How To Rebuild A GM Starter - Part 2 of 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ต.ค. 2024
- In part one of our GM starter rebuild, you were able to see Josh take apart the starter and find out what parts needed to be replaced and cleaned. In part two, Josh puts it all back together nicely so we have a fresh starter to use if needed.
This is part two of a two part series.
If you have any questions, please let us know in the comments section below.
You can purchase Cadillac starters, solenoids, and parts from Caddy Daddy below:
1934-1984 Cadillac Starters and Solenoids - bit.ly/CDStart...
1934-1984 Cadillac Starter Parts - bit.ly/CDStart...
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Good job, Cad Dad. A couple tips I have found useful over the years are to make a couple of witness marks on the nose cone and the housing to help with alignment during reassembly, and to loosen the long through bolts a tad if the solenoid doesn't want to rotate back into place easily. Retorque the through bolts, of course, before use. I'm gonna have to check out all of your stuff now 👍
I love how you put the washers in order and pre-fit everything before final assembly, real attention to detail and a job done right 👌
Putting the parts out is order is always a good idea. Gives a chance for
a final inspection and to check fit. Makes it easy to get things right
the first time.
Josh
Cad Dad. This 2 part series on rebuilding a Delco starter is a godsend! I'm rebuilding a starter from a 1963 Chevy Corvair Greenbrier Van. Something I've never done. They want $350-450 for a rebuilt starter here in 2022. For less than one George I got a kit with everything I needed to do the job. Your instructions were great and I'm confident that I can do this!
Thank you sincerely.
The Corvair Cop
Many thanks! I am rebuilding a Delco Remy starter for a 1970 Gravely tractor. Your explanation of the brush orientation and springs was helpful.
Glad the video helped with your tractor. The first Delco starter I ever
worked on was for a John Deere 2010. Josh
A very nice video. I have often enough made this the last 31 years. It is a wonderful easy technology.
Great Video, I've rebuilt a few of these over the years, but learned a few tricks from you!
Thanks! It's good to hear that our videos are helpful. Josh
I love you man I am from Iran and I have watched your videos and I hope to see more from you. Thanks a million.
Thanks for watching. Josh & John
Thank you for passing forward this is a lost art. I appreciate it
"Yes, simple things like this are becoming a lost art.
That's why we make the videos and thanks for watching." Josh
As I write this I'm headed into my she to Finish the rebuild on my 63 Corvair starter. It goes into my 63 Corvair Greenbrier van.
Then, I'll be ready to turn the key!
Thanks Caddy Daddy!
Thanks for watching. John
@@Caddydaddy
It works!
@@martincolvill5453 It's always nice when the plan works. John
This is beyond my scope of knowledge as I rarely ever work on vehicles that are new.
You PERFECT 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍in EVERYTHING 👏👏👏👏👏
Great detailed tutorial! Thanks! :)
Nice video mate. Can you tell me more about the solenoid R terminal please? I know there's a S and a R terminal. R is basically to bypass the ballast for full 12V to the coil + during cranking. If that being the case, why can't the coil wire be connected straight to the S terminal for full 12V during cranking? The S is already on full 12V cranking.
Are there any pictures available to see how the R terminal is activated inside. If the S pulls the solenoid on cranking power, how then is the R terminal connected inside the solenoid to give that full 12V?
Thanks
When the S terminal is energized and the solenoid pulls in, it not only connects the battery positive to the starter motor but also the R terminal. When the starter is not energized, the R terminal is isolated. If the wire that feeds the R terminal was connected to S, then the current would back feed through the ballast resistor into the solenoid winding when the engine is running. Inside the solenoid, there is a metal disk that bridges two large contacts for the battery and starter motor and the smaller R contact when the solenoid is energized to allow the engine to be cranked. Josh
@@Caddydaddy Thank you for your reply. Perhaps I really need to strip down the solenoid as you did to understand the inside better. Cheers mate
Taking something apart to see how it works is a great way to learn. Josh
Thanks for the great advice. John
Happy to have helped out. Take your time and pay attention to every detail and it will go fine. Josh
Thanks for watching Josh
Excellant video .
Thanks Josh
I am rebuilding a marine starter looks like this it has the internal spark arresting plate. It does not have a leather fiber washer on the shaft, will that matter? Perhaps make one out of greased cereal box paper? It has NO washer at all.
My 98 GMC has the starter on the passenger side, that drive cover has the cut out on the left side of the starter, very hard to find one, Can I or is there a way to rotate a right side cut out to make it a left side cut out ?
Awesome video thanks I'm rebuilding a 1940 Buick starter similar technique ,where can you order starter parts?Thanks this was a great help .
Thanks. will go back late this year for 1940's Buick parts, but we have not sourced them out yet. John
Thank you .At least the video refreshes me on rebuilding the starter ,I used to do them all the time 30 years ago and a few over the years so this is helping sadly the oldtimers are mostly gone and now im carrying the torch like you for the next gen .thanks for your channel .
What is the right depth for the roll pin? Show it in close up please.
When I took mine apart, the previous rebuild shop had undercut the mica in the commutator. Is it ok to leave like this?
Yes, undercutting is fine. It is often not done on starters to save time. Josh
@@johncoyle4125 Reason I ask is from what I've read, these copper powdered starter brushes can deposit sloughed off copper into the mica grooves over time, causing arching, etc.
Undercutting on a starter should be no more than 1/64" inch deep and .002" wider than the mica. The dust is no issue if undercutting is correct. It becomes a moot point once the commutator is worn.
--Josh
What lathe do you use?
Do you recommend lubricating the solenoid piston? If so what lubricant do you recommend?
Frank,
The solenoid piston should be clean and dry. Any lubricant can cause it to collect dust and bind. Josh
You may be the caddie daddy. To me you are the Cat Daddy of Starter Repair. Thank you. I am going to replace the starter drive on my 1969 Nova small block. The unfortunate part of my situation is the flex plate is also damaged. I am going to file in the teeth of the flex plate in hopes that with a new drive and the burrs filed off the flex plate teeth it will get me through the summer. A couple of car shows and a couple of trips to the 1/8 mile drag strip. I'll pull the engine and transmission over the winter. Freshen up the powerglide, replace the flex plate, and install a new set of headers. For now, I just need it to crank enough to start. The drive would not engage due to damage to it and the flex plate. 11 to1 compression, 93 octane gas, 200 degree engine and 26 degrees of initial timing don't play well together. Spinning the engine and turning on the spark is the new normal for this old hot rod from now on.
Very happy to have helped with your Nova, and good luck on the strip! Josh
Nice video . Good to watch and learn some things.
Can silicone grease also be used anywhere on the shaft?
The shaft can be lubricated with a light grease Josh
6:38 A̶r̶m̶a̶t̶u̶r̶e̶ ̶ Commutator
Where can I buy those parts
We are hoping to have these kits for sale in 30 days or less.
You are so darn tootin cute!! Also great video
Thanks for watching. Josh