B7 Audi A4 Front Shocks Replacement The Easy Way 2005-2008
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Step by step guide on How to Replace The Front Shocks on a B7 Audi A4. I replaced the blown front shocks and also installed some new bump stops. This should be applicable on the Audi A4 quattro's from these years 2005-2008.
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First video to see someone avoid the ball joints pinch bolt, smart 👍 Great video man!
Much respect and thanks for watching! 👍🏽
Sorry my dude but before you tightened everything back up you forgot to pre-load the suspension first.
Not pre-loading the suspension will cause the rubber bushes to wear out prematurely in the upper arms, lower arms. Look into it dude.
Apart from that it is a very good video showing what to do without removing the pita pinch bolt.
Can anyone describe how to preload the system? I see this comment a lot but I want to know how people do it, especially on this car. Obviously if the car is on the ground, there's limited clearance for all the control arm bolts.
@@st.ckneyyy pre loading means putting the suspension at ride height, and tightening everything at that point. this way the bushings are "at rest" when at ride height and can flex in both directions when going over bumps. If you tighten everything with the suspension fully extended (car on lift) the bushings will be under severe stress when car is at ride height already, and even more so when compressing when passing bumps, so they will wear more.
@@lukaszM46thanks but I get WHY you should do it, but HOW is it normally done? Hard to get a torque wrench on the bolts when the car is on the ground.
@@st.ckneyyy whenever i do any suspension work and the car is on jackstands, i lift the suspension with a jack (by the bottom of lower control arm usually) to where its more or less at ride height and tighten everything at that point, as the wheel is off and i have access
I struggled with why I couldn't align my UCA's but then realized, you put the LCA bolt in last. Helped a ton. My daughter is going to think I'm amazing cause I won't tell her you gave me the cheat codes. Thanks a ton man, love the videos.
Lol, I'm happy I was able to help, thanks for watching 😁
Thank you. Once again, you are a superb instructor.
Much respect and thanks for always watching!
Great instructional video. Now I know why these necessary shocks replacements are going to cost so much when taken to an auto shop. Hope to get someone such as you who knows what they are doing.
a first rate video.. clear, calm, user-aware, confidence-inspiring.. way to go Crafty Workshop Builds!
Ты очень крут, самые информативные видео по B7, которые я видел за полследние 4 года 💪
Very good tutorial, had a little bit of issue with the steering joint bolt beeing seized but except from that everything went smooth :)
This is defo the best to do if your top arms are in good condition and you dont want the headache of doing pinch bolt.
Exactly, the pinch bolt is a real pain to get out, if it's seized.
You should have 10x the subscribers dude! Amazing videos!!!
Beautiful brother!
respect 💪🏽
Nice clear vids, 1 more cup of coffee and I’m outside to do my rears 👍👍👍🚘🚘 thank you from north of Scotland.
Thanks for watching! shout out to everyone who's watching from Scotland👍🏽
Good video, nicely done young man.
This looks to be about the same process for the S4, and the RS4.
The perfect video!
This is definitelyyy the easiest way to do it
Excellent video. Very well done. You got yourself another subscriber.
Much respect, Welcome aboard!
I like the bit about jacking up the the other side of the car to release the tension before undoing the sway bar link. Is that to allow the lower control arm to move down so that the strut has no tension when removing and refitting the lower strut bolt?
much respect! yes, correct👍🏽
Thank you
much respect!
Bravo 👌🏻👌🏻. . Good camera , explained well.
Much respect!
Outstanding job and video. No torque-ing ? Thanks, man.
You should replace the front upper shocks mounts while you have it apart. Fairly cheap to replace.
Excellent work.
Much respect!
thank you for the video !!!!!!!
doing mine on wednesday. arnt you supposed to put a load on the suspension when tightening the bottom bolt ? thanks
Your vids are always professional quality and paced well. Couple questions on this one: 1) at 12:30-12:33 there is a thin bar secured to the rotor - what is that? 2) can you comment on using the secondary jack on the LCA to adjust pressure? Thx! 🙏👍
Much respect 🙏🏾. The thin bar on the rotor is a magnetic flashlight, the link for it is in the description. I place the jack by the lower control arm closer to the ball joint and rotor, I then use the jack to raise the control arm along with the strut assembly, this helps to align the holes for the strut mount at the top.
Great video
Good clear instructive. Is there not a top arm height measurement I've heard people talk about ?
Thanks! If you're talking about the upper control arms, the stock ones can't be adjusted. You'll need to get aftermarket ones that have the adjustable feature.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds I heard that they have to be the upper arms have to be tightened up at a certain measurement so you don't get excessive strain on the bushes therefore wearing the bushes quicker ?
@@fraserlivingstone1244 pre loading the suspension before tightening the top arms will give you the measurement your talking about. Your 100% correct my dude in what your trying to tell him.
The adjustable top arms are more for getting the camber set correctly.
Fitting aftermarket coilovers and lowering the car will cause premature inner shoulder tyre wear on the front tyres.
I have owned a v6 a4 b7 for 14 years now and have probably read and fixed everything there is to read and fix on them lol
One love🫶
Hello,
You have made a small mistake. When fitting the upper control arms, tighten them in the lowered position of the car or raise the steering knuckle on a jack. On a lowered wheel, when the car drops on the wheels, the bushings will be broken or wear out faster.
Awesome video 👍
Much respect 🙏
Man this is awesome..what would I need to do if I was replacing the springs
Same process, just install the new spring after you remove the top hat.
Great job. I have a right hand drive 2007 B7 Audi RS4 cabriolet and I have a recurring problem where the upper arm bushes keep breaking and makes as squeak sound when I get in and our or drive on uneven surfaces. The whole car now bounces out of control on uneven roads. Could it be a shock issue or a bigger suspension problem?
How much should I be paying to have the drivers front shock fitted
So i only need to jack up one side before and then undo top bolts under bonnet or undo them when on ground?
Thanks 💪
Much respect!
Excellent video, can I get advice from you please? I had replacement 2weeks ago I have done 300miles. My wheel arche is 5finger from tyre. Car is extremely high now. Garage saying they got correct shocks. What do you think?
hi, would you be doing a video on removing the intake manifold on this car? it would be great help so i can carbon clean.
Thanks!
If you could make a video on how to change the pistons and rings, due to oil burning, it would be of great help.
If I come up on a project like that, I'll definitely make a video.
Hello and welcome. I have a question because I can't find a clear and lucid answer at all. On Audi forums and websites, "experts" instead of helping only confuse me. So, a question. I want to slightly lower the front (A4 B7) because after putting on the 18's it looks like a fire truck. Can I replace only the springs and leave the old shock absorbers? I have standard 1BA suspension and weight class 11. If I put 1BE springs from weight class 11 on 1BA shock absorbers, will it be a safe solution? Is it possible to do this at all or do I have to replace the whole thing, i.e. the springs and shock absorbers, to lower the suspension a bit? Please note that I don't want to do rustic tuning, I just want the front to look normal and the gap to be the same across the entire wheel arch. Thank you in advance for your answer.
If you can find the appropriate lowering springs yes it will work. I've lowered cars like that before. But keep in mind, that might shorten the lifespan of the stock shocks.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds
Thank you for the info.
I have another question because you mentioned that you've practiced combining 1BA shock absorbers with 1BE springs. I'm specifically concerned about safety aspects. How does it handle at higher speeds, above 60mph? A stiffer front than the rear in a four-wheel-drive car... hmm, this worries me a bit. Simply put, if I have to do something that I don't like visually at the expense of safety, I'd rather leave it as is or maybe switch entirely to the 1BE suspension. What are your thoughts on this?
thank you
Respect!
It would be awesome to see a video for the rear springs
good job man, you made it easy
Thanks! I did make a video on the rear, check the link in the description.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds yeah I saw that video but that was only the shocks, I was hoping for the springs
The problem is my fork is sitting too low after I take the shock bolt out and now I can’t get it back in place it doesn’t sit low enough for me to move it back into place what do I do
Please tell me what causes the upper strut brackets to get damaged .this is the second sets I have changed after changing all the front suspension parts. I am so frustrated.
what part of the brackets get damaged?
The inner circular sleve
rien que quand je vois l'appareil pour comprimer les ressorts j'en ai des frissons combien yen a qui on pris les doigts dedans😢
Are the bilsteins thicker than the stock shock?
The bolt with the 16mm nut for the tie rod end is completely stuck for me. Any tips on how to get it out? Ive tried wd40 and a heat gun and hammering it, but no luck so far... hammering i
Watch this video and see how I removed a seized bolt like that th-cam.com/video/Nf33UZSDUpQ/w-d-xo.html
The difference is that the audi have an aluminum arm, so you have to be extra careful to not break the arm.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds will take a look and give it another try tomorrow. Thanks!
No, prob
what is the block you use to lift the car with your jack? at the very beginning of the video? is it just a piece of wood?
it's just a block of 2x4 wood, I use it as a cushion.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds thanks, i was wondering when i saw it as on my B8 car, the actual lifting point is very narrow, which makes it hard to put a jack stand there, while lifting with a jack at pretty much the same spot. strangely enough its the only lift point i could find, manual even says you should not lift by front subframe as its aluminium, which is weird as it should be the strong point
Yes, I know what you mean. I have the same issue. when I need to put jack stands at the lifting points, I usually use a longer 2x4, and jack up from a little further down beside the lifting point. I thought about making a video showing my jacking up techniques.
@@CraftyWorkshopBuilds i would watch that, please do!
Teşekkürler
Forget the shocks change those disks lmao