Mate i Just Made One like you Show and its Works a Treat and Cost me Nothing You Need a Modelers medal if they did one for Such a Simple Working Uncoupler as most wont take apart two Trucks with all the Hornby Hooks still there Thank You SO Much Awesome Idea
I had a go at making one of these today as a test, on platform 5. I used the plastic that items from Scale model scenery come in. Not as rigid as the plastic you used. I glued it to the track, and then had to reposition it. Tested it later using a Vitrains 47, a Bachmann 47, and a Lima 47. It needs a little adjustment I feel for the Lima 47, but with the other two it worked very well, although I'll have to learn where to stop the locomotive! But, first time, it worked very well! In my May 2023 update, I'll be making one of these off camera, and then showing it on the track, so I'll provide a link into this video in the top right hand screen, so people can see it being done properly, and not like me!
Have used this style of uncoupler for years, works really well. Also works with the continental style hook and loop couplings. Also have one glued in place at one end of an old style peco loco lift. Makes uncoupling of vehicles a dream.
Just what I needed. I will have to try that out. Thank you very much. I have a suggestion to one small promblem you have. I noticed that it wasn't easy to drill the holes in the plastic strip and holding it in it's place at the same time. You need a third hand 😉 You can get some small electrical drills, som e of them on batteries. One of these will make the work so much easier for you. You can use track skrews instesd of track pins, which will make it even more easier to remoove them. Regards and have a merry Christmas, Steen, Denmark.
You could probably motorize those using a servo under the track pushing a pin stuck to the underside of the strip and instead of pinning both ends rigidly pin one end and create a slot in the other to allow it to slide unde a pin at the other end. In that way they would not be raised continuously and only work when you want them to.
Yes you can. I 3d print something a bit longer with a side to side through hole on the ends so it is retained in position by a yard broom bristle that fits between the rail and the sleeper webbing. Servo underneath in the middle to push the uncoupler up when needed. Servo driven by an arduino.
Mate i Just Made One like you Show and its Works a Treat and Cost me Nothing You Need a Modelers medal if they did one for Such a Simple Working Uncoupler as most wont take apart two Trucks with all the Hornby Hooks still there Thank You SO Much Awesome Idea
Hi, Glad it worked for you. Steve
That works for me, so simple but very effective, Many thanks, Cheers David
@@davidlewis8353 Glad it helped David. Cheers Steve
Cracking idea! Will steal that.
@@dj_efk No problem. Hope it works for you. Steve
That’s an excellent idea which
I will give a go.
Cheers Kev
I had a go at making one of these today as a test, on platform 5. I used the plastic that items from Scale model scenery come in. Not as rigid as the plastic you used. I glued it to the track, and then had to reposition it. Tested it later using a Vitrains 47, a Bachmann 47, and a Lima 47. It needs a little adjustment I feel for the Lima 47, but with the other two it worked very well, although I'll have to learn where to stop the locomotive! But, first time, it worked very well! In my May 2023 update, I'll be making one of these off camera, and then showing it on the track, so I'll provide a link into this video in the top right hand screen, so people can see it being done properly, and not like me!
Brilliant. It does take a little adjustment/realignment to get spot on. 😀
Have used this style of uncoupler for years, works really well. Also works with the continental style hook and loop couplings. Also have one glued in place at one end of an old style peco loco lift. Makes uncoupling of vehicles a dream.
That’s a great idea if using Peco loco lifts. 😀
Just what I needed. I will have to try that out. Thank you very much. I have a suggestion to one small promblem you have. I noticed that it wasn't easy to drill the holes in the plastic strip and holding it in it's place at the same time. You need a third hand 😉 You can get some small electrical drills, som e of them on batteries. One of these will make the work so much easier for you. You can use track skrews instesd of track pins, which will make it even more easier to remoove them. Regards and have a merry Christmas, Steen, Denmark.
Thanks Steen. I’ll have a look out for a small electric drill. It would be useful for all sorts of things. 😀
I'm going to have to try this myself, as it would be useful in the depot as well as the station!
Good luck. Hope it works for you. 😀
What a great idea Steve, and it seems to work well.
It does and it was simple and cheap to do. I would say it works 90% of the time. Had to play about with the height a bit.😀
Interesting take on an old conundrum, well done Steve, ATB, Andy.
Cheers Andy. 😀
I've used this method for years & I tend to use the clear plastic packaging found on PECO points & other model products rather than buy sheeting.
Good idea using packaging. I’ve never bought any sheets. Packaging is great for all sorts of scratch built things. 😀
Also just stumbled across your Chanel and subbed .so a bit of catching up to do.
Cheers Kev
Thank you. Hope you enjoy. 😁
You could probably motorize those using a servo under the track pushing a pin stuck to the underside of the strip and instead of pinning both ends rigidly pin one end and create a slot in the other to allow it to slide unde a pin at the other end. In that way they would not be raised continuously and only work when you want them to.
Great idea. Might try that somewhere else on the layout. 😀
Yes you can. I 3d print something a bit longer with a side to side through hole on the ends so it is retained in position by a yard broom bristle that fits between the rail and the sleeper webbing. Servo underneath in the middle to push the uncoupler up when needed. Servo driven by an arduino.
What thickness of plastic did you use?
Hi John, it’s .25 of a mm. Common on many sorts of packaging.
A great cheap idea and anyone can make it... and it works.
Not useful for every type of coupler?
Absolutely. As I mention it’s for tension lock couplings only. I might try Kadees at s9me point.