Ann----I started PWC (playing with clay) in another century. I drew the same conclusions you did but loved porcelain so much that I searched for a simple solution.... I mixed 3/4 porcelain + 1/4 ungrogged b-mix and VOILA--- The b-mix provides the extra stability and acts and reacts just like porcelain without the headaches. I don't venture into earthenware much. There's just nothing like the silky feel of porcelain.
I. LOVE. THIS. VIDEO. Thank you so much for making it. I just watched 5 seasons of "the Great Pottery Throw Down" and this taught me more than that did. You have a rare gift.
I love how generous you are with details and results of your own testing. Thank you so very much. It killed me to see the honey bees dripped upon!!🤣 these results were so helpful.
haha, that is so funny. I think I could have brushed one less layer of glaze on the surface, but it is a new glaze for me and I need to do some experimenting with it. Poor little bees 🙂
Haha!!! ......thanks for watching Jessica. Im glad you enjoyed it and I hope it clears up some of the mystery behind why there are so many choices of clays.
Great video Ann. I have found when using grog clay mud tool sponges pull less grog to the surface leaving a smoother look. Plus if you use a soft rib over the area where grog has risen you can smooth it out some. Hope this helps.
Hi Kim. I was using a very soft red rib to smooth the grogged stoneware. It seems that you can smooth it when it is fresh,.....when the fine clay particles are on the surface and plastic. when the clay stiffens up to leather hard, I have not had good luck trying to smooth it out without removing that layer of fine clay particles. At least that is my experience. Thanks for the tips!!!
Wonderful! I love the details you provide and how beautiful even your test pieces turn out. I hope the calico sorta crawling around the underglaze bits was inspiring for you!
@@micheledickey4066 after further review, we thought because the stoneware was more porous it absorbed more of the calico vs the porcelain which rejected it (because of its tighter molecular structure) more and allowed it to drool. At least that’s what our folks in the LSP research facility postulated.
I bought porcelain about 3 months after first learning to throw with stoneware. It was different in so many ways. But after learning a bit learned to love it.
Hi Carol. Oh good. If this is your first time using porcelain, my advice is to basically figure out the clay's personality and work within those limits. It may get a little frustrating at first, but dont give up. Have fun!
I've been thinking about moving from air dry clay to something I can actually make useable cups and bowls and things, and this is making me wonder if I should move to stoneware. Painting with the underglaze is something I honestly never thought about since this is all new to me, as I've been eyeing some painting stencils that would make for pretty designs on mugs and plates.
Very helpful demonstration for me. I have not tried porcelain yet. Been using the clay named KGM provided by the studio. It has no grogs and and can be fired to either earthen/stoneware. Personally, like stoneware as it seems much durable than earthenware:-)
11:09 You can fix this issue. The solution is to burnish the grog back down into the clay. Use a rubber rib or smooth stone. Works up to bone dry stage. When trimming a pot with grog you will often get long lines/scratches where the blade scrapes along the surface. As a last step, wet a smooth sponge and dampen the walls thoroughly as the wheel spins. This will make an outer coating of slip where all the blemishes from trimming are filled in. Then you give it a minute or two to dry, and burnish again with the rubber rib. The result should be smooth like with porcelain.
Great video Ann!! Love all the different examples you did comparing the two clays. I've been using stoneware clay (b-mix) since I started pottery (throwing) almost 3 years, but just started throwing with porcelain last week, and I'm in love with it!! Just bisqued my first pieces of porcelain and can't wait to glaze. I love carving, so I think porcelain will be my go to from now on.
THANK YOU for this video, Ann! I have really been throwing myself into pottery this last year (heh) and it’s intense how much there is to learn. This is so helpful!
Do you find that cracks can happen more often with porcelain DURING the bisque firing? If so, is it likely still due to not compressing the bottoms enough?
Hi Mary, there are a number of reasons why porcelain cracks...air pockets (lack of good wedging), lack of compression, too much water, drying too fast etc. Porcelain is finicky....its a Diva clay. Wish there was an easy answer...may want to try making your bottoms thicker, compress on BOTH sides of bottom well, and dry S L O W!
Hi Cariad. My thinking is that each clay has its own personality in regards to color, and raw materials and in what aspects it is finicky to work with. I would suggest figuring out what path you are taking in your own pottery journey as far as how you want to construct, decorate and glaze...then figuring out what clay is the best for the most professional results. . For this video, I wanted to compare more extreme examples (ultra smooth vs. ultra grogged) so that people could see the obvious differences...plus it is what I had on my shelf 🙂
My question was out of curiosity as I am interested in the difference between smooth stoneware and porcelain in handling. I know stoneware can vary between grogged and smooth and as I don’t use porcelain I was genuinely interested in your opinion if your experiment result would be different with a smoother SW. I do live your videos BTw and find them inspiring.
@@cariadwales1979 That is so sweet Cariad. Thanks for watching and I am glad you are enjoying them. Many people do prefer the porcelain like smooth non-grog stoneware to porcelain. I have tried them both and dont remember a lot of difference in a lot of difference for working with them but like I said, I may be alone in that as others say they have a lot more success with the smooth stoneware. The reason I prefer my porcelain is not only the smoothness, the forgiveness for my painting mistakes, but I couldnt find a smooth stoneware with the same bright "cool" white color. The stonewares were on the warm white side which didnt let my underglaze colors pop like I wanted them to. Again, it all depends on what you want to do with the clay as to what choice of clay you choose. Good luck!!!
Hi lovely lady, can you please cover the topic on solving craze on pots. My pots are coming out of the kiln with craze crack lines and are making tinkering sounds. This is frustrating me. How can I solve this problem please?
Hi Only, When you get crazing on pots after the glaze firing, that is because the glaze does not "fit" correctly to the clay you are using. What you need to do is either experiment using that glaze on other clay bodies or experiment with tweaking the glaze (usually that would require getting someone with a lot of knowledge about the way the raw materials work together to do the tweaking). I had to do that with one of my glazes. One other thing you could do is experiment with making other glaze recipes (that you might be able to find on Glazy website) that are similar to the one you are using. That all said, some potters actually like glazes that craze and do the pinging, but there is a lot of controversy about whether or not those crazing glazes will effect the functionality of the pottery with food. Good luck.
@@annruel1982 Thank you very much for the clarity, I bought a lot of clay and I don’t think I can change to other clay with the amount of clay I already have in the house, so I might have to take the option of experimenting with different glazes. You see I normally use commercial glazes, I think I might have to make my own glazes from not on because I don’t like seeing the glaze craze on my pots. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my comment :)
@@theonly6359 I think that is a good idea. Experiment with different glazes to find ones that will not craze. Making your own glazes is also a good idea as you are more flexible to make various combinations and to tweak recipes when needed. It is also a good learning experience. Good luck 🙂
great video although would it have been fairer to use a non grog-stonewhear to give a better comparison. the groged clay started out with a dissavantge from the start. i will say the color comparisons were cool. it was intresting how the porcelain cylinder had more glaze runing. again thank for a great video.
Actually there is no disadvantage. Both clays have their places depending on what you are using them for. There was no winner or loser. I definitely could have added that third choice of a smoother stoneware to the mix, but I would have had to go down to Orlando to purchase some, haha. Also the more clay added to the comparison, the more complicated and long the video became, so I just narrowed down the choice of clay to the two extreme choices of clays,,,the porcelain and a grogged stoneware. I get a lot of questions about grog, so I thought it would be a good chance to educate people on what that was. Im glad you enjoyed it. thanks for watching
thank for the explanation. it is a great video. i have used both groged stone whaer abd non groged. my clay of choice is laguna B-Mix5 creamy color holds up well but too much water and it get soft in a hury. thanks again
@@allenfitz1 I have heard a lot of good things about the B-Mix clay. Thanks for the recommendation. I will have to give that a try...see if they sell that in my neck of the woods. Have a great day Allen
Hi Caroline. I am not really sure. I looked on the Standard (that is the brand of clay it is) website but it is not stated there in percentages. Sorry about that. Cheers to you in Europe!!
Hey there Ann. As always you have given us a very informative video! I have only thrown twice and used stoneware without grog I only use stoneware without grog for my normal every day handbuilding pots. if you were to use stoneware without grog it would act so much more like porcelain. I just wonder if beginners are going to assume that all stoneware has grog in it. Anyway I love all the pieces.
Hi Michele. Thanks for the tips. It was a difficult decision on how to approach this topic. I thought about adding more clay choices to the mix, but it got really confusing so I just stuck with clays on the opposite end of the spectrum. Porcelain and then a groggy stoneware. I probably should have said somewhere in the video that not all stoneware has grog in it, but i get the question a lot ..what is grog...so I thought this would make a nice contrast to the porcelain and be a good way to show people what the differences are. I like the Porcelain-like stonewares too, but the color of the porcelain ...that it is such a bright cool white...really is necessary for how I decorate. You know what I mean
@@annruel1982 Yes I know what you mean. I use a very white stoneware as well as a buff. I would like to try some that is a bit darker with specks but I’m honestly afraid of having glaze issues with new clays when I have invested sooo much in the two glazes I use.
Hi Kathy. You could add that one to the mix. I just thought I would keep it simple by comparing a grogged clay vs. a non grogged clay...and porcelain was what I had on my shelf. :-)
Hi Quilt Dimensions. Actually it is not an acrylic paint, but it is "underglaze". Regardless that the title has the word "glaze" in it, it is not a glaze. Underglaze has more of a clay base with other raw materials and colorants added to it that when fired on the pottery become permanent to the surface.
@@annruel1982 Thank you so much for that info. I'd like to ask if the underglaze and glaze require two separate kiln process' or can it be just one process. For example after you paint your design and let it dry , then glaze and lastly you can heat. I'm not sure if that's clear. Thank you, Ann.
@@quiltdimensions2046 I think I understand. Underglazes can be applied to clay that is either greenware (clay that has not been fired at all) or to bisqueware (pottery that has been fired to a low temperature to harden it but not waterproof it yet so that it can still absorb glaze). I prefer painting with underglazes when it is in the greenware stage as it is easier to sponge off mistakes. After I underglaze the pottery, I bisque fire it. After it is bisque fired, I glaze it to that higher temperature so it will be waterproof and you can eat and drink from it. I have workshop videos you can watch for a low price if you are interested. I think Jim added them to the description section under the video if you are interested in the whole process.
Hi Ann, your video was very informative. My question to you is which is the preferred clay to use when extruding a very thin walled tube? I have tried both earthenware and stoneware and both were not plastic enough to go smoothly through my 3 mm opening in my wall secured 4” extruder. Do you think a porcelain would do a better job? What clay body would you recommend I try?
Hi Rohrshack. That is an interesting question. I dont have an extruder but we used to have an extruder in the studio where I taught. If I remember correctly, my students would use all kinds of clays in the extruder. the trick to being successful with it was getting the clay to the right consistency. If the clay was too stiff, it was hard to push through the extruder plus the clay was not plastic enough and had cracks. If the clay is too watered down, it is too sticky to form into the shape you want. It is the Goldilocks syndrome. REally condition your clay so that it goes through easily and forms the shape you want. For thinner walls, I might experiment with paper clay. the paper makes the clay a bit more durable to withstand the stresses of the shrinkage on thin forms.
@@annruel1982 Thank you so much for your reply. When I last requested help for this issue, several people suggested various clays. Unfortunately, the minimum amount that I could order was 50 pounds. I ended up with 250 pounds of clay, none of which served my purpose. I tried each, both earthenware and stoneware, watered down as much as possible and none of them worked for me. Is there an additive, other than water, that will make clay more plastic so that it will extrude with a 3 mm opening?
@@rOHRshackartpottery Hmmm... I cant think of anything you could add. One more thing you might try is to extrude the clay into a bit thicker walled tube so your clay will run through the extruder.....and then after the clay is extruded, stret out the tube to the thinner wall that you want after maybe by holding it carefully so the clay will hang and stretch vertically. You. may have to cut off the top and bottom thicker sections of the tube, but the center of the tubes should be thinner. Does that make sense?
@@annruel1982 that would be a difficult judgement call that would need careful monitoring. Thank you for the novel idea but it will not be possible although conceivable. I am still toying with thinning the clay down.
Superb as always. I like the investigative way you tackle your projects. I am a much more slap-happy person in this respect. I have a lot less patience. I want to see results. So my pieces either work or not. You could call it my investigation IS in the making... I tried to work with porcelain a couple of times and found it very frustrating. But I love the qualities of it. I guess, I have to leave that to the great porcelain Makers of this world, such as you are. I even tried to work with a porcelain that has fibres in it, like porcelain paperclay. That seems to be even worse. So, I might turn it into buttons or such. I hope we will continue to see your work on here for a long time.
Stoneware looks much better. I am a Beginner. I started with Earthenware which l liked. I tried another clay body, Porcelain mixed with another white clay body. I didn't enjoy the experience. So my next go is Standard Stoneware
Ann----I started PWC (playing with clay) in another century. I drew the same conclusions you did but loved porcelain so much that I searched for a simple solution.... I mixed 3/4 porcelain + 1/4 ungrogged b-mix and VOILA--- The b-mix provides the extra stability and acts and reacts just like porcelain without the headaches. I don't venture into earthenware much. There's just nothing like the silky feel of porcelain.
I. LOVE. THIS. VIDEO. Thank you so much for making it. I just watched 5 seasons of "the Great Pottery Throw Down" and this taught me more than that did. You have a rare gift.
Haha, you are so kind Tari! Thanks so much for watching and I am glad it was helpful!
You're videos are so informative and enjoyable. Really helps me learn faster and answers many questions!
Glad to help!
Great video! We are so lucky that you are so generous with all of your testing, research, and results. You are so talented!! Thank you!
Aww..that is so nice Chris. Thanks so much for watching!!!
I love how generous you are with details and results of your own testing. Thank you so very much. It killed me to see the honey bees dripped upon!!🤣 these results were so helpful.
haha, that is so funny. I think I could have brushed one less layer of glaze on the surface, but it is a new glaze for me and I need to do some experimenting with it. Poor little bees 🙂
I lOVE those little bees!! They will withstand those glazes…I have such faith in them❣️
@@jsud5559 😁
Great, what a match! I learned a lot and no blood was shed!
Haha!!! ......thanks for watching Jessica. Im glad you enjoyed it and I hope it clears up some of the mystery behind why there are so many choices of clays.
Great video Ann. I have found when using grog clay mud tool sponges pull less grog to the surface leaving a smoother look. Plus if you use a soft rib over the area where grog has risen you can smooth it out some. Hope this helps.
Hi Kim. I was using a very soft red rib to smooth the grogged stoneware. It seems that you can smooth it when it is fresh,.....when the fine clay particles are on the surface and plastic. when the clay stiffens up to leather hard, I have not had good luck trying to smooth it out without removing that layer of fine clay particles. At least that is my experience. Thanks for the tips!!!
Wonderful! I love the details you provide and how beautiful even your test pieces turn out. I hope the calico sorta crawling around the underglaze bits was inspiring for you!
Yes...lots more ideas coming from that glaze!
I cant believe it did that! That is soo cool. I also noticed that the glazes on the porcelain seemed to run but not very much at all on the stoneware.
@@micheledickey4066 after further review, we thought because the stoneware was more porous it absorbed more of the calico vs the porcelain which rejected it (because of its tighter molecular structure) more and allowed it to drool. At least that’s what our folks in the LSP research facility postulated.
I bought porcelain about 3 months after first learning to throw with stoneware. It was different in so many ways. But after learning a bit learned to love it.
I don't work with either clay but I found this video really fascinating!!
context like this makethe internet great
thank you for filming this beautiful art work
Thank you Ann. The video was very helpful as I bought a bag of cone 5 porcelain to try.
Hi Carol. Oh good. If this is your first time using porcelain, my advice is to basically figure out the clay's personality and work within those limits. It may get a little frustrating at first, but dont give up. Have fun!
I've been thinking about moving from air dry clay to something I can actually make useable cups and bowls and things, and this is making me wonder if I should move to stoneware.
Painting with the underglaze is something I honestly never thought about since this is all new to me, as I've been eyeing some painting stencils that would make for pretty designs on mugs and plates.
Thank you! Appreciate the video. Going to try porcelain for the first time!
You're a great teacher 👏. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, very inspiring.
Very helpful demonstration for me. I have not tried porcelain yet. Been using the clay named KGM provided by the studio. It has no grogs and and can be fired to either earthen/stoneware. Personally, like stoneware as it seems much durable than earthenware:-)
11:09 You can fix this issue. The solution is to burnish the grog back down into the clay. Use a rubber rib or smooth stone. Works up to bone dry stage.
When trimming a pot with grog you will often get long lines/scratches where the blade scrapes along the surface. As a last step, wet a smooth sponge and dampen the walls thoroughly as the wheel spins. This will make an outer coating of slip where all the blemishes from trimming are filled in. Then you give it a minute or two to dry, and burnish again with the rubber rib. The result should be smooth like with porcelain.
Great video Ann!! Love all the different examples you did comparing the two clays. I've been using stoneware clay (b-mix) since I started pottery (throwing) almost 3 years, but just started throwing with porcelain last week, and I'm in love with it!! Just bisqued my first pieces of porcelain and can't wait to glaze. I love carving, so I think porcelain will be my go to from now on.
Oh yes...porcelain is the way to go! Enjoy!
Can you create molds for both types? Just make them more wet liquid enough to fit into the molds?
Can you please tell how you make your stamps???
THANK YOU for this video, Ann! I have really been throwing myself into pottery this last year (heh) and it’s intense how much there is to learn. This is so helpful!
Hi Squeaky. YOu are so right. It is a bit overwhelming at first, but exciting, right. Keep going! Cheers 🙂
Excellent video! Lots of great information!
Hey!!! Thanks so much. I appreciate you watching!!😊
Do you find that cracks can happen more often with porcelain DURING the bisque firing? If so, is it likely still due to not compressing the bottoms enough?
Hi Mary, there are a number of reasons why porcelain cracks...air pockets (lack of good wedging), lack of compression, too much water, drying too fast etc. Porcelain is finicky....its a Diva clay. Wish there was an easy answer...may want to try making your bottoms thicker, compress on BOTH sides of bottom well, and dry S L O W!
Very informational. Thank you for always guiding those of us that are learning.
Aww...I am glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and good luck in the studio.
Would the result be the same if you'd used smooth Stoneware rather than a grogged?
Hi Cariad. My thinking is that each clay has its own personality in regards to color, and raw materials and in what aspects it is finicky to work with. I would suggest figuring out what path you are taking in your own pottery journey as far as how you want to construct, decorate and glaze...then figuring out what clay is the best for the most professional results. . For this video, I wanted to compare more extreme examples (ultra smooth vs. ultra grogged) so that people could see the obvious differences...plus it is what I had on my shelf 🙂
My question was out of curiosity as I am interested in the difference between smooth stoneware and porcelain in handling. I know stoneware can vary between grogged and smooth and as I don’t use porcelain I was genuinely interested in your opinion if your experiment result would be different with a smoother SW. I do live your videos BTw and find them inspiring.
@@cariadwales1979 That is so sweet Cariad. Thanks for watching and I am glad you are enjoying them. Many people do prefer the porcelain like smooth non-grog stoneware to porcelain. I have tried them both and dont remember a lot of difference in a lot of difference for working with them but like I said, I may be alone in that as others say they have a lot more success with the smooth stoneware. The reason I prefer my porcelain is not only the smoothness, the forgiveness for my painting mistakes, but I couldnt find a smooth stoneware with the same bright "cool" white color. The stonewares were on the warm white side which didnt let my underglaze colors pop like I wanted them to. Again, it all depends on what you want to do with the clay as to what choice of clay you choose. Good luck!!!
Thank you so much for all these details
Hi lovely lady, can you please cover the topic on solving craze on pots. My pots are coming out of the kiln with craze crack lines and are making tinkering sounds. This is frustrating me. How can I solve this problem please?
Hi Only, When you get crazing on pots after the glaze firing, that is because the glaze does not "fit" correctly to the clay you are using. What you need to do is either experiment using that glaze on other clay bodies or experiment with tweaking the glaze (usually that would require getting someone with a lot of knowledge about the way the raw materials work together to do the tweaking). I had to do that with one of my glazes. One other thing you could do is experiment with making other glaze recipes (that you might be able to find on Glazy website) that are similar to the one you are using. That all said, some potters actually like glazes that craze and do the pinging, but there is a lot of controversy about whether or not those crazing glazes will effect the functionality of the pottery with food. Good luck.
@@annruel1982 Thank you very much for the clarity, I bought a lot of clay and I don’t think I can change to other clay with the amount of clay I already have in the house, so I might have to take the option of experimenting with different glazes. You see I normally use commercial glazes, I think I might have to make my own glazes from not on because I don’t like seeing the glaze craze on my pots. Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my comment :)
@@theonly6359 I think that is a good idea. Experiment with different glazes to find ones that will not craze. Making your own glazes is also a good idea as you are more flexible to make various combinations and to tweak recipes when needed. It is also a good learning experience. Good luck 🙂
great video although would it have been fairer to use a non grog-stonewhear to give a better comparison. the groged clay started out with a dissavantge from the start. i will say the color comparisons were cool. it was intresting how the porcelain cylinder had more glaze runing.
again thank for a great video.
Actually there is no disadvantage. Both clays have their places depending on what you are using them for. There was no winner or loser. I definitely could have added that third choice of a smoother stoneware to the mix, but I would have had to go down to Orlando to purchase some, haha. Also the more clay added to the comparison, the more complicated and long the video became, so I just narrowed down the choice of clay to the two extreme choices of clays,,,the porcelain and a grogged stoneware. I get a lot of questions about grog, so I thought it would be a good chance to educate people on what that was. Im glad you enjoyed it. thanks for watching
thank for the explanation. it is a great video. i have used both groged stone whaer abd non groged. my clay of choice is laguna B-Mix5 creamy color holds up well but too much water and it get soft in a hury.
thanks again
@@allenfitz1 I have heard a lot of good things about the B-Mix clay. Thanks for the recommendation. I will have to give that a try...see if they sell that in my neck of the woods. Have a great day Allen
So many great informations Anne, thank you! How much grog in % has this stoneware clay you've used? Thank you and greetings from Europe! 🙂
Hi Caroline. I am not really sure. I looked on the Standard (that is the brand of clay it is) website but it is not stated there in percentages. Sorry about that. Cheers to you in Europe!!
Hey there Ann. As always you have given us a very informative video! I have only thrown twice and used stoneware without grog I only use stoneware without grog for my normal every day handbuilding pots. if you were to use stoneware without grog it would act so much more like porcelain. I just wonder if beginners are going to assume that all stoneware has grog in it. Anyway I love all the pieces.
Hi Michele. Thanks for the tips. It was a difficult decision on how to approach this topic. I thought about adding more clay choices to the mix, but it got really confusing so I just stuck with clays on the opposite end of the spectrum. Porcelain and then a groggy stoneware. I probably should have said somewhere in the video that not all stoneware has grog in it, but i get the question a lot ..what is grog...so I thought this would make a nice contrast to the porcelain and be a good way to show people what the differences are. I like the Porcelain-like stonewares too, but the color of the porcelain ...that it is such a bright cool white...really is necessary for how I decorate. You know what I mean
@@annruel1982 Yes I know what you mean. I use a very white stoneware as well as a buff. I would like to try some that is a bit darker with specks but I’m honestly afraid of having glaze issues with new clays when I have invested sooo much in the two glazes I use.
@@micheledickey4066 I hear you on that. It is fun to experiment but it can get expensive too 🙂. I so understand that.
Why not use stoneware WITHOUT grog?
Hi Kathy. You could add that one to the mix. I just thought I would keep it simple by comparing a grogged clay vs. a non grogged clay...and porcelain was what I had on my shelf. :-)
@@annruel1982 👍🏼
Great help. Thanks
Hey Dances!! Thanks for watching!
Great comparison and experimentation. Thanks!
what r types of#ceramic#material!whiteware!difference#porcelain #stoneware & #earthenware #pottery!
th-cam.com/video/cqIQy12DmF0/w-d-xo.html
This was such a thorough video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Are you using acrylic paint for the bees or is it colored glaze?
Hi Quilt Dimensions. Actually it is not an acrylic paint, but it is "underglaze". Regardless that the title has the word "glaze" in it, it is not a glaze. Underglaze has more of a clay base with other raw materials and colorants added to it that when fired on the pottery become permanent to the surface.
@@annruel1982 Thank you so much for that info. I'd like to ask if the underglaze and glaze require two separate kiln process' or can it be just one process. For example after you paint your design and let it dry , then glaze and lastly you can heat. I'm not sure if that's clear. Thank you, Ann.
@@quiltdimensions2046 I think I understand. Underglazes can be applied to clay that is either greenware (clay that has not been fired at all) or to bisqueware (pottery that has been fired to a low temperature to harden it but not waterproof it yet so that it can still absorb glaze). I prefer painting with underglazes when it is in the greenware stage as it is easier to sponge off mistakes. After I underglaze the pottery, I bisque fire it. After it is bisque fired, I glaze it to that higher temperature so it will be waterproof and you can eat and drink from it. I have workshop videos you can watch for a low price if you are interested. I think Jim added them to the description section under the video if you are interested in the whole process.
@@annruel1982 I will definitely look into those classes. Thank you for your time, Ann.
@@quiltdimensions2046 My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
Do you have anything on bone china?
Would using a damp white Mud Tools sponge help keep the groggy clay smoother?
Not sure but I suspect the grog will always rise to the top regardless of the sponge type.
Hi Ann, your video was very informative. My question to you is which is the preferred clay to use when extruding a very thin walled tube? I have tried both earthenware and stoneware and both were not plastic enough to go smoothly through my 3 mm opening in my wall secured 4” extruder. Do you think a porcelain would do a better job? What clay body would you recommend I try?
Hi Rohrshack. That is an interesting question. I dont have an extruder but we used to have an extruder in the studio where I taught. If I remember correctly, my students would use all kinds of clays in the extruder. the trick to being successful with it was getting the clay to the right consistency. If the clay was too stiff, it was hard to push through the extruder plus the clay was not plastic enough and had cracks. If the clay is too watered down, it is too sticky to form into the shape you want. It is the Goldilocks syndrome. REally condition your clay so that it goes through easily and forms the shape you want. For thinner walls, I might experiment with paper clay. the paper makes the clay a bit more durable to withstand the stresses of the shrinkage on thin forms.
@@annruel1982 Thank you so much for your reply. When I last requested help for this issue, several people suggested various clays. Unfortunately, the minimum amount that I could order was 50 pounds. I ended up with 250 pounds of clay, none of which served my purpose. I tried each, both earthenware and stoneware, watered down as much as possible and none of them worked for me. Is there an additive, other than water, that will make clay more plastic so that it will extrude with a 3 mm opening?
@@rOHRshackartpottery Hmmm... I cant think of anything you could add. One more thing you might try is to extrude the clay into a bit thicker walled tube so your clay will run through the extruder.....and then after the clay is extruded, stret out the tube to the thinner wall that you want after maybe by holding it carefully so the clay will hang and stretch vertically. You. may have to cut off the top and bottom thicker sections of the tube, but the center of the tubes should be thinner. Does that make sense?
@@annruel1982 that would be a difficult judgement call that would need careful monitoring. Thank you for the novel idea but it will not be possible although conceivable. I am still toying with thinning the clay down.
@@rOHRshackartpottery Okay. You might have to get creative to get to your solution but dont give up. Good luck!
I am left handed do you have any tips.
I am left handed as well. Not sure what kind of tips you are looking for but our channel has hundreds that apply to both lefties and righties.
HI do you have recipe tips for decorating slip voortrekker porcelain?
We have a couple videos on decorating with slip (not the voortrekker type but porcelain is porcelain when it comes to slip). Check em out!
Where do you get the slab mat?
check out the community section for a link - thanks!
@@LittleStreetPottery Thanks
I live in Brazil and we only have 1 type of clay, the Grey one. All the other ones are hard to find and extremely expensive.
Wow - that is too bad. Maybe you could look into digging up your own??? There are some TH-cam videos on that.
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you
Thanks !
I'm just getting into ceramics and I was curious if you could mix the porcelain and stoneware together?
check out our previous videos as we do combine both - thanks!
@@LittleStreetPottery Cool!
this is so genius
Ms. what liquid cannot crack clay?
Not sure - its the shrinkage that makes clay crack - that's because of the water content in the clay.
Can you make a Cats and Kittens in stoneware with grog? I've only ever seen them in terra cotta.Read read research.
Grog should be fired at cone 05 or 06 .
Does anyone know where to find a mat like that? Did she make it? Is it a pizza mat?
Check description of our recent vids - link in there.
Superb as always. I like the investigative way you tackle your projects. I am a much more slap-happy person in this respect. I have a lot less patience. I want to see results. So my pieces either work or not. You could call it my investigation IS in the making... I tried to work with porcelain a couple of times and found it very frustrating. But I love the qualities of it. I guess, I have to leave that to the great porcelain Makers of this world, such as you are. I even tried to work with a porcelain that has fibres in it, like porcelain paperclay. That seems to be even worse. So, I might turn it into buttons or such. I hope we will continue to see your work on here for a long time.
You are amazing...thanks for sharing your wisdom
Very informative! Thanks
Stoneware looks much better. I am a Beginner. I started with Earthenware which l liked. I tried another clay body, Porcelain mixed with another white clay body. I didn't enjoy the experience. So my next go is Standard Stoneware
Very scientific ❤
Yes ;}
this seems more like a tempered vs non-tempered clay comparison than stoneware vs porcelain
So which one do you like best? I vote for the porcelain!
Yep, Im a porcelain diva!
I can feel the grog when I throw.
Porcelain vs. Stoneware, WHICH IS *BETTER??*
Ha! Indeed!
👍👍👍🤩🤩🤩
I would have preferred to see a comparison between porcelain and stoneware WITHOUT grog! This is really not apples to apples…
Stoneware without grog is pretty similar - so many things to compare - we'll probably do other comparisons in the future.
❤❤
Amazing!
i had to double take, thought it said "Stoner vs Popcorn" 🤦♂️😳🤣👉
We did do a stoner v popcorn video but popcorn won EVERY time 😂