another good tip.. if you're using a spanner or socket & ratchet on the crankshaft to turn the engine over for maintenance.. remember to remove them before trying to start the engine ( doesn't just apply to 200 300 Tdi's ) ... Mike as always some very good info there, thanks
Actually that is another video in itself! If I have difficult crank bolts to get out, you put a long extension under the car close to the chassis and onto the bolt - and turn the key! (Pull the main HT lead or the injector pump solenoid wire) Always come off! Mike
Totally! I think I took a batch of 15 rads to the scrap all the same - got a good price for them. The aluminium ones are good - but would have been perfect if they put aluminium tanks on instead of plastic MIke
I fitted a digital temp guage on my 200 that measures block temp rather than water temp with an alarm that you can set at a desired temp. It can help to prevent the false reading you may get with trapped air. Always good to have a second guage! Much cheaper than a new head.
Hi Mike, I just recorded a short video on the sensor. I actually placed it on the cylinder head! I may look to move it at some point. If you click on my account you will see how it works.
Hi Mike, thanks again for this brilliant vid about the TDi. I wonder for what reason Land Rover puts the radiator and oil-cooler in one unit. Does this construction improve cooling the engine? Is it a matter of space? What do you think of seperately installing an oil-cooler and radiator as single units? What is the ideal (oil-) temperature for the running engine? 82°C, 86°C? When your are going 55 to60 mls/h ( no extra load, 20°C ambient temp.) on the highway and the oil gauge constantly shows 100°C, just above when going uphill, and back to 95 on a decline, will this be a hint to check for a cooling problem of something else ( valve gaps correct? head gasket? Water pump working, but ineffizient. ...)
Oil in the Tdi's gets quite hot due to the return oil from the turbo where it picks up heat. Next time I have a Tdi running I should check the feed and return temperatures with the thermal imaging camera
@@BritannicaRestorations Oh, that's fine. So, I am looking forward to studiing the results. I just looked around, whether there is a 74 or 76C thermostat for the 200/300TDi housing, like the optional equipment one, you can find in Series 3 engines. I could imagine, that there are options for the ROW- versions on 300/200TDi, but I did not find them by one. I should mention, that we mounted the TD5 intercooler in front of the 200TDi radiator ( Series 3 109 swap), with a Kenlowe 16" 2-stage windmachine, sucking air through.
Great tip on a very important topic. Can you tell the optimum operating temp for the coolant and oil (200/300TDi)? Is 75 to 80 °C to low? 88 to 95C to much, if running on the highway for hours?
I'll have to send you a photo of my old radiator Mike which I changed whilst restoring my defender.... its exactly how you described and perhaps your subscribers like me can see what you mean.
Hello Mike.I have a question about 300tdi e thermostat what is the difference between the 77°c spec and the 88°c spec thermostat does it have any difference or pretty much the same ?
I Mike, Great video, very instructive and clear as usual. Question: I'm going to change the hoses and the water pump in my 300TDI, and I found there is some light rust, it is not very bad, but lot of rust deposits in the expansion tank, and I was thinking in do some flushing to the system. And I thought, beside the flushing, why not to use a phosphatizer agent mixed with demineralized water, after the flushing?, and let this mix to act for at least 1 week, and then flush the system very very deep, to eliminate all the rest of debris and the mix, and then change the hoses, and the water pump, to later top-up with proper coolant. What do you think? Do you ever use this kind of products? can it be harmful to some parts/gaskets? Thanks!
You have to be careful what you use with aluminium I have been quite lucky and not needed back flushing but it really depends on how heavy is the rust - I was going to suggest Vinegar and Salt which is good but can eat Aluminium Here are some suggestions toolspicks.com/best-radiator-flush-reviews/
Another useful video Mike thanks. Any tips please for an over cooling 200tdi? Viscous coupling and thermostat ok. Only reaches normal temp with radiator 80% covered. Definitely running cool as heater blowing luke warm
Have you got the right type thermostat in with the bypass valve? www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/84799/5497/thermostat_88_deg_200tdi_defender___range_rover_classic___discovery_1
Yep that's the one. I'm going to ask a stupid question now but I took off the black rubber ring thinking it was just to protect edge of thermostat in transit. Should it be left on?
Hi I run a 200tdi discovery and I’m sure the black seal is only used on the 300tdi. I re conditioned mine and it has run cool ever since unless worked hard. Not sure why that would be, it had a new radiator so maybe it’s super efficient?
Congratulations on yet another easy to understand but comprehensive great video. I would like to hear what you think about electric cooler fans Mike, like the Kenlowes. I have only ever fitted one and that was on a forward control because of the drive shaft being a constant problem. Are they efficient?, and were should the sender go?, at the bottom of the rad to read how cool the water is after going through the rad?, or at the top of the rad were it is the hottest???? and is a two fan system with slightly different temperature setting better than a one fan system. Due to the total war on diesels by our government here in the UK and in the EU in general I,m thinking of taking my motor off the road for a while after winter to fit a petrol engine on LPG, so it would be helpful to learn the full SP on electric fans rather than read the advertising crap in the LR mags. Keep up the good work Mike, and if you do I will get in touch with the vatican and recommend to the pope that you be made the patron saint of Landrovers. Doesn't that sound good---- Saint Mike of Landrover. (LOL)--- Best wishes from Rob, here in Gods county Yorkshire.
Thanks Rob!Good question for the electric fansI see a lot of viscous fans not working so they are deemed useless, but then again the are a few electric fans that will let you down when you need them as they are rusted up I fitted 2 x fans to my 110 with the Isuzu in as I had limited space to put the regular fan in I used thesewww.britpart.com/all-parts/da8966/ Not cheap, but quite good.The sensor fits in the top hose and is adjustable for temperature ( you cut the hose and clamp it in)18 months now and no botherI did buy an override switch for it so you can use it on auto/off/ onNeater than Kenlow in my opinion Nice kit as it picked off the original rad mountings - there are some that you tie to the core but I don't like them Only comes on after a run when the truck is stood and there is no air flow and even then they go full pelt for only a short while Mike
Rob - you leave the original thermostat in, but there is an electronic one in the housing that goes in the hose - you can then tweak it to suit your needs Mike
Very useful video. Airlocks are common on 300Tdis, but less so on 200 I think. My 300 had airlock issues which turned out to be a clogged Y-piece where the thermostat housing and rad expansion lines join the expansion tank hose, under the tank on the Discovery and RRC. After clearing it out with a wire rod (be careful as the plastic gets very brittle with age), I never suffered any more airlocks.
06:42 I paused the video and went checking pipes on my 300 Tdi. All is in place. But I always suspect of a "hidden" overheating
Could be the start of a head gasket problem..
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you
07:12 I remember seeing oil last time I topped up coolant water 🙄
Not good...
Thanks AGAIN mate. Love your work (and sense of humour).
another good tip.. if you're using a spanner or socket & ratchet on the crankshaft to turn the engine over for maintenance.. remember to remove them before trying to start the engine ( doesn't just apply to 200 300 Tdi's ) ... Mike as always some very good info there, thanks
Actually that is another video in itself!
If I have difficult crank bolts to get out, you put a long extension under the car close to the chassis and onto the bolt - and turn the key! (Pull the main HT lead or the injector pump solenoid wire)
Always come off!
Mike
Radiators on a landy are a service item. I've been saying that for years. Thank goodness I can now point to this video to stress my point!
Totally!
I think I took a batch of 15 rads to the scrap all the same - got a good price for them.
The aluminium ones are good - but would have been perfect if they put aluminium tanks on instead of plastic
MIke
I fitted a digital temp guage on my 200 that measures block temp rather than water temp with an alarm that you can set at a desired temp. It can help to prevent the false reading you may get with trapped air. Always good to have a second guage! Much cheaper than a new head.
Sounds interesting - where did you place it on the block?
Mike
Hi Mike, I just recorded a short video on the sensor. I actually placed it on the cylinder head! I may look to move it at some point. If you click on my account you will see how it works.
th-cam.com/video/LWjsn3rDLwo/w-d-xo.html
Hi Mike, thanks again for this brilliant vid about the TDi. I wonder for what reason Land Rover puts the radiator and oil-cooler in one unit. Does this construction improve cooling the engine? Is it a matter of space? What do you think of seperately installing an oil-cooler and radiator as single units? What is the ideal (oil-) temperature for the running engine? 82°C, 86°C? When your are going 55 to60 mls/h ( no extra load, 20°C ambient temp.) on the highway and the oil gauge constantly shows 100°C, just above when going uphill, and back to 95 on a decline, will this be a hint to check for a cooling problem of something else ( valve gaps correct? head gasket? Water pump working, but ineffizient. ...)
I never liked the oil coolers in the rad - separate are much better - I seem to think I covered this subject in another video
@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you Mike for the quick response.
Oil in the Tdi's gets quite hot due to the return oil from the turbo where it picks up heat.
Next time I have a Tdi running I should check the feed and return temperatures with the thermal imaging camera
@@BritannicaRestorations Oh, that's fine. So, I am looking forward to studiing the results. I just looked around, whether there is a 74 or 76C thermostat for the 200/300TDi housing, like the optional equipment one, you can find in Series 3 engines. I could imagine, that there are options for the ROW- versions on 300/200TDi, but I did not find them by one. I should mention, that we mounted the TD5 intercooler in front of the 200TDi radiator ( Series 3 109 swap), with a Kenlowe 16" 2-stage windmachine, sucking air through.
Great tip on a very important topic. Can you tell the optimum operating temp for the coolant and oil (200/300TDi)? Is 75 to 80 °C to low? 88 to 95C to much, if running on the highway for hours?
Is it better to get my old original brass radiator recored or buy a new aluminum radiator?
The brass one is much stronger than the plastic tank one
I'll have to send you a photo of my old radiator Mike which I changed whilst restoring my defender.... its exactly how you described and perhaps your subscribers like me can see what you mean.
Yes do that - britrest@britrest.com
Mike
Hello Mike.I have a question about 300tdi e thermostat what is the difference between the 77°c spec and the 88°c spec thermostat does it have any difference or pretty much the same ?
Officially, there is only an 88°c available
I Mike, Great video, very instructive and clear as usual. Question: I'm going to change the hoses and the water pump in my 300TDI, and I found there is some light rust, it is not very bad, but lot of rust deposits in the expansion tank, and I was thinking in do some flushing to the system. And I thought, beside the flushing, why not to use a phosphatizer agent mixed with demineralized water, after the flushing?, and let this mix to act for at least 1 week, and then flush the system very very deep, to eliminate all the rest of debris and the mix, and then change the hoses, and the water pump, to later top-up with proper coolant. What do you think? Do you ever use this kind of products? can it be harmful to some parts/gaskets? Thanks!
You have to be careful what you use with aluminium
I have been quite lucky and not needed back flushing but it really depends on how heavy is the rust - I was going to suggest Vinegar and Salt which is good but can eat Aluminium
Here are some suggestions
toolspicks.com/best-radiator-flush-reviews/
Another useful video Mike thanks. Any tips please for an over cooling 200tdi? Viscous coupling and thermostat ok. Only reaches normal temp with radiator 80% covered. Definitely running cool as heater blowing luke warm
Sounds like a missing or stuck open thermostat
Mike
Checked thermostat is fine 88c
Have you got the right type thermostat in with the bypass valve?
www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/84799/5497/thermostat_88_deg_200tdi_defender___range_rover_classic___discovery_1
Yep that's the one. I'm going to ask a stupid question now but I took off the black rubber ring thinking it was just to protect edge of thermostat in transit. Should it be left on?
Hi I run a 200tdi discovery and I’m sure the black seal is only used on the 300tdi. I re conditioned mine and it has run cool ever since unless worked hard. Not sure why that would be, it had a new radiator so maybe it’s super efficient?
Lay up your Landy over the winter!?!
Why?
I keep riding the bike all year, when it snows it's the series
I do that as well!
But I make sure to drive my rig at least once per week.
It’s important to do at least a few hundred miles every month.
61 lwb. Daily
Hi, you remind me so much of Fred Dibnah, friendly , imformative, and northern. Top stuff. BTW your watch, is that a CWC G10 ?
Congratulations on yet another easy to understand but comprehensive great video. I would like to hear what you think about electric cooler fans Mike, like the Kenlowes. I have only ever fitted one and that was on a forward control because of the drive shaft being a constant problem. Are they efficient?, and were should the sender go?, at the bottom of the rad to read how cool the water is after going through the rad?, or at the top of the rad were it is the hottest???? and is a two fan system with slightly different temperature setting better than a one fan system. Due to the total war on diesels by our government here in the UK and in the EU in general I,m thinking of taking my motor off the road for a while after winter to fit a petrol engine on LPG, so it would be helpful to learn the full SP on electric fans rather than read the advertising crap in the LR mags. Keep up the good work Mike, and if you do I will get in touch with the vatican and recommend to the pope that you be made the patron saint of Landrovers. Doesn't that sound good---- Saint Mike of Landrover. (LOL)--- Best wishes from Rob, here in Gods county Yorkshire.
Thanks Rob!Good question for the electric fansI see a lot of viscous fans not working so they are deemed useless, but then again the are a few electric fans that will let you down when you need them as they are rusted up
I fitted 2 x fans to my 110 with the Isuzu in as I had limited space to put the regular fan in
I used thesewww.britpart.com/all-parts/da8966/
Not cheap, but quite good.The sensor fits in the top hose and is adjustable for temperature ( you cut the hose and clamp it in)18 months now and no botherI did buy an override switch for it so you can use it on auto/off/ onNeater than Kenlow in my opinion
Nice kit as it picked off the original rad mountings - there are some that you tie to the core but I don't like them
Only comes on after a run when the truck is stood and there is no air flow and even then they go full pelt for only a short while
Mike
Does the fan take the place of the thermostat meaning that you have to take the thermostat out. Or do you leave it in. ROB.
Rob - you leave the original thermostat in, but there is an electronic one in the housing that goes in the hose - you can then tweak it to suit your needs
Mike
Great video thanks!
Thank you Charles!
Mike
Very useful video.
Airlocks are common on 300Tdis, but less so on 200 I think. My 300 had airlock issues which turned out to be a clogged Y-piece where the thermostat housing and rad expansion lines join the expansion tank hose, under the tank on the Discovery and RRC. After clearing it out with a wire rod (be careful as the plastic gets very brittle with age), I never suffered any more airlocks.
It is surprising how many think the Tee is a valve
When I had access to them, I used to fit some nice brass Y type tees
Not a problem
Range Rover air pressure pump position
EDC