400 hp at the wheels out of a m112k is impressive. I made 440 hp and 495tq but that was with nitrous. I’m seriously considering stacking with my 65mm and seeing what it can do.
400whp in an auto 2wd should be very close to 500hp at the crank. To support this you'd need dual 2.5 into single 3.5 exhaust. Dual 2.75 into single 4 will support about 630-640hp at the crank. Dual 2.625 into single 3.75 will support about 570hp and dual 3 into single 4.25 will support about 740hp. So you might want to look into potential exhaust restrictions. Also, for a future build, look into the Chevy LV1/LV3 platform V6. I'm very confident that with the right headwork and narrow LSA cam (AKA a David Vizard style build) you can make 400whp N/A with that engine at stock displacement, and up to 450whp with a big bore+big valve build. An FBO and cammed engine can also put down more than 750hp and torque at the crank with a turbo. And given that it has only one exhaust valve per cylinder, the same exhaust setup should produce similar sounds. The goat swap would be an LV3 combo'd with a ZF 8-speed using a Turbolamik trans controller. You can even hook up a third pedal to that and run it like a manual, or a budget-friendly version of Koenigsegg's lightspeed transmission if you know anything about those. Not to mention the other functions the Turbolamik gives you with the ZF8 or how a ZF8 with the 'Lamik is almost as easy as a 4L80 swap.
As far as dyno numbers are concerned that is better than it would seem to most, Because the drag radial is soaking up a ton of your final power number. But that's just a number that doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things. Also the car appears to be spark knocking heavily especially in the high load ranges showing visible puffs out the exhaust in the video. The dyno graph and inside video confirm that because the car is pulling around 15-22 degrees constantly out of the commanded timing. That amount of timing retard is massive power loss. Obviously you have done a great job with the cooling and iat's, So that being said if it's knocking with iat's that low, It has too much timing in it and for the octane present. If it's currently just on premium pump gas and you want it that way without meth injection or the fuel system and e85. Try adding a good quality octane booster like vp octanium unleaded, Boostane, or mix in a some unleaded race fuel with the pump gas and datalog that to see if you can get the knock eliminated at those timing numbers. If its still knocking have the tuner creep the timing back down until it's good. Tough task to make safe consistant power down in that climate with stacked pullies. But If you made that power with those factors, Close to 500whp isn't out of the question with just a street tire on the rear and some added octane/tune revisions to keep the timing in a happy range on a hot florida day. At that point it will run like crazy in the heat of summer and just be better in the cool weather. Great job on the vids! i've seen some good content from you since running across the channel!
It isn't that. This guy (and many others) think V-Tech tunes are a good idea. They are at first because you feel a stronger pull than the likes of Eurocharched etc. BUT what they don't understand is that they are running extremely rich. The black smoke out the back is rotting his spark plugs and this engine will get destroyed sooner or later. V-Tech lives on people thinking they are a legit company but if you do basic data logging and know what to look for you realize fast that you are doing major damage to your engine with those tunes. And people are surprised when the engine blows up at 100K Miles.
@@Nd_72 Hard to say exactly, And also not important in my opinion because i don't chase dyno numbers myself. Just an observation that i thought i would mention because it's more impressive than it looks to the average viewer. 5% loss on the dyno would be a very conservative estimate and that is 20whp in your case at 400whp. But i would suspect it's slightly more than that. VP octanium unleaded works well it's available at parts stores so it would be a very quick and easy starting point, And never be a bad idea to have in that car as a safety net while running pump gasoline.
@@Nd_72 I am not saying v-tech tunes are good or bad. I have never seen one. But i clearly saw the car spark knock at 1:31:33 and again heavier at 1:31:36 (refering to the dyno operators clock in front of the car) The response to my commenter up here that is claiming to know better sounds more interested in arguing tuner vs tuner as opposed to facts leading to anything constructive or helpful. Your wideband is covered by the screen on the dyno pull and i think we can all observe that the car is not black smoking raw fuel out the entire time.. so not sure where he came up with that conclusion with such certainty. (rotting his spark plugs) and claiming black smoke that isn't present are a couple of indicators of ignorance. That being said regarding the plugs make sure they are gapped properly for those boost levels or the tune won't be able to remedy anything. .028" - .025" gap would be a good ballpark on plugs to prevent blowout and still maintain idle and drivability. I don't know if it's rich or not but mid to high 11's on afr is the goal. 11.5 afr on hot days like that is good, because when the good cool air rolls in it will lean out naturally and put you in the high 11's and still be safe if that makes sense.
Love this little car. I got my wife a 2006 SLK55 and I sometimes wish had gotten a clean SLK32 for her instead. That bag of ice is "trick". My CL55 did the same thing as yours- made 607 rwhp first pass and "cool" but after a couple runs and a "Little Heat Soak" it wont make enough boost to make 500rwhp. I was looking at Meth injection next- but I have seen these chillers and they seem to work well.
Saw this little beast on I4 today. By the sound and tires, I knew there was a little something something in it. Nice build! 😎👍🏽
thanks, I drive it to work all the time
400 hp at the wheels out of a m112k is impressive. I made 440 hp and 495tq but that was with nitrous. I’m seriously considering stacking with my 65mm and seeing what it can do.
It can do a lot of damage is what it can and will do....this guy just isn't there yet. But watch him blow up his engine sooner or later
400whp in an auto 2wd should be very close to 500hp at the crank. To support this you'd need dual 2.5 into single 3.5 exhaust. Dual 2.75 into single 4 will support about 630-640hp at the crank. Dual 2.625 into single 3.75 will support about 570hp and dual 3 into single 4.25 will support about 740hp. So you might want to look into potential exhaust restrictions.
Also, for a future build, look into the Chevy LV1/LV3 platform V6. I'm very confident that with the right headwork and narrow LSA cam (AKA a David Vizard style build) you can make 400whp N/A with that engine at stock displacement, and up to 450whp with a big bore+big valve build. An FBO and cammed engine can also put down more than 750hp and torque at the crank with a turbo. And given that it has only one exhaust valve per cylinder, the same exhaust setup should produce similar sounds.
The goat swap would be an LV3 combo'd with a ZF 8-speed using a Turbolamik trans controller. You can even hook up a third pedal to that and run it like a manual, or a budget-friendly version of Koenigsegg's lightspeed transmission if you know anything about those. Not to mention the other functions the Turbolamik gives you with the ZF8 or how a ZF8 with the 'Lamik is almost as easy as a 4L80 swap.
Good job Adam like I said long time ago your car run awesome but I am shocked you are still on 93 up the octane brother
maybe e85 soon
As far as dyno numbers are concerned that is better than it would seem to most, Because the drag radial is soaking up a ton of your final power number. But that's just a number that doesn't matter in the grand scheme of things. Also the car appears to be spark knocking heavily especially in the high load ranges showing visible puffs out the exhaust in the video. The dyno graph and inside video confirm that because the car is pulling around 15-22 degrees constantly out of the commanded timing. That amount of timing retard is massive power loss. Obviously you have done a great job with the cooling and iat's, So that being said if it's knocking with iat's that low, It has too much timing in it and for the octane present. If it's currently just on premium pump gas and you want it that way without meth injection or the fuel system and e85. Try adding a good quality octane booster like vp octanium unleaded, Boostane, or mix in a some unleaded race fuel with the pump gas and datalog that to see if you can get the knock eliminated at those timing numbers. If its still knocking have the tuner creep the timing back down until it's good. Tough task to make safe consistant power down in that climate with stacked pullies. But If you made that power with those factors, Close to 500whp isn't out of the question with just a street tire on the rear and some added octane/tune revisions to keep the timing in a happy range on a hot florida day. At that point it will run like crazy in the heat of summer and just be better in the cool weather. Great job on the vids! i've seen some good content from you since running across the channel!
It isn't that. This guy (and many others) think V-Tech tunes are a good idea. They are at first because you feel a stronger pull than the likes of Eurocharched etc. BUT what they don't understand is that they are running extremely rich. The black smoke out the back is rotting his spark plugs and this engine will get destroyed sooner or later. V-Tech lives on people thinking they are a legit company but if you do basic data logging and know what to look for you realize fast that you are doing major damage to your engine with those tunes. And people are surprised when the engine blows up at 100K Miles.
@@MarkHenderson-u2f now what do u think is rich for afr and who tunes your amg
how much power do u thing the tires are stealing. I might try some vp oct booster and see what happens
@@Nd_72 Hard to say exactly, And also not important in my opinion because i don't chase dyno numbers myself. Just an observation that i thought i would mention because it's more impressive than it looks to the average viewer. 5% loss on the dyno would be a very conservative estimate and that is 20whp in your case at 400whp. But i would suspect it's slightly more than that. VP octanium unleaded works well it's available at parts stores so it would be a very quick and easy starting point, And never be a bad idea to have in that car as a safety net while running pump gasoline.
@@Nd_72 I am not saying v-tech tunes are good or bad. I have never seen one. But i clearly saw the car spark knock at 1:31:33 and again heavier at 1:31:36 (refering to the dyno operators clock in front of the car) The response to my commenter up here that is claiming to know better sounds more interested in arguing tuner vs tuner as opposed to facts leading to anything constructive or helpful. Your wideband is covered by the screen on the dyno pull and i think we can all observe that the car is not black smoking raw fuel out the entire time.. so not sure where he came up with that conclusion with such certainty. (rotting his spark plugs) and claiming black smoke that isn't present are a couple of indicators of ignorance. That being said regarding the plugs make sure they are gapped properly for those boost levels or the tune won't be able to remedy anything. .028" - .025" gap would be a good ballpark on plugs to prevent blowout and still maintain idle and drivability. I don't know if it's rich or not but mid to high 11's on afr is the goal. 11.5 afr on hot days like that is good, because when the good cool air rolls in it will lean out naturally and put you in the high 11's and still be safe if that makes sense.
Starting at 47 on 100 day and going up to 120 is good instead of starting at 120 and going to 170
I thinking about adding a top mount to it also
I think dey did the same thing to my car at jiffy lube. Now my car making crazyyy noise...do dey always do dyno when change oil ?
No that is not standard practice
Love to learn anything that cools us down in this heat
Love this little car. I got my wife a 2006 SLK55 and I sometimes wish had gotten a clean SLK32 for her instead. That bag of ice is "trick". My CL55 did the same thing as yours- made 607 rwhp first pass and "cool" but after a couple runs and a "Little Heat Soak" it wont make enough boost to make 500rwhp. I was looking at Meth injection next- but I have seen these chillers and they seem to work well.
the interchiller works great. if you are getting one from
fi interchiller use coupon code. nd_72