Just made a cardboard castle for my Grandsons. Have never painted or made stuff before but your videos are spectacular and the castle is looking amazing. Thank you so much. So glad I found this site...
This is the first video I've found that doesn't use alcohol which I don't have, thanks so much for this it's made my mini so much better! It's the first one I've done and I wasn't going to use a wash as it seemed to complicated but it's actually so simple, thanks so much!
I'm just starting with getting into crafting, I haven't actually crafted anything yet, I only just went out to buy materials - and here I am, happy inside to be addressed as a "fellow crafter" :D
Using a flow aid is good and but extends the drying time. One problem I had with washes for terrain is that they tend to stain all the surfaces. I found by first misting the terrain with water, I can use less wash and it will flow into the cracks and valleys more easily. A discovery, due to my impatience, is that a wash flows better over a base coat that is still wet. For variety and interest on geometric shaped floor tiles, I use heavily darkened primary and complementary colors as washes.
Super late to the party on this video, but thank you. I just started crafting and your videos have been inspirational, informational, and I giant resource. Just made and used my first batch of wash and I would have had no idea what I was looking for if it wasn't for this video and you. All in all: thanks.
I'm late to the party but just wanted to point out that if your wash ends up leaving white stains, then your water is too hard. Use distilled water instead. Took me a long time to figure that out...
@@seamusbyrne8259 You can easily distill your own water, just boil tap water in a large saucepan, have a lid over the top that's upside down so that the steam condenses on the lid and runs to the middle. Have a small saucepan/tin/jug in the middle to catch the condensed water and that's clean, distilled water.
ooohh my goooddddd 5 years later you wrote this is saving me now !! You have no idea how muchheadaches this beige/white stains have caused me.. I thought I was losing my mind cause did everything right yet the result was as you mentioned. THANK YOU
Wow!! How did I just now discover this channel?!?! Probably because I just started getting to this. I'm 6 mos into 5e and half a dozen figs painted. Really appreciate the tips and tricks. I've watched a ton of these vids back to back. Thanks!!!
Oh, and one of the things I have used in the past for washes, and it seems to work decently, is automotive windshield washer fluid. I have seen people use it to thin acrylic paint in the past to run it through an airbrush. So I tried it and it seems to work pretty decent. The alchohol in it helps to dry the wash quicker. Something I had thought about but never tried was just plain old rubbing alcohol. It has water and alcohol in it. Might work very much the same. And I always add a few drops of dish soap or glycerin to my bottles of acrylic paint then shake them up to stir them in. They work better, paint thinner and smoother, and the bottles last longer.
Thank you so much. It was exactly as you had said. The dungeon tiles were my first ever project, but I was slightly confused about the wash. I look forward to watching the rest of your vids!
Just made my first black wash for my first painted model thanks to this video! Thanks! My Klingon Bird Of Prey is ready to give them the fight they deserve!
Thank you for the great videos. I really like the formats of your videos. They aren't longer or shorter than they need to be, and you don't seem to be worried about always having the same length video. The content dictates your formate. Thank you!
Yea, I don't try to make sure videos are at least so long or shot....I mean it really depends on the project, I don't try to force it. Glad you notice and like that
Hey I'm gonna try this on my Death Watch Armor! I've mixed up black wash in the past but I like how you mixed up brown and the forest green too...makes perfect sense!! Thanks man!!!
I'm in love with the new wash! Much more potent. I'm even using it on other projects like custom jewelry and a painting I made that had a little something missing. I just want to wash everything... Except my dishes.
Like the things you're doing and since your other shown models are pretty advanced, you might want to give this a thought. What you're doing as a wash works, you wouldn't suggest it otherwise. Did it like that for some time myself. What you've got to consider is, that acrylic paint is pigment and a binder to seal it it. watered down like that, you're basically pushing around pigments as the acrylic won't be able to seal it in anymore. So in fact, you could just use pigment for your wash, which I do occasionally. But back to the recipe. The detergent should be free of chemicals that might disturb adhesion of this or further layers like varnish. Dish soap usually is made to have you're hands feel better after cleaning, so there should be some stuff in there that is not really what we want on our models. I turned to use Winsor & Newtons Flow Improver, which is a tiny bit more pricey, but even that bottle of 125ml will last quite a while. I also experimented with adding Isopropyl/Rubbing alcohol instead and quite like it. You just need to make sure it's clear coated before the wash, what I'd suggest anyway to make the paint flow better into depressions. The original advanced magic wash however is using Future Floor Polish, now Pledge, which is an acrylic that will also seal in your lose pigment. That's a nice alternative to acrylice mediums you could add to your wash, if you wanted it to really stick on its own. Some miniature painters even refer to that magic wash as liquid talent, as it makes a simply drybrushed model look so much more advanced. There are other ways I learned to love, but not all of them are compatible to styrofoam. Depends on the solvents, like enamel washes would often incorporate acetone. Oil washes are usually made with white spirits, but I think they'd work as well with methylated spirits or isopropyl and if you wanted to up your game a bit, painting filters with oil paints could be the thing for you, because it allows you to manipulate the paint for a much longer time than you could work on it with dry retarded acrylics.
Thanks for the info. To be honest I don't consider my painting skills good enough to justify that much thought and effort into the washes. However I have been planning on switching over to the Future Floor Polish method as it is just as cheap and easy, I just havn't gotten around to doing it yet. One thing you said did really get my attention though, the idea of clear coating before the wash, since I spray a clear coat on all my piece anyway I'll try doing it before the wash next time to see the difference.
Future should work fine. There's enough model builders out there using it at an advanced level to this day. In the end it is what you are able to do with the tools you have. It's just I found the expanded working time with oil paints very helpful for subtle adjustments, even though I'm often lazy and try doing something similar with my acrylics I have on the table. The thing with the clear coat is, it allows the paint to float much more, because the surface is less rough than it is on a matt finish. A surface is matt, because the paint/varnish has basically a very fine grit, where the wash will tend a bit to cover the entire surface instead of just the depressions. If you want something inbetween, you can go for a satin varnish. There's use for all three options, I think, depending on the result wanted, so it's always good to know this "tool". Have fun with it. Glad if I could help a bit.
Ace show. You once said your going to make a Listof where to get xps anywhere. I'm a newby and cant find xps in Liverpool, Merseyside, in the Northwest of England. Thankyou, always watch. Barry Loughran
Thanks for the great video .One of many .you my good sir have inspired me to take up this fantastic hobby . So much thanks for being the awesome human you are .
Awesome video, thanks! Never built before, am just putting together a Bandai Deathstar II model which, while it's very detailed, needs a bit of grit (I take photos of small-scale figs and vehicles; I can just use a filter, but grittier is better for actual display IMHO). Didn't know about this--you've taught me something new today.
I tried using this on my first project, it ended up bubbling up and removing all my paint in small gunky strips ( the black mod podge was fine). The strips did not pass on colour when touching or liquify when merged with water. I used polyuretane xps insulation finnfoam with mod podge/black acrylic paint. I used amsterdam acrylic paints for all the paints and the wash. I used 1 drop of fairy dish soap for the dish wash. Any idea what ruined it? I kept 5-6h in ~27 C between the layers. The paint was fine but the wash worked more as bad paint remover
@@MagicFinkers i´m figuring you guys probably used ´washable´ paint. Check your tubes. If it says washable or anything alike, the paint is removable with water..
@@delievegoedesint That sounds about right. I used some cheap paint to try it out and see if I was successful. Will check before I dry to do it again! Thank you for the help!
my wash left white residue in the crevices, not black like I wanted. had to repaint quite a few tiles. tips? I already decreased the amount of dish soap, so we'll see how that goes. great videos!
I personally had some problems with pure water washes, I got too many tide marks, the paint was not getting properly in the recesses. Pledge floor wax solved my issue. You can use it pure or in a 50/50 mix. Still cheap. I've also seen good results with flow air (the liquid stuff that maxes water flow better in your dishwasher).
Yea, this water and soap wash is only suitable for big pieces of terrain where some tiding only helps the look. Not great for minis or stuff like that.
I'm glad to see someone else that uses the less expensive, but just as good, craft paints. I cringe inside whenever I see someone spending all that money on those teeny tiny bottles of GW paints.
Yea, I'm really not interested in dropping a few hundred bucks on a paint set...at least not for terrain, that would be insane. If I was painting a lot of minis then sure, but for what I do the $0.75 craft paint does me just fine.
You can but what I do is make up a bottle of "wet water" that I use to make washes. The rise aid is about $5 a bottle and is about a pint. But you can use that to make gallons of washes. To get a proper wash you really need to dilute the pigments. you can over dilute too but for me 15:1 makes a good wash with my paints. I use vallejo paints for minis and walmart craft paint for terrain. I love your channel by the way. I made the tentacles and plan to make the boat soon. Good stuff.
Cool videos, learnt a lot. I live in a country town just south of Winnipeg (St.Malo). while watching your videos, i got this idea of adding a small water pump for fountains or fish tanks into the diorama to make waterfalls more realistic so i can turn it on and also somewhat enjoy the sound of real nature with a nice scenery. The next thing that comes to mind is, is it safe to do such or is there some kind of sealant that i would have to cover the diorama with? Reason for that question is because I'm a total rookie @ this, never even attempted to built a small piece for a diorama. If there's a way I can add a real water feature to a diorama, I then might consider building diorama/gardens.
Young's Double Chocolate stout! I'm totally jealous of you! I can't get it anymore. I used to buy in bottles. But then all I could find was cans. I hate beer out of a can. Now I can't get it at all.
I mean I get that different paints have different coverage but “1 part paint per 3 water” or something like that would not be a bad idea in a guide on how to make something. Many people (me included) is new to this and couldn’t tell too much pigments from not enough just by looking at it.
Hey Jeremy, what could be the reason that my wash basically ruins the piece I apply it too? The acrylic grey that I would have on a stone work piece would start just peeling and smudges the paint off, reactivating the paint. I follow your instructions but the wash is baffling me. Is my wash to wet or something? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. James.
the wash seems to remove the painted layer your applying to ? how do you stop it removing the acrylic paint job below, do you coat you paint job with clear matte before applying a wash ?
so i encountered an issue where i painted everything and had it looking great after dry brushing but when i dipped it in the wash things went wrong quick. all my paint started reacting and bubbling up and all of it could be wiped away down to the mod podge and black paint base coat. Please help
I can't find my answer anywhere online, might be searching for the wrong answer idk. I tried making my first terrain piece with xpf did all the steps you did in your vids, let it dry almost a full day before I used a layer of wash. The wash instantly just rehydrated the paint and smeared it all. I don't know what I did wrong 😕
Love these vids! Is there any way to watch them in order? I tried (and failed) to look up your first vid. Actually about to head out to buy stuff for boats and ship thanks to an older vid of yours. Also thanks for the vid and the printable sheets! DM Scotty has some great stuff, but his flat cardboard boats... well... you know... So yea, mad props to you for everything I've seen so far!
Well the episodes are numbered....there is also a playlist on the channel of full episodes in order. You can also go to any youtube channel and view all of their videos listed by upload date.
this wash seems to make gundam joints loose, is it because i added to much dish soap, will it stop after it drys and it is taking and awful amount of time to dry.
I'm having problems using this wash. As soon as I apply it the paint begins to bubble and lift, and if I brush it at all it just strips the piece back to the mod podge layer. I've made sure the piece is well dry by leaving it overnight before applying the wash. What am I doing wrong?
I'm new to making three d models and I appreciate all the time you take in making how to video but I need to what basic paint should I buy to start out with? "meaning colors
I use cheap acrylic craft paint from michaels (craftsmart, folk art, apple barrel). To start get black, white, ivory/cream, and two shades (dark and light) of grey, brown, and green, and a tan/khaki...that should be enough to start terrain, and you'll learn what you want to add to your arsenal later.
I think so, but be careful as some water effects (like the one I use) won't cure properly if you mix in ink or paint. So if I want a slimy algae infested bit of water I mix in some fine green woodland scenics foliage.
So I know there is an updated version of yours but I followed this one due to not being able to acquire the other items just yet. Used water, dish soap, and paint. Let my base coat and dry brushes dry over night. Washed in the morning and in some place the paint was coming up off the foam and leaving pink underneath. Any tips or recommendations for it not to do that? Maybe my mod podge layer wasn't good enough? But why would the top paint come off to.. I still salvaged my build by adding moss but don't want it to happen again! Help please!
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial ok that's what I thought too. I don't want to admit it but I didn't use the right mod podge and black paint recipe. I didn't have any so I tried the pva glue watered down (I know I know it's not the same I watched your vid!) but I figured I would give it a shot anyways. That has to be the reason! I'll grab some real mod podge tonight! Thanks for the quick reply! Your videos are killer! I don't play d&d (yet) and I'm already building tons...
Not sure, but you could test it out. Another alternative, that will give you better results but cost a tiny bit more is to replace the soap and water entirely and mix your paint right into some dishwasher rinse aid or future floor wax.
Mix weaker if you're scared. You can always add, but taking away is harder. If it's not great, or you don't like how it looks, you can wipe off most of the higher areas, and almost certainly be able to salvage it. Ultimately, you are going to make things you aren't perfectly happy with. That is a part of the process.
In theory, but this cheap style wash is better for adding grime so colours like green and browns. For other colours you could try it but I think you'd need to consider using better paint with better pigments.
They're fine....nothing special really, good price though. I don't like the way they place the numbers on they D4s. Check out www.dicebard.com as an alternative. If you use the promo code "blackmagiccraft" you'll get free expedited shipping anywhere in the world.
*removes terrain from laundry machine* I see I was mistaken about the concept of "washing"
Also, glad to see a new video.
just don't put in the dryer.
*Starts Washing Machine*
*Dumps in a gallon of paint*
Just made a cardboard castle for my Grandsons. Have never painted or made stuff before but your videos are spectacular and the castle is looking amazing. Thank you so much. So glad I found this site...
Dude. 3+ year old video and still kicks ass. I know, you have a newer version. But this saved my beans. Thanks.
This is the first video I've found that doesn't use alcohol which I don't have, thanks so much for this it's made my mini so much better! It's the first one I've done and I wasn't going to use a wash as it seemed to complicated but it's actually so simple, thanks so much!
I'm just starting with getting into crafting, I haven't actually crafted anything yet, I only just went out to buy materials - and here I am, happy inside to be addressed as a "fellow crafter" :D
It seems no one mentioned it. Adding a bit of low grade PVA helps with the bonding and the finished look.
I use that on my stone floors.
Using a flow aid is good and but extends the drying time. One problem I had with washes for terrain is that they tend to stain all the surfaces. I found by first misting the terrain with water, I can use less wash and it will flow into the cracks and valleys more easily. A discovery, due to my impatience, is that a wash flows better over a base coat that is still wet. For variety and interest on geometric shaped floor tiles, I use heavily darkened primary and complementary colors as washes.
Great info.
adding a black wash can also improve prepainted minis.😉
yea, definitely
I don’t know why they don’t just add a dip and shake at the end it would make a huge difference
That intro.
I'm sold.
Super late to the party on this video, but thank you. I just started crafting and your videos have been inspirational, informational, and I giant resource. Just made and used my first batch of wash and I would have had no idea what I was looking for if it wasn't for this video and you. All in all: thanks.
Off topic and way late but that one of my all time favorite Chocolate stouts you have there. Great for breakfast cereal.
I'm late to the party but just wanted to point out that if your wash ends up leaving white stains, then your water is too hard. Use distilled water instead.
Took me a long time to figure that out...
Good info!
Yeah, Ireland's bad but I've a r/o system in my house as distilled water is hard to find in non-professional circles
@@seamusbyrne8259 it is also sold as water for iron..you know, the thing to make your shirt pretty...ask your mom ;-)
@@seamusbyrne8259 You can easily distill your own water, just boil tap water in a large saucepan, have a lid over the top that's upside down so that the steam condenses on the lid and runs to the middle. Have a small saucepan/tin/jug in the middle to catch the condensed water and that's clean, distilled water.
ooohh my goooddddd 5 years later you wrote this is saving me now !!
You have no idea how muchheadaches this beige/white stains have caused me.. I thought I was losing my mind cause did everything right yet the result was as you mentioned. THANK YOU
Wow!! How did I just now discover this channel?!?! Probably because I just started getting to this. I'm 6 mos into 5e and half a dozen figs painted. Really appreciate the tips and tricks. I've watched a ton of these vids back to back. Thanks!!!
Oh, and one of the things I have used in the past for washes, and it seems to work decently, is automotive windshield washer fluid. I have seen people use it to thin acrylic paint in the past to run it through an airbrush. So I tried it and it seems to work pretty decent. The alchohol in it helps to dry the wash quicker. Something I had thought about but never tried was just plain old rubbing alcohol. It has water and alcohol in it. Might work very much the same. And I always add a few drops of dish soap or glycerin to my bottles of acrylic paint then shake them up to stir them in. They work better, paint thinner and smoother, and the bottles last longer.
Thank you so much. It was exactly as you had said. The dungeon tiles were my first ever project, but I was slightly confused about the wash. I look forward to watching the rest of your vids!
glad this helped
Just made my first black wash for my first painted model thanks to this video! Thanks! My Klingon Bird Of Prey is ready to give them the fight they deserve!
Thank you for the great videos. I really like the formats of your videos. They aren't longer or shorter than they need to be, and you don't seem to be worried about always having the same length video. The content dictates your formate. Thank you!
Yea, I don't try to make sure videos are at least so long or shot....I mean it really depends on the project, I don't try to force it. Glad you notice and like that
Used a Wash for the first time to tone down some over zealous dry brushing on my part, it worked:)
Always love your stuff. Been using the old recipe forever, ready to try the new one😁
Like the Double Chocolate bottle back there! GOOD stuff👍😄😄😄
I was wondering why you added the dish soap. Thanks for the explanation. Love your tutorials!
Hey, thanks for these videos! I've binge watched all of them and cant wait to try making my own dungeon pieces soon.
Awesome, good luck!
I didn't know about a drop of dishwashing detergent! Thanks.
This one very helpful as I am currently making a lot of terrain for a Warcry campaign
Hey I'm gonna try this on my Death Watch Armor! I've mixed up black wash in the past but I like how you mixed up brown and the forest green too...makes perfect sense!! Thanks man!!!
I'm in love with the new wash! Much more potent. I'm even using it on other projects like custom jewelry and a painting I made that had a little something missing. I just want to wash everything... Except my dishes.
Like the things you're doing and since your other shown models are pretty advanced, you might want to give this a thought. What you're doing as a wash works, you wouldn't suggest it otherwise. Did it like that for some time myself. What you've got to consider is, that acrylic paint is pigment and a binder to seal it it. watered down like that, you're basically pushing around pigments as the acrylic won't be able to seal it in anymore. So in fact, you could just use pigment for your wash, which I do occasionally. But back to the recipe. The detergent should be free of chemicals that might disturb adhesion of this or further layers like varnish. Dish soap usually is made to have you're hands feel better after cleaning, so there should be some stuff in there that is not really what we want on our models. I turned to use Winsor & Newtons Flow Improver, which is a tiny bit more pricey, but even that bottle of 125ml will last quite a while. I also experimented with adding Isopropyl/Rubbing alcohol instead and quite like it. You just need to make sure it's clear coated before the wash, what I'd suggest anyway to make the paint flow better into depressions.
The original advanced magic wash however is using Future Floor Polish, now Pledge, which is an acrylic that will also seal in your lose pigment. That's a nice alternative to acrylice mediums you could add to your wash, if you wanted it to really stick on its own. Some miniature painters even refer to that magic wash as liquid talent, as it makes a simply drybrushed model look so much more advanced.
There are other ways I learned to love, but not all of them are compatible to styrofoam. Depends on the solvents, like enamel washes would often incorporate acetone. Oil washes are usually made with white spirits, but I think they'd work as well with methylated spirits or isopropyl and if you wanted to up your game a bit, painting filters with oil paints could be the thing for you, because it allows you to manipulate the paint for a much longer time than you could work on it with dry retarded acrylics.
Thanks for the info. To be honest I don't consider my painting skills good enough to justify that much thought and effort into the washes. However I have been planning on switching over to the Future Floor Polish method as it is just as cheap and easy, I just havn't gotten around to doing it yet. One thing you said did really get my attention though, the idea of clear coating before the wash, since I spray a clear coat on all my piece anyway I'll try doing it before the wash next time to see the difference.
Future should work fine. There's enough model builders out there using it at an advanced level to this day. In the end it is what you are able to do with the tools you have. It's just I found the expanded working time with oil paints very helpful for subtle adjustments, even though I'm often lazy and try doing something similar with my acrylics I have on the table.
The thing with the clear coat is, it allows the paint to float much more, because the surface is less rough than it is on a matt finish. A surface is matt, because the paint/varnish has basically a very fine grit, where the wash will tend a bit to cover the entire surface instead of just the depressions. If you want something inbetween, you can go for a satin varnish. There's use for all three options, I think, depending on the result wanted, so it's always good to know this "tool". Have fun with it. Glad if I could help a bit.
Ace show. You once said your going to make a Listof where to get xps anywhere.
I'm a newby and cant find xps in Liverpool, Merseyside, in the Northwest of England.
Thankyou, always watch.
Barry Loughran
This worked amazingly for my new minis! I used miniature paint instead of basic acrylic just in case, but it really adds a lot!
Thank you very much i’m going to paint next week my first miniatuur and this will help
Thanks for the great video .One of many .you my good sir have inspired me to take up this fantastic hobby . So much thanks for being the awesome human you are .
Flow aid at the kitchen sink. Easy, accessible, effective. Great tip. Now I can give my nuln oil a break!
It doesn't get any cheaper.
Awesome video, thanks! Never built before, am just putting together a Bandai Deathstar II model which, while it's very detailed, needs a bit of grit (I take photos of small-scale figs and vehicles; I can just use a filter, but grittier is better for actual display IMHO). Didn't know about this--you've taught me something new today.
I tried using this on my first project, it ended up bubbling up and removing all my paint in small gunky strips ( the black mod podge was fine). The strips did not pass on colour when touching or liquify when merged with water. I used polyuretane xps insulation finnfoam with mod podge/black acrylic paint. I used amsterdam acrylic paints for all the paints and the wash. I used 1 drop of fairy dish soap for the dish wash. Any idea what ruined it? I kept 5-6h in ~27 C between the layers. The paint was fine but the wash worked more as bad paint remover
I'd love to know if you had a solution for this or if anyone else does. I tried this and also had it remove paint instead of acting as a wash.
@@MagicFinkers i´m figuring you guys probably used ´washable´ paint. Check your tubes. If it says washable or anything alike, the paint is removable with water..
@@delievegoedesint That sounds about right. I used some cheap paint to try it out and see if I was successful. Will check before I dry to do it again! Thank you for the help!
@@MagicFinkers Hope it works man! I had the exact same problem!
Loved this video, thanks a bunch!
Thanks for the vid, from a novice crafter!!!!
no problemo
my wash left white residue in the crevices, not black like I wanted. had to repaint quite a few tiles. tips? I already decreased the amount of dish soap, so we'll see how that goes. great videos!
I personally had some problems with pure water washes, I got too many tide marks, the paint was not getting properly in the recesses. Pledge floor wax solved my issue. You can use it pure or in a 50/50 mix. Still cheap. I've also seen good results with flow air (the liquid stuff that maxes water flow better in your dishwasher).
Yea, this water and soap wash is only suitable for big pieces of terrain where some tiding only helps the look. Not great for minis or stuff like that.
Gonna try making this this weekend.
I'm glad to see someone else that uses the less expensive, but just as good, craft paints. I cringe inside whenever I see someone spending all that money on those teeny tiny bottles of GW paints.
Yea, I'm really not interested in dropping a few hundred bucks on a
paint set...at least not for terrain, that would be insane. If I was
painting a lot of minis then sure, but for what I do the $0.75 craft
paint does me just fine.
Cheers dude, I have been doing this with out the dishwashing liquid, using it is much better!!
yup, big difference when you add some sort of flow aid.
lil tip
i use glass cleaner and destiled water and its a fantastic wash !!
but i test the dishsoup trick now thx buddy !!
^^
For flow aid I use jet dry. Works very well
And if using rinse aid instead of soap you can ditch the water entirely.
You can but what I do is make up a bottle of "wet water" that I use to make washes. The rise aid is about $5 a bottle and is about a pint. But you can use that to make gallons of washes. To get a proper wash you really need to dilute the pigments. you can over dilute too but for me 15:1 makes a good wash with my paints. I use vallejo paints for minis and walmart craft paint for terrain.
I love your channel by the way. I made the tentacles and plan to make the boat soon. Good stuff.
Cool videos, learnt a lot. I live in a country town just south of Winnipeg (St.Malo). while watching your videos, i got this idea of adding a small water pump for fountains or fish tanks into the diorama to make waterfalls more realistic so i can turn it on and also somewhat enjoy the sound of real nature with a nice scenery.
The next thing that comes to mind is, is it safe to do such or is there some kind of sealant that i would have to cover the diorama with?
Reason for that question is because I'm a total rookie @ this, never even attempted to built a small piece for a diorama.
If there's a way I can add a real water feature to a diorama, I then might consider building diorama/gardens.
Young's Double Chocolate stout! I'm totally jealous of you! I can't get it anymore. I used to buy in bottles. But then all I could find was cans. I hate beer out of a can. Now I can't get it at all.
I like the beer choice in the background.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks. Noob here doing a very small project, and needed reasurance that I didn't need to buy stuff specially.
Dude you're excellent. Thanks for posting these videos.
I mean I get that different paints have different coverage but “1 part paint per 3 water” or something like that would not be a bad idea in a guide on how to make something. Many people (me included) is new to this and couldn’t tell too much pigments from not enough just by looking at it.
Hey Jeremy, what could be the reason that my wash basically ruins the piece I apply it too? The acrylic grey that I would have on a stone work piece would start just peeling and smudges the paint off, reactivating the paint. I follow your instructions but the wash is baffling me. Is my wash to wet or something? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
James.
Bro can I use dishwashing liquid soap and pilot marker ink??
the wash seems to remove the painted layer your applying to ? how do you stop it removing the acrylic paint job below, do you coat you paint job with clear matte before applying a wash ?
I wonder if that chocolate stout might make a good dark wash! 😁Great vid, using your tips today!
so i encountered an issue where i painted everything and had it looking great after dry brushing but when i dipped it in the wash things went wrong quick. all my paint started reacting and bubbling up and all of it could be wiped away down to the mod podge and black paint base coat. Please help
I can't find my answer anywhere online, might be searching for the wrong answer idk.
I tried making my first terrain piece with xpf did all the steps you did in your vids, let it dry almost a full day before I used a layer of wash. The wash instantly just rehydrated the paint and smeared it all. I don't know what I did wrong 😕
Needed this for a piece I'm doing thanks man
Just got into this hobby. I died laughing at the intro because that was LITTERALLY what I was thinking when I searched for this!
This is how I make my wash only I didn't add soap. I may try that! Cool!
Nice video. Thanks for sharing!
rt on fellow canuck, i always wondered how to make that stuff. you just saved me a ton of dough lol
awesome
Love these vids! Is there any way to watch them in order? I tried (and failed) to look up your first vid. Actually about to head out to buy stuff for boats and ship thanks to an older vid of yours. Also thanks for the vid and the printable sheets! DM Scotty has some great stuff, but his flat cardboard boats... well... you know... So yea, mad props to you for everything I've seen so far!
Well the episodes are numbered....there is also a playlist on the channel of full episodes in order. You can also go to any youtube channel and view all of their videos listed by upload date.
this wash seems to make gundam joints loose, is it because i added to much dish soap, will it stop after it drys and it is taking and awful amount of time to dry.
Could you swap black with another color?
I'm having problems using this wash. As soon as I apply it the paint begins to bubble and lift, and if I brush it at all it just strips the piece back to the mod podge layer. I've made sure the piece is well dry by leaving it overnight before applying the wash. What am I doing wrong?
I'm new to making three d models and I appreciate all the time you take in making how to video but I need to what basic paint should I buy to start out with? "meaning colors
I use cheap acrylic craft paint from michaels (craftsmart, folk art, apple barrel). To start get black, white, ivory/cream, and two shades (dark and light) of grey, brown, and green, and a tan/khaki...that should be enough to start terrain, and you'll learn what you want to add to your arsenal later.
What is the best paint to use for this?
Thanks. Can't wait to give this a shot.
Very good Mate.
Great i will use this method to get some sort of sepia and black-ish like this one
you present really good information. Thank you
Your wash has to be... like you said the easiest wash to make. Awesome job man, thanks for another great vid.
yup, can't get any easier, thats for sure
Black Magic Craft can the same be done, if you want to do a brown wash??
yep!
martin the worrior thanks 👍🏻
thank you man! I really appreciate your job!
Is it supposed to be bubbly?
thanks a lot for this video! it helped me a lot painting a face mask :))
Is it normal for the black wash to separate? I made it hours ago and came back to the paint at the bottom and light gray water.
yea
Fantastic! Thanks for making this one. Very helpful.
May it serve you well.
Do you have a video for applying black washes to miniatures as well? Thank you!
My expertise lies in terrain, not mini painting...still learning that art myself so I leave mini painting tutorials up to guys like doctor Faust.
Thank you! :)
Would the method used to make the cave water effects be the most effective way to make swamp tiles or is there a better method?
I think so, but be careful as some water effects (like the one I use) won't cure properly if you mix in ink or paint. So if I want a slimy algae infested bit of water I mix in some fine green woodland scenics foliage.
it is better to make the wash a little light, as you can always give it a second wash to darken if it is too light
yup, and you get used to knowing what you want when mixing
do you also make stout
So I know there is an updated version of yours but I followed this one due to not being able to acquire the other items just yet.
Used water, dish soap, and paint. Let my base coat and dry brushes dry over night. Washed in the morning and in some place the paint was coming up off the foam and leaving pink underneath.
Any tips or recommendations for it not to do that?
Maybe my mod podge layer wasn't good enough?
But why would the top paint come off to..
I still salvaged my build by adding moss but don't want it to happen again!
Help please!
Your mod podge failed to bond for some reason. Did you use foam that came with a plastic film on it and leave it on?
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial ok that's what I thought too.
I don't want to admit it but I didn't use the right mod podge and black paint recipe. I didn't have any so I tried the pva glue watered down (I know I know it's not the same I watched your vid!) but I figured I would give it a shot anyways.
That has to be the reason!
I'll grab some real mod podge tonight!
Thanks for the quick reply!
Your videos are killer!
I don't play d&d (yet) and I'm already building tons...
Pva is water soluble which makes it vulnerable to washes. People love to say mod podge is the same as pva, but as you can see, it is not 😕
Very useful video, does this method work with any colour? I’d like to make a red wash. :-)
Great video thanks
Mega useful as ever thank you!
Will this work for rust stains? Like a “red” wash?
Yes.
That was the first thing I thought of and used red, blue and gold and shit is amazing.
That beer looks good!
Is there any reason to use matte medium over water or the flow aid?
Not sure, but you could test it out. Another alternative, that will give you better results but cost a tiny bit more is to replace the soap and water entirely and mix your paint right into some dishwasher rinse aid or future floor wax.
What about colored washes? I don’t know much about skin-tones etc. anybody got a video link to help me out?
I really wish you could come up with a measurable formula. I’m scared to put a unknown homemade formula on my pieces I’ve worked so hard on
The secret to washes is getting over that fear, not the ratios ;)
Mix weaker if you're scared. You can always add, but taking away is harder. If it's not great, or you don't like how it looks, you can wipe off most of the higher areas, and almost certainly be able to salvage it. Ultimately, you are going to make things you aren't perfectly happy with. That is a part of the process.
Does the same technique apply for color washes?
In theory, but this cheap style wash is better for adding grime so colours like green and browns. For other colours you could try it but I think you'd need to consider using better paint with better pigments.
Nice bag of holding! How do you like Wizdice dice? I just ordered their second bag. (bag of devouring)
They're fine....nothing special really, good price though. I don't like the way they place the numbers on they D4s. Check out www.dicebard.com as an alternative. If you use the promo code "blackmagiccraft" you'll get free expedited shipping anywhere in the world.
can you use brown paint and make it a brown wash?
Yes
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Thanks Bro
Easy. I dont know why I haven't made my own yet.
Really useful! Thanks
Thx, just what i needed right now
Can I use this wash on the minis I paint?
It’s not really good enough quality for minis. I have a video more recently with a recipe that is better quality.
Thanks this video helped make my f100 alot better
Asked and answered. Exactly what I was looking for. Cheers! Consider me subscribed!
Check the updated wash recipe video for a much better, but more involved, version.
Awsooom 👍👍👍👍