Why your ENGINE needs a WATER COOLED EXHAUST! | YACHT REBUILD WEEK 69
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- (Ep.77)
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We finish up building and welding our new wet/water cooled exhaust and talk a bit about what that entails as well as service our water pump.
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#marinisingadieselengine #marinenegine #yachtrefit - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Wow, Very Good Work..Well thought trough and super nice made.!! wish they build the exhaust unit on my Marine-Peugeot- engine like yours.. (mine is allso with 270Volvo Z-drive) on my boat its made from standard steal, and it rusted away after 8jrs..The rest 'you 2' are building the same way, witch I know works perfect.. Succes with the great build of your boat engine.! Greerz.NL
Thanks so much!! Appreciate it!! 😁💯
@@livingwiththemaias Oh man this looks so Good. Could you please manufacture this for my car . Also 2.0L 4 cylinder
good job and great video. The only thing for consideration: I would place inlet and outlet of water on the oposite sides to ensure better cooling efect along the lenght, unless access in engine room does not allow. Cheers
Busy busy guys. Ricky think “ ceramic coating” for the header. This will get it to room temperature with no wrapping required
Coming together nicely. Don't isolate the anode with teflon tape! It needs electrical continuity with what you are trying to protect.
Thanks David. ☺
very well done,
just one point, the major part of the cooling of the exhaust gases occurs when the engine cooling waters mixes with the exhaust gases.
In fact, the exhaust gases intantly heats the exiting water up to the boiling point then transforms a part of this water in steam, on a full throttle operation, up to 10% of the exiting water can be transformed in steam,
A good indication of lack of cooling water is a heavy production of steam at the exhaust.
Exhaust looks good. If you haven't already I'd consider adding additional support, other than Simone, from the manifold to the engine block. Hanging that much weight when it's filled with water and when the elbow and exhaust are attached may make the manifold fatigue at the welds from vibration, crack then crevice corrode.
Thanks! 😊
Ricky is a mechanical genius and Simone is hot. Makes great channel. Can’t wait to see you sailing.
Thanks so much! Can't wait to be sailing! 😊
Crafty South Africans. Excellent engineering and beautiful fabrication.
Thanks so much 😊 👍🏻
I know it’s a bit late now, but would it not have been a good idea to have the cooling water enter and exit from opposite ends, and not having the exit being with a couple of inches of the entry, I’m sure your going to have stagnant water flow at the far end from the water ports ~
First time I ever saw a manifold welded up, and the anode is sheer genius, I never saw that before. What's needed for a closed cooling system engine and manifold, but raw seawater cooled riser (which many boats need but not yours) is an anode inserted into the riser water somehow.
Good looking piece of metal!
Thanks 😊 👍🏻
Very nice job. But I agree with some comments - I would make water outlet on other side. Also, I think would be better to cut plate in 4 pieces before surfacing. Or at least use 4 gaskets from standard manifold when bolting on, not one big gasket.
Сергей Канаццкий thanks, it is 4 gaskets ☺
If your heatexchanger is up to par run the engine coolant through the manifold, then never have to worry about corrosion and the anode
Getting closer - well done to a very talented couple
Thanks so much Graham! 😊
Excellent video. Beautiful exhaust manifold!
Thanks so much Wayne! 😊
Hi. Was looking forward to this episode. Hope the exhaust manifold fits like a glove! All the best
Thanks Gerhard! 😊
Thank you for the incredibly informative video! I learned a great amount from viewing, with specific questions that I had being addressed during the explanation of benefits.
Thanks Dan! 😊
looking epic guys!
Thanks bud! 😊
excellent design for your cooler and well engineered. It should last a long time.
Thanks so much Grant! 😊 👌🏻
Looking awesome well done
Thanks 😊 👍🏻
Excellent work Ricky on the pump rebuild. Very informative video. The old Izuzu looking pretty smart. She should give you excellent service for many years. Thank you for sharing. Have a good week ahead.
Thanks so much Matt! 😊
Make sure that exchanger is filled with only water when the engine is off. Oxygen can be a bastard in exchangers. Have had exchangers leaking after two years because of air in them when driveline is not used. Would be a shame to see such lovely work not to last. Love your videos!
Thanks Johannes! 😊
Legendary,you are,you have my complete attention.Be sure you take time for yourself and smell the flowers.
Thanks so much 😊 👍🏻
Ricky is a boss! Awesome work!
Thanks so much Kevin ☺
Looking very nice.
Wish for longer episodes :D
Thanks so much! 😊
fab guys and greetings from Ireland!
Thanks Michael 😁
Another very educational video. I love how you thought about the anode to avoid electrolysis eating your engine out. I hope the stainless steel is marine grade and the welding does not become a weak point for rust.
Thanks so much! 😊
Nice looking manifold! Hint, Don't grease impellers unless you can run them immediately after installation...it breaks the rubber down. Liquid soap or glycerine may be OK for delayed use after install but most just use water or nothing.
Thanks so much 😊
Make sure that you leave clearances for repairs and bolt access and double check everything before dopping the engine into place.....
Hi, I've watched 3 of your videos on the marinization of your engine, I think it's the most informative videos I have seen on the topic. I had a question, the inner T shaped pipes that you welded inside the heat exchanger, could you tell me what those initially were? and the outside cone shaped pipes. Thanks!
If the inlet and outlet is on the same side, whats stopping recirculation and water not reaching the last exhaust? Also just check i think that sink anode needs electrical continuity with the stainless steel its protecting. We always Chuck a strap between the anode and structural steel in seawater. Looking good though. Keen to hear her purrrrrr.
Thanks , the inlet is on the bottom side of the exhaust and the outlet is on the top opposite side of the exhaust (heat rising ) the flow rate 20L/min will force the water to the end and as there is a slight back pressure due to the inlet being force fed and a same diameter outlet compared to intel . Having the exhaust in the middle of the housing acting as a barrier promoting the circulating motion of the water along the length of the exhaust. Yes as the whole engine is grounded the anode is also grounded and as the zinc has the highest potential this would be the more attractive alloy .😉💪
@@livingwiththemaias Brilliant....!
I agree, it's not going to be very efficient, you should use the lower for you intake and weld another one on the top of the box close to the exhaust elbow. That way you force the water thru the whole area and you end up having a shorter hose connecting it to outflow on the elbow. Just my 2cents
@SBT Hi. I've done the hydro static calculations for it and I'll shortly add a simulation of the model to prove this.. Unless you are more experienced in hydro dynamics please share your simulation. This would be greatly appreciated thank you very much. 👍🏻
@Ricky. Firstly I'm a SA Porra married to a Boertjie like you now living in Cali so if you come this way or need anything from the states, you are more than welcome to contact me. I don't have experience in Hydro Simulations but have a lot of RaceCar experience where the coolant system has to be very efficient because of size and weight. I was just pointing out, just by looking at it and I'm sure you have done your homework(Not criticizing your ability as you do an amazing job). You did a stellar job with the manifold and I don't think you will have any issues with the SS and electrolysis/corrosion. Cheers PA!!!!
Excellent!
Thank you!
realy good job
Thank you!
In my country our traditional boats dont use salt water to cool down instead fresh water and don't use a radiator instead a long stainless steel pipe sticking out to the hull to make the cooling
You should have a water entry at one end and exit the other end or else the coolant will not get to the furthest cylinder port. Ideally you need to run a heat exchanger too.
Nice build on that manifold cooler guys. Are you putting an adaptor in to access your oil filter elsewhere?
Waughthog Waugh no it come out fine
Cheers guys, Trev. TH-cam sailing channels
Cheers Trev! 😊
Ricky Guaranteed? Um... I'm not sure... how... I feel about... that... uhhh.... J/K! Lekker!
Haha 😂
high, I am one of your subcriber from Istanbul Turkey, you are doing a great job and I really enjoy following your page, Dont know if I missed some episodes but I havent seen Moses last 2 sharings, where is he ?
Thanks so much! Moses got another job we did show it in our previous episodes. We have small jobs left to do where we don't need his help anymore so we got him a more permanent job. ☺
Hi Guys, do you have this all modeled up in Solidworks?
If so, I would have someone run some CFD flow studies for the water flow through the unit and then run some thermal studies on your design to find any potential thermal caused stress points that would lead to early failure of the unit to head off problems down the road.
My first impression is the water flow (circulation) without a baffle or an internal pipe to force the water to circulate from one end to the other may be a problem, remember water will always take the path of least resistance. So I would to make sure that there is no short circuiting between the 2 water ports.
Can that oil filter assembly be relocated with the filter hanging down to reduce the changing mess?
I have a mechanical engineering degree. I've done these tests numerous times. Don't worry everything will be fine 👍🏻
@@livingwiththemaias Okay.... 30+ year mechanical designer here... I'll be watching
Eh! no tape on the anode threads so you get a good electrical connection . 😇
Yes!! 👍🏻 ☺
instead of wrapping check out ceramic coating.
...um I need one of these for a Ford 2.3L sohc/omc cobra 2.3..I know there's a factory one available., but this looks better and I'd need to be able to put a turbo on it.
The cylinder/engine block waterjacket will be cooled by a freshwater/coolant mix using a heat exchanger or? A proper mill, what a kickass tool that is..😊
The engine will be fresh water cooled using a heat exchanger if that makes sense. ☺
@@livingwiththemaias are you buying that off the shelf or making one yourself ?
@@R.E.HILL_ we buying one from bowman heat exchangers.
Looks great but will you be able to change the oil filter with the manifold in place?
Thank you! I'd be highly disappointed in my engineering skills if I hadnt thought of this 😂 yes we will be able to.
@@livingwiththemaias I would have been highly disappointed too...
Looks great. the only one question that would have was were you able to pressure test it to look for leaks?
Yes it was pressure tested to 6 bar.. Converted to 82psi
Nice to hear that it would have been a shame to find out that there was a pin hole and it leaked water into the engine or the exhaust fumes into the cabin its nice to have peace of mind knowing that it safe to use. it looks great looking forward to see how rest of it comes together and what you are going to use on the exhaust pipe going out to keep it cool. i do like the zinc rod anode it should make it last the life of the boat with the maintenance being done like you talked about.
Without baffles the water circulate from inlet right to outlet, cooling only #1 port and maybe #2 a bit. #4 may actually develop steam forcing water out of the jacket. Unless a diesel's exhaust is much cooler than gas anyway.
You'll see. We have done a flow analysis it works perfectly fine. 👍🏻
Really Good Work Brother, Wow!, all the best, you deserve it, you and your lovely lady...God Bless, question: are you Greek by any chance?
Thank you! No I’m Portugues 😎
Awesome, many friends who are Portuguese, explanation on the engine is very informative.
Question - how will the water be made to flow around the exhaust? I mean won't much of the water in the water-jacket just flow from inlet to outlet?
Water flows to the part of least resistance but if the system is force fed it has to follow the path by which it is being forced there after it will follow the path of least resistance due to the injection point and exit point the water will flow in a swirling motion within the exhaust baffle.
Looking good guys. Won't that sacrificial anode be difficult to remove after corrosion has its way with it? I've seen what happens to anodes on the hulls over time and it ain't pretty
Only the zinc will corrode the brass and stainless will be fine, which is the whole point.
Thanks NY Don. Why you have subscribed? is correct. The zinc will corrode not the brass and stainless steel.
What is the reason for the most of marine engine manufacturers are using cast iron manifold ?
How are you cooling the engine? Won't you need a separate heat exchanger for that as well. The sea water outlet of this one would also need to be mixed in with the exhaust gasses.
Yes first stage of cooling is going through a marine heat exchanger which replaces a radiator. There after the water flows into the exhaust system which cools the exhaust manifold. Stay tuned for more episodes where we will explain the whole system.. Hope this makes sense.
Hi kids,
hey the engine and cooling jacket look great, but I just noticed at (14:11) the position of your oil filter seems to be under and almost directly against the jacket... Are you sure you're going to have ample room to swap out filters?
Roland D. St. Arneault yes dead sure 😎👍🏻 changes out fine
Well if you are guaranteeing it for twenty years, I’m good with it.
Haha thanks so much Kevin! 😊
Love the exhaust manifold. Fyi always remove the dust cover on new bearings and repack with grease correctly. They are seldom are done correctly.Use the same grease . 2nd banging and hammering a bearing into place ??? Really ??
Not good ...either freezes the bearings or heat the receiver.
Thanks Jim! 😊
Leave bearings alone Jim. Buy better bearings not knock offs. The people who make them know what they’re doing as they MAKE THEM!
You are very knowledgeable.
Thanks 😊
Shrimp on the baaaaaah by
How do you avoid the water from the cooling box, to go into the cylindders ??
There is a exhaust system inside...
Don't you love "living" in a blue-collar city, P.E is filled with some of the most skilled labour in the country!
There is some good skill here for sure! 👍🏻
Good video! But I Think there could be a little less explaining, as it makes the video a little bit protracted😩But other than that, I still enjoy your videos just like always😊Looking forward to the next episode. It’s amazing how much work you guys have done to the cat!
Thanks so much! 👍🏻
That oil filter doesn't look to accessible now the exhaust manifold is on.
Yes it is. We would be bad engineers if it wasn't accessible 😂
quick comment if you isolate the anode from the exhaust it will negate the purpose of the anode
Interesting this is the first time I have heard any one doing this. I find it interesting but wonder if you are aware of reversion that cooling the exhaust gasses down makes it more dense and heavy causing the gas to return back into the combustion chamber when you are only working with 23% of your volume is oxygen it usually causes an engine to run rich on a stock tune. Due to some of the inert exhaust gasses going back into the engine. The exhaust works well when its hot and the exhaust gasses are less dense creating a vacuum or very low pressure in the exhaust.
The anode should not be electrically isolated. That defeats the purpose of the anode. You may want to fresh water cool the exhaust manifold. This is the most common way for Diesel engines. You of course need a larger heat exchanger since there more heat load. Item 142390745192 on Ebay.
WRT your water cooled manifold, with both water inlet and outlet at the same end, is there not the possibility of the water flow short circuiting at that end of the manifold, leaving heat build up in the (relatively stagnant) water at the end away from the inlet & outlet? There was mention of some baffling, but I couldn't see any. It is a really well made piece though!
Thank you! ☺ 👍🏻
Safety glasses.......even when working plastics......
did you build your water cooled exhaust manifold because you can't buy them or what ?
why not place the outlet on the other side of the heatexchanger? the back end wil have stagnant water and will only cool thru convection not by cool water flow :en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_and_tube_heat_exchanger
You shouldn't use anything on the threads of the anode. It needs to make contact with the metel you are trying to protect. Change that brass fitting out for a stainless one.
Are you sure you want the anode electrically isolated? I think it won't work that way.
I know it will work this way.. We will show you with time. 👍🏻The anode is bonded to the grounding terminal.
@@livingwiththemaias ok that will work, just wanted to make sure it wasn't completely isolated.
This manifold is what i will call welding porn, it's an absolute wow piece of engineering and craftsmanship.
Why do you feel you do not need an anti-siphon valve? I do not see that having your water cooled exhaust then water going into the exhaust line is any different than the water cooled exhaust on my yanmar marine engine that has a anti-siphon valve.
Better and *safer* for the engine,to use the original exh manif; make,or have it made,a good insulating bkanket and a shield plate; sometimes i only use hi temp wraping tape,but FIRST i do a few heavy coats of hi temp paint underneath,because when salt water lands on that hi temp tape,the cast iron manif starts to rust,if not painted under the tape; even like that,if it gets wet, tape removal to inspect is needed once a year;
the boxed -in exh manif you made WILL fail,and water WILL go thru the exh valve that is open and ruin the engine, it's a matter of time; much much better if it has antifreeze inside,but for that you need a bigger intercooler,obviously.
edit...Omg...and you still have 4 pieces glowing red hot in there, those 2 inch long exh pipes; insulate those,now; if that is not a turbo,they will not get red hot,but they must be protected. like i said,what a COSTLY waste of time,i think,with that manif.
Great video thanks for posting.
There's design flaw - water will flow shortest path possible meaning exaust closest to the water outlet will be cooled right and furthest will be much hotter. To avoid that you should put separate tube inside exchanger going all the way to the other side or to make water intake and outlet at opposite side of exchanger. The way you did it significatly decrease efficiency - probably to 25% of what should be, or less...not good at all.
If that is all mild steel it will have a short life. Heat and salt water cause steel to corrode quickly. Stainless of aluminum would have been better.
Jack Patteeuw it’s all in 316L stainless steel
South African accent?
Sure is.
You still have a hot spot on the cylinder head where the header goes .Poor design
2 Years and still working great on another boat.
No safety glasses on the lathe dude.
Delrin doesnt throw chips like some metals do, it's just a pain as the strings of swarf wrap around everything.
Don’t. Just don’t do that.
Did they calculate anything such as exhausting pressure? What about the cooling temperature?
It’s just good looking garbage.
Obviously we checked the back preasure and the thermal conversion. Im an Engineer not a finger painter hahha