My TS-100 was not used for months and now the OLED is almost dead. I ordered new OLED, and I am waiting they will arrive. I did not throw it away to take a new TS-80, because I have the TS-100 full set aluminium box with the full set of possible iron tips that exists on the market. This video helped me to decide to keep and repair my TS-100. I think that when the TS-100 is used for long time at high temperature around 380°-400° trying to desolder the bloody hi-temp industrial tin, the OLED get too much heat and the OLED become damaged. When I will dismount it, I am thinking to insulate the OLED by putting under some KAPTON tape and a special thin insulation material that should prevent the OLED to receive the internal heat.
I used to love repairing stuff like that and computers .. I owned a computer shop in UK .. but when I moved to Asia things changed .. plus my eyes sight went really bad after a stroke and now I lucky if I see the table .. LOL
My screen died while on the shelf for 6 months. I bought a new micro soldering rig so I put the TS-100 in a case and stored it for when I had a mobile repair job needing the portability.After about 6-8 months in a box, unplugged, it let me down when I needed it! I feel the particular display used in the manufacturing is batch defective. Thanks for all your fantastic content!
Thanks to this video, I finally got around to replacing mine with the screen I bought over 2 years ago. I don't have another iron, but I used a rework station at 330°C and some flux and it was much easier than I thought!
Watched a few times, ordered spare display, paused and then embarked on the exercise. Glad I watched video a few times AND had a handy little USB Cheapo solderin iron and job done, worked 2nd time! like you I had to do the reflow twice, using flux but worked. Thanks for an amazing video and saving me $US50!
Your videos are inspiring! I particularly like that you include your failed attempts. Makes me feel better about mine and reminds me that you can always try again
I repaired mine as well. Just be careful when desoldering. I pulled too hard on the old display and ripped off 3 pads from the pcb! Took me hours to fix that with wire strand bridges (like with broken trace repairs).
Hello bro They have holes for allignment both on flex cable and on the pcb. When you allign them and put somestick or anything on them you can easily allign. Keep up your nice work.
great video. I suspect those connectors have redundancies at the connections in terms of electrical connectivity, because I suspect I didn't connect it perfectly and it still shows the graphics correctly.
One of the coolest videos I've watched in a long time. I'm not sure what my shaky hands could do with it but, this video makes me want to buy a TS100 soldering iron.
Fun fact, I don't have a steady hand at all! The trick is learning how to brace your hands/wrists so you don't _have_ to hold things steady. My left hand holding the display was resting on the vice, so it wouldn't wobble.
Aligning pins with masking tape then soldering 1 pin on the edge . Check the alignment and solder pin on the other side , thereafter the middle ones . Anyway we’ll done on getting it sorted 👍
hahaha, amazingly I had EXACTLY the same issue, did a video on it too! Ordered a pinecil, and fixed the ts-100 with that. funny how much of a similarity our videos have, even took me 2 attempts to align that screen!
Been putting off the repair of mine for many months now, just ordered a new screen from Aliexpress which will take at least another month to get here. In my case most of the pixels stopped working while just a few are still fine so I can sort of guess what temperature it's at. But the weird part is that it got like this after months of not using it at all. While it was still new it might have become less bright over time but at least all the pixels worked. Would actually prefer some old school calculator type LCD since OLED has such a short lifespan even when not used.
Tried to replace mine today. Firstly, when I removed the original screen a piece of the flat stayed glue to the solder pads. It was a little tricky to remove. Secondly, I soldered the new OLED display and it worked... for some seconds. After that, it started blinking and sometimes shuts off. I passed the soldering iron on the screen's flat cable again and it worked (for some time again...). I removed it and soldered it again and the same behavior happens. Removed this screen and put a new one (I've bought four of them) and... the same thing happens. I think the display I bought is not liking the way we need to curve the flat. Finally, I decided to change a little where the flat curves (putting the foam far from where the flat solders for making it doesn't bend too close to the display) and now it's working (at least for last 30 minutes).
Good job, if I remember correctly you mentioned in another video that you power your TS100 with a Toshiba laptop charger, is this correct? I’m thinking of buying one of these over a TS80 (the USBC connector might cause problems, which one would you recommend?)
The screen on mine is failing, I'm going to have to attempt this soon, not looking forward to it! I have the same problem, my other soldering iron is as bad as yours! I had exactly the same hope it had a socket! :(
Smashing recovery with a tiny display :-D I did see the two alignment holes in the ribbon and the pcb, i bet there was a plastic staple to keep the holes lined up. Not supplied with the display :-(
love the ts100. so versatile, portable, wide voltage input, can be powered from lipo batteries, wall warts, laptop adapters, etc. how do you get yours to go to 400C from the startup? mine only goes to 300 and I have to manually set it to 400.
@@Adamant_IT yeah, you have to use a MicroUSB cable, connect it to a PC, and edit the config file. I ended up actually installing IronOS on it which is a custom firmware and has all the settings available by navigating the buttons and can go up to 450C now which helps with thick large wires or copper bus bars :)
Running a hot soldering iron tip across connections makes me very nervous. If any of the pads are about to come loose that action would in all probability help the pads come off. My suggestion would be to hold the iron parallel to the length of the circuit board, placing the hot tip firmly on just a few contacts at one time being mindful of the heat transferring.
I was attempting the 'walk' technique, where you gently pull and heat everything one at a time, so it comes off in steps - but yea it wasn't very effective here. As you saw, using the length of the tip as a hot bar (as intended) was indeed what did the trick!
i think it might also burn, if your electrical supply to it isn't clean. I probably ruined mine either because of no grounding or because of unstable voltage.
I had mine stored in its box for a few years (was working fine when I put it in) and the display still failed, I think they are susceptible to oxidation or some other form of degradation.
I strongly suggest you to flash Ralim firmware on this iron, it will give you acces to all the advanced options and a better interface. Flashing it is as easy as connecting the iron to pc and copying the firmware hex file to it.
Just come here after ripping the screen off the ribbon cable on my TS101. I sure hope I can wrangle replacing it - assuming I can find the part. Iron still works but it's no good not being able to see what it's doing
Lol! That was fun! You should have looked at the replacement video I did last year - would have showed you lots more problems you could have demonstrated :) Take care.
You should of used a fine tip and with flux and tacked it on either side and then flood filled each pin, that’s what the little holes in the flex are for, but you got it on, you could invest in one of those wide bar tips for heating connectors.
I have a similar oled display running on an arduino project and have noticed that charactars that are perminantly on are now much dimmer than numbers that change (after about 12 months continuous use)
I've always used flux... when it's needed. People only see what they want to though. Already read the other comments telling me I used way too much flux 🙃
@@gxc90 Go on github and search for "ralim" or "IronOS". Then it's a matter of plugging the soldering iron to a computer using a USB cable and copying a single file. Ralim software is an alternative firmware that gives you much more accessible menu and a VERY useful "boost mode" where you can change the temperature from let's say 360degC to 420 for a few moments with a single button press. You can also upload your own pixellated logo as a starting screen.
If you see Adrian's digital basement though, unplugging it too many times can break the jack and land you with a repair as well... Maybe try shutting the power supply off? 😂
I've now got a handy PSU with a built-in power switch (like, literally on the brick) that's perfect for these electronic irons. If I hadn't come across it, I'd have probably modded another supply with an in-line switch or something.
I'm not sure your problem was plugging it in too many times. Mine worked fine (full brightness) since I bought it up to 6 months ago. I didn't use it for 5 months, and when I plugged it in last month the brightness was down to maybe 15%. From what I've read in a few forums, this seems to happen a lot (sudden drop in brightness, not just slow "ageing"). Just poor quality displays, I guess. And mine is actually from MiniWare, not even a clone. BTW, the UG-9616TSW displays you can find all over eBay won't work. Same number of pins, same resolution, almost exactly the same size, but I guess the pinout / driver is different. I tried two (neither even lit up) and ended up putting the original one back on while I wait for a PG-9616TSWD.
I don't think there are clones. It's chinese already and the chinese appear to have a 'code of honor' to not just copy their own brand names (e.g. it's practically impossible to find a 'fake xiaomi phone'). What CAN exist is the initial batches to be better than later cheaper batches etc.
Should buy a ksger t12 I have it and the ts100 and it's so much better especially on large joints + the fact that their is 10 times the kinds of tips and cost about a fifth the price
You got off easy there take it from a pro at destroying hot bars I usually apply a lot of solder to avoid ripping the hot bar you should also use plenty of flux
Merci pour cette vidéo qui m'a aidé à réparer mon ts100. Comme quoi, il faut toujours avoir un deuxième fer à souder sous la main car dans la vie 2=1 et 1=0
Is the ts 100 worth the money even though I know it's relatively cheap but $50 to a $100 bucks is still $50 or a $100 bucks that I don't want to just throw away!
Yea I think it's a great iron for electronics work. Lot of folks prefer the TS80 because USB Type-C, but I think the barrel jack on the TS100 is easier to work with - doesn't need a USB C charger, just anything with power coming out of it. TS100 is a shade more powerful as well. The other iron I have on order is a PineCil, which has USB-C _and_ a barrel jack, so may well be the magic combination. Waiting for delivery from China though.
I use knock-off amtech flux from ebay. It's been fine up until the current tube I have, which is like treacle. Wouldn't recommend it, I'm just too lazy to track down some proper stuff.
Dear Sir : LOL IMHO this is an instructional and funny video ! I personalyhope to get s.th. to learn from it . Hoping to get a start position , during Your esteemable BBR, I salute You with Best and humble Regards
I used this, works fine: www.buydisplay.com/graphic-i2c-0-69-inch-96x16-oled-display-mp3-module-white-on-black I have one spare if you would be willing to refund me the shipping costs from germany.
Cool, very stylish and powerful soldering iron but I highly, highly recommend, my other favorite tool (the other is a digital caliper by General) is my new soldering workstation, the amazing KSGER T12 (2.0 something firmware, the new one is 3.1 something) which will be an upgrade to my butane Iroda (will now be used for blowtorching, heat gun stuff and hot knife stuff and adhoc lighter) and will be an upgrade to the TS80 and TS100, coz' the T12 also has a battery powered version (rechargeable) and the heating element is the much superior JVC and Hakko's (the heating element is in the tip itself). It heats very fast, has two fuses for the main transformer (for the mains) and secondary one. It's very stylish and more affordable too:-) especially if you buy the 10 piece Hakko compatible Direct Drive tips. God bless, Rev. 21:4
Oleds dying quickly just means they didn't invest in software to have color shift refreshing instead of static refreshing. Look at an oled phone screen on youtube and you should see the refresh cycles. It's that wavy effect. If you don't do this, then yes oleds have a very short sub 1000 hour lifespan in a best case scenario.
these screens are in most Ecig Mods!!...i switched many of them!....never use hotair! a big Solder blob and fast working is the way to go! if u cant find one of these, take your buddys "Istick" and remove it from there^^ u are very lucky that you dont ruin the new screen with that piece of crap tip... Dude.....if u want to plug the new screen on the pcb...dont do it like you way! you have to solder first and last pin at the beginn and after that, look thats fit proper in place and after that you have to solder one by one every other pin! Most pins are groud or N.C....cause its a i2c display that use only 4 to 8 pins!
i love this video, precisely because it's not flawless. it shows some of the basic steps of difficulty with this sort of tiny connector.
My TS-100 was not used for months and now the OLED is almost dead. I ordered new OLED, and I am waiting they will arrive. I did not throw it away to take a new TS-80, because I have the TS-100 full set aluminium box with the full set of possible iron tips that exists on the market.
This video helped me to decide to keep and repair my TS-100.
I think that when the TS-100 is used for long time at high temperature around 380°-400° trying to desolder the bloody hi-temp industrial tin, the OLED get too much heat and the OLED become damaged. When I will dismount it, I am thinking to insulate the OLED by putting under some KAPTON tape and a special thin insulation material that should prevent the OLED to receive the internal heat.
I used to love repairing stuff like that and computers .. I owned a computer shop in UK .. but when I moved to Asia things changed .. plus my eyes sight went really bad after a stroke and now I lucky if I see the table .. LOL
My screen died while on the shelf for 6 months. I bought a new micro soldering rig so I put the TS-100 in a case and stored it for when I had a mobile repair job needing the portability.After about 6-8 months in a box, unplugged, it let me down when I needed it! I feel the particular display used in the manufacturing is batch defective. Thanks for all your fantastic content!
Thanks to this video, I finally got around to replacing mine with the screen I bought over 2 years ago. I don't have another iron, but I used a rework station at 330°C and some flux and it was much easier than I thought!
That moment when you need a soldering iron to fix your soldering iron.
yep, and it's funniest when you start doing the job, and then realize wait a second I'm occupying the soldering iron.
Watched a few times, ordered spare display, paused and then embarked on the exercise. Glad I watched video a few times AND had a handy little USB Cheapo solderin iron and job done, worked 2nd time! like you I had to do the reflow twice, using flux but worked. Thanks for an amazing video and saving me $US50!
LOL, click on a relaxing Adamant IT video...nearly have an anxiety attack watching him solder a screen in :P
🤣 Best entertainment I’ve had in a while! Nice to see your soldering skills have not deteriorated any more. As always here’s a BIG FAT 👍 from me! 🇬🇧
Your videos are inspiring! I particularly like that you include your failed attempts. Makes me feel better about mine and reminds me that you can always try again
Thank you.... Was looking for this for ages... Gave up a year ago and have just been guessing lol... Followed your guide got it 1st go.
I repaired mine as well. Just be careful when desoldering. I pulled too hard on the old display and ripped off 3 pads from the pcb! Took me hours to fix that with wire strand bridges (like with broken trace repairs).
Thanks for this; needing to replace my OLED today and this really helps. Cheers !
Which came first? The soldering iron or soldering iron?
Great video man.
Didn't even blink my eyes for a sec. While watching this video.
Hello bro
They have holes for allignment both on flex cable and on the pcb. When you allign them and put somestick or anything on them you can easily allign.
Keep up your nice work.
Yönergelerinden yola çıkarak başarılı bir şekilde ekranı değiştirdiğim için mutluyum. Teşekkürler.
great video. I suspect those connectors have redundancies at the connections in terms of electrical connectivity, because I suspect I didn't connect it perfectly and it still shows the graphics correctly.
One of the coolest videos I've watched in a long time.
I'm not sure what my shaky hands could do with it but, this video makes me want to buy a TS100 soldering iron.
Fun fact, I don't have a steady hand at all! The trick is learning how to brace your hands/wrists so you don't _have_ to hold things steady. My left hand holding the display was resting on the vice, so it wouldn't wobble.
@@Adamant_IT now, I just need to come up with a reason to "Need" one. LoL. Thanks
The things you watch at nearly 2am on a Wednesday morning ..... I've meetings starting in 6 hours!
Aligning pins with masking tape then soldering 1 pin on the edge . Check the alignment and solder pin on the other side , thereafter the middle ones . Anyway we’ll done on getting it sorted 👍
hahaha, amazingly I had EXACTLY the same issue, did a video on it too! Ordered a pinecil, and fixed the ts-100 with that. funny how much of a similarity our videos have, even took me 2 attempts to align that screen!
Been putting off the repair of mine for many months now, just ordered a new screen from Aliexpress which will take at least another month to get here. In my case most of the pixels stopped working while just a few are still fine so I can sort of guess what temperature it's at. But the weird part is that it got like this after months of not using it at all. While it was still new it might have become less bright over time but at least all the pixels worked. Would actually prefer some old school calculator type LCD since OLED has such a short lifespan even when not used.
Thanks for guide, dude! I need to do the same thing and now I know what I’m going to face with and which part I need 👍
Great video Graham, thanks. As relatively simple as you made that look I hope I don’t have to that to my TS100!!!
Tried to replace mine today. Firstly, when I removed the original screen a piece of the flat stayed glue to the solder pads. It was a little tricky to remove. Secondly, I soldered the new OLED display and it worked... for some seconds. After that, it started blinking and sometimes shuts off. I passed the soldering iron on the screen's flat cable again and it worked (for some time again...). I removed it and soldered it again and the same behavior happens. Removed this screen and put a new one (I've bought four of them) and... the same thing happens. I think the display I bought is not liking the way we need to curve the flat. Finally, I decided to change a little where the flat curves (putting the foam far from where the flat solders for making it doesn't bend too close to the display) and now it's working (at least for last 30 minutes).
And.. stopped again.
"thinking about buying a 2nd ts100 just for this case :D"
Good job, if I remember correctly you mentioned in another video that you power your TS100 with a Toshiba laptop charger, is this correct? I’m thinking of buying one of these over a TS80 (the USBC connector might cause problems, which one would you recommend?)
MiniWare makes awesome quality products.
Apart from the screen
There are 2 holes on the screen ribbons and on the board. looks like those are for aligning them properly.
The screen on mine is failing, I'm going to have to attempt this soon, not looking forward to it! I have the same problem, my other soldering iron is as bad as yours!
I had exactly the same hope it had a socket! :(
Smashing recovery with a tiny display :-D
I did see the two alignment holes in the ribbon and the pcb, i bet there was a plastic staple to keep the holes lined up.
Not supplied with the display :-(
Hi, following your video, I managed to fix my TS100, thanks a lot
i personally would of put the second sponge in over the connector, mus tof been there for a reason
I was thinking the same thing as I watched him reassemble it.
I thought the same thing! Just don't put any pressure on that end of the screen or you will push it in and maybe even crack the cable. :-/
There is plastic in the case. Screen is under the plastic. I wont press down.
Did hear correctly - did you refer to your other soldering iron as your "peasant soldering iron?" 😂
Works perfect, it was easier than I thought, thanks ! :)
Good job mate, I'd say that'll come in handy soon enough.
Brilliant video Graham, went out and bought one, none of my ppwer bricks fit, which make and modle are you using,
5.5mm OD 2.5mm ID barrel jack. 65w toshiba laptop chargers have this tip on them, so they're an easy fit.
Same problem here a few weeks ago. Burned oled screen. Replaced it and oled screen is working again. Very common faillure on the ts100 .
Nice !....I unplug mine every time but the screen still went bad right out of the blue....cheers.
love the ts100. so versatile, portable, wide voltage input, can be powered from lipo batteries, wall warts, laptop adapters, etc.
how do you get yours to go to 400C from the startup? mine only goes to 300 and I have to manually set it to 400.
I think the starting temp is in the settings somewhere, I set mine ages ago and can't remember!
@@Adamant_IT yeah, you have to use a MicroUSB cable, connect it to a PC, and edit the config file.
I ended up actually installing IronOS on it which is a custom firmware and has all the settings available by navigating the buttons and can go up to 450C now which helps with thick large wires or copper bus bars :)
That wide scraper tip might make it easier, to solder many at the same time.
I doff my cap sir. Well done 👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼👍🏼🙂✌🏼
Running a hot soldering iron tip across connections makes me very nervous. If any of the pads are about to come loose that action would in all probability help the pads come off. My suggestion would be to hold the iron parallel to the length of the circuit board, placing the hot tip firmly on just a few contacts at one time being mindful of the heat transferring.
I was attempting the 'walk' technique, where you gently pull and heat everything one at a time, so it comes off in steps - but yea it wasn't very effective here. As you saw, using the length of the tip as a hot bar (as intended) was indeed what did the trick!
great video! I love my TS100, didn't realise the screen could wear out but of course it makes sense, since it's OLED
i think it might also burn, if your electrical supply to it isn't clean. I probably ruined mine either because of no grounding or because of unstable voltage.
This video helps me a lot! Thank you! 🤩👍
informative as usual , thanks for sharing!
I had mine stored in its box for a few years (was working fine when I put it in) and the display still failed, I think they are susceptible to oxidation or some other form of degradation.
I strongly suggest you to flash Ralim firmware on this iron, it will give you acces to all the advanced options and a better interface. Flashing it is as easy as connecting the iron to pc and copying the firmware hex file to it.
great video
Just come here after ripping the screen off the ribbon cable on my TS101. I sure hope I can wrangle replacing it - assuming I can find the part. Iron still works but it's no good not being able to see what it's doing
Lol! That was fun! You should have looked at the replacement video I did last year - would have showed you lots more problems you could have demonstrated :) Take care.
Just watched your video. Yup, some good tips on there.
@@JohnIrwin Thanks John!
You should of used a fine tip and with flux and tacked it on either side and then flood filled each pin, that’s what the little holes in the flex are for, but you got it on, you could invest in one of those wide bar tips for heating connectors.
That was satisfying!
I have a similar oled display running on an arduino project and have noticed that charactars that are perminantly on are now much dimmer than numbers that change (after about 12 months continuous use)
Glad to see your finally using flux. You just need to use more lol. Did you update the firmware on your TS100? Looks stock.
How does one update the firmware on these TS-100 soldering irons?
I've always used flux... when it's needed. People only see what they want to though. Already read the other comments telling me I used way too much flux 🙃
@@gxc90 Go on github and search for "ralim" or "IronOS". Then it's a matter of plugging the soldering iron to a computer using a USB cable and copying a single file.
Ralim software is an alternative firmware that gives you much more accessible menu and a VERY useful "boost mode" where you can change the temperature from let's say 360degC to 420 for a few moments with a single button press. You can also upload your own pixellated logo as a starting screen.
Good job
What do you look for on Ali express? What's the name of the screen? Also can you make some new board repair video not Mac please
If you see Adrian's digital basement though, unplugging it too many times can break the jack and land you with a repair as well... Maybe try shutting the power supply off? 😂
I've now got a handy PSU with a built-in power switch (like, literally on the brick) that's perfect for these electronic irons. If I hadn't come across it, I'd have probably modded another supply with an in-line switch or something.
I'm not sure your problem was plugging it in too many times. Mine worked fine (full brightness) since I bought it up to 6 months ago. I didn't use it for 5 months, and when I plugged it in last month the brightness was down to maybe 15%. From what I've read in a few forums, this seems to happen a lot (sudden drop in brightness, not just slow "ageing"). Just poor quality displays, I guess. And mine is actually from MiniWare, not even a clone.
BTW, the UG-9616TSW displays you can find all over eBay won't work. Same number of pins, same resolution, almost exactly the same size, but I guess the pinout / driver is different. I tried two (neither even lit up) and ended up putting the original one back on while I wait for a PG-9616TSWD.
I don't think there are clones. It's chinese already and the chinese appear to have a 'code of honor' to not just copy their own brand names (e.g. it's practically impossible to find a 'fake xiaomi phone'). What CAN exist is the initial batches to be better than later cheaper batches etc.
Thank you so much
Another job done
good job!
Hay on ts1000 you forgot to put on the rubber pad by the screen connector.
When Russians hear "I'm going to grab some alcohol, where is my alcohol", that's definitely not what they are expecting to see next 🤣
I really like watching ur videos :)
Cool vid 👍
it's a good iron but i just couldn't get used to mine went back to a more conventional solder station
Should buy a ksger t12 I have it and the ts100 and it's so much better especially on large joints + the fact that their is 10 times the kinds of tips and cost about a fifth the price
you said you replaced your WEP station which is also your hot air right? what are you using now for hot air?
I bought the baby Quick 👌
Video about it out on monday or tuesday!
@@Adamant_IT Graham you should have bought the KSGER cheaper and better smd rework station and the T12 soldering station
PS great vids
@@Adamant_IT nice!! looking forward to it
nice fix mate
nice video
You got off easy there take it from a pro at destroying hot bars I usually apply a lot of solder to avoid ripping the hot bar you should also use plenty of flux
Did you just soldered the soldering iron. lol
Hi bud well done on your first hot shot connector l think that what you called it lol 😆 and great vid
Merci pour cette vidéo qui m'a aidé à réparer mon ts100. Comme quoi, il faut toujours avoir un deuxième fer à souder sous la main car dans la vie 2=1 et 1=0
does any one know where to buy the copper clips inside the handle that hold the tips
good job
Is the ts 100 worth the money even though I know it's relatively cheap but $50 to a $100 bucks is still $50 or a $100 bucks that I don't want to just throw away!
Yea I think it's a great iron for electronics work. Lot of folks prefer the TS80 because USB Type-C, but I think the barrel jack on the TS100 is easier to work with - doesn't need a USB C charger, just anything with power coming out of it. TS100 is a shade more powerful as well.
The other iron I have on order is a PineCil, which has USB-C _and_ a barrel jack, so may well be the magic combination. Waiting for delivery from China though.
I wonder if you could have put on a zif connector yourself just as an up-grade.
There's room for one, but tbh the flex was really easy to deal with once I'd taken a couple of tries. Pretty forgiving too.
Which flux do you use/recommend? Do you have a link?
I use knock-off amtech flux from ebay. It's been fine up until the current tube I have, which is like treacle. Wouldn't recommend it, I'm just too lazy to track down some proper stuff.
@@Adamant_IT Graham give Kingbo RMA-218 a try. I can send you a tube if you like?
Wise man say.... to clean a hoover you need a hoover (old chinese proverb) :-)
Bro pls hp2560p no power how to fixing
Dear Sir : LOL IMHO this is an instructional and funny video ! I personalyhope to get s.th. to learn from it .
Hoping to get a start position , during Your esteemable BBR, I salute You with
Best and humble Regards
When you were a kid that would have been a gaming display #pong 🤣🤣🤣
th-cam.com/video/qCC941xKuBs/w-d-xo.html
You can play Tetris on TS100 :)
th-cam.com/video/Xa2kTvWTaVs/w-d-xo.html
Kinda random question: What are your thoughts on Henry Cavill's video of him building his first gaming PC? Did he do it right?
Why is this under "LFC", this should be under "LFSI"
Your definition of a computer might differ from his.
@Lockheed C-130 Hercules Well, you are not wrong
I hadn´t seen your hands shaking like that before, are you OK?
Please point to an alternative link on AliExpress, the part used in your link above has been tripped in price ^^ - Thx
I used this, works fine: www.buydisplay.com/graphic-i2c-0-69-inch-96x16-oled-display-mp3-module-white-on-black
I have one spare if you would be willing to refund me the shipping costs from germany.
Cool, very stylish and powerful soldering iron but I highly, highly recommend, my other favorite tool (the other is a digital caliper by General) is my new soldering workstation, the amazing KSGER T12 (2.0 something firmware, the new one is 3.1 something) which will be an upgrade to my butane Iroda (will now be used for blowtorching, heat gun stuff and hot knife stuff and adhoc lighter) and will be an upgrade to the TS80 and TS100, coz' the T12 also has a battery powered version (rechargeable) and the heating element is the much superior JVC and Hakko's (the heating element is in the tip itself). It heats very fast, has two fuses for the main transformer (for the mains) and secondary one. It's very stylish and more affordable too:-) especially if you buy the 10 piece Hakko compatible Direct Drive tips.
God bless, Rev. 21:4
Oleds dying quickly just means they didn't invest in software to have color shift refreshing instead of static refreshing. Look at an oled phone screen on youtube and you should see the refresh cycles. It's that wavy effect. If you don't do this, then yes oleds have a very short sub 1000 hour lifespan in a best case scenario.
Hopefully that was fixed in the ralim firmware 👍
I need to try updating the firmware on mine, it's probably a million years out of date.
i am never this early
ffs the riboon cable has alignment holes for a reason, use them
Hi! I recomande you QuiCK TS1300
Gg
hi
these screens are in most Ecig Mods!!...i switched many of them!....never use hotair! a big Solder blob and fast working is the way to go!
if u cant find one of these, take your buddys "Istick" and remove it from there^^
u are very lucky that you dont ruin the new screen with that piece of crap tip...
Dude.....if u want to plug the new screen on the pcb...dont do it like you way! you have to solder first and last pin at the beginn and after that, look thats fit proper in place and after that you have to solder one by one every other pin!
Most pins are groud or N.C....cause its a i2c display that use only 4 to 8 pins!
no flux and worst iron with worst tip. i will deffinettly did not post work like this
way too much flux and with the length of time you heated the pcb pads you were lucky they didn't lift