For those who use butane lighters just keep it in your pocket/in your bedding. If you keep it warm you won’t have any lighting problems. Mountaineers keep their butane fuel and water bottle etc. in their sleeping bags. Or you can do away with lighters entirely like I have; I just have a small ferro rod built into my Mora Kniv bushcrafter. Use proper technique, moving the rod not the knife, and you can aim/control the volume of sparks quite nicely.
I have one of these on my 24’ cabin boat. Cabin is about 14’, non insulated. I use a 1 gallon tank. It lasts all summer. This is in Alaska with temps in the 40’s f and rainy. I only use low, fan on low or off. I have never had it blow out even while moving. It has been a game changer for fishing and camping comfort. Was using Mr Buddy before and just to much moisture. This dries clothes and cabin instead of making it wetter. When I light I slowly close the door right after lighting and continue holding in the button for 15 to 20 seconds. Great video on the stove. It is truly efficient. The 30 lb tank may be a lifetime supply or at least a year😊.
Looks great...go to Dickinson Diesel Heater best installation ever. I cut my cabinets away on my sailboat so I could put the heater as low as possible and am so glad I did as much more comfortable to not have cold down in the bottom half of the space you live in.
Hey dude, fellow Kimbo owner here. This is my technique when starting the Dickinson and it's proven extremely reliable and not finicky: (I used to do what you do based on what the folks at Kimbo told me when I picked up the camper, but this method seems to work much better). 1. light your lighter or match and place inside the heater 2. turn the knob to low, with the flame source already there to avoid excessive propane build up 3. close the door immediately, while holding the fuel knob pressed in at the low setting 4. release after about 4 seconds The trick is closing the door immediately. Give it a shot and let me know! Hasn't failed me yet.
I do what Bob Wells has always done and run my propane cook burner at very low and vent my rig. No problem so far even overnight. If you rig can breath it works fine..
I recently installed the P9000 in my truck camper. Yes, the Low setting is too hot for such a small space at non freezing temps. However, I found that you can actually self regulate the flame lower than the "Low" setting by moving the knob between the Off and Low positions. I do this after the camper gets up to temp. It's a very small range to work with, but you can get the flame much smaller. This will use much less propane and allow you to use the heater in more mild temps. I've run it all night like this with no issues, and the camper won't get too hot. I'm sure Dickinson wouldn't recommend this...they probably only want you to lock into their High or Low setting. So, try at your own risk...but it works.
Bring the lighter to the bed will stay relatively warm. Thank you for finally being one of the rare people that actually use a real time thermometer when talking about a camper heater. You would think folks trying to sell a heating solution might want to do that.
Nice talon, thanks for sharing. I think ive always seem that little thing as the ultimate camper heater but didn't think about the fact it doesn't have temp regulation. I love the idea of the visible flame, makes such a difference on atmosphere, but i can also see the advantages of a diesel heater as well with easy starting and temp control.
@@HeshmoMedia they just dont like running on low for extended periods, just crank them up to high like once a month for while and it helps with that big time. check out truckhouselife channel he has a vid on wabasto heaters that is awesome
I've been using one of these heaters for the last 10 years in my RV. The only issue I've ever had is the fan. The fan looks heavy duty, made from metal as opposed to plastic. After lots of use the fan starts to make more noise that I could put up with so I replased with a new one from Dickinson; not cheap. This fan too finally failed in the same manner. I decided to try something else, something a lot cheaper and quieter. I found a 12 volt "muffin" fan that not only fit in heater but used at least 2 of the original mounting screws. I was a little worried about heat effecting the fan but because it's below the fire box and blows cold air up and around the fire box it hasn't been an issue. Way cheaper and much quieter. Great heater which even works when you're driving down the road. Wind has no effect on it.
Thank you for making this video. Now I know what to do in my camper. I actually asked this question in another video you posted, and the answer was here.
On the propane tank gauge. Buy a tank with a built in gauge, because they have a float inside that actually measures the level of the liquid propane. The ones you add to the top of the tank at the hose only measure pressure in the tank, making them wildly inaccurate. The pressure in the tank varies greatly with the air temperature around the tank. About all they will really tell you is if the tank is empty.
I have had 2 campers with automatic propane heaters. a 10 1/2 foot nothstar pop up and a 4 wheel grandby. I have no complaints about the heaters I owned.
I bought a two little refillable butane torches from Amazon that seem much more convenient for me than the usual click stick with a trigger one that came with the Kimbo. IEIK Butane Torch Lighter 2 Pack Refillable Torch Lighter Adjustable Jet Flame Butane Lighter Long Pen Lighter for BBQ Stove Grill Candle Camping 6-inch (Gas Not Included) But I will add some matches too. I have fired up the Dickenson stove a couple of times but not yet actually used it.
Hi Talon, thanks for the comprehensive overview on the Dickinson Heater. It’s really surprising to me that a heater as well built as the Dickinson is lacking features found in gas grills and smokers at half the price. The one item that needs to be standard equipment on all propane heaters and grills is a Piezoelectric Starter. Dickinson sells one, but it doesn’t look as though it’s an available aftermarket part (sold under Dickinson BBQ grill replacement parts, #15-101 @ $30.14) for your stove or the other larger propane stoves. It would have to be more of a retrofit, e.g. drilling through the SS, in order to mount it. But it’s the one thing I would definitely do to as far as upgrades go. Maybe Mark should look into including this on his builds.
As a former owner of a kimbo camper, when you refill, make sure they’re not using a long rod to fill your propane canister. Basically, you should read your manual. I was in the Grand Canyon some years back and had no problems lighting my propane furnace in the cold, but at that time they didn’t have the extra extension on the outside, so sometimes the wind would blow out the flame. But on the newer models, that’s not an issue anymore. Plus, you can send away for the extra enclosure extension and put it on yourself. I did it and they have a video online to see how it’s done.
rig up a pilot light in it, not to run allways but to switch to after you've heated the camper. My camper stayed warm just by the pilot light of the heater & my parents just used the propane lamp built into their vintage camper for heating.
Propane is my choice. I live in my van,rv, in Wisconsin. I like heat. I been doing this well over 20+ year's and before wheel's it's was tent's. Peace ✌️✌️🇺🇲
I have a couple of comments. I have had a Dickinson P12000 on my boat for about 15 years so I have plenty of experience with the heater. When you light the heater you can close and seal the door withing 10-15 seconds although you do have to hold the propane knob for the 30-60 seconds. That is to allow the thermocouple to warm up so it won't shut the propane off. I think your issue with the heater going out when you partly close the door is simply air blowing in the narrow opening going fast enough to blow the flame out. As far as lighting the heater with a cold butane lighter goes, you don't actually need the flame. All you need is the spark you get when you pull the trigger on the butane lighter. So if you position the lighter so the spark is in the propane it will light even with no butane in the lighter. Personally I like that the heater doesn't have a bunch of electronics to regulate temperature. The Dickinson heaters are basically very simple and fool proof.
I bet the time it takes to get it humming has a direct correlation to the ambient temp. My Coleman stove is the same way. Granted, for a different reason, but once it gets warmed up, she's a screamer, lol. Gah, you got me wanting to winter camp man, lol. Time to hit the woods!!
Cold will severely affect the regulator off the tank . So keep an eye on that piece and if need be wrap the regulator if you can . Your mileage may vary but not all regulators will do that . I would also have it topped off . It’s been awhile you have said .
Great review! I put a Propex HS2000 in my Jeep due to space limits but was considering one of those originally. The Propex has instant start and a thermostat so the issues you are having don't happen with it. It's nice to be able to reach the controller from bed too. :p
Man, I love the ambiance the Dickinson provides and getting low but constant heat all night would be ideal, but ambiance doesn't win out over comfort and ease of use. I've got a Propex in our trailer and that thing is great. No ambiance, but at least it's all automatic and uses a thermostat.
Thinking about putting one in my Cabin in Bandera Texas, need something that will run all night and not use a ton of propane. Don't feel safe running Mr. Heaters at night although I have an old Dyno Glow that has glass in front that works well.
That is a great heater. I wonder if the metal vent gives off radiant heat in addition to the fan driven heat? I would expect that it does from the exhaust gases from the fire.
If you would like your propane to go farther (ie not have so much heat go up the flue), and make it easier to start do the following: In the firebox, there are four punch-out holes leading to the flue. Exhaust gases also flow behind these holes and up the flue. If you'd like to get 40% more heat out of the gas burned, plug these holes with stainless steel washers using stainless steel bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Block off the bottom of the firebox so that if you drop something, it doesn't get lost (remove when finished). This will impede some of your potential heat going up the flue just like an adjustable flue baffle would. I have been doing this with my Newport Dickinson heaters for about ten years. It works great with no adverse side effects.
So, restricting the exhaust--means the fuel charge will be consequentially richer and energy is wasted. Unless you can turn down the gas supply at the same time you reduce exhaust flow, you're doing little more than invalidating the warranty and increasing the risk of CO poisoning. Got a mechanical engineering degree and experience with gaseous fuel combustion? No, I didn't think so.
@@autumnwindassociates7783 I've read elsewhere that blocking off two out of the four holes is fine. Longer flues (if that's what you're using) cause more updraft. Short flues for these are common on boats, this is what the Dickinson propane heaters were/are initially designed for. In campers, the flue can easily be more than twice that length, so much more heat goes out the flue. Also, these heaters, even on a low setting, can be too much when a camper is up to temps. These heaters can go lower though (than the low setting) by pressing in the turn valve adjuster and turning it gently towards off but not completely off. Set like this, blocking off two out of the four holes is logical, as in...low flow in and low flow out = more heat compared to low flow in and High flow out; heat goes almost straight out the flue = less heat. As far as the warranty goes, this modification is easily reversed without damage to the heater. Is it risky? Possibly, but hey! Some folk are built to take risks. Adequate detectors/alarms for carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide cut the main risks down by a large factor which probably makes this modification actually pretty safe. Having propane onboard anything has it's own risks too, that's for sure.
It does look cool but I’ll take function over looks any day. Propex HS2000 works flawlessly it my camper. Have used it in temps as low as 15F and it easily kept a constant 70F inside. Thermostatically controlled so no waking up cold it the night and pfaffing around trying to get it lit. No having to drill a big hole in the roof and worry about potential leaks. Mounts out of the way and just does it’s job quietly and efficiently.
Why not just set it on low flame and low fan once you get it to temperature then just leave it on all night. Leave a window cracked for temperature control if it’s not super cold.
The 'cons' are also 'pros'. Here is why: if it doesn't have an item, it can't fail because of that (non existent) item. I have been leery of the Diesel truck heaters. They have sensors and error codes...not a good sign. They also have a fuel pump, not to mention smelly diesel fuel. Also, don't forget the glow plug! This has none of that. This is camping after all. Lighting it with a match is a plus!
I don't need one of those, but i really want one! ....I'm thinking of making a wood stand for it and using it in a small hot tent, i don't know if that would work but....just an idea.
To regulate the room temperature I believe you could set up a thermostat controlled inlet fan to bring in cool air when the camper gets too hot, Counter productive but more comfortable. What do you think?
Use a welders flint sparker. Works in freezing weather. Several styles great 4 stoves and BBQ not affected by wind if wet while dry as best u can and keep on sparking 2 dry it out.
The lighter issue could be fixed with a welding sparker. easier to spark by squeezing instead of more modern bbq lighters that have a safety in addition to the trigger. I want want of these kimbos so bad for my ZR2
The exhaust does get hot. You can touch t, but it gets hot enough that you don't want to leave your hand on it for long. The outside part of the pipe in air in and the smaller center pipe is exhaust gas out. The only part of these heaters that gets too hot to touch is the glass window. I have had a P12000 on my boat for 15 years.
I have one of these in truck camper that’s well insulated. However when ski camping at 10d (starting from 10d), it takes about 3hrs to get up to 55d. It’s a bit bigger than the kimbo but it’s just too low of a BTU for ski camping. When I run my diesel heater (even without recirculating) I can jump up about 40d in the time it took your Dickensian to do 10d. I love it for 3 seasons but it doesn’t have the BTU for real cold stuff unless in a small camper
That has a thermo coupler and it needs to get hot then it will let the propane flow that's why you need to depress that button with your thumb until it's hot
Great video! Check out AC Infinity. They have solutions for home ac floor vents and av components that can be triggered via a plug in thermostat to kick on at a particular temperature. I imagine some 3d printer ingenuity, paired with the existing kimbo roof vent would auto regulate the temp nicely. Just set the fireplace to 25% at bedtime and let the fan expel the hot air when the desired temp is reached.
Watching winter tent camper videos, I saw one where they buried the propane tank outside the camper to keep the propane warm enough to flow. I don't remember the details, outside temps, etc. Any thoughts to warm and insulate the tank compartment a little?
Non existent for the most part. If it is single digits outside and really warm on the inside the humidity might rise 10% but thats just a perk of living in Colorado where its really dry all year round.
My camper was built in the late 1600s. Old school propane Furnace. Light that one that I have seen. Everyone is using a lighter. That means. After lightning it. The coupler has to heat up by you holding in the nob for a long time. Try this. Get a propane torch. Same one uses in plumbing. Use it to preheat the element first before adding gas. That stove has a big door. Mine has a hole about the size of a 50 cent peace. Screw on cap with a piece of glass in it. Way not fun to light. Yet. Extremely hot when it is on.
I wonder why the heater doesn’t use the ceramic type of burner that is even more efficient in burning the fuel? That would be a great combination to burn the fuel as efficiently as possible plus still have it vented to keep the water vapor out.
Yo, awesome video! Also, because you’ve only got one hand to light the heater when holding the propane on, why not use a torch igniter. The one handed flint ones 🤘🏻
This is a huge hang up for me. We were all set to get a Scout and then the news about the heaters came out. I'd love a Kimbo but they are too short and they told me they had no intentions of making a larger version. So that leaves me without the heater I want or hitting my head all the time.
Those heaters are so cool to look at, shame it doesn’t have some sort of temp control though. Seems like a simple little diesel heater would work better here and require less fiddling, of course you wouldn’t get the aesthetic.
Diesel forced air heaters use a LOT more electric power and are considerably noisier. One of the big pluses of the Dickinson heater is that there are no electronics to fail.
Great video .Is there any condensation that this system makes .? Heater buddy is great but condensation is a problem with it ..looking for system that don't make condensation .
You have to push in the gas knob in until the thermocouple heats up. That is standard on any gaseous fuel valves. It is a safety device that shuts off the flow of fuel in gas the flame should go out for any reason.
I was looking at a few of these heaters a while back for a heat source in a custom van that I'm converting out even though the price tag at $1,500 plus dollars isn't really deterring me it's the built-in safety features and how user-friendly this heaters are and I'd rather have something like this over a Chinese diesel heater
@@jwiereng yeah I wasn't really thrilled about the idea of having to install an extra fuel tank just for diesel fuel in a bunch of other stuff to have a heater, I'd rather use a mr. Buddy heater like I've done in the past with no issues but I've been looking at this kind of heater for a long time and I've heard nothing but good stuff about it and the fact that it would still work without electric the winner for me
@@jwiereng this is why I've been squirreling away some money and making huge sacrifices cuz I want to get a quality heater with low maintenance in the safety Factor so giving up a few luxuries is been worth it to save some money
Thanks Talon for the awesome in-depth review, definitely leaves some food for thought on improvements on the next Gen for the Cyber Truck if the creator of the company is still interested in making a another Gen 2.
Having NOT read every other post below to find a price for this heater I'll just ask (again?), How Much? Also, having used propane heaters, typically of the Empire brand, in a variety of cabins in all sorts of Alaska conditions, makes me wonder why this one does not have a pilot light which, in some situations would be enough to maintain some warmth in a tiny space. Empire heaters do come with thermostats, which is a great feature for those who don't enjoy getting up during nights. And, last words on 'lighting': even Empire heaters can be difficult to start in cold conditions, especially with a Piezo system. Solution: get a small 'Benzomatic' torch for about 25 bucks. They're useful in other situations too and light without matches. They'll heat up the interior of the burning chamber, which helps fuel flow too.
Thanks for this video! Do you know if this heater is the p9000 or p12000? I'm looking to purchase one soon but for a small cabin. Do you ever use it at high elevation? I know it's only rated for 2,000 ft (although even the reps say it can work at a lot higher altitude than that). I'm closer to 7,500 ft. and am trying to figure out if it will function before purchasing one. Like you said, the flame creates such a nice ambience, which is the main reason I want to go with it. TIA!
Thanks for the insight! I know I’ve seen videos at kimbo where they sometimes install diesel heaters or wood stoves instead of the Dickinson. Do you know if that’s something that they still do? I have a diesel heater in my current setup and I really love the heat output.
Curious how much heat is emitted from the top of this unit? If it were closer to ceiling, would it present a fire hazard? This unit was made for at least a 800 cubic foot area. I assume your camper much smaller and therefore the problem regulating the heat. Thx
How much heat comes from the exhaust port outside. I see these being used on Alu-Cabs and I want to use it in a Bison Overland. My concern is with the pop top and the canvas being subject to the heat coming from the “chimney”.
hi brother, have you ecpeiranced any exzaust leakes top of the pipe were it connects or at the bottom were it connects... iv had isheuescat thise spots...thank you
Hey brother, I have a mammoth trailer and purchase it with the heater already installed. How bad of a condensation do you get? I get a good amount of water since trailer isn't insulated. Thanks
Great info...thanks for sharing! Do you crack the vent or a window while running the heater to get some fresh air...maybe help keep it from getting too hot? I have a Propex propane heater in my trailer that puts out nice dry heat but I keep the vent cracked open anyways while running it to let some fresh air in. The Propex has a temp setting just like a home furnace but I turn it off while sleeping cuz the fan has just one speed and is kind of noisy and wakes me when it cycles on and off.
So, seeing as how the gaseous-fueled appliance world (natgas and propane) went to piezo-electric push-button igniters 20+ years ago, why (in the he__) is Dickinson plodding along in the dark ages and forcing its customers to use a match or a lighter for startup? Because it would add a dollar to the purchase cost? Or require them to sub out another 4 hours of engineering design time? Just really curious....
Those heaters use many times the electricity of a Dckinson. All forced air heaters use 2-3 amps to run their fans. The Dickinson uses 0-0.17 amps, or more than 10 times less power. The only electric use on the Dickinson heaters is the fan, which can be turned off to use zero electricity.
For those who use butane lighters just keep it in your pocket/in your bedding. If you keep it warm you won’t have any lighting problems. Mountaineers keep their butane fuel and water bottle etc. in their sleeping bags. Or you can do away with lighters entirely like I have; I just have a small ferro rod built into my Mora Kniv bushcrafter. Use proper technique, moving the rod not the knife, and you can aim/control the volume of sparks quite nicely.
I have one of these on my 24’ cabin boat. Cabin is about 14’, non insulated. I use a 1 gallon tank. It lasts all summer. This is in Alaska with temps in the 40’s f and rainy. I only use low, fan on low or off. I have never had it blow out even while moving. It has been a game changer for fishing and camping comfort. Was using Mr Buddy before and just to much moisture. This dries clothes and cabin instead of making it wetter. When I light I slowly close the door right after lighting and continue holding in the button for 15 to 20 seconds. Great video on the stove. It is truly efficient. The 30 lb tank may be a lifetime supply or at least a year😊.
Looks great...go to Dickinson Diesel Heater best installation ever. I cut my cabinets away on my sailboat so I could put the heater as low as possible and am so glad I did as much more comfortable to not have cold down in the bottom half of the space you live in.
Hey dude, fellow Kimbo owner here. This is my technique when starting the Dickinson and it's proven extremely reliable and not finicky: (I used to do what you do based on what the folks at Kimbo told me when I picked up the camper, but this method seems to work much better).
1. light your lighter or match and place inside the heater
2. turn the knob to low, with the flame source already there to avoid excessive propane build up
3. close the door immediately, while holding the fuel knob pressed in at the low setting
4. release after about 4 seconds
The trick is closing the door immediately. Give it a shot and let me know! Hasn't failed me yet.
I’ve tried all combos like that but I’ll give it another shot and report back 🤘🏼
Your technique works for me.😊
I do what Bob Wells has always done and run my propane cook burner at very low and vent my rig. No problem so far even overnight.
If you rig can breath it works fine..
I recently installed the P9000 in my truck camper. Yes, the Low setting is too hot for such a small space at non freezing temps. However, I found that you can actually self regulate the flame lower than the "Low" setting by moving the knob between the Off and Low positions. I do this after the camper gets up to temp. It's a very small range to work with, but you can get the flame much smaller. This will use much less propane and allow you to use the heater in more mild temps. I've run it all night like this with no issues, and the camper won't get too hot. I'm sure Dickinson wouldn't recommend this...they probably only want you to lock into their High or Low setting. So, try at your own risk...but it works.
Can also relate the temp more running the source of propane half or three quarters open on the valve
Bring the lighter to the bed will stay relatively warm. Thank you for finally being one of the rare people that actually use a real time thermometer when talking about a camper heater. You would think folks trying to sell a heating solution might want to do that.
Nice talon, thanks for sharing. I think ive always seem that little thing as the ultimate camper heater but didn't think about the fact it doesn't have temp regulation. I love the idea of the visible flame, makes such a difference on atmosphere, but i can also see the advantages of a diesel heater as well with easy starting and temp control.
Definitely pros and cons to each. Another thing to think about with diesel heaters is that you need to rebuild them every other year or so.
@@TalonSei Curious, What requires the rebuilding of diesel heaters? Is it just a maintenance / safety precaution?
@@HeshmoMedia they just dont like running on low for extended periods, just crank them up to high like once a month for while and it helps with that big time. check out truckhouselife channel he has a vid on wabasto heaters that is awesome
I've been using one of these heaters for the last 10 years in my RV. The only issue I've ever had is the fan. The fan looks heavy duty, made from metal as opposed to plastic. After lots of use the fan starts to make more noise that I could put up with so I replased with a new one from Dickinson; not cheap. This fan too finally failed in the same manner. I decided to try something else, something a lot cheaper and quieter. I found a 12 volt "muffin" fan that not only fit in heater but used at least 2 of the original mounting screws. I was a little worried about heat effecting the fan but because it's below the fire box and blows cold air up and around the fire box it hasn't been an issue. Way cheaper and much quieter. Great heater which even works when you're driving down the road. Wind has no effect on it.
So glad for this indepth and honest perspective.
Thank you for making this video. Now I know what to do in my camper. I actually asked this question in another video you posted, and the answer was here.
On the propane tank gauge. Buy a tank with a built in gauge, because they have a float inside that actually measures the level of the liquid propane. The ones you add to the top of the tank at the hose only measure pressure in the tank, making them wildly inaccurate. The pressure in the tank varies greatly with the air temperature around the tank. About all they will really tell you is if the tank is empty.
I have had 2 campers with automatic propane heaters. a 10 1/2 foot nothstar pop up and a 4 wheel grandby. I have no complaints about the heaters I owned.
I have a propane gauge on my tanks and they work great. I bought a 2 pack for around 19 dollars on Amazon.
I’d be checking for snow on the chimney also . I’m hoping to get this heater in the future.
I bought a two little refillable butane torches from Amazon that seem much more convenient for me than the usual click stick with a trigger one that came with the Kimbo. IEIK Butane Torch Lighter 2 Pack Refillable Torch Lighter Adjustable Jet Flame Butane Lighter Long Pen Lighter for BBQ Stove Grill Candle Camping 6-inch (Gas Not Included) But I will add some matches too. I have fired up the Dickenson stove a couple of times but not yet actually used it.
Good information....love the ambience. Cheers from Victoria, British Columbia.
Spot on review my exact thoughts on the heater when I use mine.
Have you tried a USB wand lighter? That's what I use when camping, and seems to work well.
One of those little propane canisters with a blowtorch attachment if the best way to have a reliable flame for fire. Or dabs.
Hi Talon, thanks for the comprehensive overview on the Dickinson Heater. It’s really surprising to me that a heater as well built as the Dickinson is lacking features found in gas grills and smokers at half the price. The one item that needs to be standard equipment on all propane heaters and grills is a Piezoelectric Starter. Dickinson sells one, but it doesn’t look as though it’s an available aftermarket part (sold under Dickinson BBQ grill replacement parts, #15-101 @ $30.14) for your stove or the other larger propane stoves. It would have to be more of a retrofit, e.g. drilling through the SS, in order to mount it. But it’s the one thing I would definitely do to as far as upgrades go. Maybe Mark should look into including this on his builds.
As a former owner of a kimbo camper, when you refill, make sure they’re not using a long rod to fill your propane canister. Basically, you should read your manual.
I was in the Grand Canyon some years back and had no problems lighting my propane furnace in the cold, but at that time they didn’t have the extra extension on the outside, so sometimes the wind would blow out the flame.
But on the newer models, that’s not an issue anymore. Plus, you can send away for the extra enclosure extension and put it on yourself. I did it and they have a video online to see how it’s done.
Suggest you check out a plasma lighter for candles
rig up a pilot light in it, not to run allways but to switch to after you've heated the camper. My camper stayed warm just by the pilot light of the heater & my parents just used the propane lamp built into their vintage camper for heating.
Propane is my choice. I live in my van,rv, in Wisconsin. I like heat. I been doing this well over 20+ year's and before wheel's it's was tent's. Peace ✌️✌️🇺🇲
I have a couple of comments. I have had a Dickinson P12000 on my boat for about 15 years so I have plenty of experience with the heater. When you light the heater you can close and seal the door withing 10-15 seconds although you do have to hold the propane knob for the 30-60 seconds. That is to allow the thermocouple to warm up so it won't shut the propane off. I think your issue with the heater going out when you partly close the door is simply air blowing in the narrow opening going fast enough to blow the flame out.
As far as lighting the heater with a cold butane lighter goes, you don't actually need the flame. All you need is the spark you get when you pull the trigger on the butane lighter. So if you position the lighter so the spark is in the propane it will light even with no butane in the lighter.
Personally I like that the heater doesn't have a bunch of electronics to regulate temperature. The Dickinson heaters are basically very simple and fool proof.
I bet the time it takes to get it humming has a direct correlation to the ambient temp. My Coleman stove is the same way. Granted, for a different reason, but once it gets warmed up, she's a screamer, lol. Gah, you got me wanting to winter camp man, lol. Time to hit the woods!!
Great setup
Excellent stuff bro
Cold will severely affect the regulator off the tank . So keep an eye on that piece and if need be wrap the regulator if you can . Your mileage may vary but not all regulators will do that . I would also have it topped off . It’s been awhile you have said .
Thank you for your video. I just installed my Dickenson in my Sprinter. We will see if it keeps us warm…
Great review! I put a Propex HS2000 in my Jeep due to space limits but was considering one of those originally. The Propex has instant start and a thermostat so the issues you are having don't happen with it. It's nice to be able to reach the controller from bed too. :p
I leaning toward this heater too. Do you store your propane tank outside? If so, any issues with function when the temps get low?
More camping videos! The kimbo is so sick!
Man, I love the ambiance the Dickinson provides and getting low but constant heat all night would be ideal, but ambiance doesn't win out over comfort and ease of use. I've got a Propex in our trailer and that thing is great. No ambiance, but at least it's all automatic and uses a thermostat.
Thinking about putting one in my Cabin in Bandera Texas, need something that will run all night and not use a ton of propane. Don't feel safe running Mr. Heaters at night although I have an old Dyno Glow that has glass in front that works well.
That is a great heater. I wonder if the metal vent gives off radiant heat in addition to the fan driven heat? I would expect that it does from the exhaust gases from the fire.
Thank goodness he pulled out those matches
Let's go! Looks cozy!
If you would like your propane to go farther (ie not have so much heat go up the flue), and make it easier to start do the following: In the firebox, there are four punch-out holes leading to the flue. Exhaust gases also flow behind these holes and up the flue. If you'd like to get 40% more heat out of the gas burned, plug these holes with stainless steel washers using stainless steel bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Block off the bottom of the firebox so that if you drop something, it doesn't get lost (remove when finished). This will impede some of your potential heat going up the flue just like an adjustable flue baffle would. I have been doing this with my Newport Dickinson heaters for about ten years. It works great with no adverse side effects.
So, restricting the exhaust--means the fuel charge will be consequentially richer and energy is wasted. Unless you can turn down the gas supply at the same time you reduce exhaust flow, you're doing little more than invalidating the warranty and increasing the risk of CO poisoning. Got a mechanical engineering degree and experience with gaseous fuel combustion? No, I didn't think so.
@@autumnwindassociates7783 I've read elsewhere that blocking off two out of the four holes is fine. Longer flues (if that's what you're using) cause more updraft. Short flues for these are common on boats, this is what the Dickinson propane heaters were/are initially designed for.
In campers, the flue can easily be more than twice that length, so much more heat goes out the flue.
Also, these heaters, even on a low setting, can be too much when a camper is up to temps.
These heaters can go lower though (than the low setting) by pressing in the turn valve adjuster and turning it gently towards off but not completely off.
Set like this, blocking off two out of the four holes is logical, as in...low flow in and low flow out = more heat compared to low flow in and High flow out; heat goes almost straight out the flue = less heat.
As far as the warranty goes, this modification is easily reversed without damage to the heater.
Is it risky? Possibly, but hey! Some folk are built to take risks.
Adequate detectors/alarms for carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide cut the main risks down by a large factor which probably makes this modification actually pretty safe.
Having propane onboard anything has it's own risks too, that's for sure.
Nice video. Have you considered a USB Rechargable Arc lighter instead of matches or butane?
It does look cool but I’ll take function over looks any day. Propex HS2000 works flawlessly it my camper. Have used it in temps as low as 15F and it easily kept a constant 70F inside. Thermostatically controlled so no waking up cold it the night and pfaffing around trying to get it lit. No having to drill a big hole in the roof and worry about potential leaks. Mounts out of the way and just does it’s job quietly and efficiently.
Why not just set it on low flame and low fan once you get it to temperature then just leave it on all night. Leave a window cracked for temperature control if it’s not super cold.
The 'cons' are also 'pros'. Here is why: if it doesn't have an item, it can't fail because of that (non existent) item. I have been leery of the Diesel truck heaters. They have sensors and error codes...not a good sign. They also have a fuel pump, not to mention smelly diesel fuel. Also, don't forget the glow plug! This has none of that. This is camping after all. Lighting it with a match is a plus!
Yup !
i have a buddy heater it is great take anywhere.
I don't need one of those, but i really want one! ....I'm thinking of making a wood stand for it and using it in a small hot tent, i don't know if that would work but....just an idea.
To regulate the room temperature I believe you could set up a thermostat controlled inlet fan to bring in cool air when the camper gets too hot, Counter productive but more comfortable. What do you think?
I think that would be a great idea. Maybe not even need a fan, just a louver controlled high vent and low inlet
Use a welders flint sparker. Works in freezing weather. Several styles great 4 stoves and BBQ not affected by wind if wet while dry as best u can and keep on sparking 2 dry it out.
The lighter issue could be fixed with a welding sparker. easier to spark by squeezing instead of more modern bbq lighters that have a safety in addition to the trigger. I want want of these kimbos so bad for my ZR2
Does the pipe get hot to the touch or is the outside pipe the inlet air and the inside pipe the exhaust?
The exhaust does get hot. You can touch t, but it gets hot enough that you don't want to leave your hand on it for long. The outside part of the pipe in air in and the smaller center pipe is exhaust gas out. The only part of these heaters that gets too hot to touch is the glass window. I have had a P12000 on my boat for 15 years.
I wonder if a Cubic Mini would be a good choice?
I have one of these in truck camper that’s well insulated. However when ski camping at 10d (starting from 10d), it takes about 3hrs to get up to 55d. It’s a bit bigger than the kimbo but it’s just too low of a BTU for ski camping.
When I run my diesel heater (even without recirculating) I can jump up about 40d in the time it took your Dickensian to do 10d.
I love it for 3 seasons but it doesn’t have the BTU for real cold stuff unless in a small camper
That has a thermo coupler and it needs to get hot then it will let the propane flow that's why you need to depress that button with your thumb until it's hot
Much cleaner than the diesel one. Im wondering, does the fan strong enough to keep the floor level warm ?
Those are so darned attractive. Do you have problems with your system tanks freezing since it doesn't duct air into the tank areas?
also try using that long lighter to preheat the thermocouple for 5 seconds before you allow the gas to flow.
Great vid!
Great video!
Check out AC Infinity.
They have solutions for home ac floor vents and av components that can be triggered via a plug in thermostat to kick on at a particular temperature.
I imagine some 3d printer ingenuity, paired with the existing kimbo roof vent would auto regulate the temp nicely.
Just set the fireplace to 25% at bedtime and let the fan expel the hot air when the desired temp is reached.
Gram per hour would be nice to know but thank you for sharing
Great Video
Watching winter tent camper videos, I saw one where they buried the propane tank outside the camper to keep the propane warm enough to flow. I don't remember the details, outside temps, etc.
Any thoughts to warm and insulate the tank compartment a little?
Can you add a gas regulator prior to the heater, so you can control the minimum flame size better?
With propane and two occupants, how is the condensation in there?
Non existent for the most part. If it is single digits outside and really warm on the inside the humidity might rise 10% but thats just a perk of living in Colorado where its really dry all year round.
My camper was built in the late 1600s. Old school propane Furnace. Light that one that I have seen. Everyone is using a lighter. That means. After lightning it. The coupler has to heat up by you holding in the nob for a long time. Try this. Get a propane torch. Same one uses in plumbing. Use it to preheat the element first before adding gas. That stove has a big door. Mine has a hole about the size of a 50 cent peace. Screw on cap with a piece of glass in it. Way not fun to light. Yet. Extremely hot when it is on.
I wonder why the heater doesn’t use the ceramic type of burner that is even more efficient in burning the fuel? That would be a great combination to burn the fuel as efficiently as possible plus still have it vented to keep the water vapor out.
Yo, awesome video! Also, because you’ve only got one hand to light the heater when holding the propane on, why not use a torch igniter. The one handed flint ones 🤘🏻
I have one on my scout camper and i adore it. Sadly scout wont be installing new ones going fourth. Thats why im leaning on a kimbo in a few years
This is a huge hang up for me. We were all set to get a Scout and then the news about the heaters came out. I'd love a Kimbo but they are too short and they told me they had no intentions of making a larger version. So that leaves me without the heater I want or hitting my head all the time.
Those heaters are so cool to look at, shame it doesn’t have some sort of temp control though. Seems like a simple little diesel heater would work better here and require less fiddling, of course you wouldn’t get the aesthetic.
Diesel forced air heaters use a LOT more electric power and are considerably noisier. One of the big pluses of the Dickinson heater is that there are no electronics to fail.
Would a spark ignitor work? They light up welding torches pretty quick kinda the same concept 🤷🏽♂️
Great video .Is there any condensation that this system makes .? Heater buddy is great but condensation is a problem with it ..looking for system that don't make condensation .
You have to push in the gas knob in until the thermocouple heats up. That is standard on any gaseous fuel valves. It is a safety device that shuts off the flow of fuel in gas the flame should go out for any reason.
I was looking at a few of these heaters a while back for a heat source in a custom van that I'm converting out even though the price tag at $1,500 plus dollars isn't really deterring me it's the built-in safety features and how user-friendly this heaters are and I'd rather have something like this over a Chinese diesel heater
ya, this kind uses less battery. No fuel pump, no fan needed, fire will still work when electric fan is off.
@@jwiereng yeah I wasn't really thrilled about the idea of having to install an extra fuel tank just for diesel fuel in a bunch of other stuff to have a heater, I'd rather use a mr. Buddy heater like I've done in the past with no issues but I've been looking at this kind of heater for a long time and I've heard nothing but good stuff about it and the fact that it would still work without electric the winner for me
@@michaelmyers3892 ya, best thing about this heater compared to Mr Buddy is that no additional moisture is added to the space.
@@jwiereng this is why I've been squirreling away some money and making huge sacrifices cuz I want to get a quality heater with low maintenance in the safety Factor so giving up a few luxuries is been worth it to save some money
I put a piezo starter on, off of eBay…Roof vent is your thermostat.
Thanks Talon for the awesome in-depth review, definitely leaves some food for thought on improvements on the next Gen for the Cyber Truck if the creator of the company is still interested in making a another Gen 2.
The lighters work better if you hold the trigger a couple sec before striking allowing gas to travel the length of the tip.
Having NOT read every other post below to find a price for this heater I'll just ask (again?), How Much?
Also, having used propane heaters, typically of the Empire brand, in a variety of cabins in all sorts of Alaska conditions, makes me wonder why this one does not have a pilot light which, in some situations would be enough to maintain some warmth in a tiny space. Empire heaters do come with thermostats, which is a great feature for those who don't enjoy getting up during nights.
And, last words on 'lighting': even Empire heaters can be difficult to start in cold conditions, especially with a Piezo system. Solution: get a small 'Benzomatic' torch for about 25 bucks. They're useful in other situations too and light without matches. They'll heat up the interior of the burning chamber, which helps fuel flow too.
Thanks for this video! Do you know if this heater is the p9000 or p12000? I'm looking to purchase one soon but for a small cabin. Do you ever use it at high elevation? I know it's only rated for 2,000 ft (although even the reps say it can work at a lot higher altitude than that). I'm closer to 7,500 ft. and am trying to figure out if it will function before purchasing one. Like you said, the flame creates such a nice ambience, which is the main reason I want to go with it. TIA!
Have you looked at ARC lighters? They are electric, rechargeable via usb and do not take butane.
You don't have to run the fan if you don't want to. Still safe and the room will stay cooler away from heater.
Thanks for the insight! I know I’ve seen videos at kimbo where they sometimes install diesel heaters or wood stoves instead of the Dickinson. Do you know if that’s something that they still do? I have a diesel heater in my current setup and I really love the heat output.
Not only do they have an alternative diesel heater, you can also get a wood stove heater, although I prefer the propane.
heard it has a hard time lighting at altitude....needs a different orifice... any info on that?
I live in CO and have never had an issue with it in high elevation
Have not found anything that works in higher elevations ie 8000 up. This any different?
It has worked all the way up to 12,000+
Curious how much heat is emitted from the top of this unit? If it were closer to ceiling, would it present a fire hazard? This unit was made for at least a 800 cubic foot area. I assume your camper much smaller and therefore the problem regulating the heat. Thx
Whats slides are you wearing? I always see Mike wearing them too
Why not a diesel heater ? ....that said your marine heater looks beautiful.
Thanks for the review, I’ll stick with my diesel heater.
Somebody needs to make an affordable one for the real people who live in vans and one we can get in England
How much heat comes from the exhaust port outside. I see these being used on Alu-Cabs and I want to use it in a Bison Overland. My concern is with the pop top and the canvas being subject to the heat coming from the “chimney”.
I see two model P9000 or P12000 what model did you use Thanks Marc
Thanks so much for the review. I have a question, Does it smell? I have a Mr buddy heater but the smell is not pleasant. Thanks.
Zero smell. It’s all contained in the unit.
@@TalonSei Thank you
How much heat do you lose through the vent ? Do you have condensation on inside of your windows ?
Hi! Thanks for this review, we love the Kimberley content! Does the heater get hot to the touch? The glass or tube? Thanks again!
Yeah it gets pretty toasty
Thank you so much for taking the time to answer!
Also I cannot believe I just noticed it says Kimberley….
Will an open window or open roof vent slow or interfere with the draft in the dickinson chiminey?
No, the Dickinson is completely self contained and sealed
How did you cut the hole for the thermometer/humidity gage?
hi brother, have you ecpeiranced any exzaust leakes top of the pipe were it connects or at the bottom were it connects... iv had isheuescat thise spots...thank you
I have not experienced any issues with mine
Hey brother, I have a mammoth trailer and purchase it with the heater already installed. How bad of a condensation do you get? I get a good amount of water since trailer isn't insulated.
Thanks
Great info...thanks for sharing! Do you crack the vent or a window while running the heater to get some fresh air...maybe help keep it from getting too hot? I have a Propex propane heater in my trailer that puts out nice dry heat but I keep the vent cracked open anyways while running it to let some fresh air in. The Propex has a temp setting just like a home furnace but I turn it off while sleeping cuz the fan has just one speed and is kind of noisy and wakes me when it cycles on and off.
I haven’t done that yet but I could since the windows have little half stops to keep them cracked open but locked.
The only thing I do is turn the upper fan enclosure open a crack just a hair! But I don’t run the fan.
@@simon359 exactly...just enough to let the humidity from your respiration to escape
So, seeing as how the gaseous-fueled appliance world (natgas and propane) went to piezo-electric push-button igniters 20+ years ago, why (in the he__) is Dickinson plodding along in the dark ages and forcing its customers to use a match or a lighter for startup? Because it would add a dollar to the purchase cost? Or require them to sub out another 4 hours of engineering design time? Just really curious....
Can you get these in England and aren't they really expensive.
I think for me a Propex heater makes the most sense.They have a thermostat and are direct vent,so no condensation
Those heaters use many times the electricity of a Dckinson. All forced air heaters use 2-3 amps to run their fans. The Dickinson uses 0-0.17 amps, or more than 10 times less power. The only electric use on the Dickinson heaters is the fan, which can be turned off to use zero electricity.