Sail Life - Deck core replacement 99% done! - DIY sailboat refit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ส.ค. 2024
- All of the old core is now removed aboard my sailboat Athena. Join me as I put down the last of the new plywood and foam core.
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You should send the multi-tools to AvE for autopsy. I know you watch his channel because you like to use his *unique* language in your videos. As you know, he often tears apart busted tools (or even working "Chineseium" tools) to see how they are constructed, to asses build quality, or to see where the "magic pixies" lost their way. It would be a GREAT collaboration video.
No idea why it's exciting watching boxes being opened to see what goodies are inside, but it never gets old lol.
Hehe, thanks :)
I think its that christmas feeling from childhood. I get it every time I get a box from Amazon or other online vendor. Even though I know whats inside. :)
You should have just waited until the eye epoxy had set up and then sanded it off. Much less labor and the surface comes out nice and smooth.
Bit of polishing & maybe have permanent contact lense...
You just never know when safety glasses would have been a great idea! Late one day I was working on a transmission I had removed, I had this trans on a bench and I sprayed the cover off with some solvent. I wasn't paying attention as closely as I should; I was a little distracted, I had an appointment to have my Honda VF1000R motorcycle run on a dyno and modified. I wanted to get the cover off the trans before I left, but I didn't notice the small pool of solvent in the head of the allen head bolt I was about to remove. I inserted the allen key into the allen bolt and a small stream of solvent went straight into my eye! The solvent almost immediately began to attack my cornea. I rinsed my eye out quickly but my vision was blurry on that side and of course I was in some pain. You'd have thought I'd go to the doctor, but I had an appointment! I rode the motorcycle the 26 miles to the dyno shop with tears streaming out of that eye... every puff of wind that made it inside my helmet was a stab of pain and more tears! By the time I was done at the dyno shop I felt MUCH better (I'd just had my bike tuned)! My eye still hurt when I rode home but at least it wasn't causing me to tear up. Luckily by the next day I was pretty much back to normal. What ever that is. Hahahaha
Moral of the story... You really ought to wear safety glasses. ; D
Keep it at 5 mill the extra strength will not hurt and run it past the edge if testing shows the heavier glass will conform to the curve. You have lost plenty of weight from removal of the old teak and water soaked core so alway go for the extra designed safety margin you never know when you might need it. Great videos please keep them coming.
You won't regret the 5mm when crossing the Atlantic.
Simply the best DIY channel for boat restoration on the interwebs
Vernier Calipers! Way to rock it old skool, Mads!
I would say your ability to underestimate the amount of work/working time in combination with your impulse of pulling through once you realized what you managed to get yourself into is certainly one of your superpowers :) Your channel most certainly wouldn't be in existence otherwise and the world would be missing hundreds of awesome DIY videos. Keep it up - it's greatly appreciated! :)
Sorry to hear about the injury man and glad your back at it. Well done and thanks for the new video... she is lookin good.
So with your question. FG is oriented for strength against compressive, impact and shear forces. let's talk horizontal force along the layup first. When you orient a biaxial cloth of equal weight, it is the bias of the cloth that is the spreading force and a useful strength. Each direction of the weave is very strong but does not spread force like the bias would. With a sandwich layup, the strength is already VERY high horizontal to the surface. That is why the manufacturer used chopped strand. Think of how you would spread a force direct force or leverage. Also, this is why race boats are very light. They use woven cloth for engineered strength and can be less thick.
Adding a triaxial cloth will increase strength against compression where the degrees of weave are the lowest. Because you are spreading force along more axises of the cloth.
There is also the matter of flex along the surface from compression. I.E. walking on the deck. This force is most fought by not allowing layers to match direction. Also a HUGE benifit to sandwich layups and something chopped strand is pretty good for. This can also be avoided by using small surface area like on the side of the deck. But in large areas you want to cut flex by clocking the weave direction differently in layers. Each layer running a different direction will create a stronger surface over all.
So, is your deck strong? Yes, I think your deck is super strong. Personally, I would prob try to clock the tri across the width of the boat so the 3 weaves go side to side. And, maybe clock one of the bi layers 15 to 20 deg off the others. An engineer could speak better if it would be needed but in aviation we clock layers quite often in high areas of stress.
Lastly is future repair. My thought is this... having thicker material, as you said, will give more impact resistance. But, thicker glass will also give you more material and room for error if you ever have to fix an area. Ending the triaxial before the roundover seems like a great idea to build thickness and cut work.
I'm interested to see what others think and good luck.
Oh... look up how they make carbon masts... I think everything I stated will make a lot of sence when you see that. It may help to explain things as you prob have a good idea the forces on a mast.
My understanding from watching your previous videos is that the deck and cabin joint is held together with only a flange and adjoining fiberglass. With no additional bearing structure below I would think that additional perpendicular strengthening would be advisable. The surface area of the cabin looks fairly large. Broaching waves might be a significant threat to the joint due to the square feet exposed. But, there is also the added weight of equipment, torsional stresses of the hull, and crew walking upon it to consider. It seems to me that your current plan is a good one. More, intelligently placed, is better than less as long as you are not compromising design weight distribution parameters. Make it bomb proof. ;)
Bombproof ey captain! :D Yeah The cost of adding those few extra layers of glass is not that great and as for the weight, I should have plenty of room their (with the teak deck now gone).
Question , Do you layer the glass from edge of the boat to the top like shingles on a house? so that the water does not become trapped by an edge / layer of glass ?
Bruce Kratky i
when you lay up that heavier glass, I'm sure you will be using slow hardener but I would recommend that the shop be warm and that your epoxy be warm also, so it retains its viscosity to saturate the heavier glass fibers but not so warm that it kicks off and starts to catalyze before you get it all down. it's a balancing act but cold epoxy does not flow into heavy cloth very well. learned that one the hard way. also when I watched you lay the cloth on the side decks, I only saw you using a paint brush with a stippling action, to get the cloth worked down into the epoxy. a better and much more efficient way would be to use a fin roller. it not only helps work the epoxy into the glass fiber but it also helps remove any air bubbles. it will also cause any excess epoxy to float to the surface where it could be gently scraped away with a squeegee and then re-rolled to get a much more cohesive laminate. good luck with everything you're doing a great job
If I remember correctly the idea of using plywood instead of foam for the core was to allow some of the running rigging to be attached. I think I would error on the side "more is better" here.
You are correct :) That was one of the main reasons for going with plywood :)
Carl Petersen i
great progress, glad you're not reporting any issues with your skin after handling so much epoxy, hope you get the deck sealed before your deadline.
As you have observed, the heavier weight cloth is less pliable. I would suggest first layer biaxial, followed by one layer triaxial, then finish with the biaxial. If your last layer is CSM, you might have less final sanding and/or print through. If you are putting down all 4-5 layers in one effort (recommended), you may find the triaxial more challenging than the lighter weight cloth. Big areas become challenging when the polyester starts to kick. Glad you will have a team on hand. When you sand down the deck surface for fairing it might be best if you have a little more material in the upper skin to allow for dips and bumps.
Good luck!
Do a test piece with the heavy glass over a radius.
Funny you should say that :) The very last thing I did before leaving the boat today was to put together a test piece that I can apply the heavy glass to tomorrow :)
I'd agree with that.. with the 400g axis in parallel with the edge, it should bend fairly nice.. ofc that is tricky to get with very large pieces due to the curvature, but I'd suggest just use smaller sections for the triaxial and have the overlap with biaxial
Good call... a test piece is a great bit of advice
Depending on wether or not the cabin top and its underlying supports are structural to the mast base (I don't remember where the mast was before the removal)--I would place at least 1 run of 800gm glass all the way around where the cabin top meets the deck --a little more strength in a weak spot subject to rough weather, the stresses of heeling and of course all the times you will be walking all over the cabin top dealing with the sails, couldn't hurt --you got a week to get it all done before Oct1---time to burn some midnight oil!!
Please be safe at all times I would hate for anything to happen to you I enjoy watching your videos thank you
A few things to remember. First, Epoxy resin is stronger than polyester resin, significantly. Second, bi-axel cloth, being woven and stitched , will be stronger than the chop strand used when your boat was built. That's why chopper gun boats have thicker layups. I would venture to guess that your 4 layers of bi-axel with epoxy are stronger and stiffer than the original poly/chop strand combo. Only thing I'd change in the layup is I would alter each layer 10-15 degrees in an opposite direction of the one beneath it. That will result yet in a stronger/stiffer layup .As for the triaxel cloth I'm not familiar with it's use, as it was virtually unavailable where I'm at. Gougeon Brothers are a wealth of info, though you're probably aware of that. As always, great job and great to have friends helping with the messy parts.
Love the guy at 14:24. He's like, WTF is going on over there, who is he talking to...
Your friends are awesome... multiple weekends helping out. Says a lot about both you and your friends.
Well, an eyepatch is not the worst look for a boat captain.
That was what I said on the way to the emergency room! ;)
M X True,....but he'll have to buy a parrot too and i don't know how his dog would react to that.
Then he would need a parrot
Arrrrr
As long as he doesn't add in a peg-leg...
I agree with most of the comments Madds! Go thick! Since your not planning on replacing the teak (which added strength to the deck) I would go thicker for the added strength. It would suck to have to come back and patch a bunch of cracks or holes because it wasn't strong enough. Especially because of the work and time it has taken to redo it! Great video as always!
On the front deck you can now use a vacuum bag. so the edges will form nicely. also with the thicker fiberglass.
Mads you are making absolutely terrific progress, I am so pleased you are getting some good help. On the safety front yeah we all mess up from time to time - your good luck this time was to have friends around you. Working alone is a danger of its own.👍
Hi Norman :) Yeah having cool-headed friends around is always a good thing :) Thanks! Fingers crossed for next weekend :)
If you think the heavier layers will give you issues over the edge of the deck you could try to use the vacuum pump to put even pressure all over or even use sand bags. I think the effor you give this area will be well worth your time in the long run.
I can't speak highly enough of my Dewalt oscillating multi tool. It saved my bacon this weekend and I have many, many hours on that tool and it is still going as strong as the day I bought it. No variable speed switch, but the paddle switch does act as one.
Work looks like its getting along, to answer your questions, I'd put the heavy glass all the way, I'll be honest, your fiberglassing skills are rather stunning, so don't worry about your heavy triaxial making the radii. Personally, I'm of the mindset that there is no such thing as too much fiberglass, especially when it comes out as great as yours does!
When I worked for Fairline boats we would glass over tight radii and sharp edges with tissue & a little chopped glass to fair them out a bit & get right into the corners so as not to leave any tiny voids. regards
Hopefully you might get an engineer's opinion on the weight of glass you will want to apply, all I can say is that even hand laid glass with epoxy is stronger than chopped strand from a gun with polyester by a wide margin. If you manage to vac bag it you get a better epoxy to glass ratio = even stronger. I think if you, at a minimum, meet the original thickness of the top skin you can be very confident that its stronger than the original (maybe twice as strong?). Hopefully Andy from Boatworks Today will chime in on this one. As for the flange, I see you've mentioned below you've already set up a test to see if the heavy tri-axial makes the tight radius. I wouldn't risk it myself, I'd lay a few layers of 3 inch wide glass tape first, but thats just me. Hopefully the test answers those questions and Andy will give you some good advice on both of the proposed questions.
Warm up your epoxy for the layup. It helps to wet out better with such thick material. We always just have one person mixing. That way they can keep an eye on the temp and humidity and mix accordingly. Don't be afraid to use a thinner as well. Wish I could make it over to help with the layup.
I'm glad to here your eye is ok.
Added strength is a good thing. 5mil with the added glass won't hurt as you said. Try the thicker glass and see how it looks over the radius. It might just lay up nice and save some time trimming and cutting the additional glass.
You can definitely go with less glass while maintaining strength and a saving weight. I would suggest setting up a strength test. You have pieces of the old fibreglass - stress a couple of them to see how much load they take before breaking; then do samples of new sandwich layers of glass to see how many layers you need to get the same or slightly better results - you have your answer for how much glass to lay up.
On the multi-tool---my first was the Dremel brand and I swear , over about 3 years I used only about 3hrs and it died. The repair shop told me there were no parts avail and an engineer friend worked on it and said there were like inferior aluminum contacts and it was not savable. The standard Dremel rotating tools I have used for many years with very good service. Over a long period of looking I settled on the Fein unit as a friend who is a commercial builder recommended it and even though it was ungodly expensive I stumbled upon a special sale about 2 years ago. I have used it about less than one half hour over that time until I started on my present boat last Jan----now I use it often but after seeing your experience I am very wary. Perhaps the design of these tools are setting them up to fail. They are so very handy and helpful but all that vibration is hard on the machinery!?--Mikey in Seattle
hi there! enjoy the show ! in reference to your questions about laying up on contours , i have a lot of experience using aircraft spruce's rutan bi directional cloth BID which is 8.8 oz weight. the cloth is cut at a 45 degree angle to the selvage edge, then it will go over amazing contours. hope your BID is the same. i think 3 or 4 layers would be enough ..are you still putting toe rail on? one thing with BID it tends to lengthen and shorten when working it with a brush. i have put down saran wrap,layed up peel ply and the BID layers ( all ends different lengths no edges line up, feathered in) then pat the whole works on and roll it out right through the saran wrap. this even works upside down , 15 psi holding it up after all! , but with your contour you might want to add one layer of cloth at a time. by the way laying up on plastic, then rolling the layup onto some kind of say cardboard tube, then unrolling the whole thing on to pre wet deck may be the way to go for your deck. also be sure to work the peel ply into the layup, wet it out completely. hope this info helps! regards, walter
Over the years I've probably splashed every matter of polyester resin, catalyst, epoxy, etc.. into my eyes. A quick flush has usually been the answer. And yes, I can still see. lol. You are correct in that it's usually some freak-ish splash that does it rather than when the goggles are on.
That is very reassuring to hear ;) If only I had been wearing my regular glasses I could have saved myself the trip to the emergency room :)
The boat is looking amazing. Just makes you think how many boats are out there still sailing with a soft, wet and rotten deck... I would go as planned on the deck but leave it to experts to advise if that is overkill. Things is you don't want to be wishing you had put that extra layer on once all the hardware is back on... That guy top right of shot was funny whilst you were taking to camera...lol. Best of luck his week Mads, boat will be better than new. Andy
+sail life I would make the top skin as thick as it was originally for sure. If your worried about the strength for the cabin top add another later. Like you said weight is not a problem.
am glad to hear that no longer happened and the eye "remained uninjured", keep going . . .
Mads, I told ya, Festool.....buy quality cry once, buy crap cry all the time!
Loving all your hard work and willingness to share.
Cheers,
M
I've never owned a Festool tool - they are just so freaking expensive :) Perhaps I should put one on my wishlist for Christmas ;)
I have noticed that all the professional trades seem to favour Festool these days, I have used one or two of them and they do feel good... it seems to me that the professionals would know best and invest in them for a reason 😀. I guess the judgement to be made is cost versus how much you will be using them in the future...
lost time costs most + you have at least 3 failed tools how much are those
I use a ridgid jobmax, the swapable head is freaking great. Here in the US Festool is not as common as in the EU. Sometimes its worth getting lower quality if the shop you buy from is really close, and turn around time is very low. For example if I bought festool, the nearest dealer to repair or replace is 60 miles away, where as a home depot is less than 10. If that tool is under warranty I will get a replacement walking out the door. If I went with Milwaukee or Dewalt, I have 3 official outlets within 3 miles!
I too favor festool, and have a few of their tools, great stuff. But Bosch is not that off off, and Fein is well made tools as well. Not sure what the hell happened to your multimaster, but mine is still going strong after a few years. I also have a fein shop vac and love that too. Never waste your money on low grade tools.
In redoing my house then a boat. Always wear safety glasses but junk still gets by them - and they fog up in the humid south - but not last weekend. Using construction adhesive to bond pieces of x polystyrene overhead for the first time a big drop missed my eye by a few inches. Lucky! Don't get me started on changing eye shape over 40 and astigmatism with close up eye impalement near misses. I may just get prescription safety glasses and wear them all the time - or lasik.
Toe-Rail... Compare yours to 'Moonshine' on Life is Like Sailing - How to re-seal the Chain Plates 20 seconds in.
Athena's look like they were installed backwards. Reversing them would fix the problem of the channel created between the foam core decline and toe-rail base.
Thank you, I enjoy your videos, attention to detail (wiring, finishes, sanding, etc.) meticulousness, OCD. It hits close to home :)
P.S. Regarding your refrigerator core: Installing it horizontal rather than vertical would allow you to place ice cube trays within (much like mini refrigerators do). It would also be nice to install a lift up counter cover over your stove that slides to store down behind, but it may be too late to design that in.
Thanks
Wow, side decks look good
Thanks! :)
I recommend one coat of epoxy on the eyeball before applying the glass.
No no no,.. apply two coats GLASSES, then apply the epoxy. D'uh! :)
Aloha! 🤙
you are not supposed to use polyester resin over epoxy
I always try to continue with the same or better laminate schedule that the manufacturer used, yours will be good bit better because of using epoxy. Looking good !
I, as usual, have enjoyed your weekly spot of Sunday evening entertainment. However, I personally would layup the heavy matting parallel to the centre line, on the contrary, I would lay it up across the beam of the boat thus I feel it would strengthen the lay of the bond on the core. Just my tuppence worth, either way I look forward to your next video 👍👍
glad you're ok
I get it, really I do! I hate wearing safety goggles! They get hot and fog up! Two words, full face sheiks! It flips up out of the way and protects the entire face! I saw you using your router without any hearing or eye protection. I taught high school shop class, the full face shield is the best way to go and it won't interfere with hearing protection!
You're lucky, my brother's left eye was swollen shut for weeks after a similar situation. However in his case it was freshly made epoxy, i'm thinking that the blob you hosted for a while was past its reaction date.
Myself...i've developed a third sense to always squint at everything i work...would explain why i like to make wide things, like tables.
Next time, don't bother waiting for a hex, use a pair of pliers, works just fine. But if you buy a set of hex keys (or the next one needs replacing) buy the red holder Stanley hex set, i've had one for 10 years at least and they are very good quality. Lived in my motorcycle's "trunk" so it's used regularly on various jobs.
My initial thoughts on the extra glass was a little more would be better and after reading the comments, I think you'll be very happy with the results and glad you did added it. Glad to hear no permanent damage was done to your eye! Be Safe - no more ER visits!! ;-)
What a great video Mad's. Hope your eye gets better.
My weekend is officially over now I've seen this weeks episode. Good night.
Hello, on my 1980 Schock Santana 35: i have a balsa core deck with 2 x 300g roving + 2 x 300g mat in the inner skin. Additionally there is 1 x 500g roving + 1 mat reinforcement on the whole width of the deck (and hull) at the level of the chainplates and mast. You also have a core deck. This is not a plain fiberglass deck. No need to lay a ton of glass. The concept is different. Outer skin of the sandwich works mostly in compression, not stretch. Now if i were you i'd just calculate the stretch resistance of the former outer skin and lay glass in order to achieve the same resistance. No more and no less. Fiberglass boats from 1986 were overbuilt anyway so I would worry about weakening the deck a bit. There is margin for error. Lighter boats behave better so keep the weight down (mine is 3.8 tons for 35 feet long).
Make a mock up of the radius in question layer the mat over until it fails, then go back and wet the mat with the epoxy and you will see how well it conforms. To the radius!
the deck house to deck joint has always looked like a weak spot (some of those gaps you found were outrageous). if it was my boat i would definitely put another layer or 2 across that joint. i might even be tempted to add a layer from the inside (just know your going to love the idea of doing that.)
Safety glasses yes! Also watch out for the zipdisc on your grinder without the guard! It seems like no big deal but if that goes wrong a lot of damage will happen in an instant. I keep that tool in the same category as table saws and butcher knives! Be careful old buddy!
I love all the progress. Your videos are the highlight of my Sundays!
Kudos for (another) AvE reference. That was your warning. I sometimes skipped wearing squints while grinding until a similar event saw a hot chip bounce and land right on the corner next to my eye.
When I was grinding and painting my yacht trailer a month ago I got red oxide paint on my eyeball I too had contacts in and the paint was on and under the contact and felt it drying. Scary but I just flushed my eye with lots of eye wash and eye ointment. Love your videos and humour. Excellent work. Taking the head lining off my jeanneau has been a big job along with grinding with a polycarbide disc let alone doing what your doing.
The top layer of glass is probably thicker than the bottom layer for impact resistance. If you would have wanted to make a stronger deck, increasing the core thickness would have been the most efficient way to do it. In the end it 's the fibers at the top and bottom that carry the weight, everything in between is only there to make it one structure. So as long as you have an equivalent amount of fibres in the top layer as in the old deck, there shouldn't be a problem.
"You'll shoot your eye out!" :) Good luck getting things in order for you October deadline Mads. Cheers from PEI Canada, Bryan.
I wear safety glasses when I work on grinding metal, but still managed to get a bit of stainless flake in my eye. High velocity bits of metal like to bounce off things, like my cheek... directly up into my eye. Now I wear goggles that make full contact after a very painful 4 hours of waiting in the Dr.'s office. It happens to everyone at least once, you are not alone.
Ouch! That does not sound like a fun time! At least the thickened epoxy was nice and soft ;) Yeah stuff like this happens and I'm sure I'll get hurt doing something stupid at least one more time before Athena is back in the water ;)
I bought a pair of full contact prescription safety glasses from my Optician last year. They are the best investment ever. They are so comfortable, wearing them is not a chore and I end up wearing them 99% of the time in the workshop. The cost was a tiny fraction of what your spending on that boat. There's no point sailing around the world if damaged eyesight doesn't let you see it all clearly!
Glad to hear you don't have permanent damage to your eye. Could have happened to most of us. I try to wear safety glasses when working with aerosols or fluids but often 'forget'. Couldn't you just remove the bearing from the router bit?
IF it were me, because the tri-axial matting is so much heavier I would run 4mm there. For the cabin to deck I would not use the heavy tri-axial but it would depend a lot on how tight and/or easy you want that inside radius to go at the bottom of the cabin. The heavier tri-axial matting will require more time to form properly to that inside radius so if you do go that route mix in more curing time. A long length of wooden dowel rod of the proper radius wrapped in cellophane tape so as not to stick to the exopy might be good guide for that inside radius to keep it consistent. Could save you a lot of that sanding you love so much. And no, I am no pro at fiberglass work.
spencer marshall I
add the 800 gram on the cabin sides extra safety margin is never a bad thing and as I said previously you have lost alot of weight with the removal of the teak and wet core.
Mads almost became "Captain Ron" !
So close! Fingers crossed for next time ;)
Mads, this is my favorite channel, always look forward to see the progress.
No told you so from me, I'm not the greatest at always using eye protection myself but I do have a suggestion. I REALLY prefer to wear a full face mask rather than safety glasses. Its much cooler, doesn't fog up, is easy to flip up and down when you dont need it and is much more comfortable to to wear with corrective glasses. Something like the UVEX S8500.
Personally I would use 2 layers tri-axial and then 2-4 layers bi-axial for both questions. At this point it's cheap and strong insurance and can be accomplished while indoor. Keep up the good work.
Love seeing your progress each week. Sorry I can't offer any advise, I just wanted to say thanks for the great videos. See you!
Glad Your eye is OK! BTW you can remove the ballbearing from the tip of the router bit. it's attached with the allen bolt.
Congratulations !!! You have made a lot of progress and it looks GREAT.
I have a question... Why a toerail at all? I honestly don't know it's use. I'm learning from you!
If you edged the whole boat in plywood instead of foam under the fiberglass and make it level with the rest of the foam core deck buildup, you would have a strong surface to anchor the cable rail stanchions.
You don't need toerail for line pulleys if you're going along the side decks with your lines...
You don't have the expense of acquiring a toerail.
You won't have the potential leaks from the penetrations that a toerail requires.
You won't have a trench that gathers water and grime and holds it against the side of the deck buildup.
You could glass from the deck over the edge and down the side a bit, increasing the corner strength, increasing deck to hull bonding, and getting a straight drain off the deck and over the side down the entire length of the boat...
Also, an easier profile to lay fiberglass over...
Seems you now have some very close neighbours in the shed... I bet they are really happy with your, probably not so clean, work! ;)
I have so done the tape-the-cord-to-the-tool fix. If it works it works.
Deck looks great!
Awesome video Mads.
Glad you didn't damage your eye....keep up the good work!
That is a crazy amount of progress! Keep it up Mads
Congratulations on reaching this milestone!
Have you looked at the book "Principles of Yacht Design" by Larsson & Eliasson. On Figure "12.14 Forces on a sail on a sailing boat", it gives you a great pictorial example of the yachts forces as does that whole chapter. (Hull Construction). In the next chapter it gives examples of how to carry out calculations for various materials. Doing a great job, keep it up and hope to see you out there soon. take care.
Paul
You may have a career directing in Holywood. Your skills are great for these videos. Good on you.
You should put 2 pallets at the bottom of the ladder and use them for standing on to put protective covers on your boots, it will save you a lot of work in the long run, good luck with the final prep work, it is coming along nicely.
Hey Skinny, the core replacement looks blooming brilliant.
As to your glassing plans they sound OK to me. There is always a danger of over strengthening one part of the structure and passing the load to a weaker point. But I imagine that the hull laminate is pretty thick.
When I was involved in composite aircraft repair the rule was to replicate the layup of the original. We would take a sample of the bit we were going to replace, note the orientation and then burn the resin off with a blow torch. We could then see what layers made up the original and which direction they ran. We could reproduce the original structure accurately. The final repair would be as strong as the original and with no increase in weight.
I think I'm just saying to reproduce the original structure and don't try to re-engineer a boat that's been around for 40 years without failing?
Hey bud glad to see your boat coming along good sure be nice to sail with you one day
Thanks Mads once again excellent video, cant wait to see this boat finished
Try a small test piece of the thicker glass and see if it works
Tri-axial is not like bi-axial. Biaxial is woven like cloth. The fibers are corrugated as a result. In contrast, the tri-axial is basically three sets of straight fiber uni-axial oriented at 60deg to one another. I believe you already know this because you plan to align the heaviest weight fore-aft. The two lighter weight uni-directionals will handle torsion in the deck.
I think your assumption that equates 5mm upper deck skin to localized deformation in the deck is a good assumption. While there are online calculators one can use to solve for sandwich construction, they are useless without a decent load to input as boundary conditions. Since you don't have boundary conditions worth a damn, your plan is the next best thing.
Remember, the deck of your boat was rotten garbage, until recently. Yet, she happily made the passage to Denmark. For this reason I think you could drop down to 4mm, if you wanted. Unidirectional fibers are significantly stronger than chopstrand, and epoxy even more so, when compared to vinylester.
All in all, the deck is looking fantastic, you've done your research. It's gonna rock.
Another great video, I'm really glad your eye is ok.
Glad you are allright!
Yes always have eye protection, you will only ever get two at most loosing one is not good , fab videos.
Crikey! Glad your peepers are ok!
Excellent informative video as always. Many thanks Mads
I can appreciate those tools breaking.... What about your hands? I just used my new bosch cordless variant to remove the cabintop windows on my boat. The tool is a God send. I'm sure it would have taken ages with a scraper and mallet! However, I must say that my right hand feels positively arthritic! Carpal tunnel much?
The extra thickness is a wonderful idea, as others have said, you have lost plenty of weight elsewhere. I would suggest a 1st layer of the bi-axial set with weave longitunally & laterally all the way out to the edge,around the curves. Then the tri-axial as you described, stopping short of the curve. Then as many more layers as you need for thickness of bi-axial, but I would lay the next layer as you did on the side deck with strand on the 45 deg., then if only one more next like the 1st layer longitudinally & laterally. If your doing more layers alternate. My main thought on the 1st layer being bi-axial is the bond that is directly to the core is most critical and shouldn't have a seam all around the edge. That's like a tear here strip. Then the short thicker layer is sandwiched. As a bonus your first layer completely seals the core. Changing orientation is strength and also eliminates accidentally aligning seams. Great work, keep it up!
I would say, if it's not horrendously expensive, put on those extra layers of fibre glass. In the end, you will be thankful for every bit of rigidity in your boat when sailing the oceans!
I'm not an expert though
I don't have any expertise in boat manufacturing. That said, nothing over built requires repair. Hope the yellow haze you were seeing returns to normal.
Hi Mads - have you ever thougt of getting a Peltier fan to put on top of your stove? They are pretty easy and cheap to build yourself, and from what i have heard, they work great at spreading the heat to the whole boat. :)
I'm glad I'm not the only one who runs things down to the wire. Is that frowned upon in Denmark or are people OK with it?
Mads, I love your videos and hope one day to start a project like your Athena. I had a question, I know you said that small piece of plywood on the foredeck in front of the cabin top was solid and good, but, you replaced the core EVERYWHERE else.... Are you planning on replacing that little piece of old wood???? I'm losing sleep on this.... j/k Thanks again for the videos!!!!