I've been watching this old house since I was six years old. I know this show is the reason I can pretty much fix any issue I have in my house. Currently, I am fixing a crack in my foundation and afterward, I am going to lay LVP in the entire house. At the same time, I will be installing new toilets in our bathrooms. This is all thanks to This Old House.
I am a structural engineer and this is an excellent video of crack injection. However one of the most important things when fixing concrete cracks is to determine if the cause of the crack is still active. Generally cracks can be classified as active (cause(s) still present) or inactive (cause is no longer present). The video mentions fixing outside drainage which can be the cause but it is hard to know for certain without monitoring the crack for some period of time. Of course crack monitoring over time is not always possible in every situation. In this particular video it looks like an exterior stud wall is sitting on the foundation and there is no floor at the foundation level. Typically in residential construction there is a floor at the top of the foundation which serves to support the top of the wall. If you happen to have a similar situation then in my opinion you have more of a retaining wall than a basement wall and the cause of a crack and repairs may be different.
@@ryanschaffer88 there are lots of different products available so I suggest trying to find one where the manufacturer allows chisel method as an approved process.
Indeed the foundation is functioning as a retaining wall, without a footing. I’m surprised I’d didn’t fail more catastrophically. My company pours 500 foundations a year. 90% of the plans we see on look out and walk out foundations, don’t treat the foundation as a retaining wall. We are in Northern Illinois with heavy soils and severe winters, I’m surprised we don’t see more failures.
As a professional basement waterproofing contractor for over 20 years there are some misconceptions in this video. The high PSI of the epoxy isn't a good thing like noted in the video. Where we are located (Central Massachusetts) we have a pretty horrendous freeze thaw cycle and a seismic load. Meaning the foundation moves, the footing moves, and the ground below the foundation moves. All at slightly different rates. Epoxy dries harder than concrete, so it ends up cracking when the two sides of the foundation move. This is why most injections come with a 5-10 year warranty. There is also the polyurethane approach if you have active water coming into the foundation, those systems usually last between 7-10 years. If at all possible you want to seal it from the outside, with a patch that remains pliable and moves with the foundation. We dig the cracks up by hand directly down to the footing and seal them in a day with a lifetime warranty. The only time we inject is when there is something on the outside (precast steps, deck, stamped concrete). Sika is a great company and they make really good sealants but its asking a lot of epoxy to seal a foundation correctly. When we dig up foundations that have been injected they always have bug holes and pools of material on the outside, so its just a matter of time before they leak again.
I've had to do this several times on my house as well, over 100 years old, no footing. In my case it isn't drainage related. I have a couple of techniques I developed. At or below grade, I excavate and face drill into the block on either side of the crack for rebar pins. They are left protruding, and then I use stainless wire to stitch the crack and preload the rebar pins. I make a form and fill it with high strength grout to a fluid consistency. This encases everything, including the rebar stickout and the block core. For above grade, I use stainless stitch ties in the grout lines with epoxy. Again, it is sealed, and then I core fill the block the rest of the way. Some backfill, and some stucco, and you don't know it's there. Plus, unlike epoxy which can bond to dirt and dust, this is a mechanical repair. Very expensive and very time consuming, but that's my habit of overdoing things. My goal was use to use products locally available. For cracks at a corner, you can pin the rebar in from the side, all the way to do the top, which makes a really nice fix.
I just did this a two weeks ago. As a home owner it was easy enough for a weekend warrior to do. Cleanup wasn't bad and the fix is amazing. Best foundation repair that can be had for $100 - $150. Only wish TOH had covered it sooner as finding out about it wasn't so easy.
@@lionheart93 The product I used was Simpson Strong Tie 9oz CRACK-PAC FLEX H2O KIT W/ACCESORIES (CPFH09KT) www.amazon.com/dp/B00QKZEWW6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_W4LdEb3RATPNZ Since the crack was vertical and not horizontal it wasn't structural. Due to that I went with this flex foam kit as it would do the job and be able to expand and contract as need be. If it was structural the full epoxy would be a better choice. That said I've had it in for only two weeks but we no longer have water seepage and the kit did push all the way through. If you are thinking of doing this just know that the foam is designed to expand in order to fill the crack. My crack was from a below ground window corner down to our basement floor (about five feet). The foam did push all the way up into the window casement and out the top almost two and a half feet beyond my last injection point. Cleanup isn't bad however, so a little scraping and grinding and it looks great!
David, I'm having the same issue in our basement. Rain is coming through a vertical crack. Did you do anything to your outside wall...like dig down to water proof? Or is the epoxy strong enough just placing on the inside wall of the basement?
SusieQ Gallagher If you dig from outside and use the epoxy injection kit and then attach a water proof membrane to the concrete (from the footing up all the way to the vertical crack) it would be the best solution HOWEVER it is very costly and you will need a permit to dig. Most people just try to attack the crack from the inside because the ease of access and low cost. I will be attempting the fix our crack from the outside in the summer as we have a very small leak even after fixing the inside wall with the epoxy injection kit
I really liked this,, I have several cracks in a solid porded foundation wall as weel as a leak around mu main Copper water supply line. The only leaks that is troublesome in the house is the leak around water supply. Had a plumbing try and fix it from the outside and they said it would never leak but it did anyway. Had a foundation leak company come take a look and they wanted tear up our entire basement around the foundation wall on the inside of the house and just deal with the water as it came in and not prevent it from coming in the first place. We finally just added our knew roof, we have new properly sized gutters coming next, they are 6", we have 4" now, and we will be able to keep the water from running down the face of the fondation and the gutters from getting clogged. This will be a perfect solution to seal up the cracks on the inside of the house for the water line and the garage. Thank you for showing this
It's a cool video. But as a homeowner I would like to know if water was coming in through it and if this stopped it from further happening. Also, I would like to know what type of contractor to call to fix this. Also like to know if it's possible for me to do this myself? If so, what do I buy and more details would help. There are still some of us who would like to do it ourselves...if we are shown how to do it. Thanks guys!
The inside dam is only a temporary solution. Go outside, dig to the footing, grind out the cracks on an angle to make an inside V, not an outside V, meaning the crack is the small part and the inside of the wall is the big part. Pressure wash everything, sump the water out of the hole, and let it dry. Liberally apply hydraulic cement making sure to get it deep into the crevice. Slop non-drying roof tar top to bottom, left to right, going about a foot past the crack at each end. Apply a layer or ashphalt based roll roofing to the entire patch. Repeat the roof tar and roofing material one more time. Protect the area from impact when refilling the hole with 1/2" thick styrofoam insulation. Backfill the soil into the hole, tamping it down every 12" or so. The leak is permanently fixed at that point, even if the foundation shifts another 3/8" over next 100 years. Fixing leaks from the inside only works until things shift a tiny bit. It doesn't matter that it's denser than concrete. Once it loses grab on the crack you're screwed once again. Digging sucks but it makes the fix permanent.
Non-drying roof tar? I didnt see that on google or home depot.. do you mean "Wet Patch" or "Wet-R-Dri" "All-Season" Tar? Also how wide do you grind out the crack for the smaller and larger portions of the "V"? Do you put tar on the styrofoam insulation board to stick it to the patch?
What is the product used to fix these cracks? Would have been nice if they would have included the product name for thos eof us interested in using it.
Before my Father sold his 20 year old home, he had about a 6' crack in the poured concrete wall that leaked water when it rained. We found a local company that chipped away at the crack and filled it with epoxy (looked like expanding foam) for only $250. The strange thing was, they drilled into the crack diagonally, and placed maybe 8 or 9 of these metal fittings in to the wall that looked identical to grease fittings, as in, they were one way check valves. Then they covered the crack with some other type of sealant or epoxy that was somewhat of a tan or beige color. The repair also came with a 10 year transferable warranty. Not bad for only $250, and certainly solid peace of mind for the new buyers!
Good work, I know epoxy what you mentioned to cover the crack but what is the name of injected material you injected in crack which hose 9000 psi? Thank you
I thought this was gonna be a job my husband and I could do, lol. Basically, call a professional. I love This Old House. I've learned so many things from you all. You are appreciated.
I did the exact same thing to a house I had. When I did it , the epoxy pushed all the way to the outside wall. Still worked liked a charm. It never dripped another drop
The crack looks a little wider at the top than the bottom, which leads me to think that the foundation has settled on the left or the right or both. They also said it doesn't have a footing.
Sure? 0:03 I don't see it.. Looks pretty even. Extremely unlikely there is any up down movement there. This wall moved in, not dropped. The crack would have been wider at the bottom if either side of the wall dropped below the other.
My basement has a crack that looks just like what you described, wider at the top, about 1/4" and hairline toward the bottom. The house is 3 years old now and I was thinking about doing a DIY epoxy carbon treatment.. do you suggest something else August?
What if the crack goes , visibly all the way through? Do you port and put the first calk on the outside as well, or just the first calk or something else?
I would not do this I've worked in construction for 15 years and none of these easy fast tricks work. The water pushes from the outside pushing out anything put in from the inside. Best way to fix foundation cracks is to apply foundation sealant from the outside. Dig out to the slab of the foundation and roll the black foundation sealant 3" over the level of dirt. Then apply the a waterproof membrane made of plastic over the wall and add a French drain to the bottom leading away from the house. Then just fill in the hole. Expensive but life proof you will never have to deal with it again and will increase the value of the house.
@@warrenwallace2 - of course you're right that the water pushing from outside must be fixed before doing anything, however at 0:25 they say water caused the problem and they fixed that. I guess you're saying filling the crack with epoxy that is 9 times stronger than concrete adds no real value if the outside water problem is fixed, presumably because the crack won't grow since there is little or no force anymore. So would you just fill the crack with concrete for cosmetic reasons only, not for strength, or even leave it cracked since nobody will go under the house anyway?
For anyone who’s interested I’ve replaced many dozens of these epoxy repairs that often lasted only a few months. Epoxy repairs are completely inflexible so they frequently fail as soon as the weather changes. I did hundreds of flexible foundation crack repairs and replacements over a period of about 2 years using a urethane system without a single failure.
@@mredldean1: The product is SicaFlex 1A primarily designed as a flexible waterproof sealant for concrete joints, curtain wall construction panels and around doors/windows in ICI construction. You can buy it in standard caulking tubes or large ‘sausages’ which require a special gun. If you’re doing a single crack at home the standard tubes are fine, otherwise you’ll need the sausages and special applicator gun. IT’S NOT A URETHANE INJECTION SYSTEM so you don’t have to worry about blowing out the foundation. It’s simply applied into the chiseled-out crack and feathered out several inches either side. Somewhat messy to work with but 100% impermeable after cure. Let me know if you need more info.
Great video! My foundation is made of cinder blocks. So if I have a crack in my foundation and inject it with epoxy, should I worry about all of the epoxy going into the large hollow spaces of the cinder blocks?
Looks good, BUt Im concerned with the product coming out the back side or outside wall. Wouldn't the epoxy just push through to the outside ? Or would the dirt hold it ? I dont want to dig up my driveway and patio. Thanks for any help
How can I do this without a kit????? I see that these polyurethane foam injection repair kits are expensive! I also see that I can buy packages of the injection ports separate online. Does anyone know if I can just use the ports, some spray cans of foam, and some hydraulic cement instead of the epoxy paste to do this a lot more cheaply? My concern is that spray foam will not have the necessary injection pressure to fill small cracks that a caulk tube of foam would have when injected with a caulk gun would have. And I can't find anywhere to buy polyurethane foam in a caulk tube separately. Please help!
Would be interesting to see them epoxy 2 big concrete blocks together and then pick it up with an excavator on one side, and smack it around a bit. Then the strength will be truly visible.
Let me uninteresting it for you. The concrete will break, the epoxy will hold itself fine. The question is application. Bad adhesion between epoxy and concrete could be a problem if someone applies without properly preparing the concrete.
I would like to know the name of the inserts being used, the name and brand of the product being use as well as the name of the tube/hose being used to inject the product. Also, is it just a regular caulking gun being used? Thanks
No, but is should be called SEALING the crack. The FIX is repairing the cause of the crack on the outside of the foundation. Regardless of the PSI rating of the epoxy, if you dont fix the underlying cause the epoxy will crack just like the concrete. What is CAUSING your horizontal crack ?
Silly question, but is this something someone with little to no experience could do by themselves? I've got a couple small cracks in my garage (where one has started to leak through).
💥 I’ve learned all throughout life… When you plug a leak in a dam you do it from the side where the water is pushing from. In this case you would plug it from the outside. This way will just cause the foundation to fill up and hold the water in it.
I have a foundation Crack in a basement wall that is fairly large at the top. We had a structural engineer already pass the wall for repair but I'm wondering how a very large Crack repair would be completed.
My basement has a crack running horizontally at about a 15° angle from one side pretty much all the way to another. Home constructed in 1950 with terra cotta footer drains running around the perimeter outside. All those clay pipes are cracked due to root invasion, not to mention freezing and thawing each year. I know I’ll have to repair/replace the drainage in addition to the crack injection, but my question is what is the success rate of the crack injection on horizontal cracks vs vertical?
i have a gunite hot tub that has cracked about 10 inches below the top of the circular pour. the crack is just at the height of the spillway completely around the tub all the way through to the outer side wall. i have searched and searched and am unable to find any type of repair on the internet. i was wondering if this system would work to repair and seal the leaking crack right on the waterline. the crack leaks roughly 50 gallons a day and is behind the tile. i was thinking to use this system, cover with the paintable water proofing material, then retile and grout, then texture and repaint the outer wall.
I've been watching this old house since I was six years old. I know this show is the reason I can pretty much fix any issue I have in my house. Currently, I am fixing a crack in my foundation and afterward, I am going to lay LVP in the entire house. At the same time, I will be installing new toilets in our bathrooms. This is all thanks to This Old House.
I Hope you see my message..I have to Fix Cracks in my Foundation..Would you let me know what you used to Seal up the Cracks ?? Thank You..
Me too …. Love it !❤❤
@@TheDogGoesWoof69😂
Can you be so kind to tell me what type of material they use and where can I find this???
Omg me too! Why was I watching this so young?! And old Bob Vila too. 😂
I am a structural engineer and this is an excellent video of crack injection. However one of the most important things when fixing concrete cracks is to determine if the cause of the crack is still active. Generally cracks can be classified as active (cause(s) still present) or inactive (cause is no longer present). The video mentions fixing outside drainage which can be the cause but it is hard to know for certain without monitoring the crack for some period of time. Of course crack monitoring over time is not always possible in every situation.
In this particular video it looks like an exterior stud wall is sitting on the foundation and there is no floor at the foundation level. Typically in residential construction there is a floor at the top of the foundation which serves to support the top of the wall. If you happen to have a similar situation then in my opinion you have more of a retaining wall than a basement wall and the cause of a crack and repairs may be different.
Is this something you can use a cold chisel in place of the saw? I'm trying to do it myself and save money. I also probably wouldn't use the saw much.
@@ryanschaffer88 there are lots of different products available so I suggest trying to find one where the manufacturer allows chisel method as an approved process.
Larry Deem Thank you. What material would you recommend for the “dam” to hold the epoxy in?
I am not sure but usually technical support group at the manufacturers are very helpful with this type of question.
Indeed the foundation is functioning as a retaining wall, without a footing. I’m surprised I’d didn’t fail more catastrophically. My company pours 500 foundations a year. 90% of the plans we see on look out and walk out foundations, don’t treat the foundation as a retaining wall. We are in Northern Illinois with heavy soils and severe winters, I’m surprised we don’t see more failures.
I had to read the SKU number off the box in the video, the product is Sikadur Crack Weld Injection Kit.
you are the man ✊🏾
@@edogedogedo it has bad reviews on home depot...
SikaDURRRRRRRRRR 😂
As a professional basement waterproofing contractor for over 20 years there are some misconceptions in this video. The high PSI of the epoxy isn't a good thing like noted in the video. Where we are located (Central Massachusetts) we have a pretty horrendous freeze thaw cycle and a seismic load. Meaning the foundation moves, the footing moves, and the ground below the foundation moves. All at slightly different rates. Epoxy dries harder than concrete, so it ends up cracking when the two sides of the foundation move. This is why most injections come with a 5-10 year warranty. There is also the polyurethane approach if you have active water coming into the foundation, those systems usually last between 7-10 years. If at all possible you want to seal it from the outside, with a patch that remains pliable and moves with the foundation. We dig the cracks up by hand directly down to the footing and seal them in a day with a lifetime warranty. The only time we inject is when there is something on the outside (precast steps, deck, stamped concrete). Sika is a great company and they make really good sealants but its asking a lot of epoxy to seal a foundation correctly. When we dig up foundations that have been injected they always have bug holes and pools of material on the outside, so its just a matter of time before they leak again.
Will a can of Flex Seal waterproof effectively? They’re $100 per gallon.
@@HarnessAHealthyLife I’ve used flex seal to waterproof a crack. It’s temporary. Not treating the cause of the crack, just the symptoms
What do you use from Sika when you provide the lifetime warranty? That's a pretty ballsy move using urethane.
Thanks Robert this is very helpful.
What do you use to seal when you dig the foundation and seal from the outside ?
That's what I'm hoping to do
I've had to do this several times on my house as well, over 100 years old, no footing. In my case it isn't drainage related. I have a couple of techniques I developed. At or below grade, I excavate and face drill into the block on either side of the crack for rebar pins. They are left protruding, and then I use stainless wire to stitch the crack and preload the rebar pins. I make a form and fill it with high strength grout to a fluid consistency. This encases everything, including the rebar stickout and the block core. For above grade, I use stainless stitch ties in the grout lines with epoxy. Again, it is sealed, and then I core fill the block the rest of the way. Some backfill, and some stucco, and you don't know it's there. Plus, unlike epoxy which can bond to dirt and dust, this is a mechanical repair. Very expensive and very time consuming, but that's my habit of overdoing things. My goal was use to use products locally available.
For cracks at a corner, you can pin the rebar in from the side, all the way to do the top, which makes a really nice fix.
I am commenting because this repair makes sense to me and I want to be able to reference this later.
I just did this a two weeks ago. As a home owner it was easy enough for a weekend warrior to do. Cleanup wasn't bad and the fix is amazing. Best foundation repair that can be had for $100 - $150. Only wish TOH had covered it sooner as finding out about it wasn't so easy.
David Hettinger what material did you use?
@@lionheart93 The product I used was Simpson Strong Tie 9oz CRACK-PAC FLEX H2O KIT W/ACCESORIES (CPFH09KT) www.amazon.com/dp/B00QKZEWW6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_W4LdEb3RATPNZ
Since the crack was vertical and not horizontal it wasn't structural. Due to that I went with this flex foam kit as it would do the job and be able to expand and contract as need be. If it was structural the full epoxy would be a better choice.
That said I've had it in for only two weeks but we no longer have water seepage and the kit did push all the way through. If you are thinking of doing this just know that the foam is designed to expand in order to fill the crack. My crack was from a below ground window corner down to our basement floor (about five feet). The foam did push all the way up into the window casement and out the top almost two and a half feet beyond my last injection point. Cleanup isn't bad however, so a little scraping and grinding and it looks great!
David, I'm having the same issue in our basement. Rain is coming through a vertical crack. Did you do anything to your outside wall...like dig down to water proof? Or is the epoxy strong enough just placing on the inside wall of the basement?
SusieQ Gallagher If you dig from outside and use the epoxy injection kit and then attach a water proof membrane to the concrete (from the footing up all the way to the vertical crack) it would be the best solution HOWEVER it is very costly and you will need a permit to dig. Most people just try to attack the crack from the inside because the ease of access and low cost. I will be attempting the fix our crack from the outside in the summer as we have a very small leak even after fixing the inside wall with the epoxy injection kit
@@ayoubfarid1663 Thank you for your reply. I'm so tired of heavy rains and the basement filling up with water. I will try this!
i need to buy this epoxy kit. Where do i get one ?
I really liked this,, I have several cracks in a solid porded foundation wall as weel as a leak around mu main Copper water supply line. The only leaks that is troublesome in the house is the leak around water supply. Had a plumbing try and fix it from the outside and they said it would never leak but it did anyway. Had a foundation leak company come take a look and they wanted tear up our entire basement around the foundation wall on the inside of the house and just deal with the water as it came in and not prevent it from coming in the first place. We finally just added our knew roof, we have new properly sized gutters coming next, they are 6", we have 4" now, and we will be able to keep the water from running down the face of the fondation and the gutters from getting clogged. This will be a perfect solution to seal up the cracks on the inside of the house for the water line and the garage. Thank you for showing this
I’m always entertained watching these guys. Great videos....the best !
Does anyone else find this therapeutic as well as informative?
Live these guys. Along with Bob and Norm, I feel like they helped raise me.
I didn't know this incredibly effective fix was available. Great demonstration.
Man i love this show!!!
I never knew i love doing these works until I saw this. this is my hobby now.
That was an excellent demonstration.
Thank you!
So wholesome
i luv houses
Nice to see a foundation repaired the right way! Looks great and should last too
It's a cool video. But as a homeowner I would like to know if water was coming in through it and if this stopped it from further happening. Also, I would like to know what type of contractor to call to fix this. Also like to know if it's possible for me to do this myself? If so, what do I buy and more details would help. There are still some of us who would like to do it ourselves...if we are shown how to do it. Thanks guys!
Typical of this show to not give u all the info u really need
Can someone list these exact products?
The inside dam is only a temporary solution. Go outside, dig to the footing, grind out the cracks on an angle to make an inside V, not an outside V, meaning the crack is the small part and the inside of the wall is the big part. Pressure wash everything, sump the water out of the hole, and let it dry. Liberally apply hydraulic cement making sure to get it deep into the crevice. Slop non-drying roof tar top to bottom, left to right, going about a foot past the crack at each end. Apply a layer or ashphalt based roll roofing to the entire patch. Repeat the roof tar and roofing material one more time. Protect the area from impact when refilling the hole with 1/2" thick styrofoam insulation. Backfill the soil into the hole, tamping it down every 12" or so. The leak is permanently fixed at that point, even if the foundation shifts another 3/8" over next 100 years. Fixing leaks from the inside only works until things shift a tiny bit. It doesn't matter that it's denser than concrete. Once it loses grab on the crack you're screwed once again. Digging sucks but it makes the fix permanent.
How are you grinding an inside V?
Non-drying roof tar? I didnt see that on google or home depot.. do you mean "Wet Patch" or "Wet-R-Dri" "All-Season" Tar? Also how wide do you grind out the crack for the smaller and larger portions of the "V"? Do you put tar on the styrofoam insulation board to stick it to the patch?
Thanks for the great tips...
Excellent
Very informative!
Guarantee Hugo only has to ask for payment once when the job’s done.
They have an envelope of cash ready before he even starts.
Why’s that? Are you implying he’s intimidating? He might be a big boy but the human body is susceptible in many places regardless of size.
@@lh98 it's a joke, right
Thx for sharing, what's the name of the products?
THE GUY IN GREY LOOKS LIKE YOU COULD TEAR DOWN THE WALL WITH ONE HAND......LOL
What is the product used to fix these cracks? Would have been nice if they would have included the product name for thos eof us interested in using it.
Great video however would be nice if you could provide all brands/items you used ie the epoxy
Before my Father sold his 20 year old home, he had about a 6' crack in the poured concrete wall that leaked water when it rained. We found a local company that chipped away at the crack and filled it with epoxy (looked like expanding foam) for only $250. The strange thing was, they drilled into the crack diagonally, and placed maybe 8 or 9 of these metal fittings in to the wall that looked identical to grease fittings, as in, they were one way check valves. Then they covered the crack with some other type of sealant or epoxy that was somewhat of a tan or beige color.
The repair also came with a 10 year transferable warranty. Not bad for only $250, and certainly solid peace of mind for the new buyers!
Blaine Bugaski, $250? That’s a dam good deal. 👍
@@kalijasin Yes it was. If you were local to Northwest Indiana I would refer you to this company!
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists are they near Merrillville?
@@bryanthomas544 They would most certainly work in Merrillville I am certain.
@Dirty Burger So what does that come out to in our American Dollars, $22,069? :D
Thanks for the video. Is the epoxy the older technology compared to FlexiSpan and polyurethane
That red and yellow sure does look like Sika.
Good work, I know epoxy what you mentioned to cover the crack but what is the name of injected material you injected in crack which hose 9000 psi?
Thank you
Wow that stuff is strong
What's the Sika cartridge material you use to seal the front face of the crack please (troweled on the front face)?
Wow I learned so much thanks
Great job 👍
I love you @Leif
I thought this was gonna be a job my husband and I could do, lol. Basically, call a professional. I love This Old House. I've learned so many things from you all. You are appreciated.
I did the exact same thing to a house I had. When I did it , the epoxy pushed all the way to the outside wall. Still worked liked a charm. It never dripped another drop
What product did you use?
Products you used?
What these two gentlemen just said ^
He didn't do jack sh..
The crack looks a little wider at the top than the bottom, which leads me to think that the foundation has settled on the left or the right or both. They also said it doesn't have a footing.
Sure? 0:03 I don't see it.. Looks pretty even. Extremely unlikely there is any up down movement there. This wall moved in, not dropped. The crack would have been wider at the bottom if either side of the wall dropped below the other.
My basement has a crack that looks just like what you described, wider at the top, about 1/4" and hairline toward the bottom. The house is 3 years old now and I was thinking about doing a DIY epoxy carbon treatment.. do you suggest something else August?
We used a system that drilled holes off to the side, similar to horizontal drilling in the oil industry. They used pressure to inject there product.
What if the crack goes , visibly all the way through? Do you port and put the first calk on the outside as well, or just the first calk or something else?
Could someone list the materials used? I'm buying a house and it has foundation cracks and to keep costs low I think its something I could take on
I would not do this I've worked in construction for 15 years and none of these easy fast tricks work. The water pushes from the outside pushing out anything put in from the inside. Best way to fix foundation cracks is to apply foundation sealant from the outside. Dig out to the slab of the foundation and roll the black foundation sealant 3" over the level of dirt. Then apply the a waterproof membrane made of plastic over the wall and add a French drain to the bottom leading away from the house. Then just fill in the hole. Expensive but life proof you will never have to deal with it again and will increase the value of the house.
@@warrenwallace2 - of course you're right that the water pushing from outside must be fixed before doing anything, however at 0:25 they say water caused the problem and they fixed that. I guess you're saying filling the crack with epoxy that is 9 times stronger than concrete adds no real value if the outside water problem is fixed, presumably because the crack won't grow since there is little or no force anymore. So would you just fill the crack with concrete for cosmetic reasons only, not for strength, or even leave it cracked since nobody will go under the house anyway?
So has anyone listed the materials that were used
For anyone who’s interested I’ve replaced many dozens of these epoxy repairs that often lasted only a few months. Epoxy repairs are completely inflexible so they frequently fail as soon as the weather changes. I did hundreds of flexible foundation crack repairs and replacements over a period of about 2 years using a urethane system without a single failure.
Interesting. Can you please explain how the urethane system works?
@@mredldean1: The product is SicaFlex 1A primarily designed as a flexible waterproof sealant for concrete joints, curtain wall construction panels and around doors/windows in ICI construction. You can buy it in standard caulking tubes or large ‘sausages’ which require a special gun. If you’re doing a single crack at home the standard tubes are fine, otherwise you’ll need the sausages and special applicator gun. IT’S NOT A URETHANE INJECTION SYSTEM so you don’t have to worry about blowing out the foundation. It’s simply applied into the chiseled-out crack and feathered out several inches either side. Somewhat messy to work with but 100% impermeable after cure. Let me know if you need more info.
Great video! My foundation is made of cinder blocks. So if I have a crack in my foundation and inject it with epoxy, should I worry about all of the epoxy going into the large hollow spaces of the cinder blocks?
Not an expert but ya it would go into the giant voids unless it was filled with concrete
Could you put a link to the products used? I sure need a fix like that. Thanks
Probably won’t post a list. It cost like $200 for the products but they most likely charge about $3,000.
The color of the containers look like Sika brand of products.
I used this one and it worked out just fine.
www.amazon.com/dp/B00QKZEWW6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_W4LdEb3RATPNZ%C2%A0
$30 at Home Depot. I have not used the kit, but Dri-Core is a good company.
Where can this product be purchased? Tnx
Sweet Hilti grinder.
Where do we buy this product at?
How much does this cost generally for that size wall crack.
Is there a supplylist somewhere? what the things are called the using? What kind of epoxy And what are those little discs called?
Troy Mclure had an excellent video on this same topic.
Sounds good, will look into this.
America is a great country....let's stay together folks and don't let anything divide us
Was there a video on the drainage?
anyone know where one can buy this?
What is the name of the epoxy being used if anyone knows by chance, or is there one just az good. Thanks
This stuff works well. I used it and it stopped the water coming into the house. Been about 2 years now and still holding
@Chuck Finley no just the inside
Do you have the name of the product and where we can purchase?
@@Davis5fam no I purchased mine on amazon
Can I have the product names? Thanks!
What it this stuff called and how do I find it ?
Would you let me know what you used to seal the cracks my foundation is terrible. Thanks
Looks good, BUt Im concerned with the product coming out the back side or outside wall. Wouldn't the epoxy just push through to the outside ? Or would the dirt hold it ? I dont want to dig up my driveway and patio. Thanks for any help
They did this video 5 years ago. Hugo outdid tommy!!!!
If the crack goes all the way through to the exterior should we do the same process outside?
Where can I buy that at
What’s the name of the product you used on the wall?
Kevin is allowed to turn the heater on!
DUH
I can’t find that Sika product anywhere
Yeah, seems that supply still seems to be a problem. What's a good alternative, for anyone who may know?
How can I do this without a kit????? I see that these polyurethane foam injection repair kits are expensive! I also see that I can buy packages of the injection ports separate online. Does anyone know if I can just use the ports, some spray cans of foam, and some hydraulic cement instead of the epoxy paste to do this a lot more cheaply? My concern is that spray foam will not have the necessary injection pressure to fill small cracks that a caulk tube of foam would have when injected with a caulk gun would have. And I can't find anywhere to buy polyurethane foam in a caulk tube separately. Please help!
At what point do I parge the lathe?
Make sure you have your aluminum J-channel first
Is there do it yourself type stuff for smaller cracks?
Would be interesting to see them epoxy 2 big concrete blocks together and then pick it up with an excavator on one side, and smack it around a bit. Then the strength will be truly visible.
b8e71fcbe2e195c67d8d16734013d20f how about they epoxy someone’s butt cheeks together.
Search for "publicidad poxipol argentina"..😉
Rediscover Film Not mine please 😬
I’m getting a human Centipede vibe from this comment section.
Let me uninteresting it for you. The concrete will break, the epoxy will hold itself fine. The question is application. Bad adhesion between epoxy and concrete could be a problem if someone applies without properly preparing the concrete.
Where can i find this repair kit?
Good Stuff
Interesting, I noticed they didn't mention the cost and other types of methods that could be used.
Hi I have a cracked foundation can you please tell me what is the name of the epoxy that was used on this show
I would like to know the name of the inserts being used, the name and brand of the product being use as well as the name of the tube/hose being used to inject the product. Also, is it just a regular caulking gun being used? Thanks
Cool!
Is there another video from "This Old House" that shows how to fix a Concrete Foundation "Horizontal" Crack (which is more serious)? Thanks!
No, but is should be called SEALING the crack. The FIX is repairing the cause of the crack on the outside of the foundation. Regardless of the PSI rating of the epoxy, if you dont fix the underlying cause the epoxy will crack just like the concrete.
What is CAUSING your horizontal crack ?
Does this work for stair step cracks in cylinder block walls?
Union bricklayers on the job 👌🏻
What's the name brand of that epoxy???
Silly question, but is this something someone with little to no experience could do by themselves? I've got a couple small cracks in my garage (where one has started to leak through).
Yes but probably not as efficiently. You’d probably do this or use hydro cement
How do we know what materials he is using?
May i ask what kind of epoxy did you use?. Is there a specific one for concrete? Some special features? Or just any epoxy would do. Thanks.
Interesting
Do you need to do anything differently for the exterior hairline crack?
💥 I’ve learned all throughout life… When you plug a leak in a dam you do it from the side where the water is pushing from. In this case you would plug it from the outside. This way will just cause the foundation to fill up and hold the water in it.
Pretty sure they said theyd go out and do the same thing outside. Or at least i believe thats what youre supposed to do
It's strong, but will it hold it in place?
What product did you use.
Is this available for diy?
after the repair. what needs to be done next? does the house need to be lifted? new floor joists?
I have a foundation Crack in a basement wall that is fairly large at the top. We had a structural engineer already pass the wall for repair but I'm wondering how a very large Crack repair would be completed.
What is this product called?
thats cool'
What would you recommend to fix a vertical crack on a concrete column that’s holding up a basketball net?
So does anyone know what the name of the product manufacturer is and where to purchase it and the rest of the equipment?
th-cam.com/video/QUhTiCG0hfA/w-d-xo.html
My basement has a crack running horizontally at about a 15° angle from one side pretty much all the way to another. Home constructed in 1950 with terra cotta footer drains running around the perimeter outside. All those clay pipes are cracked due to root invasion, not to mention freezing and thawing each year. I know I’ll have to repair/replace the drainage in addition to the crack injection, but my question is what is the success rate of the crack injection on horizontal cracks vs vertical?
You're definitely better off digging out the outside and sealing it there. This is good, but outside is best.
Product? Brand???
i have a gunite hot tub that has cracked about 10 inches below the top of the circular pour. the crack is just at the height of the spillway completely around the tub all the way through to the outer side wall. i have searched and searched and am unable to find any type of repair on the internet. i was wondering if this system would work to repair and seal the leaking crack right on the waterline. the crack leaks roughly 50 gallons a day and is behind the tile. i was thinking to use this system, cover with the paintable water proofing material, then retile and grout, then texture and repaint the outer wall.