lowrider-v3-parameterized-for-cutting-full-sheets/37579/167?u=dougjoseph
Hi Doug,
Do you find the Unistrut not being perfectly flat affect the quality of your cuts? On some of my projects, some sections I would only be putting a dado in and not cutting all the way through. I am just wary of the dado being sloped.
These metal struts could possibly have dents or bends in them inflicted during shipping to the store or something. It’s probably like shopping for lumber - you want to check to make sure they’re straight before you take it home. They’re hard enough to bend that if you get one that’s straight at the store it’s probably gonna still be straight for you. If you eyeball it from the end, can you see a high spot or low spot? I don’t seem to have issues.
Hi Doug, finally got 90% of my parts printed, just need to print a case for the skr pro and the mounting brackets for the makita, do you know where I can find these? Opted for the biqu b1 SE Plus after your recommendation, I have the LR3 hardware kit and I’m almost ready to start building, I am going for 1.5mm wall stainless 1” tubing but i also have the option to get 3mm wall tubing, do you think the 3mm wall would be overkill and cause sagging issues due to weight difference? Thanks for your help so far too!
On my printable‘s account I have quite a few remixes that are all printable cases for an SKR board of a certain type. I don’t know for sure that they would fit yours, but maybe, even ikely. Also, on my Printables, I have a variety of remixes of mounts for the Makita router. If you would like to use Ryan’s original Makita router mount it is also on Printables, on his account. When I get a chance, I can try to find specific links and come back with those. Regarding the thick wall tubes, the LowRider can lift an amount of weight enormously greater than the default design. There is a video of a LowRider with a massive amount of weights, like used for weight lifting, added onto the gantry and moving up and down with those weights added, and having no problems with accuracy or speed. I would say if you could get the thicker wall to go ahead and get it. If not the other would be great too.
Hello Doug! I am working on building this torsion box setup and using your Unistrut dual hidden belt design. I was wondering if you could tell me how long exactly your 3 conduit tubes are on the strut so that I may use that for a reference to get the width just right?
Sure. As shown on the documentation page linked below, my gantry is 1435 mm in length. I think the V1E calculator recommends 1425 mm. Either can work (the shorter one by compensating with longer "standoffs" on the hidden belt mod on the side opposite the Y-rail). Be aware that my 1435 mm gantry has my X-max side assembly riding pretty close to the edge of the metal strut. design8studio.com/for-lowrider-v3-cnc-cut-table-dxfs-for-cutting-f360-archives-docs/
Thanks Doug! I want to say that I am thoroughly impressed/appreciative of your organizational skills, and ability to lay out a project for those of us without such skills!
@@clayscustom Thanks! I’m human and I make mistakes. I appreciate when people cut me slack when they find that I have made a mistake.
Couldn't you double up on spoil board and resurface a few times so the CNC essentially self levels?
You can generally always use surfacing to correct for lack of flatness, however, the flatter your surface is (to begin with) the better. Surfacing a table that is very "unflat" will mean an enormous waste of MDF spoil board being turned to dust, and it seriously reduces how many "re-surfacings" you can get out of a sheet. The bigger a table is, the more flatness matters. 1% dome or dip on a small table is no big deal. Surfacing that won't take deep cuts. But that same amount of curvature on a big table means the surfacing cuts have to be very deep. Always best to start as flat as is reasonably doable, before surfacing.
love this keep it upp bro
the cutting area of this is 4ft x 8ft correct?
Yes, and actually a bit bigger. It's made to cut 49" wide by 97" long, because MDF sheets come 1" bigger in both directions, and the idea is to be able to flatten (resurface) the entire MDF sheet!
@@design8studio great stuff, where im from 4x8 is the biggest ply and MDF comes in I'm from Trinidad the Carribbean
@@jj8482 This would have you covered with room to spare!
Just made mines only prob I didn't get the exact struts you used so I have to make some changes to the rail files
@@jj8482 cool! Post pics of your work on the V1E.Com forum if you can!
Hello . now that some time has passed and you have used your new torision box. Is there anything you would have done differently or is everything working perfectly? it will be my next project so that's why I'm asking.
I wish I had done MDF on the bottom, according to my original plan, instead of OSB - as that would have gotten ribs for support at the very edges. Now that I think about it, I would probably have not cut strips off of the bottom sheet, and would have spaced it so the ribs ended right at the edge of the MDF on both the top and the bottom. I’m nitpicking.
@@design8studio ok i will build mine of 22mm mdf
What tool bit did you use for your resurfacing? Curious to know so i can get one :)
I used this one! amzn.to/3tJzBOo
@@design8studio ordered! You mind sharing your aspire settings for that bit? As I have basically the same setup as yours.
Also would you recommend going a larger bit like 2” or stay with the 1” bit?
just wondering why didnt you use the cnc to cut and drill the osb and mdf seems it would have been a lot less work
Believe it or not, that idea never really occurred to me. 🙂
@@design8studio lol hindsight is 2020 right
Yep. :-)@@linearburn8838
I think it's just the knowhow. I started with a desktop cnc from alien something. It was nice, but after assembly, I never actually got it going. I already knew that I wouldn't understand the GERBL stuff.
The most popular software for preparing cut files is ESTLcam, at least among all our community. It’s easy. There are lots of videos on how to use it.
hey how long should i cut the metal struts for this design?
In the Fusion 360 file there are models that mock up the metal struts, and that length and placement is based on reality for my setup. You can use the Measure tool (hot key "I") to measure distances and lengths. Bottom line is my plan called for 114" long struts, with 8.25" stick out on the front (from the first X-rib to end of struts) and 11.25" stick out on the back.
design8studio.com/for-lowrider-v3-cnc-cut-table-dxfs-for-cutting-f360-archives/#F360-archives
Dumb question...what screws did you use to assemble the torsion box? I'd 1-1/4 good enough? I don't wanna split the sides of the 3/4" MDF struts
You probably saw where I was pre-drilling for each screw. That helps with the potential problem of splitting. Also I did not glue the skins on, but quite a few people had said gluing them on makes for a stronger box. If gluing then using short screws is not a problem. Using long screws has pros and cons. Pros: more threads provide better holding power (short screws could more easily strip out). Cons: could possibly split the material (which leads back to the pre-drilling).
I'm not positive but I think I was using screws 1 1/2" inch or so long.
What are good alternatives for the super strut? They run me 700 euro in Europe it seems? Would a normal u profile work? Perhaps in 3 mm thickness? Ofcourse you’d have to drill the hole yourself and make sure the size is the same as the superstrut
Here in the US, MDF wood trim strips are sold longer than 8 feet, and they can be used to make a wooden riding rail. Also, even if you can’t get strips longer than 8 feet, gluing a couple of strips of MDF together can make a wooden writing plate. As far as metal alternatives go, I am sure that some U-channel would be fine, and I don’t think it needs to be quite 3 mm thick. Hole drilling is a task and the thicker the metal the harder that is. The two main brands we have here, superstrut and unistrut, are 12 gauge, which is 2.6 mm.
What is that black rope thing hanging off the back of your drill?
Are you referring to the power cord? Maybe this is a joke, poking fun at the fact that I don't use cordless battery operated tools? I don't care for batteries for such purposes.
@@design8studio Well I thought it was funny. Thanks for documenting your build.
Question - my Home Depot only seems to have 3/4" MDF...no 23/32". I know that's super close, but will that work? Also, how thick is your spoil board or did I miss where you said that. And yes, I'm copying you, lol
Here are some observations that may help on that. Sometimes "3/4" is just that, but sometimes (even often) it's only nominally that, and is actually something else. You always ought to measure with calipers, and if the actual thickness is different than the parameter value in the Fusion 360 file, you're better off to adjust the parameter value and re-output the DXF's again. I made it as easy as possible. The free hobby license of F360 can be used for this. My main download page, here, design8studio.com/for-lowrider-v3-cnc-cut-table-dxfs-for-cutting-f360-archives/ - has a link at the top that leads to an older page with documentation and tips, here, design8studio.com/for-lowrider-v3-cnc-cut-table-dxfs-for-cutting-f360-archives-docs/ - All that said, it may be possible to take torsion box ribs and spars that were cut with slightly too wide gaps on the cross lap joints, and yet by adding some shim type material to tighten, it can work. Even adding sawdust to glue could perhaps help.
Also, it's possible to edit the included DXF cut plans, using a 2D vector illustration program, to edit the width of the gaps for the cross lap joints. Free programs are available, such as Inkscape. I use CorelDraw. Care should be taken to adjust each gap in a uniform manner (ideally nudging both sides, but if only nudging one side, always nudge the same side).
Also, regarding the thickness of the spoil board, if memory serves, I think I used a 3/4" skin and a 1/2" spoil board on top, or vice versa. I wound up with my spoil board being about 1/2" higher than my rails that the LowRider rides on. However, that's not an issue for me, especially because I used Dan's (@Supraguy) extra tall YZ plates, so I don't have issues being able to lift my LowRider high enough to get under there for bit changes etc, and can work with somewhat thicker materials. Extremely thick would have the LR3 away from its most rigid height, which is all the way down, but the only really thick things I'm like to do might be flattening a slab or carving foam, so no biggie.
Curious how much Z travel you have. I have a slab for a table that I would like to face, the slab is 4” thick. Would that be possible? Or would I need to come up with some sort of drop table?
A drop table would be the best, strongest, most rigid way to tackle that kind of project with a LowRider. All CNC machines have an anchor area at which they are their most rigid, and as they extend away from that anchor area, they become less rigid. For most CNC’s that anchor area is at their highest point, and their weakness increases as they go down. The LowRider is designed to be the opposite. It gets more rigid as it goes down, and is at its most rigid, when it is at the bottom, closest to the material. So for flattening a slab, you would want the LowRider in the lower range of its operating capacity, and a drop table would allow you to rigidly fix the material in a way that the LowRider was able to reach it without having to go up into its less rigid, higher reaches. If you were talking about an inch or two, maybe 2 1/2, perhaps a drop table would not be needed. For a 4 inch reach - on a slab that thick - a drop table would be best. My extended height on mine is mainly for access, for being able to look up under, and reach up under it. I might be able to do some carving from its highest point on something soft like foam. But I wouldn’t want to do it with flattening a slab.
A set of detachable risers could be contrived that would allow you to have a LowRider that would operate as normal, and then switch to a drop table configuration, and back.
@@design8studio thanks for the suggestion. I did consider using u channel for the wheels to ride on and just putting that u channel on some risers as needed?
@@AnthonyWebb7 if you get a plan drawn up, post it on the V1E.com forum for input!
what are you building!
Some of the next things on my list include designing a bank of cabinets that can serve as a pedestal for the torsion box I just built, as well as providing storage, although I’m not 100% sure that I will build it so much as design it for another V1E maker, who has indicated an interest in it. I’m also continually making game boards that I sell on my Etsy shop.
And these are the 1 5/8t" x 1 5/8" Superstruts? My homedepot also has a 1 5/8" x 13/16"
Yes, and the Lowes listing for them is www.lowes.com/pd/Allied-Tube-Conduit/5002950743 - they have them at Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc under at least a couple of different brand names.
@@design8studio Got it, thanks! I am buying my wood on Tuesday, bootstrapping and busting out this table. My only difference is I am modding one of those metal bracket workbench kits Home Depot and Lowes sells as the bas of my CNC and just making it 3x6' instead of the 2x4'
@@CaptainFettCosplay Cool. In case you did not know about my Hidden Belts mod, it's something to consider. It takes advantage of the metal strut as a place to protect and hide the belt. www.printables.com/model/422468-lowrider-3-cnc-hidden-belts-mod-hideprotect-either
@@design8studio yup, I already have that sliced and waiting on my matching green ASA to get here to print it.
where is your second Y belt?
(On my LR3, my X and Y are flipped, but my answer will be as if they are not flipped.) One of my Y belts is as normal, but is "flown" out in mid-air off that side of the table, by way of 3D printed "wing extenders" - see first link. The other Y belt (on the near side) is hidden inside the metal strut - see second link:
www.printables.com/model/220187-lowrider-3-cnc-table-extenders-to-use-lr2-table-wi
www.printables.com/model/422468-lowrider-3-cnc-mod-hide-protect-one-of-the-y-axis-
In my previous reply, I linked to the printable table extenders. Those work for both sides. The "wings" on my near side don't stick out as far. My second link for hiding the near side belt inside the metal strut, makes the wing extenders on that side to be no longer needed.
This video shows both belts being reattached.
Tus pulmones. Mascara
👍
hi i was going to say this machine is crap because i built a small cnc and its feed rate was 50mm/min and i saw you going around at 34.5mm/s. My brain farted and i thought you were cutting at a slower speed that mine, i am currently printing the parts for my machine it will be an Ice blue machine
It's a capable machine.... There are LowRider makers who have pushed theirs faster and harder than I am doing here in this video!
@@design8studio if all goes well i just have the LR core and one more brace to print tomorrow
@@cryoine7194 wow you are making quick progress! Please consider posting pics on the V1E forum.