Thanks for showing. So much for the new engineers, so why they put something that dose not work? Can you put in fresh grease with out taking a part .Taking a neutral plug out what you showed earlier through that hole ,I am just thinking. I am not a mechanic.
I drilled a small hole in the case above the split line and filled it with Marvel Mystery Oil. Plugged the hole with some epoxy. The excess oil came out through the shaft ends, and it's been working good ever since. Before I did this it was hard to shift and sticky. Smooth now.
I just opened mine up and had all that crap in it. it's a pain it the ass to get out but I found that white spirit helped alot to break down the bentonite working with a brush and then a jet wash worked well for me I refilled mine with swivel hub grease
I have a commercial Gravely 36" walk behind mower. It has a Peerless H700-079 that is hard to engage reverse. It also skips in and out of reverse. Shift lever needs to be held at the end point of the shift slot in order for it to do anything. All 5 forward gears work great. Before I open the transmission up, what can I expect? Some racers use 90W gear oil. What do you think? Thank you for the video and help.
I have a 2006 craftsman lt3000 with a 6 speed peerless/tecumseh in it, not sure if bentonite was used in it. It has been owned by my family its entire life and its never had transmission problems so the transmission hasn't been opened.
Anything that would prevent the shift rod from sliding out of the top half of the case? No star washer, removed ball/spring. Can’t get shift fork to turn at all or come out of the case. Original issue was hard to shift and eventually broke drive chain. Have soaked and tapped with brass hammer for a long time. Shift rod appears seized to case. Is heat a good idea? Something I’m missing?
And that stuff is expensive to buy $15 for 8 oz. I used it for an MTD for/rev single speed trans rebuild. I thought about using bearing grease mixed with some gear oil but this was for a church and didn't want to mess up and have it fail again.
The simplified answer is to return the Bentonite to the consistency of grease that will flow. Certain degrees of separation will require different amounts of thinning agent like Diesel or Kerosene. Zip~
I'm in the process of trying to open up one of these trans axles. All bolts are out besides the hex bolt that must have been snapped by previous owner. Also has some type of silicone between the cases? Is this typical? Muat the hex bolt be removed to seperate case? Appreciate any response
It definitely is Wade. When people ask me if it's worth it to purchase Pro Grade or Commercial over Prosumer, I always tell them make the investment in Commercial now. It'll always save you in the long run. Zip~
Great video! I have a JD 170 with a 5 speed transaxle that gears are beging to stick. Where would be the best location to tap into the casing to add some diesel and what size hole? Thanks for opening my eyes to Bentonite.
Your best bet is to coat a 1/4" drill bit with grease (to catch the metal shavings and keep them from entering the gear box. Choose a spot you can access without having to remove anything and that is on a flat surface away from any protrusions on the case (flat surface). I usually do this on the top of the transaxle when I have them out, but anywhere is fine. Then you'll want to either get a rubber plug or tap the hole (with grease packed in the tap flutes to catch shavings) and install a bolt. Any size hole is fine really, so long as you can plug it in some form or fashion. I hope this helps! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga that's nice so then that'd be the same for a fill hole And what about the pressurized transmissions do you have any of those cause i didn't see no fill hole plug or a drain hole plug on my new old craftsmen I'm guessing it's a 1993 model from the body and pull choke lever My 1996 craftsmen doesn't have the pull choke lever just a low and fast speed lever makes me wonder if the transmissions are the same or are they different I've got another craftsmen transmission to just sitting probably the same as the used one I just got cause they both have the pull choke lever and that one use to have a twin Briggs engine on it but the guy ran it out of oil so I gave the engine away And now I should have kept that locked up engine cause that's what's on my new old craftsmen I just got now the same engine I got another broken engine its fixable if i had the single Briggs parts but i don't
What do you recommend for replacing the grease in the transaxle?? Will 90 weight gear lube work ok!!! When i opened my transaxle it was packed with thick wheel bearing consistency grease! Is the grease supposed to be liquid?????
The grease should flow. The "Bentonite" in the trans axles from the factory tends to separate over time which allows the oil to leak out of the unsealed case, leaving a thick clay like substance behind. I would replace it with a good thin grease that will flow. Using gear oil will only result in the oil leaking out because as I stated, the case isn't a sealed unit. Zip~
there is a bolt through the middle area that you pointed out that helps hold the case together.i wonder if you remove that bolt,which is on the top,could a light synthetic oil or penetrating oil in small amount(s) be dripped into the gear box to help rejuvenate the gear lube/tar so it can be done while tractor is still in 1 piece.since i do not see a drain plug,would this be an option,''if'' you can even access that bolt.***as a note,i wonder if you could drill and tap the bottom of casing some place,to add a drain plug if none exists.some have a safety switch and removing it you may be able to add lube? anyway,nice vid sir..as usual...thanks.
Po Dunk....Adding an access hole/plug would be easy and ideal. I use Diesel, as it seems to agree with the Bentonite and mix right in more readily than anything else I've tried. If you followed the series on this trans-axle, you will see me mixing diesel with the goop in there. It bonds well and keeps the Bentonite more viscus than in its degraded form. I typically do this on all of these Peerless/Tecumseh trans-axles that come in. Being that the case has no gasket or seals anywhere, you will get a little oozing from the axles where they meet up with the case, but that just tells you things are well lubricated within the case. If your battery is located atop the trans-axle, you can remove that and have easy access to installing an oiler of sorts. Just load up the tap with axle grease to catch the chips as it cuts the threads and use a shop vac on the newly tapped hole afterward for added assurance that there are no or little fragments of aluminum dropping into the cast. BUT...if a few get in there, don't stress it. All of the gears are steel, so they'll eat those little bits easily enough without doing any damage. Also load up the drill bit with grease. I add around 5-6 ounces of Diesel (you can substitute transmission fluid or Kerosene, but they don't seem to mix in with the Bentonite as well as the Diesel does. Best of luck on your venture and let us know how it turns out! Cheers Po Dunk! Zip~
It will just weep at the axles a little with doing nothing but reassembling I've heard but not from personal experience. The fitment is pretty close as is, and so long as you don't FILL up the gear case, I don't think you'll experience a lot of leaking. Where it will leak will be between the bushings ans axle it self. Sealing that up without an actual seal will be tricky. But as I said, we're talking maybe a drop of oil will squeeze out every once in a great while. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thanks bud I never even thought about the axles. If it's not much which is what I'm hoping for, it has to be better than this grease. Thanks again!
This would explain why I can not see any oil in the transmission. I pulled that black plug out, took a zip tie and put it in the hole until it bottomed out. Perhaps 1/8 inch or so of oil on the tip. And it smelled like old burnt motor oil. This Murray is one of those Hydro types. I was able to get to the transmission plug fairly easy. But to get to the pump I have to take off the pulley and fan. And it is Rusted up. Took me 4 hours of talking to, beating on and 1/2 can of P.B. blaster to get the nut off. This may be a bad omen . A bad sign. The other problem there is a lever under the seat. It is suppose to release the transmission. That way you call roll the mower around. But it does not work. I hope the new oil / fluid will free it up. But I doubt it.
Hey Zippo, I have a Toro wheel horse 71223 with a peerless transaxle model MST 205-509, have some shifting issues from 2nd to 3rd gear wont go in or decided it will pop into gear 2 minutes after shifting, and more dangerously breaks sometimes stop and sometimes do not, they have been adjusted several times, I am told that the breaks indeterminacy is directly related to something in the transaxle, is that indeed true? what needs to be done to get these issues fixed? I hear some talk here about drilling a port hole and adding some diesel fuel to get the lube going again, plugging the hole, sound like nothing to loose by doing that, can you also give me some guidance as to best place to drill the hole, approximately how much diesel to add etc. Thank, much appreciated!
Adding diesel or a light oil will help matters. The Bentonite used is actually a clay based manufactured lubricant that separates from the other ingredients and turns back into clay. Drilling in a clean flat open area behind the gear selector should work. Pack the drill bit with axle grease to capture the chips as you're drilling to keep particles from entering the tans-axle. Add about 2 cups (8 ounces) of your desired thinning agent and while you're at it, lubricate all moving parts like the shift lever shaft and linkages as well as the pivot points for the brake arm. The typical cause of your issue is the gears are sticking to one another due to the poor quality grease used i the housings. Keep me posted! Zip~
There is no real data for the amount, but I like for there to be enough that when you operate the transaxle it flows throughout. Sorry I don't have an exact amount, but none of the service bulletins I have read specify. Zip~
Scrape most of it out, spray it with WD40 and brush until all of it loses its sticky form, then pressure wash it... Theres no other way to get that nasty shit out of there. WD40 disolves grease by far the best and doesnt let it stick again
That was a real hit Zippo,as I've been waiting for the differential gears from sears,i had no idea the unit was made without half the bearings in it,but after watching your video's and tearing the thing down i find no roller bearings in it,since this unit didn't come with the bearings the manual shows no product # you say there are a ton of web sites with the info so far i haven't been able to fine them,i did fine a number on a unit that has the bearings and ordered them,that's the way i did it,if and when i do find a product # for that bearing I'll let everyone know it amazes me a company would put axle roller bearings in some and not all,tho they are a money saver,the bearings are expensive or at least the ones i ordered are,hopefully they fit,Thanks anyway Zippo as a guy once said see ya in the funny papers.
My apologies if you thought that I am unwilling to help Cotton. Truth be told, I do a lot of helping through my videos. When a specific part is needed, the numbers off the assembly and/or machine are what I would use to locate parts for you. Just like you can do. You're wanting parts not intended for your particular application, which opens a whole new can of worms that involves a lot of searching and time as well as the uncertainty that anything I may have come up with may not work, which puts the burden on me. I will give you some sound advice though. With the existing oil lite bearings, take exact measurements of the inside diameter and outside diameter and search for a comparably sized needle bearing. Look at bearing companies instead of direct parts for the transmission. For example, MI (Motion Industries) or BOCA Bearing or the like. To further delve into what you were asking me for, there are many variables, that without the transmission in my hands, would be impossible for me to help you with. I gave you the short answer because I am a busy man. I'm now taking the time to further explain why I don't make it a habit of simply providing part numbers. As I mentioned, there is the very real possibility that the numbers I may give would be incorrect, and cause you wasted money and time as well as my reputation. Variables between similar transmissions are as per the manufacturers specifications. This can be as simple as needing a disc type brake pad instead of a rectangle, or, as you've discovered, needle bearings vs. oil lite bearings/bushings, seals or no seals, limited slip vs positive traction capable, 5 speed vs. 6 speed. C clip axles vs. bolted and the list certainly goes on and on. What you asked me for, I don't provide, not because I'm an ass hat, but because there is too large a margin for error. Best of luck. Zip~
+Love2boat92 The Peerless hydrostatic transmissions? Not sure, but I know there's no filter or drain/fill plug on the earlier ones. Disposable....engineered to fail so you'll have to buy an entirely new unit. BS in a box. lol
Good info to know. I have had alot of these apart for racing purposes, and always assumed it was grease from the factory. I'm tempted to try some 00 grease and see how they like it, vs gear oil leaking everywhere.
@@ZippoVarga I've also just learned because the bentonite grease is clay based, it will not mix well with regular soap based grease, like the 00, or gear lube. So if anyone tries this make sure to get rid of all bentonite grease first.
dang...I pulled one of these apart recently and assumed that it was originally grease! Would never have thought that it was a liquid that thickened over time.
Bentonite is a type of clay. It was mixed with a petroleum product to turn it into something like grease, but over time, the two components separate, leaving the clay to bind things up. Zip~
I think it is grease cause I had a tube of grease and it smelled just the same and felt the same on my hands and fingers Plus in older stuff like those with gears usually were packed with grease before installing them in new Like the spindles are pumped with white grease but I use wet oil in mine. because the grease fresh or old gets worked to side the grease does still work good For it to work better it would need alot more than that little bit that's in there
What a mess. I'd call that peanut butter.... good idea with adding some diesel to that to keep it fluid. Good stuff zippo, hope you are feeling well bud.
+Craig Arndt Thanks Craig! Hanging in there. The surgery didn't keep me down for long fortunately. Hope all is well on your end as well! Cheers my good Man! Zip~
Way back when I was 14-15yo I repowered a old rear engine Hahn-Eclipse with a vertical shaft Honda off of a Self-propelled walk behind mower. The H-E has a similar peerless trans as this. The wheel shaft sleeves had to be replaced with new one the guys at the repair shop fabbed up themselves. What had happened was the Bronze bushings had worn completely through and ruined the shaft sleeves. What they did as far as lubricant. 90wt gear oil. Now 14 years later the then used engine I had swapped onto this H-E mower, is now giving up. Bad knock like it wants to throw the rod. Mom was wanting to simply junk the tractor but I said no. I'm thinking I'll swap a engine on there this time with electric start. Going to look into maybe going with a brand new one from Small Engine Warehouse, that you talked about in your Grasshopper Vanguard swap videos.
+Indianahick87 Adding that gear oil is probably the best thing you could have done for the transmission Hick. The guys at SEW are pretty helpful, and they don't have just this years engine offerings. They have NOS engines that you can get at a discount from a 2015-1016 engine. Not to mention, Briggs are now manufactured over seas...grrr...so yeah...there's that too. lol Cheers!! Zip~
+ZippoVarga Seems everything is getting moved over seas. I'm going to check my options on the engines. Going to wait til summer though. Garage needs to be cleaned out to make some elbow room.
Hey Zippo I have a Toro 10-32 with a peerless 5 speed it's starting to smoke out of the left side. Could it be just seepage or is it possible a bearing starting to fail?
Smoking? My guess is the brake is stuck and over heating. Nothing should be smoking at all. If it's the brake, you'll need to lubricate and free up the brake. If it's the actual axle, check that there isn't excessive wear on the case. If there is, the bushing has worn through and you're not riding on the case and unfortunately, the fix is to replace it. Fingers Crossed it's just the brake hanging up. Zip~
just watch the video and i am wondering about the goop! i am sure i have the peerless 920 out of my 1986 Simplicity i restored it and dropped the trans axle pulled of the yellow cap and inserted a small rod into the case to see if it had oil/greese and nothing came out so i squeezed 90w synthetic into it i think 6oz per my online pdf . its all together now but it now leaks at the axle shaft. i guess i wasn't supposed to put gear oil. someone tell me what i need to do?
Ride it and go through the gears. The oil will mix with the Bentonite, but it will take time. When the oil stops weeping out of the axle bushings, it's time to add more. These are not sealed units, so they will leak, but in time, the gear oil will blend with the Bentonite. Good luck! Zip~
I would lean towards a thicker lithium grease in lieu of gear oil. These trans-axles don't have seals or gaskets, so the gear oil will leak out. I also install grease zerks in the upper case so that additional lithium grease can be added as needed. Just food for thought. Cheers Gamer! Zip~
Finally getting around to servicing my transaxle and it's probably going to end up finally getting opened when I get back to my garage today, I'm either going to try and put seals in it, or put in some lithium grease, after getting the bentonite out and cleaning everything of course
Did you replace with diff oil?? Im working on a transaxle out of a craftsman mower . When I opened it , it was packed with thick grease. Was it liquid at one time? I have it cleaned up and ready to put together but dont know what lube to put back in it!!!????
This particular transaxle design was on a John Deere riding mower from the late 1990's. But the internals are basically the same on dozens of models spanning many years from Cheap MTD, some AYP, Box Store mowers etc. Knowing your axle model number and/or mower model number is your best bet if you're looking for a direct replacement. Different manufacturers specified mounting specifics, but the internals were almost always the same. Some had bearings and seals, others had bushings and no seals. The more information you give me the better I can answer your question Tom. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga iv got a jd 180 with the transmission slipping in higher gears. Kind of a pulse in a sense. Looking to replace it, instead of cleaning that crap and finding I need shift forks or whatever wears those 180s out. What should I pay for a used drop in replacement.? 111,112,130,160,170,180?
Diluting the Bentonite with Diesel will keep the clay Bentonite and more viscus liquids bonded. With its age and the budget I was afforded, this was the option the owner went with. I do what's asked of me, but I always suggest the alternatives. With no seals to speak of in these trans-axles, you can't replace the Bentonite with gear oil. I also install a Zerk in the top of the cases for the owners to add a thin lithium grease when things start to get sticky. Cheers! Zip~
+Sears Suburban Backyard Tractor Club With no actual seals on the transmission and not even a gasket between the top and bottom case, they would have to completely re-think their design, seal it up and put gaskets everywhere instead of dust shields and plugs. They really went as cheaply as they could with these. I'll thin out the Bentonite a bit, replace worn parts and throw it back into service. Cheers Suburban! Zip~
+Sears Suburban Backyard Tractor Club Because if they built them to last people wouldn't buy them, the people buying these machines want cheap crap they don't want to spend any money. So these companies cheap out on everything. My old Craftsman garden tractor from 1988 actually had 30 weight gear oil in the transaxle, it had a drain/fill plug. The one I have now wasn't the entry level cheap model, yet it is nothing near the quality of my first one. The transaxle in the one I have now whines really bad just moving itself around its beyond horrible. I've had the machine for about 5-1/2 years and I don't see it lasting much longer at the rate its going LOL. The next machine I get will NOT be from Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. it will be purchased from a dealer...and it won't be an entry level machine or even close LOL.
The Peerless 910 has the Bentonite lube in it. The Peerless MTS 206-545C uses regular 80W90 gear oil. If you look at the casings and the layout they are quite similar. Is there a reason why the 910 should not take regular 80W90 gear oil?
There are no seals. Just plugs. So the lube in the case needs to have a binding agent to prevent the loss of the lube (gear oil). Using standard grease cut down with a light oil, kerosene or diesel will not separate like the Bentonite and will stay mainly in the case, although, there will be some weeping from the plugs, axles and possibly the brake disc shaft. You could use an RTV silicone to help seal the case, but expect some seepage if the mixture is too thin. Zip~
I thought it was just black grease in my one used one the transmission gear teeth were broken and the transmission itself was to cheap to be worth fixing so i didn't fix it I could have but it just wasn't worth it
Zippo can you send me the part number for the roller bearing for the axle,they don't put them in all the units,but as you know the case will accept them,i'm waiting for parts now,it's a peerless 930
The Diesel or Kerosene breaks down the Bentonite and makes it more viscus, so it will flow better. But eventually, it will separate from the thinner again. Bentonite is, I believe, a type of clay. Removing all of it and putting in a heavy gear oil mixed with a light grease would be opportune. Cheers! Zip~
by bulk its the least expensive product and keeps cost per unit down..... and they don't have to put real seals in it .......... and on the least expensive Transaxle they leave out the roller wheel bearings .......... but rounded shift keys keep cash flow for mower shops right zippo
+flyinbiker2001 Yep, the shift keys in this one are slightly rounded. I've got a few lying around I'll swap in there after a good bath and inspection of the drive gear that powers the axle. At least they're simple enough to work on. Thanks for stoppin in Biker! Cheers!! Zip~
No big deal,i'm trying to drill them out ,but 3 of the 16 that hold the cover together broke off at the back of the unit,of the 2 holding the brake on the longer one with the spacer broke ,thanks for getting back with me.
Steel bolts in Aluminum or Magnesium is always a problem. The next time you are presented with it, using a catalyst penetrating oil like PB Blaster and letting things soak for a good 24 hours, then using an impact driver, whether air, or mechanical, will help break the bond that's caused by oxidation. Just putting a wrench on the bolts is a guaranteed way to break fittings nearly every time. It's the preventative measures you take before you put a wrench to them that will make a difference. Zip~
You don't. There are no seals on this transaxle, so it's grease only. Use a quality grease and thin it out with either diesel or kerosene until it's the consistency of soft butter so that it will flow, but not so thin that it's more like gear oil. Zip~
What are you going to refill the transmission with?? Personally I oil fill them it weeps a bit around the axles, since there's not much of a seal but it works pretty good.
+ARednecksLife I'll liquefy the Bentonite by cutting it down with either a lighter oil or Diesel or Kerosene until it is no longer stiff. As the transmission is used it warms up, which will aid in keeping the internals lubricated without too much weeping from the unsealed unit. Just another testament to the "designed to fail" guys...no gaskets or seals to keep the dirt out. Just plugs and grommets. The guys who convert these into swampers seal them up with a lot of form a gasket and or RTV and they fill them with synthetic gear oil. Between the axle bearing and bushing/guides, they will pack them tight with heavy marine axle grease and to my surprise, these Peerless hold up relatively well. But they DO take some attention before subjecting them to the abuse. Cheers!! Zip~
+tractorhead04 I REALLY don't like working on these transmissions, but unfortunately, they're the most common to come into the shop. Designed to fail right from the factory. Cheers my good man! Zip~
I’ve watched & listen to all kinds of videos about how to repair Tecumseh, Peerless Transaxles & none of them really show how to put the gears & shift washers back the on the shafts. Please show how this is done if you are going to make a video on how to repair a Transaxle show how the gears face & which way the washers go on if you people can’t do this, then don’t make a video on how to repair a Transaxle.
Wow. Ok. This video has helped many with their trans-axles Gilbert. Because it didn't address your specific issue doesn't discount its need. Look at the washers.....They will tell you (by way of their wear patterns) as to how they go back on and please, stop whining and use a little common sense. Zip~
Thanks for showing. So much for the new engineers, so why they put something that dose not work? Can you put in fresh grease with out taking a part .Taking a neutral plug out what you showed earlier through that hole ,I am just thinking. I am not a mechanic.
I drilled a small hole in the case above the split line and filled it with Marvel Mystery Oil. Plugged the hole with some epoxy. The excess oil came out through the shaft ends, and it's been working good ever since. Before I did this it was hard to shift and sticky. Smooth now.
Nice work! Yep, after they get some age in them, the Bentonite separates from the base thinning oil. Marvel will do the trick! Cheers! Zip~
My mower is all of a sudden leaking oil from one of the shaft ends.. you sayin that’s no issue?
@@ZippoVargaI did the exact same thing.. works great now..
I just opened mine up and had all that crap in it. it's a pain it the ass to get out but I found that white spirit helped alot to break down the bentonite working with a brush and then a jet wash worked well for me I refilled mine with swivel hub grease
I reworked my old black grease onto the gears then pumped a little engine oil in and its doing good
Oh god. As it turns out, my Ford YT-16 has a 801-020B....and it's ticking. Shifts fine and runs pretty smooth....
Perhaps use John Deere 00 Corn Head Grease or Snapper Mower 00 grease. The JD grease is semi solid when not working and liquid once it starts working.
Great suggestion!
Dont get around any HOMOS and tell them you have Corn Head Grease they will be running after you in their hi heels
I have a commercial Gravely 36" walk behind mower. It has a Peerless H700-079 that is hard to engage reverse. It also skips in and out of reverse. Shift lever needs to be held at the end point of the shift slot in order for it to do anything. All 5 forward gears work great. Before I open the transmission up, what can I expect? Some racers use 90W gear oil. What do you think? Thank you for the video and help.
I have a 2006 craftsman lt3000 with a 6 speed peerless/tecumseh in it, not sure if bentonite was used in it. It has been owned by my family its entire life and its never had transmission problems so the transmission hasn't been opened.
Anything that would prevent the shift rod from sliding out of the top half of the case? No star washer, removed ball/spring. Can’t get shift fork to turn at all or come out of the case. Original issue was hard to shift and eventually broke drive chain. Have soaked and tapped with brass hammer for a long time. Shift rod appears seized to case. Is heat a good idea? Something I’m missing?
And that stuff is expensive to buy $15 for 8 oz. I used it for an MTD for/rev single speed trans rebuild. I thought about using bearing grease mixed with some gear oil but this was for a church and didn't want to mess up and have it fail again.
So, what would you guess the ratio of diesel to add
The simplified answer is to return the Bentonite to the consistency of grease that will flow. Certain degrees of separation will require different amounts of thinning agent like Diesel or Kerosene. Zip~
What else would you suggest?
I'm in the process of trying to open up one of these trans axles. All bolts are out besides the hex bolt that must have been snapped by previous owner. Also has some type of silicone between the cases? Is this typical? Muat the hex bolt be removed to seperate case? Appreciate any response
My peerless is giving up now---25 years later on a Scag walk behind. It's been great. Maybe the pro stuff is different?
It definitely is Wade. When people ask me if it's worth it to purchase Pro Grade or Commercial over Prosumer, I always tell them make the investment in Commercial now. It'll always save you in the long run. Zip~
Great video! I have a JD 170 with a 5 speed transaxle that gears are beging to stick. Where would be the best location to tap into the casing to add some diesel and what size hole? Thanks for opening my eyes to Bentonite.
Your best bet is to coat a 1/4" drill bit with grease (to catch the metal shavings and keep them from entering the gear box. Choose a spot you can access without having to remove anything and that is on a flat surface away from any protrusions on the case (flat surface). I usually do this on the top of the transaxle when I have them out, but anywhere is fine. Then you'll want to either get a rubber plug or tap the hole (with grease packed in the tap flutes to catch shavings) and install a bolt. Any size hole is fine really, so long as you can plug it in some form or fashion. I hope this helps! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Thanks Zippo. I'll drill and tap for easy access. I'll make sure to use plenty of grease on both for shavings. Thanks again.
@@ZippoVarga that's nice so then that'd be the same for a fill hole
And what about the pressurized transmissions do you have any of those cause i didn't see no fill hole plug or a drain hole plug on my new old craftsmen I'm guessing it's a 1993 model from the body and pull choke lever
My 1996 craftsmen doesn't have the pull choke lever just a low and fast speed lever makes me wonder if the transmissions are the same or are they different I've got another craftsmen transmission to just sitting probably the same as the used one I just got cause they both have the pull choke lever and that one use to have a twin Briggs engine on it but the guy ran it out of oil so I gave the engine away
And now I should have kept that locked up engine cause that's what's on my new old craftsmen I just got now the same engine I got another broken engine its fixable if i had the single Briggs parts but i don't
What do you recommend for replacing the grease in the transaxle?? Will 90 weight gear lube work ok!!! When i opened my transaxle it was packed with thick wheel bearing consistency grease! Is the grease supposed to be liquid?????
The grease should flow. The "Bentonite" in the trans axles from the factory tends to separate over time which allows the oil to leak out of the unsealed case, leaving a thick clay like substance behind. I would replace it with a good thin grease that will flow. Using gear oil will only result in the oil leaking out because as I stated, the case isn't a sealed unit. Zip~
there is a bolt through the middle area that you pointed out that helps hold the case together.i wonder if you remove that bolt,which is on the top,could a light synthetic oil or penetrating oil in small amount(s) be dripped into the gear box to help rejuvenate the gear lube/tar so it can be done while tractor is still in 1 piece.since i do not see a drain plug,would this be an option,''if'' you can even access that bolt.***as a note,i wonder if you could drill and tap the bottom of casing some place,to add a drain plug if none exists.some have a safety switch and removing it you may be able to add lube? anyway,nice vid sir..as usual...thanks.
Po Dunk....Adding an access hole/plug would be easy and ideal. I use Diesel, as it seems to agree with the Bentonite and mix right in more readily than anything else I've tried. If you followed the series on this trans-axle, you will see me mixing diesel with the goop in there. It bonds well and keeps the Bentonite more viscus than in its degraded form. I typically do this on all of these Peerless/Tecumseh trans-axles that come in. Being that the case has no gasket or seals anywhere, you will get a little oozing from the axles where they meet up with the case, but that just tells you things are well lubricated within the case. If your battery is located atop the trans-axle, you can remove that and have easy access to installing an oiler of sorts. Just load up the tap with axle grease to catch the chips as it cuts the threads and use a shop vac on the newly tapped hole afterward for added assurance that there are no or little fragments of aluminum dropping into the cast. BUT...if a few get in there, don't stress it. All of the gears are steel, so they'll eat those little bits easily enough without doing any damage. Also load up the drill bit with grease. I add around 5-6 ounces of Diesel (you can substitute transmission fluid or Kerosene, but they don't seem to mix in with the Bentonite as well as the Diesel does. Best of luck on your venture and let us know how it turns out! Cheers Po Dunk! Zip~
Can you use cork gasket and some rtv to seal it up? I have mine all apart now and was just going to add some 85-90w and see if that works. Opinions?
It will just weep at the axles a little with doing nothing but reassembling I've heard but not from personal experience. The fitment is pretty close as is, and so long as you don't FILL up the gear case, I don't think you'll experience a lot of leaking. Where it will leak will be between the bushings ans axle it self. Sealing that up without an actual seal will be tricky. But as I said, we're talking maybe a drop of oil will squeeze out every once in a great while. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thanks bud I never even thought about the axles. If it's not much which is what I'm hoping for, it has to be better than this grease. Thanks again!
This would explain why I can not see any oil in the transmission. I pulled that black plug out, took a zip tie and put it in the hole until it bottomed out. Perhaps 1/8 inch or so of oil on the tip. And it smelled like old burnt motor oil. This Murray is one of those Hydro types. I was able to get to the transmission plug fairly easy. But to get to the pump I have to take off the pulley and fan. And it is Rusted up. Took me 4 hours of talking to, beating on and 1/2 can of P.B. blaster to get the nut off. This may be a bad omen . A bad sign. The other problem there is a lever under the seat. It is suppose to release the transmission. That way you call roll the mower around. But it does not work. I hope the new oil / fluid will free it up. But I doubt it.
Hey Zippo, I have a Toro wheel horse 71223 with a peerless transaxle model MST 205-509, have some shifting issues from 2nd to 3rd gear wont go in or decided it will pop into gear 2 minutes after shifting, and more dangerously breaks sometimes stop and sometimes do not, they have been adjusted several times, I am told that the breaks indeterminacy is directly related to something in the transaxle, is that indeed true? what needs to be done to get these issues fixed? I hear some talk here about drilling a port hole and adding some diesel fuel to get the lube going again, plugging the hole, sound like nothing to loose by doing that, can you also give me some guidance as to best place to drill the hole, approximately how much diesel to add etc. Thank, much appreciated!
Adding diesel or a light oil will help matters. The Bentonite used is actually a clay based manufactured lubricant that separates from the other ingredients and turns back into clay. Drilling in a clean flat open area behind the gear selector should work. Pack the drill bit with axle grease to capture the chips as you're drilling to keep particles from entering the tans-axle. Add about 2 cups (8 ounces) of your desired thinning agent and while you're at it, lubricate all moving parts like the shift lever shaft and linkages as well as the pivot points for the brake arm. The typical cause of your issue is the gears are sticking to one another due to the poor quality grease used i the housings. Keep me posted! Zip~
How much Flow Grese does the transaxle take?
There is no real data for the amount, but I like for there to be enough that when you operate the transaxle it flows throughout. Sorry I don't have an exact amount, but none of the service bulletins I have read specify. Zip~
I just cleaned out my first transaxle... And when you mix that horride substance with fuel it just stains you...
Scrape most of it out, spray it with WD40 and brush until all of it loses its sticky form, then pressure wash it... Theres no other way to get that nasty shit out of there.
WD40 disolves grease by far the best and doesnt let it stick again
That was a real hit Zippo,as I've been waiting for the differential gears from sears,i had no idea the unit was made without half the bearings in it,but after watching your video's and tearing the thing down i find no roller bearings in it,since this unit didn't come with the bearings the manual shows no product # you say there are a ton of web sites with the info so far i haven't been able to fine them,i did fine a number on a unit that has the bearings and ordered them,that's the way i did it,if and when i do find a product # for that bearing I'll let everyone know it amazes me a company would put axle roller bearings in some and not all,tho they are a money saver,the bearings are expensive or at least the ones i ordered are,hopefully they fit,Thanks anyway Zippo as a guy once said see ya in the funny papers.
My apologies if you thought that I am unwilling to help Cotton. Truth be told, I do a lot of helping through my videos. When a specific part is needed, the numbers off the assembly and/or machine are what I would use to locate parts for you. Just like you can do. You're wanting parts not intended for your particular application, which opens a whole new can of worms that involves a lot of searching and time as well as the uncertainty that anything I may have come up with may not work, which puts the burden on me. I will give you some sound advice though. With the existing oil lite bearings, take exact measurements of the inside diameter and outside diameter and search for a comparably sized needle bearing. Look at bearing companies instead of direct parts for the transmission. For example, MI (Motion Industries) or BOCA Bearing or the like.
To further delve into what you were asking me for, there are many variables, that without the transmission in my hands, would be impossible for me to help you with. I gave you the short answer because I am a busy man. I'm now taking the time to further explain why I don't make it a habit of simply providing part numbers. As I mentioned, there is the very real possibility that the numbers I may give would be incorrect, and cause you wasted money and time as well as my reputation.
Variables between similar transmissions are as per the manufacturers specifications. This can be as simple as needing a disc type brake pad instead of a rectangle, or, as you've discovered, needle bearings vs. oil lite bearings/bushings, seals or no seals, limited slip vs positive traction capable, 5 speed vs. 6 speed. C clip axles vs. bolted and the list certainly goes on and on.
What you asked me for, I don't provide, not because I'm an ass hat, but because there is too large a margin for error. Best of luck. Zip~
Wonder what they use in hydrostatic transmissions?
+Love2boat92 The Peerless hydrostatic transmissions? Not sure, but I know there's no filter or drain/fill plug on the earlier ones. Disposable....engineered to fail so you'll have to buy an entirely new unit. BS in a box. lol
ZippoVarga Yes peerless hydrostatic transmissions and the tuff torque transmissions. Yeah it's that planned obsolescence at work too.
they probably just fill 'em with piss
Good info to know. I have had alot of these apart for racing purposes, and always assumed it was grease from the factory. I'm tempted to try some 00 grease and see how they like it, vs gear oil leaking everywhere.
Yes! I just recently discovered 0 and 00 grease. It's my new goto for things like this. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I've also just learned because the bentonite grease is clay based, it will not mix well with regular soap based grease, like the 00, or gear lube. So if anyone tries this make sure to get rid of all bentonite grease first.
dang...I pulled one of these apart recently and assumed that it was originally grease! Would never have thought that it was a liquid that thickened over time.
Bentonite is a type of clay. It was mixed with a petroleum product to turn it into something like grease, but over time, the two components separate, leaving the clay to bind things up. Zip~
I think it is grease cause I had a tube of grease and it smelled just the same and felt the same on my hands and fingers
Plus in older stuff like those with gears usually were packed with grease before installing them in new
Like the spindles are pumped with white grease but I use wet oil in mine. because the grease fresh or old gets worked to side the grease does still work good
For it to work better it would need alot more than that little bit that's in there
What a mess. I'd call that peanut butter.... good idea with adding some diesel to that to keep it fluid. Good stuff zippo, hope you are feeling well bud.
+Craig Arndt Thanks Craig! Hanging in there. The surgery didn't keep me down for long fortunately. Hope all is well on your end as well! Cheers my good Man! Zip~
Way back when I was 14-15yo I repowered a old rear engine Hahn-Eclipse with a vertical shaft Honda off of a Self-propelled walk behind mower. The H-E has a similar peerless trans as this. The wheel shaft sleeves had to be replaced with new one the guys at the repair shop fabbed up themselves. What had happened was the Bronze bushings had worn completely through and ruined the shaft sleeves. What they did as far as lubricant. 90wt gear oil. Now 14 years later the then used engine I had swapped onto this H-E mower, is now giving up. Bad knock like it wants to throw the rod. Mom was wanting to simply junk the tractor but I said no. I'm thinking I'll swap a engine on there this time with electric start. Going to look into maybe going with a brand new one from Small Engine Warehouse, that you talked about in your Grasshopper Vanguard swap videos.
+Indianahick87 Adding that gear oil is probably the best thing you could have done for the transmission Hick. The guys at SEW are pretty helpful, and they don't have just this years engine offerings. They have NOS engines that you can get at a discount from a 2015-1016 engine. Not to mention, Briggs are now manufactured over seas...grrr...so yeah...there's that too. lol Cheers!! Zip~
+ZippoVarga Seems everything is getting moved over seas. I'm going to check my options on the engines. Going to wait til summer though. Garage needs to be cleaned out to make some elbow room.
Hey Zippo I have a Toro 10-32 with a peerless 5 speed it's starting to smoke out of the left side. Could it be just seepage or is it possible a bearing starting to fail?
Smoking? My guess is the brake is stuck and over heating. Nothing should be smoking at all. If it's the brake, you'll need to lubricate and free up the brake. If it's the actual axle, check that there isn't excessive wear on the case. If there is, the bushing has worn through and you're not riding on the case and unfortunately, the fix is to replace it. Fingers Crossed it's just the brake hanging up. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thanks that did it! You da man!
What’s your call on a peerless 100 diff for running an off road buggy/ kart.thanks
Hell yeah! Those things are good for everything. Pulling, racing, and drag racing. They really are good
just watch the video and i am wondering about the goop! i am sure i have the peerless 920 out of my 1986 Simplicity i restored it and dropped the trans axle pulled of the yellow cap and inserted a small rod into the case to see if it had oil/greese and nothing came out so i squeezed 90w synthetic into it i think 6oz per my online pdf . its all together now but it now leaks at the axle shaft. i guess i wasn't supposed to put gear oil. someone tell me what i need to do?
Ride it and go through the gears. The oil will mix with the Bentonite, but it will take time. When the oil stops weeping out of the axle bushings, it's time to add more. These are not sealed units, so they will leak, but in time, the gear oil will blend with the Bentonite. Good luck! Zip~
That's how I filled mine up through the axle hole with what oil I had available 10w30 and my mower rides good its smoother
I don't care how much it leaks, i'm getting the bentonite out of my craftsman's transaxle and replacing it with diff oil
I would lean towards a thicker lithium grease in lieu of gear oil. These trans-axles don't have seals or gaskets, so the gear oil will leak out. I also install grease zerks in the upper case so that additional lithium grease can be added as needed. Just food for thought. Cheers Gamer! Zip~
Finally getting around to servicing my transaxle and it's probably going to end up finally getting opened when I get back to my garage today, I'm either going to try and put seals in it, or put in some lithium grease, after getting the bentonite out and cleaning everything of course
Did you replace with diff oil?? Im working on a transaxle out of a craftsman mower . When I opened it , it was packed with thick grease. Was it liquid at one time? I have it cleaned up and ready to put together but dont know what lube to put back in it!!!????
Did it work?? I dont know what kind of grease to put back in my transaxle ?
@@robertfredregill252 I used diff oil and it leaked everywhere so I'd recommend using lithium grease
What model tractors came with this transaxle
This particular transaxle design was on a
John Deere riding mower from the late 1990's. But the internals are basically the same on dozens of models spanning many years from Cheap MTD, some AYP, Box Store mowers etc. Knowing your axle model number and/or mower model number is your best bet if you're looking for a direct replacement. Different manufacturers specified mounting specifics, but the internals were almost always the same. Some had bearings and seals, others had bushings and no seals. The more information you give me the better I can answer your question Tom. Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga iv got a jd 180 with the transmission slipping in higher gears. Kind of a pulse in a sense.
Looking to replace it, instead of cleaning that crap and finding I need shift forks or whatever wears those 180s out. What should I pay for a used drop in replacement.? 111,112,130,160,170,180?
Iv had suggestions to simply clean the gearbox and it work work again.? Any thoughts on that?
Tom R I think you’re thinking of shift keys?
@@WooferCooker yes ,ended up finding a jd 111 and swapping out transaxle. Works great
What to replace it with? If torn apart why not clean thoroughly and and new lube.
Diluting the Bentonite with Diesel will keep the clay Bentonite and more viscus liquids bonded. With its age and the budget I was afforded, this was the option the owner went with. I do what's asked of me, but I always suggest the alternatives. With no seals to speak of in these trans-axles, you can't replace the Bentonite with gear oil. I also install a Zerk in the top of the cases for the owners to add a thin lithium grease when things start to get sticky. Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga i understand. Thanks for your responce.
My 89 Ford yt16 has one one these and 5th gear doesn’t work anymore
Wonder how well that works at 10 degrees outside? Why don't they just use 30W non detergent and make it serviceable every 100 hours? Great vid.
+Sears Suburban Backyard Tractor Club With no actual seals on the transmission and not even a gasket between the top and bottom case, they would have to completely re-think their design, seal it up and put gaskets everywhere instead of dust shields and plugs. They really went as cheaply as they could with these. I'll thin out the Bentonite a bit, replace worn parts and throw it back into service. Cheers Suburban! Zip~
+Sears Suburban Backyard Tractor Club Because if they built them to last people wouldn't buy them, the people buying these machines want cheap crap they don't want to spend any money. So these companies cheap out on everything. My old Craftsman garden tractor from 1988 actually had 30 weight gear oil in the transaxle, it had a drain/fill plug. The one I have now wasn't the entry level cheap model, yet it is nothing near the quality of my first one. The transaxle in the one I have now whines really bad just moving itself around its beyond horrible. I've had the machine for about 5-1/2 years and I don't see it lasting much longer at the rate its going LOL.
The next machine I get will NOT be from Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. it will be purchased from a dealer...and it won't be an entry level machine or even close LOL.
The Allis 608/611/616 and Simplicity 4208/4211/5216/Sunrunner use the Peerless 801.
The Peerless 910 has the Bentonite lube in it.
The Peerless MTS 206-545C uses regular 80W90 gear oil.
If you look at the casings and the layout they are quite similar.
Is there a reason why the 910 should not take regular 80W90 gear oil?
There are no seals. Just plugs. So the lube in the case needs to have a binding agent to prevent the loss of the lube (gear oil). Using standard grease cut down with a light oil, kerosene or diesel will not separate like the Bentonite and will stay mainly in the case, although, there will be some weeping from the plugs, axles and possibly the brake disc shaft. You could use an RTV silicone to help seal the case, but expect some seepage if the mixture is too thin. Zip~
@@ZippoVargaI have a peerless 930 could I put a thick oil in that with rtv
I thought it was just black grease in my one used one the transmission gear teeth were broken and the transmission itself was to cheap to be worth fixing so i didn't fix it I could have but it just wasn't worth it
I mix lucas oil treatment and mix axle grease with it. don't put that crap back in it.
Zippo can you send me the part number for the roller bearing for the axle,they don't put them in all the units,but as you know the case will accept them,i'm waiting for parts now,it's a peerless 930
Hea fine thanks alot.
An in depth explanation why I don't do this was sent to your other comment. Zip~
why not use a quality engine oil or gear oil? Wouldn't that lubricate a lot better than kerosene?
The Diesel or Kerosene breaks down the Bentonite and makes it more viscus, so it will flow better. But eventually, it will separate from the thinner again. Bentonite is, I believe, a type of clay. Removing all of it and putting in a heavy gear oil mixed with a light grease would be opportune. Cheers! Zip~
by bulk its the least expensive product and keeps cost per unit down..... and they don't have to put real seals in it .......... and on the least expensive Transaxle they leave out the roller wheel bearings .......... but rounded shift keys keep cash flow for mower shops right zippo
+flyinbiker2001 Yep, the shift keys in this one are slightly rounded. I've got a few lying around I'll swap in there after a good bath and inspection of the drive gear that powers the axle. At least they're simple enough to work on. Thanks for stoppin in Biker! Cheers!! Zip~
+ZippoVarga .......... Think 140 weight gear oil might work without leaking on the brake disc ?
Anyone out there know anything about the 3 speed transmissions in walk behind Lawn Boy model 10515? Mine has lost 3rd and is losing 2nd.
How about something about all the broke bolts,just took my mower apart and broke 3 bolts,real problem then.
There's a lot of different ways to remove bolts depending on what you broke them off into. Zip~
No big deal,i'm trying to drill them out ,but 3 of the 16 that hold the cover together broke off at the back of the unit,of the 2 holding the brake on the longer one with the spacer broke ,thanks for getting back with me.
Steel bolts in Aluminum or Magnesium is always a problem. The next time you are presented with it, using a catalyst penetrating oil like PB Blaster and letting things soak for a good 24 hours, then using an impact driver, whether air, or mechanical, will help break the bond that's caused by oxidation. Just putting a wrench on the bolts is a guaranteed way to break fittings nearly every time. It's the preventative measures you take before you put a wrench to them that will make a difference. Zip~
What oil do I use
You don't. There are no seals on this transaxle, so it's grease only. Use a quality grease and thin it out with either diesel or kerosene until it's the consistency of soft butter so that it will flow, but not so thin that it's more like gear oil. Zip~
What are you going to refill the transmission with??
Personally I oil fill them it weeps a bit around the axles, since there's not much of a seal but it works pretty good.
+ARednecksLife I'll liquefy the Bentonite by cutting it down with either a lighter oil or Diesel or Kerosene until it is no longer stiff. As the transmission is used it warms up, which will aid in keeping the internals lubricated without too much weeping from the unsealed unit. Just another testament to the "designed to fail" guys...no gaskets or seals to keep the dirt out. Just plugs and grommets. The guys who convert these into swampers seal them up with a lot of form a gasket and or RTV and they fill them with synthetic gear oil. Between the axle bearing and bushing/guides, they will pack them tight with heavy marine axle grease and to my surprise, these Peerless hold up relatively well. But they DO take some attention before subjecting them to the abuse. Cheers!! Zip~
5:45 Nice to know.
I replace it with 90 wt gear oil
Drive chain?! Wow. These things are weird.
The chan is only for reverse
Looks yummy....
+tractorhead04 I REALLY don't like working on these transmissions, but unfortunately, they're the most common to come into the shop. Designed to fail right from the factory. Cheers my good man! Zip~
mine have hair inside too
I’ve watched & listen to all kinds of videos about how to repair Tecumseh, Peerless Transaxles & none of them really show how to put the gears & shift washers back the on the shafts. Please show how this is done if you are going to make a video on how to repair a Transaxle show how the gears face & which way the washers go on if you people can’t do this, then don’t make a video on how to repair a Transaxle.
Wow. Ok. This video has helped many with their trans-axles Gilbert. Because it didn't address your specific issue doesn't discount its need. Look at the washers.....They will tell you (by way of their wear patterns) as to how they go back on and please, stop whining and use a little common sense. Zip~