Another reason i think the L2 is an engineering masterpiece none of this messing around just put in the slug and fire .Thanks for sharing always very good quality videos.
I sold my L2 for the M3 and could not be happier. The countless fiddling with the folding stock to reload, and the small magazine (only 8 bullets for a semi auto) took the fun out of it. for me. I do miss the semi auto aspect though.
Thank you. I have one ordered and your video was awesome. This helps greatly. There is not much info on these except Meathead on You tube here in Australia.
Thank you very much for the vid. In the new power kits they don't include spacers anymore, I was affraid mine was incomplete but after some googling I found it out. Also very happy to know they don't use loctite on the M3's anymore, now all I need is a pair of vice grips and I should be able to perform this upgrade too. I was shooting some round nosed slugs made by Gmax ( .216 ) with the standard smooth twist barrel and no power kit installed ; 24gr @ 900/ 917, 28gr @ 870 and 31gr @830. They hit the target all over the place so I hope that the power kit and the heavy slug liner will give me the extra boost I need to shoot the heavier slugs accurately.
Hi , yes indeed the new M3 models come or with the spacers installed from factory or the have a heavier hammer and so eliminate the need of that in the kit . About those GMax slugs 😬 I experimented also with them but indeed the don’t group for me aswel . If you need a good cheap slug that performs well take alsook at the JSB KO slugs 😉
@@Airbuks ah awesome ! Thanks for the tip mate. My main problem is I can't use HP on the 50m lanes at the gun club here. Do you know any good solid slugs
@@infernoreviews2529 slow velocity slugs with good accuracy 🤔 slugs need high velocity to get there accuracy so not really I had some good accuracy with JSB KO at 820fps once
@@Airbuks right ! Thats why I will install the slug power kit and heavy slugliner. The only problem I have is that gmax is the only manufacturer for rond nosed slugs instead of hollow point (hp)
Thx , shot count is very subjective. It al depends on what weight slugs you want to shoot at what speed . I am getting about 2.5-3 magazines out of a fill with 30gr slugs at 960fps
according to Ernest row, the m3 only needs the slug probe. the valve and hammer spring have already been improved and upgraded. i also found when i fitted the entire kit i actually lost power only the slug probe is needed.
'Thank you for your nice videos , i have the impact M3 sniper in .22 and i instal a heavy slug liner , a barrel tensioning system , the slug power' kit and the tungsten hammer but the rifle don"t cock above number 11 on the macro power adjuster , is the two spacer washers that cause the problem? Thank you in advance!
You noticed right 👍🏻 in the video I explained that on the mkii I do use loctide but the M3 has a little different C3 with a rubber oring or thing inside that creates friction to prevent it from backing out . ( I have been told 😉)
thank you so much for your reply , my trigger was lose before I started so I tightened iy the piece you actually place your finger on to fire . I've unloosened it again now the rifle id cocking! I attached my air bottle , now the rear regulator won't fill and im leaking air out seems to be around the plenum and around the trigger section almost like its coming out or the handle grip . im new to all this air rifle world so needless to say slightly lost
I've got the rifle to cock now ,but as soon as o try to get pressure in the back gauge is leaks air out on the 720 plenum . once again thank you for you time to get back to me
Great video as always Brother! Installed my M3 SPK but noticed I could not turn the valve knob inward past the third line. The rubber ball was being compressed (unlike my MKII). Using using the M3 without the rubber ball for now. Any thoughts?
🤔 using it without the rubber ball isn’t bad but should not be like that . Do you still have the original hammerspring installed or is it a aftermarket one ( stronger/longer ) ?
@@ChrisFourt Same problem, disassemble the valve cover and it already has a rubber ball in front of where the allen key is, tomorrow I will try without the rubber ball in the spring
Hi mate took my M3 out in .25 yesterday everything going great it has had a slug power kit put in like I said very accurate ect took it out to 80 yards lovely tight groups but then I noticed when I went to reload the mag again the pellet probe was bent gutted as only used it for a few hours , why do you think it would be bent was it not install properly? At the time I was using JSB Heavy pellets didn’t even try the slugs. Also did you have to adjust your trigger on yours as I definitely can’t feel 2 stages just 1 long pull. Thank you for any advice .. Simon..
Hi Simon , you have te pin probe installed I presume? Is it possible that by inserting the magazine you bend the pin , if the pin is set to much forward it is possible that you bend the pin that way 🤔 Regarding the trigger no issue by me , but it’s easy to fix that . Make sure you read the manual to adjust the right screw 😉
@@Airbuks Thanks for getting back yes I have the shop I bought it from put it in power kit it was fine at first done some great groups at 80 yards then noticed probe when took mag out , Aso forgot to mention so as you know never owned a fx before come from S510R, The M3 so when the mag is out and you pull cocking lever back silky smooth , but when magazine is in its not its rough or notchy if you know what I mean is this normal for them very mechanical if that makes sense.. Thank you for your advice 🙏
@@Airbuks will do thank you, Also forgot to mention so as you know never owned a fx before come from S510R, The M3 so when the mag is out and you pull cocking lever back silky smooth , but when magazine is in its not its rough or notchy if you know what I mean is this normal for them very mechanical if that makes sense..
Nice Video biddy. But tell me have you done the one for the installation of the 720 cc power plenum. If no, it would be great to get the update. Cheers
Why did you use the macro wheel to adjust back to " 6mm and a tiny bit" instead of continuing to screw it on? Was it as tight as it would go at that point?
At power 16 and micro 4.5 ( witch is about the max adjustment) the C1 measures 6,5mm I put them the power at 8 to see if I am not dropping below the 6mm , this isn’t a necessary step as installing the slug kit you are hunting for max power but for my piece of mind I always like to know where the valve is at at 1/2 power to understand some things better . Also some people reported the couldn’t get to 6.5mm as the had different springs installed or over adjusted the hs tension. Ow at max power the 6,5 mm is about as far as it could screw on yes , still had about 1/2 - 1 turn left on the threads
Are folks keeping the slug power kit springs installed with the new power block? Or using the power block springs? I’m not convinced the slug power kit springs allow more power, with a power block application
I still have it installed. I do believe it adds a benefit with the power block as that is improved specially for airflow and the slug power kit is designed to keep the valve open for longer time letting more air passed the valve . So both should help each other 🤔 in my opinion 😉
Hi, after installing the newer slug power kit with the larger tungsten weight instead of the 2 spacer. My valve adjuster wont go down to the last adjusting line. It bottoms out on line 2. Did i do something wrong or is this normal?
Does the FX Impact Compact MK3 .30 caliber even need this? I helped a buddy put his in but once we got to the pin probe installation we noticed the 22/25 caliber adjuster was too small for the .30 caliber barrel and would slide all the way in to it not giving us a chance to mark the depth if that makes sense. It needed a bigger adjuster it seemed, like something that was already .30 caliber
@@Airbuks nk you so much for responding as this clears a ton of questions! I know this is the pin probe but better safe than sorry, could you take a look at this link and please let me know if that is the cirrect part...
The hole kit increases power the washers and valve return spring create more hammerspring tension to open the valve at higher regulator powers while the pin probe allows for a better airflow true the transferport
I asked fx about the spk on the m3 and they told me this. You do not need to install the valve spring/rubber ball out of the slug power kit. The other parts are able to be used. Thank you. Best Regards, Melissa
How much faster I can’t really put a number on it 🤔 but if you want to shoot with a higher regulator pressure 150+ you need some more HS to get the valve open far enough and long enough to get them up to speed . For pellets you don’t need the slug kit , but it’s still possible to shoot them as long as you bring the FPS back down with the powerwheel
I just installed the angled bracket (weird that it comes with NO directions) only bizarre thing to figure out is that O-ring goes into the oblong looking hole by pinching the O-ring flat. Aside from that there is a TINY O-ring and only one hole it can possibly fit into, and it comes with a spare (thick/flat) O-ring for plugging up the original hole where the gauge used to be. I also am installing the pin probe tonight so this video is perfect! Much appreciated!!
@@KevinWood44 I still have to get to installing mine 🙈probably tonight. Did your slug kit come with 1 or two spacers and the rubber ball ? Some people reported that there is only once spacer these days and some reported that the rubber ball isn’t needed 🤷♂️
Hi, can you tell me why the end of the valve rod has to be 6-6.5mm please. When I tighten mine I get just under 5mm. For me to get 6.5mm it won't be tight tight. Have I got it wrong? Thank you, your videos are 👌
No nothing is wrong . If you put your macro wheel on 8 and micro on 3 then turn your macro back to 16 so the micro ends up around 4 I think the C1 measurement should be between 6 to 6.5 mm
@@Airbuks hi, thanks for the reply, I commented on the wrong video. I was meant to comment on your other install. My impact is the mk1 with the power plenum, does the same apply? Tighten the hammer seat tight and it should be ok? I've seen another video, the guy loosens the hammer seat to get 6.5mm. Won't that cause power fluctuations because its loose?? Thanks again for replying 🙂
@@honda16001 in that case it’s just a little bit different, in my mkii I put blue loctide on it and screw it to +-6.25mm let it sit overnight before I shoot it and you should be fine . Just beware the amount of adjustment you made on the internal hammerspring screw can make a difference
Puramyd Air says not to install the rubber ball when installing the power kit in the M3, it's on the web site when you grouse that item, any thoughts on this??
Hello, made change to Slug power kit, but have problem with magazine. The needle does not want to go through the magazine. No problem without. All is .22 cal.
Hi , maybe a stupid thing to ask 😉 but have you removed the sleeve that sits over the pin probe ? In 22 cal you need to remove the sleeve as the sleeve is used for 25cal
It means you have to much hammerspring tension , due to adding the spacers you create extra compression on the spring and your settings before might be maxed out . Adding both together results in being unable to cock
Yes that’s a small screw that easily strips 🙈 I would take the cocking rod out and gently try to drill it out . Or heat it up so the glue melts and try again Or glue your Allen in the screw overnight and try again
Hi mate. I just received my M3 sniper in .22cal. can i shoot 40g h&n slug by just installing slug probe with barell turning on slug port?. I want to shoot them at 950fps .. please advise
I am afraid not , you will need to put a heavier hammer aswel (or install the spacers and valve return spring that come in the slug power kit )to open that regulator at 160-170 bar
@@Airbuks Okay Measurement C1 need to be anywhere from 6-6.5mm. But You was checking your power wheel. And i think your power wheel was set On@16. C1 measure was something like 6.5 mm Later you change power wheel to @8 i thing and C1 measurement was 6.mm So my question is when i install this FX slug power kit i should put hammer spring on max. Power wheel on Max and install this kit and C1 need to be anywhere from 6-6.5 mm Thank You!!
@@tkielek24 From all the other vids I watched, power wheel should be set to “Min” to relieve spring tension, before taking measurement. This is how I set my C1 measurement.
@@tkielek24 oké now I get it 👍🏻 The best way to do it is to put your wheel ( macro ) on 8 then adjust the thumb wheel ( micro ) to 3 . Put you Macro wheel back to 16 ( the micro will be around 4 I guess then ) and then you measure the C1
Still working with the L2 , don’t worry. I have a small issue with the EAR and I am waiting for a new part to be shipped to me before I can continue the videos with the L2
I don’t know exactly by head but the best way to approach it is by marking the probe depth on the probe while you have the barrel out and then set it accordingly. I explained it in a few videos how I do it , there is also a vid somewhere on my channel with the general measurement
@@leoleen5491 yes at the current tune I am using , it is possible to get more when upping the regulator as the mean idea of the slug kit is to make the hammer heavier to be able and open the valve and keep it longer open with the softer valve return spring.
Hello again. I moved to this video because it's more appropriate when using the M3 afterall. Sorry for the inconvenience. Your Video is a great help! I've installed the first part of the slug power kit according to Your clear video, the placement of the two washers for the Hammerspring and the new lighter Valvespring. 1. Unlike You showed in Your video, after installing, I measured the C1 6,5mm at powerwheel 16 but only 6,4mm at powerwheel at 8 instead of 6mm. Is this normal? 2. After installing the C1 again, You put the C1 with Rod complete inside to the end and check if You see it on the Silver part where Your magazine goes in. Here the end of the Rod is almost less then a mm inside from the wall (Magazine side). Is this correct? 3. After installing the Valveknob, I cannot go lower then Line 2, coming from Line 3, it goes heavier and heavier and complete stucks at line 2 ( Cocking goes normal as before (a little bit heavier) at Powerwheel 16). How can this be? In all honesty, I have to say that, when I purchased the Gun, I couldn't get lower then line 1 - 1,5. So, when shooting, I think the Valve didn't open enough then, so the pellet didn't leave the Barrel. Thank You again very much in advance for Your Advice.
1. Try to put the power wheel at 8 and micro at 3 . And then measure it 2. That can be depending on the tune and parts installed 3. That’s very strange 🤔 are all the internals original oem parts ? Sounds like there is a longer heavier spring inside or bigger hammer . This in combo with the 2 spacer might cause that there isn’t enough room inside and everything binds up
@@Airbuks Thanks for Your reply and suggestions. 1. At powerwheel 8 an micro 3, nothing changes, still 6,4mm. Before the upgrade I measured 6,2mm on Powerwheel 16. 2. Ok 3. The buks isn't changed, all part are original as purchased. Is it possible the position of the 4 lines/groove isn't right? I measure about 15,5mm from the outside (with the hex 11mm) to line 1. Line 4 is then about 11,5mm. The inside pin in the Knob where the Spring goes around, is getting stuck to the end of the rod. When I put the Knob on the Valve housing on line 1 first and screw them together back in (without valvespring), the Chest has still 2mm to go when it stucks. That matches the distance between line 1 and 2 I cannot reach. I've done some measurements and it seems imho there are 3 possibilities: A. the Rod the C1 is screwed on, is too long or B. the C1 has to move 2mm more inside or C. the Pin in the Valveknob has to be 2mm shorter. I'm not sure, but with the Valveknob at line 1, stays the Valve completely closed due to the max tension of the Spring or goes just a litle bit open? Thanks in advance for Your opinion
@@chefrenty9155 the measurement has to be between 6-6.5 mm so you are good there . So without seeing the impact if you can get a measurement between 6-6.5mm this tells me that the valve rod is not to long . It could be that the valve housing isn’t installed properly causing the impression that the valve rod is to long or there might be something wrong in the valve knob . What valve return spring are you using ? Are the internals installed in the correct order ? Again without seeing the gun I can only guess
@@Airbuks Now I'm using the lightest spring, from the powerkit. I did The latest measurements without the Valvespring installed. Ik have the Hammerspring, Hammerweight, Hammer and the 2 washers installed as shown in Your Video. Is it correct, that at line 1 (Line 2 in my case) the Valve could not be opened by the Hammer (stays closed) and at line 4 or a little bit further, the Valve could be opened max? Iám curious, can You go lower then line 1 with Your Valveknob or is Line 1 the lowest setting? I think, I gonna try the Gun first (without the new Pelletprobe) how it performs now and come back later again with the results. There has to be some improvement (I hope)... Thanks in advance.
When I try to pull out my C3 it is like it is stuck in a spring and it just to go back in again what am I doing wrong. There has never been an adjustment om there because it was a sub 12 before. Help!!
@@lassesarnhult9283 if it was a sub12 there might be a return spring on the valve in the plenum to help with the lower reg pressure. But I don’t have any experience with sub12
@@Fernando_Woolybooger you can try that but in the M3 in my personal experience and tests in 22 cal I got a better balance with the original spring and no rubber bal 😉
@@Fernando_Woolybooger You can try that but in my personal experience and test I have a better balance with the original spring and no rubber bal . But in 30cal it could be that you can benefit from the lighter valve return spring and you can lower your hammerspring to open the valve far enough 🤔
Hi , strange that the second regulator doesn’t get air 🤔 as the process doesn’t need the regulators to be touched. Have you have adjusted the first reg by any chance?
Most likely there is a issue with the valve not closing properly, This can be caused by a few things My advice is to disassemble it again and see if you have everything installed correctly
@@Airbuks yea you are right, man i took it all apart and come to find out the new valve spring with the ball is too week to close it at the end part on the block by the plenum. I installed the old spring and put the ball in there and that worked. Do you think its because i have the hammer knob adjusted to the max? I currently have it on minimum while doing this but i adjusted it to the max. Not sure if that has anything to do with it
@@nephtalilucero8084 i thinking might have to do with the regulator pressure you use ? Can you tell me at what pressure your second reg is ? If you say that replacing the lighter valve return spring fixes the issue I suspect that you have a lower regulator pressure to shoot . When shooting at higher pressures the valve return spring doesn’t do much work as the higher regulator pressure is what closes the valve , but with lower pressure on the reg the spring tension is needed to close the valve strong enough to keep it from leaking out of the barrel
@@Airbuks i cant imagine its the preasure. I forgot what i had it on before air went out. No less than 125. I noticed in your video thst yours went right flush without yet having preasure. Mine i had to oush it back and hold it back with finger in order to measure how much the C was sticking out. I measuted 5.5 mm before i took the C off and i out it back on that measure afterword. But i had to push with finger to measure. Telling me the hammer spring is resisting quite a lot. As soon as i put the tank bottle on all air started to come out.
@@nephtalilucero8084 try reducing the hammerspring while installing the C1 and set it at 6-6.5mm . There shouldn’t be any resistance or holding it with your finger to measure it
I'm wondering why Utah Air told me the M3 doesn't need and a slug power kit because it doesn't make any difference to the M3 performance. When I ordered my M3 from them I asked them to install the kit and they convinced me it's a waste of money. I had a sour ordeal with Utah Air and I'm still not happy with my M3. I ordered a .25 and they sent me a factory .22 that they converted to a .25 with a used .25 liner. Also I am convinced the gun was used but they insisted that would be against their policy. I'm very bitter about the whole transaction.
Sorry to hear that mate , but I live in Europe and so I di t know how things are going there . It is possible that the recent models that are in the stores don’t benefit from the slug kit as I have heard some people say that the spacers are already standard installed on there M3 so the only thing to do is to install a pin probe and your done . Mine is one off the first M3 to be produced and I didn’t have the slug spacers in mine so I went ahead and installed them 🤷♂️
Hola te vuelvo a pedir por favor los subtítulos en español El segundo idioma más hablado del mundo Y el tercer idioma más utilizado en Internet Gracias
@@Airbuks It's only there to seal the sleeve part to .25 call. Mine got stuck in the magazine then i realized it was not needed there. Great video by the way !!
Thank you. Look forward to part 2.
Another reason i think the L2 is an engineering masterpiece none of this messing around just put in the slug and fire .Thanks for sharing always very good quality videos.
Thx , the L2 also needs some regulator pressure tuning before it shoots accurate but less complicated indeed 👍🏻
I sold my L2 for the M3 and could not be happier. The countless fiddling with the folding stock to reload, and the small magazine (only 8 bullets for a semi auto) took the fun out of it. for me. I do miss the semi auto aspect though.
Very easy and informative stuff you share,its always very useful
Thx 🙏🏻
Very well explained and demonstrated. Thank you so much….step by step and not rushing. Excellent explanation as you were going. 👍👍
Thx mate 👊
So what are the 2 little o -rings used for in the kit?
Very good video with good instructions on this procedure, thank you!
Thx 🙏🏻
Another great video and great explanation..
Thank you. I have one ordered and your video was awesome. This helps greatly. There is not much info on these except Meathead on You tube here in Australia.
Nice to here , you can also contact me on Instagram if you have any questions 😉👍🏻
Thank you very much for the vid.
In the new power kits they don't include spacers anymore, I was affraid mine was incomplete but after some googling I found it out.
Also very happy to know they don't use loctite on the M3's anymore, now all I need is a pair of vice grips and I should be able to perform this upgrade too.
I was shooting some round nosed slugs made by Gmax ( .216 ) with the standard smooth twist barrel and no power kit installed ; 24gr @ 900/ 917, 28gr @ 870 and 31gr @830.
They hit the target all over the place so I hope that the power kit and the heavy slug liner will give me the extra boost I need to shoot the heavier slugs accurately.
Hi , yes indeed the new M3 models come or with the spacers installed from factory or the have a heavier hammer and so eliminate the need of that in the kit .
About those GMax slugs 😬 I experimented also with them but indeed the don’t group for me aswel .
If you need a good cheap slug that performs well take alsook at the JSB KO slugs 😉
@@Airbuks ah awesome ! Thanks for the tip mate.
My main problem is I can't use HP on the 50m lanes at the gun club here.
Do you know any good solid slugs
@@infernoreviews2529 slow velocity slugs with good accuracy 🤔 slugs need high velocity to get there accuracy so not really I had some good accuracy with JSB KO at 820fps once
@@Airbuks right ! Thats why I will install the slug power kit and heavy slugliner.
The only problem I have is that gmax is the only manufacturer for rond nosed slugs instead of hollow point (hp)
@@infernoreviews2529 mmm 🤔 I see you mean hollow points with HP
Always great videos. Some M3s have the washers as standard items
Thx , I didn’t know that 🤔 thx for the tip
@@Airbuks its weird, there's no consistency, should be all or none, not some. Maybe USA get it, or EU do. Not sure
@@precisionairgunninghunting6265 true
Thank you for the professional demounting en reïnstalling video, this will be more than helpful. Thanks a lot 👍
Thx for the support mate 👊
Love your videos
Thx Eric 🙏🏻
@@Airbuks no problem love the detail you go into and the video reviews on different slugs
@@ericeverson6822 thx
Perfect explanation. Thanks. Any change in the shot count after the kit?
Thx , shot count is very subjective. It al depends on what weight slugs you want to shoot at what speed . I am getting about 2.5-3 magazines out of a fill with 30gr slugs at 960fps
Thank you 👍
BIG THANKS
Nice video, thank you, I can't find you in the Slug Power store for the .35 model, the assembly is different to take advantage of the full power?
Hi , there is no slug kit available for the 35 cal is I am correct.
I don’t have any experience with 35cal sorry 🤷♂️
Southern precision air weapons has the kit for 35 cal m3
Great video, thank you. Can you use the pin probe and hi-flow port with pellets?
Yes you can but the seating depth can be a issue depending on what pellet you use regarding to the skirt depth
@@Airbuks Thank you so much for your speedy and useful response.
@@TheSopranosUkeDuo you’re welcome
according to Ernest row, the m3 only needs the slug probe. the valve and hammer spring have already been improved and upgraded. i also found when i fitted the entire kit i actually lost power only the slug probe is needed.
🤔 maybe there is a difference between US and EU models or they have updated this since I got my M3 ? I will investigate 😉
jsb .25 knout 33 grs 945 fps max, kit de slug 965 fps
Did you find the answer?
'Thank you for your nice videos , i have the impact M3 sniper in .22 and i instal a heavy slug liner , a barrel tensioning system , the slug power' kit and the tungsten hammer but the rifle don"t cock above number 11 on the macro power adjuster , is the two spacer washers that cause the problem?
Thank you in advance!
When your powerwheel is at 11 at what level is your micro adjustment?
Does the impact M3 Power black version include "Slug Power Kit", "High Flow Pin Probe", "Power Tuning Hammer- and Valve Return Spring"?
Maybe I missed it but did you not use any threadlock for your C3 to keep it at whatever measurement you wanted throughout use?
You noticed right 👍🏻 in the video I explained that on the mkii I do use loctide but the M3 has a little different C3 with a rubber oring or thing inside that creates friction to prevent it from backing out . ( I have been told 😉)
@@Airbuks Thank you.
thank you so much for your reply , my trigger was lose before I started so I tightened iy the piece you actually place your finger on to fire . I've unloosened it again now the rifle id cocking! I attached my air bottle , now the rear regulator won't fill and im leaking air out seems to be around the plenum and around the trigger section almost like its coming out or the handle grip . im new to all this air rifle world so needless to say slightly lost
Have you tried screwing on the bottle when the rifle is cocked?
I've got the rifle to cock now ,but as soon as o try to get pressure in the back gauge is leaks air out on the 720 plenum . once again thank you for you time to get back to me
@@marcevens5472 exactly where does the air leak out of the plenum?
Hey @airbuks does the 30 caliber M3 need the Slug power kit? It says for 22 and 25 caliber, so didn't know whether the 30 needs it or not. Thanks.
Great video as always Brother! Installed my M3 SPK but noticed I could not turn the valve knob inward past the third line. The rubber ball was being compressed (unlike my MKII). Using using the M3 without the rubber ball for now. Any thoughts?
🤔 using it without the rubber ball isn’t bad but should not be like that . Do you still have the original hammerspring installed or is it a aftermarket one ( stronger/longer ) ?
@@Airbuks The spring that came with the SPK was installed.
@@ronb386 that’s the valve return spring , I mean the hammerspring itself that sits inside the hammer
Hi!, same problem here, once I remove the ball, the problem was solve..
Cheers
JCF
@@ChrisFourt Same problem, disassemble the valve cover and it already has a rubber ball in front of where the allen key is, tomorrow I will try without the rubber ball in the spring
Thanks for the video,is this the .25 caliber?
No original it was a 25 but in this video I ended up making it a 22cal
Hi mate took my M3 out in .25 yesterday everything going great it has had a slug power kit put in like I said very accurate ect took it out to 80 yards lovely tight groups but then I noticed when I went to reload the mag again the pellet probe was bent gutted as only used it for a few hours , why do you think it would be bent was it not install properly? At the time I was using JSB Heavy pellets didn’t even try the slugs.
Also did you have to adjust your trigger on yours as I definitely can’t feel 2 stages just 1 long pull.
Thank you for any advice ..
Simon..
Hi Simon , you have te pin probe installed I presume? Is it possible that by inserting the magazine you bend the pin , if the pin is set to much forward it is possible that you bend the pin that way 🤔
Regarding the trigger no issue by me , but it’s easy to fix that .
Make sure you read the manual to adjust the right screw 😉
@@Airbuks Thanks for getting back yes I have the shop I bought it from put it in power kit it was fine at first done some great groups at 80 yards then noticed probe when took mag out ,
Aso forgot to mention so as you know never owned a fx before come from S510R, The M3 so when the mag is out and you pull cocking lever back silky smooth , but when magazine is in its not its rough or notchy if you know what I mean is this normal for them very mechanical if that makes sense..
Thank you for your advice 🙏
@@simoncoher4841 did you check if the probe is tightened well , sometimes it can make itself loose
@@Airbuks will do thank you, Also
forgot to mention so as you know never owned a fx before come from S510R, The M3 so when the mag is out and you pull cocking lever back silky smooth , but when magazine is in its not its rough or notchy if you know what I mean is this normal for them very mechanical if that makes sense..
What was the length of the first barrel you had on at the beginning of the video? Just to confirm the tank 580cc.
That was a 600mm barrel with a 580cc tank 👍🏻
Nice Video biddy. But tell me have you done the one for the installation of the 720 cc power plenum. If no, it would be great to get the update. Cheers
Hi mate , still waiting to get the 720 plenum for the mkii . But once i have it a will do a video offcours 👍🏻
Why did you use the macro wheel to adjust back to " 6mm and a tiny bit" instead of continuing to screw it on? Was it as tight as it would go at that point?
At power 16 and micro 4.5 ( witch is about the max adjustment) the C1 measures 6,5mm I put them the power at 8 to see if I am not dropping below the 6mm , this isn’t a necessary step as installing the slug kit you are hunting for max power but for my piece of mind I always like to know where the valve is at at 1/2 power to understand some things better . Also some people reported the couldn’t get to 6.5mm as the had different springs installed or over adjusted the hs tension.
Ow at max power the 6,5 mm is about as far as it could screw on yes , still had about 1/2 - 1 turn left on the threads
@@Airbuks Thank you!
Are folks keeping the slug power kit springs installed with the new power block? Or using the power block springs? I’m not convinced the slug power kit springs allow more power, with a power block application
I still have it installed. I do believe it adds a benefit with the power block as that is improved specially for airflow and the slug power kit is designed to keep the valve open for longer time letting more air passed the valve .
So both should help each other 🤔 in my opinion 😉
Good
Hi, after installing the newer slug power kit with the larger tungsten weight instead of the 2 spacer. My valve adjuster wont go down to the last adjusting line. It bottoms out on line 2. Did i do something wrong or is this normal?
That doesn’t sound correct 🤔
Does the FX Impact Compact MK3 .30 caliber even need this? I helped a buddy put his in but once we got to the pin probe installation we noticed the 22/25 caliber adjuster was too small for the .30 caliber barrel and would slide all the way in to it not giving us a chance to mark the depth if that makes sense. It needed a bigger adjuster it seemed, like something that was already .30 caliber
Yes the slug power kit probe is made for 22-25 caliber if you want a pin probe for 30 cal you can find it at Huma Air
@@Airbuks nk you so much for responding as this clears a ton of questions! I know this is the pin probe but better safe than sorry, could you take a look at this link and please let me know if that is the cirrect part...
@@ladydemonika420 I don’t see a link but here is the link to the pin probe
www.huma-air.com/FX-Impact-High-Flow-Pin-Probe
If I understand correctly, the pin probe does nothing to increase power? It's mainly for accuracy purposes.
The hole kit increases power the washers and valve return spring create more hammerspring tension to open the valve at higher regulator powers while the pin probe allows for a better airflow true the transferport
I asked fx about the spk on the m3 and they told me this.
You do not need to install the valve spring/rubber ball out of the slug power kit. The other parts are able to be used.
Thank you.
Best Regards,
Melissa
Hi , thx for the info 👍🏻 I send the video to FX before uploading it to make sure I did everything right and nobody told me about that 🤔
How does power kit affect pellets. How much faster does it make the slugs? Thanks for info.
How much faster I can’t really put a number on it 🤔 but if you want to shoot with a higher regulator pressure 150+ you need some more HS to get the valve open far enough and long enough to get them up to speed .
For pellets you don’t need the slug kit , but it’s still possible to shoot them as long as you bring the FPS back down with the powerwheel
@@Airbuks thanks good to know.
👍
Make a video on mounting the angled manometer bracket. It is nowhere on TH-cam yet, you would be the first.
I just took delivery off one 👍🏻😉 video will come up soon 👍🏻
I just installed the angled bracket (weird that it comes with NO directions) only bizarre thing to figure out is that O-ring goes into the oblong looking hole by pinching the O-ring flat. Aside from that there is a TINY O-ring and only one hole it can possibly fit into, and it comes with a spare (thick/flat) O-ring for plugging up the original hole where the gauge used to be.
I also am installing the pin probe tonight so this video is perfect! Much appreciated!!
@@KevinWood44 I still have to get to installing mine 🙈probably tonight.
Did your slug kit come with 1 or two spacers and the rubber ball ?
Some people reported that there is only once spacer these days and some reported that the rubber ball isn’t needed 🤷♂️
@@Airbuks 2 spacers and 1 rubber ball. Yours??
Hmmm....I wonder what benefit the 1 weight has over 2?
@@KevinWood44 I still had this kit from before the M3 got launched. So I have the full kit .
Hi, can you tell me why the end of the valve rod has to be 6-6.5mm please. When I tighten mine I get just under 5mm. For me to get 6.5mm it won't be tight tight. Have I got it wrong?
Thank you, your videos are 👌
No nothing is wrong . If you put your macro wheel on 8 and micro on 3 then turn your macro back to 16 so the micro ends up around 4 I think the C1 measurement should be between 6 to 6.5 mm
@@Airbuks hi, thanks for the reply, I commented on the wrong video. I was meant to comment on your other install.
My impact is the mk1 with the power plenum, does the same apply? Tighten the hammer seat tight and it should be ok?
I've seen another video, the guy loosens the hammer seat to get 6.5mm. Won't that cause power fluctuations because its loose??
Thanks again for replying 🙂
@@honda16001 in that case it’s just a little bit different, in my mkii I put blue loctide on it and screw it to +-6.25mm let it sit overnight before I shoot it and you should be fine .
Just beware the amount of adjustment you made on the internal hammerspring screw can make a difference
@@Airbuks thanks again for replying, really appreciate it 👌👍
Hi,i have a question about the length you measured from 6,5 mm. According to the vid the Macro wheel was on 16, should it not be at 1? thx in advance
As long as you didn’t overpowered the hammerspring tension it can be on 16 .
If you can’t get to the 6-6.5 mm you can reduce the macro
@@Airbuks thx
if i buy a FX Impact M3 - cal.25 sniper, is the kit useful to increase the power? should i buy it as well?
Yes but it’s aimed more to shoot slugs , if you just want a pellets shooter you don’t need it 👍🏻
@@Airbuks tnx a lot for the suggest, i will buy coz is interesting upgrade
Can slugs be shot from the barrel the Impact comes with or do I need a slug barrel ?
Lighter slugs yes but for heavier slug you best use a slug barrel
I wish I waited 1 day … it would have saved me so much head scratching
Puramyd Air says not to install the rubber ball when installing the power kit in the M3, it's on the web site when you grouse that item, any thoughts on this??
I have had the same question from someone else, I have tested it .
Installing it doesn’t hurt your gun but you can gain more power without it 😉👍🏻
@@Airbuks la valvula ya trae incluida una bola de goma, si le sacas la allen la veras
Did you ever experience the second slug blocks the slug probe when cocking?
No not a issue but me , are you sur the pin of the probe isn’t to far out ?
@@Airbuks That is the cause. It needs a little trial and error to adjust
Hello, made change to Slug power kit, but have problem with magazine. The needle does not want to go through the magazine. No problem without. All is .22 cal.
Hi , maybe a stupid thing to ask 😉 but have you removed the sleeve that sits over the pin probe ? In 22 cal you need to remove the sleeve as the sleeve is used for 25cal
@@Airbuks Sleeve was not installed. Absolutely don't understand where is problem.
@@setypa are you using the original magazine?
Did you measure the diameter of the probe ?
May I want to know how to open the surrounded barrel on Laras?
Did it exactly like in the video, and I cant cock the rifle at all if set to 13 - 16 power setting.
It means you have to much hammerspring tension , due to adding the spacers you create extra compression on the spring and your settings before might be maxed out . Adding both together results in being unable to cock
18:06 that screw stripped instantly for me when i tried to undo it. what would you do?
Yes that’s a small screw that easily strips 🙈 I would take the cocking rod out and gently try to drill it out .
Or heat it up so the glue melts and try again
Or glue your Allen in the screw overnight and try again
16:40 for .30 cal I have to use the original pin probe right?
There are companies like Huma that make a pinprobe in 30cal
Hi mate.
I just received my M3 sniper in .22cal. can i shoot 40g h&n slug by just installing slug probe with barell turning on slug port?. I want to shoot them at 950fps .. please advise
I am afraid not , you will need to put a heavier hammer aswel (or install the spacers and valve return spring that come in the slug power kit )to open that regulator at 160-170 bar
@@Airbuks thanks mate...you always reply
The rubber ball need to put in too.i heard some1 said take out the rubber ball will be increase speed.that right??
In some cases yes
On the mk2 power wheel need to be what number 2. Or Max??? And C1 6.-6.5mm ???
Thanks for video
Hi Tomek , can you explain in more detail. Not 100% sure what you mean , sorry
@@Airbuks
Okay
Measurement C1 need to be anywhere from 6-6.5mm. But You was checking your power wheel. And i think your power wheel was set On@16. C1 measure was something like 6.5 mm
Later you change power wheel to @8 i thing and C1 measurement was 6.mm
So my question is when i install this FX slug power kit i should put hammer spring on max. Power wheel on Max and install this kit and C1 need to be anywhere from 6-6.5 mm
Thank You!!
@@tkielek24 From all the other vids I watched, power wheel should be set to “Min” to relieve spring tension, before taking measurement. This is how I set my C1 measurement.
@@tkielek24 oké now I get it 👍🏻
The best way to do it is to put your wheel ( macro ) on 8 then adjust the thumb wheel ( micro ) to 3 . Put you Macro wheel back to 16 ( the micro will be around 4 I guess then ) and then you measure the C1
@@ronb386
Question.
So I need to set my power wheel at minimum. Mk2. Of course and C1 measurement 6.5mm correct?
is it impossible to shoot pellets properly when you install this?
If you keep the original probe not the pin probe then yes 👍
Do the m3 and mk2 use the same slug power kit?
Yes , but some places in the the M3 has the pacers installed already from the factory and the only thing you need is the probe
@@Airbuks awesome, thank you
Khẩu súng này có giá bán bao nhiêu tiền vậy ạ
what happened to the review of the Leshiy 2
Still working with the L2 , don’t worry. I have a small issue with the EAR and I am waiting for a new part to be shipped to me before I can continue the videos with the L2
I twisted the linkage what is the length of it ?
I don’t know exactly by head but the best way to approach it is by marking the probe depth on the probe while you have the barrel out and then set it accordingly. I explained it in a few videos how I do it , there is also a vid somewhere on my channel with the general measurement
please correct me we are doing that just to increase ftp on ~50 and less, right ?
Can you explain a little better what exactly you mean ? Thx
@@Airbuks what do you want me to explain ? I’m asking about reason to spend next 50 bakses for slug power kit by what reason ? To have +50 to FPS ?
@@leoleen5491 depending on caliber and the tune you use you can get more out of it .
@@Airbuks on your video, you have been using .22 cal, and upgrade gave about 50 FPS
@@leoleen5491 yes at the current tune I am using , it is possible to get more when upping the regulator as the mean idea of the slug kit is to make the hammer heavier to be able and open the valve and keep it longer open with the softer valve return spring.
for caliber 0.30 is used the same kit as for caliber 0.25?
The kit is the same , but you have to make sure you get a .30 pin probe
@@Airbuks and where can I buy a 0.30 pin probe?
do you have the link?
@@giuliocantarella2274 Huma air has one ☝🏻
@@Airbuks 👍
awesome video I've followed it step by step ,but now can't get the cocking mechanism to cock and hold back ? any ideas plese
That means you have to much hammerspring tensioning.
Just back off the 1.5 mm adjustment screw on the hammerspring adjustment
Hello again. I moved to this video because it's more appropriate when using the M3 afterall. Sorry for the inconvenience. Your Video is a great help!
I've installed the first part of the slug power kit according to Your clear video, the placement of the two washers for the Hammerspring and the new lighter Valvespring.
1. Unlike You showed in Your video, after installing, I measured the C1 6,5mm at powerwheel 16 but only 6,4mm at powerwheel at 8 instead of 6mm. Is this normal?
2. After installing the C1 again, You put the C1 with Rod complete inside to the end and check if You see it on the Silver part where Your magazine goes in. Here the end of the Rod is almost less then a mm inside from the wall (Magazine side). Is this correct?
3. After installing the Valveknob, I cannot go lower then Line 2, coming from Line 3, it goes heavier and heavier and complete stucks at line 2 ( Cocking goes normal as before (a little bit heavier) at Powerwheel 16). How can this be? In all honesty, I have to say that, when I purchased the Gun, I couldn't get lower then line 1 - 1,5. So, when shooting, I think the Valve didn't open enough then, so the pellet didn't leave the Barrel.
Thank You again very much in advance for Your Advice.
1. Try to put the power wheel at 8 and micro at 3 . And then measure it
2. That can be depending on the tune and parts installed
3. That’s very strange 🤔 are all the internals original oem parts ? Sounds like there is a longer heavier spring inside or bigger hammer . This in combo with the 2 spacer might cause that there isn’t enough room inside and everything binds up
@@Airbuks Thanks for Your reply and suggestions.
1. At powerwheel 8 an micro 3, nothing changes, still 6,4mm. Before the upgrade I measured 6,2mm on Powerwheel 16.
2. Ok
3. The buks isn't changed, all part are original as purchased. Is it possible the position of the 4 lines/groove isn't right? I measure about 15,5mm from the outside (with the hex 11mm) to line 1. Line 4 is then about 11,5mm.
The inside pin in the Knob where the Spring goes around, is getting stuck to the end of the rod. When I put the Knob on the Valve housing on line 1 first and screw them together back in (without valvespring), the Chest has still 2mm to go when it stucks. That matches the distance between line 1 and 2 I cannot reach.
I've done some measurements and it seems imho there are 3 possibilities: A. the Rod the C1 is screwed on, is too long or B. the C1 has to move 2mm more inside or C. the Pin in the Valveknob has to be 2mm shorter.
I'm not sure, but with the Valveknob at line 1, stays the Valve completely closed due to the max tension of the Spring or goes just a litle bit open?
Thanks in advance for Your opinion
Sorry, at point 3, I typed 'stuck to the end of the Rod', I meant 'stuck to the end of the C1'
@@chefrenty9155 the measurement has to be between 6-6.5 mm so you are good there .
So without seeing the impact if you can get a measurement between 6-6.5mm this tells me that the valve rod is not to long .
It could be that the valve housing isn’t installed properly causing the impression that the valve rod is to long or there might be something wrong in the valve knob .
What valve return spring are you using ?
Are the internals installed in the correct order ?
Again without seeing the gun I can only guess
@@Airbuks Now I'm using the lightest spring, from the powerkit. I did The latest measurements without the Valvespring installed.
Ik have the Hammerspring, Hammerweight, Hammer and the 2 washers installed as shown in Your Video.
Is it correct, that at line 1 (Line 2 in my case) the Valve could not be opened by the Hammer (stays closed) and at line 4 or a little bit further, the Valve could be opened max? Iám curious, can You go lower then line 1 with Your Valveknob or is Line 1 the lowest setting?
I think, I gonna try the Gun first (without the new Pelletprobe) how it performs now and come back later again with the results.
There has to be some improvement (I hope)...
Thanks in advance.
When I try to pull out my C3 it is like it is stuck in a spring and it just to go back in again
what am I doing wrong. There has never been an adjustment om there because it was a sub 12 before. Help!!
What generation impact do you have ?
@@Airbuks A new M# just one weeks since I bought it
@@Airbuks M3
@@lassesarnhult9283 if it was a sub12 there might be a return spring on the valve in the plenum to help with the lower reg pressure. But I don’t have any experience with sub12
Just received my power kit and it did not have the rubber ball?
🤔 , but in my case I took it back out to get some more power 😉
If air leaks out of the barrel after install what could it be?
Have you fixed the problem?
@@Airbuks yes i did. Thanks! That was an old post before you helped out.
@@nephtalilucero8084 sweet ! Sometimes I forget stuff 😉
Can this be installed on the .30 Caliber?
@@Airbuks What about the lighter spring and rubber ball? Install that in the .30? Thanks!
@@Fernando_Woolybooger you can try that but in the M3 in my personal experience and tests in 22 cal I got a better balance with the original spring and no rubber bal 😉
@@Fernando_Woolybooger You can try that but in my personal experience and test I have a better balance with the original spring and no rubber bal .
But in 30cal it could be that you can benefit from the lighter valve return spring and you can lower your hammerspring to open the valve far enough 🤔
HELP!
i did everything at the same way but no pressure on second regulator.
Hi , strange that the second regulator doesn’t get air 🤔 as the process doesn’t need the regulators to be touched. Have you have adjusted the first reg by any chance?
I did the kit for fx impact ii. For some reason its letting all the air out through the front of barrell. Very fast
Most likely there is a issue with the valve not closing properly,
This can be caused by a few things
My advice is to disassemble it again and see if you have everything installed correctly
@@Airbuks yea you are right, man i took it all apart and come to find out the new valve spring with the ball is too week to close it at the end part on the block by the plenum. I installed the old spring and put the ball in there and that worked. Do you think its because i have the hammer knob adjusted to the max? I currently have it on minimum while doing this but i adjusted it to the max. Not sure if that has anything to do with it
@@nephtalilucero8084 i thinking might have to do with the regulator pressure you use ? Can you tell me at what pressure your second reg is ?
If you say that replacing the lighter valve return spring fixes the issue I suspect that you have a lower regulator pressure to shoot .
When shooting at higher pressures the valve return spring doesn’t do much work as the higher regulator pressure is what closes the valve , but with lower pressure on the reg the spring tension is needed to close the valve strong enough to keep it from leaking out of the barrel
@@Airbuks i cant imagine its the preasure. I forgot what i had it on before air went out. No less than 125. I noticed in your video thst yours went right flush without yet having preasure. Mine i had to oush it back and hold it back with finger in order to measure how much the C was sticking out. I measuted 5.5 mm before i took the C off and i out it back on that measure afterword. But i had to push with finger to measure. Telling me the hammer spring is resisting quite a lot. As soon as i put the tank bottle on all air started to come out.
@@nephtalilucero8084 try reducing the hammerspring while installing the C1 and set it at 6-6.5mm .
There shouldn’t be any resistance or holding it with your finger to measure it
Frindes quando custa uma pcp dessa ai $$$$$
What about .177 (4,5mm)?
I have no experience with 177 , sorry
You are speaking like the robot 🤖 😆🌹
As long as you can understand me and the video can help people I am more then happy to sound like a robot 🤖😂
I'm wondering why Utah Air told me the M3 doesn't need and a slug power kit because it doesn't make any difference to the M3 performance. When I ordered my M3 from them I asked them to install the kit and they convinced me it's a waste of money. I had a sour ordeal with Utah Air and I'm still not happy with my M3. I ordered a .25 and they sent me a factory .22 that they converted to a .25 with a used .25 liner. Also I am convinced the gun was used but they insisted that would be against their policy. I'm very bitter about the whole transaction.
Sorry to hear that mate , but I live in Europe and so I di t know how things are going there . It is possible that the recent models that are in the stores don’t benefit from the slug kit as I have heard some people say that the spacers are already standard installed on there M3 so the only thing to do is to install a pin probe and your done . Mine is one off the first M3 to be produced and I didn’t have the slug spacers in mine so I went ahead and installed them 🤷♂️
@@Airbuks. Thanks. I do have a power probe. Do you happen to know the difference in the weight of the hammers?
@@james1795 the hammer should weigh all the same , but I don’t know how much
@@Airbuks. Thanks for the reply.
Wat is het grootste voordeel van de kit
Wat meer power om zwaardere slugs te schieten 😉
@@Airbuks meer power met dezelfde hoeveelheid lucht?
Wel benauwelijk om dit te doen als je nog nooit een buks uit elkaar hebt gehaald.
@@lorenzorommelaere9132 neen dat niet 😬 alles staat in verhouding. Meer power meer lucht 🤷♂️
@@lorenzorommelaere9132 als je nog nooit een buks uit elkaar gehaald hebt zou ik zeker niet beginnen met een Impact 😬
Hola te vuelvo a pedir por favor los subtítulos en español
El segundo idioma más hablado del mundo
Y el tercer idioma más utilizado en Internet
Gracias
The rubber ball musn't go in the m3, it's only for rhe older impacts
Yes , I informed the viewers in a updated video later on. 👍🏻 it doesn’t harm if it’s there but you can’t make the most power out if it then
Nhieu tien sop
Puedes mandármelo el comentario en español plis
You forgot to remove the o-ring on the pin probe because it won't go true the magazine... ;-)
Not a problem buy me in a next video you can see it cycles fine without any issue 🤷♂️
@@Airbuks It's only there to seal the sleeve part to .25 call. Mine got stuck in the magazine then i realized it was not needed there. Great video by the way !!
Too much work for for an expensive rifle. Fx should sell the slug kit as option already installed
Not a bad idea 🤔