The bounce when you dropped the acrylic magnifier into the holder and it hit the workpiece is why the better versions of this tool have a step to a wider section at the top of the magnifier so it sits in the holder with just a tiny bit of clearance and doesn't make contact with the workpiece and get that nicely polished end all marred up...
You can insert the metal punch on one end and the plexiglass rod on the other. You can then lightly press or tap the punch to leave a concentric point on the end of the plexiglass.
to create the center mark in the viewer (acrilic) use the tool body it self to align the punch with the viewer, push together and spin teh punch against the ciewer, this will let you know if the punch is completely on center with the mark it leaves, if it's a dot than yourr centered, if the mark is a ring than your punch os out of center :)
I was taught that tools like these (and transfer punches) are center point markers, so as long as you have decent close eyesight and you can locate a proper center punch in the registered hole it has done its job. Hitting it any harder isn't needed. Looks great!
A nice little project, might have to make one myself. Regarding the aluminium not machining right, I've seen that with some 6082-T6 where it was soft and gummy, not normal. I called the supplier and spoke to the head guy and he said he knew exactly what I was experiencing as he had run a commercial machine shop producing large volumes of aluminium parts and things would be fine for months until a new batch of material would come in from the mill and things would go wrong as it didn't machine as it should. He said they got the heat treatment wrong, he was large enough they would replace the material. In my case he said to ask for him next time i was in and he would replace it which he did FOC and I could keep the bad stuff which is slowly being used up where it can be.
I think you are spot on here. I recently made a some sleeves out of 6082-T6. They came from the same bar, but I had to use some heat to shrink one of them on, while the other I was able to just press on. Both were machined after wards. The one that was just pressed on machined like normal, but the heated one machined terribly.
These are handy tools! I bought one before I had machine tools and all it needs now that I think about it is a vent hole so I can swap tools without the vacuum acting to disturb it.
You get use to them once you see how precise you can be, I think that's why design wise Fowler does there's in the holder so it is ready to work. I like the 3 hole version, two outside centers store, center hole thru drilled. Good video and good riddance to that aluminum, well maybe not good riddance, it is a gift. Thanks for sharing!
I’d love to see an updated machining tools video! I’ve recently gotten my first mini mill and would love to see a video of all the things you find necessary, great to have, and a waste of time/money. This could include some sort of small shop storage solutions, tools, etc.
I have been going to make one of these for a long time now, your video has got me motivated again so I will make a copy of yours great work thank you. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Man, I think he would totally appreciate it, considering they are not cheap for what they are. I wanted one to have for the occasional precision punch, but couldn't justify paying 100 USD for one, so this looks like a project I'll have to take up.
I had to look that up coz I thought "100 usd?! No way"........😱 HOLY CRAP!! For a Uri Tuchman rendition - sure, no worries. For what Google showed me -🖕
@@vaulthecreator Yeah, there are some cheaper ones but from my experience, every time I buy cheap center punches, the heads are so soft they fold over after a few strikes. A good set seems to be around 100 USD. I also believe that optical punches are such a niche item that even the Chinese don't bother making them, as there's probably not a huge market for it, so the pricing seems to be steady.
Suggestions: 1. Make the holder, the part in which you installed the O-ring, out of acrylic. As you made it out of metal, the acrylic “finder” gets very dark when you lean over it to align the dot on the target workpiece. Alternatively you can ;make the acrylic rod longer, it acts like a light pipe to illuminate the surface to be punched. 2. I used fine sandpaper glued to the holder instead of an O-ring. Some O-rings slip. Rubber O-rings work better than neoprene. Fine sandpaper works well. 3. I made my original punch from water hardening drill rod. Even after hardening, the tip smashes flat when used on iron or steel. To fix it, I used a commercial centerpunch insert pressed into a cylindrical holder that fits the drilled hole. The commercial tips are cheap and can easily be replaced if it dulls. I still don’t know why my hardened original drill rod punch didn’t harden enough. 4. I agree with the fellow that feels the acrylic rod should not contact the target surface. 5. To make the lens, you can drill a 3 inch hole in a piece of 2x4, then cut the 2x4 bisecting the 3” hole. Then glue sandpaper to the inside of the half circle. You can vary the magnification of the final lens end by changing the size of the hole drilled in the 2x4.
That turned out great!!! Personally, I would love to get a handmade gift like that. Your friend is lucky indeed. I hope that you and your family have a very Merry Christmas.
My favorite finish on Aluminum is brushing it with a scotch brite pad to remove the tool marks and then I put it in some concentrated sodium hydroxide solution. This not only cleans the part, but you get a really nice uniform finish with a bright and almost blueish silver color. Depending on the concentration it only takes a few minutes, but you can also do it with washing soda and let it sit for longer, if you don't feel like dealing with corrosive chemicals. Just keep in mind, that you are chemically removing material, so be careful on parts with very critical tolerances.
Good video. This center punch is helpful when doing precise layouts for face plate work on the lathe. Using a spring loaded center between the tail stock center and the prick point made by the center punch, work can be located within two or three thousands of an inch with a dial indicator running on the spring loaded center.
Thanks for sharing, it's now on my future projects list, as I use a center punch A LOT and my close-up eyesight is rapidly going where my punch holes are going....
Nice work. As no one is likely to give me one, I guess I’ll have to make my own. I watched another YT channel making one last week. Popular subject all of a sudden!
If you use that center punch on steel, I think you'll find it is actually very soft. You need to heat the punch up to a dull cherry red before quenching.
Just came in from the shop myself. It’s 2 degrees C here and my shop is unheated so I was glad to get some milling done before it gets back under freezing. Making some jaws for the air vise at work, nothing fancy but I enjoy working with my hands since I sit in front of solidworks all day during the week.
Great video! Good pacing throughout... a few hints from an old head machinist. While turning straight turns its better on the machine and inserts to use an 80deg insert,hog a bit more,less work for you.... when i use to machine glass to keep the 4 jaws from marking up the piece we used vinyl,basically took blinds from the windows and cut em up and taped to connect when wraping around it didnt knock the part out to much and just needed a slight tramming in.. Reamers gives the best finish but boring bars give you the best tolerance.. dont ever use micro boring bar brand always use inserted boring bars! Loved the video hope to see more from ya!😂
Schönes Present! Bei 13:00 kannst du sehen dass das Acryl Fadenkreuz zu viel Spiel hat. Deshalb hat die Konstruktion eine Ungenauigkeit von mehreren 1/10 mm! Das schafft jeder der gut sehen kann oder eine Brille trägt ohne das optische Gerät. Die Schwierigkeit liegt vielmehr beim präzisen Ansetzen der Bohrer, ohne diese zu verbiegen! Live Greetings
You can wash/ rinse the pads numerous times also. 😁😁They are commonly found in Pen Turners go to abrasives' box. As demonstrated so ably here, perfect for hard plastics, also for standard wood turning 'hard' finishes, even CA/BLO. Oh, not forgetting the resin/ epoxy casters. I have a few packs, some for wood, some for plastics and even some for metals. Just don't mix them up. 😒 (Don't ask).
very cool little present that. I occasionally struggle to get centre dots and if you don't get them exactly right drill bits wander ...especially small ones so I know I would be stoked to get something like this.....considering making one now too lol happy holidays
Love you're channel, nice work, I hope santa brings you a bandsaw as I bought one a few years back and find it great and I cringe when I see you attack some large piece of steel with the hacksaw
my idea would be to have the magnifier drilled in at an angle. this way, the user doesn't have to take the magnifier out and replace it with the punch. i would have both the magnifier and punch interact with each other on a sort of "rocker arm" that could quickly move the magnifier out of the way when the punch is hit. this would be harder to make, but would drastically reduce the chances of this set from shifting while the magnifier is replaced with the punch. it would also be much faster.
I wonder if you could use the body to perfectly center the dot on the acrylic. Machine/bore the body, insert the acrylic while it's still on the lathe and then do the dot. actually, i wonder if you could just lay the body sideways, insert the acrylic from one side and the punch from the other and use the concentricity of the punch to mark the acrylic
12:55 It looks like the magnifier is stationary while the holder moves due to space between them. There should be zero slop in the magnifier or the punch.
its like 5$ on aliexpress in anodized cnc machined aluminium. Plus if your have two metal rods connected by a spring you dont even need the hammmer. You pull them apart and let go. Its much nicer. Or the spring punch where you just push on it. Give it a 10mm OD and it will fit in the same hole
Wouldn't you be able to use the punch to make the center dot in the acrylic sight by using the holder? Putting the acrylic in the holder half way, then inserting the punch into the other side of the holder and giving it a gentle tap. Wouldn't this way ensure both the punch center and the sight center are both in the same place as long as they both have the same diameter. I could be wrong if so I'd love to know how so I can learn where I'm messing up.
32mm?! Come on dude! Whats that in American!? Just kidding. Nice job. Gonna make one of these one day. This may help,,,, or not. The guys in the pattern shop where I used to work used bees wax when drilling and cutting aluminum. It works pretty well. No idea with the stuff you're using though.
Ordinary diesel would probably be better lubricant and much much cheaper than aluminium cutting oils. ( I've also found very light grade (0W-20) full synthetic engine oil works very well on gummy alloys ( helps prevent build-up, even on HSS) I bought a quart (litre?) quite a few years ago and still have most of it. Was it 6061 aluminium or a different grade? I mainly use 6061 but have had variations, plus some unknown alloys from local surplus store. Some just destroyed aluminium specific tooling as build up was horrible (how I found full synthetic engine oil was so good)
Crazy question. Would freezing the aluminum help with the galling problem you have with it? If you cool a soft cheese it is way easier to cut. Am I crazy?
about that garbage aluminium we had a piece like that at school for our CNCs we broke 2 5mm endmills because at that time we had no coolant or airblast option setup that specific aluminium allow is REALLY malleable and doesn't become brittle when bent like some other more machinig friendly alloys it also very much likes to stick to any cutting tool and cause tear out on the surface it's a piece of garbage
The bounce when you dropped the acrylic magnifier into the holder and it hit the workpiece is why the better versions of this tool have a step to a wider section at the top of the magnifier so it sits in the holder with just a tiny bit of clearance and doesn't make contact with the workpiece and get that nicely polished end all marred up...
For a just get it done method - put an o-ring on the magnifier at the same position. Certainly not the same look.
This ain't ClickSpring.
You can insert the metal punch on one end and the plexiglass rod on the other. You can then lightly press or tap the punch to leave a concentric point on the end of the plexiglass.
Came here to say the same thing!
That sounds like a much easier & more accurate method in the home workshop!
@@Arckivio
When you get older, it becomes a necessity as glasses prevent you getting close enough to see some things due to parallax angle.
@1crazypj I'm already there mate!
Tp be fair, I already suggested this technique to Pask Makes who also happens to be Australian too.
I suppose most people think a center punch is a blow to the nose but this is a really nifty gadget and of course a very nice gift.
😂🤣😂🤣
I don't think my wife would like one though. 😂😂😂
I have one, made in Germany, got it from my uncle. It's in daily - or at least weekly - use in my shop. Well made gift!
to create the center mark in the viewer (acrilic) use the tool body it self to align the punch with the viewer, push together and spin teh punch against the ciewer, this will let you know if the punch is completely on center with the mark it leaves, if it's a dot than yourr centered, if the mark is a ring than your punch os out of center :)
I was taught that tools like these (and transfer punches) are center point markers, so as long as you have decent close eyesight and you can locate a proper center punch in the registered hole it has done its job. Hitting it any harder isn't needed. Looks great!
A nice little project, might have to make one myself. Regarding the aluminium not machining right, I've seen that with some 6082-T6 where it was soft and gummy, not normal. I called the supplier and spoke to the head guy and he said he knew exactly what I was experiencing as he had run a commercial machine shop producing large volumes of aluminium parts and things would be fine for months until a new batch of material would come in from the mill and things would go wrong as it didn't machine as it should. He said they got the heat treatment wrong, he was large enough they would replace the material. In my case he said to ask for him next time i was in and he would replace it which he did FOC and I could keep the bad stuff which is slowly being used up where it can be.
I think you are spot on here. I recently made a some sleeves out of 6082-T6. They came from the same bar, but I had to use some heat to shrink one of them on, while the other I was able to just press on. Both were machined after wards. The one that was just pressed on machined like normal, but the heated one machined terribly.
Depending on how hot you heated the part you may have softened it.
A piece of velvet glued on the bottom would finish it off a little nicer too.
Nice job, I’d be honored to get one.
Nicely done and they are a useful addition to any workshop. Especially one occupied by a bloke with tired eyes, like mine.
These are handy tools! I bought one before I had machine tools and all it needs now that I think about it is a vent hole so I can swap tools without the vacuum acting to disturb it.
The intro is so golden! 🤣
Nice gift. I wouldn’t mind having one of these myself
I have an optical center, and I’m surprised how much I use it. Grate work.
Engraved on the holder: "Hey bud, you've been a little off the mark recently, so I made you this"
😆😆😆
Very nice gift, i would be very happy with it..excellent job!
Awesome build, your friend should be so lucky.
What a cool little project. Now I have to make my own version.
Always want a precise and accurate centre punch.
I've been thinking about something like this. Don't think I've ever hit centre with a punch, so this will be added to the list.
A project well worth doing! Great job! (watched twice)
You get use to them once you see how precise you can be, I think that's why design wise Fowler does there's in the holder so it is ready to work. I like the 3 hole version, two outside centers store, center hole thru drilled. Good video and good riddance to that aluminum, well maybe not good riddance, it is a gift. Thanks for sharing!
I’d love to see an updated machining tools video! I’ve recently gotten my first mini mill and would love to see a video of all the things you find necessary, great to have, and a waste of time/money. This could include some sort of small shop storage solutions, tools, etc.
I didn't know optical centre punches were a thing, but we would use it daily at work if we had one!!
I have been going to make one of these for a long time now, your video has got me motivated again so I will make a copy of yours great work thank you. 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Very nice work. I need to make one myself at some stage. Good job
Man, I think he would totally appreciate it, considering they are not cheap for what they are. I wanted one to have for the occasional precision punch, but couldn't justify paying 100 USD for one, so this looks like a project I'll have to take up.
I had to look that up coz I thought "100 usd?! No way"........😱 HOLY CRAP!!
For a Uri Tuchman rendition - sure, no worries. For what Google showed me -🖕
@@vaulthecreator Yeah, there are some cheaper ones but from my experience, every time I buy cheap center punches, the heads are so soft they fold over after a few strikes. A good set seems to be around 100 USD. I also believe that optical punches are such a niche item that even the Chinese don't bother making them, as there's probably not a huge market for it, so the pricing seems to be steady.
Got a This Old Tony vibe on this one. Nice work
Thanks for sharing 👍 and Merry Christmas to you and your family 😊
Someone get this man a hand held band saw. Come on Vevor! Step up! :)
Suggestions: 1. Make the holder, the part in which you installed the O-ring, out of acrylic. As you made it out of metal, the acrylic “finder” gets very dark when you lean over it to align the dot on the target workpiece. Alternatively you can ;make the acrylic rod longer, it acts like a light pipe to illuminate the surface to be punched. 2. I used fine sandpaper glued to the holder instead of an O-ring. Some O-rings slip. Rubber O-rings work better than neoprene. Fine sandpaper works well. 3. I made my original punch from water hardening drill rod. Even after hardening, the tip smashes flat when used on iron or steel. To fix it, I used a commercial centerpunch insert pressed into a cylindrical holder that fits the drilled hole. The commercial tips are cheap and can easily be replaced if it dulls. I still don’t know why my hardened original drill rod punch didn’t harden enough. 4. I agree with the fellow that feels the acrylic rod should not contact the target surface. 5. To make the lens, you can drill a 3 inch hole in a piece of 2x4, then cut the 2x4 bisecting the 3” hole. Then glue sandpaper to the inside of the half circle. You can vary the magnification of the final lens end by changing the size of the hole drilled in the 2x4.
I've been wanting one of these. I'll have to add this to my list of projects! 👍
very nice little project
That turned out great!!! Personally, I would love to get a handmade gift like that. Your friend is lucky indeed.
I hope that you and your family have a very Merry Christmas.
My favorite finish on Aluminum is brushing it with a scotch brite pad to remove the tool marks and then I put it in some concentrated sodium hydroxide solution. This not only cleans the part, but you get a really nice uniform finish with a bright and almost blueish silver color. Depending on the concentration it only takes a few minutes, but you can also do it with washing soda and let it sit for longer, if you don't feel like dealing with corrosive chemicals. Just keep in mind, that you are chemically removing material, so be careful on parts with very critical tolerances.
That does look like pure alum, or nearly pure anyway. Quite gummy, that. awesome work
Good video. This center punch is helpful when doing precise layouts for face plate work on the lathe. Using a spring loaded center between the tail stock center and the prick point made by the center punch, work can be located within two or three thousands of an inch with a dial indicator running on the spring loaded center.
Beautiful work, dude! It turned out great! 😃
Merry Christmas!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks for sharing, it's now on my future projects list, as I use a center punch A LOT and my close-up eyesight is rapidly going where my punch holes are going....
Nice work. As no one is likely to give me one, I guess I’ll have to make my own. I watched another YT channel making one last week. Popular subject all of a sudden!
If you use that center punch on steel, I think you'll find it is actually very soft. You need to heat the punch up to a dull cherry red before quenching.
Nice, That’s what I need, might make one for myself. 🤔
Looks good.
nice work, it looks amazing.
I love it!
your friend is very lucky i hope he makes you something
Just came in from the shop myself. It’s 2 degrees C here and my shop is unheated so I was glad to get some milling done before it gets back under freezing. Making some jaws for the air vise at work, nothing fancy but I enjoy working with my hands since I sit in front of solidworks all day during the week.
I have that exact unit you showed. I used mine yesterday.
Great video! Good pacing throughout... a few hints from an old head machinist.
While turning straight turns its better on the machine and inserts to use an 80deg insert,hog a bit more,less work for you....
when i use to machine glass to keep the 4 jaws from marking up the piece we used vinyl,basically took blinds from the windows and cut em up and taped to connect when wraping around it didnt knock the part out to much and just needed a slight tramming in..
Reamers gives the best finish but boring bars give you the best tolerance.. dont ever use micro boring bar brand always use inserted boring bars!
Loved the video hope to see more from ya!😂
Schönes Present!
Bei 13:00 kannst du sehen dass das Acryl Fadenkreuz zu viel Spiel hat. Deshalb hat die Konstruktion eine Ungenauigkeit von mehreren 1/10 mm! Das schafft jeder der gut sehen kann oder eine Brille trägt ohne das optische Gerät. Die Schwierigkeit liegt vielmehr beim präzisen Ansetzen der Bohrer, ohne diese zu verbiegen!
Live Greetings
Very nice project! Thanks for sharing. I never knew about those micromesh sanding pads. Just added a bunch to the arsenal! cheers!
You can wash/ rinse the pads numerous times also. 😁😁They are commonly found in Pen Turners go to abrasives' box. As demonstrated so ably here, perfect for hard plastics, also for standard wood turning 'hard' finishes, even CA/BLO. Oh, not forgetting the resin/ epoxy casters. I have a few packs, some for wood, some for plastics and even some for metals. Just don't mix them up. 😒 (Don't ask).
@@timgrenville-cleave2848 Thanks for the tips.
Happy Holidays buddy, thanks for sharing 🎉
very cool little present that. I occasionally struggle to get centre dots and if you don't get them exactly right drill bits wander ...especially small ones so I know I would be stoked to get something like this.....considering making one now too lol
happy holidays
very nice wqork!
Added to my projects list !
when i was a maint tech at Snapper Mowers/Briggs and Stratton, a tool and die maker gifted me one. made things so much easier.
I need to make one of these someday
Thats so awesome, happy holidays man! Awesome video!
👍I’d buy one❤
One of my most accurate tools I made! It was such a nice project!
Love you're channel, nice work, I hope santa brings you a bandsaw as I bought one a few years back and find it great and I cringe when I see you attack some large piece of steel with the hacksaw
I would use one.
my idea would be to have the magnifier drilled in at an angle. this way, the user doesn't have to take the magnifier out and replace it with the punch.
i would have both the magnifier and punch interact with each other on a sort of "rocker arm" that could quickly move the magnifier out of the way when the punch is hit.
this would be harder to make, but would drastically reduce the chances of this set from shifting while the magnifier is replaced with the punch. it would also be much faster.
A “V” groove through the center would allow punching pipe or round stock.
I wonder if you could use the body to perfectly center the dot on the acrylic. Machine/bore the body, insert the acrylic while it's still on the lathe and then do the dot.
actually, i wonder if you could just lay the body sideways, insert the acrylic from one side and the punch from the other and use the concentricity of the punch to mark the acrylic
12:55 It looks like the magnifier is stationary while the holder moves due to space between them. There should be zero slop in the magnifier or the punch.
Have you seen the optical edge finder for the mill?
Thumbnail looks like a Inheritance Machining one 🤣🤣🤣
Try using ethanol or isopropyl alcohol as coolant when cutting aluminum.
In the "test" footage it is clear that there is a huge backlash between the movement of the body and the optical rod.
Yeah, it's atrocious.
To me it doesn't look like backlash but more like the whole body rocking on the o ring. Perhaps the groove could be made a touch deeper.
I was making something last week where one of these would have been nice.
its like 5$ on aliexpress in anodized cnc machined aluminium. Plus if your have two metal rods connected by a spring you dont even need the hammmer. You pull them apart and let go. Its much nicer. Or the spring punch where you just push on it. Give it a 10mm OD and it will fit in the same hole
A very nice gift. Cheers 👍💪✌
Ha, I was just shopping for one on eBay a couple days ago and decided I'd rather just make one. I'll be copying your process, thanks!
Optical Santa punch for Xmas? Sounds a bit mean. He'll set Rudolph on you!
I could actually see something like this being used for watchmaking or another similar situation where accuracy is critical.
Wouldn't you be able to use the punch to make the center dot in the acrylic sight by using the holder? Putting the acrylic in the holder half way, then inserting the punch into the other side of the holder and giving it a gentle tap.
Wouldn't this way ensure both the punch center and the sight center are both in the same place as long as they both have the same diameter.
I could be wrong if so I'd love to know how so I can learn where I'm messing up.
You would also need to fix the rotation in case you have runout on the punch
It looks like acrylic is WAY smaller in diameter than the outer shell
Really like your videos. One question. What hacksaw blades do recommend?
Do you think you could find a smaller jar to quench parts in?
For such a small part it probably doesn’t matter a whole lot.
Лучший в мире акцент)
Where do you buy your steel bar and other plates from?
32mm?! Come on dude! Whats that in American!? Just kidding. Nice job. Gonna make one of these one day. This may help,,,, or not. The guys in the pattern shop where I used to work used bees wax when drilling and cutting aluminum. It works pretty well. No idea with the stuff you're using though.
Ordinary diesel would probably be better lubricant and much much cheaper than aluminium cutting oils. (
I've also found very light grade (0W-20) full synthetic engine oil works very well on gummy alloys ( helps prevent build-up, even on HSS)
I bought a quart (litre?) quite a few years ago and still have most of it.
Was it 6061 aluminium or a different grade?
I mainly use 6061 but have had variations, plus some unknown alloys from local surplus store.
Some just destroyed aluminium specific tooling as build up was horrible (how I found full synthetic engine oil was so good)
While ago paskmakes did optical punch but i prefer your practical approach more.
The acrylic part might not even need redoing. The combination of centerpunch and sanding would sort of cut away the asymmetric parts first.
Crazy question. Would freezing the aluminum help with the galling problem you have with it? If you cool a soft cheese it is way easier to cut. Am I crazy?
Себе слеплю вещицу красивую такую
на столе поставлю и сижу любуюсь!
Нанесу я точки на хлебе и на сале
Чтобы мои гости не сильно покусали
Hey man how do you use the lathe do you sit down or standing??
A nice brass body which would be minimal extra cost...would just have been sooo much better..and no rust either.
Using sandpaper without protecting the bed of the lathe hurts while watching.
the circle cutting tool os called trepanning tool
Say it with me, AH-LOO-MIN-UM 😂
Google "British English"
al u min i um, sol der, nu cu lar 🙂...........
👍👍👍
What is the point of this endeavour? 😆Enjoyed it very much, cheers! and nice gift for your lucky chum!
I don’t know why, but deep down I hope that’s been the same hacksaw blade after all these years.
about that garbage aluminium
we had a piece like that at school for our CNCs
we broke 2 5mm endmills because at that time we had no coolant or airblast option setup
that specific aluminium allow is REALLY malleable and doesn't become brittle when bent like some other more machinig friendly alloys
it also very much likes to stick to any cutting tool and cause tear out on the surface
it's a piece of garbage
Punch a center or center a punch?
... yes, no. maybe. Its one of them
Center a center, punch a punch
Definitely not ornamental! The problem is they’re pretty expensive. I’d absolutely love to have one!
$500 center punch!
The lathe has really become alot stiffer, so much less chattering noise in this video!