3D Printing & Machining a New Lid for Calibration Weight Case
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2023
- STL's and links @ fpfdesigns.com/
Hot Air Rework Station: amzn.to/3ITG1iX
Scale Calibration Weights: amzn.to/3MG4hGj
Green PLA: amzn.to/3BZxyH6
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
Other music used is "Rollerdrome 1994" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Rollerdrome 1994 (Alte...
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
functional
print
PLA
calibrate
milling
machine
endmill
plastic
dividing head - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I'm really good at ignoring instructions FPF. 😂 Your problem solving effort is very educational. Thank you!
thx again for your suggestion
Turned out really nice 👍
thx!
Good to see old fashion look at the problem alter redo till fixed. 3D printers have changed our process of engineering parts for our work space. There use to porotype a part has saved many hours and money amazing bit of kit for the shop.
I prototype almost everything in plastic first now, even if I know the plan is to mill it in aluminum. It's so fast, and so cheap. I don't understand why it's not more commonplace in "real" machine shops.
I used to be anti adhesive on my bed and would have mostly good success with a first layer failure here and there. I was determined to make it work without anything. Adhesion issues became more frequent. Eventually, I gave in and started using a glue stick and had good success with it. Anymore, I always add some sort of adhesive to the bed and rarely have a first layer issue. I also did the nylon nut modification for the Mk3 bed and spent some time aligning the bed. I know the PINDA probe is supposed to compensate for variance but it seems to me that the less the printer needs to compensate the better the print will be overall.
The lettering is coming out like that because the inside of the lettering is causing a bridge/overhang (not connected to a previous layer or build plate). The underside of bridging layers will never be the best unfortunately.
To improve it though without changing much:
- On the first layer just above the lettering when it's doing the overhangs slow your print speed down and reduce temps ever so slightly, will print the bridging layers better and not droop as much. Some slicers do this automatically, look for bridging speed.
Other options I'd consider is:
- Slice the inside of the lettering in one model, print it with a different colour, then leave that print on bed. Slice and print the rest of the lid in a different colour making sure to add Z hop when slicing at a height just above the height of the first lettering print you did. This ensures that the nozzle doesn't hit the letters when travelling. You will get nice embedded and clean text.
- Print letters separately (will probably need to edit your model and add an offset to the text. 0.1-0.2mm usually does it. Glue them in.
Was painful watching you do that side knurl in sketckup lol. In other CAD programs you do it once, then revolve the 'feature' 360 degrees from the center axis.
I bought the Bambu X1C specifically to not have to deal with problems you had with this print. Textured PEI plate, default smooth plate, whatever. It "just works" and I'm printing so much more as a result.
You can put something like a rag or anything that will not make indentations in there and itl make it much easier to cut.
I only print on textured PEI and my first layer is always 0.1 thick and the print-profiles(cura and flsun V400) are tweaked with this in mind.
Found that that with a delta the thicker your first layer is the more room for errors and inconsistencies you have so tried for a while to tweak thicker first-layers but even after increasing the number of points on the bed-mesh from 7x7 to9x9(which solved the first-layer issues I was having) I found that 0,1 was simply the better option.
I do get a perfect textured surface but a less than perfect first-layer that is only 0.1 thick is lot less critical and more fixable with sanding without changing dimension than a thicker first-layer, and me only doing functional prints is why I didn't bother trying for thicker first layers(still use glue-stick though since there is no reason to not have better adhesion as long as the print is still removable).
Regular router-bits work great in a milling machine with plastics and softer materials and even work for alu and mild steel with light cuts and lubrication(so much so that I use them quite a bit...)...........
Thx for the tip on the router bits! I've got a whole drawer full that get used pretty rarely.
Instead of changing first layer extrusion, try changing the intitial layer z-offset. Teaching tech has a good video on z-offset calibration (i think its his bed leveling guide). You could also increase the initial layer print temperature if you want less visible first layer print lines, or decrease first layer temp if you want less ooze into the texture. Also, you could turn on ironing for the first layer to even it out begore the second layer prints.
Thanks for your comment and suggestion. The only thing I was changing was the live-Z (z-offset), which leads to under or over-extrusion for the first layer. I realized when editing it and hearing myself talk that it really sounded like I was talking about actually changing the flow for the whole print, which is really confusing. Apologies for not being more clear. For new sheets, I usually adjust the live-Z until I like it, then adjust the z-offset in the slicer, and set the Live-Z back to previous setting. I rarely print on the textured sheets. I loved the look of the deep texture from the initial print and was trying to duplicate it, but it's soo much harder to tune a good first layer vs. the smooth sheets, which feel like "easy mode" in comparison.
Did you need the skirt? I print on a mirror bed, and for a print that size/surface I don't need to use extra adhesion
Yes, I generally don't, but with the ribbed sides and bevel, it really seemed to want to lift at the right front edge. Enclosure may have solved it.
Nice work! Although why not add the chamfer in as part of the design instead of post process?
Great question. There's a chamfer in the design, but I essentially "lost" it when I added the skirt to keep the part down. If I removed the chamfer, it might have actually solved the adhesion problem, but sometimes I guess you can't have your cake and eat it too :)
I preffer inward "extruded" lettering instead of outward it preffents the outside lettering from being damages or cathcing on stuff. I can also fill it with paint if i wanted it.
The current beta version of PrusaSlicer supports adding the text in the slicer. Because of open-source, it's only a matter of time before the text tool shows up in other Slic3r based slicers, and probably even Cura. (Thank you to Cura for developing the Arachne perimeter engine that I now use in PrusaSlicer.)
I actually considered trying the beta version of PrusaSlicer for this print (I use simplify3d now), but it felt like cheating since it wouldn't be in the STL to share (or can you export it?)
Have filled the "inward" letters before with white caulk with great success, but for some reason raised just felt like the right direction on this one.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday You can export as STL from PrusaSlicer. I've done that to export parts that I've cut off a larger piece to reincorporate into the larger piece multiple times. As I recall, I was extending the length of something, and I hadn't learned enough about modifying meshes in my CAD package of choice.
Just get some Aqua Net (unscented extra super hold). It's easier to apply than gluestick, easier to clean up, and works just as well for most things.
I'll have to give this a try. Are you using this on the PEI textured sheets specifically, or do you just mean in general?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I've only used it on textured glass and currently on smooth Garolilite, but it's probably worth a shot. Its pretty cheap. I've also had good results with a 50/50 mixture o PVA glue and isopropyl alcohol when I really need things to stick.
TH-cam appears to be taking forever to process the video up to 1080. Apologies if you're seeing the potato-version.
It's no worse than 4am GOMTV Broodwar streams from 2005 and I watched those, actually it's quite a bit clearer.
@@TrueIronhorn lol
I hate PLA on textured so much I flipped it over and printed fine on the uncovered side until I got another surface.
lol
I had similar problems with trickier prints on my cheap ass ender 3. Nothing that i could would fix my first few layers. Then, I just rage quited and simply disassembled the entire machine and reassembled it. Worlds better. Is it possible that your printer isn't enterily square?
Nice seeing someone use a mill on a 3d print and it working, I will keep that knoledge and use it somehow haha
Thx for the suggestion. It's square, and the prusa's will actually go through a calibration to correct for being out of square as well.
While SketchUp worked, I think you’d been done sooner with Fusion 360. I know it does text on a curve, as well as pattern around a circle. I like it much better.
I have it and do sometimes use it, but it's tough to make the switch. I learned sketchup pretty early on before fusion was available, and my 3-d design brain thinks in the sketchup toolset. I really need to take the time to properly learn fusion360 or onshape.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday i started learning making 3d models in Fusion 360, and it does make it easy to make complex things fast once you learn the toolset!
I haven't finished the video yet so I'm not sure how this will work (I paused as you were moving the workpiece on the dividing head under the spindle). But, when you said "... get the tripod moved...", I heard it as "get the try-pod moved". 😂
Ok, just finished the video. Excellent results. I'm going to use your technique with the hot air rework station as an excuse to get one to support both of my hobbies (I don't do enough SMT work in electronics to justify a hot air rework station, but using one on two hobbies might be all the justification I need.)
I agree that the ribbed lid sides looks better than the knurls. Maybe I've been lucky, but what works for me on textured printing surfaces is the same thing I do for smooth surfaces. Once I've dialed in my extrusion multiplier on a vase mode print, I print a single layer rectangle with the bottom infill at 45° to the rectangle shape, changing my live Z height along the print. Then once cool and peeled off the build plate, I inspect the different Z-height swatches and measure them. The smoothest swatches (no gaps or ridges) that is closest to my printed layer height (usually 0.2mm) is the live z-height that I use.
For your application, I agree that the text on the side looks really good and is probably the correct solution for your application. But, back to the text on top layer. Because my printer supports M600 color changes, I've found using M600 as a "Manual MMU" technique works really well, and I use it often. I even have a printer profile set up in my slicer just for this. Though I usually have any text or other colored features 2-3 layers thick to avoid translucency bleed-through.
FWIW, my printer is a Prusa Mk3S+ and I use PrusaSlicer. YMMV with other printers and slicers.
Thx! you won't regret the hot air rework station. I linked the one I have in the video description. I wasn't expecting much for the price paid, but very happy with it.
I think I know why you are having issues, the first under extruded layer was actually not under extruded at all, the problem it's that the first layer height was too high, I get that you may be wanting to avoid the elephants foot but when 3d printing that's basically unavoidable, the only way you could avoid would be to have a raft sacrificing the surface finish or by creating a 2 part lid, one with a raft, one thin finished cover, and then gluing them together
Thanks, yeh, I was struggling with trying to duplicate the textured look of the first print, but with the wrong sheet (and not realizing it). I'm pretty sure the very first print was very close to the correct z-height, but either way the adhesion is garbage on that sheet in comparison to the smooth PEI sheet.
Oh, you poor bastard. You're doing this in Sketchup? My sympathies.
Don't feel bad for me, it's self-inflicted! I have fusion 360 and have been looking at onshape, but my 3-d design brain "thinks" in the sketchup toolset, and I really need to just cut myself off :)
I usually just print without lettering and then laser engrave the letters. Thank you for the great video!
I recently purchased some precision flat-ground stones from kinetic precision and they ship in 3-d printed trays with laser engraving. Was the first time I'd seen the result in person, and instantly thought "dang, now I need a laser engraver". How much do you use yours, and what one do you have?
@@FunctionalPrintFriday For PLA prints, a diode laser would work. I use an Ortur laser master on my sla and pla prints. With some dialing it, it has been a pretty great.
trim router
Are you suggesting a trim router for the chamfer on the PLA? I'm fairly certain this would melt the material, but if you have had success with it, I'd love to hear about it.
I'm so sorry to tell you this, but the raised lettering you spent so much effort on.. if you had left the faceplate blank, you could just have used the latest Prusa Slicer to add the text in the slicer instead.. way faster, way smoother and intuitive!
But what's the fun in that? :) I had considered it, but wanted to see if I could do it with the method I had in mind. It worked, but was definitely time-consuming.