This is episode 1 of what will be a series where I swap a Chevy Ecotec into my Baja Bug. In this episode I find a good doner motor at the junkyard and get some friends to help me pull it and bring it home.
I can now say I have watched every single one of your vids start to finish. I have a 72 bug which sounds like it is rusted just as bad as yours was, am hoping to do the same thing you've done! Thankyou and respect from Australia!
Wow Simon, that's awesome! I hope the videos help and that your build goes smooth. If you need any part numbers or specific info when building yours don't hesitate to ask. I'd like my mistakes to make your build easier and less expensive.
Look into Megasquirt for your engine management. You can build your own or buy one pre-assembled plus the tuning software is free, but I would recommend buying the registered version. They come as an ECU with a pigtail and you build your own harness. There is a ton of user support and videos online to help with wiring and tuning. I just converted my air cooled to fuel injection with a turbo and used one of their ECUs and couldn't be happier.
June Bug, I've always wanted to play with Megasquirt. Nice job on converting it into your air cooled motor, I though about that but it seemed like a lot of work. I think on this motor I'll start by trying to get the stock ECU to work. But after that I'd like to try to switch over to Megasquirt once the bug is up and running. Thanks for the advice.
good pick on the motor I have a buddy with a eco in his bug with a turbo and it's pulling wheelies mind you the transmission cost him an arm and a leg how it's setup but before that it was still fast just burned 1st one up with turbo mod
Watching this in 2021 for scheming on a ecotec sand rail idea. I managed to find a wrecked '06 Pontiac Solstice with only 7k miles on it a few years back. Originally tore it apart for the engine and trans to use in a '68 Morgan +4 project that has since gone a different direction. Laughing cause I'm working on a engine test stand for the ecotec, but it's currently sitting on the exact same Harbor Freight wooden dolly.
Lot's of folks use that engine on a VW platform so there should be plenty of info out there. I'm sure your aware of Kennedy Engineering for a bolt on adapter and flywheel starting mortor set up. If your patient you might even find a used one. Looking forward to your build. Hope it's a good one. Heck at that price it really doesn't matter. I could hear your wife sobbing in the background. ( Hope there is room in the dog house for ya. hehehe
Hey EZGZ, You are right, I've already talked to Kennedy and gone over some options. Don't worry about the wife, she didn't go with so I never told her what I paid. lol Plus our dog house is nice and big with lots of blankets.
I’ve got the alpha fab industries engine adapter for the 091, ecm tunes for the turbo I added plus there harness. I can say first hand they are a great company really clean products. Also check into cbm they have some nice stuff
Tom, I am worried, quite a bit actually. I had this transaxle (Bus type 2) rebuilt about 2 years ago from a local shop around here that specializes in VW transaxles. I told him back then that I might put a water cooled motor on it and he wasn't concerned. However I want to reach out to him and find out what all he did to the transaxle and see where I think I'm at. Then I'll have a better idea where I stand.
Doug, Let me know what you find. I was doing some research and I think your transaxle is a 3 rib, from what I saw in another video. It has an R&P of 5.38:1. Looking online, all I found was that the 6 rib has a stronger housing. Let me know what you find out. The internet is not helpful with this combo. --Tom
Tom, I spoke to the guy who built my transaxle today. It does not have upgraded ring and pinions. It is the 3 rib and it does have the 5:38. I got that because I wanted to run 33" tires. He said it has upgraded keyways and welded synchros. And then he said there are some parts of it just built with tighter tolerances than stock, (whatever that means). He said it should be good for about 200hp. I told him I'm putting an Ecotec up to it with about 150hp. He said it should be OK as long as I don't dump the clutch to much, and he said don't use reverse except for backing out of a parking space of flat ground. lol So it should be a little interesting. I guess at this point I'll see how it goes. Most likely I'll upgrade or make some changes later on. But for now I want/need to get this thing running.
Most likely that is Tig, can't say for sure. With Tig you control the heat with the Tig torch (electric) and then feed in filler wire with the other hand.
Hey Mike , just went along for your first test drive looked fun,so cool you had the wife along, didn't take long for you to start looking for more power, can't wait to see you swapping over to the Ecotec. How was the carburetor on the stock motor, did it warm up ok and run without hesitation, thought about carb upgrades many times on my Baja but always stayed with the 34pict3 I just bump the main jet up, also I have a 486 ring and pinion, with the 1835 motor I know there is more power to be had.Runnability is just so good I have stayed with what works , would you recommend an after market carb, and if so which one did you have.
Hey Mike, the carb was ok, obviously ran better once the manifold warmed up some. It didn't actually hesitate at all. It was just a lot lower on power than expected. It's a pretty much stock 1600. If I was to pursue the air cooled more I would switch to dual carbs. I think the long manifold was a big source of the low power. EZGZ has dual carbs on most of his rides and those things seem to rip.
I know this is an old video , any chance I could get you to share your secrets to cleaning these engines , your engines look better than new when your done ! I'm collecting parts for mine now , I know you went with 2.4 ecotec out of a cobalt , any reason ? I've seen alot of guys use 2.2 ecotec engines , much difference ?
I liked the 2.4 because it had the VVT. Some people say the 2.2 is a stronger block, but I'm using this engine basically in stock form. And I thought the extra volume and VVT could only help. I clean these engines with degreaser, pressure washer, and a light coat of silver paint. Just to make the aluminum look newer.
Ah yes,junk yards,c can be very interesting.myself I plan to buy whole car take it home chop it up sell everything I can to offset build,I plan on doing same tomy street rail, currently have,914 engine.waiting to see how or if state plans to inspect it ever again,it's plated and insured,they let me buy tags 3years out ,so I think they are leavingme alone.id like to score a supercharged version
Nothing against the Subi, it came down to I found good online info and aftermarket support. And I have a fair amount of experience working on Chevy engines, yet I've never touched a Subi motor. Online I found some nice Subi installs, but basically I was just more comfortable with the Chevy inline 4.
Not really at the time. A friend of mine has that engine for his Manx. It's a good engine, kind of a hidden gem it seems. I was debating between the Ecotec and a Subaru Boxer. However in the junkyard near me there are a lot more Ecotec's then Subaru's. Plus I like inline 4 motors. Very easy to work on and good revving design. I pulled the motor myself at the junkyard with the wiring harness and ECM and paid $235.00. The motor had 113,000 miles on it and the car was totaled in a crash. So far it's been a great little motor.
Mike, Most of the welding on my chassis was done with a 110v flux core welder. I'm pretty sure that is the type of welder you are talking about. If so you need to make sure you have it on a good 20 or 15 amp outlet. And no extension cords unless they are heavy gauge. Typically these welders weld like a champ on up to 1/8" metal. With some heat control they can do 3/16". Anything beyond that gets a little sketchy. With practice this type of welder will work fine for this type of chassis work. The flux core filler metal is not as strong as Mig or Tig, so technically the welds will not be as strong. But that doens't mean they won't be strong enough. If you do go this route practice and make sure you can lay down some good welds before welding on the chassis. Remember that welds on the chassis need to be high quality. Your life and other peoples life might depend on it. If you're questioning your welds, email me some pictures of them and I can help you out. dougbugbuilder@gmail.com
Wow Mike, I really appreciate you getting back with me, I want to buy the right equipment for good welding so I will research I would really like machine that could do 1/4 inch maybe I can find a multipurpose welder i'm sure this means 240v, but I have ben prepared to wire for that , if you know of a unit that could accomplish this maybe you can pass it on to me thanks Mike
Mike, there are a lot of cheap brands these days through multiple suppliers. However I came from a welding background (used to weld for work) so I got accustomed to Lincoln Electric. They have some fantastic Lincoln Electric welders at Home Depot. They offer a 120v and a 240v. With the 240 you could reliably weld 1/4". What's nice is with Lincoln most likely you can get local support from welding gas supply houses. Both of my Lincoln welders I have had for over 20 years with no problems.
Hey mike ,haven't been watching your build for about a week (going through withdraws) I just love your stuff. I have been trying to get my shop together, I took your advice and decided to wait on the purchase of my welder, I have been looking at Tig that can weld 1/4" good chance I will choose Lincoln , I am going to Home Depot today.I am going to buy the wiring and subpanel to run 240v to my shop and while i'm at it going to put 240v right next to my main service on a separate 60amp breaker thhn #6 in the garage, there is a window right there to the carport,sense my shop is in my crawl space 9 foot ceilings,i plan on Tiging down there,that is where I will be running the subpanel I will be looking at the Lincoln,s while I am there. I would like to put my progress on TH-cam, I never put the builds of my Baja or Dune Buggy and regret it now. just have to figure out how to record, what to record with, and how to download it. I will keep you up dated on my shop progress. and now it's a Doug Bug Video. Mike (DESTRAT)
Hey Mike, Sounds like fun. I like building the work area. If I had a suggestion I would say add an extra 240v outlet or two. In my garage I have two of them. But both welders, the plasma cutter, and the air compressor are 240, so I have to plug in and out a lot. As for filming, go for it. Can't hurt to try. All I have for now is one GoPro and some portable fluorescent lights I use for lighting. Just tell your story, edit, and upload. Don't worry about views. Good chance over time they will come. It's takes time though. As always, good to hear from you....;-)
Right! Any engine at this U Pull junkyard is $150 with accessories (no warranty). Then I paid $35 for the ECU and was charged $25 for the motor core, plus some taxes. I think the cheapest part of this swap will be the motor!
Looks pretty good! I can't wait to see how you install it and the radiator
Thanks bud, as of now I plan to put the radiator in front of the fuel cell. But we'll see when I actually get there.
👍 Good stuff mate, I will enjoy this new series 👍
Thanks man, I'm excited to see how it goes.
I can now say I have watched every single one of your vids start to finish.
I have a 72 bug which sounds like it is rusted just as bad as yours was, am hoping to do the same thing you've done!
Thankyou and respect from Australia!
Wow Simon, that's awesome! I hope the videos help and that your build goes smooth. If you need any part numbers or specific info when building yours don't hesitate to ask. I'd like my mistakes to make your build easier and less expensive.
Look into Megasquirt for your engine management. You can build your own or buy one pre-assembled plus the tuning software is free, but I would recommend buying the registered version. They come as an ECU with a pigtail and you build your own harness. There is a ton of user support and videos online to help with wiring and tuning. I just converted my air cooled to fuel injection with a turbo and used one of their ECUs and couldn't be happier.
June Bug, I've always wanted to play with Megasquirt. Nice job on converting it into your air cooled motor, I though about that but it seemed like a lot of work. I think on this motor I'll start by trying to get the stock ECU to work. But after that I'd like to try to switch over to Megasquirt once the bug is up and running. Thanks for the advice.
I am really enjoying your channel. Bugs and motorcycles! Xr350r in the video too! Excellent.
Thanks Buddy! The XR is angy with me now as she has been out of commission for a while and I keep working on the bug and not the bike. lol
What a cool video mike. Love the time lapse, love the music. Good stuff
Thanks Neil, only thing to make it better would be if you were there. ;-)
good pick on the motor I have a buddy with a eco in his bug with a turbo and it's pulling wheelies mind you the transmission cost him an arm and a leg how it's setup but before that it was still fast just burned 1st one up with turbo mod
Holy moly! That's a lot of power. No turbo here, just looking for smooth reliable power.
That dog's like "Hey is that food?"
Lol, yeah he's crazy.
Nice engine...will be interesting !
That yard looks awesome. I thought lawyers made places like that a thing of the past!
Yeah I love the Pick and Pull yards, and this one in particular is really nice.
Watching this in 2021 for scheming on a ecotec sand rail idea. I managed to find a wrecked '06 Pontiac Solstice with only 7k miles on it a few years back. Originally tore it apart for the engine and trans to use in a '68 Morgan +4 project that has since gone a different direction. Laughing cause I'm working on a engine test stand for the ecotec, but it's currently sitting on the exact same Harbor Freight wooden dolly.
Lol, that's funny. The dolly hasn't failed me yet.
Good luck with the build.
Lot's of folks use that engine on a VW platform so there should be plenty of info out there. I'm sure your aware of Kennedy Engineering for a bolt on adapter and flywheel starting mortor set up. If your patient you might even find a used one. Looking forward to your build. Hope it's a good one. Heck at that price it really doesn't matter. I could hear your wife sobbing in the background. ( Hope there is room in the dog house for ya. hehehe
Hey EZGZ, You are right, I've already talked to Kennedy and gone over some options. Don't worry about the wife, she didn't go with so I never told her what I paid. lol
Plus our dog house is nice and big with lots of blankets.
I’ve got the alpha fab industries engine adapter for the 091, ecm tunes for the turbo I added plus there harness. I can say first hand they are a great company really clean products. Also check into cbm they have some nice stuff
I have been looking at Kennedy engine adaptors, but I've been looking at AFI for accessories for the motor, including the harness.
Thanks for the tip.
Hey Doug! Are you not worried about the transaxle keeping up with that engine? Did you upgrade the ring and pinion gears? - Tom
Tom, I am worried, quite a bit actually. I had this transaxle (Bus type 2) rebuilt about 2 years ago from a local shop around here that specializes in VW transaxles. I told him back then that I might put a water cooled motor on it and he wasn't concerned. However I want to reach out to him and find out what all he did to the transaxle and see where I think I'm at. Then I'll have a better idea where I stand.
Doug, Let me know what you find. I was doing some research and I think your transaxle is a 3 rib, from what I saw in another video. It has an R&P of 5.38:1. Looking online, all I found was that the 6 rib has a stronger housing. Let me know what you find out. The internet is not helpful with this combo. --Tom
Tom, I spoke to the guy who built my transaxle today. It does not have upgraded ring and pinions. It is the 3 rib and it does have the 5:38. I got that because I wanted to run 33" tires. He said it has upgraded keyways and welded synchros. And then he said there are some parts of it just built with tighter tolerances than stock, (whatever that means). He said it should be good for about 200hp. I told him I'm putting an Ecotec up to it with about 150hp. He said it should be OK as long as I don't dump the clutch to much, and he said don't use reverse except for backing out of a parking space of flat ground. lol
So it should be a little interesting. I guess at this point I'll see how it goes. Most likely I'll upgrade or make some changes later on. But for now I want/need to get this thing running.
Oh and one more thing Mike , at the ship yard when they weld SS I see them feeding a stick is that tig
Most likely that is Tig, can't say for sure. With Tig you control the heat with the Tig torch (electric) and then feed in filler wire with the other hand.
Hey Mike , just went along for your first test drive looked fun,so cool you had the wife along, didn't take long for you to start looking for more power, can't wait to see you swapping over to the Ecotec. How was the carburetor on the stock motor, did it warm up ok and run without hesitation, thought about carb upgrades many times on my Baja but always stayed with the 34pict3 I just bump the main jet up, also I have a 486 ring and pinion, with the 1835 motor I know there is more power to be had.Runnability is just so good I have stayed with what works , would you recommend an after market carb, and if so which one did you have.
Hey Mike, the carb was ok, obviously ran better once the manifold warmed up some. It didn't actually hesitate at all. It was just a lot lower on power than expected. It's a pretty much stock 1600. If I was to pursue the air cooled more I would switch to dual carbs. I think the long manifold was a big source of the low power. EZGZ has dual carbs on most of his rides and those things seem to rip.
I know this is an old video , any chance I could get you to share your secrets to cleaning these engines , your engines look better than new when your done ! I'm collecting parts for mine now , I know you went with 2.4 ecotec out of a cobalt , any reason ? I've seen alot of guys use 2.2 ecotec engines , much difference ?
I liked the 2.4 because it had the VVT. Some people say the 2.2 is a stronger block, but I'm using this engine basically in stock form. And I thought the extra volume and VVT could only help.
I clean these engines with degreaser, pressure washer, and a light coat of silver paint. Just to make the aluminum look newer.
good choice
Ah yes,junk yards,c can be very interesting.myself I plan to buy whole car take it home chop it up sell everything I can to offset build,I plan on doing same tomy street rail, currently have,914 engine.waiting to see how or if state plans to inspect it ever again,it's plated and insured,they let me buy tags 3years out ,so I think they are leavingme alone.id like to score a supercharged version
Sounds like a good plan. Getting one with a supercharger would be a great score!
So why the eco tech over a Subi engine? Availability or is there some other reason you found that engine more desirable?
Nothing against the Subi, it came down to I found good online info and aftermarket support. And I have a fair amount of experience working on Chevy engines, yet I've never touched a Subi motor.
Online I found some nice Subi installs, but basically I was just more comfortable with the Chevy inline 4.
Did you look at Honda Vtech, 6 cylinder which is a factory Aluminum block/cylinder heads??
What did you pay for the ecotec???
Not really at the time. A friend of mine has that engine for his Manx. It's a good engine, kind of a hidden gem it seems.
I was debating between the Ecotec and a Subaru Boxer. However in the junkyard near me there are a lot more Ecotec's then Subaru's. Plus I like inline 4 motors. Very easy to work on and good revving design. I pulled the motor myself at the junkyard with the wiring harness and ECM and paid $235.00. The motor had 113,000 miles on it and the car was totaled in a crash. So far it's been a great little motor.
Yew new upload
You got it dude.
cbm motorsports has everything
Thanks bud, I'll check them out.
Hi Mike ,what kind of welding could I do with a 125 amp flux core . thanks Mike
Mike, Most of the welding on my chassis was done with a 110v flux core welder. I'm pretty sure that is the type of welder you are talking about. If so you need to make sure you have it on a good 20 or 15 amp outlet. And no extension cords unless they are heavy gauge.
Typically these welders weld like a champ on up to 1/8" metal. With some heat control they can do 3/16". Anything beyond that gets a little sketchy.
With practice this type of welder will work fine for this type of chassis work. The flux core filler metal is not as strong as Mig or Tig, so technically the welds will not be as strong. But that doens't mean they won't be strong enough.
If you do go this route practice and make sure you can lay down some good welds before welding on the chassis. Remember that welds on the chassis need to be high quality. Your life and other peoples life might depend on it.
If you're questioning your welds, email me some pictures of them and I can help you out.
dougbugbuilder@gmail.com
Wow Mike, I really appreciate you getting back with me, I want to buy the right equipment for good welding so I will research I would really like machine that could do 1/4 inch maybe I can find a multipurpose welder i'm sure this means 240v, but I have ben prepared to wire for that , if you know of a unit that could accomplish this maybe you can pass it on to me thanks Mike
Mike, there are a lot of cheap brands these days through multiple suppliers. However I came from a welding background (used to weld for work) so I got accustomed to Lincoln Electric. They have some fantastic Lincoln Electric welders at Home Depot. They offer a 120v and a 240v. With the 240 you could reliably weld 1/4". What's nice is with Lincoln most likely you can get local support from welding gas supply houses. Both of my Lincoln welders I have had for over 20 years with no problems.
Hey mike ,haven't been watching your build for about a week (going through withdraws) I just love your stuff. I have been trying to get my shop together, I took your advice and decided to wait on the purchase of my welder, I have been looking at Tig that can weld 1/4" good chance I will choose Lincoln , I am going to Home Depot today.I am going to buy the wiring and subpanel to run 240v to my shop and while i'm at it going to put 240v right next to my main service on a separate 60amp breaker thhn #6 in the garage, there is a window right there to the carport,sense my shop is in my crawl space 9 foot ceilings,i plan on Tiging down there,that is where I will be running the subpanel I will be looking at the Lincoln,s while I am there. I would like to put my progress on TH-cam, I never put the builds of my Baja or Dune Buggy and regret it now. just have to figure out how to record, what to record with, and how to download it. I will keep you up dated on my shop progress. and now it's a Doug Bug Video. Mike (DESTRAT)
Hey Mike, Sounds like fun. I like building the work area. If I had a suggestion I would say add an extra 240v outlet or two. In my garage I have two of them. But both welders, the plasma cutter, and the air compressor are 240, so I have to plug in and out a lot.
As for filming, go for it. Can't hurt to try. All I have for now is one GoPro and some portable fluorescent lights I use for lighting. Just tell your story, edit, and upload. Don't worry about views. Good chance over time they will come. It's takes time though.
As always, good to hear from you....;-)
Holy crap thats cheap.
Right! Any engine at this U Pull junkyard is $150 with accessories (no warranty). Then I paid $35 for the ECU and was charged $25 for the motor core, plus some taxes. I think the cheapest part of this swap will be the motor!