SEALING up the window buck with redundant protection
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- We got a how-to demonstration from Tape Ninja Ken on the Wigluv Siga tape
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VIDEO NOTES
Site Visit walkthrough high-end new construction, renovation, and remodeling projects. Looking at siga architectural details, building products, framing, electrical, plumbing, staircase, Rockwool, modern design, door hardware, sealing, repair, fix, replace, subtle details, modern staircase, mechanicals, and finish details. Wigluv NS Builders shares building and project management insight while showing the step-by-step progress of ongoing jobs. Site Visit is hosted by Nick Schiffer owner of NS Builders. Waterproofing your basement?
Building products, cabinet tips, new building secrets, and framing become architectural details. New construction and renovation, rockwool ideas start and finish with building and running successful builds.
NS Builders operates in Boston, Newton, Cambridge, and in the greater Boston area. Currently, 5 projects are under construction with a few new projects coming soon.
So the rock wool, the outside plywood, the rain screen, and siding are all just hanging from some long screws? I realize the rock wool is supported by the batts below, which eventually sit on your footings, but an extra layer of plywood, rain screen and siding seems like a lot of unsupported weight
Stay tuned for the solution - coming soon
The wigluv all over the plywood window bucks is a costly detail from a material and labor perspective. Granted its winter… using a liquid roll on would be the easiest and most efficient move for the buck but tape the joint from the majvest to the advantech
warranty issue? they are using siga everything for the WRB.
With every video, I adore that job site view all over again. Lovely.
Absolutely love this detail! I’ve been drawing it on napkins for years and can’t wait to execute it on a job one day
Great tutorial. Ken was having trouble getting rid of the tape remains. I keep a lot of 5 gallons buckets with heavy duty sacks around so there is no need to pick trash twice. Also use different colors for materials to be recycle.
Could you comment or do a video on alternative wall assemblies for this build? It would be great to compare against a double stud equivalent. Double wall seems like it would be simpler for shingle cedar siding (removing attachment complexity).
Great video, as a homeowner on the other side I absolutely love this content!
Lots of confusion on the building science here. The wall is designed to have the least permeable layer (the Majvest) in the middle of the wall’s insulation. Humidity from the interior can’t get past this layer so does not hit the dew point and won’t condense to water and exterior water or vapor can’t get into the house past this layer. The most important factor for preventing rot is allowing the wall to dry in both directions. So no added vapor barrier on the interior and a highly permeable weather barrier on the exterior of the insulation.
But the last layer of plywood that goes on top of the insulation isn't going to act as a vapor barier for the water vapors going from inside to outside and will condense forming water in contact with the insulation?
This is there for bulk water and air. In a heating climate zone there would be a smart vapor barrier at the inside that would allow it to dry to the inside in summer if necessary (mostly wood drying out after construction).
What zone is this? The key is to have a single vapour control layer located at a depth into the insulation that will be above the dew point temperature year round.
In terms of the exterior plywood, it is a partial vapour retarder, but if the rate of vapour movement is small (due to the much stronger vapour control layer), condensation shouldn't be a problem.
Excellent stuff bro
With all the tape that you guys to use it on it might almost be more cost-effective to just stop get the thermal buck
Hahahah that corner bugged Me so much where he smushed it lol just like it triggered you
Nice R-value 👑
for the window install you could use instead of a caulking method (which is fine but I don't think it will last a long time) a product called compriband foam tape that is going to provide a really good seal around the windows and last a lot longer
Finex cement panels are rated for burial and ground contact.
Curious to see how you end up improving that tape mess you were eyeballing! Gotta be a better way. Don’t want to join the bandwagon, but maybe combo of tape and liquid flashing
Is the metal back dam a custom piece or did you order it with the windows? If custom, where did you order from? Thanks for this video.
08:11 When the Siga rep said doesn't have to look pretty,and i saw what he did, first thought was : "oooo, NIck's not gonna like that..."😂
We improved on it already! Haha
Hooray, I would like to think you made the window buck detail just for me (since I asked on IG). Thank you
When installing the exterior sheathing over the Rockwool, could you use some type of metal C channel spaced out every 4’ or so? Then you could fit the Rockwool inside the channel to achieve maximum coverage and minimal thermal breaks. And then you have a solid place to mount the sheathing to. Just a thought. Basically like a perlin running vertical.
We are considering fiberglass z-girts designed for this purpose. Metal would reduce the value of the insulation significantly.
@@julianugentarchitect he did say Z girts, I watched it again, I missed that.
Metal is a conductor. Whole idea is to control the thermal bridging. Should be a good system accept for $. Labor and materials sensitive.
@@francoisbouvier7861 yes, I didn’t even think of using fiberglass material. Didn’t know they made them.
With the saga on, does this allow the house to breath enough so moisture does not build up in the wall cavities and cause rot?
Adding the Siga Majvest wrb behind the Rockwool needlessly reduces wall permeability - doubtful it would reduce permeabiltity sufficiently to cause rot, but it certainly isn't helping, and it's simply not necessary.
OSB for window bucks?
Instead of taping the entire wood window frame, can you use leftover pieces of the WRB to do the flat parts and then tape the seams? Using less tape maybe?
Yes - makes sense for the jambs and underside of the head where water can drain off, but not for top of sill or top side of header buck where water could sit on it.
@@julianugentarchitect yes, I meant tape the appropriate places. Not where water could be trapped.
I wish I got paid in wigluv layers.
Reference to Trident layers.
Why not use a fluid-applied product instead of doing origami with the tape around the windows?
If two layers of siding on top of osb, what type of siding will be there
“How to flash a window in 2 hours with $100 in tape…”
The SIGA products are crazy expensive. But i used to work with their products all the years. If you have any problems with their products, questions for using them or just recommandations to improve their products they are always listening and support you well. It is waterbased glue, sticks like hell and bonds 30 years without any problems. I know that from renovations.
Yo dawg. I heard you like Wigluv tape...
the home owner will have an easy lawsuit that assembly will fail.
Your builds are top notch and I appreciate that you pay attention to the details and quality more than any other TH-cam famous builder....that being said, that Siga rep doing the tape was trash. I hope you remove his botch job and redo or at least hopefully that whole roll of tape he used for one corner was free 😅
45 min to do one corner with the factory rep. Now imagine day labour 3 corona's in cutting those corners, they're going to mess that up with wrinkles and that will let water in. It's why most of them have gone to the stretchy single applied.
i like the science and all but im telling ya, with the price of siga products and everything else in this world being sky high, normal 200,000 home will double easily using these products. i cant even get people in my area to use zip panels!
The siga rep needs to learn how to butterfly that corner...that looked really shoddy
As admitted, zero need for the Majvest SA behind the Rockwool - taping the plywood seams for your air control layer is all that's needed.
Rather than being 'redundant', using Majvest behind the Rockwool decreases permeability and decreases ability for vapor to escape the wall assembly.
I suggest you're doing more harm than good - and spending a ton of your clients money to do so (labor to install self-adhering wrb isn't cheap - nor is the cost of Majvest wrb)
Nick misspoke on this point. The majvest is the air, water, and vapor control layer. It’s in purposefully in the middle of the insulation (5.5” batt in stud walls, 6” board insulation outside) to prevent vapor from condensing when it hits the dew point. The wall is able to dry in both directions. If it was taped plywood only, vapor would get into the outer insulation and condense when it hit the dew point. This method allows us to skip an interior vapor barrier.
Probably a good idea to note what zone you are in, as the appropriate vapour barrier depth into the wall is quite different in Alaska vs the south east USA. I assume you calculated the dew point depth for the range of temperatures and humidities in your region but it is good for others to realize that this arrangement may not work in their zone.
This is a topic that many people get wrong. Eg in our northern climate, it is common to install an inch or two of vapour impermeable foam over a 2x6 wall full of fluffy insulation with 6 mil poly under the drywall. I cringe every time I see that vapour sandwich, and it is effectively encouraged by the codes here. You are right that many misunderstand the building science wrt control layers.
I remodel older buildings and haven't worked on new builds for years but WHEN i do ..... many new builds are falling apart after 5 years and some old buildings from 130 years or older are tight as a drum. The speculation and cost is a problem for people spending a lot of $ for new systems.
So much waste generated from that tape. Fluid apply flashing seems like it would be way simpler to apply and less wasteful.
Why extra sheathing on the rockwool?!?! Just screw on the rain screen only like everybody else.
Won’t work for shingle siding. Clapboard or board yes. Not shingle. Unless you double up strapping and you end up adding a ton of labor and material.
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needs to be liquid applied at windows or it will fail
with tape! sorry
Rockwool touching the ground? If that's what I think it is this is the worst thing I have ever seen in my life, no chance the rockwill be dry more than a few days despite what your female architect says
Comfortboard is both moisture wicking and rated for below grade.
@@NSBuilders So rockwool holds it's R value when wet?
This is not the same Rockwool used inside walls. It’s designed for ground contact, does not wick water, and does not attract insects.
@@julianugentarchitect Interesting. I'd have to see it to believe it though. Keep us updated on how this goes
@@NSBuilders Female Architect? What does the designers gender have to do with the quality of the details? Second they stated that they were working with rockwool on a product solutilon for the insulation touching the ground, and that the piece shown was a temporary spacer.