I'm using this video for the 3rd time in 3 years. The first Denso rebuilt alternator had a catastrophic failure 20 months after install. The 2nd Bosch rebuilt has a 100mA battery drain (short); finally diagnosed it after 11 months. I hope this 3rd Bosch alternator doesn't have a problem. The serpentine belt tensioner tool can't be stressed enough as to how much easier it makes the belt install; very narrow work area. I could also nudge the tensioner out of the way when installing/removing the alternator as it gave more space to pull it out. I never had to deal with removing the radiator bolts. Also, using the the zip tie on the upper bolt hole of the alternator to make a handle to guide the lower bolt in position made the job a ton easier. Thanks again for this awesome video. Just wished I didn't have to do this work frequently
This video was fantastic and a lifesaver for me. I NEVER changed out an alternator before. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Excellent descriptions and video. I appreciate your hard work. I have a 2011 Hondah Odyssey. The ONLY recommendation I have for anyone following these Excellent instructions is this: When it comes time to install the new alternator, check the width of the old alternator where it fits in the bracket. My new alternator had a piece that made it just under 1/8th of an inch wider. I put it on a grinder. It fit after that. Thanks for all your work.
Best car fixing video on TH-cam bar none, and I have watched a lot! Awesome instructions, well put together, great diagrams. Thanks so much!!. Saved me a fortune over dealer prices. One addition, I found I had to use the belt tool to push the tensioner out of the way to get clearance to get the alternator in and out. Thanks again!
Just got the alternator out in less than 30 minutes thanks to your video. Great job on explaining and breaking the steps down to remove so simple.thank you.
Great walk through! I was doubting that thing would come out of there, right up until it did, lol. I'm 6'1" so I put my Odyssey up on my ramps to save my back and that worked great. Also I used a short 1/2" socket extension to plug the PS line and put the clamp back over it. Probably took me an honest 4 hrs from set up to cleaned up. Thanks, you saved me some time & money
Glad the install went well. Appreciate the superthanks. By the way, if you don't already know this, keep an eye on your spool valve and front cover valve gasket for small oil leaks as that is often what fails up the alternator which is just right below.
I am not naturally mechanically inclined for this type of stuff. But for some reason, the detail of your video gave me the confidence to try this on my own. Saved between $600-750 dollars. Thank you so much for this video!!
That's why I filmed it. I've never changed an alternator before and was a bit frustrated at the lack of complete tutorials (at the time of publishing it) for the 2011-2017 Odyssey... so I thought I'd film it and if successful, post it online.
If you keep having alternators go bad, there's a decent chance. The front valve cover gasket is leaking or your spool valve is leaking. Check those out as they might save you down the line from having to replace it a third time😅
Thank you so much! Honda charges more than $700 just for the alternator. I didn't ask about the labor but it's probably more than $500.. You, my friend, saved me a few hundred bucks! It was easy to follow your instructions - please keep up the good work! Thank you thank you!
Great video. The last time I did this repair on my 2012 Odyssey (40K miles ago, don't ask) I removed the alternator through the front and had to drain some coolant, remove the top radiator hose, remove the cooling fans, and loosened both the radiator and condenser in their mounts. The approach in this video is easier and faster. I have 4 suggestions/comments. 1) This video doesn't actually show the alternator come out of the mount so I can't say if this was done, but I had to adjust the tensioner pulley (against the spring pressure) to make room to remove the alternator. 2) To save a little time, it is not necessary to fully remove the coolant reservoir mount, it only needs to be loosened enough to rotate out of the way. this saves both disassembly and reassembly time and avoids any mounting location issues during reassembly. 3) You can get the coolant reservoir completely out of the way by unclipping the hose from the fan shroud (3 places). this will allow you to move it, without disconnecting it, to the driver's side of the engine bay. 4) Completer remove the power steering reservoir from the engine bay, this gives more room to maneuver and eliminates the chance of PS fluid spillage during the repair. After removing the supply (larger) hose as the video shows, the fluid can be poured out through that hose into a mason jar and saved until after reinstallation.. Then just disconnect the return hose (smaller hose) and set the reservoir aside (outside the engine bay). Add the old or new PS fluid after everything in reinstalled at the end. Also, since PS fluid will destroy an alternator so it also helps avoid getting any on the new alternator.
This is one of the best tutorials I've even seen/used. The details and specific schematics really helped. Also, I second the suggestion on the serpentine belt removal tool. That made it a breeze. Thanks so much.
Remember, the alternator bolt torque is 16ft/lbs for the two on top, and 33 ft lbs for the bottom bolt. I also routed my (new) serpentine belt over everything except the lower smooth pulley (idler?). When I cranked on the tensioner, I slipped that one on. I also used a 1/2" extension to plug the PS hose, it worked.
Thank you for the instructions. My alternator was smoking so much I was afraid to drive the car to the dealer. This video saved the day! BTW, I had to hammer the bushings on both the new alternator as well as mount side for clearance.
Thank You big time for taking the time to record, narrate, and edit this awesome video. This video was very instrumental in helping me change my alternator for my 2013 odyssey touring. I was successful in doing this on my own the very first time. Saved me good amount of money. Thank you, thank you and thank you again!!!
Just did this on my 2011 Pilot. Saved $300 in labor. Thanks! A few time/labor savers: 1. Don't remove the air-intake or trim piece in the front. Absolutely no need. 2. Don't remove the radiator brackets. No need. 3. DON'T disconnect the power steering hose. There's (barely) enough room to get the alt out/back in. Skip the messy waste of time. 4. Don't remove the alternator bracket until it's out of the car. This gives you another handle to remove it, and it's easier to get it off/back on the new one when it's out. 5. Some vids suggest removing the belt tensioner (not this one). Don't. 6. Some say get a special tool belt tensioner tool to remove the tension from the serpentine belt. It does make it easier, but not that much. A 19mm ratchet & a chunk of pipe also works. 7. You'll need to turn/twist the alternator to get it through the pathway to get it out, and then the same thing to get the replacement in. Be patient.
I'm sure there are a lot of similarities between the Pilot and Odyssey but to make the comments you did above to mostly Odyssey owners (those that find this video) seems a little odd. Either way I'm glad the video helped (generally speaking) you with your Pilot.
Very well done video...one of the best I’ve seen with how you provided diagrams, arrows, highlighting of key areas. I just tackled replacing the alternator on our 2011 odyssey this morning and took me a bit less than two hours. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful, the reason for making the video that way was because all of the videos on YT before mine were lacking. My thought was someone needed to do the procedure justice so that's what I set out to attempt.
6:35 you jump cut the hardest part which is the "wiggle you speak of" everything else is simple but to wiggle it out and keep some sanity is the magic trick I came to see!!!! great video though!!!
Great video and very well explained! I had to grind down the bushing to get the rebuilt Denso to fit other than that it went pretty good. Maneuvering the old one out was a pain but the replacement seemed to get easier and easier every time I took it out to shave down the bushing.
Thx for the excellent video. We we’re going to attempt but now we bailed on it due to cold weather. I have a buddy that will do it for $200 with us buying the part. Normally we would tackle this but now that I’m 60 I’m starting to get sick of working on cars..😜
Your video is very helpful. Thanks. The serpentine pulley wrench is a must and usually available for rental at auto parts stores like Advance Auto or Auto Zone. You buy it and return in 45 days. It is also handy to break the bottom bolt of the alternator. Hardest part so far is removal of that bottom bolt. Oh, and I dropped a socket down there in the belly pan.
@@nickk1502 Friendly tip - make sure the VVT solenoid isn’t leaking oil on the alternator mounted below it. Many new alternators have been destroyed this way. Search for my comments in this video for the details and the fix. Cheers!
Followed your video and the alternator replacement went mostly like clockwork. My new "refurbished" Advanced Auto alternator was 0.033 wider at the large end than the original alternator(1.785" vs. 1.818"), argh! I had to remove material from the rear of the large bushing in order for it to fit. Fortunately I have a machine shop:) Other than that, I also removed the 2 reservoirs just to get them completely out of the way. Easy, peasy too. R&R took about 3 hours and no blood was let in the process, har! Thanks again!!
I had a similar problem with the first alternator but the issue was that the oversize area was too the rear of the alternator chassis (side away from the belt) .050 inches (1.755 vs 1.805). I took it back and found one with the correct spacing (rebuilt instead of new) Two others that commented here had a similar issue, but it seems they adjusted the position of the busing in the mount (belt side) instead of the alternator which I think is a mistake because it brings the pulley too far into the belt drive plane. To get one that fit I had to abandon the new (aftermarket) alternator and get t rebuilt. I bet the new ones are using a bushing that is too long. I also noticed when shopping that all alternators available (Honda dealers and online sources included are rebuilt unless you get a new aftermarket) I suspect Denso isn't manufacturing them.
Thanks for a great video. I had the busing problem and solved by inserting screwing, adding space larger than diameter of bushing, and tightening with nut. That compressed the busing and pulled it to the outside of the bracket.
I had a similar problem with the first alternator but the issue was that the oversize area was too the rear of the alternator chassis (side away from the belt) .050 inches. I took it back and found one with the correct spacing because I felt if I moved the bushing in the front (belt side) of the mount, the pulley would be .050 inches too far into the belt drive plane. Have you had any issues with belt wear or noise after adjusting the bushing position.
I would like to add to the information in this fine video. I just did this with my 2011. I honestly don't know how you got your hand down to the AC compressor wire that plugs into the alternator. Even with the radiator and condensor top brackets removed, there still was not enough room. I ended up draining the radiator, and disconnecting the upper rad hose, which gives you about an additional inch, allowing me (actually my helper) to slide the hand down and disconnect it. It was still a PITA and your hand will have enough scratches to look like you were playing with an angry near-ferrel cat. You can't wear a glove. Here's a better idea. I was TRYING to avoid removing all of that plastic cladding at the bottom. Just bite the bullet and do it and here's why. First of all, remove the splash shield (yeah, it's only about six screws and about six plastic fasteners but it is a real hassle to get everything lined up to get it back on but still easier than messing with the radiator and coolant). But once it's off, you can more easily reach up and disconnect that compressor wire connection plug from the alternator. Here's the kicker-with the splash shield off, you can now access the four bolts holding the AC compressor onto its bracket. I didn't want to mess with the compressor either BUT, my alternator WOULD NOT clear one of the metal AC lines to the compressor. It's actually connected to compressor and there's no moving it without detaching it (don't do that).I decided I'd rather back those four bolts out instead of removing the belt tensioner. In fact, the Honda Shop Manual states to remove the AC compressor bolts and hang the compressor up with a strong wire and says nothing about loossening the radiator, etc. Here's what I found out and this will be my procedure if I have to do it again: Leave the radiator alone. Jack the car up and put it on safe jack stands. Remove the plastic splash shield under the front end-all of it, but leave the wheel well plastic alone, just remove the fastener that connects them to the front shield. Have some new plastic fasteners on hand since the old ones will disinegrate. These Gen 4 Oddy fasteners are inferior to the ones they used on my Gen 2's and they get brittle and break with age. You will need some 13 mm and 16 mm long ones, both should fit into a 10 mm hole. Get them cheap on Amazon. I bought this brand Rexka (13mm and 16mm, packages of 40 for $10 and they are just fine, identical to OE) Maybe this link will work (www.amazon.com/dp/B078RKCVNG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) Now remove the coolant bottle and PS bottle as stated and shift out of the way. Might as well give up and remove the PS hose from the pump, plug it with a wine bottle synthetic cork (no crumbs with that plastic cork, unlike real cork and do not use paper of any kind to plug anything). That PS stuff gave me fits the whole time-so much in the way and it wants to leak so badly, and I despise it. Anyway, when finished with this job, don't forget to bleed the PS system of air at the end while both front wheels are off the ground and not carrying any (or most) weight by turning the steering wheel lock to lock about seven to ten times with the engine running. Now, back to the alternator. Back the AC compressor bolts out about an inch-not all the way out (leave enought threads in for strength) and pull the AC compressor forward. It's still attached to its bracket so you won't have to support it. This will give you just enough room to wiggle the alternator past that one metal hose blocking your way. Now remove the alternator like the video creator states in the video and put the new one in. Don't forget to push and snap the compressor wire connector to the alternator near its bottom and retorque the compressor bolts before you replace the bottom shield. From the official Honda shop manual, the 80 mm bolt that attaches the alternator at the bushing has a torque spec of 33 ft-lbs (45 N-m). The two small alternator bolts (one for the bracket and one from the alternator to the bracket are both 16 ft-lbs (22 N-m). The AC compressor bolts are torqued to 16 ft-lbs. I hope to NEVER have to do this again so I bought a BRAND NEW Denso alternator from a Honda dealership for $500 (a good price since Honda's MSRP is $700). Also, watch that gasket on the VTEC solenoid above the dipstick. It was leaking on the video maker's van and is possibly what killed the alternator. They are infamous for doing it. Replacing that gasket is a LOT easier (and cheaper) than the alternator. I don't know what killed mine with only 85K miles because I've no leak yet. But, I did notice that 80 mm bolt was rounded off badly by some previous yahoo so I don't think my alternator is the OE-probably a remanned unit-they don't last. I still have to go in and replace that bolt with a new one because I was unable to torque it to 33 ft-lbs without it slipping the socket (even my 6 point). I was lucky to get it off, and no, I didn't round it! I hope this helps the next unfortunate one that has to do this job.
Yeah it's really interesting to see the variation from experience to experience with regards to being able to access certain areas in the engine bay. Seems odd but it proves to be the case consistently. I for one didn't have a problem getting my fat pudgy hand down to that bolt (it is tight). Thanks for the tips, especially on the spool valve. I do think that (or a leaky front valve cover) is what sped up it's demise.
@@DIYAroundTheHome Thanks for the thanks. Also, I broke in the alternator using a method that an alternator manufacturer posted on You Tube. I did and I hope it makes it last longer. First, you run it 15 minutes with no additional electrical load , everything turned off, to set the brushes; then let it cool down 15 minutes; then run it 15 minutes with a partial load (high fan, interior lights on, radio on); let cool down 15 minutes; repeat steps 2 and 3, three times and if you have it, add AC on for the third time; then, finally, run it 15 minutes with the full load (all of the above plus headlights); let it cool down.
@@freespirit1975 interesting, never heard of breaking one in but it makes sense and isn't some crazy process that's time consuming so why not? Best of luck with the longevity of it. I too hope mine lasts a long time
Great video, FYI your alternator went bad because of the oil leak from the spool valve, you will need to fix that leak otherwise it will keep ruining your alternator
I wish I would have replaced the valve cover first cuz I think that was ultimately where my true leak was coming from... The very front left of the engine not far from the spool valve. When I replaced the spool valve first, the leak did not go away
Good vid man. I'll add that it required TONS of frustration to get the old out and new in on mine. Zero space. Its like solving a rubix cube haha. That aside it only took an hour. I wont give you the total time haha.
excellent! Thank you very much. Getting the alternator out of engine area once bolts are removed in tricky. I had to push back tensioner pulley all the way back to make enough space, or it would have been impossible given the fixed AC hose. You didn't really cover that. Thank You!
It seems like some people's Odysseys are a little different than others. Everything I did is shown in the video and had no trouble getting it out... but it sounds like that isn't the case for everyone. Glad the video was mostly helpful.
There is a bushing on the alternator and another where it mounts in the engine compartment, pressed in from the factory install. If the bushing on the new alternator measures over 45 mm, it may not fit without pressing the mount bushing back out. The OEM bolt is M10 x 1.25 thread. You can source a nut or substitute a 1/4 x 2 inch hex bolt and nut. Place a 3/4 inch socket over the bushing on the mount and reverse the bolt through the socket and into the nut. Double up the washers so they do not deform with moderate force from a 3/8 inch ratchet drive. A few turns will press the bushing back out such that the new alternator should easily swing into place. The bushing should press back in when you tighten the OEM bolt installing the new alternator.
Excellent diagrams and tips throughout your instructional video. The actual removal and insertion portions of the video are missing. The space in there is so tight and wiggling it out, rotating it and removing it is really difficult. Because it's so difficult, it makes videoing it even more difficult, but DIYers beware, the removal is TIGHT!!!
It really is odd that there can be so much variance from van to van but mine was not hard at all once the right angle and approach was taken, it barely touched anything on its way up... I don't doubt what you're saying though cause I've heard from many people where they have had the opposite experience
Just had this done at my dealership, $1100. A very good independent mechanic quoted $660, but unfortunately the van was already at the dealership and the belt had just broken and engine overheated. So, I got screwed on that repair. I didn't have the time to do otherwise. Dealership also implied I needed to replace the water pump and timing belt. The overheating was just a few seconds of steam caused by the belt breaking while in the service line at the dealership, so I took my chances with not getting it replaced. They racked up over $3000 dollar worth of things to be fixed, all at inflated prices. I had the dealer do the bare minimum and will take it to the independent mechanic to have the needed ones done. That's the last time that dealership will see me.
The alternator connector is difficult to remove. I had to use two long flat head screw drivers. One to push the release tab in, the other to pry it out from the top at the same time. Also, that bushing that is giving some people issues, before you put the new alternator in the cavity, get a small hammer or something similar and bang the bushing out flush from the inside out. These two things will save you a LOT of frustration.
I had a similar problem with the first alternator but the issue was that the oversize area was too the rear of the alternator chassis (side away from the belt) .050 inches. I took it back and found one with the correct spacing because I felt if I moved the bushing in the front (belt side) of the mount, the pulley would be .050 inches too far into the belt drive plane. Have you had any issues with belt wear or noise after adjusting the bushing position.
the only call out i would add is that the bushing in the lower bolt hole on my van was too large. I needed to use a pry bar to get the alternator free. on the replacement unit, again, the bushing was too big so i needed to file it down to get it in place.
I believe it was the radiator fastener, you don't take out the radiator but for some people they see a benefit of removing those two top pieces, one on the left and one on the right, so there's more play with the components... which makes working in that general area easier. By the way you can go into TH-cam video settings on the video itself and change playback speed to 0.25 which will make the sped up portion of this video much slower
getting it out is insanely hard. i had to force it against the thick ac line hose and was able to bend it towards the front of the car. with the large bottom bolt end leadin the way with the pulley upwards
Fix that oil leak or you’ll be doing this again. The VTEC solenoid (see TSB) should be replaced, and the valve cover gasket with tube seals likely need replacement as well. I just had my vc gasket and tube seals replaced yesterday due to hardening and leaking. 2016 with 115k miles.
My light just came on yesterday and our van has 87K. I sure am glad I watched this video! Way better than the other two I watched. This certainly won't be like working on the '05 Buick LeSabre!
@@DIYAroundTheHome ill second that thanks, this was about an hour job with your tips! Hardest part was weaseling the unit out but it surely does fit. The odyssey is actually a pretty easy van to deal with.
Great Video, really helpful. Only problem I'm still having is squeezing the alternator into the 14mm Bolt Standoffs. It's really tight and I'm thinking I'm going to have to do something with the A/C Compressor to get it to seat in there.
I was lucky in that I had room. I put a couple zip ties on the top hole of the new alt and lifted the alt up by the zip ties with my right hand and guided the bottom hole into the spot with my left hand, then once it looked like it was aligned close enough I got the long 14ml bolt in my left hand and pushed it in several times until it lined up and went all the way through the three parts. I did recall seeing some people on the internet say they needed to loosen the 4 screws on AC condenser to give more space. Seems strange that some Odysseys would have room but others no. Either way good luck and let us know what happens.
Yeah I didn't even look for the 4 screws I read about online, I hoped I wouldn't need to loosen them and ultimately didn't need to. I do recall reading that people loosened the 4 screws, they didn't completely remove them.
@@DIYAroundTheHome So I built a press to slide that bushing. I got an M10 bolt that was 60mm long, a 3/4 I.D. bushing and two washers. I sprayed some WD-40 on the bushing and then made my stack up (Bolt, Washer, Bushing, Washer, Nut) and cranked it down and the bushing moved giving me the gap I needed to put in the new alternator. It took about 1.5 hours to remove the alternator and about 45 min to install once I got that bushing moved. Again, great video and thank you for the help.
I ended up squeezing it in using a small screwdriver as a feeler to see how close to lined up it was. Used a small prybar to pivot the alternator as needed and managed to get the bolt threaded in about 5 mins. 5 mins and a lot of muttered threats. Still in.
@@DIYAroundTheHome Did you experience transmission issues when your alternator stop working? Or did you replace it before it failed? I am having the same issue, the alternator is not fully delivering the 13 to14volts to the battery and I experienced that the transmission stop working in the middle of the highway it totally disengaged, but the engine was still running. I slow down to the shoulder and as soon I reduce the RPM to 1000's the transmission violently engage and car move but just in the first or second gear I felt or so. I drive like that between the neighborhood at slow speed to avoid that the transmission either went down or up in the shifts. So made it home and have not move the car since then. I noticed the leak on spool valve also the alternator all grease, so my conclusion is that the gasket leak provoke the alternator to underperform delivering only 12 V and causing the transmission disengage and rough shifting. Thanks for sharing this video, it is going to be very help once I change the alternator. I can not believe that Honda have not change the design, or use a different type of material for the gasket in the spool valve. Is a great sales income for spare parts but this for sure is poor design and a poor reaction to the solution to improve it. Daniel C.
@@danielc8037 no transmission issues so far (at 160k right now). I do think the alt went out from the oil leaking from the spool valve and valve cover gasket thought. I replaced the alt a year or two ago so I am hoping the new one isnt going to have a short life cause I only fixed the oil leak a month or so ago.
Thanks!
Glad the video was helpful! Hope the video helped save you a lot of money.
Saved me $600 over what the dealer would have charged me! I sent you $10 using the Super Thanks link under the video as a toke of my appreciation
I'm using this video for the 3rd time in 3 years. The first Denso rebuilt alternator had a catastrophic failure 20 months after install. The 2nd Bosch rebuilt has a 100mA battery drain (short); finally diagnosed it after 11 months. I hope this 3rd Bosch alternator doesn't have a problem. The serpentine belt tensioner tool can't be stressed enough as to how much easier it makes the belt install; very narrow work area. I could also nudge the tensioner out of the way when installing/removing the alternator as it gave more space to pull it out. I never had to deal with removing the radiator bolts. Also, using the the zip tie on the upper bolt hole of the alternator to make a handle to guide the lower bolt in position made the job a ton easier. Thanks again for this awesome video. Just wished I didn't have to do this work frequently
Do you have an oil leak from the front valve cover or spool valve? Maybe that's what is fouling up your alternators?
Thanks man, been giving all my money to the hospital as of late. No choice but to give it a go. It worked out, Thanks again.
This video was fantastic and a lifesaver for me. I NEVER changed out an alternator before. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you.
Excellent descriptions and video. I appreciate your hard work.
I have a 2011 Hondah Odyssey.
The ONLY recommendation I have for anyone following these Excellent instructions is this:
When it comes time to install the new alternator, check the width of the old alternator where it fits in the bracket. My new alternator had a piece that made it just under 1/8th of an inch wider. I put it on a grinder. It fit after that.
Thanks for all your work.
Best car fixing video on TH-cam bar none, and I have watched a lot! Awesome instructions, well put together, great diagrams. Thanks so much!!. Saved me a fortune over dealer prices. One addition, I found I had to use the belt tool to push the tensioner out of the way to get clearance to get the alternator in and out. Thanks again!
Just got the alternator out in less than 30 minutes thanks to your video. Great job on explaining and breaking the steps down to remove so simple.thank you.
Right on. Glad to hear it.
I really appreciate the time you spent to label all the parts and describe them so precisely. Excellent video.
Great walk through! I was doubting that thing would come out of there, right up until it did, lol. I'm 6'1" so I put my Odyssey up on my ramps to save my back and that worked great. Also I used a short 1/2" socket extension to plug the PS line and put the clamp back over it. Probably took me an honest 4 hrs from set up to cleaned up. Thanks, you saved me some time & money
Glad the install went well. Appreciate the superthanks. By the way, if you don't already know this, keep an eye on your spool valve and front cover valve gasket for small oil leaks as that is often what fails up the alternator which is just right below.
I am not naturally mechanically inclined for this type of stuff. But for some reason, the detail of your video gave me the confidence to try this on my own. Saved between $600-750 dollars. Thank you so much for this video!!
That's why I filmed it. I've never changed an alternator before and was a bit frustrated at the lack of complete tutorials (at the time of publishing it) for the 2011-2017 Odyssey... so I thought I'd film it and if successful, post it online.
Legend! Thank you for this video! (For the second time!)
If you keep having alternators go bad, there's a decent chance. The front valve cover gasket is leaking or your spool valve is leaking. Check those out as they might save you down the line from having to replace it a third time😅
Thank you so much! Honda charges more than $700 just for the alternator. I didn't ask about the labor but it's probably more than $500.. You, my friend, saved me a few hundred bucks! It was easy to follow your instructions - please keep up the good work! Thank you thank you!
Great video. The last time I did this repair on my 2012 Odyssey (40K miles ago, don't ask) I removed the alternator through the front and had to drain some coolant, remove the top radiator hose, remove the cooling fans, and loosened both the radiator and condenser in their mounts. The approach in this video is easier and faster. I have 4 suggestions/comments. 1) This video doesn't actually show the alternator come out of the mount so I can't say if this was done, but I had to adjust the tensioner pulley (against the spring pressure) to make room to remove the alternator. 2) To save a little time, it is not necessary to fully remove the coolant reservoir mount, it only needs to be loosened enough to rotate out of the way. this saves both disassembly and reassembly time and avoids any mounting location issues during reassembly. 3) You can get the coolant reservoir completely out of the way by unclipping the hose from the fan shroud (3 places). this will allow you to move it, without disconnecting it, to the driver's side of the engine bay. 4) Completer remove the power steering reservoir from the engine bay, this gives more room to maneuver and eliminates the chance of PS fluid spillage during the repair. After removing the supply (larger) hose as the video shows, the fluid can be poured out through that hose into a mason jar and saved until after reinstallation.. Then just disconnect the return hose (smaller hose) and set the reservoir aside (outside the engine bay). Add the old or new PS fluid after everything in reinstalled at the end. Also, since PS fluid will destroy an alternator so it also helps avoid getting any on the new alternator.
This is one of the best tutorials I've even seen/used. The details and specific schematics really helped. Also, I second the suggestion on the serpentine belt removal tool. That made it a breeze. Thanks so much.
Remember, the alternator bolt torque is 16ft/lbs for the two on top, and 33 ft lbs for the bottom bolt.
I also routed my (new) serpentine belt over everything except the lower smooth pulley (idler?). When I cranked on the tensioner, I slipped that one on.
I also used a 1/2" extension to plug the PS hose, it worked.
Your video helped me changing the alternator on my Honda Odyssey much easier. Thank you!!!
Thank you for the instructions. My alternator was smoking so much I was afraid to drive the car to the dealer. This video saved the day! BTW, I had to hammer the bushings on both the new alternator as well as mount side for clearance.
I'm truly impressed with all of the diagrams and pics with labeled parts. It made it easy to understand your video.
Thank You big time for taking the time to record, narrate, and edit this awesome video. This video was very instrumental in helping me change my alternator for my 2013 odyssey touring. I was successful in doing this on my own the very first time. Saved me good amount of money. Thank you, thank you and thank you again!!!
Just did this on my 2011 Pilot. Saved $300 in labor. Thanks!
A few time/labor savers:
1. Don't remove the air-intake or trim piece in the front. Absolutely no need.
2. Don't remove the radiator brackets. No need.
3. DON'T disconnect the power steering hose. There's (barely) enough room to get the alt out/back in. Skip the messy waste of time.
4. Don't remove the alternator bracket until it's out of the car. This gives you another handle to remove it, and it's easier to get it off/back on the new one when it's out.
5. Some vids suggest removing the belt tensioner (not this one). Don't.
6. Some say get a special tool belt tensioner tool to remove the tension from the serpentine belt. It does make it easier, but not that much. A 19mm ratchet & a chunk of pipe also works.
7. You'll need to turn/twist the alternator to get it through the pathway to get it out, and then the same thing to get the replacement in. Be patient.
I'm sure there are a lot of similarities between the Pilot and Odyssey but to make the comments you did above to mostly Odyssey owners (those that find this video) seems a little odd.
Either way I'm glad the video helped (generally speaking) you with your Pilot.
Can't tell you how helpful your video captures the work involved. Well done!
Very well done video...one of the best I’ve seen with how you provided diagrams, arrows, highlighting of key areas. I just tackled replacing the alternator on our 2011 odyssey this morning and took me a bit less than two hours. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful, the reason for making the video that way was because all of the videos on YT before mine were lacking.
My thought was someone needed to do the procedure justice so that's what I set out to attempt.
This video was really informative. I followed it step by step and got my new alternator in...thank you!!
Very nice video. VERY clear and easy to follow. Good graphics. A+
Thank you man.. gat it ✅
This saved me about $500 from what the mechanics would’ve charged. Thanks for uploading!
6:35 you jump cut the hardest part which is the "wiggle you speak of" everything else is simple but to wiggle it out and keep some sanity is the magic trick I came to see!!!! great video though!!!
Great video and very well explained! I had to grind down the bushing to get the rebuilt Denso to fit other than that it went pretty good. Maneuvering the old one out was a pain but the replacement seemed to get easier and easier every time I took it out to shave down the bushing.
Awesome video, very professionally made I wish all videos were this level of professionalism and this detailed.
Thanks Philip, kind words
@@DIYAroundTheHome thank you for the perfect educational video.
Thx for the excellent video. We we’re going to attempt but now we bailed on it due to cold weather. I have a buddy that will do it for $200 with us buying the part. Normally we would tackle this but now that I’m 60 I’m starting to get sick of working on cars..😜
I could see myself being in your shoes in 20 years
Great video! I'm about to use it in a bit and will try to remember to come back for info after the exchange.
Great job. You are a gifted instructor
Your video is very helpful. Thanks. The serpentine pulley wrench is a must and usually available for rental at auto parts stores like Advance Auto or Auto Zone. You buy it and return in 45 days. It is also handy to break the bottom bolt of the alternator. Hardest part so far is removal of that bottom bolt. Oh, and I dropped a socket down there in the belly pan.
Second time I’ve used this video to replace my alternator. Good job man! Thanks for the tutorial.
Man I really hope you're putting on a lot of miles and not getting bad alternators!
@@DIYAroundTheHome Ha! I bought a used one/ refurb last time. This time I went with the new.
@@nickk1502 nice, I know the guys on Honda Odyssey forms really like the denso unit... though I'm sure there's others that are good too.
@@nickk1502 Friendly tip - make sure the VVT solenoid isn’t leaking oil on the alternator mounted below it. Many new alternators have been destroyed this way. Search for my comments in this video for the details and the fix. Cheers!
Followed your video and the alternator replacement went mostly like clockwork. My new "refurbished" Advanced Auto alternator was 0.033 wider at the large end than the original alternator(1.785" vs. 1.818"), argh! I had to remove material from the rear of the large bushing in order for it to fit. Fortunately I have a machine shop:) Other than that, I also removed the 2 reservoirs just to get them completely out of the way. Easy, peasy too. R&R took about 3 hours and no blood was let in the process, har! Thanks again!!
I had a similar problem with the first alternator but the issue was that the oversize area was too the rear of the alternator chassis (side away from the belt) .050 inches (1.755 vs 1.805). I took it back and found one with the correct spacing (rebuilt instead of new) Two others that commented here had a similar issue, but it seems they adjusted the position of the busing in the mount (belt side) instead of the alternator which I think is a mistake because it brings the pulley too far into the belt drive plane. To get one that fit I had to abandon the new (aftermarket) alternator and get t rebuilt. I bet the new ones are using a bushing that is too long. I also noticed when shopping that all alternators available (Honda dealers and online sources included are rebuilt unless you get a new aftermarket) I suspect Denso isn't manufacturing them.
Extremely helpful. Thank you for this concise video.
I did it yesterday on my 2011 Odyssey. your video was great help! 👍 Thank you!
Glad to hear, did you end up using a serpentine belt tool?
Really good video, my second bolt was held by a 6mm hex. 2014.
I couldn't get a 6mm into my 2014 but a 1/4" hex did the job.
Thanks for a great video. I had the busing problem and solved by inserting screwing, adding space larger than diameter of bushing, and tightening with nut. That compressed the busing and pulled it to the outside of the bracket.
I had a similar problem with the first alternator but the issue was that the oversize area was too the rear of the alternator chassis (side away from the belt) .050 inches. I took it back and found one with the correct spacing because I felt if I moved the bushing in the front (belt side) of the mount, the pulley would be .050 inches too far into the belt drive plane. Have you had any issues with belt wear or noise after adjusting the bushing position.
I would like to add to the information in this fine video. I just did this with my 2011. I honestly don't know how you got your hand down to the AC compressor wire that plugs into the alternator. Even with the radiator and condensor top brackets removed, there still was not enough room. I ended up draining the radiator, and disconnecting the upper rad hose, which gives you about an additional inch, allowing me (actually my helper) to slide the hand down and disconnect it. It was still a PITA and your hand will have enough scratches to look like you were playing with an angry near-ferrel cat. You can't wear a glove. Here's a better idea. I was TRYING to avoid removing all of that plastic cladding at the bottom. Just bite the bullet and do it and here's why. First of all, remove the splash shield (yeah, it's only about six screws and about six plastic fasteners but it is a real hassle to get everything lined up to get it back on but still easier than messing with the radiator and coolant). But once it's off, you can more easily reach up and disconnect that compressor wire connection plug from the alternator. Here's the kicker-with the splash shield off, you can now access the four bolts holding the AC compressor onto its bracket. I didn't want to mess with the compressor either BUT, my alternator WOULD NOT clear one of the metal AC lines to the compressor. It's actually connected to compressor and there's no moving it without detaching it (don't do that).I decided I'd rather back those four bolts out instead of removing the belt tensioner. In fact, the Honda Shop Manual states to remove the AC compressor bolts and hang the compressor up with a strong wire and says nothing about loossening the radiator, etc.
Here's what I found out and this will be my procedure if I have to do it again: Leave the radiator alone. Jack the car up and put it on safe jack stands. Remove the plastic splash shield under the front end-all of it, but leave the wheel well plastic alone, just remove the fastener that connects them to the front shield. Have some new plastic fasteners on hand since the old ones will disinegrate. These Gen 4 Oddy fasteners are inferior to the ones they used on my Gen 2's and they get brittle and break with age. You will need some 13 mm and 16 mm long ones, both should fit into a 10 mm hole. Get them cheap on Amazon. I bought this brand Rexka (13mm and 16mm, packages of 40 for $10 and they are just fine, identical to OE) Maybe this link will work (www.amazon.com/dp/B078RKCVNG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
Now remove the coolant bottle and PS bottle as stated and shift out of the way. Might as well give up and remove the PS hose from the pump, plug it with a wine bottle synthetic cork (no crumbs with that plastic cork, unlike real cork and do not use paper of any kind to plug anything). That PS stuff gave me fits the whole time-so much in the way and it wants to leak so badly, and I despise it. Anyway, when finished with this job, don't forget to bleed the PS system of air at the end while both front wheels are off the ground and not carrying any (or most) weight by turning the steering wheel lock to lock about seven to ten times with the engine running. Now, back to the alternator. Back the AC compressor bolts out about an inch-not all the way out (leave enought threads in for strength) and pull the AC compressor forward. It's still attached to its bracket so you won't have to support it. This will give you just enough room to wiggle the alternator past that one metal hose blocking your way. Now remove the alternator like the video creator states in the video and put the new one in. Don't forget to push and snap the compressor wire connector to the alternator near its bottom and retorque the compressor bolts before you replace the bottom shield. From the official Honda shop manual, the 80 mm bolt that attaches the alternator at the bushing has a torque spec of 33 ft-lbs (45 N-m). The two small alternator bolts (one for the bracket and one from the alternator to the bracket are both 16 ft-lbs (22 N-m). The AC compressor bolts are torqued to 16 ft-lbs. I hope to NEVER have to do this again so I bought a BRAND NEW Denso alternator from a Honda dealership for $500 (a good price since Honda's MSRP is $700). Also, watch that gasket on the VTEC solenoid above the dipstick. It was leaking on the video maker's van and is possibly what killed the alternator. They are infamous for doing it. Replacing that gasket is a LOT easier (and cheaper) than the alternator. I don't know what killed mine with only 85K miles because I've no leak yet. But, I did notice that 80 mm bolt was rounded off badly by some previous yahoo so I don't think my alternator is the OE-probably a remanned unit-they don't last. I still have to go in and replace that bolt with a new one because I was unable to torque it to 33 ft-lbs without it slipping the socket (even my 6 point). I was lucky to get it off, and no, I didn't round it! I hope this helps the next unfortunate one that has to do this job.
Yeah it's really interesting to see the variation from experience to experience with regards to being able to access certain areas in the engine bay. Seems odd but it proves to be the case consistently. I for one didn't have a problem getting my fat pudgy hand down to that bolt (it is tight).
Thanks for the tips, especially on the spool valve. I do think that (or a leaky front valve cover) is what sped up it's demise.
@@DIYAroundTheHome Thanks for the thanks. Also, I broke in the alternator using a method that an alternator manufacturer posted on You Tube. I did and I hope it makes it last longer. First, you run it 15 minutes with no additional electrical load , everything turned off, to set the brushes; then let it cool down 15 minutes; then run it 15 minutes with a partial load (high fan, interior lights on, radio on); let cool down 15 minutes; repeat steps 2 and 3, three times and if you have it, add AC on for the third time; then, finally, run it 15 minutes with the full load (all of the above plus headlights); let it cool down.
@@freespirit1975 interesting, never heard of breaking one in but it makes sense and isn't some crazy process that's time consuming so why not?
Best of luck with the longevity of it. I too hope mine lasts a long time
Amazing DIY video bro. I'm putting in a huge sound system and may need an high output alternator. This will help me get it in.
This video helped me start to finish in my 2011 Honda Odyssey. Thank you for your in depth work
Great video, FYI your alternator went bad because of the oil leak from the spool valve, you will need to fix that leak otherwise it will keep ruining your alternator
Haha that's funny cuz I just changed the spool valve and valve cover gasket a month ago cuz I got oil dripping onto the garage
I wish I would have replaced the valve cover first cuz I think that was ultimately where my true leak was coming from... The very front left of the engine not far from the spool valve. When I replaced the spool valve first, the leak did not go away
Very good video. Thanks for taking the time to make it, it was extremely helpful.
Fantastic video. Thank you for your service to humanity.
Good vid man. I'll add that it required TONS of frustration to get the old out and new in on mine. Zero space. Its like solving a rubix cube haha. That aside it only took an hour. I wont give you the total time haha.
excellent! Thank you very much. Getting the alternator out of engine area once bolts are removed in tricky. I had to push back tensioner pulley all the way back to make enough space, or it would have been impossible given the fixed AC hose. You didn't really cover that. Thank You!
It seems like some people's Odysseys are a little different than others. Everything I did is shown in the video and had no trouble getting it out... but it sounds like that isn't the case for everyone.
Glad the video was mostly helpful.
There is a bushing on the alternator and another where it mounts in the engine compartment, pressed in from the factory install. If the bushing on the new alternator measures over 45 mm, it may not fit without pressing the mount bushing back out. The OEM bolt is M10 x 1.25 thread. You can source a nut or substitute a 1/4 x 2 inch hex bolt and nut. Place a 3/4 inch socket over the bushing on the mount and reverse the bolt through the socket and into the nut. Double up the washers so they do not deform with moderate force from a 3/8 inch ratchet drive. A few turns will press the bushing back out such that the new alternator should easily swing into place. The bushing should press back in when you tighten the OEM bolt installing the new alternator.
Very well done video young man!
Best video for this....thank you
Thank you so much for this video!
Excellent diagrams and tips throughout your instructional video. The actual removal and insertion portions of the video are missing. The space in there is so tight and wiggling it out, rotating it and removing it is really difficult. Because it's so difficult, it makes videoing it even more difficult, but DIYers beware, the removal is TIGHT!!!
It really is odd that there can be so much variance from van to van but mine was not hard at all once the right angle and approach was taken, it barely touched anything on its way up... I don't doubt what you're saying though cause I've heard from many people where they have had the opposite experience
Excellent video! This helped a tremendously!
Best video I found
Just had this done at my dealership, $1100. A very good independent mechanic quoted $660, but unfortunately the van was already at the dealership and the belt had just broken and engine overheated. So, I got screwed on that repair. I didn't have the time to do otherwise. Dealership also implied I needed to replace the water pump and timing belt. The overheating was just a few seconds of steam caused by the belt breaking while in the service line at the dealership, so I took my chances with not getting it replaced. They racked up over $3000 dollar worth of things to be fixed, all at inflated prices. I had the dealer do the bare minimum and will take it to the independent mechanic to have the needed ones done. That's the last time that dealership will see me.
That's wild
The alternator connector is difficult to remove. I had to use two long flat head screw drivers. One to push the release tab in, the other to pry it out from the top at the same time. Also, that bushing that is giving some people issues, before you put the new alternator in the cavity, get a small hammer or something similar and bang the bushing out flush from the inside out. These two things will save you a LOT of frustration.
I had a similar problem with the first alternator but the issue was that the oversize area was too the rear of the alternator chassis (side away from the belt) .050 inches. I took it back and found one with the correct spacing because I felt if I moved the bushing in the front (belt side) of the mount, the pulley would be .050 inches too far into the belt drive plane. Have you had any issues with belt wear or noise after adjusting the bushing position.
Highly appreciated video.thanks
Good video. Thanks for the great instructions.
Thanks Adam, glad it was helpful
Great video! Very helpful.
the only call out i would add is that the bushing in the lower bolt hole on my van was too large. I needed to use a pry bar to get the alternator free. on the replacement unit, again, the bushing was too big so i needed to file it down to get it in place.
sorry at 2:33 time too fast what did you take out loose that 2 bolt thank you
I believe it was the radiator fastener, you don't take out the radiator but for some people they see a benefit of removing those two top pieces, one on the left and one on the right, so there's more play with the components... which makes working in that general area easier.
By the way you can go into TH-cam video settings on the video itself and change playback speed to 0.25 which will make the sped up portion of this video much slower
thank you for the excellent video. it's a great help.
Good work man
getting it out is insanely hard. i had to force it against the thick ac line hose and was able to bend it towards the front of the car. with the large bottom bolt end leadin the way with the pulley upwards
It is a tight fit
Had hard time to get it out. When put new one in, pushed the tensioner back then could place it in easily.
Very well done thank you
Fix that oil leak or you’ll be doing this again. The VTEC solenoid (see TSB) should be replaced, and the valve cover gasket with tube seals likely need replacement as well. I just had my vc gasket and tube seals replaced yesterday due to hardening and leaking. 2016 with 115k miles.
As others have said, great video
Thanks for the help.
I learned one thing from this video have triple a tow it's a Joplin Honda.
In this heat I'm not even going to attempt that. Besides I got $11,000 more miles on my warranty
Hi can a 2017 alternater fit a 2011. Tanks
I'm not sure but what you can do is go try and find out the model number and cross reference it to see if it would work
How many miles did you guys get out of your original alternator? I just hit 74k on my 2011 and got the warning.
120k or so
My light just came on yesterday and our van has 87K. I sure am glad I watched this video! Way better than the other two I watched. This certainly won't be like working on the '05 Buick LeSabre!
@@adamkurschner That's why I made the video, was really disappointed by the other ones I found out there. Glad this was helpful.
@@DIYAroundTheHome ill second that thanks, this was about an hour job with your tips! Hardest part was weaseling the unit out but it surely does fit. The odyssey is actually a pretty easy van to deal with.
156k on my 2013 honda odyssey
Great Video, really helpful. Only problem I'm still having is squeezing the alternator into the 14mm Bolt Standoffs. It's really tight and I'm thinking I'm going to have to do something with the A/C Compressor to get it to seat in there.
I was lucky in that I had room. I put a couple zip ties on the top hole of the new alt and lifted the alt up by the zip ties with my right hand and guided the bottom hole into the spot with my left hand, then once it looked like it was aligned close enough I got the long 14ml bolt in my left hand and pushed it in several times until it lined up and went all the way through the three parts.
I did recall seeing some people on the internet say they needed to loosen the 4 screws on AC condenser to give more space.
Seems strange that some Odysseys would have room but others no. Either way good luck and let us know what happens.
Well now I don't know how to loosen that. That doesn't attach to the A/C Compressor.
Yeah I didn't even look for the 4 screws I read about online, I hoped I wouldn't need to loosen them and ultimately didn't need to.
I do recall reading that people loosened the 4 screws, they didn't completely remove them.
@@DIYAroundTheHome So I built a press to slide that bushing. I got an M10 bolt that was 60mm long, a 3/4 I.D. bushing and two washers. I sprayed some WD-40 on the bushing and then made my stack up (Bolt, Washer, Bushing, Washer, Nut) and cranked it down and the bushing moved giving me the gap I needed to put in the new alternator. It took about 1.5 hours to remove the alternator and about 45 min to install once I got that bushing moved. Again, great video and thank you for the help.
I ended up squeezing it in using a small screwdriver as a feeler to see how close to lined up it was. Used a small prybar to pivot the alternator as needed and managed to get the bolt threaded in about 5 mins. 5 mins and a lot of muttered threats. Still in.
What was Honda thinking when they designed this?! What a terrible location to cram that in to!
Man you know exactly what they were thinking. “This will make them want to pay the dealership/ a mechanic rather than do it themselves.”
Looks like leaking spool valve damaged the alternator
Yup, hoping it doesn't go out soon... though I've installed one before
@@DIYAroundTheHome Did you experience transmission issues when your alternator stop working?
Or did you replace it before it failed?
I am having the same issue, the alternator is not fully delivering the 13 to14volts to the battery and I experienced that the transmission stop working in the middle of the highway it totally disengaged, but the engine was still running. I slow down to the shoulder and as soon I reduce the RPM to 1000's the transmission violently engage and car move but just in the first or second gear I felt or so.
I drive like that between the neighborhood at slow speed to avoid that the transmission either went down or up in the shifts. So made it home and have not move the car since then.
I noticed the leak on spool valve also the alternator all grease, so my conclusion is that the gasket leak provoke the alternator to underperform delivering only 12 V and causing the transmission disengage and rough shifting.
Thanks for sharing this video, it is going to be very help once I change the alternator.
I can not believe that Honda have not change the design, or use a different type of material for the gasket in the spool valve. Is a great sales income for spare parts but this for sure is poor design and a poor reaction to the solution to improve it.
Daniel C.
@@danielc8037 no transmission issues so far (at 160k right now). I do think the alt went out from the oil leaking from the spool valve and valve cover gasket thought. I replaced the alt a year or two ago so I am hoping the new one isnt going to have a short life cause I only fixed the oil leak a month or so ago.
I was quoted $900