Very good video Thanks Some time my 1926 ford start shaking really bad so I change the arm pit and in the opposite side the ball joint (not expensive) but I notice still same shaking and then I realized that the bottom of the gearbox is loose Cuestión : the new part comes with the bushings and everything? Thanks
Hi Javier, You will need to buy all the parts separately. The bushing does require a reamer and you should use a tool to drive the bushing into place. Hope that helps. Thanks
Dave, thank you so much for posting this! I have been struggling with working on my worn 1927 steering and this is the only posting that has helped me! I need your advice getting the Pitman off. Someone ran the Pitman too far up the column so it is really stuck. The nut goes past the hole so no cotter pin was in it. I’ve ordered a new puller since the one I have just slides off. I’ve injured my ancient back working on it under the car. Also the groove in the gear case is worn about 1/4 inch on each side but no ramping. I’m not sure what to do about that as none are remanufactored. I’m hoping replacing worn pins and gears will be enough. So appreciate advice from you!
Hi Sammy, the pitman arm can be tough to get off. You might try heating it up. The heat won't hurt it. As far as a replacement gear case, you might post on the MTFCA classifieds. They don't make new ones, but there are lots of old ones out there. If your steering shaft is worn at the bottom end and you don't want to spend $180 for a new one, you can weld up the worn area and turn it back down to size on a lathe. Let me know how your project turns out.
I got the Pitman arm off! Found a better fitting puller, tightened it, hit the Pitman and it came off. I have a ‘27 coupe so I had to take everything apart except the bottom support to get the steering rod out. Too worn to reuse so plan to order a new one. I have another question. The brass bushing is sticking out about an inch. Either someone replaced it and didn’t get it all the way in or it has worked partially out. The bushing is stuck tight however. Should I leave that bottom support where it is still attached to the frame and reuse it? Or should I remove it and replace the bushing? Is there a tool to push the bushing in? Do you have a video showing how? Thank you for your help!
@@sammyboy8760 You should remove the support. I would install a new bushing. You should buy the bushing driver. Once driven in it will need to be reamed out so the shaft will fit. I use an adjustable reamer. When reinstalling, assemble the entire steering column, including the bottom mounting bracket.
@@ModelTTime once again, thank you. Will do. At 76, I’m having to rest today but will remove bracket later. I ordered everything from Snyder’s but they didn’t have a bushing driver or an adjustable reamer. I probably can get a reamer at auto parts store or Home Depot, but where would I find a bushing driver? Bless you for helping. I’m new to T’s.
Howdy! My name is Gary. I have a 26' T 2door. I first saw the car 52 years ago. A friend bought it. I had a disability so he never drove it more than 5 times in that 52 years. I was just a kid back then but I remembered that there was a problem with the steering on it. Whenever we got up to second gear speed, it had a terrible shimmy to it. We figured that the steering column brass bushing and perhaps the shaft were worn out. His solution was to cut up a soup can and slip the pieces down the shaft to take up the slack in the bushing. The friend passed away and now the car is mine. May I ask you a few questions? 1) Was the steering shaft that you were working with new or was it the original? 2) If it was original, did you find that the majority, if not all, of the wear on the bushing and not the shaft? I'd rather not replace the shaft if I can get away with it. 3) Did you punch out the bushing and if so did you drive upward, towards the cab or downward towards the front end? I was thinking of removing the shaft, welding/machining it but FB Model T'ers said the steel might crack. I am looking at trying to limit expenses on it. A new shaft is $237 +++. Exchange on the Canadian Peso is not great. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Gary
Hi Gary, the steering shaft is original. It is worn at the bushing end. I replaced the bushing when the column was out of the car so I don't remember which way I punched it out. I did have to ream it out to fit the shaft after replacing it. It is still loose at the bushing but has not caused me any steering problems. If you want, just weld and machine your shaft. If it cracks..... :-( Many times the problem is in the king pins and bushings. Are they tight? How about the tie rod end bolts and bushings? Don't forget to check the ball and socket at the engine end of the wishbone.
Thank you! Now there is no unknown about the steering column for me to fear. Good job!
Glad to help!
It is such a lost art restoring a model T. Thank you for your work.
Many thanks! Few people "repair" anything anymore. You just replace assemblies on cars today.
Very good video
Thanks
Some time my 1926 ford start shaking really bad so I change the arm pit and in the opposite side the ball joint (not expensive) but I notice still same shaking and then I realized that the bottom of the gearbox is loose
Cuestión : the new part comes with the bushings and everything?
Thanks
Hi Javier,
You will need to buy all the parts separately. The bushing does require a reamer and you should use a tool to drive the bushing into place. Hope that helps.
Thanks
@@ModelTTime thank you
Are you OK? Can't breath?
Dave, thank you so much for posting this! I have been struggling with working on my worn 1927 steering and this is the only posting that has helped me! I need your advice getting the Pitman off. Someone ran the Pitman too far up the column so it is really stuck. The nut goes past the hole so no cotter pin was in it. I’ve ordered a new puller since the one I have just slides off. I’ve injured my ancient back working on it under the car. Also the groove in the gear case is worn about 1/4 inch on each side but no ramping. I’m not sure what to do about that as none are remanufactored. I’m hoping replacing worn pins and gears will be enough. So appreciate advice from you!
Hi Sammy, the pitman arm can be tough to get off. You might try heating it up. The heat won't hurt it. As far as a replacement gear case, you might post on the MTFCA classifieds. They don't make new ones, but there are lots of old ones out there. If your steering shaft is worn at the bottom end and you don't want to spend $180 for a new one, you can weld up the worn area and turn it back down to size on a lathe. Let me know how your project turns out.
@@ModelTTime thank you for your prompt gracious reply!
I got the Pitman arm off! Found a better fitting puller, tightened it, hit the Pitman and it came off. I have a ‘27 coupe so I had to take everything apart except the bottom support to get the steering rod out. Too worn to reuse so plan to order a new one. I have another question. The brass bushing is sticking out about an inch. Either someone replaced it and didn’t get it all the way in or it has worked partially out. The bushing is stuck tight however. Should I leave that bottom support where it is still attached to the frame and reuse it? Or should I remove it and replace the bushing? Is there a tool to push the bushing in? Do you have a video showing how? Thank you for your help!
@@sammyboy8760 You should remove the support. I would install a new bushing. You should buy the bushing driver. Once driven in it will need to be reamed out so the shaft will fit. I use an adjustable reamer. When reinstalling, assemble the entire steering column, including the bottom mounting bracket.
@@ModelTTime once again, thank you. Will do. At 76, I’m having to rest today but will remove bracket later. I ordered everything from Snyder’s but they didn’t have a bushing driver or an adjustable reamer. I probably can get a reamer at auto parts store or Home Depot, but where would I find a bushing driver? Bless you for helping. I’m new to T’s.
Howdy! My name is Gary. I have a 26' T 2door. I first saw the car 52 years ago. A friend bought it. I had a disability so he never drove it more than 5 times in that 52 years. I was just a kid back then but I remembered that there was a problem with the steering on it. Whenever we got up to second gear speed, it had a terrible shimmy to it. We figured that the steering column brass bushing and perhaps the shaft were worn out. His solution was to cut up a soup can and slip the pieces down the shaft to take up the slack in the bushing.
The friend passed away and now the car is mine. May I ask you a few questions?
1) Was the steering shaft that you were working with new or was it the original?
2) If it was original, did you find that the majority, if not all, of the wear on the bushing and not the shaft? I'd rather not replace the shaft if I can get away with it.
3) Did you punch out the bushing and if so did you drive upward, towards the cab or downward towards the front end?
I was thinking of removing the shaft, welding/machining it but FB Model T'ers said the steel might crack. I am looking at trying to limit expenses on it. A new shaft is $237 +++. Exchange on the Canadian Peso is not great.
Any advice you can give would be appreciated.
Gary
Hi Gary, the steering shaft is original. It is worn at the bushing end. I replaced the bushing when the column was out of the car so I don't remember which way I punched it out. I did have to ream it out to fit the shaft after replacing it. It is still loose at the bushing but has not caused me any steering problems.
If you want, just weld and machine your shaft. If it cracks..... :-(
Many times the problem is in the king pins and bushings. Are they tight? How about the tie rod end bolts and bushings? Don't forget to check the ball and socket at the engine end of the wishbone.