dude you are a major help to the world off diy guys. everyone is saying it becos you madde it simple to not to screwup and so much more.glad I'm doing mines slow so i didnt find info like this after the fact thanks
Out of all the deck videos I have watched, yours is definitely the best and most informative. You are exceptional at explaining each step which answers many questions. Thank you!
There's a little bracket you can butt up against the first piece of decking and screw to joist, Grooved trex slides right in. No face screws on second piece
i noticed you have blocking between the joist on top of your beam. Is that to prevent the deck from swaying? I'm asking because mine has a little sway and was wondering if the way you did your blocking could help. Thanks in advance.
The blocking adds additional support for the joists over the beams and ensures they cannot “roll over” and cause a potential collapse. Additionally, because they are offset every other joist they effectively cancel out any vibration waves (think of your finger resting on a guitar string), which stops any sway or feeling of movement when people are walking (or dancing) on the deck. Hope this helps!
@@spanky762 Thanks for your reply. So it helps but not to the point of preventing the sway of the deck. I would definitely need a knee bracing or v bracing underneath to stop the sway, right? Any recommended alternative?
@@jacm7256 I just added a part 5 video to this series to show the diagonal bracing I also have (in addition to the blocking). Hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/b-6f0-jekzY/w-d-xo.html
Couple of honest questions. Should you router a groove in the one end of the bull nose board so you can use a clip there? Also, is there supposed to be more spacing on the miter cuts? They seem tight (look great) Finally, I read somewhere you have to use special tape for the trex decking, not butyl or whatever it is... Thanks for the great video and all the detail!
I’ve never used a router on composite decking (Trex or others). The composite material is extremely strong, and considering that they cut grooves into it at the factory, I suspect that using a router to cut your own groove would work just fine -just remember that you would be working with what is essentially a plastic, and not a wood-based product. Trex has their own branded butyl tape. I have used it as well as the stuff that you can buy at the big box stores. And the truth is, I found the Trex tape to be of higher quality. However, it is usually much more expensive than the others. If you can get it on a special sale then buy it.
Makes sense!! Thanks! Looks great. I’m just starting to lay my trex decking down. I’m doing a picture frame and It’s harder than I thought. I need more blocking. I had put additional blocking on but I need more... Have a great weekend
When you did the 1st picture frame board did you have to cut it longer than the deck in order to get your 2 1/2" over hang on each side also? So if the deck is 12' wide would you cut it an extra 5 inches to get the 2 in half inches of overhang on both sides?
Yes, I have overhang both lengthwise and widthwise. However, I think 2 1/2 inches might be a bit excessive -especially over steps where people can put weight on the overhang edge. I think 3/4 to 1 inch would be better.
Really turned out nice .. I’m in the process of swapping out my treated for composite , so I picked up some good pointers , did you buy riser boards for your steps or did you use decking for your risers (fascia) ?
I used fascia material manufactured by Trex. It is similar to the decking material, but not quite as heavy duty or costly, as it is not designed to be walked upon.
Does it matter what type of tape is used. for Composite. Why butyl. Can it just be lowes deck tape which is for this purpose. Will it chemically react with the composite or pvc
It does matter what type of tape is used. It needs to be butyl tape for decking. The butyl tape swells and makes a watertight seal around any screws which go through it, which puts off rotting of the underlying beams or joists. I am pretty sure that Lowes decking tape is butyl tape.
Yes, it is surprisingly easy to work with. It does expand and contract lenghtwise during hot/cold weather, so some gap is needed, but not a huge one; I think 1/16 inch per 10 foot would be plenty.
Unfortunately no, I didn't get a proper one filmed on doing the stair stringers. This (part 2) is a general overview wherein I describe them. Hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/LJ_uWLqWl0U/w-d-xo.html
dude you are a major help to the world off diy guys. everyone is saying it becos you madde it simple to not to screwup and so much more.glad I'm doing mines slow so i didnt find info like this after the fact thanks
Out of all the deck videos I have watched, yours is definitely the best and most informative. You are exceptional at explaining each step which answers many questions. Thank you!
Thank you!
Finally someone explaining the frame for the framing, cheers
Thank you!
You got some talent there buddy looks very professional, and I like the "tidal gray" decking boards.
Thank you sir! I appreciate it.
Looks great man!
Thank you sir!
Really nice work! What railing and post system is that? Very sharp…thanks!
@@ianmackey6097 Trex
There's a little bracket you can butt up against the first piece of decking and screw to joist, Grooved trex slides right in. No face screws on second piece
Really? Fantastic. I will look into this. Thanks!
@@spanky762 You can also router a groove into the square edge board. It only needs to be big enough for the fastener.
Did you give any consideration to using the trex Cortex concealment bit with the plugs?
To be honest, until this moment I didn't even know that was a thing. ;-)
Hidden fasteners have a small clip for securing the 1st board instead of screwing through that edge. Its made to hold like the other hidden fasteners.
i noticed you have blocking between the joist on top of your beam. Is that to prevent the deck from swaying? I'm asking because mine has a little sway and was wondering if the way you did your blocking could help. Thanks in advance.
The blocking adds additional support for the joists over the beams and ensures they cannot “roll over” and cause a potential collapse. Additionally, because they are offset every other joist they effectively cancel out any vibration waves (think of your finger resting on a guitar string), which stops any sway or feeling of movement when people are walking (or dancing) on the deck. Hope this helps!
@@spanky762 Thanks for your reply. So it helps but not to the point of preventing the sway of the deck. I would definitely need a knee bracing or v bracing underneath to stop the sway, right? Any recommended alternative?
@@jacm7256 I just added a part 5 video to this series to show the diagonal bracing I also have (in addition to the blocking). Hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/b-6f0-jekzY/w-d-xo.html
Couple of honest questions. Should you router a groove in the one end of the bull nose board so you can use a clip there?
Also, is there supposed to be more spacing on the miter cuts? They seem tight (look great)
Finally, I read somewhere you have to use special tape for the trex decking, not butyl or whatever it is...
Thanks for the great video and all the detail!
I’ve never used a router on composite decking (Trex or others). The composite material is extremely strong, and considering that they cut grooves into it at the factory, I suspect that using a router to cut your own groove would work just fine -just remember that you would be working with what is essentially a plastic, and not a wood-based product.
Trex has their own branded butyl tape. I have used it as well as the stuff that you can buy at the big box stores. And the truth is, I found the Trex tape to be of higher quality. However, it is usually much more expensive than the others. If you can get it on a special sale then buy it.
And yes, I probably should have allowed an additional 1/8 inch or so more spacing. Thanks!
Makes sense!! Thanks! Looks great. I’m just starting to lay my trex decking down. I’m doing a picture frame and It’s harder than I thought. I need more blocking. I had put additional blocking on but I need more...
Have a great weekend
When you did the 1st picture frame board did you have to cut it longer than the deck in order to get your 2 1/2" over hang on each side also?
So if the deck is 12' wide would you cut it an extra 5 inches to get the 2 in half inches of overhang on both sides?
Yes, I have overhang both lengthwise and widthwise. However, I think 2 1/2 inches might be a bit excessive -especially over steps where people can put weight on the overhang edge. I think 3/4 to 1 inch would be better.
Really turned out nice .. I’m in the process of swapping out my treated for composite , so I picked up some good pointers , did you buy riser boards for your steps or did you use decking for your risers (fascia) ?
I used fascia material manufactured by Trex. It is similar to the decking material, but not quite as heavy duty or costly, as it is not designed to be walked upon.
Does it matter what type of tape is used. for Composite. Why butyl. Can it just be lowes deck tape which is for this purpose. Will it chemically react with the composite or pvc
It does matter what type of tape is used. It needs to be butyl tape for decking. The butyl tape swells and makes a watertight seal around any screws which go through it, which puts off rotting of the underlying beams or joists. I am pretty sure that Lowes decking tape is butyl tape.
Can trex be mitred and does it need a gap or tight together on the miter
Yes, it is surprisingly easy to work with. It does expand and contract lenghtwise during hot/cold weather, so some gap is needed, but not a huge one; I think 1/16 inch per 10 foot would be plenty.
You have a video on them steps?
Unfortunately no, I didn't get a proper one filmed on doing the stair stringers. This (part 2) is a general overview wherein I describe them. Hope this helps! th-cam.com/video/LJ_uWLqWl0U/w-d-xo.html
@@spanky762 yes thank you just watched it. Excellent advice