You don't have to take the potentiometer apart!!! Go to the automotive store or some place that sells electrical contact cleaner. Spray it inside the potentiometer and it will clean it just as good and safer than taking the thing apart. You deferentially don't want to be using any kind of wipes on it as it will leave debre you can't see. LPS Electrical Contact cleaner will clean them just like they came from the factory. FORGET TAKING THEM APART!! Also, if you go to an automotive parts store, they have Oxygen Sensor Cleaner that works just like LPS Electrical Contact Cleaner. Taking it apart is not a good idea and especially using a cleaning cloth rubbing delicate electrical contacts that are calibrated at the factory will pretty much undo what is trying to be done here. Trust me, do not attempt to take it apart USE ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER, it will do a better job than what this guy shows. Way better!!
+Hub001 No, that spray is designed to clean electronic parts without dis-assembly. It leaves no residue and is completely harmless to your electronic components. If do what this video suggests, then you will likely damage your potentiality; and will continue to have malfunctions with it.
+Hub001 Anywhere from 10 to 15 dollars, depending on where you go to get it. You won't need to use the whole can, so you can clean them about 5 times with one can of spray.
Guys, I followed every instruction and took apart all the pedals and cleaned them all. I used to run with 25% deadzone on the gas and clutch, and 50% on the brake because of these spikes. I considered buying something else. But then I saw this, and gave it a go. After an afternoon's worth of tinkering, it made all the difference. It's better than new. Adam, thank you so, so, so very much for this tutorial and fix. It works!
Much appreciated video! I was having this spiking problem, and I knew I probably had to clean the potentiometer, but I didn't think it could be opened without being broken. I thought that potentiometers were enclosed, sterile units that would get damaged if exposed to particles in the air. So I didn't know how to approach it. I'm glad you recorded the whole process. I would've been stuck trying to bend that first metal tab for a while. It still took me a long time too after seeing you do it. A skewer works very well with getting it off quickly and cleanly (the one I used had a very sharp and thin tip on it, perfect for the job.). Mine had rust almost completely covering the surface of the strip. I'm surprised that it was still working as well as it did before I cleaned it for having so much rust on it. I only noticed issues with my throttle pedal but I decided to just clean all three while I was at it. It took me a while but it was worth the effort. Unfortunately, I bent a set of the small metal arms on the sweeper with my clutch potentiometer and I couldn't figure out what it was! I was stumped for like two hours, maybe even more, just troubleshooting and trying to find the solution. Every thing about the potentiometer looked great; they're all in great condition. Eventually I found out what it was and fixed it. Thanks for the video. I've been dealing with this for probably a month or so. I have no idea when it started that's just when I noticed it was happening. Sorry for the uber-post of a TH-cam thank you comment. Thanks if you made it this far. :)
Absolutely great video and step by step tutorial. As long as you’re extremely careful, this is the best way to clean everything thoroughly and my G27’s throttle response is like new out of the box now. Thanks to this video, he just saved me $300.
Hi Adam, I was one of the guys that just sprayed the Potentiometer with Contact Cleaner, which does work, but only temporarily. However I was at the stage where I was spraying that sucker every week, which was both frustrating and annoying, so I decided to strip and clean it as per your video. I used cotton buds and Contact Cleaner and I got a lot of crap off the potentiometer. It took me a couple of hours, but I'm no electronics guy. Now its been months and my G29 is still driving like new. So spraying with Contact Cleaner does work, for a short time, but if you want to clean the potentiometer properly, I suggest that you strip it down as per Adam's video. Thanks Adam, I appreciate the video mate. Cheers :-)
Very nice and easy to understand guide - doesnt even need sound for it, just look and follow - and the text version with pics in the descritption is also still up!
Thanks for this tutorial! My pedals were spiking to the point I couldn't even start a race due to everything going crazy from the random pedal inputs. Works like new now after following the steps; though after reading comments I would recommend using an electrical contact spray rather than pulling the potentiometer apart, probably a bit safer in terms of longevity! Otherwise, thanks heaps for the upload!
TY very much, it solved my problem. A note to Joey B: I had the same idea (electrical contact cleaner) and things were worst and worster... The first time I found this tutorial 1 yr ago and I was scared to possibly damage the pedals. Now that it was completely unusable and unplayable, (couse of braking in the middle of a corner or countinuously braking on a straight track) I tried to follow this tutorial again, "only for the brake pedal, so in case of damage I still have the cluthc one) and I can assure that it solved my problem, now I have to do the same on the gas pedal. Was much better if I did 1 yr ago so, a tip to other users, do it soon as possible, couse thing in time will be always worster until you nervous system collapses. I apologize for my english. TY very much to Adam for this tutorial couse it can save a lot of money.
This video is nothing short of amazing. My pedals never and I mean NEVER worked better. Thank you so VERY VERY VERY much being a single dad on a budget you saved me a lot of breaking stuff or going without my stress reliever thank you again
Thanks for this! I just did it and it fixed my G29 throttle pedal flicker issue. Took me about couple hours though. Might have tried the contact cleaner spray if I had a shop selling it nearby, but I'm happy I've done this now. I'm pretty sure it will remain cleaner longer this way.
thanks a lot, you saved my pedals. I started doing this without checking if there was any tutorial, and I messed up when reassembling the plastic gears, so the pedals weren't working. But thanks to your video now I have solved it watching the correct position of the plastic gears
My pedals work fine thanks to this amazing step by step video, it was extremely helpful and i like the fact you dont just go "UsE COntACt CleAner SPrAy!" And take everything apart to show us the problem and how to repair it. Ive been playing forza horizon 4 and mudrunner all day now with no telemetry anomalies (60%~70%) so thanks for showing us what to do and helping me save £300.👍🏻
little tip if anyone has issues lifting the metal tabs. Use one of those pining needles you find in sewing kits. With the first tab you can put in one end then out of the other, and slowly lift it until it open a bit. Also makes it easier to close as it doesn't open as much.
You can save yourself a lot of time by buying a can of TV tuner cleaner and lubricant and spray a bit inside the potentiomerter and press the pedal 10 or 20 times. This will work several times until things are too gummed up in their. No need to disassemble the potentiometer if you dont need to.
I've never tried the stuff. I googled it and it sounds like it would be a good lubricant but I dont know how it cleans away the old dirty / dusty lubricant.
I have a 'Dust Blaster' (compressed gas) we use it to clean computers and stuff like that. Before disassemble all my pedal like showed here. Do you think I can just try to shoot my pot with it without removing any parts? My gas pedal only go to 90% in-game, but not all the time. Because I'm scary about broken or lost something, and not too good for re assemble things lol.
I see we can use contact cleaner, but makes a lot of liquid... We can shoot this in the pot? I only have compressed gas for now and I don't know if I can use it for this. And I don't know if it's a good idea to shoot that liquid things in the pot...
You are totally right! Had the problem that my gas pedal was jerking a bit, wich was very annoying in some games. I have a big air compressor at home so I unscrewed the metal plates from the pedals. Took my vacuum and cleaned the loose dirt and then took the air compressor und blew the crap out of it while pumping it repeatedly (probably 20-30 times per pedal). Looked very clean after that. Put everything back together and tested it. Works like a charm now! Let's see for how long.
Thank you Adam, great video. I have G29 pedals and they were spiking badly. I followed your instructions to clean my accelerator and brake pedals and now they work perfectly! Thanks again
It is unfortunately marketed as a solution, while I consider it a temporary fix at best (and also one that, at times will worsen effects over time). I'd say you'd be much better off buying a new potentiometer if Logitech didn't actually use a deviating standard size of the notch on the axis.
Just a tip for those who have these problems. If you solder a condenser (a small one preferably) between two terminals you can eliminate the spiky problem. Did this on my dfgt and worked like a charm.
My accelerator had been sticking at about 10%. I just followed this video and check if it fixed the problem. I currently dont have a subsciption to iRacing active but want to test to see if the problem still persists before I renew. ANy ideas on how to test this out? thanks
thank you man, it solved my issue! I appreciate the detailed video cause i had problems mounting it back, but then watching it again i could figure what i did wrong
OK, if you have had your pedals for a long time and the throttle is very spiky and inputs are very frantic, its bound to have built up dirt and dust( especially if placed on carpet) you can use a compressor - HOWEVER you should use ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER! (amzn.to/2yJ5Pxq) Taking your potentiometers apart can damage them it works so well and you only need to take the case off and spray onto potentiometer housing! Its simple and easy and takes all dirt away. Dont bother cleaning your pedals with a cloth or compressor. You can get contact cleaner spray at your local hardware store or via amazon with this link - amzn.to/2yJ5Pxq
man... i opend mine , found it so dirty and the electric thing wasn't even white like yours it was grey from the dirtyness i whiped it with no hope of it being fixed and installed every thing back and it worked fine . you save me! thanks! ill like and fav the vid
Thanks for the upload. A lot of detail for someone who might be jumping into anything like this for the first time. I found that it took a little too long to get to the point though, but it's not a bad thing. Always better to have more than enough info instead of too little. Just finished putting my DFGT pedals back together. I'll see if my work was good enough tomorrow. Cheers!
The 3in1 is your friend if you do not feel like disassembling you can throw 3in1 by putting the long tube through the slot if if when you finish the tuto you squirt to lubricate at the end you cover the slot with American paper bodybuilder tape what more endurance. This applies to ALL the potentiometers of the mixer which bring the fm radios to the hifi speakers 2, or 5.1 etc.
Used Air Duster spray. I sprayed it into the gap in the potentiometer and haven't had a problem since. No need for any disassembly other than take the base off to get at them.
Hi Adam nice video tutorial! Please mention if the wires to the pots are supposed to be giving +5 volts. I am trying to fix my g27 pedals, but the voltage readings on the wires are just 40mV. I do get +5v for the wires going to the shifter control panel, so this doesn't seem right, or does it??
I've done the same procedure but when reassembling the potentiometer i noticed that it didn't quite stayed very firm and when trying it with iRacing now the accelerator pedal doesn't register 100% when fully pressing. It goes up to 89%. What can i do now?
@T3KKANッ I solved it a few hours later after I posted this hahaha! Turns out that when I reassembled everything I misaligned the little half-gear thingy that connects to the pedal structure and to the potentiometer itself. So the potentiometer didn't fully rotate.
Gonna have to do this soon I think. I'm not gonna take it completely apart though. Don't want to risk breaking something that doesn't need to be replaced yet. The pedal box sat for over a year collecting dust and I recently just started using them again. On iRacing, you can see the brake meter start to flicker ever so slightly. It may not actually be applying any brake to the car because I don't really sense any slowdown, especially on oval tracks where you spend a vast portion of your time @ full throttle while using little brake. The flickering on the meter barely goes up past maybe 1%, it may not even be reaching the minimum input required to activate the brake...but I can see the flicker if I just barely rest my foot on the pedal without putting any pressure on it. I know it's not normal and it never did it before, so I have to believe dust or fibers have gotten trapped in there just like shown here. I'm not gonna take it completely apart but I am gonna wipe away any visible dust or debris and then coat it liberally with some contact cleaner on both sides. Let it sit for an hour or so and then put it back together in the hopes that'll solve the problem. I may decide to mod my gas pedal spring to make it a bit stiffer while I'm in there but I haven't decided yet. If it doesn't solve the problem, I'll have to deal with it until I'm ready to buy the Fanatec CSL Elite LC pedal set. Edit: Since it's late at night and I wanted to hold off until morning before I started taking it apart, I figured I'd used compressed air to blow into the housing and try to remove any dust. Ended up being a mistake because now the throttle acts up. With the throttle pedal fully pressed, it flickers down to about 85-90% throttle, and then goes back to 100% where it should be when fully depressed. It's absolutely filthy in the housing. Crazy how much hair, dust and other stuff can get down in there just from normal use. Definitely coming apart tomorrow and getting cleaned out thoroughly. I sincerely hope that resolves the issue and it doesn't need new potentiometers.
Recently my G27 brake pedal started acting up. it while spike a tiny bit usually mid corner or coming out on occasion I've realized. I've also had an two occurrences where it stayed at 10% until I pressed it again. You think it's the potentiometer. It's still under warranty should I just submit a claim?
@ adam maciejewski what you mean by hd your camera whas not focused half the time so not realy hd if you qsk me just letting you know maybe good for next video to check the camera anyway i know what to do now so thanks
Great stuff! I've been having issues with my G25 pedals so I'm about to clean these potentiometers. What I don't quite understand is what you start doing at 10:19 (hands go off the screen), because you kind of align the needles and I don't have very clear how to do that. Thanks!
He checks the alignment of the wiper contacts (there are 3 in total, the first big set (the 5 or 6 thin ones in a row next to each other) are what connect to the wiper-pin (usually the middle one) and the two contacts that connect to the other two contacts left and right of the potentiometer, the + and - or mass most of the time) before putting a part of the casing back on. If you don't you might notice the potentiometer is only working for a much smaller portion of it's range, and even worse, you might risk bending the wipers due to them reaching an area where they might hit something and bend. Also, the axis needs alignment for the housing to fit (the metal tabs he bend) and if the axis is misaligned, the gear-part that the pedal causes to rotate will not fit in the right position. By the way, I'd say you would be much better off buying new potentiometers. 10Kohm is a very common value to find in electronics stores, the only thing I don't know is if they are lineair or logarhythmic, which can really influence the behavior of the pedal if you get that wrong (lineair is what the name says, there is an almost even increase or decrease in resistance over the whole range, whereas a logarhythmical (also called a "log pot") one has a resistance that is more a curve and the potentiometer's response will be short for the most part and then increase fast when nearing the middle of the rotational range, and then have another part of the range in which it's behavior is much less noticeable.)
I had the same issue, but instead of taking off the potentiometer I used somethingcalled "Elektronikkrengjøring"/Elektronic cleaner. I sprayed on the potentiometer, let it dry a bit and it worked. Make sure you press and release the pedals when applaying. and smells really good im kinda high rn. chhers
These pots are a wearable part and simply spraying them with a healthy dose of contact cleaner will not always rectify the issue. I'm in the midst of solving this issue right now myself. I noticed the spiky throttle & brake issue about a month ago, and in that time I've already had to take the pedals apart twice and hit both pots with a healthy amount of contact cleaner, but not after thoroughly cleaning out the inside of the pedal assembly. The contact cleaner solved the issue temporarily for about 2 weeks tops...which is a clear sign the pots are simply worn to the point of needing replacement. Thankfully, I found a company that sells a pot that features all the same specifications. The only difference is the terminal posts on the pots are shaped a little differently and I will either have to clip off the ends or file them down so the spade clips for the G27's wiring harness will fit onto the new pot terminals. Aside from that issue, all the specs match up with the stock pots Logitech used. 300 degrees linear rotation. D-type shaft. 10K Ohm, 0.5 watt. Carbon resistive material. Aside from the terminal shape, they look identical to the stock pots and I have no reason to believe they won't work. That said, I'll install them first and make sure they work and if everything goes according to plan, I'll edit my post and provide a link to the pots and the company I bought them from which is based in the United States. Price was very reasonable and shipping time took only 2 business days w/ standard USPS shipping. I just don't want to post the link telling people to go buy them unless I know they work and install without much hassle. I don't expect any issues but better safe than sorry. Edit: Unfortunately the pots I bought don't work exactly right. They will install with some slight modification and they will WORK, but the problem is they do not sync up with the throw of the G25/G27 pedals. Basically, when you're pushing the pedal 3/4 of the way down, you're already at 100% input instead of 75% input. Logitech likely tested a bunch of different pots from different manufacturers until they found one that paired up perfectly with the travel of the pedals. So, the pots will work but they'll be too sensitive and you'd be at full throttle or brake when you still have room to press the pedal down further. Some games will let you adjust for this via deadzone or saturation, but sims like iRacing do not and therefore these pots are of no use to me. If you''d like to try them, these are the ones I ordered. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/450D103F7/450D103-6-ND/183274 All the specs match up and the wheel recognizes them without issue, so if you don't care about the syncing issue and just want your pedal to work again, these are a last-resort option. Unfortunately, what should be a $4 replacement fee for a broken pot is turning into a $250/300 wheel/pedal set replacement. It's asinine that these pots aren't easily accessible for purchase. There used to be some places that carried them like Leo Bodnar or TheSimShop but neither carry them anymore so if you're stuck with broken pots, you're essentially out of luck. If cleaning them with contact cleaner or this method isn't enough, you're only other option is to search high and low for the correct pot, or buy a new wheel and/or pedals. Really unfortunate.
Since Logitech support is absolutely useless, as much as I like their products I need some help. I've been using a G25 for probably around 8 years now, and it's been an amazing wheel. The last game I used it for was The Crew back in December 2014, I then put it away for a few months till Project Cars came out yesterday, now the pedals aren't working. They work for a few seconds if you go in the controller software, and seem fine but then all of them will stop responding, or occasionally one will still work while the others dont. Everything else is fine, I cleaned out the potentiometers and cleaned them, but the problem remains the same. I really just can't figure out why they would work when plugged in but only for a little while, and beyond that they were perfect a few months ago and haven't been used since then. I tried everything I can think of aside from buying a new wheel and have no way to test the pedals on another set. Anyone have any ideas at all? This comes the same week my x55 HOTAS had a wire break that's in an amazingly difficult spot to solder, meaning I may need to get a new joystick as well, so if either can be fixed it's well worth it.
few days ago, I cleaned my pedals after years, bcs throttle pedal was sometimes staying in 10% gas without pressing. I cleaned it, and it is ok... BUT - since than, my clutch pedal started behaving weird.. Sometimes it does work sometimes it does not.. looks like if there was not contact or so... but all the cables are plugged well.
This video is a god send i dled it even lols. If the guys at the shop can't resolve all this chaos for me then yeah thank the heavens for people like you uploading pretty much idiot-proof tutorials like this. 10/10 (+1) o7
I'm having the problem where my clutch pedal is acting like my gas pedal, when I step on the clutch it keeps going, as in red lining, and if I take my foot off the clutch, it will go by its self, meaning the car. I need a fix for this. ASAP
I tried to clean mine, pulled it apart and all just to be sure. It made no difference. It turned out that the clutch potentiometer was dead so it needed to be replaced. If your looking for the perfect replacement part, try Digi-Key they ship worldwide. Its just under $6AUD + shipping but I had it within the week and problem fixed. Theyre almost identical, just need to file the hole a tad bigger with a rats-tail file and snip off the circular terminal ends and everything else goes together easy. Part Number# 450D103F7 (Digi-Key Part Number 450D103-6-ND). You dont need to be a technician to pop one of these in.
I can tell you a better way. Not saying this guy has done it wrong, but if like me you do not use the clutch pedal simply swap the clutch over to the throttle and you have a new pedal which should last a few years. I have had my g25 since 1997-98 and just in the last week 01/07/14 was getting poor throttle response, boggin down and could not get the revs high to change gear. But now it feels new again, hope this helps someone
I've just noticed the hex screws on the pedals are rusted and I can't get it out using a hex key. Tried WD40 and it didn't work. So I can't get these things apart, lol.
Over time I have learned that these potentiometers must be wrapped in a nylon film so that dirt does not enter them. But the best is to use sensored Hall.
![ไข้ขึ้นเลย! เมื่อแฝดโดนจัดเต็มวัคซีนครบ2เดือน🤒 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.54 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z2VHItnyyvY/mqdefault.jpg)
You don't have to take the potentiometer apart!!! Go to the automotive store or some place that sells electrical contact cleaner. Spray it inside the potentiometer and it will clean it just as good and safer than taking the thing apart. You deferentially don't want to be using any kind of wipes on it as it will leave debre you can't see. LPS Electrical Contact cleaner will clean them just like they came from the factory. FORGET TAKING THEM APART!! Also, if you go to an automotive parts store, they have Oxygen Sensor Cleaner that works just like LPS Electrical Contact Cleaner.
Taking it apart is not a good idea and especially using a cleaning cloth rubbing delicate electrical contacts that are calibrated at the factory will pretty much undo what is trying to be done here. Trust me, do not attempt to take it apart USE ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER, it will do a better job than what this guy shows. Way better!!
+Joey B isnt that spray going to screw up my potentiometer?
+Hub001 No, that spray is designed to clean electronic parts without dis-assembly. It leaves no residue and is completely harmless to your electronic components. If do what this video suggests, then you will likely damage your potentiality; and will continue to have malfunctions with it.
thx.btw is it expensive?
+Hub001 Anywhere from 10 to 15 dollars, depending on where you go to get it. You won't need to use the whole can, so you can clean them about 5 times with one can of spray.
Good tip, I use electrical contact cleaner for mine.
Guys, I followed every instruction and took apart all the pedals and cleaned them all.
I used to run with 25% deadzone on the gas and clutch, and 50% on the brake because of these spikes.
I considered buying something else.
But then I saw this, and gave it a go.
After an afternoon's worth of tinkering, it made all the difference. It's better than new.
Adam, thank you so, so, so very much for this tutorial and fix. It works!
Much appreciated video! I was having this spiking problem, and I knew I probably had to clean the potentiometer, but I didn't think it could be opened without being broken. I thought that potentiometers were enclosed, sterile units that would get damaged if exposed to particles in the air. So I didn't know how to approach it.
I'm glad you recorded the whole process. I would've been stuck trying to bend that first metal tab for a while. It still took me a long time too after seeing you do it. A skewer works very well with getting it off quickly and cleanly (the one I used had a very sharp and thin tip on it, perfect for the job.).
Mine had rust almost completely covering the surface of the strip. I'm surprised that it was still working as well as it did before I cleaned it for having so much rust on it. I only noticed issues with my throttle pedal but I decided to just clean all three while I was at it. It took me a while but it was worth the effort.
Unfortunately, I bent a set of the small metal arms on the sweeper with my clutch potentiometer and I couldn't figure out what it was! I was stumped for like two hours, maybe even more, just troubleshooting and trying to find the solution. Every thing about the potentiometer looked great; they're all in great condition. Eventually I found out what it was and fixed it.
Thanks for the video. I've been dealing with this for probably a month or so. I have no idea when it started that's just when I noticed it was happening. Sorry for the uber-post of a TH-cam thank you comment. Thanks if you made it this far. :)
Sounds like Gran Turismo menu music.
bc it's from gt5
Absolutely great video and step by step tutorial. As long as you’re extremely careful, this is the best way to clean everything thoroughly and my G27’s throttle response is like new out of the box now. Thanks to this video, he just saved me $300.
This saved my g27! I've done this twice when my accelerator got too spiky and it worked like a charm both times, 100% fixed.
Thanks man, all these years later your video is still useful i'm doing this with my brake pedal that has been doing this for the last year or so
Hi Adam, I was one of the guys that just sprayed the Potentiometer with Contact Cleaner, which does work, but only temporarily.
However I was at the stage where I was spraying that sucker every week, which was both frustrating and annoying, so I decided to strip and clean it as per your video.
I used cotton buds and Contact Cleaner and I got a lot of crap off the potentiometer.
It took me a couple of hours, but I'm no electronics guy. Now its been months and my G29 is still driving like new.
So spraying with Contact Cleaner does work, for a short time, but if you want to clean the potentiometer properly, I suggest that you strip it down as per Adam's video.
Thanks Adam, I appreciate the video mate.
Cheers :-)
Very nice and easy to understand guide - doesnt even need sound for it, just look and follow - and the text version with pics in the descritption is also still up!
Thanks for this tutorial! My pedals were spiking to the point I couldn't even start a race due to everything going crazy from the random pedal inputs. Works like new now after following the steps; though after reading comments I would recommend using an electrical contact spray rather than pulling the potentiometer apart, probably a bit safer in terms of longevity! Otherwise, thanks heaps for the upload!
TY very much, it solved my problem. A note to Joey B: I had the same idea (electrical contact cleaner) and things were worst and worster... The first time I found this tutorial 1 yr ago and I was scared to possibly damage the pedals. Now that it was completely unusable and unplayable, (couse of braking in the middle of a corner or countinuously braking on a straight track) I tried to follow this tutorial again, "only for the brake pedal, so in case of damage I still have the cluthc one) and I can assure that it solved my problem, now I have to do the same on the gas pedal. Was much better if I did 1 yr ago so, a tip to other users, do it soon as possible, couse thing in time will be always worster until you nervous system collapses.
I apologize for my english.
TY very much to Adam for this tutorial couse it can save a lot of money.
This video is nothing short of amazing. My pedals never and I mean NEVER worked better. Thank you so VERY VERY VERY much being a single dad on a budget you saved me a lot of breaking stuff or going without my stress reliever thank you again
Thanks for this! I just did it and it fixed my G29 throttle pedal flicker issue. Took me about couple hours though. Might have tried the contact cleaner spray if I had a shop selling it nearby, but I'm happy I've done this now. I'm pretty sure it will remain cleaner longer this way.
thanks a lot, you saved my pedals. I started doing this without checking if there was any tutorial, and I messed up when reassembling the plastic gears, so the pedals weren't working. But thanks to your video now I have solved it watching the correct position of the plastic gears
My pedals work fine thanks to this amazing step by step video, it was extremely helpful and i like the fact you dont just go "UsE COntACt CleAner SPrAy!" And take everything apart to show us the problem and how to repair it. Ive been playing forza horizon 4 and mudrunner all day now with no telemetry anomalies (60%~70%) so thanks for showing us what to do and helping me save £300.👍🏻
Hey, I'd suggest you to add a drop shadow to the text so you can read it regardless of whether the background is dark or light. :)
little tip if anyone has issues lifting the metal tabs.
Use one of those pining needles you find in sewing kits.
With the first tab you can put in one end then out of the other, and slowly lift it until it open a bit.
Also makes it easier to close as it doesn't open as much.
I have the Leo Bodnar cable for the G27 pedals and the brake kept spiking up when it wasn't even pressed. This has solved the problems, thanks.
You can save yourself a lot of time by buying a can of TV tuner cleaner and lubricant and spray a bit inside the potentiomerter and press the pedal 10 or 20 times. This will work several times until things are too gummed up in their. No need to disassemble the potentiometer if you dont need to.
Would LPS1 work?
I've never tried the stuff. I googled it and it sounds like it would be a good lubricant but I dont know how it cleans away the old dirty / dusty lubricant.
I have a 'Dust Blaster' (compressed gas) we use it to clean computers and stuff like that. Before disassemble all my pedal like showed here. Do you think I can just try to shoot my pot with it without removing any parts? My gas pedal only go to 90% in-game, but not all the time.
Because I'm scary about broken or lost something, and not too good for re assemble things lol.
I see we can use contact cleaner, but makes a lot of liquid... We can shoot this in the pot? I only have compressed gas for now and I don't know if I can use it for this. And I don't know if it's a good idea to shoot that liquid things in the pot...
You are totally right! Had the problem that my gas pedal was jerking a bit, wich was very annoying in some games. I have a big air compressor at home so I unscrewed the metal plates from the pedals. Took my vacuum and cleaned the loose dirt and then took the air compressor und blew the crap out of it while pumping it repeatedly (probably 20-30 times per pedal). Looked very clean after that. Put everything back together and tested it. Works like a charm now! Let's see for how long.
Thank you Adam, great video. I have G29 pedals and they were spiking badly. I followed your instructions to clean my accelerator and brake pedals and now they work perfectly! Thanks again
Adam! you are my hero! I followed your video, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, works perfect again!
thanks for leaving this up.I found it very easy to follow. I was at the point where spraying contact cleaner only lasted a few days
It is unfortunately marketed as a solution, while I consider it a temporary fix at best (and also one that, at times will worsen effects over time).
I'd say you'd be much better off buying a new potentiometer if Logitech didn't actually use a deviating standard size of the notch on the axis.
Just a tip for those who have these problems. If you solder a condenser (a small one preferably) between two terminals you can eliminate the spiky problem. Did this on my dfgt and worked like a charm.
My accelerator had been sticking at about 10%. I just followed this video and check if it fixed the problem. I currently dont have a subsciption to iRacing active but want to test to see if the problem still persists before I renew. ANy ideas on how to test this out? thanks
It was either repair or replace.... I went with try the repair if that fails replace, well my Accelerator pedal now works. Thanks for the info 👍🏼👍🏼
Because the plugs of the 4 cables from the potentiometer were so tight, I pulled 2 cables when I pulled out what should I do now?
thank you man, it solved my issue!
I appreciate the detailed video cause i had problems mounting it back, but then watching it again i could figure what i did wrong
OK, if you have had your pedals for a long time and the throttle is very spiky and inputs are very frantic, its bound to have built up dirt and dust( especially if placed on carpet) you can use a compressor - HOWEVER you should use ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER! (amzn.to/2yJ5Pxq)
Taking your potentiometers apart can damage them
it works so well and you only need to take the case off and spray onto potentiometer housing! Its simple and easy and takes all dirt away. Dont bother cleaning your pedals with a cloth or compressor. You can get contact cleaner spray at your local hardware store or via amazon with this link - amzn.to/2yJ5Pxq
man... i opend mine , found it so dirty and the electric thing wasn't even white like yours it was grey from the dirtyness i whiped it with no hope of it being fixed and installed every thing back and it worked fine . you save me! thanks! ill like and fav the vid
Thanks for the upload. A lot of detail for someone who might be jumping into anything like this for the first time. I found that it took a little too long to get to the point though, but it's not a bad thing. Always better to have more than enough info instead of too little.
Just finished putting my DFGT pedals back together. I'll see if my work was good enough tomorrow. Cheers!
Potentometers should be same so can we swap them betwen accelerator and clutch...but clean that broken one before?
Thanks mate 3drap’s tutorial was a bit vague on how to remove the black plastic piece next to the pot.
The 3in1 is your friend if you do not feel like disassembling you can throw 3in1 by putting the long tube through the slot if if when you finish the tuto you squirt to lubricate at the end you cover the slot with American paper bodybuilder tape what more endurance.
This applies to ALL the potentiometers of the mixer which bring the fm radios to the hifi speakers 2, or 5.1 etc.
Used Air Duster spray. I sprayed it into the gap in the potentiometer and haven't had a problem since.
No need for any disassembly other than take the base off to get at them.
Hi Adam nice video tutorial!
Please mention if the wires to the pots are supposed to be giving +5 volts.
I am trying to fix my g27 pedals, but the voltage readings on the wires are just 40mV. I do get +5v for the wires going to the shifter control panel, so this doesn't seem right, or does it??
I've done the same procedure but when reassembling the potentiometer i noticed that it didn't quite stayed very firm and when trying it with iRacing now the accelerator pedal doesn't register 100% when fully pressing. It goes up to 89%. What can i do now?
@T3KKANッ I solved it a few hours later after I posted this hahaha! Turns out that when I reassembled everything I misaligned the little half-gear thingy that connects to the pedal structure and to the potentiometer itself. So the potentiometer didn't fully rotate.
Do you need to sodder the pins back when you reconnect them? Or is sliding them on fully good enough?
tyvm for the tutorial, i lost the fear to mess about the potentiometers!
Gonna have to do this soon I think. I'm not gonna take it completely apart though. Don't want to risk breaking something that doesn't need to be replaced yet. The pedal box sat for over a year collecting dust and I recently just started using them again. On iRacing, you can see the brake meter start to flicker ever so slightly. It may not actually be applying any brake to the car because I don't really sense any slowdown, especially on oval tracks where you spend a vast portion of your time @ full throttle while using little brake. The flickering on the meter barely goes up past maybe 1%, it may not even be reaching the minimum input required to activate the brake...but I can see the flicker if I just barely rest my foot on the pedal without putting any pressure on it. I know it's not normal and it never did it before, so I have to believe dust or fibers have gotten trapped in there just like shown here.
I'm not gonna take it completely apart but I am gonna wipe away any visible dust or debris and then coat it liberally with some contact cleaner on both sides. Let it sit for an hour or so and then put it back together in the hopes that'll solve the problem. I may decide to mod my gas pedal spring to make it a bit stiffer while I'm in there but I haven't decided yet. If it doesn't solve the problem, I'll have to deal with it until I'm ready to buy the Fanatec CSL Elite LC pedal set.
Edit: Since it's late at night and I wanted to hold off until morning before I started taking it apart, I figured I'd used compressed air to blow into the housing and try to remove any dust. Ended up being a mistake because now the throttle acts up. With the throttle pedal fully pressed, it flickers down to about 85-90% throttle, and then goes back to 100% where it should be when fully depressed. It's absolutely filthy in the housing. Crazy how much hair, dust and other stuff can get down in there just from normal use. Definitely coming apart tomorrow and getting cleaned out thoroughly. I sincerely hope that resolves the issue and it doesn't need new potentiometers.
Recently my G27 brake pedal started acting up. it while spike a tiny bit usually mid corner or coming out on occasion I've realized. I've also had an two occurrences where it stayed at 10% until I pressed it again. You think it's the potentiometer. It's still under warranty should I just submit a claim?
I know I'm 3 years late buy... what happened in the end?
@ adam maciejewski what you mean by hd your camera whas not focused half the time so not realy hd if you qsk me just letting you know maybe good for next video to check the camera anyway i know what to do now so thanks
the BEST tuto for this
Hello. If you do not cleant it how it works without cleaning? Dead zone? Or random movements? or not full gas?
Helped a lot. Very clear step-by-step tutorial!
Witam, przeczyściłem potencjometr tak jak pan to pokazał, lecz w profilerze dalej pokazuje, że sprzęgło jest wciśnięte na 100% co zrobić?
Great stuff! I've been having issues with my G25 pedals so I'm about to clean these potentiometers.
What I don't quite understand is what you start doing at 10:19 (hands go off the screen), because you kind of align the needles and I don't have very clear how to do that.
Thanks!
He checks the alignment of the wiper contacts (there are 3 in total, the first big set (the 5 or 6 thin ones in a row next to each other) are what connect to the wiper-pin (usually the middle one) and the two contacts that connect to the other two contacts left and right of the potentiometer, the + and - or mass most of the time) before putting a part of the casing back on.
If you don't you might notice the potentiometer is only working for a much smaller portion of it's range, and even worse, you might risk bending the wipers due to them reaching an area where they might hit something and bend.
Also, the axis needs alignment for the housing to fit (the metal tabs he bend) and if the axis is misaligned, the gear-part that the pedal causes to rotate will not fit in the right position.
By the way, I'd say you would be much better off buying new potentiometers. 10Kohm is a very common value to find in electronics stores, the only thing I don't know is if they are lineair or logarhythmic, which can really influence the behavior of the pedal if you get that wrong (lineair is what the name says, there is an almost even increase or decrease in resistance over the whole range, whereas a logarhythmical (also called a "log pot") one has a resistance that is more a curve and the potentiometer's response will be short for the most part and then increase fast when nearing the middle of the rotational range, and then have another part of the range in which it's behavior is much less noticeable.)
Thanks mate... fixed my g29 with this!
what kind of degreaser did you use to clean the sensor?
Thank you man! It fixed the problem. BIG THANKS for doing this video.
Thanks for the video, it helped me today........ i did clean my pedal potentiometers, its ok now.
Ignore any of the negative comments. Just did this completely myself, all of the flicker is gone. Thanks for the video man, very good.
Hi mate I have a g25 and my clutch don't work :-( my first and second gear works but the other gears don't :-( any help
I had the same issue, but instead of taking off the potentiometer I used somethingcalled "Elektronikkrengjøring"/Elektronic cleaner. I sprayed on the potentiometer, let it dry a bit and it worked. Make sure you press and release the pedals when applaying. and smells really good im kinda high rn. chhers
G29 you think about the same?
so that why my accelarator does sometimes what ever it wants...no revs or it revs all by itself??
Thank you. Just cleaned my accelerator: the car is now faster!!! thank you
These pots are a wearable part and simply spraying them with a healthy dose of contact cleaner will not always rectify the issue. I'm in the midst of solving this issue right now myself. I noticed the spiky throttle & brake issue about a month ago, and in that time I've already had to take the pedals apart twice and hit both pots with a healthy amount of contact cleaner, but not after thoroughly cleaning out the inside of the pedal assembly. The contact cleaner solved the issue temporarily for about 2 weeks tops...which is a clear sign the pots are simply worn to the point of needing replacement.
Thankfully, I found a company that sells a pot that features all the same specifications. The only difference is the terminal posts on the pots are shaped a little differently and I will either have to clip off the ends or file them down so the spade clips for the G27's wiring harness will fit onto the new pot terminals. Aside from that issue, all the specs match up with the stock pots Logitech used. 300 degrees linear rotation. D-type shaft. 10K Ohm, 0.5 watt. Carbon resistive material. Aside from the terminal shape, they look identical to the stock pots and I have no reason to believe they won't work. That said, I'll install them first and make sure they work and if everything goes according to plan, I'll edit my post and provide a link to the pots and the company I bought them from which is based in the United States. Price was very reasonable and shipping time took only 2 business days w/ standard USPS shipping. I just don't want to post the link telling people to go buy them unless I know they work and install without much hassle. I don't expect any issues but better safe than sorry.
Edit: Unfortunately the pots I bought don't work exactly right. They will install with some slight modification and they will WORK, but the problem is they do not sync up with the throw of the G25/G27 pedals. Basically, when you're pushing the pedal 3/4 of the way down, you're already at 100% input instead of 75% input. Logitech likely tested a bunch of different pots from different manufacturers until they found one that paired up perfectly with the travel of the pedals. So, the pots will work but they'll be too sensitive and you'd be at full throttle or brake when you still have room to press the pedal down further. Some games will let you adjust for this via deadzone or saturation, but sims like iRacing do not and therefore these pots are of no use to me. If you''d like to try them, these are the ones I ordered. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/450D103F7/450D103-6-ND/183274
All the specs match up and the wheel recognizes them without issue, so if you don't care about the syncing issue and just want your pedal to work again, these are a last-resort option. Unfortunately, what should be a $4 replacement fee for a broken pot is turning into a $250/300 wheel/pedal set replacement. It's asinine that these pots aren't easily accessible for purchase. There used to be some places that carried them like Leo Bodnar or TheSimShop but neither carry them anymore so if you're stuck with broken pots, you're essentially out of luck. If cleaning them with contact cleaner or this method isn't enough, you're only other option is to search high and low for the correct pot, or buy a new wheel and/or pedals. Really unfortunate.
Thank you mate,very helpful instructions,i solved the problem!
very nice a deep cleaning of the pots, but i guess spraying some good contact cleaner will do the job.
thx man, really helpful!!! im happy again and competitive too
Since Logitech support is absolutely useless, as much as I like their products I need some help. I've been using a G25 for probably around 8 years now, and it's been an amazing wheel. The last game I used it for was The Crew back in December 2014, I then put it away for a few months till Project Cars came out yesterday, now the pedals aren't working. They work for a few seconds if you go in the controller software, and seem fine but then all of them will stop responding, or occasionally one will still work while the others dont. Everything else is fine, I cleaned out the potentiometers and cleaned them, but the problem remains the same. I really just can't figure out why they would work when plugged in but only for a little while, and beyond that they were perfect a few months ago and haven't been used since then. I tried everything I can think of aside from buying a new wheel and have no way to test the pedals on another set. Anyone have any ideas at all? This comes the same week my x55 HOTAS had a wire break that's in an amazingly difficult spot to solder, meaning I may need to get a new joystick as well, so if either can be fixed it's well worth it.
Wouldn't it be easier to just replace the potentiometer?
hi, i did it, but now my gas pedal is going 5 % to 94% min and max. help!!!
Thank you very much for making this video!!
I can use my air duster(for computers) for my G29?thx
Thank you so much!!!! this video just saved me $300!!! exactly what i needed, works perfectly now. thank you again!
Thank you for the diagram of wires and one advice, you should consider to buy a contact cleaner you get a better cleaning
This solved my issue. You are awesome, thanks !
few days ago, I cleaned my pedals after years, bcs throttle pedal was sometimes staying in 10% gas without pressing. I cleaned it, and it is ok... BUT - since than, my clutch pedal started behaving weird.. Sometimes it does work sometimes it does not.. looks like if there was not contact or so... but all the cables are plugged well.
Please guys can someone help me. I did the same as in the video but now my throtle always in 5% even if I am not touching it
Thanks for the work to helping us with the pedals!! Great stuff!
Must we, do like this process per a 6 month ? Please give it comment, I need your help bro.
This video is a god send i dled it even lols. If the guys at the shop can't resolve all this chaos for me then yeah thank the heavens for people like you uploading pretty much idiot-proof tutorials like this. 10/10 (+1) o7
Please i search a new potenziometer for g27 you know a model?Thank Guy
Top job mate. Thank you very much for posting.
Thank you very much dude! You kept my nerves. And nice music. I have not played for a long time in the Gran Turismo. It is nostalgia :)
I'm having the problem where my clutch pedal is acting like my gas pedal, when I step on the clutch it keeps going, as in red lining, and if I take my foot off the clutch, it will go by its self, meaning the car. I need a fix for this. ASAP
you need to tweak the settings in your game, it's happened to me before and it's not the pedals usually
yes, you are right. for example spray "TESLANOL" (Spray for cleaning electrical connections and tuners) used years ago, and works fine :|
I tried to clean mine, pulled it apart and all just to be sure. It made no difference. It turned out that the clutch potentiometer was dead so it needed to be replaced. If your looking for the perfect replacement part, try Digi-Key they ship worldwide. Its just under $6AUD + shipping but I had it within the week and problem fixed. Theyre almost identical, just need to file the hole a tad bigger with a rats-tail file and snip off the circular terminal ends and everything else goes together easy. Part Number# 450D103F7 (Digi-Key Part Number 450D103-6-ND). You dont need to be a technician to pop one of these in.
Thanks man! Worked like a charm!
Do i need to unhook wires?
I can tell you a better way. Not saying this guy has done it wrong, but if like me you do not use the clutch pedal simply swap the clutch over to the throttle and you have a new pedal which should last a few years. I have had my g25 since 1997-98 and just in the last week 01/07/14 was getting poor throttle response, boggin down and could not get the revs high to change gear. But now it feels new again, hope this helps someone
1997-98? G25 got released in 2007...
I meant 2007 2008 sorry
menacegtr you are saying, to change de pedal position!??
What kind of little girl doesn't use their clutch pedal?
In some games you do not use the clutch. Like FS17 for instance. So if you only play those game (like me) you can do menacegtr's trick.
I've just noticed the hex screws on the pedals are rusted and I can't get it out using a hex key. Tried WD40 and it didn't work. So I can't get these things apart, lol.
Over time I have learned that these potentiometers must be wrapped in a nylon film so that dirt does not enter them. But the best is to use sensored Hall.
Helped me a lot mate, thanks!
just worked, thank you!
Great video, thanks so much!
Thanks a lot dear you are a saint. IT WORK PERFECTLY!!!
Thnx a lot i go to fix my fuucking Accelerator pedal problem!!! :D :)
Very helpful, I solved my problem.
thx man. it worked ! you're the man !
How to prevent spiking pedals?
I am completely stuck at reassembling the spring
Fantastic tutorial. I need to fix my brake pedal. Thanks
Cheers m8... looks a bit risky but it's good to know how to do it anyway :)
guys I need your help asap my gas pedal and my clutch pedal are on the same axis how do I fix?
+LoadoutGaming (1080p) Un tick in the g27 profiler Combined (Single Axis - Used for most games)
its un ticked
Worked for me, thanks!
Thanks, it works for me :) Could've been shorter video though
I'm going to do that with my dfgt right now! first it was only gas pedal but now brakes too...
Thanks a lot, very useful video :)