Note for people of the future: some modern crack repair kits come with epoxy instead of concrete/mortar now. Epoxy prices have fallen, and epoxy works a million times better than anything else -- epoxy is harder than concrete, sticks better, mixes automatically, hardens faster, is more waterproof, and is easier to use. Fixing your own cracks is easy if you go for it! Thank you for the video!
Epoxy is only better long term if you’re in a place with steadier climates, epoxy is harder which means if temperature fluctuates a lot like in Canada, the foundation will move causing a harder material to crack faster, would highly recommend concrete if such a climate is lived in 👍🏼
I used this and had the same problem with quick setting of the mortar. Once I was finished, I wasn't sure how well it worked. I got the foam progressively squirting out the injection nozzle above but I wasn't certain how well it worked. In the spring Once the snow melted outside I was weed whacking outside along the foundation and noticed the foam had forced its way all the way to the outside and was visible on the above ground portion of the foundation. Performed way better than I expected...
I've used this on a basement crack in my Mom's foundation and it worked great. Still not leaking 5 years later. Saved her a tonne of money, digging up the yard and fixing the leak from the outside. She was more than happy with the $60 odd bucks this costed, compared to the fortune it would have cost to fix it the other way.
I am in the same boat, it's a 60 year old house and it's no worth it digging up the yard along the sides of the house, tearing up the concrete. I will try this and see how it goes. I am just waiting for the damn water to stop pouring in :)
@@saxytb Yeah, as long as it's not "pouring in" as you say and just damp, then damp is a good thing with this stuff, as it follows the water into the crack. This stuff actually comes in a dual chamber tube when I used it, with water and polyurethane and when it comes out the tip, they mix. It's a decent option and for under a $100 it can be a decent fix and was actually better than I thought. I was kinda shocked it worked. Her's was a trickle mind you and only in heavy rains, but the crack was letting in enough water that it made the basement floor wet. Beats spending hundreds more or thousands digging up the yard etc. right? Good luck, I hope it works for you.
@First Last Far as I know, it held up fine. My mother sold the house a few years ago and that was about 6 years after I did it. I also tried to remedy (simply) any future issues though from outside, which likely helped, by finding the source outside. An outside leaky faucet that the previous owner before my mother, had not addressed (but she did upon moving in, the damage was already done by then however). Just not leaking from the wall during storms until she'd been there for about a decade. So, there was a channel of nothing, right about where the crack started from on the inside wall, down next to the foundation, a literal void. Fills with water during heavy storms and voila, leak. I redid her rotten deck before she sold it, which exposed this tap and hole below it, as I was building a smaller deck anyway, without the added "L" section over the tap and basement window. So I thought "I should fill that", as any logical person would do. Took some dirt and gravel and shoved it into the hole and took the extra cement from the one cement piling/support I had to replace for the deck to mount on and poured it on top of the now filled hole. And then laid two patio stones/pavers over that, under the tap and sloped them toward the lawn. So that any water from the tap or rain, (which was when the leak was most noticeable, during heavy rain), would flow away from the house and previous hole to the lawn instead. Anyway, I digress, back to the subject, yeah this polyurethane injection is designed for precisely those kind of jobs, hairline cracks etc. and can handle even a few mm wide ones. The kind of jobs you don't want to dig up the yard or foundation to fix, from the outside and can be fixed from the inside. It's a method a lot of professional basement sealer guys do too. But you can DIY the same thing yourself. $75 (maybe cheaper where you live, I'm in Canada everything is expensive here, vs. the U.S.), it's worth a shot. It's meant to fix minor leaks and problems/cracks. Her's was a bit more than hairline, at some points anyway and it was invading at the grout lines of the cinder blocks it was built with and you could see the "steps" it was creating. Like a set of stairs, down the wall. lol. So that gives you a rough idea of it's capabilities. The crack ranged from 1-3mm at spots. It swells which is nice for sealing/filling gaps. I don't think I would trust it to do anything upwards of 3mm anyway, that's a pretty serious crack and a weakened foundation risk then and should be properly addressed. But minor cracks, sure, this stuff excels at it. I love the simplicity. As the old solution to this problem, was a much bigger endevour and expensive.
I even went a step further, I drilled 4 inch holes where I was putting those little plastic things with a cable inside so when I put the mortier on the wall it would not block the crack when I have to put in the flexible polyurethane grout
I have the same issue in my basement. I'm looking for the right Sika product to use, so thanks. Question, is the dried, expanded compound a soft foam, sort of like those window gap and crack sealers?
"Sort of, yes. Not a soft foam, no. Not fast expanding like that either, slow. A hard foam though, yes, certanly and a similar idea. If you've ever used original Gorilla glue, then you've used this. Remember with original Gorilla glue (not their super glue or 5 min. epoxy versions etc. now). You had to wet your surfaces first with water and then apply the glue and join them? Then it slowly expanded and made a super strong bond. This is the same thing, water-catalyzed polyurethane glue.
Was wondering if at the American market is not available the sikatop 107 That would been great for mortar also is a high performance mortar for waterproofing water tanks, tunnels between others that used in my living room by a trouble and resulted great
How much water should be sprayed into the ports prior to the PU injection? I've seen videos where they only gave it a few sprays and others where they used a squeeze bottle trying to thoroughly wet the crack. If PU needs water to react then, would the squeeze bottle method be better at ensuring water reaches the entire depth and length of the crack?
i used a cheap pladtic 50 cc syringe to inject water and it worked great. i think goam popping off mortar is fine and normal and mine fid too and not leaking 9 years later. can you trim off Ts and excess foam and paint ?? only downside is its ugly !
I did the same just under 10 years ago and it worked great. My kit used epoxy though rather than mortar for the ports and over the crack and epoxy is better. It bonds extremely well to concrete, both chemically and mechanically and adds strength and sealing effect. If you want a concrete texture afterwards, knock off the ports and smooth a thin layer of Quickrete or whatever over it and it will match the concrete perfectly. Slapping mortar over concrete, has the potential to chip off down the road. It's got no solid chemical bond to it and barely mechanical and zero moisture sealing effect, it's porous. Unlike epoxy, which is so awesome it does both. The pros trust epoxy because of it's unique chemistry with cement. It's epoxy's favourite substrate really.
Great video! My foundation is made of cinder blocks. So if I have a crack in my foundation and inject it with epoxy, should I worry about all of the epoxy going into the large hollow spaces of the cinder blocks?
Most people knock them off and I used some fine Quickrete to smooth it over to match the texture of the rest of the wall then painted it to match. Looked great, like nothing had ever been done to it.
Sure, but I would go over it with some kind of sealer, like the black stuff they put around foundations to seal the porous concrete. But it would serve the same "creeping deep into the crack and expanding to seal it" by chasing water into it, just like inside.
I know what the directions say to do, but I’ve had great results by drilling holes along the crack and putting the injection ports in backwards (deeper into the wall) and leaving the cement to dry overnight before injecting. We had a pretty substantial crack and is sealed up now 😊
@ it didn’t become a problem to be honest save for putting the ports in backwards I followed the directions and had great success. Three years now and it’s still dry as a bone in the basement!
ty for this video, i needed it to give me confidence to do this by myself. It went very well tonight. I will find sleep now. I really think its going to look good enough when i wake up tomorow.
Sorry for the late response; just getting through some older comments now. Congrats on getting it done! Hopefully it worked well for you. It's not the prettiest solution but it has work well for me so far
We had two big bolts coming in from a old concrete deck that was on the house before we purchased it. They were leaking all around the bolts. I had to use a rather unconventional approach as I could not find any instructions on how to fix this. -- I chipped away around the bolts then sawed off the nuts (couldn't loosen them). Removed the metal plates. I used drywall tape to cover the large hole and to hold the t--plug that I inserted backwards, so that the tip was inserted into the large gap beside the metal bolt. Using one of the plugs to ensure the hole in the t-plug did not fill, I then mortared the whole area generously. As the mortar dried, I rotated the plug. A good 24+ hours later to ensure the thick layer of mortar was dry, I injected the polyurethane. So far so good. I will update after some good rainfalls.
Awesome, creative solution! I hope it holds up for you. Sometimes you need to be unconventional when dealing with some of the issues you find in older homes!
Thx for taking the time to make this. I learned something. I would add that I used a silicon sealant to hold those Ts in place. Did the glue gun secure them firmly? I must have knocked half of them loose when I was applying the mortar before getting my head out of butt.
Heh, yeah, I did knock a few off as well. The silicone is a good idea. I just stuck with the hot melt and was extra careful not to hit them. I also would hold them in place with my free hand when applying the mortar.
I have a similar condition here in a clinker facade (outside) and I have concerns about using Sikaflex to fix cracks, because I fear that it might introduce thermal bridges (still better than leaving the crack open i know). Do you have any thoughts on that? Help is much appreciated, thank you from germany for the video :)
I used the kit. I found using a small amount at a time is best. I went with a cups worth and of course the 1/3 water. Mix and apply quickly. Repeat as necessary. Currently waiting for it to dry. Will be injection it tonight.
Just curious when injecting why? start from the bottom up rather than top down? Using gravity as your friend is beneficial rather than working against it.
Did the sika fix solve your water problem? I just had the same results you had with the foam blowing out the mortar. I'm not sure if the crack is sealed. I used this product 4 years ago on my buddy's home and it worked perfectly. I was disappointed in the performance of the mortar this time however.
+Steve Wilson it's been a few months now and we haven't had any water come in through this crack (and we've had a few very rainy days). I'd say that the fix seems to be doing quite well and I'm happy with it. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again if I needed any crack fixed. I would use different mortar right from the beginning though. I hope your crack stays sealed for you. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for sharing your experience with us. It's helpful to all of us when we share information and ideas, it makes us all better. Cheers. All the best to you. Steve and Dawn Wilson
i just did another fix in a different part of the basement so figured i would come back and apply a few comments if you are using the PU filler , you space 8 to 12 inches apart, not 4-8. i tried to use a grinder and although it is prettier it makes a hell of a mess, stick to the chisel. be carful wetting the cement before applying mortar , your glued on nipples can fall right off.. a couple did for me and i forgot it did that the first time too,, another tip is use long finishing nails hammered into crack to hold nipples it place while you apply concrete , then you easily pull them out. if nipples pop off while injecting foam just keep moving forward , not much more you can do , That crap will oooze out everywhere just do your best, you can cut all the excess off after. oh this time i used a dollar store condiment bottle to fire water into the top niipple and just worked my way down, it worked well.
Yeah, that's what my kit was like, it was epoxy. It is better too, yes. If you want concrete texture, then go over the epoxy after knocking off the ports, with some fine Quickrete. That's what I did and then painted it to match. Looked like nothing had ever been done to it. I even ran my hand over it later and couldn't even detect the repair, hehe. Here's what the professionals about epoxy say and why it is a wise choice on concrete especially "A major advantage of epoxies is their surface tolerance, as they can adhere extremely well to a variety of substrates and are hard, durable surfaces. Epoxies also offer the following significant benefits: Ability to Bond To Concrete: In situations where a concrete substrate must receive a coating, epoxies can bind with it both chemically and mechanically. Thick Build Coats: Thanks to their thickness, epoxy build coats are able to be self-level, and can create smooth surfaces by filling cracks and other small blemishes. Long Term Durability and High Performance: Once treated with an epoxy resin, substrates will have a harder, more durable surface that provides good impact resistance." This is likely why some injection kit manufacturers, use epoxy. It's an extra layer of protection, when you think about it. The weakness is already there and slapping more mortar on there isn't going to fix it/strengthen it, or even bond to it properly. There's a very real potential, that years down the road, that may crack off, if moisture seeps in again or the house shifts a little. There's no "extra sealing" or bonding going on there, but lo and behold, there certainly is with epoxy. And an increased strength factor due to excellent bonding of the substrate. I mean, look at epoxy's cousin, cold steel epoxy/JB Weld. The stuff has a pretty respectable psi rating for strength and is tough and extremely versatile. It's like Frank's Red Hot Sauce, I put that s*&t on everything. lol.
@@Vertikala-pc5ig Sure, 5 minute epoxy is available in all stores, especially hardware stores and usually comes in small amounts (typically 2 tubes or 2 part syringes). I've also found 5 min. epoxy at the dollar store and is my favorite place to get it cause it's cheaper there. That's basically all this stuff is that they include to glue on the ports (if they give you anything at all, lots of kits don't and expect you to buy the glue for the ports). And if people want a bigger amount, you can buy 2 part epoxy, in many sizes and varieties from quarts to gallons and from fast drying (like 5 minute epoxy) to medium cure time, to long cure time, which people like for big projects where they need a lot of working time to get the effect they want, without it starting to harden on them (countertops, coffee tables, dinner tables, floors etc.) This may be available at some hardware stores, but if not, Amazon sells lots of larger amounts of 2 part epoxy, from many brands. The stuff used to actually seal the crack, expanding water activated polyurethane crack filler, is practically identical to original Gorilla glue too. If you've ever used original Gorilla glue (the brownish looking stuff), it has the same two properties about it as this stuff for basement cracks, you need water to activate it and it expands like this concrete crack filler stuff. And if you look at what original Gorilla glue is, it's polyurethane glue.
@@MrBilld75 Hi thank you for quick reply. So epoxy will hold the foam not to exit from the crack? Instead of that cement you can use epoxy? Because some people say foam is leaking through cement covering
@@Vertikala-pc5ig Yes, epoxy will hold the foam not prevent it from exiting the crack and force it into the crack instead. This polyurethane foam chases water, so when the water penetrates the concrete/cement the foam likes to follow it then expands to fill the crack. It's pretty ingenious really how it works. Maybe the foam is expanding through the cement covering, because the cement is porous and is spread on thin? That's good to know that you discovered that, I hadn't heard of that. Epoxy isn't nearly as porous as cement and I've seen other videos where professionals have used epoxy and knocked the ports off after everything cured/dried and the job was nearly done and it worked for them. I think what they used was a dark opaque stuff which looked very similar to JB Weld once cured cause it was a dark grey colour like JB Weld once blended and put on the wall. Might have even been JB Weld. But it's also a type of epoxy resin, just mixed with steel dust to give it strength, hence the grey colour once mixed and cured.
Hi. Awesome video. I have small crack but its winter. When hot temperture it leaks and when cold its obvioulsy frozen. Can i apply this during winter time when frozen or when water leaking? I guess not . ill need to do that in the spring i guess ?
Thanks for the comments! I'm not a professional so take my suggestions with a grain of salt but my recommendation would be to avoid doing it when things are frozen. The logic being that if your crack is filled with ice, the foam wouldn't be able to expand into where it needs to go to fix it. Wet should be fine. In fact, you're supposed to wet the crack before applying the foam to activate the product. In short, wet ok; ice bad. Good luck!
Just an fyi, you should never use the first couple oz of this expoy on a port since the first few ounces are never mixed correctly. You want to discard the first few ounces as it'll never harden well.
Epoxy glue is for dry cracks. This polyurethane is suggested for wet conditions like water working through. I’m really surprise Sika provided a mud to cover over the crack. The standard cover is another epoxy, usually gray color, from a tube that glue the injection tubes to the wall and then applied over the length of the crack. The epoxy hardens and then the epoxy or polyurethane glue is injected. The glue is rated to be even stronger than the mason or concrete wall.
I guess the idea of using the very fast setting sikaset plug mortar over regular repair motor or epoxy, is that it is like hydraulic cement and can be applied to damp and even possibly leaking cracks and be able to set very quickly. Epoxy won't bond well to wet surfaces.
@Handyverse I know it's an old comment but I to had an 8 foot Crack and the new kits come with 3 bags and I found 2 to be enough, I did one bag at a time but I'm a bricklayer and know how to use a trowel quickly
be glad its drywall mud and not caulking instead. im a mason, mostly do tuck-pointing, pisses me off to no end when im grinding mortar out of a wall, hit calk and it rips the grinder out of my hands.
This is "One" ya don't hear about. Thanks for the heads up. Can't fault the citizen for doin it though. If they could wave a "wand" and do it no matter how bad they would. That is what separates the "Workman" from the dabbler.
Hot glue do not hold very well the injection T. The fall easily if you just touch their tip while putting mortar. This slow down the job while attempting to put them in place and putting mortar over the tabs to make them hold, and with this mortar you don't have much time. Next time I'll use 5 minute epoxy to get a better fix.
Let your mortar set a few hours first before injecting. That will force the foam outward towards the ground, making it more effective in stopping water.
It is polyurethane. Not epoxy. It is hydrophobic. It helps to wet the crack with water first. As the product it reacts with water and "foams" thusly forcing the foam up to the next nozel. It is great because it is flexible, if future subsidence occurs it will maintain a seal. Epoxy hardens and will break away if the structure shifts in the future. This result is exactly what you are hoping for. Give it a few days, then knock off the nozels, skim with parge and paint. If the crack is visible from the exterior, it helps to caulk the exterior crack to prevent the product migrating to the exterior and wasting product.
"hydrophilic" not hydrophobic. Phobic means it repels water, this stuff is attracted to water, it chases it. You are correct though, this is not epoxy, it's water catalysed expanding polyurethane glue really=like original Gorilla glue. Remember you had to wet the surfaces before applying Gorilla glue and that initialized the expanding and bond action? Same stuff. And yes, it creates and hard foam once dried. Epoxy however, is part of this equation, when done properly (not with mortar over the crack and to attach ports like he did, that's inferior). Epoxy is used over the crack and to attach the injection ports. And it's the choice of pros because unlike mortar, it's not nearly as porous=acts as a sealer. It bonds extremely well to concrete not only mechanically but chemically too and is hard and adds to structural integrity. Sure epoxy is brittle when pressed hard enough, I get your point but it's actually pretty strong and is only acting as an additional layer/polyurethane holder in the crack in this scenario. And when you impregnate it with steel like it's cousin JB Weld, it actually has an impressive psi rating.
I'm thinking of buying this, but not in the kit ... Does the extra bag of mortar you bought go further then the one that came with the kit? My crack is shorter then yours, just under 5 feet ..
I would agree about not bothering with the kit and buying the items separately. The extra bag of mortar that I used covered more than five feet on my wall; probably closer to eight. Good luck!
@@Handyverse Thanks!! Was planning on doing the job tomorrow morning, so your quick reply is VERY appreciated, knowing that I don't have to stress if I'll have enough!
Awesome, good luck! If you have any other questions, just let us know and we'll try to help. One good thing about the mortar part is that even if you do run out, you can pause, go pick up some more, and come back to it later without causing any issues.
Awesome video. Be sure to wear a properly fitted respirator when working with concrete dust and toxic fumes. Also make sure the correct filter cartridges for the working conditions are used with the respirator. Wear eye protection as well.
13:54 unfortunately that’s not all extra epoxy . Due to you not letting the cement/mortar cure long enough you had a blow out , so all of that extra overflow you have should of gone the other way to fill in the whole 6-8inches of your foundation
So far, so good for us. We've had a few rains since then and no water ingress through this crack. It wasn't the prettiest fix but it appears to be working! Thanks for watching and good luck with your own!
@@Handyverse Hey there! So I bought a kit and worked on it the last 2 days. I had to pick up 2 extra tubes of the polyurethane as my crack was pretty wide and deep in some spots. But it all worked out I think. A buddy of mine who owns a foundation repair company (who said he'd come fix it for free) said I did a good job. Thanks for the video!
@@TheGentleman__ You can also buy 2 part epoxy separately if you want to use it with a kit that doesn't come with it. I don't remember the name of the one I used, but it came with nothing, just the caulking gun tube of both water and polyurethane and the injection plugs. I had to buy either epoxy or mortar separately and epoxy was the pro choice and is indeed better. As it bonds to concrete not only mechanically but chemically too. Makes an extremely hard, strong bond and improves structural integrity, the mortar doesn't really and could even chip/crack off down the road. Epoxy's favourite substrate in fact is concrete and it helps seal it too cause it's not super porous like mortar.
You would have been better using Sika foundation repair 2 part epoxy to guess the plugs and patch the crack. It is superior to hydronic cement in such applications. Doubt you would have had it passing out, and you could have done the top too easily. Note: when opening such tubes you are to open it, eject until you see both sides exiting equally, apply nozel, eject until you see uniform mix.
Yup, epoxy bonds to cement both mechanically and chemically. Creating an intrinsic bond that actually improves structural integrity and acts as a sealer.
Sorry for the late reply! Good advice and I agree. I actually left this overnight. The parts that popped off on me were where the expansion foam had nowhere else to go.
I feel having that much escape isn't necessarily a good thing. It's coming out because it's the path of least resistance. If it's easy for it to escape up top to me that means is stuff didn't penetrate as deep. into the foundation.
I used concrete caulking to repair a crack in the foundation inside my basement, and it has worked amazingly well. We used to get water coming in every spring, we haven't had any moisture coming from there since I sealed it with the caulking 4 years ago. I was pretty skeptical about it working, but desperate because I didn't want to spent thousands to have the yard dug up for a repair to be done. I've used that expansion stuff for things around my house, in the states it comes in a spray can with an attachable needle, sort of like how WD40 does. Anyway, I really don't like it, it expands too much, cleaning it up is basically a nightmare, and it turns an awful orange/brown color after a year or so, I also haven't found it to be very effective at sealing things. I tried using in my basement stairwell because caulking wasn't adhering to the concrete very well, it really didn't do what it was supposed to do with sealing the cracked cement. I'm not sure where its ideal application is, but I haven't found it yet....
The problem with concrete caulking is your only sealing the crack and not straight through the concrete after some years water will damage your foundation. unless you repair it from bothsides then your better off using blue seal and blue seal roll on inside. products like this expand through the whole crack sealing it inside and out although i like the radon seal better. in 5 years or so you will start to see the water finding its way through new cracks it erroded over time calling for a larger repair i have fixed many now. hopefully this doesnt happen and you fixed the problems outside to stop the water! :D
That stuff was never meant to seal out moisture all that well though. It's blow foam insulation in a can really. Meant to fill gaps against cold etc. And yes, it expands fast and big and makes a mess. This works on a similar expanding foamy principle, but happens much slower and tamer and is designed against water permeation (even though it initially relies on water for the reaction, gotta love chemistry, lol). That blow foam stuff is not designed against water. Even though it can fare o.k. it it's presence depending on how wet it gets. This stuff can be in water's presence constantly. Have you ever used the original Gorilla Glue (not their other glues, like 5 min. epoxy and their version of krazy glue)? But the original Gorilla Glue, where you applied water to the surface before applying the brownish yellow coloured glue to the surface and it would slowly bubble and expand and make a super strong bond? Well this is literally the same kind of glue, water catalysed expanding polyurethane glue. It's much finer and can seep into crevices well (unlike blow foam insulation in a can), as it is attracted to water and chases it. That's why it shines in this application. I did it about 10 years ago and it worked great and is still going.
@@robknott1687 Precisely, well said. This stuff is extremely hydrophilic and literally "chases" water into the crack. Allowing it to penetrate extremely deeply into the concrete and expand to fill the gap. There is no way concrete caulking gets anwywhere near that and offers no added structural integrity or moisture sealing ability like this. It's practically cosmetic with some outside water protection. Purely skin deep though. Not like this stuff.
**Presses stop button on phone recording app. Smiles contently that the video and project is done. Decides to go into town to grab a coffee just to find his car is nowhere to be found and the neighbor's house is now a big yellow mountain of hard foam.**
Your concrete isn't cured. Did you give it 24hrs? It's Saturday night and I'll give it until Monday night before injecting grout. I used some masonry adhesive but I wire brushed the old paint off first with my grinder. I see you didn't remove any old paint off the concrete. I made sure there was an 1" of bare concrete on both sides of the crack. I made sure to put on extra concrete on those plastic ports. Seeing your results, I might put on more concrete. I'll be pissed if those ports pop off
No, we haven't sealed outside. That area of the house is below our deck so not easy to access. The intention was to do the outside at the same time we replaced the deck.
I followed this video as well as the manufacturer’s video for a similar sized crack. Was a bit disappointed to see that the small plastic conduits that receive the polyurethane a) do not stay in place very well b) do not really provide any promise that they will not get blocked by the mortar mix, resulting in a botched unresolved job. Overall this is a really expensive kit for what is basically a can of expanding spray foam and some mortar. Granted the mortar seems strong but as with many things, this doesn’t feel like it will hold and last long. Bummer.
This stuff is messy and hard to work with. The biggest problem I had was the injection ports kept breaking off the wall and all the foam would just pour out on the ground. R.I.P. $40 tube.
That's why some kits use epoxy to seal over the crack and attach the ports, not mortar like he did. It bonds to concrete super well and acts as a nonporous sealer too. Unlike mortar which is very porous. There's no problem with the ports, when epoxied into the wall and crack. And he's incorrect to call this stuff epoxy too, lol, it's expanding polyurethane glue, just like original Gorilla Glue. They are two distinct things, but epoxy is part of this equation, just in a different way. Remember, you had to wet your surfaces to be bonded, just like this? Same stuff really.
Hmmm, the links still work for us; I'm not sure what's happening there. It isn't an epoxy (I don't remember now but if I said that in the video, it was a mistake). It's a type of expanding foam that actives when it touches water.
The hydraulic cement is not user friendly. It dries in 2 to 3 minutes. Hard to get to stick. And like the video shows, bursts apart when you inject the foam. A better solution is to use some quick setting construction adhesive like pl fast grab. It wont break open and is workable for 20 to 30 minutes. Sticks very well too. Hard as a rock. The only useful thing in this kit is the exspanding polyeurathane foam and the plastic injection plugs.
Have you used this kit? Any tips that may have helped out? We ended up with good results but not very pretty results! It worked well where the surface was prepped properly. We'll let you know how it holds up over time.
Handyverse do you have a Harbor Freight close by? $40 will buy you a 3 gallon compressor. They work pretty well! Hope that repair kit fixes your water problem. I'm leery on 'kits' myself. But hey...if it works 👍
Looking forward to your review if it actually prevents water from coming in. One thing that I am thinking is if the water was penetrating where foundation and ceiling joist meet. But good luck.
The part where the foundation and ceiling joist meet is actually above grade so I'm not worried about that. The only concern might be if the leakage there didn't allow it to properly expand into other cracks and crevices. We did have a couple of rainfalls since I did this and I'm happy to say it hasn't leaked. Unfortunately, we still have water ingress from another source, but this crack was good. Looks promising so far!
Hmmm, I thought I replied to this already but it looks like it didn't go through. I'm leery of kits as well but so far so good with this one. I'd probably buy the parts individually next time but otherwise it seems to have worked (even if it's pretty ugly...). We don't have Harbor Freight here but have Princess Auto which is like the Canadian equivalent. For the amount I need/use a compressor though, I'll probably just stick with the bicycle pump! Thanks for watching!
Used similar, yeah, except my kit used epoxy to go over the crack and attach the plugs, which is better than mortar. As epoxy not only mechanically bonds to concrete, but chemically too. And it has a better sealing effect than mortar, as it's not nearly as porous. Concrete is epoxy's favourite substrate actually, it bonds extremely well to it and increases structural integrity.
I seen your experience and I found what was the problems! First of all your mixed was so dry and incorrect , it suppose to have enough liquidation, so you missed a little water. Second, you didn't clean over the grove line from white color unfortunately which was caused failing your mixed enough! Your additional mixed (second one) it might applied when it was a little late to unified your cover in same condition missed water Your mixed blocked the grove as a result it pop up between cover crack and you didn't check correctly the connection between the nozzles ( leaking water through the nozzles can confirmed or blowing a little air ) I done regarding to avoid all those mistakes and I done good results, but unfortunately I was alone and couldn't make video. But I got a method to apply so different to be sure 100% correct job for all guy new experienced like myself and thanks for your sharing video💃
I hear you, but they make great workshop / storage areas. The way I look at it, is I rather have the space and have to do a little repair now and then than be without the space. My house is 50 years old and we are now just starting to see these problems. So for 50 years worth of use I think a repair or two will be worth it. Also just because you dont have a walk in basement dont mean there is no foundation, you still have a slab and could run into problems with that too.
@@MrNota500 Yes, those are good points, esp. if one buy a new or near new house, the basement s/be good for some time. But I don't know if you know, but a basement that is being used by a family, take up about 40% of a utility bill...that's a lot. Anyways, some people love the basements, and some don't.
I’m pretty sure it’s not epoxy, it looks like Polyurethane, which is not nearly as strong as epoxy. I’m sure it does a good job I’ve heard good things about this product
Note for people of the future: some modern crack repair kits come with epoxy instead of concrete/mortar now. Epoxy prices have fallen, and epoxy works a million times better than anything else -- epoxy is harder than concrete, sticks better, mixes automatically, hardens faster, is more waterproof, and is easier to use. Fixing your own cracks is easy if you go for it! Thank you for the video!
the concrete mortar is only used to mount the injector ports. The repair material is polyurethane foam.
Epoxy is only better long term if you’re in a place with steadier climates, epoxy is harder which means if temperature fluctuates a lot like in Canada, the foundation will move causing a harder material to crack faster, would highly recommend concrete if such a climate is lived in 👍🏼
@@gamenstuff8125 sort of makes sense
I used this and had the same problem with quick setting of the mortar.
Once I was finished, I wasn't sure how well it worked.
I got the foam progressively squirting out the injection nozzle above but I wasn't certain how well it worked.
In the spring Once the snow melted outside I was weed whacking outside along the foundation and noticed the foam had forced its way all the way to the outside and was visible on the above ground portion of the foundation.
Performed way better than I expected...
I like real world results videos. You learn so much more when things don’t always go to plan. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Everything works perfectly in the official video; we thought we'd show another perspective!
I've used this on a basement crack in my Mom's foundation and it worked great. Still not leaking 5 years later. Saved her a tonne of money, digging up the yard and fixing the leak from the outside. She was more than happy with the $60 odd bucks this costed, compared to the fortune it would have cost to fix it the other way.
Great to hear! Thanks for the feedback. Ours is still holding up but it's only been a few months yet. Thanks for watching!
I am in the same boat, it's a 60 year old house and it's no worth it digging up the yard along the sides of the house, tearing up the concrete. I will try this and see how it goes. I am just waiting for the damn water to stop pouring in :)
@@saxytb Yeah, as long as it's not "pouring in" as you say and just damp, then damp is a good thing with this stuff, as it follows the water into the crack. This stuff actually comes in a dual chamber tube when I used it, with water and polyurethane and when it comes out the tip, they mix.
It's a decent option and for under a $100 it can be a decent fix and was actually better than I thought. I was kinda shocked it worked. Her's was a trickle mind you and only in heavy rains, but the crack was letting in enough water that it made the basement floor wet. Beats spending hundreds more or thousands digging up the yard etc. right? Good luck, I hope it works for you.
that's what would satisfy an engineer's ego XD, great job
@First Last Far as I know, it held up fine. My mother sold the house a few years ago and that was about 6 years after I did it. I also tried to remedy (simply) any future issues though from outside, which likely helped, by finding the source outside. An outside leaky faucet that the previous owner before my mother, had not addressed (but she did upon moving in, the damage was already done by then however). Just not leaking from the wall during storms until she'd been there for about a decade.
So, there was a channel of nothing, right about where the crack started from on the inside wall, down next to the foundation, a literal void. Fills with water during heavy storms and voila, leak. I redid her rotten deck before she sold it, which exposed this tap and hole below it, as I was building a smaller deck anyway, without the added "L" section over the tap and basement window. So I thought "I should fill that", as any logical person would do. Took some dirt and gravel and shoved it into the hole and took the extra cement from the one cement piling/support I had to replace for the deck to mount on and poured it on top of the now filled hole. And then laid two patio stones/pavers over that, under the tap and sloped them toward the lawn. So that any water from the tap or rain, (which was when the leak was most noticeable, during heavy rain), would flow away from the house and previous hole to the lawn instead.
Anyway, I digress, back to the subject, yeah this polyurethane injection is designed for precisely those kind of jobs, hairline cracks etc. and can handle even a few mm wide ones. The kind of jobs you don't want to dig up the yard or foundation to fix, from the outside and can be fixed from the inside. It's a method a lot of professional basement sealer guys do too. But you can DIY the same thing yourself. $75 (maybe cheaper where you live, I'm in Canada everything is expensive here, vs. the U.S.), it's worth a shot. It's meant to fix minor leaks and problems/cracks.
Her's was a bit more than hairline, at some points anyway and it was invading at the grout lines of the cinder blocks it was built with and you could see the "steps" it was creating. Like a set of stairs, down the wall. lol. So that gives you a rough idea of it's capabilities. The crack ranged from 1-3mm at spots. It swells which is nice for sealing/filling gaps. I don't think I would trust it to do anything upwards of 3mm anyway, that's a pretty serious crack and a weakened foundation risk then and should be properly addressed. But minor cracks, sure, this stuff excels at it. I love the simplicity. As the old solution to this problem, was a much bigger endevour and expensive.
I even went a step further, I drilled 4 inch holes where I was putting those little plastic things with a cable inside so when I put the mortier on the wall it would not block the crack when I have to put in the flexible polyurethane grout
The Expos !!!!!!! My favorite team ever.
- A guy from Quebec, Canada. :)
Still hoping they come back!
I have the same issue in my basement. I'm looking for the right Sika product to use, so thanks. Question, is the dried, expanded compound a soft foam, sort of like those window gap and crack sealers?
"Sort of, yes. Not a soft foam, no. Not fast expanding like that either, slow. A hard foam though, yes, certanly and a similar idea. If you've ever used original Gorilla glue, then you've used this. Remember with original Gorilla glue (not their super glue or 5 min. epoxy versions etc. now). You had to wet your surfaces first with water and then apply the glue and join them? Then it slowly expanded and made a super strong bond. This is the same thing, water-catalyzed polyurethane glue.
Do you have an update on this, is it still standing up? No leak?
Does SIKA have a product to stop water leaks along the cold joint of retaining walls?
Was wondering if at the American market is not available the sikatop 107 That would been great for mortar also is a high performance mortar for waterproofing water tanks, tunnels between others that used in my living room by a trouble and resulted great
Can you use this sika kit product for an outdoor crack and which gun did you use to inject arounded Powered in the video. Thanks
Great video. Lucky that you had a variety of results as you worked your way up the wall - more instructional that way.
Hows it holding up after 5 or so yrs? Looking to do same thing wondering if you'd still recommend this product
How much water should be sprayed into the ports prior to the PU injection? I've seen videos where they only gave it a few sprays and others where they used a squeeze bottle trying to thoroughly wet the crack. If PU needs water to react then, would the squeeze bottle method be better at ensuring water reaches the entire depth and length of the crack?
So did this work or not? Did it stop the leaks? Did it stop further cracking?
I'm here asking the same thing
i used a cheap pladtic 50 cc syringe to inject water and it worked great.
i think goam popping off mortar is fine and normal and mine fid too and not leaking 9 years later.
can you trim off Ts and excess foam and paint ?? only downside is its ugly !
Did you do a follow up video about this repair? Would be nice if you would give us an update! Thanks for the video!
I did the same just under 10 years ago and it worked great. My kit used epoxy though rather than mortar for the ports and over the crack and epoxy is better. It bonds extremely well to concrete, both chemically and mechanically and adds strength and sealing effect. If you want a concrete texture afterwards, knock off the ports and smooth a thin layer of Quickrete or whatever over it and it will match the concrete perfectly.
Slapping mortar over concrete, has the potential to chip off down the road. It's got no solid chemical bond to it and barely mechanical and zero moisture sealing effect, it's porous. Unlike epoxy, which is so awesome it does both. The pros trust epoxy because of it's unique chemistry with cement. It's epoxy's favourite substrate really.
Does this product work for exterior side crack of concrete wall?
Yes but has to be clean concrete
Did you spray water in the nozzle ports before pressing in the polyurethane?
Great video! My foundation is made of cinder blocks. So if I have a crack in my foundation and inject it with epoxy, should I worry about all of the epoxy going into the large hollow spaces of the cinder blocks?
yes
Thanks for the video, very helpful. What did you do with the tips after everything is dry? Did you cut them off or leave them sticking out?
Most people knock them off and I used some fine Quickrete to smooth it over to match the texture of the rest of the wall then painted it to match. Looked great, like nothing had ever been done to it.
All the different injection kits say to allow it to flow onto a rag or the ground until you see the the product mixed.
would this product work on corner where the north and east walls meet big crack water came this spring
What is the largest crack it will fill and what part# kit was used?
Can the same method be applied from outside?
Sure, but I would go over it with some kind of sealer, like the black stuff they put around foundations to seal the porous concrete. But it would serve the same "creeping deep into the crack and expanding to seal it" by chasing water into it, just like inside.
Can not find in us home depot, where can I buy?
Good idea... Ussefull Information... Thanks.
I know what the directions say to do, but I’ve had great results by drilling holes along the crack and putting the injection ports in backwards (deeper into the wall) and leaving the cement to dry overnight before injecting. We had a pretty substantial crack and is sealed up now 😊
Same
Need to repair my basement this weekend will try this. Thank
Ha! Interesting idea!
@@markstevens8870 when you put ports the other way how did you block them so foam doesn’t come through them?
@ it didn’t become a problem to be honest save for putting the ports in backwards I followed the directions and had great success. Three years now and it’s still dry as a bone in the basement!
ty for this video, i needed it to give me confidence to do this by myself. It went very well tonight. I will find sleep now. I really think its going to look good enough when i wake up tomorow.
Sorry for the late response; just getting through some older comments now. Congrats on getting it done! Hopefully it worked well for you. It's not the prettiest solution but it has work well for me so far
We had two big bolts coming in from a old concrete deck that was on the house before we purchased it. They were leaking all around the bolts. I had to use a rather unconventional approach as I could not find any instructions on how to fix this. -- I chipped away around the bolts then sawed off the nuts (couldn't loosen them). Removed the metal plates. I used drywall tape to cover the large hole and to hold the t--plug that I inserted backwards, so that the tip was inserted into the large gap beside the metal bolt. Using one of the plugs to ensure the hole in the t-plug did not fill, I then mortared the whole area generously. As the mortar dried, I rotated the plug. A good 24+ hours later to ensure the thick layer of mortar was dry, I injected the polyurethane. So far so good. I will update after some good rainfalls.
Awesome, creative solution! I hope it holds up for you. Sometimes you need to be unconventional when dealing with some of the issues you find in older homes!
I have same issue but it's the snap-ties leaking for me
Thx for taking the time to make this. I learned something. I would add that I used a silicon sealant to hold those Ts in place. Did the glue gun secure them firmly? I must have knocked half of them loose when I was applying the mortar before getting my head out of butt.
Heh, yeah, I did knock a few off as well. The silicone is a good idea. I just stuck with the hot melt and was extra careful not to hit them. I also would hold them in place with my free hand when applying the mortar.
I have a similar condition here in a clinker facade (outside) and I have concerns about using Sikaflex to fix cracks, because I fear that it might introduce thermal bridges (still better than leaving the crack open i know). Do you have any thoughts on that?
Help is much appreciated, thank you from germany for the video :)
Can you use this kit on a bedroom floor concrete.. Have a edging in one bed room ans cement floor holes could I use this kit for it??
I used the kit. I found using a small amount at a time is best. I went with a cups worth and of course the 1/3 water. Mix and apply quickly. Repeat as necessary. Currently waiting for it to dry. Will be injection it tonight.
Just curious when injecting why? start from the bottom up rather than top down? Using gravity as your friend is beneficial rather than working against it.
Did the sika fix solve your water problem? I just had the same results you had with the foam blowing out the mortar. I'm not sure if the crack is sealed. I used this product 4 years ago on my buddy's home and it worked perfectly. I was disappointed in the performance of the mortar this time however.
+Steve Wilson it's been a few months now and we haven't had any water come in through this crack (and we've had a few very rainy days). I'd say that the fix seems to be doing quite well and I'm happy with it. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again if I needed any crack fixed. I would use different mortar right from the beginning though. I hope your crack stays sealed for you. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for sharing your experience with us. It's helpful to all of us when we share information and ideas, it makes us all better. Cheers.
All the best to you.
Steve and Dawn Wilson
i just did another fix in a different part of the basement so figured i would come back and apply a few comments
if you are using the PU filler , you space 8 to 12 inches apart, not 4-8.
i tried to use a grinder and although it is prettier it makes a hell of a mess, stick to the chisel.
be carful wetting the cement before applying mortar , your glued on nipples can fall right off.. a couple did for me and i forgot it did that the first time too,, another tip is use long finishing nails hammered into crack to hold nipples it place while you apply concrete , then you easily pull them out.
if nipples pop off while injecting foam just keep moving forward , not much more you can do ,
That crap will oooze out everywhere just do your best, you can cut all the excess off after.
oh this time i used a dollar store condiment bottle to fire water into the top niipple and just worked my way down, it worked well.
good job, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Other brands/kits use epoxy and not motor mix to attach the ports and fill the cracks prior to injection which is better. Thanks for the video.
Yeah, that's what my kit was like, it was epoxy. It is better too, yes. If you want concrete texture, then go over the epoxy after knocking off the ports, with some fine Quickrete. That's what I did and then painted it to match. Looked like nothing had ever been done to it. I even ran my hand over it later and couldn't even detect the repair, hehe.
Here's what the professionals about epoxy say and why it is a wise choice on concrete especially "A major advantage of epoxies is their surface tolerance, as they can adhere extremely well to a variety of substrates and are hard, durable surfaces. Epoxies also offer the following significant benefits:
Ability to Bond To Concrete: In situations where a concrete substrate must receive a coating, epoxies can bind with it both chemically and mechanically.
Thick Build Coats: Thanks to their thickness, epoxy build coats are able to be self-level, and can create smooth surfaces by filling cracks and other small blemishes.
Long Term Durability and High Performance: Once treated with an epoxy resin, substrates will have a harder, more durable surface that provides good impact resistance."
This is likely why some injection kit manufacturers, use epoxy. It's an extra layer of protection, when you think about it. The weakness is already there and slapping more mortar on there isn't going to fix it/strengthen it, or even bond to it properly. There's a very real potential, that years down the road, that may crack off, if moisture seeps in again or the house shifts a little. There's no "extra sealing" or bonding going on there, but lo and behold, there certainly is with epoxy. And an increased strength factor due to excellent bonding of the substrate.
I mean, look at epoxy's cousin, cold steel epoxy/JB Weld. The stuff has a pretty respectable psi rating for strength and is tough and extremely versatile. It's like Frank's Red Hot Sauce, I put that s*&t on everything. lol.
@@MrBilld75Can you buy epoxy separately in any store?
@@Vertikala-pc5ig Sure, 5 minute epoxy is available in all stores, especially hardware stores and usually comes in small amounts (typically 2 tubes or 2 part syringes). I've also found 5 min. epoxy at the dollar store and is my favorite place to get it cause it's cheaper there. That's basically all this stuff is that they include to glue on the ports (if they give you anything at all, lots of kits don't and expect you to buy the glue for the ports).
And if people want a bigger amount, you can buy 2 part epoxy, in many sizes and varieties from quarts to gallons and from fast drying (like 5 minute epoxy) to medium cure time, to long cure time, which people like for big projects where they need a lot of working time to get the effect they want, without it starting to harden on them (countertops, coffee tables, dinner tables, floors etc.) This may be available at some hardware stores, but if not, Amazon sells lots of larger amounts of 2 part epoxy, from many brands.
The stuff used to actually seal the crack, expanding water activated polyurethane crack filler, is practically identical to original Gorilla glue too. If you've ever used original Gorilla glue (the brownish looking stuff), it has the same two properties about it as this stuff for basement cracks, you need water to activate it and it expands like this concrete crack filler stuff. And if you look at what original Gorilla glue is, it's polyurethane glue.
@@MrBilld75 Hi thank you for quick reply. So epoxy will hold the foam not to exit from the crack? Instead of that cement you can use epoxy? Because some people say foam is leaking through cement covering
@@Vertikala-pc5ig Yes, epoxy will hold the foam not prevent it from exiting the crack and force it into the crack instead. This polyurethane foam chases water, so when the water penetrates the concrete/cement the foam likes to follow it then expands to fill the crack. It's pretty ingenious really how it works. Maybe the foam is expanding through the cement covering, because the cement is porous and is spread on thin? That's good to know that you discovered that, I hadn't heard of that. Epoxy isn't nearly as porous as cement and I've seen other videos where professionals have used epoxy and knocked the ports off after everything cured/dried and the job was nearly done and it worked for them.
I think what they used was a dark opaque stuff which looked very similar to JB Weld once cured cause it was a dark grey colour like JB Weld once blended and put on the wall. Might have even been JB Weld. But it's also a type of epoxy resin, just mixed with steel dust to give it strength, hence the grey colour once mixed and cured.
wow... what a camera... perfect... thanks for the review
your welcome. Hope it was helpful
Hi. Awesome video. I have small crack but its winter. When hot temperture it leaks and when cold its obvioulsy frozen. Can i apply this during winter time when frozen or when water leaking? I guess not . ill need to do that in the spring i guess ?
Thanks for the comments! I'm not a professional so take my suggestions with a grain of salt but my recommendation would be to avoid doing it when things are frozen. The logic being that if your crack is filled with ice, the foam wouldn't be able to expand into where it needs to go to fix it. Wet should be fine. In fact, you're supposed to wet the crack before applying the foam to activate the product. In short, wet ok; ice bad. Good luck!
Just an fyi, you should never use the first couple oz of this expoy on a port since the first few ounces are never mixed correctly. You want to discard the first few ounces as it'll never harden well.
Interesting. Thanks. Didnt know this.
this is not epoxy that was injected
Epoxy glue is for dry cracks. This polyurethane is suggested for wet conditions like water working through. I’m really surprise Sika provided a mud to cover over the crack. The standard cover is another epoxy, usually gray color, from a tube that glue the injection tubes to the wall and then applied over the length of the crack. The epoxy hardens and then the epoxy or polyurethane glue is injected. The glue is rated to be even stronger than the mason or concrete wall.
Thank you for doing this for us.
Great explanation 👌 thanks 😊👍
8 am happy with your video sir and I will try my foundation crack, thank you 😊
I guess the idea of using the very fast setting sikaset plug mortar over regular repair motor or epoxy, is that it is like hydraulic cement and can be applied to damp and even possibly leaking cracks and be able to set very quickly. Epoxy won't bond well to wet surfaces.
Hi,
How long was the crack? Did it take the whole tube for the entire crack? Or did you need to add another tube before you filled the crack?
The crack was about 8 feet long. One tube was plenty. However, I did need to buy more mortar.
@Handyverse I know it's an old comment but I to had an 8 foot Crack and the new kits come with 3 bags and I found 2 to be enough, I did one bag at a time but I'm a bricklayer and know how to use a trowel quickly
What about the clean up for a smooth wall to paint
great, thanks
I hope I’m this happy when I attempt this project! Thanks for the video, love the hat fond memories of the Montreal Expos👍🇨🇦
Hah, always try to keep a positive mindset! :p Like the way I keep hoping for an Expos return!
@@Handyverse An hockey team in QC city with that? Lol
HEY HANDYVI DO YOU HAVE A VIDEOS LIKE HOW TO REPAIR A RESIDENTIAL FOUNDATION. IS CRACK. ALL AROUND THE HOUSE CAN YOU GIVE ME AN IDEA PLEASE. THANKS
Sorry, we'd like to try to help but we're not sure if we understand the question.
What's the white plastic stick markers for again?
They are the ports you use to inject the product. Is this what you are referring to?
be glad its drywall mud and not caulking instead. im a mason, mostly do tuck-pointing, pisses me off to no end when im grinding mortar out of a wall, hit calk and it rips the grinder out of my hands.
This is "One" ya don't hear about.
Thanks for the heads up.
Can't fault the citizen for doin it though.
If they could wave a "wand" and do it no matter how bad they would.
That is what separates the "Workman" from the dabbler.
Hey just wondering if it worked and stopped the leak.
Yup, it stopped the leak completely. No ingress at all since I used this
Hot glue do not hold very well the injection T. The fall easily if you just touch their tip while putting mortar. This slow down the job while attempting to put them in place and putting mortar over the tabs to make them hold, and with this mortar you don't have much time. Next time I'll use 5 minute epoxy to get a better fix.
Let your mortar set a few hours first before injecting. That will force the foam outward towards the ground, making it more effective in stopping water.
W
It is polyurethane. Not epoxy. It is hydrophobic. It helps to wet the crack with water first. As the product it reacts with water and "foams" thusly forcing the foam up to the next nozel. It is great because it is flexible, if future subsidence occurs it will maintain a seal. Epoxy hardens and will break away if the structure shifts in the future. This result is exactly what you are hoping for. Give it a few days, then knock off the nozels, skim with parge and paint. If the crack is visible from the exterior, it helps to caulk the exterior crack to prevent the product migrating to the exterior and wasting product.
"hydrophilic" not hydrophobic. Phobic means it repels water, this stuff is attracted to water, it chases it. You are correct though, this is not epoxy, it's water catalysed expanding polyurethane glue really=like original Gorilla glue. Remember you had to wet the surfaces before applying Gorilla glue and that initialized the expanding and bond action? Same stuff. And yes, it creates and hard foam once dried. Epoxy however, is part of this equation, when done properly (not with mortar over the crack and to attach ports like he did, that's inferior).
Epoxy is used over the crack and to attach the injection ports. And it's the choice of pros because unlike mortar, it's not nearly as porous=acts as a sealer. It bonds extremely well to concrete not only mechanically but chemically too and is hard and adds to structural integrity.
Sure epoxy is brittle when pressed hard enough, I get your point but it's actually pretty strong and is only acting as an additional layer/polyurethane holder in the crack in this scenario. And when you impregnate it with steel like it's cousin JB Weld, it actually has an impressive psi rating.
Good job sir
I'm thinking of buying this, but not in the kit ... Does the extra bag of mortar you bought go further then the one that came with the kit? My crack is shorter then yours, just under 5 feet ..
I would agree about not bothering with the kit and buying the items separately. The extra bag of mortar that I used covered more than five feet on my wall; probably closer to eight. Good luck!
@@Handyverse Thanks!! Was planning on doing the job tomorrow morning, so your quick reply is VERY appreciated, knowing that I don't have to stress if I'll have enough!
Awesome, good luck! If you have any other questions, just let us know and we'll try to help. One good thing about the mortar part is that even if you do run out, you can pause, go pick up some more, and come back to it later without causing any issues.
Oh man super
Merci beaucoup beaucoup
Gracias
Very nice video
Clear lik💧
Love your cap
Awesome video. Be sure to wear a properly fitted respirator when working with concrete dust and toxic fumes. Also make sure the correct filter cartridges for the working conditions are used with the respirator. Wear eye protection as well.
I used the menards stuff in posts and worked great glad to see things work other places
Thanks for sharing too!
13:54 unfortunately that’s not all extra epoxy . Due to you not letting the cement/mortar cure long enough you had a blow out , so all of that extra overflow you have should of gone the other way to fill in the whole 6-8inches of your foundation
Hi!I was actually wondering how well the product work.Great job :)!Thanks for sharing!I appreciate it :)!
So far, so good for us. We've had a few rains since then and no water ingress through this crack. It wasn't the prettiest fix but it appears to be working! Thanks for watching and good luck with your own!
Any leaks?
No leaks at all after a year and a half.
Doesn't look that way in your Nov 2018 fan filter video. What is all that around the wall??
@@Handyverse Hey there! So I bought a kit and worked on it the last 2 days. I had to pick up 2 extra tubes of the polyurethane as my crack was pretty wide and deep in some spots. But it all worked out I think. A buddy of mine who owns a foundation repair company (who said he'd come fix it for free) said I did a good job. Thanks for the video!
Also instead of morter we use a product called Sika patch and plug. Great stuff.
Interesting. How is it holding up?
Very good video.
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful
Well done !!!
Thanks!
Wall killer foam. Now how big is pressure inside? no more broken bottom >?
Sweet hat!!! Represent!
I'm still mad about the 94 season... 😜
Looked like it worked ok. The other brand that uses epoxy instead of morter looked more efficient.
The brand that uses epoxy, what is the name of it?
@@TheGentleman__ You can also buy 2 part epoxy separately if you want to use it with a kit that doesn't come with it. I don't remember the name of the one I used, but it came with nothing, just the caulking gun tube of both water and polyurethane and the injection plugs. I had to buy either epoxy or mortar separately and epoxy was the pro choice and is indeed better. As it bonds to concrete not only mechanically but chemically too. Makes an extremely hard, strong bond and improves structural integrity, the mortar doesn't really and could even chip/crack off down the road. Epoxy's favourite substrate in fact is concrete and it helps seal it too cause it's not super porous like mortar.
You would have been better using Sika foundation repair 2 part epoxy to guess the plugs and patch the crack. It is superior to hydronic cement in such applications. Doubt you would have had it passing out, and you could have done the top too easily.
Note: when opening such tubes you are to open it, eject until you see both sides exiting equally, apply nozel, eject until you see uniform mix.
Yup, epoxy bonds to cement both mechanically and chemically. Creating an intrinsic bond that actually improves structural integrity and acts as a sealer.
Love the Baseball hat ! im from montreal !
Hello from the east coast! I'm still waiting for the Expos to return!
You must have let it dry longer to avoid overflow in concrete. Cure time is important... It takes more time than to dry than it is says on directions!
Sorry for the late reply! Good advice and I agree. I actually left this overnight. The parts that popped off on me were where the expansion foam had nowhere else to go.
I feel having that much escape isn't necessarily a good thing. It's coming out because it's the path of least resistance. If it's easy for it to escape up top to me that means is stuff didn't penetrate as deep. into the foundation.
Looks great
Thanks!
It looks HIDEOUS!!
I used concrete caulking to repair a crack in the foundation inside my basement, and it has worked amazingly well. We used to get water coming in every spring, we haven't had any moisture coming from there since I sealed it with the caulking 4 years ago. I was pretty skeptical about it working, but desperate because I didn't want to spent thousands to have the yard dug up for a repair to be done.
I've used that expansion stuff for things around my house, in the states it comes in a spray can with an attachable needle, sort of like how WD40 does. Anyway, I really don't like it, it expands too much, cleaning it up is basically a nightmare, and it turns an awful orange/brown color after a year or so, I also haven't found it to be very effective at sealing things. I tried using in my basement stairwell because caulking wasn't adhering to the concrete very well, it really didn't do what it was supposed to do with sealing the cracked cement. I'm not sure where its ideal application is, but I haven't found it yet....
I've had mixed results with the concrete caulking but I'm glad to hear it worked out for you. Thanks for the tips!
The problem with concrete caulking is your only sealing the crack and not straight through the concrete after some years water will damage your foundation. unless you repair it from bothsides then your better off using blue seal and blue seal roll on inside. products like this expand through the whole crack sealing it inside and out although i like the radon seal better. in 5 years or so you will start to see the water finding its way through new cracks it erroded over time calling for a larger repair i have fixed many now. hopefully this doesnt happen and you fixed the problems outside to stop the water! :D
Wow. haha Concrete chalk is for sealing and cosmetic not structural.
That stuff was never meant to seal out moisture all that well though. It's blow foam insulation in a can really. Meant to fill gaps against cold etc. And yes, it expands fast and big and makes a mess. This works on a similar expanding foamy principle, but happens much slower and tamer and is designed against water permeation (even though it initially relies on water for the reaction, gotta love chemistry, lol). That blow foam stuff is not designed against water. Even though it can fare o.k. it it's presence depending on how wet it gets. This stuff can be in water's presence constantly.
Have you ever used the original Gorilla Glue (not their other glues, like 5 min. epoxy and their version of krazy glue)? But the original Gorilla Glue, where you applied water to the surface before applying the brownish yellow coloured glue to the surface and it would slowly bubble and expand and make a super strong bond? Well this is literally the same kind of glue, water catalysed expanding polyurethane glue. It's much finer and can seep into crevices well (unlike blow foam insulation in a can), as it is attracted to water and chases it. That's why it shines in this application. I did it about 10 years ago and it worked great and is still going.
@@robknott1687 Precisely, well said. This stuff is extremely hydrophilic and literally "chases" water into the crack. Allowing it to penetrate extremely deeply into the concrete and expand to fill the gap. There is no way concrete caulking gets anwywhere near that and offers no added structural integrity or moisture sealing ability like this. It's practically cosmetic with some outside water protection. Purely skin deep though. Not like this stuff.
**Presses stop button on phone recording app. Smiles contently that the video and project is done. Decides to go into town to grab a coffee just to find his car is nowhere to be found and the neighbor's house is now a big yellow mountain of hard foam.**
Lol. It doesn't leak though! 🤪
Good
Thanks!
Your concrete isn't cured.
Did you give it 24hrs?
It's Saturday night and I'll give it until Monday night before injecting grout.
I used some masonry adhesive but I wire brushed the old paint off first with my grinder. I see you didn't remove any old paint off the concrete. I made sure there was an 1" of bare concrete on both sides of the crack.
I made sure to put on extra concrete on those plastic ports.
Seeing your results, I might put on more concrete. I'll be pissed if those ports pop off
Would prefer the twang guitar to be at least half volume of the vocal audio. not that it sucks. Thanks for sharing your experience
Thanks for the feedback. We had this problem on a few of our earlier videos. I think we have it sorted out now for newer releases :)
Nice!
Thanks!
liquid nail works pretty good too.
I think you did not put enough water in the mix?
Update ??
Still good. Not a drop of water since
@@Handyverse I been lately going crazy searching for products like this. Did you by chance seal the other side ? Thank u for the reply as well !
No, we haven't sealed outside. That area of the house is below our deck so not easy to access. The intention was to do the outside at the same time we replaced the deck.
I followed this video as well as the manufacturer’s video for a similar sized crack. Was a bit disappointed to see that the small plastic conduits that receive the polyurethane a) do not stay in place very well b) do not really provide any promise that they will not get blocked by the mortar mix, resulting in a botched unresolved job. Overall this is a really expensive kit for what is basically a can of expanding spray foam and some mortar. Granted the mortar seems strong but as with many things, this doesn’t feel like it will hold and last long. Bummer.
This stuff is messy and hard to work with. The biggest problem I had was the injection ports kept breaking off the wall and all the foam would just pour out on the ground. R.I.P. $40 tube.
That is a good point; you do need to make sure there is plenty of mortar around the ports or they will pop off. Sorry to hear it didn't work for you.
That's why some kits use epoxy to seal over the crack and attach the ports, not mortar like he did. It bonds to concrete super well and acts as a nonporous sealer too. Unlike mortar which is very porous. There's no problem with the ports, when epoxied into the wall and crack. And he's incorrect to call this stuff epoxy too, lol, it's expanding polyurethane glue, just like original Gorilla Glue. They are two distinct things, but epoxy is part of this equation, just in a different way. Remember, you had to wet your surfaces to be bonded, just like this? Same stuff really.
Links in description do not work. Are you sure this is epoxy? Epoxy must not be mixed with water. It is more like polyurethane resin.
Hmmm, the links still work for us; I'm not sure what's happening there. It isn't an epoxy (I don't remember now but if I said that in the video, it was a mistake). It's a type of expanding foam that actives when it touches water.
@@Handyverse at 8:46
Love the Spoes Hat :D
Haha, thanks. They still seem to have quite a following
The hydraulic cement is not user friendly. It dries in 2 to 3 minutes. Hard to get to stick. And like the video shows, bursts apart when you inject the foam. A better solution is to use some quick setting construction adhesive like pl fast grab. It wont break open and is workable for 20 to 30 minutes. Sticks very well too. Hard as a rock. The only useful thing in this kit is the exspanding polyeurathane foam and the plastic injection plugs.
Okay, Four years later. How'd it do?
Have you used this kit? Any tips that may have helped out? We ended up with good results but not very pretty results! It worked well where the surface was prepped properly. We'll let you know how it holds up over time.
Handyverse do you have a Harbor Freight close by? $40 will buy you a 3 gallon compressor. They work pretty well! Hope that repair kit fixes your water problem. I'm leery on 'kits' myself. But hey...if it works 👍
Looking forward to your review if it actually prevents water from coming in. One thing that I am thinking is if the water was penetrating where foundation and ceiling joist meet. But good luck.
The part where the foundation and ceiling joist meet is actually above grade so I'm not worried about that. The only concern might be if the leakage there didn't allow it to properly expand into other cracks and crevices. We did have a couple of rainfalls since I did this and I'm happy to say it hasn't leaked. Unfortunately, we still have water ingress from another source, but this crack was good. Looks promising so far!
Hmmm, I thought I replied to this already but it looks like it didn't go through. I'm leery of kits as well but so far so good with this one. I'd probably buy the parts individually next time but otherwise it seems to have worked (even if it's pretty ugly...). We don't have Harbor Freight here but have Princess Auto which is like the Canadian equivalent. For the amount I need/use a compressor though, I'll probably just stick with the bicycle pump! Thanks for watching!
Used similar, yeah, except my kit used epoxy to go over the crack and attach the plugs, which is better than mortar. As epoxy not only mechanically bonds to concrete, but chemically too. And it has a better sealing effect than mortar, as it's not nearly as porous. Concrete is epoxy's favourite substrate actually, it bonds extremely well to it and increases structural integrity.
I seen your experience and I found what was the problems!
First of all your mixed was so dry and incorrect , it suppose to have enough liquidation, so you missed a little water.
Second, you didn't clean over the grove line from white color unfortunately which was caused failing your mixed enough!
Your additional mixed (second one) it might applied when it was a little late to unified your cover in same condition missed water
Your mixed blocked the grove as a result it pop up between cover crack and you didn't check correctly the connection between the nozzles ( leaking water through the nozzles can confirmed or blowing a little air )
I done regarding to avoid all those mistakes and I done good results, but unfortunately I was alone and couldn't make video. But I got a method to apply so different to be sure 100% correct job for all guy new experienced like myself and thanks for your sharing video💃
Thanks for the suggestions! We're glad to hear that it worked for you. Thanks for watching.
This is why I have never had a house that had a basement...and never will, just more troubles!
Unfortunately most of the houses where we live do have basements. Fact of life for us
Yes, probably 95% of houses do have basements, and that's okay - but I just don't like'em, hence, my house(s) are ranch style(s).
I hear you, but they make great workshop / storage areas. The way I look at it, is I rather have the space and have to do a little repair now and then than be without the space. My house is 50 years old and we are now just starting to see these problems. So for 50 years worth of use I think a repair or two will be worth it. Also just because you dont have a walk in basement dont mean there is no foundation, you still have a slab and could run into problems with that too.
@@MrNota500 Yes, those are good points, esp. if one buy a new or near new house, the basement s/be good for some time. But I don't know if you know, but a basement that is being used by a family, take up about 40% of a utility bill...that's a lot. Anyways, some people love the basements, and some don't.
Great video! Thanks for the info!
Thanks! We're glad you found it helpful
Your location in the phillipines. Tnx
I’m pretty sure it’s not epoxy, it looks like Polyurethane, which is not nearly as strong as epoxy. I’m sure it does a good job I’ve heard good things about this product
Why Why WHY do people run background music in their instructional videos?? It does nothing except make it more difficult to follow.
Dude, you need to get an air compressor. How can you think you qualify as handy without and air compressor?
About that baseball cap?
They'll come back some day...