Love to see Tommy “I’ve been climbing for a long time” Caldwell give us his two cents 😂 Great little intro video! I appreciated Tommy’s comments about simul climbing.
Glad you enjoyed it. The use case of the direct attachment for simul climbing is one I never thought of till he said it but definitely makes a lot of sense.
In my opinion This climber (Tom) in spain is very apreciated . in other words is good introduction this video : 4:38 . I try several devices edelrid and the quality is better than others differents devices . i think i'll buy it . ( excuse me for my english is not so that i'd like it)
It does pay out slack slightly easier than a Grigri, although it’s not as smooth as a Neox, which is in a league of its own when it comes to this. Again, it's definitely an improvement over the Grigri in this regard, although you will still find yourself using the thumb press trick at times. You can see when Tommy is feeding out slack in the video that he is actually using this technique.
When it comes to normal belaying totally agree. It’s pretty hard to cross load something that you are holding, as you should be while belaying. While simul climbing, especially in the fashion that Tommy does it would be more likely.
You shouldn't learn from hownot2. You should seek out adequate training/ certification in your field or sport. Cross loading a carabineer absolutely IS a potential danger. I have personally rolled out of and come disconnected from a triple locking petzl carabineer during rope access work. Just because hownot2 tests stuff on a hydraulic static pull doesn't mean that will translate to your dynamic life.
We do not have any first hand experience with it for TR solo (Edelrid do not recommend it for this use) although if we hear of any we’ll be sure to let you know. Based on my experience using it as a belay device I could see it performing better then a Grigri due to the direct attachment option however it will still be nowhere near as smooth as a Microtraxion or similar.
This device is actually so good from all what I see online and the people recommending it, I believe it was the right step instead of going the NEOX route that Petzl took. I just want to add that, I used to be afraid and skeptical of the device opening if I clip it to harness directly, but to solve this matter, make it 100% not gonna open and no worries about it unclipping, you can just clip it to harness, and then clip any small (any) carabiner through its hole to lock it from opening at all. doing this will remove any fear from it opening , and keep it close to your body, having the advantages of giving more slack and more control.
Thanks for the message and beta about the back up option when using the direct attachment feature. We’ve been using preproduction models of the Pinch since the winter and I 100% agree that the likely hood of it opening when directly attached to the belay loop is about equal to that of a locking carabiner. It is pretty amazing that we have so many great options for people to choose when it comes to these specialty devices.
@@climbonequipment woah that is amazing to hear, it is just that as climbers we are not used to it I guess. Plus as an engineer, when it comes to climbing gear, I have to make sure I have 3+ safety factor, and a dumb people factor of 100 XD honestly, all my friends and me are willing to get it, it is just hard to do so in the middle east cuz of all the hassle of shipping and import taxes.
@@daanschone1548 I mean, I am not talking from experience, I am only talking from an engineering perspective. The likelihood of the Pinch being better than the rest is much much higher than the rest
@@hashimnameer1308 I'm talking from experience. The Pinch doesn't belay any better than a grigri 2. And it doesn't fit on thick belay loops. The Neox though belays super smooth.
Funny how one of the worse feature of grigri+ so called anti panic mode is copied. At least they realize that iris annoying enough to tell you how to deactivate it.
Speaking as somebody who’s used a grigri+ for two years: the anti panic lock is fine. It’s confusing for 30 seconds the first time you pick it up and then never really bothers you again.
@@think-some-time I completely disagree. Talking from someone who used it for a couple year before I ditched it. Almost every other time I lower someone it comes into play which only means I lower them normally by forcing the handle a bit more but it is annoying and is happening all the time for a very doubtful benefit.
If you have any specific questions, let us know. We have had a pre-production sample for quite some time now and can provide feedback on anything you’re curious about. As a store that sells many different belay devices, our bias is minimal, and we are realistic with the idea that no single item is perfect for everything. Once the Pinch is available for purchase, we will most likely produce an independent opinion video on it, similar to what we did for the Neox.
@@climbonequipment yeah most likely that is the reason. Here in the states specifically California “beaner” is the derogatory term for Mexicans… but most likely anyone south of the boarder.
Love to see Tommy “I’ve been climbing for a long time” Caldwell give us his two cents 😂
Great little intro video! I appreciated Tommy’s comments about simul climbing.
Glad you enjoyed it. The use case of the direct attachment for simul climbing is one I never thought of till he said it but definitely makes a lot of sense.
Never heard of him 🤷🏼♂️
In my opinion This climber (Tom) in spain is very apreciated . in other words is good introduction this video : 4:38 . I try several devices edelrid and the quality is better than others differents devices . i think i'll buy it . ( excuse me for my english is not so that i'd like it)
love how they say "other mechanical belay devices" when they obviously mean a grigri
You know it!
Definitely excited to try this out
Be sure to let us know what you think. Hopefully they become available soon.
Funny that Petzl glove
You can’t fault us for being biased to one brand over the other 😃
Does it have the weird thumb press thing when paying out slack quickly like the gri gri? Or does it just feed without it like the neox or lifeguard?
It does pay out slack slightly easier than a Grigri, although it’s not as smooth as a Neox, which is in a league of its own when it comes to this.
Again, it's definitely an improvement over the Grigri in this regard, although you will still find yourself using the thumb press trick at times. You can see when Tommy is feeding out slack in the video that he is actually using this technique.
If HowNot2 has taught us anything it's that unproven fears like cross loading is nothing to worry about
When it comes to normal belaying totally agree. It’s pretty hard to cross load something that you are holding, as you should be while belaying.
While simul climbing, especially in the fashion that Tommy does it would be more likely.
You shouldn't learn from hownot2. You should seek out adequate training/ certification in your field or sport. Cross loading a carabineer absolutely IS a potential danger. I have personally rolled out of and come disconnected from a triple locking petzl carabineer during rope access work. Just because hownot2 tests stuff on a hydraulic static pull doesn't mean that will translate to your dynamic life.
Don't they make screw top beer bottles in the U.S?
Maybe, but us Canadians love our none screw top bottles 🍻🇨🇦
What kind of screwdriver is needed for that panic screw? Nothing I have works.
when is this going to be available? i thought it was supposed to be released already
We do not have a firm delivery date yet although the unofficial word is sometime in August.
Anyone used it for TR SOLO? I saw some youtube and guy says at least bettyer than grigri for it.
We do not have any first hand experience with it for TR solo (Edelrid do not recommend it for this use) although if we hear of any we’ll be sure to let you know.
Based on my experience using it as a belay device I could see it performing better then a Grigri due to the direct attachment option however it will still be nowhere near as smooth as a Microtraxion or similar.
This device is actually so good from all what I see online and the people recommending it, I believe it was the right step instead of going the NEOX route that Petzl took.
I just want to add that, I used to be afraid and skeptical of the device opening if I clip it to harness directly, but to solve this matter, make it 100% not gonna open and no worries about it unclipping, you can just clip it to harness, and then clip any small (any) carabiner through its hole to lock it from opening at all. doing this will remove any fear from it opening , and keep it close to your body, having the advantages of giving more slack and more control.
Thanks for the message and beta about the back up option when using the direct attachment feature. We’ve been using preproduction models of the Pinch since the winter and I 100% agree that the likely hood of it opening when directly attached to the belay loop is about equal to that of a locking carabiner.
It is pretty amazing that we have so many great options for people to choose when it comes to these specialty devices.
@@climbonequipment woah that is amazing to hear, it is just that as climbers we are not used to it I guess. Plus as an engineer, when it comes to climbing gear, I have to make sure I have 3+ safety factor, and a dumb people factor of 100
XD
honestly, all my friends and me are willing to get it, it is just hard to do so in the middle east cuz of all the hassle of shipping and import taxes.
The Neox is way better in my opinion. In fact the grigri is better too.
@@daanschone1548 I mean, I am not talking from experience, I am only talking from an engineering perspective. The likelihood of the Pinch being better than the rest is much much higher than the rest
@@hashimnameer1308 I'm talking from experience. The Pinch doesn't belay any better than a grigri 2. And it doesn't fit on thick belay loops. The Neox though belays super smooth.
So lovely how he used "long time climber" instead of "professional".
Legend would also fit 😏
He is so humble!
Can the Pinch be used to rappel on a single strand of rope as can be done with a Grigri?
Yes, you can use the exact same technique as you would with a Grigri to rap on a single strand.
Funny how one of the worse feature of grigri+ so called anti panic mode is copied.
At least they realize that iris annoying enough to tell you how to deactivate it.
It is quite nice being able to block it out completely.
Speaking as somebody who’s used a grigri+ for two years: the anti panic lock is fine. It’s confusing for 30 seconds the first time you pick it up and then never really bothers you again.
It's copied from another petzl device called the ID. Not really a copy when the company manufacturing the product popularized the design
@@think-some-time I completely disagree. Talking from someone who used it for a couple year before I ditched it. Almost every other time I lower someone it comes into play which only means I lower them normally by forcing the handle a bit more but it is annoying and is happening all the time for a very doubtful benefit.
hmm, still waiting for an Independent review
If you have any specific questions, let us know. We have had a pre-production sample for quite some time now and can provide feedback on anything you’re curious about.
As a store that sells many different belay devices, our bias is minimal, and we are realistic with the idea that no single item is perfect for everything. Once the Pinch is available for purchase, we will most likely produce an independent opinion video on it, similar to what we did for the Neox.
@@climbonequipment and is there any word on when it will be out? Thanks
We do not have a firm delivery date yet although the unofficial word is sometime in August.
“For me who is not a total beginner” lol. Yeah dude. You’ve probably climbed more vertical feet than most people will walk horizontal feet haha
You are probably right!
I love how climbers say "beaner" this is what I call my mexican friends.
Interesting, I’ve never heard it used that way although that might be due to us being up in Canada.
@@climbonequipment yeah most likely that is the reason. Here in the states specifically California “beaner” is the derogatory term for Mexicans… but most likely anyone south of the boarder.
The amount of ignorance in this comments section is baffling. TH-cam IS NOT TRAINING FOLKS