I can't sit quietly and enjoy your videos anymore--have to step up and give you a shout out for all the generosity of instruction. And a Southern boy too. Thanks from South Carolina--keep 'em coming!
Great test to do, and I always enjoy seeing the outcome of the project. It looks like 3 is pretty good, but 6 appears to have a slightly sharper image.
Agree. When it started on the 3m level, I could tell a difference, it was 'crisper' looking, same with 6... but 9 was just a bit 'fuzzier' looking. Just my observation.
Wow, great timing. My D1 Pro is arriving today, and I have coaster orders… thanks for making this video! Question… How necessary is it to ventilate when burning coasters? I need to bring my production into my basement when the weather turns. Thanks Sam.
Thank you, you are amazing straight to the point and very clear, Question If I find my sweet spot using the jigs as I had to go up to the 9mm. Does that require me to put the jig in everytime I engrave,? also does this work for the cut focus as well? Thank you
Here is a pro tip that I have been doing for over 2 years.I started like you with an Ortur...Get yourself a z-axis height adjuster,and adjust your focus manually..In other words you need to eyeball it with the laser dot...First you put a piece of flat black cardstock over the piece you need to engrave or cut,press fire button in lightburn and you will see your laser dot.Now with the z axis adjuster you can pinpoint the size of that dot to it's smallest...I guarantee you will never adjust any other way because, you will have better engravings and faster cuts.Also when doing fire mode in lightburn everything below 5% there is no problem ,I mostly leave it a 3%... Last thing, by doing this you need to get rid of that shield...Also if you want the most perfect dot, use a microscope you can get them cheap on Amazon...If you want perfection, this is the best way...
when your kick stand is down instead of trying to lift it and possibly mark your work, just slide gantry to the right and then lift your kick stand. This way it is not scratching backwards but walking away with no mark.
Hello Sam. Just found your channel today and have spent quite a bit of time watching some of your laser videos. I really like your presentation method. I am new to the whole laser scene, just bought an Xtool D1 10 watt machine and haven’t used it yet, been working on projects with the CNC. Question, how do you set the XCS software up for engraving multiple items at the same time? I figured you would have to do 1 at a time unless you were cutting them out of a single piece of material?
Great videos Sam. Only found your site recently. Wish i had found it earlier it would have saved me a lot of headaches. So far you seem to have the answers to most of my questions. No one seems to talk about the how-to and why about laser focus, instead of just using the mfgs settings. Have you done anything with glazed ceramic tiles? I would love to see something about your process. Thanks again for the videos.
I have really noticed this with my ortur LM2 pro as well when engraving walnut charcuterie boards, I raise the focus point by a little bit like that from factory and I get a much better engraving!
Engraving always make something very pretty. I want to order me some. I love your videos they’re always so inspiring. Thank you for sharing. Hugs and prayers much love. Oh and much love to my Angela I know she’s hard-working too
I knew someone would be asking. :) Yes, 20w. I ran these at 250 mm/s 50% power, 300 DPI. BUT do a material engraving test to be sure that's the best settings for your machine. :)
Correct, that is for cutting and moving the focal point. I keep mine at the 0 point most all the time since I cut on a CO2 laser. I checked today and it's still set to 0. :)
I need to burn a logo into a pen I turned. I have the roller dialed in but I can't get the laser quite right. The logo is a little slopy for my taste. Any suggestions
Very interesting who would have thought that would work as well as it did! I just ordered last night a Longer Ray 5 10 watt with air assist it will be interesting to see how well it works using your technique. About 6 years ago I bough an Ortur laser Master original one in the T shape I believe it was 3.5 watts still works well.😁🛫
I noticed that you had what looked like a Atomstack P9 hanging on the wall behind you. I just bought that laser and I'm wondering what you think about it.
Hey Sam, thanks for this video. Did you ever tried finishing before/after lasering ? I like the before method on stone and I like it with a single coat of Danish Oil, which finishes IMHO pretty well the piece making it a step further in quality.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to try this. Do you have a link anywhere for those coasters? I haven't had much luck finding consistently priced smooth edge coasters.
I import them myself from overseas. I want to offer them wholesale to other makers, but have struggled with getting consistent results from many suppliers. I've been working on it for about a year solid now.
You want to run an engraving test for every material you use. If you use Lightburn, I offer a premade file you can purchase and load. It's under the "Laser Test Files" section of my website: sam-craft.com I also sell it on Etsy if you rather that platform.
I don't, I leave them raw. I am just about done with a 3 month extreme test on coasters with a variety of finishes too. That will be a fun video to share. :)
Remember to always test your own laser with each material, but here's what I ran from Lightburn (no xTool creative space here): 250 mm/s, 50% power, 300 DPI.
My flame alarm on my D1 Pro 20w was always causing me problems and giving false alarms. I disabled mine through settings. This link will help: forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/turning-off-the-flame-detection-on-xtool-d1-pro-20-watt/77960
It's still in "prototype mode" but my spoilboard is locked into the laser, yes. All my jobs run from the home position (absolute coordinates) in Lightburn. This keeps everything right in place like they should be. :)
IMO 6, 9 are both better than 3. 3 has several missing spots, 6 none and 9 a couple smaller ones. OK, looking again, it may be a tile quality issue. 3 has some fissures in it, that look like they may have cause some of the missing spots. 6 and 9 look like very good sample tiles. OK, I liked your solution at the end. 🤷♂👍
I agree with you. :) Your thought process in the comment is exactly what I was thinking in the shop realtime. :) That first coaster tile was pretty rough, so I credited the flakes to it being from my "trash" pile.
I can't sit quietly and enjoy your videos anymore--have to step up and give you a shout out for all the generosity of instruction. And a Southern boy too. Thanks from South Carolina--keep 'em coming!
Great test to do, and I always enjoy seeing the outcome of the project. It looks like 3 is pretty good, but 6 appears to have a slightly sharper image.
Agree. When it started on the 3m level, I could tell a difference, it was 'crisper' looking, same with 6... but 9 was just a bit 'fuzzier' looking. Just my observation.
Thanks for the tutorial on this. I haven't tried coasters yet. I hope I get good results on my P2. Great information.
Thanks Sam! D1 Pro 20W… Used 1500 mm/min and 50% power at 4mm above focus. Can’t wait for your coaster grid to come out
It should be available very soon. The Lightburn design is done, just need to re-hash the base mounting then film it all.
*Great video Sam!* I always defocus slate and stone by 5mm. This method works really well on photos as well.
Great to hear! Photos are a realm I have not ventured into yet!
Wow, great timing. My D1 Pro is arriving today, and I have coaster orders… thanks for making this video!
Question… How necessary is it to ventilate when burning coasters? I need to bring my production into my basement when the weather turns. Thanks Sam.
Thank you, you are amazing straight to the point and very clear, Question If I find my sweet spot using the jigs as I had to go up to the 9mm. Does that require me to put the jig in everytime I engrave,? also does this work for the cut focus as well? Thank you
Great test, i do the same - between 3 and 6 - thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful!
Here is a pro tip that I have been doing for over 2 years.I started like you with an Ortur...Get yourself a z-axis height adjuster,and adjust your focus manually..In other words you need to eyeball it with the laser dot...First you put a piece of flat black cardstock over the piece you need to engrave or cut,press fire button in lightburn and you will see your laser dot.Now with the z axis adjuster you can pinpoint the size of that dot to it's smallest...I guarantee you will never adjust any other way because, you will have better engravings and faster cuts.Also when doing fire mode in lightburn everything below 5% there is no problem ,I mostly leave it a 3%... Last thing, by doing this you need to get rid of that shield...Also if you want the most perfect dot, use a microscope you can get them cheap on Amazon...If you want perfection, this is the best way...
😂🤣😂🤣 when you tossed it up my heart stopped.
Yeah, it was def. a lucky catch!
Would be neat to compare this output with a ramp test focusing result and see if the ramp test gets you spot on. Great videos, keep em coming!
when your kick stand is down instead of trying to lift it and possibly mark your work, just slide gantry to the right and then lift your kick stand. This way it is not scratching backwards but walking away with no mark.
Hello Sam. Just found your channel today and have spent quite a bit of time watching some of your laser videos. I really like your presentation method. I am new to the whole laser scene, just bought an Xtool D1 10 watt machine and haven’t used it yet, been working on projects with the CNC. Question, how do you set the XCS software up for engraving multiple items at the same time? I figured you would have to do 1 at a time unless you were cutting them out of a single piece of material?
Great videos Sam. Only found your site recently. Wish i had found it earlier it would have saved me a lot of headaches. So far you seem to have the answers to most of my questions. No one seems to talk about the how-to and why about laser focus, instead of just using the mfgs settings. Have you done anything with glazed ceramic tiles? I would love to see something about your process. Thanks again for the videos.
Completely agree, Sam! 3 - 6 is absolutely best.
Where did you get the coasters? This looks very interesting.
Never thought to try this. Thanks!
I have the OLM2 and just upgraded the laser module to the 20w. For me it was cheaper than getting a new machine. Definitely increased my speeds
I have really noticed this with my ortur LM2 pro as well when engraving walnut charcuterie boards, I raise the focus point by a little bit like that from factory and I get a much better engraving!
Found my D1 on slate looks the best at 5mm defocused, fun to test, great vid!!
On camera 3 looks the best to me. 😊
That’s cool really never thought about setting off zero. But ya 6 looks the best to me
Great video Sam! Like all of your videos. Question, do you put any spray coat on the slate before or after the engraving?
To me it looks like 6mm is the clearest test run. Nice work!
What number on the side of the laser should it be on
Very interesting. I am going to have to try this test with mine as well. Thanks!
Engraving always make something very pretty. I want to order me some. I love your videos they’re always so inspiring. Thank you for sharing. Hugs and prayers much love. Oh and much love to my Angela I know she’s hard-working too
Hi Sam. Are you using the 20watt? And if so, what are your settings? They look great!
I knew someone would be asking. :) Yes, 20w. I ran these at 250 mm/s 50% power, 300 DPI. BUT do a material engraving test to be sure that's the best settings for your machine. :)
If I'm correct? I do believe the lever on the right is for defocusing. I had it up once and ran a job before I realized it.
Correct, that is for cutting and moving the focal point. I keep mine at the 0 point most all the time since I cut on a CO2 laser. I checked today and it's still set to 0. :)
I need to burn a logo into a pen I turned. I have the roller dialed in but I can't get the laser quite right. The logo is a little slopy for my taste. Any suggestions
Great video as usual! Thank you!
Interesting. Did not think it would work that well. Now I need to try it 😉
Awesome explanation I’m getting ready to do coasters. Nice tips for me to take in consideration.
Glad it was helpful!
Another great lesson. Thanks again Sam.
My pleasure!
I have never had a laser of any kind never used one which laser would u recommend l wish l could talk to u live but oh well b waiting for ur answer
You could use it on a fine work canvas Can you draw on canvas?
3 is favorite
Very interesting who would have thought that would work as well as it did! I just ordered last night a Longer Ray 5 10 watt with air assist it will be interesting to see how well it works using your technique. About 6 years ago I bough an Ortur laser Master original one in the T shape I believe it was 3.5 watts still works well.😁🛫
Hope you enjoy it!
@@Samcraftcom thank you 😊 🛫
I noticed that you had what looked like a Atomstack P9 hanging on the wall behind you. I just bought that laser and I'm wondering what you think about it.
It's actually a Genmitsu laser, but similar I guess. :)
Thanks Sam. I am most comfortable in the real world.
Nice catch! 🫣
Hey Sam, thanks for this video. Did you ever tried finishing before/after lasering ? I like the before method on stone and I like it with a single coat of Danish Oil, which finishes IMHO pretty well the piece making it a step further in quality.
6:15
Nice
My problem is that you are not doing this with the original XTool D-1 10 Watt. The one you are using, is the D-2 20 watt.
Same concept applies, this isn't specific to the xTool. Any laser of any type will benefit from you testing the focus.
Hi Sam 6mm looks best for me. Thanks for great channel
Love your videos. When you ship your coasters in the bubble wrap, what type of outer packaging do you use?
Depending on the customer's order and what other items they purchase they can ship out in a variety of boxes.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to try this.
Do you have a link anywhere for those coasters? I haven't had much luck finding consistently priced smooth edge coasters.
No links for these style coasters. I work directly with the manufacturer and import them in bulk quantities (thousands per shipment).
Nice. Where do you get those crazy smooth / flat coasters?
I import them myself from overseas. I want to offer them wholesale to other makers, but have struggled with getting consistent results from many suppliers. I've been working on it for about a year solid now.
@@Samcraftcom thanks...the ones in the video sure are nice and flat, makes life a lot easier. Would be great if you could sell them to us.
Thank you Sam!
Thanks Sam.
Looks like the 3mm looks best on camera
Mr. Sam, where did you get the smooth edge slate coasters?
I import them directly from overseas through alibaba
How do you know what speed and power to use ? New to laser engraving
You want to run an engraving test for every material you use. If you use Lightburn, I offer a premade file you can purchase and load. It's under the "Laser Test Files" section of my website: sam-craft.com I also sell it on Etsy if you rather that platform.
Hi Sam, great video. What watt laser are you using?
This test was with the xTool D1 Pro 20w module.
Thanks Sam great video!
Nice! Do you spray the coasters beforehand these days (or after) -if so, with what? 🤔
I don't, I leave them raw. I am just about done with a 3 month extreme test on coasters with a variety of finishes too. That will be a fun video to share. :)
hi sam how do you get the laser to engrave one at time in lightburn ?
Group your coaster design per coaster, then set the layer settings to fill all groups at once.
What power and speed did you use
Remember to always test your own laser with each material, but here's what I ran from Lightburn (no xTool creative space here): 250 mm/s, 50% power, 300 DPI.
yes i thing so to i liked 3 great test great video SAM HAVE a good day
Thanks! You too!
Those looked really awesome 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thank you! I have several new designs for coasters on our website. More than this one style. :) greenacrehomestead.com
I always get a machine alarm what can I do to fix this ???
My flame alarm on my D1 Pro 20w was always causing me problems and giving false alarms. I disabled mine through settings. This link will help: forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/turning-off-the-flame-detection-on-xtool-d1-pro-20-watt/77960
😃👍Danke für das Video
How do you manage to get your parts consistently aligned with the cut? Did you bolt down the laser to a spoil board?
It's still in "prototype mode" but my spoilboard is locked into the laser, yes. All my jobs run from the home position (absolute coordinates) in Lightburn. This keeps everything right in place like they should be. :)
@@Samcraftcom thanks. That helps a lot.
3 mm looks best to me on camera. But I understand it may be clearer in person.
3mm looks best to me on camera. 3-6 best.
Where did you find that font?
dafont.com is a great resource!
Love this ❤️
Great vedeo 👍
Glad you liked it!!
Well, crap....I had enough to do today without experiments, lol. Now I gotta try!
I vote 3
Imma lookin and I think the 6mm LOOKS the best "on camera" but your solution seems the best -- yu der - me not.
Nice content bro
Appreciate it
I wouldn't even think to de-focus.
This is why I don't have a laser...plus all the other reasons too.
The 6mm was the best
May the Lord bless and protect you
6 all day
IMO 6, 9 are both better than 3. 3 has several missing spots, 6 none and 9 a couple smaller ones. OK, looking again, it may be a tile quality issue. 3 has some fissures in it, that look like they may have cause some of the missing spots. 6 and 9 look like very good sample tiles. OK, I liked your solution at the end. 🤷♂👍
I agree with you. :) Your thought process in the comment is exactly what I was thinking in the shop realtime. :) That first coaster tile was pretty rough, so I credited the flakes to it being from my "trash" pile.
6mm
3 👍
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️
👍🎅🏻
I like 6
The real world. The world of 🤔 real.
🤣
Man the smell from slate while you’re engraving is awful so me and a closer for my laser
You should seriously consider a fiber laser. Your XTool would never do another coaster if you did
As my small business (outside of TH-cam) grows I foresee someday making the jump to a true fiber laser.
Man the smell from slate while you’re engraving is awful so me and a closer for my laser