Just ordered these exact Zetas yesterday and was looking for exactly this sort of video after reading about the bolt size difference, Thanks, very well detailed and filmed!
That's great. Glad it'll help. Just remember to go easy with the tap. Back and forth to clear the debris. They break easily otherwise. The advantage to doing it this way is the guards are super solid at the bar end.
I finally put on the wrap around hand guards today. I’ve had them for sometime. I know several CRF300L owners change out the handlebars and grips while putting on hand guards. Some complain about having to tap the bar ends to 8mm threads. However, after watching how you did the job I decided to take it on. So I took my time and had no trouble at all. The tip you gave about using a slightly larger drill bit to allow for the unthreaded portion of the bolt was most helpful, otherwise I can see how people would make a mess of this especially if they get in a hurry. Thank you very much for the video! Don from Texas.
Glad it went well for you, Don. Yup, attention to detail makes all the difference. You're right about taking time to do it, especially while using the tap. So easy to snap them by going too fast and not backing them off to clean. Enjoy your rides :-)
I attempted to use your method of drilling and tap the insert hole to 8mm. I came into a slight problem when the drill bit broke off inside the insert. Duhhh So I ended up pulling off the grips and found a dimple about 1" in from the bar end on the top. This dimple is what's holding in place the insert. I drilled through the dimple and the insert slid right on out. Super easy. Just a plan B if anyone comes into trouble like me.
I have the rally and there is a dimple on the top and also another one on the bottom. That dimple is spring loaded, so you can also take something like a nail punch and tap on it and the insert should slide out... I had to tap on the top one and the bottom one before it came out. This was just the clutch side so far, I haven’t made to the throttle side yet...
The INSERTS are removable. Remove the grips and there are two holes where the weights are pushed in and a tab pops into each hole. Depress both tabs while pulling on the weight and it will slide out.
Thanks. Yeah I've learned that since this video. I would still do it the same way though, as this retains the anti-vibe qualities and the resulting setup is stronger than using the standard expander bolts in regular bars. Not to say the bars are stronger, lol, but the handguards are rock solid ;-)
Another fine video. Wish I had watched before getting my Cycra probend handguards with HCM. Will it be same procedure with them I assume? Thanks again for the help.
Thanks. If the guards come with an M8 bolt and you want to use that instead of substituting an M6 bolt, then yes it would be the same I would think. Easiest way is to use an M6 bolt to fit the inserts, but it won't be as strong.
I gotta say I find it kinda hilarious to go through this only to use the Zeta bolts supplied that look like aluminum. They are not, I tested them with a magnet so they're coated with something. God knows what they actually are as there's no grading or specs in the instruction or parts list about them. so I replaced them both with full thread ss grade 10.9 M8 of course so I didn't have to bother counter sinking. Added a couple appropriate sized ss washers inside the recess space in the bar ends as well. I share your train of thought completely in all of this... until it gets to using the supplied mystery hardware.
Not knowing the strength of fittings is an uneasy feeling, but I can tell you those Zeta Bolts are strong. I've used the same setup on another bike that crashed at some speed. The right handguard took the hardest hit before the bike bounced down the trail. The handguard rail was chewed up as expected, but the fitting didn't budge. And no, like you say, the bolts are not aluminum. Your setup sounds like it'll serve you well. Peace of mind :-)
@Scoot Toots Zeta is apparently Japanese owned AND manufactured... so they SHOULD be quality.👍 I've gotten Chinese hardware before that's heads rounded out at about 8 ft/lbs torque.😆 Pretty sure they made em outta smelted pop cans.
I'm sure there is some cost reason why Honda did the bars this way but it sure does make it a pain for us compared to doing it the usual way. But where there is a challenge, we riders find a way to prevail! Great job, John!
I guess the inserts help with the vibrations from the stroked engine. Just a bit odd that Honda tapped the threads to M6 rather than M8. But yes, there's always a way. Cheers Casey :-)
Thank you for the video. I was wondering if those handle bar inserts the factory put in could be pulled out completely so you could use the zeta expanders. Thank you Mike
I could tighten the bolt on the clutch side where the insert is recessed in, and no matter how hard I tightened, the insert did not move, so I doubt they can be removed with a slide hammer or any other method without extreme fuss.
Just my opinion. Also, on the clutch side (on mine at least) there is a recess as seen in the video. A good hit could then cause the bolt to bend in the unsupported length, moving the handguard out of position. Simple task to tap the thread for M8 for better strength. The other reason I chose to tap was aesthetic. The M8 bolt Zeta supplies is nicely finished and shaped to fit snugly into the countersunk handguard rail.
I tried drilling them but the inserts spun inside the handlebars. Spent a long time trying to hold and drill them. Finally tool a drift and pounded them back 2" inside the bars. So much easier.
I got the Zeta Drop Down Bend, Model # ZE72-0001. I have used this version before. They are very strong and the bend allows for better placement for good lever protection. Thanks :-)
NOW I see this video! I only JUST now finished doing this exact same thing! I think that age, grey hair and years of experimenting led us both down the exact same path!😂👴🏻🇨🇦
any difference in vibration after removing the end weights? Or do the guards constitute a similar weight after the steel knobs have been thrown in the parts bin? Considering handguards for mine, and leaning toward just using a higher strength M6 screw into that interior piece and modding some bar weights (or the originals) to hang on the outside of those. I drill and tap stuff all the time, but I think it's pretty unlikely an M6 inside the bar end could take a load that wouldn't bend or rip the aluminum guard strap first. Of course anything can happen. I guess once you've drilled and tapped for 8 it'd be simple to drill the original end weights out to 8 to refit if necessary, so 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
My CB650F has end weights and internal weights, but there are no end weights on the crf300l handlebar. There are only internal weights which I left in place. The reason I chose to tap for an M8 screw was: 1.) It allowed me to use the stock screw from Zeta which is M8 and countersunk to fit flush into the recess on the handguard arm. 2.) The internal weight is recessed from the bar end on the clutch side, creating empty unsupported space around the screw. A good hit to the handguard will bend an M6 bolt much easier, creating an annoying bad fit.
@@Scoottoots Russia) Strangely we can buy crf300 Rally (sorry, i mistyped 250 earlier), but crf300l is not available =/ I hope Honda will bring it us maybe later or next year.
I finally got my Rally last week. Bought the Zeta handguards you recommended. Is there a trick to getting the bar ends weights off? I've been trying a Phillips screwdriver but it's in there extremely tight. Did you have to clamp the bar end weight somehow?
Gee, I'm uncertain what you mean. My bike is the standard L Model. I do not know if the Rally has a different setup. If you watched the video, you'll see how the standard L version is set up. If your bar weights are the same as in the video, then just follow the procedure I outline. I did not remove the weights. They are threaded for an M6 bolt. To use the heavier M8 bolt that comes with the guards, I drilled the threads out using the correct size for tapping to M8, then I tapped with an M8 tap. I also had to recess drill on one side as the video shows so the bolt will snug. Watch the video and see if what I just said makes sense for your model.
@@Scoottoots The Rally has these bar end weights attached with a Phillips screw. The non-Rally must not have them. I'm having a heck of time trying to remove them. The folks at SR Moto say the same thing on their site: soloracer.com/crf300lhndgrds.html May have to cut the ends off with a hacksaw!
@@simonf.2504 I've never seen the Rally setup. The end weights in the standard version are bonded into the bar, with no end piece attached to them, though they are threaded. I wonder if your end weights in the Rally are screwed into the same inserts the standard version has and that are visible in the video. My only suggestion is NOT to use a Phillips screwdriver. The screws that look like a phillips head are not. They are JIS head screws. Honda does not use Phillips. JIS screwdrivers are available but you may have a hard time finding them locally and quick. Amazon sells them. The best ones are called Vessel JIS Drivers. They function also as an impact driver, so if you have a stubborn screw, you wack the and of the driver and it turns the driver 12° counterclockwise to break it loose. JIS drivers do not cam out like a phillips driver will when the screw is stubborn.
I checked the link you provided to soloracer. I couldn't see reference to the Rally version regarding the handguard install. As far as I can see they only talk about the Standard L version and their solution to drill and tap is the same procedure as in my video. BTW, if you can borrow an electric impact driver that has screwdriver bits, in a pinch try the phillips bit that comes with the impact driver. You'll have to brace the other end of the bar against a wall so you can push hard on the driver while triggering it. Might strip it, but then again it may just crack it loose. Like I say above, the screws are JIS, not Phillips.
@@Scoottoots I got referred to another TH-cam link: th-cam.com/video/nMtPdvhLJUg/w-d-xo.html It explained perfectly how to remove the bar weights and plugs. Was a bit of struggle but I got it done. So I used the Zeta's own expanding hardware in the now hollow tube and no drilling or tapping was required.
I just bought hand guards from T-Rex. I got the clutch side guard installed by cutting off 1/4" of their bar end insert. Not sure what to do with the throttle side at this point. I don't know if it would be better to cut off the bar end insert part they sent to avoid putting pressure on the Honda threaded bar end (and throttle return) or to drill out the end to get T-Rex's insert portion to not interfere with throttle return. T-Rex bar end attachment is about 14 mm wide (35/64" I think), which is a pretty big hole. Is it possible to cut the stock threaded bar end back about 1/2" or so? I can see the threads are pretty close to the bar end. Not sure of the best way to proceed with this problem.
Well, as you might guess my solution is to drill and tap so as to use the bolt supplied with most handguards directly into the new threading in the Honda bar inserts. That way the handguard is very secure and the anti-vibration inserts are still functional. I don't know what the T-Rex guards are like, but if you are wanting to use an expander sleeve/bolt combo as is usual on handguards, then I suppose you could use an appropriate diameter drill bit to drill back the inserts to give you room enough for the fitting you want to use. I'm commenting blind here, so what I said may not make sense as I can't picture your situation.
@@Scoottoots I don't know how to upload a photo of the part I'm talking about that attaches. When I snug it up against the throttle tube, there is no return to decelerate. I don't think the insert was hitting the rubber grip so I'm guessing I'll have to drill out a 14 mm hole in threaded bar end. Did you cut off any portion of the throttle tube to get clearance ?
@@bigd9281 It sounds like you have the hand guard attached to the bar but your throttle tube sticks on the return. If that's what you're saying, then the guard must be touching the throttle tube and/or the grip. And yes, I cut the throttle tube and grip back a bit so that the handlebar extends slightly beyond the grip and tube. That way the throttle has no chance of binding when the guards are tightened down securely. The photo at 4:24 shows that.
@@Scoottoots Thanks for that info, sorry I'm probably keeping you up late. How much did you cut the throttle tube back (1/2" or so?). I don't want to screw it up and have to buy a new one.
@@bigd9281 No worries, I'm just about to shut down though. Just examine the photo at 4:24 time in the video and you'll see I cut the grip and throttle tube back just enough so that the handlebar protrudes slightly beyond the grip and throttle tube by maybe 1.5mm to 2mm at the most. Only just enough so when you twist the throttle, the grip and tube cannot touch and bind against the newly installed handguard. I hope that makes sense and applies to your situation.
@@Scoottoots I just bought a drill bit type tap thingy for the job. Ordered those guards with the pro size plastic guards for my winter riding……was gonna be lazy and use m6 bolts, but my grandpa would say take the time to do it right
@@mrcla55yguy20 The M6 can be used but the the M8 is proper. Well strong enough and the stock bolt that comes with the guards looks best and fits snug in the attachment. Be sure to go slowly, a bit at a time, backing the tap out to clear the debris. They are brittle and can break easily if bullied in ;-)
If you're happy with an M6 bolt just use an M6 with any make of handguards. The point here is I prefer the stronger M8 bolt that most all handguards use for a good reason. Big difference in size and strength. Pretty simple process to do this and you end up with a stronger set up.
@@Scoottoots actually, you only end up with more strength at that one point, not all over the setup. That’s why it’s isn’t of much value. The force to shear half decent 6mm stainless bolts is going to completely crush the aluminium frames anyway. So, yes, I’m happy with the 6mm as were the Barkbusters engineers, obviously.
Nah, the bends in the guards create great strength at the angle the hit would occur, especially the Zeta drop bend design. That's why I choose it. An M6 bolt properly snugged up would likely be fine in most instances though most manufacturers disagree. But here, one bar has a recess before the insert starts. That unsupported bolt length can compromise an M6, not necessarily to sheer it, but leverage in a hit will bend it at that point. One could drill out a spacer to keep the length of the bolt snug, but that would likely be more work than drilling and tapping for an M8. Perhaps not all 300L's have this recess, but mine does, and when given an option I'd rather take the cleanest route to a proper fitting. The resulting setup is extremely strong. No compromise :-)
@@Scoottoots nope. Nothing near the shear strength of a decent 6mm bolt. The only way a 6mm is going to break before those aluminium bars give way is if it is overstressed by over torquing when tightening using a tool with too much leverage. This leaves it in a state of high stress where even a bump can be the straw that breaks it's back. Then it won't shear. It will have an elastic failure at 0 degrees to the shaft. Looks similar when you don't know what you are looking at, but quite different under magnification.
@@theoriginalEmuman You didn't read my comment. I didn't say it would shear the bolt. I said "not necessarily to shear" the bolt but bend it in the unsupported space. Once bent by the leveraged impact, the guard is compromised. Pretty easy to bend an unsupported length of an M6. Anyway, we're getting too picky here I think. You have a setup you're happy with, and I have shared a setup that works well with the 300L bar inserts, and is stronger than the common method of using expander bolts in ordinary bars. Drilling and tapping is not rocket science, nor is it an onerous task.
LIESSSSSSSS!!!!!!!! You do not need a drill and tap me and my dad just did this project on our 2023 Crf 300L, Honda puts a little pre made nut inside the handle bar for you to connect hand guards, there should be no reason to use a drill and tap, all you need to do is find one of the bolts in your bag it came with (i used acerbis but that doesn’t matter, when i went to home depot it was a M6 1.0. I promise you all you have to do is slice the end of te rubber handle off and even the plastic insert in the grip so ir doesn’t rub your washer against the throttle/ grip and smack em on i never drilled out that bolt ( even though i was 100% going to). These are not instructions on how to install it merely just a trick of the trade. Have fun and just keep trying
LOL, by the time it takes you to go to Home Depot to find an M6 bolt with the correct countersinking to match the handguards for a neat flush finish, you could have had it complete -- the right way. It took me 20 minutes to use the proper Zeta supplied M8 bolt that is matched to the countersunk handguard rail. The Zeta handguards are exceptionally strong and they use an M8 bolt for good reasons. The rail doesn't budge out of position in crashes. There are lots of inferior ways to do a task. Your choice.
The right way? LOL. Takes a lot longer and cost a lot more to install risers, new bars, and handguards, than it does to drill and tap the stock bars, or just remove the inserts. The stock bars are perfectly fine. And risers? Most people install them because they don't know how to stand. They think they should be standing upright.
@@Scoottoots Exactly, I'll probably install new bars someday but I know I need handguards now and this is the way I'll be going. Thanks for taking the time to detail this part, alot of other vids mention it but I wanted to see exactly what's inside the stock bars and appreciate it!
@@pooserj Thanks John. Even if you swap bars down the line it's always good fun to do stuff like this, and at least for me, it provides an extremely solid mount for the hand guards. So far I'm finding the stock bars are fine. One less expense :-)
Why would you need new bars AND risers?🤔 Are you 7' tall? Just buy high bars.🤷 Majority of people who put risers on bikes don't know how to stand on a bike. You don't literally stand.😅 Do it right though.👍😂
I discovered this problem last week. It really pissed me off. I went and bought an M6 bolt. If you think your bike's 300lb weight can sheer an M6 bolt you are crazy! Just put an M6 in there and be done with it. You obviously aren't an engineer. It would take more than a ton (2,000lbs) of force to sheer that M6 bolt. Stop being stupid. People , hello people,. just put an M6 in there and be done with it. I looped my CRF300L on a very steep incline 4 days ago. That crash bend the rear tail light assembly got clumps of dirt in the crash guards (after-maket crash guards) and a little dirt up on the clutch lever because that is the side it fell on. I was such a steep incline I could barely pick the bike up. I thought I was going to have to call a friend to help me get it up. My handguard bolts didn't break. It is ridiculous to think you are going to shear off an M6 bolt in the location that bolt is in. How in the hell is 2,500 lbs of force going to be applied radially along the bolts axis to shear that bolt. STOP BEING RETARDED! Put an M6 in there!
What a ridiculous comment! You're a real keyboard warrior aren't you? If you actually watched and listened you would know I did not say the M6 would shear off. Of course it would not shear off. I said it wasn't strong enough. If you couldn't figure it out for yourself, that is due to the recess between the end of the bar and the beginning of the female threads on the clutch side, the M6 in a hard impact may bend in the free space. An M8 bolt will not allow that. Small point perhaps, but then there is no chance of a misaligned handguard rail at the bar end after a crash. The other reason I did it the 'correct' way is so I could use the Zeta M8 countersunk bolt for a clean smooth finish. Do as you like. I prefer to do it right. For anyone who knows how to handle tools, drilling and tapping is a quick easy task.
You can also run a dye on the bolt for throttle side
I guess you mean for the shoulder, instead of recess drilling. Yes, I could have done that. Didn't think of it :-)
Going through the exact same thing with the exact same tap and die set lol. Thanks for making this!
It was a good value set I think. This method results in a very strong setup. I've tested it out twice, lol, and they did not budge at all :-)
Just ordered these exact Zetas yesterday and was looking for exactly this sort of video after reading about the bolt size difference, Thanks, very well detailed and filmed!
That's great. Glad it'll help. Just remember to go easy with the tap. Back and forth to clear the debris. They break easily otherwise. The advantage to doing it this way is the guards are super solid at the bar end.
I finally put on the wrap around hand guards today. I’ve had them for sometime. I know several CRF300L owners change out the handlebars and grips while putting on hand guards. Some complain about having to tap the bar ends to 8mm threads. However, after watching how you did the job I decided to take it on. So I took my time and had no trouble at all. The tip you gave about using a slightly larger drill bit to allow for the unthreaded portion of the bolt was most helpful, otherwise I can see how people would make a mess of this especially if they get in a hurry. Thank you very much for the video! Don from Texas.
Glad it went well for you, Don. Yup, attention to detail makes all the difference. You're right about taking time to do it, especially while using the tap. So easy to snap them by going too fast and not backing them off to clean. Enjoy your rides :-)
@@Scoottoots Exactly about the tap. I cleaned and oiled the tap 3 or 4 times probably on each side. Thank you.
I attempted to use your method of drilling and tap the insert hole to 8mm. I came into a slight problem when the drill bit broke off inside the insert. Duhhh
So I ended up pulling off the grips and found a dimple about 1" in from the bar end on the top. This dimple is what's holding in place the insert. I drilled through the dimple and the insert slid right on out. Super easy. Just a plan B if anyone comes into trouble like me.
That's great info. Thanks for sharing that with us. I wondered how the inserts were fixed in place :-)
I agree. That is really good info. Thanks for sharing that.
I have the rally and there is a dimple on the top and also another one on the bottom. That dimple is spring loaded, so you can also take something like a nail punch and tap on it and the insert should slide out... I had to tap on the top one and the bottom one before it came out. This was just the clutch side so far, I haven’t made to the throttle side yet...
@@airadaimagery692 Keep us posted, maybe some photos of the dimples if you are able. Thank you.
@@hankwojo check out this video th-cam.com/video/3HgkafCnkfU/w-d-xo.html
Great video, thanks for making it. I found it easier to just replace the bars.
New bars are always good :-)
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. Very helpful!
Glad it helped :-)
The INSERTS are removable. Remove the grips and there are two holes where the weights are pushed in and a tab pops into each hole. Depress both tabs while pulling on the weight and it will slide out.
Thanks. Yeah I've learned that since this video. I would still do it the same way though, as this retains the anti-vibe qualities and the resulting setup is stronger than using the standard expander bolts in regular bars. Not to say the bars are stronger, lol, but the handguards are rock solid ;-)
Will they slide out easy ?
Is this true for the 300L? I see theyre removable on the rally but i didnt see tabs on my 300L
Another fine video. Wish I had watched before getting my Cycra probend handguards with HCM. Will it be same procedure with them I assume?
Thanks again for the help.
Thanks. If the guards come with an M8 bolt and you want to use that instead of substituting an M6 bolt, then yes it would be the same I would think. Easiest way is to use an M6 bolt to fit the inserts, but it won't be as strong.
@@Scoottoots very kind of you to help and so quickly. Had these a week now and trying to get it done.
We shall see! Thanks again for the help.
I gotta say I find it kinda hilarious to go through this only to use the Zeta bolts supplied that look like aluminum. They are not, I tested them with a magnet so they're coated with something. God knows what they actually are as there's no grading or specs in the instruction or parts list about them. so I replaced them both with full thread ss grade 10.9 M8 of course so I didn't have to bother counter sinking. Added a couple appropriate sized ss washers inside the recess space in the bar ends as well. I share your train of thought completely in all of this... until it gets to using the supplied mystery hardware.
Not knowing the strength of fittings is an uneasy feeling, but I can tell you those Zeta Bolts are strong. I've used the same setup on another bike that crashed at some speed. The right handguard took the hardest hit before the bike bounced down the trail. The handguard rail was chewed up as expected, but the fitting didn't budge. And no, like you say, the bolts are not aluminum. Your setup sounds like it'll serve you well. Peace of mind :-)
@Scoot Toots Zeta is apparently Japanese owned AND manufactured... so they SHOULD be quality.👍 I've gotten Chinese hardware before that's heads rounded out at about 8 ft/lbs torque.😆 Pretty sure they made em outta smelted pop cans.
I'm sure there is some cost reason why Honda did the bars this way but it sure does make it a pain for us compared to doing it the usual way. But where there is a challenge, we riders find a way to prevail! Great job, John!
I guess the inserts help with the vibrations from the stroked engine. Just a bit odd that Honda tapped the threads to M6 rather than M8. But yes, there's always a way. Cheers Casey :-)
Thank you for the video. I was wondering if those handle bar inserts the factory put in could be pulled out completely so you could use the zeta expanders.
Thank you
Mike
I could tighten the bolt on the clutch side where the insert is recessed in, and no matter how hard I tightened, the insert did not move, so I doubt they can be removed with a slide hammer or any other method without extreme fuss.
Man, looks nice, I would have also put on some better grips, like some pillow top grips !
Yeah I likely will down the line. Easy enough to loosen and slide the guards out of the way for that. Softer grips would help with the vibration.
I did the same on my 300l. not too bad of a job. great video.
Thanks. They are extremely solid, so they'll do the trick.
How was it determined that an M6 bolt isn’t strong enough? I would think a M6 grade 12.9 or even 10.9 would be plenty strong.
Just my opinion. Also, on the clutch side (on mine at least) there is a recess as seen in the video. A good hit could then cause the bolt to bend in the unsupported length, moving the handguard out of position. Simple task to tap the thread for M8 for better strength. The other reason I chose to tap was aesthetic. The M8 bolt Zeta supplies is nicely finished and shaped to fit snugly into the countersunk handguard rail.
I tried drilling them but the inserts spun inside the handlebars. Spent a long time trying to hold and drill them. Finally tool a drift and pounded them back 2" inside the bars. So much easier.
I guess it varies across different bikes. Mine are super solid. That's a good solution for yours. Hopefully the anti-vibe qualities are unimpaired.
@@Scoottoots yes, i had to do something. I was getting nowhere
Great video. I was looking for this exact information.
Which Zeta handguards did you get? Do you have the Zeta model #?
I got the Zeta Drop Down Bend, Model # ZE72-0001. I have used this version before. They are very strong and the bend allows for better placement for good lever protection. Thanks :-)
Does the Zeta ZE72-0001 come with M8 bolts or do you have to aquire them separately?
NOW I see this video! I only JUST now finished doing this exact same thing!
I think that age, grey hair and years of experimenting led us both down the exact same path!😂👴🏻🇨🇦
Hehehe, yeah when you've been around long enough you can problem solve a bit easier ;-)
Useful Info..Thank you for the effort.
Cheers :-)
That is a great option for keeping the stock bars
Yeah I didn't want to upgrade the bars just yet, if at all, but wanted the guards installed right ;-)
Exactly what I needed to know! Thanks!!
Glad it helped :-)
any difference in vibration after removing the end weights? Or do the guards constitute a similar weight after the steel knobs have been thrown in the parts bin? Considering handguards for mine, and leaning toward just using a higher strength M6 screw into that interior piece and modding some bar weights (or the originals) to hang on the outside of those. I drill and tap stuff all the time, but I think it's pretty unlikely an M6 inside the bar end could take a load that wouldn't bend or rip the aluminum guard strap first. Of course anything can happen. I guess once you've drilled and tapped for 8 it'd be simple to drill the original end weights out to 8 to refit if necessary, so 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
My CB650F has end weights and internal weights, but there are no end weights on the crf300l handlebar. There are only internal weights which I left in place. The reason I chose to tap for an M8 screw was:
1.) It allowed me to use the stock screw from Zeta which is M8 and countersunk to fit flush into the recess on the handguard arm.
2.) The internal weight is recessed from the bar end on the clutch side, creating empty unsupported space around the screw. A good hit to the handguard will bend an M6 bolt much easier, creating an annoying bad fit.
Nice bike, it's a pity that we have only CRF250 Rally on our market.
Really? What market is that where the 300L is not available?
@@Scoottoots Russia) Strangely we can buy crf300 Rally (sorry, i mistyped 250 earlier), but crf300l is not available =/
I hope Honda will bring it us maybe later or next year.
@@NVK85 Yes I hope you get it next year in your area.
Looks great. Good info. Thanks! :)
Cheers :-)
How do you drill out perfectly straight without some type of guide?
When you're predrilling for the tap, the threaded hole that exists becomes your guide if you pay attention and feel your way as it starts.
I finally got my Rally last week.
Bought the Zeta handguards you recommended. Is there a trick to getting the bar ends weights off? I've been trying a Phillips screwdriver but it's in there extremely tight. Did you have to clamp the bar end weight somehow?
Gee, I'm uncertain what you mean. My bike is the standard L Model. I do not know if the Rally has a different setup. If you watched the video, you'll see how the standard L version is set up. If your bar weights are the same as in the video, then just follow the procedure I outline. I did not remove the weights. They are threaded for an M6 bolt. To use the heavier M8 bolt that comes with the guards, I drilled the threads out using the correct size for tapping to M8, then I tapped with an M8 tap. I also had to recess drill on one side as the video shows so the bolt will snug. Watch the video and see if what I just said makes sense for your model.
@@Scoottoots The Rally has these bar end weights attached with a Phillips screw. The non-Rally must not have them. I'm having a heck of time trying to remove them.
The folks at SR Moto say the same thing on their site:
soloracer.com/crf300lhndgrds.html
May have to cut the ends off with a hacksaw!
@@simonf.2504 I've never seen the Rally setup. The end weights in the standard version are bonded into the bar, with no end piece attached to them, though they are threaded. I wonder if your end weights in the Rally are screwed into the same inserts the standard version has and that are visible in the video. My only suggestion is NOT to use a Phillips screwdriver. The screws that look like a phillips head are not. They are JIS head screws. Honda does not use Phillips. JIS screwdrivers are available but you may have a hard time finding them locally and quick. Amazon sells them. The best ones are called Vessel JIS Drivers. They function also as an impact driver, so if you have a stubborn screw, you wack the and of the driver and it turns the driver 12° counterclockwise to break it loose. JIS drivers do not cam out like a phillips driver will when the screw is stubborn.
I checked the link you provided to soloracer. I couldn't see reference to the Rally version regarding the handguard install. As far as I can see they only talk about the Standard L version and their solution to drill and tap is the same procedure as in my video. BTW, if you can borrow an electric impact driver that has screwdriver bits, in a pinch try the phillips bit that comes with the impact driver. You'll have to brace the other end of the bar against a wall so you can push hard on the driver while triggering it. Might strip it, but then again it may just crack it loose. Like I say above, the screws are JIS, not Phillips.
@@Scoottoots I got referred to another TH-cam link:
th-cam.com/video/nMtPdvhLJUg/w-d-xo.html
It explained perfectly how to remove the bar weights and plugs. Was a bit of struggle but I got it done. So I used the Zeta's own expanding hardware in the now hollow tube and no drilling or tapping was required.
I just bought hand guards from T-Rex. I got the clutch side guard installed by cutting off 1/4" of their bar end insert. Not sure what to do with the throttle side at this point. I don't know if it would be better to cut off the bar end insert part they sent to avoid putting pressure on the Honda threaded bar end (and throttle return) or to drill out the end to get T-Rex's insert portion to not interfere with throttle return. T-Rex bar end attachment is about 14 mm wide (35/64" I think), which is a pretty big hole. Is it possible to cut the stock threaded bar end back about 1/2" or so? I can see the threads are pretty close to the bar end. Not sure of the best way to proceed with this problem.
Well, as you might guess my solution is to drill and tap so as to use the bolt supplied with most handguards directly into the new threading in the Honda bar inserts. That way the handguard is very secure and the anti-vibration inserts are still functional. I don't know what the T-Rex guards are like, but if you are wanting to use an expander sleeve/bolt combo as is usual on handguards, then I suppose you could use an appropriate diameter drill bit to drill back the inserts to give you room enough for the fitting you want to use. I'm commenting blind here, so what I said may not make sense as I can't picture your situation.
@@Scoottoots I don't know how to upload a photo of the part I'm talking about that attaches. When I snug it up against the throttle tube, there is no return to decelerate. I don't think the insert was hitting the rubber grip so I'm guessing I'll have to drill out a 14 mm hole in threaded bar end. Did you cut off any portion of the throttle tube to get clearance ?
@@bigd9281 It sounds like you have the hand guard attached to the bar but your throttle tube sticks on the return. If that's what you're saying, then the guard must be touching the throttle tube and/or the grip. And yes, I cut the throttle tube and grip back a bit so that the handlebar extends slightly beyond the grip and tube. That way the throttle has no chance of binding when the guards are tightened down securely. The photo at 4:24 shows that.
@@Scoottoots Thanks for that info, sorry I'm probably keeping you up late. How much did you cut the throttle tube back (1/2" or so?). I don't want to screw it up and have to buy a new one.
@@bigd9281 No worries, I'm just about to shut down though. Just examine the photo at 4:24 time in the video and you'll see I cut the grip and throttle tube back just enough so that the handlebar protrudes slightly beyond the grip and throttle tube by maybe 1.5mm to 2mm at the most. Only just enough so when you twist the throttle, the grip and tube cannot touch and bind against the newly installed handguard. I hope that makes sense and applies to your situation.
Is that m8x1.25?
Nevermind just saw your screenshot lol
Yes it is.
@@Scoottoots I just bought a drill bit type tap thingy for the job. Ordered those guards with the pro size plastic guards for my winter riding……was gonna be lazy and use m6 bolts, but my grandpa would say take the time to do it right
@@mrcla55yguy20 The M6 can be used but the the M8 is proper. Well strong enough and the stock bolt that comes with the guards looks best and fits snug in the attachment. Be sure to go slowly, a bit at a time, backing the tap out to clear the debris. They are brittle and can break easily if bullied in ;-)
@@Scoottoots thanks bro 🤙
Thanks a lot for the video !!
You're very welcome :-)
Awesome bud cheers 👍🏻
Thanks, and you're welcome :-)
Nope. Just buy good old Aussie Barkbusters. They come with the 6mm bolt and go on the standard bars in less than 10 minutes.
If you're happy with an M6 bolt just use an M6 with any make of handguards. The point here is I prefer the stronger M8 bolt that most all handguards use for a good reason. Big difference in size and strength. Pretty simple process to do this and you end up with a stronger set up.
@@Scoottoots actually, you only end up with more strength at that one point, not all over the setup. That’s why it’s isn’t of much value. The force to shear half decent 6mm stainless bolts is going to completely crush the aluminium frames anyway. So, yes, I’m happy with the 6mm as were the Barkbusters engineers, obviously.
Nah, the bends in the guards create great strength at the angle the hit would occur, especially the Zeta drop bend design. That's why I choose it. An M6 bolt properly snugged up would likely be fine in most instances though most manufacturers disagree. But here, one bar has a recess before the insert starts. That unsupported bolt length can compromise an M6, not necessarily to sheer it, but leverage in a hit will bend it at that point. One could drill out a spacer to keep the length of the bolt snug, but that would likely be more work than drilling and tapping for an M8. Perhaps not all 300L's have this recess, but mine does, and when given an option I'd rather take the cleanest route to a proper fitting. The resulting setup is extremely strong. No compromise :-)
@@Scoottoots nope. Nothing near the shear strength of a decent 6mm bolt. The only way a 6mm is going to break before those aluminium bars give way is if it is overstressed by over torquing when tightening using a tool with too much leverage. This leaves it in a state of high stress where even a bump can be the straw that breaks it's back. Then it won't shear. It will have an elastic failure at 0 degrees to the shaft. Looks similar when you don't know what you are looking at, but quite different under magnification.
@@theoriginalEmuman You didn't read my comment. I didn't say it would shear the bolt. I said "not necessarily to shear" the bolt but bend it in the unsupported space. Once bent by the leveraged impact, the guard is compromised. Pretty easy to bend an unsupported length of an M6. Anyway, we're getting too picky here I think. You have a setup you're happy with, and I have shared a setup that works well with the 300L bar inserts, and is stronger than the common method of using expander bolts in ordinary bars. Drilling and tapping is not rocket science, nor is it an onerous task.
LIESSSSSSSS!!!!!!!! You do not need a drill and tap me and my dad just did this project on our 2023 Crf 300L, Honda puts a little pre made nut inside the handle bar for you to connect hand guards, there should be no reason to use a drill and tap, all you need to do is find one of the bolts in your bag it came with (i used acerbis but that doesn’t matter, when i went to home depot it was a M6 1.0. I promise you all you have to do is slice the end of te rubber handle off and even the plastic insert in the grip so ir doesn’t rub your washer against the throttle/ grip and smack em on i never drilled out that bolt ( even though i was 100% going to). These are not instructions on how to install it merely just a trick of the trade. Have fun and just keep trying
LOL, by the time it takes you to go to Home Depot to find an M6 bolt with the correct countersinking to match the handguards for a neat flush finish, you could have had it complete -- the right way. It took me 20 minutes to use the proper Zeta supplied M8 bolt that is matched to the countersunk handguard rail. The Zeta handguards are exceptionally strong and they use an M8 bolt for good reasons. The rail doesn't budge out of position in crashes. There are lots of inferior ways to do a task. Your choice.
I just bought pro taper risers and new bars.... fuck this shit, I'll do it the right way.
The right way? LOL. Takes a lot longer and cost a lot more to install risers, new bars, and handguards, than it does to drill and tap the stock bars, or just remove the inserts. The stock bars are perfectly fine. And risers? Most people install them because they don't know how to stand. They think they should be standing upright.
@@Scoottoots Exactly, I'll probably install new bars someday but I know I need handguards now and this is the way I'll be going. Thanks for taking the time to detail this part, alot of other vids mention it but I wanted to see exactly what's inside the stock bars and appreciate it!
@@pooserj Thanks John. Even if you swap bars down the line it's always good fun to do stuff like this, and at least for me, it provides an extremely solid mount for the hand guards. So far I'm finding the stock bars are fine. One less expense :-)
Why would you need new bars AND risers?🤔 Are you 7' tall? Just buy high bars.🤷 Majority of people who put risers on bikes don't know how to stand on a bike. You don't literally stand.😅 Do it right though.👍😂
I discovered this problem last week. It really pissed me off. I went and bought an M6 bolt. If you think your bike's 300lb weight can sheer an M6 bolt you are crazy! Just put an M6 in there and be done with it. You obviously aren't an engineer. It would take more than a ton (2,000lbs) of force to sheer that M6 bolt. Stop being stupid. People , hello people,. just put an M6 in there and be done with it. I looped my CRF300L on a very steep incline 4 days ago. That crash bend the rear tail light assembly got clumps of dirt in the crash guards (after-maket crash guards) and a little dirt up on the clutch lever because that is the side it fell on. I was such a steep incline I could barely pick the bike up. I thought I was going to have to call a friend to help me get it up. My handguard bolts didn't break. It is ridiculous to think you are going to shear off an M6 bolt in the location that bolt is in. How in the hell is 2,500 lbs of force going to be applied radially along the bolts axis to shear that bolt. STOP BEING RETARDED! Put an M6 in there!
What a ridiculous comment! You're a real keyboard warrior aren't you? If you actually watched and listened you would know I did not say the M6 would shear off. Of course it would not shear off. I said it wasn't strong enough. If you couldn't figure it out for yourself, that is due to the recess between the end of the bar and the beginning of the female threads on the clutch side, the M6 in a hard impact may bend in the free space. An M8 bolt will not allow that. Small point perhaps, but then there is no chance of a misaligned handguard rail at the bar end after a crash. The other reason I did it the 'correct' way is so I could use the Zeta M8 countersunk bolt for a clean smooth finish. Do as you like. I prefer to do it right. For anyone who knows how to handle tools, drilling and tapping is a quick easy task.