How to choose a cleaning solution
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- A general overview of cleaning solvents and techniques.
Solvent selection and effectiveness: www.productionm...
Dan Gelbart on coatings and surface cleaning: • Building Prototypes Da...
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This is one of the best videos ever. A topic often overlooked and the explanations are so concise.
Using HF to clean kitchen bowls. What a riot.
Ben, I think the bowl scratch should have been its own video. It was hilarious to see you pull out a huge Ti rod and casually scrape your breakfast cereal bowl.
+oisiaa Yes, I was thinking of splitting this video, but then I feel like I am cheating the folks who have pledged on Patreon. I certainly appreciate the support, but in a weird way, it makes me feel like each video must meet a certain quality and length threshold. I know that most viewers enjoy the type of video that I was making prior to starting Patreon, so I should just keep doing that, but it's not so easy to internalize the thought.
+Applied Science I just upped my pledge a buck to raise your stress level...neener neener.
+Applied Science how about a side channel where you can upload short or previews/teaser videos?
+oisiaa Funny part about that? I have titanium sporks (yes, the best eating implement ever) and when I heard him say he was going to clean the 'lightning strikes' of titanium from the bottom of a bowl I got excited and started taking notes. I have about half a dozen bowls and plates with such marks.
Then he broke out the hydrofluoric acid.
Nope, nope nope nope. Time to buy new plates and bowls!
oisiaa
Agreed! I laughed my ass off.
Man, Ive actually been wanting a video on exactly this topic for awhile, the fact that you made an entire video on cleaning solutions just reaffirms that this is my favorite youtube channel. Thank you for all of the fascinating content.
I do a lot of auto work and find myself blowing through a ton of solvent to clean parts. I never would have considered using bleach before this video. I'm sure it would rust the snot out of most metals with any long duration of exposure, but I'll definitely give it a try with a good rinse afterwards.
+NightHawkInLight If the grease is really thick, the bleach (Comet or Ajax) may not work well until most of the gunk is already removed. However, definitely check out the use of hot ethylene glycol (a boiling pot of antifreeze) to de-grease parts without scrubbing. I haven't tried it, but it apparently works a charm: th-cam.com/video/cCTQK9aKpr0/w-d-xo.html
+Applied Science Interesting, that's also a clever way to go.
+NightHawkInLight I use kerosene or diesel fuel in a "Sure Shot sprayer", then brake clean and air.
+NightHawkInLight Bleach...cheap a and easy to buy...but, I left a few tool-steel drill bits in some bleach for a couple hours....they were seriously eaten away....
+Doug Ankrum Yeah bleach is not a good choice for steel. It's a strong oxidizer and after reaction leaves salt which isn't so good for steel either. It doesn't take much on really clean steel to cause insta-rusting.
I would love to see next video about glues in similar fashion :)
+Piotr Drozdowski Excellent idea
+Piotr Drozdowski See Dan Gelbart's channel, He has a video on adhesives.
YES! Im currently battling with a stickly slimy residue from 10 year old double sided tape. Who would have thought such a weak adhesive would be so hard to remove!
Update for anyone who cares: paraffin and a good scrub with a brush worked pretty well
@@AEON. thanks for the advice. Im in uk so no walmarts round here but might be able to get it online. Interesting idea using more tape. Jobs done now but ill bear it in mind for next time!
Some chemicals have an understated reputation in terms of safety, such that the substance poses risks that are not often discussed, and can be a latent hazard. Other chemicals are overstated.
+Applied Science Hey what type of bleach are you using? Will Sodium hypochlorite transom oil chemically?
+Applied Science Not sure what kind of gloves you're using, but HF will weaken/possibly penetrate standard lab gloves like latex/vinyl/nitrile. Nasty stuff, be safe.
+Applied Science Something tells me the Ultrasonic cleaner is next
+Applied Science From my understanding, the water in Isopropyl is there to help in killing germs. A water molecule is required for the chem reaction.
+Yandy True.. just because a glove holds back water doesn't mean that chemicals won't pass.
Ok here is a few things that might interest you:
First I believe isopropanol is usually sold as 70% solutions in drug stores because it's the most effective concentration for disinfecting stuff. It also doesn't dry up skin as much as higher concentrations.
Secondly, the solution that is usually refered as piranha is a mixture of concentrated sulfuric acid and hydrogen peroxide (usually 30%). It is extremely effective at oxidizing organic matter. The effectiveness of your hydrofluoric acid solution might also come from it's ability to sligthly dissolve the surface of the bowl, thus dislodging any dirt. For other glassware cleaning solutions, you might want to check aqua regia and base bath.
Also (O_O) that hydrofluoric acid bottle is scary! A few thing you might wanna know if you're brave enough to work with that stuff : HF is quite volatile, especially at high concentration. So you absolutely want to work under a fumehood or something. Gloves are also not an absolute protection. They might give you a false impression of safety. Lastly, you absolutely need to have some calcium gluconate gel in case of exposure. You can find alot of safety documentation about manipulating HF on the internet.
Keep up the good work! (safely)
+supersmashsam It was so creepy to watch those short gloves and the shirt plus the way Ben handled the stuff with two hands in the air. Ben: please be aware that people copy you, so be a good example.
I was surprised the first time I saw Whink Rust Stain Remover on the shelf at Wal-Mart (also at Home Depot). It's in a brown plastic bottle. Label and cautions says it contains hydrofluoric acid! The SDS for it says it contains between 1.5 - 3.5% hydrofluoric acid. I carefully set it back on the shelf and decided I'd rather have the rust stains then buy that product.
Instructions Clear Enough. Successfully choosed right cleaning solution. Thank you.
Chose
This is one of the most usefull videos i have found on youtube.
And it is something that anybody who tinkers in the garage can use.
As a follow up video, i would like to hear more about surface prep for gluing and painting, and the differences between sanding, blasting, etching etc, or just leaving the surface degreased.
+claus christensen Thanks! I realized this was already a long video, but initially thought about covering sandblasting and other mechanical cleaning methods. Good topics for future videos.
+Applied Science To long? I dont think any of your videos suffer from that problem :-)
I have used lye to clean and degrease steel parts before bluing, and that seemed to work quite well. Is that viable, or did i just get lucky?
+Applied Science If you made a 3 hour video, I would watch it. Great stuff Ben, as usual!
+Applied Science With all that liquid squirting I kept hoping I'd see a laminar flow ultrasonic cleaner that transmits the ultrasonic vibrations the length of the laminar stream to the surface to be ultrasonically cleaned. A mechanical cleaning method video with something like this would be ace.
+mikeissweet +Applied Science DITTO!! Very interesting, can't wait for the next video.
Hi Ben, great video. My honours supervisor had to get his little finger amputated as he discovered a small burn after working with a bunch of acids, including HF, one day, and it was the only way to be sure that his bones would not dissolve out from under him in case it was the HF.
Oh! I've seen this movie, too. The story had a little problem with reality/science and was too much of a horror-movie stereotype, I guess.
See "A review of hydrofluoric acid burn management - PMC", by National Institutes of Health (.gov). What you describe is not how acids and acid-burns work at all.
I mean, losing a finger to amputation (which is the treating physician's decision and can save lives, as with burns) is bad enough and I feel sorry for your friend. But then why invent such impossible stories? That sounds like it's coming straight from a goat-herder in the Bible trying to imagine how a snake bite would function/its consequences.
It was just ridiculous back then, and today such "dissolving bones" BS isn't better ...
@@dieSpinntI mean they could just perform a test to detect if the acid was there lol
Marks from metal on porcelain or ceramic come off nicely with oxalic acid as well (e.g. Barkeeper's Friend). I've never tried it with titanium, but it's quite effective with marks from aluminum, iron, copper, and chromium, which is all you're likely to encounter in a kitchen anyway. It might be a little slower than hydrofluoric acid, but it's quite a bit easier to come by.
Toilet bowl cleaner works also.
Old plumbing snakes (before composites were used) would leave metal behind on toilet bowl porcelain when snaking a toilet. Scrub all you want and they dont come off.
Toilet bowl cleaner would take them right off with a single wipe.
thanks for the link to Dan Gelbart, I spent my day watching everything, I was blown from the introduction to the end!
Great video, Ben. Two points. Piranha Solution typically has sulfuric acid NOT hydrofluoric acid. I've never heard of Piranha solution being described as "a strong acid with hydrogen peroxide", but live and learn. Second point. I noticed the pipette you used to transfer the hydrofluoric acid. It was in your right hand as you pointed to a bottle label; the tip was being held over the edge of the table. If you were standing, your legs might have been at risk of hydrofluoric acid dripping out. Not the best safety practice. BTW, I hope you have some Calcium Gluconate gel/solution handy when working with this acid. topical application should be the second step, after you flood the area with water. ;)
thanks for showing the water test. I will use that a lot.
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honestly, I'd love to see more cleaning videos. Chemical polishing metal, removing heavy water deposits and everything
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This was very interesting... I would like to see more of the science of how common household cleaners work, why they work and how to best use them... Thanks
This style of video is extremely helpful and I would love more of them for adhesives, materials, gasses etc
I watched this video years ago, learned a few things, and clicked the like button. I watched it again today, having more knowledge of chemistry than I did years ago, and I understood your theoretical explanations much more completely. I wish I could click the like button a second time...
This video is one of the most helpful tutorials I have ever found. It made all the difference with some of our electro plating issues, as well as powder coating and painting issues.
"Let's make this simple cleaning solution by mixing water, peroxide, and hydroflouric acid"
reminded me of
"Thinking quickly, he created a homemade loudpeaker out of a squirrel, some string, and a loudspeaker"
I was like "Yeah, let's just throw some fucking hydrofouric acid in there, that'll clean it up real good"
+Khandnalie Yeah I was like "water" - ok got that, "H2O2" - ok can get that, "HF" - WTF??
+whuzzzup Yup, I was more like, "water" ok. "H2O2" ok. "Don't use the weak stuff" Wrong, can use it, just more of it and less water. "HF" - You have got to be kidding.
Don't forget the great solvent: Eg, elbonium greasium.
Unfortunately millennials banned using it.
I M F A Oooooooooo
Yes please more on cleaning. Its a topic with not enough literature on it.
and.. Dan Gelbart is awesome, but he made only those 18 videos in 2012 and stopped. I recently left him a massage to please continue the classes.
That's how I know I've done a good job scrubbing the dishes, the water coats the entire plate/pan in a layer rather than beading up. I also work at car dealerships taking photographs of the new vehicles, it's always interesting to see perfect and new glass that's so clean the water creates a huge flat sheet on the surface. Typically you think of a "CLEAN" windshield as one that beads up with the likes of rain-x or aquapel, but really that's not the case.
Kind of expected you to dish out the HF, still lost it. Love your channel so much.
This is just about the most informative video I may have watched in the last 2 years. Thanks!
+Dan Gelbart TH-cam channel is fantastic, thanks for the link Ben!
I'd love to see a follow up on acidic and basic cleaners as well!
you sir should make a late night infomercial for your super secret cleaning solution. its like oxi-clean but better. it might melt your face off, but that was cool
Melt your face? dissolve your bones...
+Albion Laster Well HF can (will) also kill you if you get enough on your skin. Read the wiki article.
This is one of the very few things where "don't try this at home" would actually be a reasonable advice.
We hate it to do. It was great to hear that. It was great to hear that But, . It
But wait... there's more!!
_Here, let me just demonstrate how hard it is to clean this by marking it with titanium_
Ok, so you just have a titanium rod lying around? Ok then.
+LazerLord10 Dont you?
Stefan Gotteswinter
Unfortunately not.
+Stefan Gotteswinter I do...
+LazerLord10 Not to mention the concentrated hydrofluoric acid. Effective but not exactly a household chemical.
+LazerLord10 do you not?
Ben, I was a Security Guard at an electronics assembly plant in Oregon. I also have an AA in EE. They had this really awesome cleaning tank. It was full of TriCloralFloralEthalane.(sp?) Similar to what you demonstrated with the vapor cleaning. This 3x3x2 box had a heater on the bottom of the stainless steel tank. Near the top opening were some aluminum tubing, three loops. These were cooling tubes. I figure the entire unit was a heat pump. Condenser on one side(bottom), Evaporator coil on the top. You could visually see the vapor boil up then be attracted by the cooling coils. Dripping liquid back into the tank. Keeping the vapor contained within the unit. To clean a PCB they would dip it into the vapor.
I love this video! I had to download it. Cleaning glassware correctly is extremely important and it’s all thanks to this video that I’ve managed to meet a high standard level of cleaning.
I have a commercial cleaning business, and this is very helpful.
Wow, I learned more about cleaning in your 22 minutes than I have picked up in my entire life.
Probably not going to use this as I rarely have to clean things that are that tough, but I learned a lot of chemistry by watching this. Cheers.
Sweet! I agree the bowl scratch could have been it's own topic. And spinning of that :
I would love more cleaning of metals and metal oxides. I've learned that oxalic acid can be used to clean iron oxide, without destroying underlying surface. For example, rusting nail on wood facade. Or small rust deposits on the car after driving around during a winter in Sweden.
I've tried use this method to clean stainless heat exchanges from iron oxide deposits but mixed results.
I would love a video about how to maintain your own house hydronic heating. Cleaning heating radiators from deposits (magnetite?). Make tap-water less reactive when doing work on your heating in household. How to clean aluminium heat exchanges (water - air). And copper oxide.. There is alot about metals :)
Great work! Thanks!!
The most stubborn stain I ever saw was lithium grease. I got it on a T-shirt working in a factory about seven years ago. It's been through the washing machine hundreds of times, and there are still these huge gray blotches on it. If I remember correctly, lithium grease is just a lithium soap, but I've yet to find a detergent that can touch it. Maybe the lithium's diffused into the fibers or something.
Either way, I loved the video. It's not hollow praise when I say that I'm impressed how you can make a video about solvents captivating. Cheers!
Hey Ben! Thanks for yet an other great video. Piranah solution is usually made with sulfuric acid and hydrogen peroxide, but I guess hydrochlroic will do the job aswell. It really is super nasty stuff though, and you should always make sure the part is very clean first. I would also like to give a shoutout to ultrasonic baths for cleaning, they can really work wonders.
A great method for cleaning metal with burned in stuff from ion-sources etc. is using a abrasive like titania or alumina with alcohol or water :)
Excellent video. I am a little surprised that you did not go over the cleaning power of concentrated nitric or sulfuric acid.
Really solid informative video.
You need more real world dirty stuff !
surfactants, chelating, media blasting, electrolysis. There's so many ways to clean stuff.
Also I think building some closed loop cleaning apparatus would be popular, maybe a spray wash cabinet that re-filters (distill even ?) it's cleaners, we love watching you build stuff !
"To clean off metal marks, use these common chemicals, and also a dab of lab-grade highly toxic HydroFluoric acid and that shit'll come right off!"
What happened to good ol' Lye infused foaming petroleum spray? Aka Oven cleaner? yummmmmy
Those Dan Gelbart videos are great. Thanks for the cleaning tips.
Cool video man! I love that you explain stuff in a simple but in-depth way so that people like me can grasp much more easily. I have a suggestion for a video: Dissolving certain elements with acids and explain whats going on.
I love learning about science in practical, real-world uses; especially since all the different cleaning chemicals and products confused me! Thanks!
I saw a video just a few weeks back, where a company does outdoor car/boat cleaning, using pulverised dry ice & compressed air, which did an amazing job on a rusted car body - ready for undercoat... "Cold Jet" on the National Geographic channel.
Out here we have very hard water, and it deposits on all surfaces. A simple mix of Sulfuric acid and water removes the minerals. If some particles remain they are much easier to wipe away after treatment.
Most laboratory's use this formula to clean their equipment, and it's effective for grease as well as minerals.
I also use this as paint prep for steel, most of my chains have been painted to keep them clean, and a soak in diluted sulfuric and water eats rust away in short order.
one of the first things we learned in lab was that when you clean benches to disinfect them you cant use pure ethanol, you have to add water so the solution can actually get into the 'bug's cell membrane and then it will kill them, pure ethanol wont penetrate their cell walls. That always amazed me as you'd think pure ethanol would kill anything lol. Anyway, great video again mate.
And here I always thought the stronger it smelled the better it cleaned.Great info!
+Nick Moore That's usually true -- especially for adhesives and paints as well as cleaners!
One of the more useful experiments that I did in high school chemistry actually did not involve a chemical reaction. It was all about cleaning the glassware.
We started with a KMnO4 solution that we used to sully the inside of two test tubes.
The next step was to clean them.
#1 tube was cleaned with 50 ml of water. It was given two 25 ml baths.
#2 test tube was cleaned with only 30 ml of water. It was given three 10 ml baths.
Which technique was more effective, and why?
(It turned out that technique #2 worked better.)
(Using potassium permanginate was all sciency and geeky, but I'm sure that food coloring will work as well.)
One Interesting method of cleaning is with an ultrasonic cleaner. This might make a interesting video if you make this a two part series on cleaning. For painting prep, Hardware stores sell "Prep and Etch" which contains phosphoric acid, which leaves clean surface suitable for paint to bond to for metals. The Solvent vapor method was very interesting!
Another possible video is metal corrosion protection: plating (Zinc, Nickel), anodizing (aluminium), passivating (stainless), black oxide (steel), molten nitrate salt, paint, and powder coating. As well as sacraficial anodes, and cathodic protection.
Well I think it may be true that the acetone dilutes the greases and when drying they are deposited back in microlayer, but many paints have some solvents inside as well, therefore they dilute the remaining microlayer, bond and the greases are deposited evenly through the paint layer when drying, which we don't mind.
It would be interesting to actually make the flake test of the bleach-cleaned and acetone cleaned painted part.
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but this is an excellent video. One of your best IMHO. The science of cleaning is fascinating. You should do one about soaps and their mechanism too.
From all youtube videos you are 100% spot on in what you do and say thank you very much
Super excited to see a video from you. I've seen every one and have been checking back every couple days. Great video!
A most informative video, thank you for making these.
as someone who is getting into airbrushing/automotive painting this was some great info thanks!
Man I love your videos, there's a lot of good information and the way you present it is really nice!
As much as I would love to see you put out videos more frequently, the quality of what you put out is really great!
+svampebob007 Thanks!
This is probably the most convincing Comet advertisement I've ever seen :D
This is a great video, but there is so much more which I don't fully understand, for example surfactants and saponification.
I always felt the branded cleaning products have taken away much of our understanding of cleaning.
I've watched this three times over the past two years. At least. Thanks!
That solvent-vapor-cleaning method is very nifty and elegant. I keep waiting for an opportunity to use it, but so far, I haven't had one.
This is the best cleaning chemicals video I have ever seen. :)
I love and learn so much for your videos.
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We sell SSD Chemical Solution used to clean all type of blackened, tainted and defaced bank notes. Our technicians are highly qualified and are always ready to handle the cleaning perfectly. Our Chemical is 100% pure. We clean all currencies like the Euro, USD, GBP and many other currencies. Please do contact us for more information so that we can better serve you. Also available are .S. S. D. Automatic Solution, Castro X Oxide, A5., Activation Powder, Vectrol Paste 003, Tebi-Matonic,, TtzUNIVERSAL Solution, Zuta S4, Ks Solution, Ogl Magic. AUSTIN SSD CHEMICAL is a multi-program international laboratory operated by worldwide Science Associates for the U.S. Department of Currency (DOC). AUSTIN SSD CHEMICAL has well over 750 working scientists, engineers, technicians and support staff and over 120 guest researchers annually. Please contact us to discuss how we might
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Ha! I knew you got that soap trick from Dan Gelbart. That guy is amazing. His lathe is epic.
this video was way more interesting than I expected!
We use the C02 cleaner at work, to blast bits of metal out of the things that we laser cut. It cleans and is slightly abrasive so that it can get the slugs out of the cuts.
Could do an episode on surfactants? Most pharma cleaning relies on a series of different surfactants layered in a cleaning process to fully clean vessels and piping and then a process to clean the surfactants since surfactants are reactive and are just another source of contamination. The use of surfactants of different pHs reduces the dependency on solvents so handling at scale is safer and more environmentally friendly. I thought of this when you introduced Acetone something that is both polar and non-polar which also describes soap.
Comet cleanser is good but I like a similar product called Bartenders Friend. I use it on the mirror of my 60" carbon arc searchlight which is coated with rhodium. I love your channel. Always interesting and informative .
This is so helpful!! What I'd like to see is what would be the best cleaner for electronics, for when you need absolute clean, like when measuring pico & femto amps...
Your videos are so awesome and make the unusual so interesting.
That was awesome. If you do more, I'd love to see your take on cleaning aluminum for welding.
Ben, in the last part with the "Piranha" you said you can't use regular drug store peroxide (3%) but couldn't you use it if you just changed the ratio of plain water to peroxide? In your mix you have 1/12 18% peroxide, shouldn't that be the same as 6/12 3% peroxide?
+Nick Horvath That's exaclty what I was thinking: if you use 1 part of 18% H2O2 and 10 parts of water, you effectively have 11 parts of 1.8% H2O2!
the problem is that most 3% solutions sold in stores have stabilizers that diminish the effectiveness of the piranha solution
caleb archambault you just need more piranha solution, Caro's acid should destroy any stabilizer
But what amount of HF would you then add??
Man, I hear 2 - 3 new and interesting facts in every sentence. Your videos are amazing! It's like applied TEDtalks, lets call it TEDdo's
Great video as always. I can't help but think of 1950's household cleaning commercials... Try B&W with some old TV artifacts...
This was an amazing video!
I was really hoping you'd dive into some of the common cleaners we use for daily use. The comet along with adjoining explanation was mind blowing, because now I understand a bit about what it's doing, and when to use it! I was really hoping you'd touch on the windex and bleach that were sitting on the bench too. Maybe an accompanying video?
+ThePolysyllabist Thanks! Yes, the video was already getting much longer than my usual target, so a bunch of topics will have to wait until next time. I do like the idea of talking about the ingredients in common household cleaners.
Hi I just came to your Chantal front nighthawk in light and I am really impressed awesome video
There's another commonly available cleaner called Barkeepers Friend which contains abrasives, surfactant, and oxalic acid. I have found that it can often remove marks that Comet cannot, though I don't happen to have any titanium forks to try that.
Great Video, can't wait to see more on cleaning supplies and I'm not being sarcastic. Really loved the video.
Please please please make a follow up video
Including of the possibilities to prevent flash rust on prepped metal parts. I do a lot of restoration work and the “comet” cleaning method has worked well for me. I pressure wash afterwords with a high heat high pressure machine. But sometimes I struggle with flash rust. Even with high pressurized air drying… Under heated conditions… No matter how fast I dry parts some of them just seem to hold a bit of moisture which can cause flash rust. Sometimes I even use a clean burning torch to quickly boil out the moisture from some of the more texturize rust pits.....even If not visible, I’m afraid it hurts paint adhesion.
Would also love your input (or complete video😁) dedicated to paint prep and painting with only available materials from local hardware/automotive stores. It’s becoming easier to get professional quality, very tough, and wear resistant coatings with careful paint prep and locally store-bought materials. It’s not easy, and requires a few weird tricks… Like heating the part before painting, and cooking afterwards.... Kind of like tempering or normalizing steel suppose. Don’t get me wrong… I love my spray booth, fancy guns, and high dollar chemicals and coatings… But sometimes it’s fun to see what results can be had from careful preparation and easily available store bought materials. also I hope my experimentations and knowledge can help other folks… Who have a project in mind but don’t have $10,000 for a professional spraying set up.
I have referred back to this video so many times over the past three years. I’ve spent the better part of 20 years doing restoration work. Small things like hand planes,up to giant metal lathes and mills. Everything from media blasting, powder coating, eanodizing all types of paint, surface prep, and other shenanigans. I always spend 90% of my time on part prep cleanliness… Helps make up for my llacking paints skillsLOL.
I have been lucky to acquire all forms of equipment, and have tried everything from large scale ultrasonic cleaning, all types of electrolysis, wet/dry tumbling, steam cleaning using solvents,, allkinds of weird things. Even did wild experiments submerging parts in vacuum chamber in some form of solvent or cleaning solution. Pull a vacuum for a long time and it seems to almost boil off all contaminants… While penetrating any rust or porous material with cleaning solution. II imagine when the foreign substances are penetrated… It weakens them greatly and breaks their adhesion to the part. Follow that process with a thorough pressure washing… And it has proved fairly useful. Obviously just an experimental process. But interesting.
Thanks so much for your time and commitment to your channel and the TH-cam community. Even with years of experience, failure, and lessons learned Your videos are a wealth of knowledge and new viewpoints. Your time and effort is greatly appreciated by Folks like me.
Stuff like this should be taught in every intro chemistry class.
This is a great video, learned what polar and non polar means now.
I have used sulfamic acid to clean steel marks off of porcelain tile. Usually from a plumber dragging his torch tanks across a floor.
Hey ben, it was not liquid CO2 blasting a surface, but a high pressure air stream feeding very small chips of CO2 that instantly evaporate when they hit the surface, blasting the dirt off but not dealing damage.
I hope to see more videos on cleaning. I would love to learn about glass cleaner and brake cleaner.
depending on the construction of that bowl, there is possibly a glaze on top of it, which to my understanding is essentially just a glass, which would happen to still be harder than most metals
Dry CO2 cleaning guns do not dissolve actually.
They are just like sandblasting, but not abrasive couse dry CO2 is very soft.
Cooled contamination shrinks and decrease it's bond to the surface.
And there is no liquid phase at all, dry particles of a few um size instantly turn into a gas when heated. Their volume then rapidly increases ~500 times, witch in turn helps to remove contamination.
So basically it's a sum of 3 principles: high speed (up to 300m/s) kinetic blasting + rapid cooling/shrinking + rapid gas expansion
Lot of companies make CO2 Ice blasters, including big ones like Kercher.
+MrDehicka Thanks for the infos. I think you made a typo it is Kärcher.
+MrDehicka Thanks for the infos. I think you made a typo it is Kärcher.
I never knew cleaning stuff could be so interesting.
Why do I love this channel? Oh yeah I'm a nerd lol. But seriously I'm restoring a BOWIE hunting knife handle. I tried electronics contact cleaner, isopropyl alcohol ( high content) wax and grease remover. I used citric acid. Rinsed in distilled water then soak in soda bicarbonate. I want to electroplate the handle. I made all my solutions. I've done a few items and worked perfectly! But this knife handle? Oh man.
Now how do you get rid of the hydrofluoric acid residue off the food bowl?
+insanegammer109 Water? It's not even remotely dangerous _in trace amounts_ in any case.
+insanegammer109 Eat some cheerios.
HF is a gas, just heat the bowl
use your noodle that's in your cranium there. how *DO* you kill an acid? BAKING SODA! no?
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Brake cleaner, bleach, Windex, acetone, somebody is making chicken McNuggets. :P
Great job again.important subjects like this are not to common to find.burnt it to dvd....
I got titanium marks on a bowl when I used my lightweight camping cutlery at home - now I know why I can't clean it off.
my old company makes dry ice blasterers. it uses what they call high density dry ice. it's approximately 3.3 mm in diameter. and shoots out about 200 psi. similar to sand blasting. but the neat thing is. the media sublimates and all that is left is the stuff removed.
Only you could make a video about cleaning stuff so interesting.
Very nice video.just learning chemistry.refreshed the polar/non polar with me.very useful video.
The last one is interesting to me because I've used hydrogen peroxide and hydochloric acid to etch copper before; that's very similar.
This answered a lot of questions I was curious and had intuitions about. Thanks
Awesome and useful video! You might want to not store that HF mixture in a glass container. It will eat through the container for the same reason it will eat through the TiO2. Also, the fluoride ion is extremely mobile when it is not in a buffered solution (passes right through a layer of photoresist like it is hardly there) so I would NOT use regular gloves that are not rated for acid resistance when wiping down things with piranha. I work in a cleanroom and just want to keep you safe so I can watch more of your videos! ;)
Wow did not know there was science associated with this....at least never taught about it. Thanks for this great video.
Here I am on a Friday night finding this much more interesting than anything on TV.
Wow really great video. Very informative and detailed. Thanks for posting!
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