More of the cat & mouse at the end of the video. Keep watching! Macnaught Battery Operated oil pump products: www.macnaughtusa.com/product-category/fluid-handling/bophv/ use code TTWT for a 10% discount Turf Rail installation/details here: th-cam.com/video/o_dd-zaRUSo/w-d-xo.html
Have been a mechanic for a few years. On the hose sticking the best thing I have found is to use a 90 degree pick , by sticking it on the inner diameter of the hose and sliding it all the way around the pipe or housing its attached to will usually free it up.
Hey Tim, just a little cheat to avoid removing the hose clamps and lower rubber tube. I don't know if you can do this with your "custom" made tube with the temperature fitting. The pin for the left lift arm, just behind that and left of the PTO there is a single bolt 11:53 (top of the screen). Remove that instead of the hose clamps. It's just above where you placed the hose clamps once you moved them up the tube, 13:57. Once that bolt is removed, you then use the 6mm allen wrench to remove the bottom. You then pull left as usual, then separate the 90* elbow from the magnet portion. Then pull magnet portion out. With this tip, removing that one bolt, you eliminate wrestling with the hose clamps and trying to push the rubber hose up to remove it from the 90* elbow. It all stays attached and you only separate the tube with the magnet from the 90* elbow. This is a little trick a JD mechanic showed me. They do enough that they know little short cuts like this.
I'd seen this done before in another video. My only concern was getting the screen aligned as described in the service manual. Was it easy to get the screen inserted and aligned correctly? Thanks. I'll be helping a friend change his this weekend and I'll give it a try.
@@CC-te5zf Yes, it has a shelf type thing it lays on, no place for it to go other than where it needs to be. Just before being all the way in though, insert the magnet tube into the elbow, the o-ring will hold it together as one, then put the rest of the way in and tighten the 6mm nut. Then put the bolt back in next to the PTO shaft. Much easier than dealing with hose clamps and hose.
Great video and encouragement for viewers Tim. I think it would also be helpful to see maintenance videos for Johnny 2 when the intervals come up. More and more of us, myself included, are owners of the 2r tractors and would benefit from your quality of videos like this one. Showing everything on the lift and explaining in layman's terms makes a big difference compared to reading the manual or forums.
I did the 50 hour change on my 1025R, cause that is what the book said to do. I thought it was a pain but watching this video you made it look very doable. I'll be ready for the next 200 hours change. Thanks for taking the time to show and explain all parts of this oil change.
very easy service even though I have been doing this kind of service since 2004 with a 2210 bought new and now with a 2017 1025r bought new that I still have I still go back to ur videos for a refresher. Thank u
i don't know if you're updating with new videos or if you even check these messages. But in any case, thanks for your awesome videos. Very informative and clearly explained. I'm a new owner of a 1025 and have started to watch to make sure my money isn't wasted on me being stupid. Well done. God bless.
I did this myself. Can't even begin to tell you how much I appreciate this video, Tim. I priced labor only for this procedure today from a JD dealership at $312.00. The advice you give about using Knipex pliers is on-target. The salad tong type filter wrench you recommend is best for the filter. I've had mine for many years and love it. Love you, brother.
Good morning Tim & Christy. While I did see your other fluid videos, I do like this one for my library. I will be reviewing it 10 times before I change my fluids. Thanks for sharing
Tim, thanks for all the valuable information that you have given me over the last couple of years. I have a 2022 1025R and I just did my 200 hour. The oil change was a piece of cake, greazing was kind of difficult at the hidden zurt, and the hydraulic oil went great until I found the plug washer on the bottom of the oil pan after I had already put new oil in. Luckily, it won't be too hard to drain and re-use the oil. Thanks again for all your help.
Hi Tim, While watching your video, at around 11:45, I noticed the mouse on your pallet rack along with your cat trying to catch it! When I change any kind of oil, I put my hand in a small plastic bag, and then remove the drain plug. keeps my hand clean and I have found that I'm less likely to drop it in the oil pan.
Tim, you must be a magician, you made sliding those xxxx spring clamps up so easy on rear axle, when I finally got mine off I went outside of my garage and threw them as far as I could and returned with worm gear clamps that’ll save me 45 minutes next 200 hour service. The fuel filter under the seat was a piece of cake in comparison. Thanks For The Great Videos God Bless
I wonder if it would be best to just replace those hydraulic hose clamps with regular screw type hose clamps. Those would be much easier to loosen up.....lol....and that's why you don't comment until the end of the video! Thanks for redoing this, I'm about to do this for the second time. It will be interesting to see how the shavings look the second time.
Use the spring clamps. They provide constant tension on the entire circumference of the tube. Worm gear clamps create a pressure point under the screw.
Tim, if you spray brake cleaner on the hose , the spring clamp will slide over the hose easier. It will not hurt the hose and will evaporate off the hose. It gives you just enough time to slide the clamp on. I own my own auto shop and have been using this trick for years. Spring clamps work better that worm drive clamps because the don't loosen up.
Just saw this video now, and I found it very interesting! I have a 3039R that I just got this past summer and am looking to do more projects on it myself. If you ever want to do a roadshow, you're welcome to come to my place in northern Wisconsin and do an episode. Thanks for all of the great videos!!
I bought that oil collection pan after the original Johnny's essential oils video series. I want to thank you for bringing this pan to my attention. It has been fantastic.
Just did my first hydraulic fluid change at 160 hours. Must say I'd been preparing for the moment by watching you and the guy on Tale of Three Cabins, both excellent tutors. So, everything went easier than planned, and from start to finish was about three hours, working at my usual snail's pace. I have one very important recommendation for those of us who can't afford a steel tractor lift: Rhino Ramps. I bought four of these on Amazon for less than $200. They held my 1025r easily and made the job almost a pleasure as far as accessing the filter, plug and screen. Next I'm going to see if they hold my pick-up truck so I can do my oil change there. I'm 79, so I think there are no excuses for not doing the hdf change yourself if you're healthy. Stay safe and keep those videos coming.
Thanks again Tim. I've never done this and was a little hesitant. I asked the dealer if they could come to my home to do it, as I don't have a trailer. They told me $450.00 ball park. I guess that's fair for having to come to my house but it's still a bit high for me, especially when it will have to be done again and again. I'll get the fluid (and another filter wrench) and give it a shot. My biggest fear is stripping the 6mm allen (hex) bolt). Thank you.
I have adopted the same processes of sliding a magnet in to get any extra filings out, well worth doing. My first fluid change at 50 hours I encountered a large amount of white gasket caulking. And lots of filings.
Hey Tim, I have recently (last year) done the 200hr service (really at 400hrs, dealer did the first one) and worked from yourold video. Did not remove wheel. I faced the hose removal challenge. Wasn't too bad. FIlter was a PIA. Had to wrap a few layers of Duct tape around it to get my wrench to work. LOL! Great videos. thanks for sharing!
Hi TTWT! I bought a used 1025R with 150hrs a few yrs back ... when I hit 200hrs, I watched your old video and did the maintenance all on my own. I will agree with you 100%, it is NOT a difficult job to do.
Thanks for the great updated video, I'm going to perform my second Trans fluid change today. I remember my first fluid change 4 years ago so this one should be easier. Im gonna try it without removing the tire also. Thanks, john
Just did service to my tractor at 223 hours. Looks like dealer just replaced fluid and did not clean screen at 50. My case had alot of white sealant in the bottom. You state its not a problem but I will take it to my dealer next week and see what he says. Excellent video.
Using the hoist to lift the tractor sure enhanced the view for you to demonstrate the 200 hour service, great job! Very good idea to do the service earlier. Your right that 1st filter wrench is junk. I was really surprised with the amount of shavings. There are always some trouble spots that engineers don't design for mechanics in mind. GREAT VIDEO, VERYWELL DEMONSTRATED!
Two things I highly recommend 1) prior to doing this kind of service do yourself and your tractor a favour and spray it down all over the drive line with a cleaner de-greaser and wash off. There is nothing that can be harmed in doing this it will only make the service go smoothly and long term over all benefit the tractor. 2) Get a paint marker and mark the new oil filter with the operating hours shown on the hour meter, this makes it very easy to keep track of when to do oil services.
Great video as always! FYI, my John Deere dealer carries filter wrenches. I have cap style (my favorite) from them for the engine oil filter and hydraulic oil filter.
Nice metering pump for the oil bucket. Also the waste oil collection sounds interesting as well. I’m guessing we’ll see more about that later. Blessings.
It is not just Deere filters that are tight and painted on. I happen to own a Kioti ck2610hst and they have a reputation for being miserable for removing the Hydraulic oil filter. My oil filter and HST filter were not bad, Hydraulic oil filter did dent and caused a few ( Jeepers, and gosh words to be uttered). Nice video guys. Take care.
Tim, I have had one for years. I bought mine at Napa . Gearwrench 1/2 drive Nylon Strap Oil filter wrench. I haven't found very many applications that this wrench didn't work.
Hey Tim, they have spring clamp pliers that make those easy to remove. Then use a screw clamp to go back together so you don't have to fight them anymore. Just don't over torque the clamp when going back together.
Well done Tim and Christy. I added the John Deere red die to the fluid so I can see the fluid on the dipstick. This die helps me make my fluid level check easier with my aging eyes. I’m now that guy at a restaurant who pulls out their phone to turn the light on so I can read the menu, and again at the end of the meal so I can see the receipt to add a tip. Just part of getting older.
Small zip ties work well to hold those type of clamps open, on the oil line to the magnetic strainer. You can use two hands to more easily move the clamp.
Hi Tim. On another TH-cam video watch a tail three cabins he has a 1025R2 and when doing this oil change he shows how you don’t have to mess with those clamps you just loosen bolts up above and it gives you enough room to pull it out
I was wondering about that also. Especially since that pipe was just swapped with the new one with the oil temperature sensor. With that bracket screw removed there is plenty of play in there to get at that hose and clamps. That pipe is attached with a rubber hose at the top as well so no worriee about flexing it.
Hey Tim my go to filter wrench are sockets they come in 4 sizes and is easy to use whether you use an Cresent wrench or a 3/8 ratchet. You first find the right size tap it on with a hammer then loosen it with any option of tool . I bought mine from Harbor Freight about 15 years ago.
Hi Tim When you were talking about replacing the hose clamp with a worm clamp it's interesting to understand the purpose of the continuous pressure clamps. When a worm clap is tightened and the hose ages many times there will be leaks. as the hose hardens. Squeeze clamps apply steady even pressure. You will see this around transmission cooler hoses on automobiles. Worm clamps are easier but defiantly not near as good. If they were as good don't you think assembly lines would use them as they are much cheaper.
But I would expect they take considerably longer to screw tighten (install) and probably would have to be factory torqued. Everything I have read for years instructs me to not re-use those "spring" clamps. I stand to be corrected with verifiable authoritative affirmation though. I would really like to know...
To your point about tightness. I ride a motorcycle and when I do brake jobs or any kind of maintenance, I tighten to the torque specs. When I did some work on my tractor the other day, I noticed JD had massively overtightened bolts. They actually damaged a couple washers they overtightened so much. I bought the tech manual from JD and they have a very nice torque spec table, but it doesn't seem like they follow it at all.
I never reinstall the spring clamps. I replace them with aircraft grade T-bolt clamps. Much easier to take on and off in the future. And they can’t pop off the pliers and end up lost in the garage. And, you can spray things off with brake cleaner to get the area around them. And, it is a a good way to clean of the screen filter.
Just did this fluid change at 57 hours on my 2025R, and wish I’d had watched your video prior to my project! The owners manual doesn’t seem to do a good job showing all the lubrications points, either grease zirks or superlube spray points. It would be great if you could do a video showing all these points if you haven’t done one already. I know the 2025R has the “hidden” flywheel zirk, and I counted four total zirks on the machine itself and I’m not sure if there’s more. Thanks.
12” knipex channel locks will take the filter right off. It looks like it won’t fit, but I got it in there with the PTO shaft still attached. Tim is right Knipex pliers are legit.
Saw your mouser at work in the back ground. Sorry I forgot to check the time stamp, but it was in the first third of the video. BTW thanks for the class.
Those strap filter wrenches work and work well as long as you don't get the cheap rubber straps. There is a strap wrench that had cords in it similar to a serpentine belt that does not really stretch and it works very well
Thanks….as always…. Tim and Christy. After watching one of your first hydraulic changes I tried it. Yes, the clamp / hose combo will make a newbie like me have to take a couple of deep breaths. I finally got a pair of needle nose vise grips and locked them on the clamp. That way I was able to work the pry movement better. It worked like a dream. Thanks again for all you guys do. Never stop with the verses at the end. Tony
Great video. Love how you put a hole in the paint tray to catch the oil and have it go where you want, thank you. I would have never thought of that and so useful for other things.
Your comment about the oil pump being high end is an understatement. A battery powered pump and flow meter is around $750. I can't see many DIY folks going that route instead of a funnel. :-)
They do make the cups for the oil filter. I like all your videos, you give a lot of useful information. I have a 2019 model with about 130 hours. I’m dreading having to do this. I had a 2014 model and it had the 50 hour service. I think since it was a new model til they worked the clearances just right they had everyone do the 50 hour service. My 2014 model I used brake cleaner to clean that screen and then I used the new oil to relube the screen.
As someone who basically baths in hydraulic oil - don't dread it. The worst part is the very first time because as Tim noted - the suction tube elbows and clamps are painted on which adds thickness and makes it a pain - the first time. Each remaining time it's a pretty easy job and takes (on the driveway, no lift) about 30-45 minutes. A few notes: Before you drain the fluid, if you have a MMM, remove it, take off the 3 point and lower the three point (this makes more room near the hydraulic filter under the tractor with the mower linkage down). I use the 3 claw Gearwrench Oil filter wrench - uses a 3/8 drive ratchet to manipulate - works great.
Great video. Just wondering.? Is this the fluid that operates the hydraulic cylinders. ? If so, then should the cylinders be retracted to get all the fluid out. ?
A few more questions for the experts... How much pressure does the hydraulic filter handle on the 1025R? It is a very thick wall, heavy duty filter. Does it handle 2000+ psi? My 1025R also had large amounts of metal on the pump intake screen. There was so much, I think it was restricting the flow. My machine now has well over 700 hours so the oil has been changed multiple times. What is causing the metal in the hydraulic oil? Is it from pump wear? My oil also smelt a bit burnt. I have been using the backhoe a lot and getting the oil very hot. Does the 1025R have a hydrating oil temperature sensor? Is there an hydraulic oil overheat light on the dash? Tim, your videos are extremely helpful. In this case I was able to get all of the tools I needed and walk to the rear barn to change the oil, instead of walking back and forth over and over getting the tools I needed...
I suspect you are indeed overheating the oil. Look into the upgraded oil cooler from hydrosplus.com use code ttwt. I have oil temp gauges on mine, but they are not available retail. TractorUniverse.com has an article on what is needed and how to do it.
Remember Tim, Brake Cleaner is your friend. The added torque on the filter and the hex bolt usually come from paint the first time you disassemble them.
Nice explanation on how to do this even though I don't need it because I don't have a 1025r (or any Deere tractor for that matter😁} And I will confess that you had me, for a while, with the cat and mouse in the background! I was all ready to ask in the comments if anyone else saw that or if Bullseye caught the mouse! I am glad to report, however, that I did figure it out BEFORE the end of the video. 🤣🤣👨🚒
Going video Tim, I'm just coming up to 50hr on the 2025r and like normal your information is very helpful. Keep the good stuff coming. Have a great day and thanks
Excellent Video. I have a 2003 John Deere 2210 I'm assuming that the process is very much the same. Oh course I don't have a Lift, So I will be doing all of this under the Tractor on the Ground. I'm wondering if maybe replacing those two Spring Clamps with two spiral hose clamps might make the process of putting the hoses back on and tightening a lot easier. Of course carefully so as not to overdue the tightening. Any thoughts?
from the farm i worked for that low vis or high vis hyd oil it has to do with temp and thickness of the oil at one point i somewhat had idea of it but have forgot it from being away from it for so long now
Thanks Tim for the info on the 200 hrs service. I did do it and was glad I did!!! What a do yo think of the Bobcat Tractors ??? The 1025r as good??? What do you think about me moving up the hydraulic pressure on my 1025r ??? What is your opinion… Thanks a nd have a blessed day
I know most don't, but might want to torque the filter screw and oil drain plug to the correct values, hate to strip out either of those when they go into a block of aluminum. I am sure your arm is calibrated, but galling out the threads would make an easy change an expensive one if you had to purchase a new trans-axle housing or send it to a machine shop to have things re-threaded. Just a bit of armchair advice, from someone who has done it before in an aluminum block! 😁👍
Thanks as always for your helpful videos. One tip that you might like, there is actually a really cool tool for removing those hose clamps. Astro Pneumatic 9409A Pliers (available on Amazon and other places). These allow you to open the clamp and lock it in the full open position so you can use both hands to slide it along the pipe. They are also great for all those tight spots where you can't get the Knipex on a clamp! Another thing that will help with removing those tight filters, grip them at the base, right where the filter attaches to the housing. The filter body is stronger there and more of your torque will go to loosening the filter. If you grip it in the middle, the can tends to crush and twist.
Hey Tim, great videos! Love the info on the 1025R…the only issue with this video is that very few of us will have that really nice lift. Have you done this from the floor before and if so, how much harder do these steps become? Thanks!!
I did. I think I removed that video because this one is better. It isn’t that difficult. Raising just makes things easier to reach. I drove it up on blocks.
Oh Tim, you may not have warmed the oil enough to help it drain. You did mention air pressure and I may have missed it in the video. You don't want the oil too hot as it can burn. I test the block temperature with my hand while it’s warming up. I would throw away those hose clamps use the worm gear type as they are so much easier to use. A very good production and a bit more light would help see whats happening.
tim, what size knipex pliers do you have?..was on your amazon store page and had varous size lengths...want to get the right size to use on my 1025R.....thank you in advance....
When I did this service on my 2018 1025R, I tried to reuse the O rings on the elbow (or 90 if you prefer) that the 6mm Allan bolt secures. The outer O ring that is compressed when the bolt is tightened had become oval or squished after being compressed for a lengthy period of time, and of course leaked... which means fighting with the hose clamps again after declaring victory originally. This is just a long winded way of saying if your machine is older, check the O rings if you don’t want to pay for hose clamp anger management therapy.
Also, seems like you would benefit from adding a waste oil heater in your shop since you probably have a lot of waste oil from your machines and vehicles. I've been watching a lot of youtube on DIY versions, but there are commercial versions as well.
18" Channelocks are the ultimate universal oil/fuel filter wrench. They easily remove 95% plus filters on any flavor equipment. You can use them for spring clamps and to twist hoses to release them as well. Great for pulling stubborn pins and rotating top links/turnbuckles or getting a pto shaft to line up the splines. Keep a set on the tractor and you will be going to them constantly. Well worth the investment, and handy for many jobs.
I have a couple sets of the Knipex, they're great, especially the Swedish pattern ones and they can put a lot of torque on frontend parts/pipe/rounded heads, but they don't fit the big stuff. The big Channelocks (model 480, 20 1/4" rated) might be a tad less refined, but they open up to almost 6" for filters, and have the leverage of the 18" + handles. They'll squash a filter flat if it's been overtightened (all too common, as you pointed out), but I never had even one oil filter I couldn't get off in over 30 years swinging wrenches, excepting the very rare case when they can't get into a very tight place.
Can you do a video about the turf rail, I have an asymmetrical rotary lift and been looking for something exactly like it, but doubt my cab New Holland PowerStar 75 could be lifted but my UTV and ATV definitely would make repairs much easier
More of the cat & mouse at the end of the video. Keep watching!
Macnaught Battery Operated oil pump products: www.macnaughtusa.com/product-category/fluid-handling/bophv/ use code TTWT for a 10% discount
Turf Rail installation/details here: th-cam.com/video/o_dd-zaRUSo/w-d-xo.html
Caught a ton n jerry in real life. Don’t know if Tom whacked jerry with a frying pan 🍳
Not real life. Please watch the end of the video.
Have been a mechanic for a few years. On the hose sticking the best thing I have found is to use a 90 degree pick , by sticking it on the inner diameter of the hose and sliding it all the way around the pipe or housing its attached to will usually free it up.
If is reachable, I use a thin flat screw driver between hose and tubing .
Hey Tim, just a little cheat to avoid removing the hose clamps and lower rubber tube. I don't know if you can do this with your "custom" made tube with the temperature fitting. The pin for the left lift arm, just behind that and left of the PTO there is a single bolt 11:53 (top of the screen). Remove that instead of the hose clamps. It's just above where you placed the hose clamps once you moved them up the tube, 13:57. Once that bolt is removed, you then use the 6mm allen wrench to remove the bottom. You then pull left as usual, then separate the 90* elbow from the magnet portion. Then pull magnet portion out.
With this tip, removing that one bolt, you eliminate wrestling with the hose clamps and trying to push the rubber hose up to remove it from the 90* elbow. It all stays attached and you only separate the tube with the magnet from the 90* elbow. This is a little trick a JD mechanic showed me. They do enough that they know little short cuts like this.
I'd seen this done before in another video. My only concern was getting the screen aligned as described in the service manual. Was it easy to get the screen inserted and aligned correctly? Thanks. I'll be helping a friend change his this weekend and I'll give it a try.
@@CC-te5zf Yes, it has a shelf type thing it lays on, no place for it to go other than where it needs to be. Just before being all the way in though, insert the magnet tube into the elbow, the o-ring will hold it together as one, then put the rest of the way in and tighten the 6mm nut. Then put the bolt back in next to the PTO shaft. Much easier than dealing with hose clamps and hose.
@@joebarrett9830 Thanks!
Your code has saved me a lot of shipping at Green parts store, thank you. I still have a bad case of turf rail envy.
Great video and encouragement for viewers Tim. I think it would also be helpful to see maintenance videos for Johnny 2 when the intervals come up. More and more of us, myself included, are owners of the 2r tractors and would benefit from your quality of videos like this one. Showing everything on the lift and explaining in layman's terms makes a big difference compared to reading the manual or forums.
That's a great idea
Yes I’d love to see videos like this on the 2038R!
Tim, use some brake kleener to take off the grime in the aera where you work and use some to cleen the steel filter.
I did the 50 hour change on my 1025R, cause that is what the book said to do. I thought it was a pain but watching this video you made it look very doable. I'll be ready for the next 200 hours change. Thanks for taking the time to show and explain all parts of this oil change.
It's great to see Tim able to work and enjoy life. So glad he was able to get his medical stuff figured out.
very easy service even though I have been doing this kind of service since 2004 with a 2210 bought new and now with a 2017 1025r bought new that I still have I still go back to ur videos for a refresher. Thank u
i don't know if you're updating with new videos or if you even check these messages. But in any case, thanks for your awesome videos. Very informative and clearly explained. I'm a new owner of a 1025 and have started to watch to make sure my money isn't wasted on me being stupid. Well done. God bless.
Thanks for watching. We’re still here, and making videos!
I did this myself. Can't even begin to tell you how much I appreciate this video, Tim. I priced labor only for this procedure today from a JD dealership at $312.00. The advice you give about using Knipex pliers is on-target. The salad tong type filter wrench you recommend is best for the filter. I've had mine for many years and love it. Love you, brother.
Good morning Tim & Christy. While I did see your other fluid videos, I do like this one for my library. I will be reviewing it 10 times before I change my fluids. Thanks for sharing
Tim, thanks for all the valuable information that you have given me over the last couple of years. I have a 2022 1025R and I just did my 200 hour. The oil change was a piece of cake, greazing was kind of difficult at the hidden zurt, and the hydraulic oil went great until I found the plug washer on the bottom of the oil pan after I had already put new oil in. Luckily, it won't be too hard to drain and re-use the oil. Thanks again for all your help.
Hi Tim,
While watching your video, at around 11:45, I noticed the mouse on your pallet rack along with your cat trying to catch it!
When I change any kind of oil, I put my hand in a small plastic bag, and then remove the drain plug. keeps my hand clean and I have found that I'm less likely to drop it in the oil pan.
Watch the end of the video for more cat and mouse video.
Tim, you must be a magician, you made sliding those xxxx spring clamps up so easy on rear axle, when I finally got mine off I went outside of my garage and threw them as far as I could and returned with worm gear clamps that’ll save me 45 minutes next 200 hour service. The fuel filter under the seat was a piece of cake in comparison.
Thanks For The Great Videos
God Bless
Ha! Thanks for the chuckle. The first time was incredibly frustrating!
This time it went much better!
Tim, excellent tutorial! Don't think it could have been done any better. God bless you and your family!
I wonder if it would be best to just replace those hydraulic hose clamps with regular screw type hose clamps. Those would be much easier to loosen up.....lol....and that's why you don't comment until the end of the video! Thanks for redoing this, I'm about to do this for the second time. It will be interesting to see how the shavings look the second time.
Other commenters are saying these clamps are better
Use the spring clamps. They provide constant tension on the entire circumference of the tube. Worm gear clamps create a pressure point under the screw.
Tim, if you spray brake cleaner on the hose , the spring clamp will slide over the hose easier. It will not hurt the hose and will evaporate off the hose. It gives you just enough time to slide the clamp on. I own my own auto shop and have been using this trick for years. Spring clamps work better that worm drive clamps because the don't loosen up.
Cool. Thanks!
My daughter is 6 days old and we've been binge watching your channel all morning. Gotta get her started early! Thanks for the good wholesome content.
Congratulations Charles! Remember these days. The early days with our daughter will never be forgotten, and they go FAST!
Just saw this video now, and I found it very interesting! I have a 3039R that I just got this past summer and am looking to do more projects on it myself. If you ever want to do a roadshow, you're welcome to come to my place in northern Wisconsin and do an episode.
Thanks for all of the great videos!!
I bought that oil collection pan after the original Johnny's essential oils video series. I want to thank you for bringing this pan to my attention. It has been fantastic.
Sometimes the simple things provide the most help!
Just did my first hydraulic fluid change at 160 hours. Must say I'd been preparing for the moment by watching you and the guy on Tale of Three Cabins, both excellent tutors. So, everything went easier than planned, and from start to finish was about three hours, working at my usual snail's pace. I have one very important recommendation for those of us who can't afford a steel tractor lift: Rhino Ramps. I bought four of these on Amazon for less than $200. They held my 1025r easily and made the job almost a pleasure as far as accessing the filter, plug and screen. Next I'm going to see if they hold my pick-up truck so I can do my oil change there. I'm 79, so I think there are no excuses for not doing the hdf change yourself if you're healthy. Stay safe and keep those videos coming.
Thanks again Tim. I've never done this and was a little hesitant. I asked the dealer if they could come to my home to do it, as I don't have a trailer. They told me $450.00 ball park. I guess that's fair for having to come to my house but it's still a bit high for me, especially when it will have to be done again and again. I'll get the fluid (and another filter wrench) and give it a shot. My biggest fear is stripping the 6mm allen (hex) bolt). Thank you.
I have adopted the same processes of sliding a magnet in to get any extra filings out, well worth doing. My first fluid change at 50 hours I encountered a large amount of white gasket caulking. And lots of filings.
Hey Tim, I have recently (last year) done the 200hr service (really at 400hrs, dealer did the first one) and worked from yourold video. Did not remove wheel. I faced the hose removal challenge. Wasn't too bad. FIlter was a PIA. Had to wrap a few layers of Duct tape around it to get my wrench to work. LOL! Great videos. thanks for sharing!
If the filter is such a big issue, just drive a punch or screwdriver through it
@@Trevor4ag Last resort for me as it can be messy. That said, I've used it many times...and it gets the job done sir.
Hi TTWT! I bought a used 1025R with 150hrs a few yrs back ... when I hit 200hrs, I watched your old video and did the maintenance all on my own. I will agree with you 100%, it is NOT a difficult job to do.
Thanks for the great updated video, I'm going to perform my second Trans fluid change today. I remember my first fluid change 4 years ago so this one should be easier. Im gonna try it without removing the tire also. Thanks, john
Just did service to my tractor at 223 hours. Looks like dealer just replaced fluid and did not clean screen at 50. My case had alot of white sealant in the bottom. You state its not a problem but I will take it to my dealer next week and see what he says. Excellent video.
The sealant is normal. No issue. As far as I know, 100% of 1-series tractors have this.
sounds good, I'll let it be.@@TractorTimewithTim
Using the hoist to lift the tractor sure enhanced the view for you to demonstrate the 200 hour service, great job! Very good idea to do the service earlier. Your right that 1st filter wrench is junk. I was really surprised with the amount of shavings. There are always some trouble spots that engineers don't design for mechanics in mind.
GREAT VIDEO, VERYWELL DEMONSTRATED!
Two things I highly recommend 1) prior to doing this kind of service do yourself and your tractor a favour and spray it down all over the drive line with a cleaner de-greaser and wash off. There is nothing that can be harmed in doing this it will only make the service go smoothly and long term over all benefit the tractor. 2) Get a paint marker and mark the new oil filter with the operating hours shown on the hour meter, this makes it very easy to keep track of when to do oil services.
Nice video on the hydraulic oil change, this type of work is very good for our brains, especially as we get older.
Yep. Good for our brains, as well as for our fingers! :-)
Thanks Tim. Really like that Macnaught pump. My old dozer uses 30 gal and hauling 5gal pales up there can be a challenge
Great video as always! FYI, my John Deere dealer carries filter wrenches. I have cap style (my favorite) from them for the engine oil filter and hydraulic oil filter.
Nice metering pump for the oil bucket. Also the waste oil collection sounds interesting as well. I’m guessing we’ll see more about that later. Blessings.
It is not just Deere filters that are tight and painted on. I happen to own a Kioti ck2610hst and they have a reputation for being miserable for removing the Hydraulic oil filter. My oil filter and HST filter were not bad, Hydraulic oil filter did dent and caused a few ( Jeepers, and gosh words to be uttered). Nice video guys. Take care.
Tim, I have had one for years. I bought mine at Napa . Gearwrench 1/2 drive Nylon Strap Oil filter wrench. I haven't found very many applications that this wrench didn't work.
Hey Tim, they have spring clamp pliers that make those easy to remove. Then use a screw clamp to go back together so you don't have to fight them anymore. Just don't over torque the clamp when going back together.
Well done Tim and Christy.
I added the John Deere red die to the fluid so I can see the fluid on the dipstick.
This die helps me make my fluid level check easier with my aging eyes.
I’m now that guy at a restaurant who pulls out their phone to turn the light on so I can read the menu, and again at the end of the meal so I can see the receipt to add a tip.
Just part of getting older.
Small zip ties work well to hold those type of clamps open, on the oil line to the magnetic strainer. You can use two hands to more easily move the clamp.
Hello Tim, Craftsman make an oil filter wrench. Uses a socket wrench and has three fingers to clamp filter. Great for tight spaces.
Hi Tim. On another TH-cam video watch a tail three cabins he has a 1025R2 and when doing this oil change he shows how you don’t have to mess with those clamps you just loosen bolts up above and it gives you enough room to pull it out
I was wondering about that also. Especially since that pipe was just swapped with the new one with the oil temperature sensor. With that bracket screw removed there is plenty of play in there to get at that hose and clamps. That pipe is attached with a rubber hose at the top as well so no worriee about flexing it.
do you have a link to that video, i sure would like to make that job easier.
@@williamcoffman7149 all I know how to do is hit the search button. A tale of three cabins 1025R hydraulic oil change and it will come up.
Great information! I always enjoy the service videos. I think it helps take some of the fear away for diy.
Hey Tim my go to filter wrench are sockets they come in 4 sizes and is easy to use whether you use an Cresent wrench or a 3/8 ratchet. You first find the right size tap it on with a hammer then loosen it with any option of tool . I bought mine from Harbor Freight about 15 years ago.
Hi Tim
When you were talking about replacing the hose clamp with a worm clamp it's interesting to understand the purpose of the continuous pressure clamps. When a worm clap is tightened and the hose ages many times there will be leaks. as the hose hardens. Squeeze clamps apply steady even pressure. You will see this around transmission cooler hoses on automobiles. Worm clamps are easier but defiantly not near as good. If they were as good don't you think assembly lines would use them as they are much cheaper.
But I would expect they take considerably longer to screw tighten (install) and probably would have to be factory torqued. Everything I have read for years instructs me to not re-use those "spring" clamps. I stand to be corrected with verifiable authoritative affirmation though. I would really like to know...
1 or 2 cans of brake cleaner saves alot of towels and helps make all surfaces clean before removing items. Helps with spill clean ups too.
Yes, a JD mechanic used brake cleaner over a 5 gallon bucket to catch all the shavings.
To your point about tightness. I ride a motorcycle and when I do brake jobs or any kind of maintenance, I tighten to the torque specs. When I did some work on my tractor the other day, I noticed JD had massively overtightened bolts. They actually damaged a couple washers they overtightened so much. I bought the tech manual from JD and they have a very nice torque spec table, but it doesn't seem like they follow it at all.
I never reinstall the spring clamps. I replace them with aircraft grade T-bolt clamps. Much easier to take on and off in the future. And they can’t pop off the pliers and end up lost in the garage.
And, you can spray things off with brake cleaner to get the area around them. And, it is a a good way to clean of the screen filter.
Nice job! It's definitely nice to have a lift in your shop. I have that on my wish list for someday.
I had no idea how handy it would be.
Haha Tim! I broke my magnet as well. Just cleaned it and put it back in. You're the man! Love your channel
I likes this video a lot Tim. My Tractor 2038R will be coming up soon for this change.
Just did this fluid change at 57 hours on my 2025R, and wish I’d had watched your video prior to my project! The owners manual doesn’t seem to do a good job showing all the lubrications points, either grease zirks or superlube spray points. It would be great if you could do a video showing all these points if you haven’t done one already. I know the 2025R has the “hidden” flywheel zirk, and I counted four total zirks on the machine itself and I’m not sure if there’s more. Thanks.
12” knipex channel locks will take the filter right off. It looks like it won’t fit, but I got it in there with the PTO shaft still attached. Tim is right Knipex pliers are legit.
Saw your mouser at work in the back ground. Sorry I forgot to check the time stamp, but it was in the first third of the video. BTW thanks for the class.
Watch the end of the episode for more cat and mouse.
Those strap filter wrenches work and work well as long as you don't get the cheap rubber straps. There is a strap wrench that had cords in it similar to a serpentine belt that does not really stretch and it works very well
Looks like a pretty simple task you ask me some people are not mechanically inclined so it might be a little harder for them good video Tim
Thanks….as always…. Tim and Christy. After watching one of your first hydraulic changes I tried it. Yes, the clamp / hose combo will make a newbie like me have to take a couple of deep breaths. I finally got a pair of needle nose vise grips and locked them on the clamp. That way I was able to work the pry movement better. It worked like a dream. Thanks again for all you guys do. Never stop with the verses at the end. Tony
Great video. Love how you put a hole in the paint tray to catch the oil and have it go where you want, thank you. I would have never thought of that and so useful for other things.
Your comment about the oil pump being high end is an understatement. A battery powered pump and flow meter is around $750. I can't see many DIY folks going that route instead of a funnel. :-)
Without the flow meter, it is $394….then 10% discount. That is much more reasonable in my opinion.
Another great and informative video Tim. I am not even interested in a 1025r and I enjoyed this.
Thanks Bryan.
They do make the cups for the oil filter. I like all your videos, you give a lot of useful information. I have a 2019 model with about 130 hours. I’m dreading having to do this. I had a 2014 model and it had the 50 hour service. I think since it was a new model til they worked the clearances just right they had everyone do the 50 hour service. My 2014 model I used brake cleaner to clean that screen and then I used the new oil to relube the screen.
As someone who basically baths in hydraulic oil - don't dread it. The worst part is the very first time because as Tim noted - the suction tube elbows and clamps are painted on which adds thickness and makes it a pain - the first time. Each remaining time it's a pretty easy job and takes (on the driveway, no lift) about 30-45 minutes. A few notes: Before you drain the fluid, if you have a MMM, remove it, take off the 3 point and lower the three point (this makes more room near the hydraulic filter under the tractor with the mower linkage down). I use the 3 claw Gearwrench Oil filter wrench - uses a 3/8 drive ratchet to manipulate - works great.
Great video. Just wondering.? Is this the fluid that operates the hydraulic cylinders. ? If so, then should the cylinders be retracted to get all the fluid out. ?
Nice job! A large pair of channel locks work good for me to remove my oil filters. keep up the good work!
Great tutorial! The battery oil pump is a handy item to have!
Great maintenance video. Didn’t even know about that magnet and the need to do that. Thanks for sharing.
John Deere TY26514 nylon strap oil filter wrench allows the use of a 1/2" ratchet. Might be handy for this filter.
A few more questions for the experts...
How much pressure does the hydraulic filter handle on the 1025R?
It is a very thick wall, heavy duty filter. Does it handle 2000+ psi?
My 1025R also had large amounts of metal on the pump intake screen. There was so much, I think it was restricting the flow. My machine now has well over 700 hours so the oil has been changed multiple times.
What is causing the metal in the hydraulic oil? Is it from pump wear?
My oil also smelt a bit burnt. I have been using the backhoe a lot and getting the oil very hot. Does the 1025R have a hydrating oil temperature sensor? Is there an hydraulic oil overheat light on the dash?
Tim, your videos are extremely helpful. In this case I was able to get all of the tools I needed and walk to the rear barn to change the oil, instead of walking back and forth over and over getting the tools I needed...
I suspect you are indeed overheating the oil. Look into the upgraded oil cooler from hydrosplus.com use code ttwt.
I have oil temp gauges on mine, but they are not available retail. TractorUniverse.com has an article on what is needed and how to do it.
Another great video Tim! I had not watched your original hydraulic service video and was curious about the screen removal. Looks easy! Thanks!
Best video put on TH-cam. EVER. What diameter is the clamp needed if the hose clamps are replaced?
Based on other comments, I don’t recommend replacing the clamp
Remember Tim, Brake Cleaner is your friend. The added torque on the filter and the hex bolt usually come from paint the first time you disassemble them.
Very helpful I have to get mine done shortly
Thank you
Well done, clear easy instruction. How did I find TTWT TH-cam channel? The original hydro oil replacement video. 😀
Cool story. I didn’t know that!
Nice explanation on how to do this even though I don't need it because I don't have a 1025r (or any Deere tractor for that matter😁} And I will confess that you had me, for a while, with the cat and mouse in the background! I was all ready to ask in the comments if anyone else saw that or if Bullseye caught the mouse! I am glad to report, however, that I did figure it out BEFORE the end of the video. 🤣🤣👨🚒
Great video Tim! Did anyone else notice at 11:45 in the video if you look at the background your cat is trying to catch a mouse or something.
Yea, watch the end of the video for more…
@@TractorTimewithTim I thought it was a real mouse and missed it was a tv screen. Good training for the cat
20, 2025r no gasket material and I use same filter wrench also have a pair of L shaped pliers worked awesome on the spring clamps
Going video Tim, I'm just coming up to 50hr on the 2025r and like normal your information is very helpful. Keep the good stuff coming. Have a great day and thanks
Excellent Video. I have a 2003 John Deere 2210 I'm assuming that the process is very much the same. Oh course I don't have a Lift, So I will be doing all of this under the Tractor on the Ground. I'm wondering if maybe replacing those two Spring Clamps with two spiral hose clamps might make the process of putting the hoses back on and tightening a lot easier. Of course carefully so as not to overdue the tightening. Any thoughts?
I do not know how similar. 1025r was a pretty big change from 2210.
I always used brake cleaner to clean the screen. Worked good when I used to have a little Deere 2305 tractor.
from the farm i worked for that low vis or high vis hyd oil it has to do with temp and thickness of the oil at one point i somewhat had idea of it but have forgot it from being away from it for so long now
Tim you can spray break clean on those screens and the outside to get the dirt of the outside housing
You have convinced me I can do and will give it a shot thank you
Thanks Tim for the info on the 200 hrs service. I did do it and was glad I did!!! What a do yo think of the Bobcat Tractors ??? The 1025r as good??? What do you think about me moving up the hydraulic pressure on my 1025r ??? What is your opinion… Thanks a nd have a blessed day
1025r is by far the best subcompact tractor. None of the rest come close.
I will not advise on increasing pressure. Sorry.
I know most don't, but might want to torque the filter screw and oil drain plug to the correct values, hate to strip out either of those when they go into a block of aluminum. I am sure your arm is calibrated, but galling out the threads would make an easy change an expensive one if you had to purchase a new trans-axle housing or send it to a machine shop to have things re-threaded. Just a bit of armchair advice, from someone who has done it before in an aluminum block! 😁👍
Thanks as always for your helpful videos. One tip that you might like, there is actually a really cool tool for removing those hose clamps. Astro Pneumatic 9409A Pliers (available on Amazon and other places). These allow you to open the clamp and lock it in the full open position so you can use both hands to slide it along the pipe. They are also great for all those tight spots where you can't get the Knipex on a clamp! Another thing that will help with removing those tight filters, grip them at the base, right where the filter attaches to the housing. The filter body is stronger there and more of your torque will go to loosening the filter. If you grip it in the middle, the can tends to crush and twist.
just ordered it. thanks.
@@TractorTimewithTim Knipex makes a nice locking spring hose clamp that can swivel as well.
Hey Tim..They make pliers specifically for those cinch clamps. Thanks for the videos!
I ordered a set today based on earlier comments.
@@TractorTimewithTim Knipex for the win. :)
I always enjoy watching your videos, keep them coming, Tim.
Thanks Tim. You made it look like it can be done reasonably easy.
Thanks for the great video! What is the ballpark price a dealer would charge you for this service?
Hey Tim, great videos! Love the info on the 1025R…the only issue with this video is that very few of us will have that really nice lift. Have you done this from the floor before and if so, how much harder do these steps become? Thanks!!
I did. I think I removed that video because this one is better. It isn’t that difficult. Raising just makes things easier to reach. I drove it up on blocks.
This is a very helpful and excellent video and very much appreciated. Thank you
Just in time. Getting close to my 50 hour. Thank you
Oh Tim, you may not have warmed the oil enough to help it drain. You did mention air pressure and I may have missed it in the video. You don't want the oil too hot as it can burn. I test the block temperature with my hand while it’s warming up. I would throw away those hose clamps use the worm gear type as they are so much easier to use. A very good production and a bit more light would help see whats happening.
tim, what size knipex pliers do you have?..was on your amazon store page and had varous size lengths...want to get the right size to use on my 1025R.....thank you in advance....
7.25” are the ones I carry. I have 10” as well.
When I did this service on my 2018 1025R, I tried to reuse the O rings on the elbow (or 90 if you prefer) that the 6mm Allan bolt secures. The outer O ring that is compressed when the bolt is tightened had become oval or squished after being compressed for a lengthy period of time, and of course leaked... which means fighting with the hose clamps again after declaring victory originally. This is just a long winded way of saying if your machine is older, check the O rings if you don’t want to pay for hose clamp anger management therapy.
I always write the date and hours on the filter with a silver sharpie or paint pen.
Also, seems like you would benefit from adding a waste oil heater in your shop since you probably have a lot of waste oil from your machines and vehicles. I've been watching a lot of youtube on DIY versions, but there are commercial versions as well.
Looks like there be a better way for JD to engineer to get the filter magnet out with having to remove that pipe is Kubota tractor the same way?
18" Channelocks are the ultimate universal oil/fuel filter wrench. They easily remove 95% plus filters on any flavor equipment. You can use them for spring clamps and to twist hoses to release them as well. Great for pulling stubborn pins and rotating top links/turnbuckles or getting a pto shaft to line up the splines. Keep a set on the tractor and you will be going to them constantly. Well worth the investment, and handy for many jobs.
You should try the Knipex pliers. So much more refined. Amazing!
I have a couple sets of the Knipex, they're great, especially the Swedish pattern ones and they can put a lot of torque on frontend parts/pipe/rounded heads, but they don't fit the big stuff. The big Channelocks (model 480, 20 1/4" rated) might be a tad less refined, but they open up to almost 6" for filters, and have the leverage of the 18" + handles. They'll squash a filter flat if it's been overtightened (all too common, as you pointed out), but I never had even one oil filter I couldn't get off in over 30 years swinging wrenches, excepting the very rare case when they can't get into a very tight place.
Could ypu do maintenance on 3000 series? Great video
Can you do a video about the turf rail, I have an asymmetrical rotary lift and been looking for something exactly like it, but doubt my cab New Holland PowerStar 75 could be lifted but my UTV and ATV definitely would make repairs much easier
Need A Lift? Taking Johnny to New Heights!
th-cam.com/video/o_dd-zaRUSo/w-d-xo.html
Turf Rail! Can it lift a Deere 5075e + Loader + Ballast?
th-cam.com/video/fsYDD3tUdIk/w-d-xo.html
Hi to the Tractor Time with Tim love the the content. Have you ever thought of using some brake clearer on some of the parts.