Nice job here. The teardowns really give the best measure of quality. You can tell if a company is skimping or not. Usually if you see it in one place, you see it everywhere. It would have been nice to get a money shot of the BMS removed from the top of the battery. You gave us the model number but it would have been nice to see it firsthand. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
I got 3 of these in my golf cart. I am happy with them, this was pre blue tooth and low temp protection. I am happy with them. It was the best price for batts that would work in series for my golf cart. And the size is perfect
dude this could seriously tell you what amperage the vehicle is drawing from it. very useful for troubleshooting. i have seen it many times a trunk light or module somewhere is pulling a parasitic draw and draining the battery while off. also useful while the engine is running. and useful for all the time. tells you the health of the battery and the health of your car without disconnecting circuitry. or using fancy tools, or poking around with a multimeter.
Except these aren't normally set up to start vehicles, can destroy your alternator, and dont work when too cold or too hot. As a battery for an RV etc, sure. But still a ways to go for a starting battery. With the cost and performance, if they can overcome the limitations, they are more than equal to SLA's in today's environment, especially in cost/capacity/lifespan.
@ if i have a Ford E350 senior citizen bus that has a secondary battery mounted to the frame underneath and it is coupled to a stock battery isolator and charges while the vehicle is running but needs replacement soon then can i run one of these in there and will it take a charge ok this way? or do you need special chargers for it? this secondary battery does not start the vehicle and it is charging from the alternator while the vehicle is running. my thoughts are this could be an ez way to add on an inverter to it for my 120v loads, and just use the 12v for the 12v loads. From the factory this battery was used to power the wheelchair ramp etc
@@dangerdavefreestyle I presume in terms of the problem with the BMS shutting the battery off at full charge, the starting battery still being connected will not result in a voltage spike as the "primary" battery will still be connected. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. As a primary battery it's absolutely a bad idea, but as a secondary, SLA as primary, I expect it will be ok. You'll have to see if your alternator puts out enough to charge the lifePo4. Some vehicles do, but you'd need 14.2-14.6V to get fully charged, and on older vehicles that kind of voltage isn't a given, so you'd need to test voltage at idle with all accessories running for your "worst case" voltage scenario. And again, these batteries don't take a charge when cold, so if that's a concern, keeping the battery in a heated compartment is a requirement. lifePo4 's are awesome, but they definitely have some intricacies that can make putting them to good use in certain situations difficult or near impossible.
Ya, i picked up an ecoworthy 280ah to power my deep freezer full of ice cream and gaming pc during peak demand hours when the power company jacks up our electricity rate in the summer and recharged it after peak hours. worked great all summer and it is ready for next year. within 3 years it will pay for itself in money saved on my electricity bill. they regularly go on sale with coupon codes on ebay during the holidays!
I have over 500Ah in EcoWorthy batts for least 3yrs now and they are holding up. From 20Ah to 100Ah batts. From 12 to 24v. I do wish I had the Bluetooth though but, I don't.
I'm running 2x 100ah 25.6v, they're solid batteries, and mine are older stock too, no bluetooth, probs no metal frames either. I can wait til these die in about 12 years time 😅😅
@ I actually have one of Eco 24v 100ah and it's the only one that went bad on me. Actually it started to swell. Still working but I won't be using it much longer as using bloated battery can be very dangerous. I contacted Eco and they sent me another one.
Spark: Either the capacitors in the inverter did not get charged or they discharged between charging and connecting the cable. Usually it won't spark if the terminal voltage is at least 70% of the battery voltage but higher is better, especially with higher voltage systems. not charged: resistor value too high for the time connected and the capacitors did not get charged. Can use the voltmeter on the inverter DC terminals to measure when the terminals get to the battery voltage. discharged: high drain on the capacitors, perhaps because the inverter was turned on while charging, or simply took too long to connect the terminal. With a voltmeter on the inverter DC terminals, watch how long it takes to discharge down from the battery voltage.
You nailed it right in the head, Sylvan. It's "not charged". I picked a resistor which had 1.2K Ohm and charge time was too short, not enough to charge up the capacitor hence the spectacular arc. And that's only 12V. Imagine doing this with a 72V battery pack!
You should use a LOW value resistor. About 18-30 ohms. Get a nice 10w resistor of about 20 ohms. Yeah, your 1.2k ohm resistor made the charging process too slow. Or you didn't get good contact with the resistor lead / alligator clamp. 🤷🏻♂️
Better to use a 12v incandescent bulb as a charge resistor. It’ll light up when touched and the caps will be charged once the light goes out. The caps discharge quickly so touch the connection wire then remove the bulb from the terminal and you should have no spark.
The resistance of the resistor is to hight (I think 5 to 10 ohm is ok), or there is a contact problem. I always use the positive lead to pre charge and switch on then.
So, -7 c it stops charging the battery,. but can you still use it or not? since you didnt test that with the lamp, only charging the battery. how much CCA does this battery have? Cold Cranking Amperes can you use it as a startbattery?
lifepo4 batteries can be used down to about -20C, but cannot charge below 0C, some brands have self-heating batteries that if charging current is applied below 0C it will use that current to heat the battery, and then charge it once safe. Not sure why this specifies -7C tbh, might be a slightly different design. BMS controlled lifepo4 batteries are not something that provides "CCA" like a starter battery, they are designed for sustained and deep loads such as inverters and solar generators. Rated continuous amps is 100, peak amps before shut off depends on duration, 200A surge, 150A 30s is typical for lifepo4 in this range Not suitable for a starter battery.
You could technically use it as a 12v battery in at least some hybrid or electric vehicles that have no engine or a starter motor powered by the high voltage battery... But not in vehicles with a traditional 12v starter motor... It MIGHT NOT be safe in all hybrid or electric vehicles though but SHOULD be
I have a ceramic resistor that I use, that should be able to deal with lots of use, but it turns out that it had burnt out inside. I did the same as you too :)
hi, i have a question that customer service in ebay cant respond , they told me the charging voltage of the battery was 14.6V but they dont know the floating voltage that the charger should provide , one CS told me this battery has no floating voltage , so do someone here knows the floating voltage this battery is maintained after charging is done ?
@@vuaeco the solar charger float the batteries at 13.7 after fully charged do you think this will damage the batteries? disconnecting them and reconnecting them does not seem practical or maybe new solar system chargers dont float batteries ? (floating batteries after charge is when they maintain a voltage after charge) i just check a few articles online and floating charge seems to be normal for lifepo4 batteries and they do it around 13.4 and 13.6 it does not matter if they have BMS or not the solar panel charger will float them .
I have the 280 ah version . I emailed eco werthy because i have a victron mppt smart solar charger and wanted to know what i should set the charge and float voltage to 14.6 Is this correct ?
resistor should be a low resistance high wattage or it will take longer to charge up the inverters caps thus you didn't have it on long enough...50-100 ohm resister for 5-10 seconds..
@vuaeco . I'm curious at the shutoff voltage of 366.0mv. Shouldn't it read 10volts. Since each cell low voltage cut-off is 2.5volts x4? What did I miss. Thanks for all you do. May you and your family have a blessed Christmas and prosperous New Year 🙏
Hello Vueco, forgive me if you answered this question. How long did it take to fully charge this battery before you did the capacity test? Thanks. I recently bought a Dunfume same volt and ah. And it takes less than 2 hr. To charge to full capacity at 10amps. Something is not right imo.
@@milvolts1 How long it takes depends on a couple of factors. How fast is your charger? How empty is your battery? If your battery is 100Ah and it's completely empty and your charger is 25A then it would take about 4 hours to fully charge your battery.
I'm actually surprised at the build of this battery . One question, with this design and charge controller, does that mean that you can use any battery charger, even older ones that are designed for lead acid and this will just stop the charging process automatically? Or do you need to also buy a special Lithium battery charger? (extra cost). I'm hoping that it can use a normal charger. I have some cheap, Chinese power devices that use Lithium batteries like Dewalt or Ryobi use, except that the charger is just a normal wall wart adapter and just plugs into the batteries with a standard off-the-shelf barrel connector. Nothing special. The charge controller handles what's needed and actually works well. What I like about this particular design, is that it doesn't require a special and expensive charger. I have a lot of power tools that all have their own charger and in several cases, the chargers fail so I have to repair them. I wouldn't mind picking up a dual-pack as I'm seeing on Amazon. I'd like to connect this to my pure sine inverter with an automatic transfer switch to keep power to the furnace and some lights, in case of power outage. We do have 2 generators, but it's a bit chilly to go out during winter to try to start them. LOL
wile i was watching your video, you said that your electric kettle was 1500 watts and it drew 145 amps. thats impossible, 1500 watts divided by 120 volts is 12.5 amps. at 240 volts thats 6.25 amps so im assuming you just misspoke.
While you are correct given the data you used. He may have been referring to the draw from the battery. Though at 145 Amps that would mean a battery voltage of approximately 10.4V.
You get what you pay for. I got grief. Just like when I got the Bluetti power station. Grief grief . Use the Bluetti to power my fridge while camp. Spoiled food ruined camping trip.
Too bad there is no way to test reliability because that would demonstrate to potential user this is something to avoid unless you want nothing but grief.
I GET 100AMP hours from 12v to 13.6v so clearly your battery does have enough cappacity in it like mine does lol if i drain my battery all the way below 9v i will get 115AMP not 100AMP LIKE YOU GET FORM YOUR BATTERY AND MINE IS WAY CHEAPER AS WELL LOL AND MY BATTERY COMES WITH BLUETOOTH AND A JBD BMS
HELLO YOU CAN CHANGE THE TEMP OF THE SENSOUR TO ANY TEMPATURE YOU WANT TO SET IT TOO LOL SO IF YOU WANT THE THERMAL SWITCH TO SHUT THE BATTERY OFF AT 10 DAGRRESS YOU CAN DO THAT SO IT DOESNT MATTER WHEN IT SHUTS THE BATTERY OFF AND ALL THAT BECAUSE YOU CAN CHANGE ALL THAT SO NEXT
YEP SAME BMS THATS ON MY BATTERY AND MANY MANY OTHERS GO FIGURE ITS USING THE CHEAPEST PARTS BUT THEY CHARGE THE MOST OF COURSE THEY DO SCUMBAGS BUY A MJBSAN BATTERY PEOPLE ITS THE SAME THING IF NOT BETTER AND ITS CHEAPER
THE ONLY TIME THE BUILD QUAILITY MATTERS IS IF YOUR GOING TO THROW IT AROUND AND BEAT ON THE BATTERY OR IF YOU PUT IT IN A VEHICAL THAT MOVES AROUND ALLOT AND MIGHT FLIP OVER THEN THE BUILD QUALLITY MATTERS SO STOP IT BRO THE BUILD QUALLITY DOESNT MATTER
so if a compnay is selling these same batteries for 100.00 dollars that mean it dont cost shit to make one of these batteries then so why are people paying so much for something that doesnt take shit in materials to make so stop it putting 4 batteries in series and putting it in a case doesnt cost 100 dollars to do so whay are you buying batteries that cost so much when its clearly take maybe 20.00 dollars at most to make this battery pack
the build quaellity doesnt matter its not about how it looks its about how it performs and this battery sucks for the money buy a MJBSAN if you want good battery people thats cheap
MFUZOP 100amp battery for 105 dollars people so please dont buy this crap battery theres are way better for way cheaper so yeah MFUZOP is 105 dollars right now so buy that battery instead
YEP M BATTERY I CAN CHANGE ALL THE SETTING SO IF I WANT THE BATTERY TO SHUT DOWN AT 150AMP I CAN BUT I HAVE IT SHUT DOWN AT 1000AMP INSTEAD THE POINT IS I CAN CHANGE THAT SETTING AND ALL SETTING YOU CANT LOL SO SHUT UP AND REVIEW A GOOD BATTERY FOR THE CHEAP NOT THIS SHIT BATTERY
Nice job here. The teardowns really give the best measure of quality. You can tell if a company is skimping or not. Usually if you see it in one place, you see it everywhere. It would have been nice to get a money shot of the BMS removed from the top of the battery. You gave us the model number but it would have been nice to see it firsthand. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
Great review. I love the metal brackets that Eco W has on there now.
I got 3 of these in my golf cart. I am happy with them, this was pre blue tooth and low temp protection. I am happy with them. It was the best price for batts that would work in series for my golf cart. And the size is perfect
dude this could seriously tell you what amperage the vehicle is drawing from it. very useful for troubleshooting. i have seen it many times a trunk light or module somewhere is pulling a parasitic draw and draining the battery while off.
also useful while the engine is running.
and useful for all the time.
tells you the health of the battery and the health of your car without disconnecting circuitry. or using fancy tools, or poking around with a multimeter.
Except these aren't normally set up to start vehicles, can destroy your alternator, and dont work when too cold or too hot.
As a battery for an RV etc, sure. But still a ways to go for a starting battery. With the cost and performance, if they can overcome the limitations, they are more than equal to SLA's in today's environment, especially in cost/capacity/lifespan.
@ if i have a Ford E350 senior citizen bus that has a secondary battery mounted to the frame underneath and it is coupled to a stock battery isolator and charges while the vehicle is running but needs replacement soon then can i run one of these in there and will it take a charge ok this way? or do you need special chargers for it? this secondary battery does not start the vehicle and it is charging from the alternator while the vehicle is running.
my thoughts are this could be an ez way to add on an inverter to it for my 120v loads, and just use the 12v for the 12v loads.
From the factory this battery was used to power the wheelchair ramp etc
@@dangerdavefreestyle I presume in terms of the problem with the BMS shutting the battery off at full charge, the starting battery still being connected will not result in a voltage spike as the "primary" battery will still be connected. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. As a primary battery it's absolutely a bad idea, but as a secondary, SLA as primary, I expect it will be ok.
You'll have to see if your alternator puts out enough to charge the lifePo4. Some vehicles do, but you'd need 14.2-14.6V to get fully charged, and on older vehicles that kind of voltage isn't a given, so you'd need to test voltage at idle with all accessories running for your "worst case" voltage scenario. And again, these batteries don't take a charge when cold, so if that's a concern, keeping the battery in a heated compartment is a requirement.
lifePo4 's are awesome, but they definitely have some intricacies that can make putting them to good use in certain situations difficult or near impossible.
Ya, i picked up an ecoworthy 280ah to power my deep freezer full of ice cream and gaming pc during peak demand hours when the power company jacks up our electricity rate in the summer and recharged it after peak hours. worked great all summer and it is ready for next year. within 3 years it will pay for itself in money saved on my electricity bill. they regularly go on sale with coupon codes on ebay during the holidays!
say you use the entire 3 kWh everyday. how much is your savings?
I have over 500Ah in EcoWorthy batts for least 3yrs now and they are holding up. From 20Ah to 100Ah batts. From 12 to 24v. I do wish I had the Bluetooth though but, I don't.
Haha, I got you beat. If you go by 12v, I have a total of 2100ah. I have various 12v, 24v and 48v. About to get more before the Trump tariffs.
I'm running 2x 100ah 25.6v, they're solid batteries, and mine are older stock too, no bluetooth, probs no metal frames either. I can wait til these die in about 12 years time 😅😅
@ I actually have one of Eco 24v 100ah and it's the only one that went bad on me. Actually it started to swell. Still working but I won't be using it much longer as using bloated battery can be very dangerous. I contacted Eco and they sent me another one.
Spark: Either the capacitors in the inverter did not get charged or they discharged between charging and connecting the cable. Usually it won't spark if the terminal voltage is at least 70% of the battery voltage but higher is better, especially with higher voltage systems.
not charged: resistor value too high for the time connected and the capacitors did not get charged. Can use the voltmeter on the inverter DC terminals to measure when the terminals get to the battery voltage.
discharged: high drain on the capacitors, perhaps because the inverter was turned on while charging, or simply took too long to connect the terminal. With a voltmeter on the inverter DC terminals, watch how long it takes to discharge down from the battery voltage.
You nailed it right in the head, Sylvan. It's "not charged". I picked a resistor which had 1.2K Ohm and charge time was too short, not enough to charge up the capacitor hence the spectacular arc. And that's only 12V. Imagine doing this with a 72V battery pack!
@@vuaecoIt is best to measure the voltage across the resistor so you can see when it has completed charing the inverters capacitor.
You should use a LOW value resistor. About 18-30 ohms. Get a nice 10w resistor of about 20 ohms. Yeah, your 1.2k ohm resistor made the charging process too slow. Or you didn't get good contact with the resistor lead / alligator clamp. 🤷🏻♂️
Just use the 12v lamp.
should have been the thumb nail. shocking
What's in your new adhesive? I love good plastic adhesives so I want to make your adhesive.
Better to use a 12v incandescent bulb as a charge resistor. It’ll light up when touched and the caps will be charged once the light goes out. The caps discharge quickly so touch the connection wire then remove the bulb from the terminal and you should have no spark.
That looks like a seriously good battery for the money.
You can get it even cheaper if you buy the 165 ah dc house which is the same battery different name. I got 1 for $180, or $95/ 100ah.
This is an excellent review. Thanks!
Wow. Looks very good!
The resistance of the resistor is to hight (I think 5 to 10 ohm is ok), or there is a contact problem.
I always use the positive lead to pre charge and switch on then.
nice review, my bro. good analysis.
This was an excellent review. Now, what's in the glue?
the resistor goes from inverter to battery to charge capacitors
So, -7 c it stops charging the battery,. but can you still use it or not?
since you didnt test that with the lamp, only charging the battery.
how much CCA does this battery have? Cold Cranking Amperes
can you use it as a startbattery?
lifepo4 batteries can be used down to about -20C, but cannot charge below 0C, some brands have self-heating batteries that if charging current is applied below 0C it will use that current to heat the battery, and then charge it once safe. Not sure why this specifies -7C tbh, might be a slightly different design.
BMS controlled lifepo4 batteries are not something that provides "CCA" like a starter battery, they are designed for sustained and deep loads such as inverters and solar generators. Rated continuous amps is 100, peak amps before shut off depends on duration, 200A surge, 150A 30s is typical for lifepo4 in this range
Not suitable for a starter battery.
Not to be used in a vehicle as a replacement for Lead acid. Great for boats, RVs, campers....etc
You could technically use it as a 12v battery in at least some hybrid or electric vehicles that have no engine or a starter motor powered by the high voltage battery... But not in vehicles with a traditional 12v starter motor... It MIGHT NOT be safe in all hybrid or electric vehicles though but SHOULD be
Which do you think is better, this or the LiTime mini you reviewed recently? Both have metal compression.
Equally poor IMHO.
Do you think it’s possible to add these to or be charged with the Zendure SuperBase V Power Station?
I have a ceramic resistor that I use, that should be able to deal with lots of use, but it turns out that it had burnt out inside. I did the same as you too :)
hi, i have a question that customer service in ebay cant respond , they told me the charging voltage of the battery was 14.6V but they dont know the floating voltage that the charger should provide , one CS told me this battery has no floating voltage , so do someone here knows the floating voltage this battery is maintained after charging is done ?
LiFePO4 batteries have a BMS and it doesn't float charge. You should disconnect the charger once it's fully charged.
@@vuaeco the solar charger float the batteries at 13.7 after fully charged do you think this will damage the batteries? disconnecting them and reconnecting them does not seem practical or maybe new solar system chargers dont float batteries ? (floating batteries after charge is when they maintain a voltage after charge)
i just check a few articles online and floating charge seems to be normal for lifepo4 batteries and they do it around 13.4 and 13.6 it does not matter if they have BMS or not the solar panel charger will float them .
What are inches?
1 inch is 1/3600 of a football field.
@@hiredgoon4269 ... or 1/198 of a rod, pole or perch. ☺
I have the 280 ah version . I emailed eco werthy because i have a victron mppt smart solar charger and wanted to know what i should set the charge and float voltage to 14.6
Is this correct ?
Victron specs have their own same tech batts at a recommended 14.2 charge and 13.5 float.
Very nice presentation!
@jimmy_Ross
Where is your youtube channel
Great review video! Can you show us how you make the glue?
The cell's number start with 081 which tells us the manufacturer is REPT.
Also, a great manual for this BMS is available from Overkill Solar.
The software from JBD can be used to read and adjust the settings...esp. the max current which is set way to high for a 100A BMS.
resistor should be a low resistance high wattage or it will take longer to charge up the inverters caps thus you didn't have it on long enough...50-100 ohm resister for 5-10 seconds..
Love your videos my brother. But to start an accurate capacity test. Battery needs to be charged to 14.6volts. =to 3.65v per cell.
You don't get 14.6V after a full charge because of the BMS. At anything above 13.33V at rest is considered 100% charge.
@vuaeco . I'm curious at the shutoff voltage of 366.0mv. Shouldn't it read 10volts. Since each cell low voltage cut-off is 2.5volts x4? What did I miss. Thanks for all you do. May you and your family have a blessed Christmas and prosperous New Year 🙏
@@milvolts1the BMS shutoff, which is why the voltage was so low
Hello Vueco, forgive me if you answered this question. How long did it take to fully charge this battery before you did the capacity test? Thanks. I recently bought a Dunfume same volt and ah. And it takes less than 2 hr. To charge to full capacity at 10amps. Something is not right imo.
@@milvolts1 How long it takes depends on a couple of factors. How fast is your charger? How empty is your battery? If your battery is 100Ah and it's completely empty and your charger is 25A then it would take about 4 hours to fully charge your battery.
It makes me want to buy one but I don’t really need it. Now I am thinking of ways to justify why I need this battery. 😂
Save your money. If you have that much money to throw away give it to a homeless person.
Buy 4 of them and send them to me for Christmas.
Where can I download the app?
Hi...
Is the Bluetooth App necessary 2 just use it as a power source or
Is that another way they get your data 2 sell 2 data brokers...
Bluetooth is just to see battery data, it has no control functions. You can use it without bluetooth.
@@chaon93 ...
Hi...
That is how i interpreted it;... thank you for the clarification...
@@chaon93 ...
Hi...
That how I read it;... thank you for clarification on that...
Two of these in my Mobility Scooter should work fine...
Make sure the inverter connection cable is rated for over 100 amps!
I think they are not!
I'm actually surprised at the build of this battery .
One question, with this design and charge controller, does that mean that you can use any battery charger, even older ones that are designed for lead acid and this will just stop the charging process automatically?
Or do you need to also buy a special Lithium battery charger? (extra cost).
I'm hoping that it can use a normal charger.
I have some cheap, Chinese power devices that use Lithium batteries like Dewalt or Ryobi use, except that the charger is just a normal wall wart adapter and just plugs into the batteries with a standard off-the-shelf barrel connector. Nothing special.
The charge controller handles what's needed and actually works well.
What I like about this particular design, is that it doesn't require a special and expensive charger. I have a lot of power tools that all have their own charger and in several cases, the chargers fail so I have to repair them.
I wouldn't mind picking up a dual-pack as I'm seeing on Amazon.
I'd like to connect this to my pure sine inverter with an automatic transfer switch to keep power to the furnace and some lights, in case of power outage.
We do have 2 generators, but it's a bit chilly to go out during winter to try to start them. LOL
nice
wile i was watching your video, you said that your electric kettle was 1500 watts and it drew 145 amps. thats impossible, 1500 watts divided by 120 volts is 12.5 amps. at 240 volts thats 6.25 amps so im assuming you just misspoke.
While you are correct given the data you used. He may have been referring to the draw from the battery. Though at 145 Amps that would mean a battery voltage of approximately 10.4V.
1500W draw from the battery, not from AC outlet. My clamp meter is on the battery wire.
i have 3 1 50ah 2 100ah
.. need to connect your ground first .. 🚫⚡
You get what you pay for. I got grief. Just like when I got the Bluetti power station. Grief grief . Use the Bluetti to power my fridge while camp. Spoiled food ruined camping trip.
not very competetive when i can get 4kwh of 280ah cells for 170 bucks shipped.
From where??
Jimmy ross is out of er
1% iPhone, lol
Yep. My phone has never gone past 2% since the year 2022.
Too bad there is no way to test reliability because that would demonstrate to potential user this is something to avoid unless you want nothing but grief.
I GET 100AMP hours from 12v to 13.6v so clearly your battery does have enough cappacity in it like mine does lol if i drain my battery all the way below 9v i will get 115AMP not 100AMP LIKE YOU GET FORM YOUR BATTERY AND MINE IS WAY CHEAPER AS WELL LOL AND MY BATTERY COMES WITH BLUETOOTH AND A JBD BMS
Cuánto cuesta esa en los Estados Unidos???
I have a 30amp and it won't charge.
HELLO YOU CAN CHANGE THE TEMP OF THE SENSOUR TO ANY TEMPATURE YOU WANT TO SET IT TOO LOL SO IF YOU WANT THE THERMAL SWITCH TO SHUT THE BATTERY OFF AT 10 DAGRRESS YOU CAN DO THAT SO IT DOESNT MATTER WHEN IT SHUTS THE BATTERY OFF AND ALL THAT BECAUSE YOU CAN CHANGE ALL THAT SO NEXT
LOL ITS A THERMAL SWITCH HELLO
YEP SAME BMS THATS ON MY BATTERY AND MANY MANY OTHERS GO FIGURE ITS USING THE CHEAPEST PARTS BUT THEY CHARGE THE MOST OF COURSE THEY DO SCUMBAGS BUY A MJBSAN BATTERY PEOPLE ITS THE SAME THING IF NOT BETTER AND ITS CHEAPER
THE ONLY TIME THE BUILD QUAILITY MATTERS IS IF YOUR GOING TO THROW IT AROUND AND BEAT ON THE BATTERY OR IF YOU PUT IT IN A VEHICAL THAT MOVES AROUND ALLOT AND MIGHT FLIP OVER THEN THE BUILD QUALLITY MATTERS SO STOP IT BRO THE BUILD QUALLITY DOESNT MATTER
so if a compnay is selling these same batteries for 100.00 dollars that mean it dont cost shit to make one of these batteries then so why are people paying so much for something that doesnt take shit in materials to make so stop it putting 4 batteries in series and putting it in a case doesnt cost 100 dollars to do so whay are you buying batteries that cost so much when its clearly take maybe 20.00 dollars at most to make this battery pack
AND I BOUGHT THAT LIFEPO4 100amp BATTERY OFF OF AMAZON SO SUCK THAT LOOSERS
dont buy this battery people unless they drop the price down to 120 dollars
the build quaellity doesnt matter its not about how it looks its about how it performs and this battery sucks for the money buy a MJBSAN if you want good battery people thats cheap
MFUZOP 100amp battery for 105 dollars people so please dont buy this crap battery theres are way better for way cheaper so yeah MFUZOP is 105 dollars right now so buy that battery instead
YEP M BATTERY I CAN CHANGE ALL THE SETTING SO IF I WANT THE BATTERY TO SHUT DOWN AT 150AMP I CAN BUT I HAVE IT SHUT DOWN AT 1000AMP INSTEAD THE POINT IS I CAN CHANGE THAT SETTING AND ALL SETTING YOU CANT LOL SO SHUT UP AND REVIEW A GOOD BATTERY FOR THE CHEAP NOT THIS SHIT BATTERY
yep my cheap 100 dollar battery can do way more then this 200 dollar battery so stop the bullshit bro review a MJBSAN battery