How To Porsche Oil Change With SECRET TIPS !!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ต.ค. 2020
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How To Porsche Oil Change With SECRET TIPS !
In this video i show how to change and reset your oil and service light in your porsche cayman boxster 987 For Business Contact :
Nathan's Porsche Workshop
Po Box 115 Altenburg Mo 63732
nathan.youtube@yahoo.com - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Good video Nathan ! Glad you got her all cleared up
I Remember changing the oil on this customer's car and he was very inquisitive and wanted to watch he also had a nice suit and white shirt on and when I was about to pull the plug I warned that the oil might spatter a bit and he said that's fine. Well so much for that nice white shirt. Some people just have to learn the hard way 😁 Great video Nathan.
Good info Nate as always
Thanks Nathan you made it easy for me! I was wondering what that plastic thing on the bottom of the filter was lol.
It means your oil filter canister is broken and needs to be replaced. That piece should be stuck to the bottom of the oil canister, not the oil filter.
Hey Nathan LN Engineering as well as many other Porsche mechanics recommend adding the oil to 1 bar under the maximum which is a little under the owners manual of 7.75 L or so.
Nice car-bridge Nathan :)
The sump nut and the oil filter housing both have torque settings, also the oil filter should be cut open to best observe if any metal shavings are present. Just saying.
Dude does not know what he is doing....sadly people are watching this getting a false sense of how to check for things and do an oil change.
Could you have pre-filled the oil filter canister with some oil to protect the engine on first start. Just asking because I have no experience with Porsche.
You can fill the oil filter cap 1/2 to 3/4 with fresh oil before installing back on car.
Yep! The oil pump takes care of the empty space very quickly but, if you want to, you won’t be hurting anything
Watch out for those oil shavings.
Mahle is a brand of oil filter. When you take your Porsche to the dealer that is what they use. Even worse you installed the filter wrong. You place the filter in the cup and then attach it to the car with a little oil on the O ring. You need the right tool for the oil filter. That tool you are using is for replaceable oil filters. Not fixed canisters that need to be replaced. They can crack the plastic as they are not stable when using them. Get the right tools for the job.
You ALWAYS replace the crush washer. Never reuse the crush washer!
The clutter in that shop is annoying and you are having to work around it and it's keeping you from being exact and looking like you know what you are doing.
Show us your shop and how you do it.
Oil filter is MAHLE and it is good quality filter, they produce filters for BMW as OEM, just fyi
Are oil shavings the oil equivalent of grated cheese or butter I'm so confused
Oil shavings are a rarely experienced but very troubling automotive phenomenon.
You should coat the new o-ring on the canister with fresh motor oil to ensure a better seal.
Hey did that, even mention that in the video...
Wish you woulda shown us the oil fill gauge on the dash. I've always been confused on which line we're supposed to fill it too. That visual information is nearly impossible to find online. I'd love to see a picture of just the gauge showing me the "top line" I'm supposed to fill it to. No one ever shows us the gauge. You showed us every step of the way with this oil change and low and behold... no shots of the oil fill gauge. You make that video, you'll get a million views on it.
I don't think your oil change makes any sense. So you say you take 10W40 because the 0W40 is too thin - which causes scoring. Now, the 10 and 0 tell you how the oil behaves under cold conditions upon starting the engine from cold. But your oil warms up after a few minutes and then it is at 90-105 C or so all the time, so 99% of running the engine, the 40 part of the XW40 is relevant, not the figure in front of the the W... so if you think you need thicker oil, you have totally failed to understand what's going on... They are both exactly the same viscosity both being "40" under running conditions, except for until the engine gets out of conditions well below freezing point, i.e.0W40 goes all temp ranges, while 10W40 "only" goes down to -25C... what you do has no effect, certainly not the one you have in mind.
Please can you clarify this for me as I’m about to change my oil in the next few weeks and I hear all sorts of opinions, I have a minor valve cover leak and was also told it may help with a slightly thicker oil, should I go 0/40 5/40 10/40
I have moved to Cyprus so minimum temp here is 20c to 35c
Big tick from me for the 10w40 recommendation ! 0 weight oil is way too thin for these cars n matter how someone will explain oil weights and viscosity, that thin oil and long service intervals is the biggest killer of these engines , all the big porsche specialists recommend thicker oil than spec
Just like Nathan, you don't have a clue what the oil spec means, how about you read the 987 owner's manual, where exceptionally, this actually gets explained in an owner's manual, of course outside of this being explained generally for what oil ratings mean in any oil rating explanation? This is terrible :) I told this Nathan above like a week ago or so, but seems he does not care, or maybe he thinks as a "pro" he somehow naturally knows better. Well, he does not, this is objectively so. If you want thicker oil, you need to look at the number BEHIND the W, not in front of it.
@@Baerchenization I had a 987 when they were failing for fun with bore score , IMS , and lifter failures , and used a Porsche specialist called hartech in the uk , they opened my eyes with these engines so I’m afraid it is you that’s wrong , and the manual might well explain oil viscosity, but the thin oils and long service intervals were the real issue with these engines , the oil needed to be changed more often and at least 5 weight oil the 0 weight oil use to make my car knock and rattle on start up where as even 5 weight oil stopped that , the 0 weight oil is way to thin at start up to form a film of oil to lubricant everything when it’s cold , and with the temperatures in my country not cold enough to warrant the 0 weight oil
@@christopherwright1795 No, I am never wrong, that's why I am so fucking awesome... ;) the number BEHIND the W tells you the viscosity. Now, the easiest way for you to understand how you are wrong is to tell me how I am wrong... then we will get to the bottom of this. You are off to a bad start, like your UK shop, because oil does not have any "weight" specification, it is a WINTER specification, which especially for the UK (where I am as well) is entirely irrelevant. So do explain, and if you are interested in getting it right, I am happy to help you. Not that I possess secret knowledge, you could google it for yourself and never come back... Jesus Christ. Every car mechanic should know this and there is no excuse for not knowing it. OK, maybe you think you just found an idiot online, so why don't you start with how the Porsche owner's manual explaining the oil specs (like every other oil spec explanation) is wrong? Then we have a base line...
@@Baerchenization I fully
Understand it
And have experience with these engines but your welcome to
Put what ever oil you like in your car using what ever rationale you see fit !
@@christopherwright1795 No you don't understand anything, because since there is a disagreement, you had the opportunity to check, but you didn't.
The number in front of the W is the cold temp rating. You cannot readily see what it means, you need to know/look it up. Since it is a standard, you could generally google it, or look it up in your owner's manual, where you find the same information for convenience. So what does it mean? 5W--- means up to ca -25C, 0W--- means ANY temp, e.g. -40C or -40F, which is the same thing... or even colder.
Now, let's think about the relevance of that for a second, before looking in to the other number. For you personally, in the UK, it basically never gets -25C, not even close. Most enthusiasts don't even drive their Porsche in winter, but let's just assume you do - like I daily mine, in London, and I do get a few days with up to -10C or even -15C in January. So a 5W-- would be fine, as it is specified for up to -25C.
Now, if you were to actually drive your car even under those extreme conditions, then the oil would start out at, say, -20C one winter morning and then within the next 10-15 minutes, would reach operating temp of ca +100C (I don't know the exact 987 operating temp). So this is what we are actually dealing with: outside of the short time span of the engine reaching operating temp, it is always in that operating temp, e.g. +/- 100C. THAT is were the number BEHIND the W becomes relevant, as that tells you the viscosity at operating temp / i.e. when the oil is hot. This is entirely detached from whether you are living in Italy, Scotland or Nevada, because the engine cooling system always keeps the engine at the same operating temp, no matter where, or whether it is winter or summer, e.g my engine tem is +105C in winter in London, but also in the Italian Alps in summer with +40C in the mountains.
According to Porsche, due to wear etc only historic Porsche need a --W50 or -- W60 oil. Now, if you wish to ignore that and want to fill a thicker oil irrespectively, then you would fill a viscosity according to what it states BEHIND the W, well, because that is what specifies the relevant viscosity. So if you think the prescribed oil for a 987 is too thin, then you need an e.g --W50, NOT a 5W--- ... you literally don't know what you are talking about. And I don't want to super diss you over it, but if that is what a professional garage told you and that is where you got your wisdom from, they simply don't have the first clue what they are talking about. And while I love Nathan's work for all these years, he has simply shown that he never understood what oil specs actually mean. So now you have the opportunity to not come back here in 2 minutes and instead verify this for yourself, and if you really want thicker oil, then you know what to do. But what it is not is anything 5WFOURTY!!! The SAE spec has it that ALL oils at the same temp behave the same, so all W40 are the same viscosity, no matter what - or else it would be a pointless spec, isn't it? That is how it is, that is what the spec says, that is naturally what Porsche say and every else is how it is not. Like your UK garage is wrong.
Just take it to your local Porsche dealer and it will. Save the mess.
10 quarts of oil Man That is on a 986
Wrong sir 0 or 5 is the way to go
nothing special here