Hello, got into woodcarving/whittling after getting a book for Christmas. I like your videos because it just shows you that you don't need to spend a fortune on brand name carving knives/tools. Making your own is good because you can make a tool for specific jobs without breaking the bank. Thanks for showing us how you make your tools in such a easy to follow way! Thank you!
Best carving knife build video I've seen so far. Using the O1 flat ground is brilliant. It machines well and heat treating is just about fool proof. I was surprised that no rivets were used, but the epoxy should work well. If I make a knife or three, I will make just this way. I didn't like the drilling technique shown however. Obviously this craftsman has never had his hand laid open from a spinning workpiece. It's nasty and bloody and best avoided with a simple stop if nothing else. Eventually it'll get you.
Hi Patrick, I'm a toolmaker from way back. Your tempering is great. When I learnt my trade, the hardening process was exactly the same as what you showed. When tempering, we found a visual aspect to the process was excellent. We polished the surface of the hardened unit, ensuring that we didn't touch the polished surface thus placing the oils from our skin on the surface. then we would re-heat the unit, by oven, or on a steel plate, slowly. We would watch the unit go through its colour range, depending on the hardness required. A light straw colour would give us the hardness you were looking for (around 55 - 58 on the rockwell scale) the colour range would commence at light straw, moving into dark straw and eventually a blue colour. Tempering removes the brittleness of the steel such as a files cutting surface (62-65 rockwell) would be, hence the ease of snapping a file with relative ease. Try snapping the part of a file that fits into the wooden handle, it will only bend because it was tempered back to a blue range. Your video brought back old memories that most Trades apprentices would never get the experience of these days. Thanks for the memories, ever tried case hardening mild steel? ;-)
Yes, that technique possibly hasn’t changed since Middle Ages ;) The more modern way would require to find exact temperature for that steel from the chart. Apply correct heating time in the oven with temperature control. Use specific cooling liquid… but who can do that at home just for a small knife? Well applied Middle Ages technique works good enough. Most people cannot do even that.
Really digging you videos. The delivery and explanation is great. You catch everything with excellent videography and editing too. Very talented. Subed
With regards to drilling the steel where you mentioned it's quite easy for it to spin, try placing a couple of screws either side into the wood and this will stop any spin that may occur.... 👍🏼
Although D2 tool steel needs to be heated to ~1800F for heat treating, O1 steel only needs to be heated to about 1550F. For larger tools, that is easier to achieve with a simple propane torch. Great videos, Patrick! I enjoy your informative style and presentation of detail that provides even a novice enough importation to be successful.
With such complex blade shape. Would it be possible to draw it on paper with ruler, compass and pencil? Then glue on the metal? Or is it too imprecise?
Great video instructional. I have been looking for this exact info. I really like that you used a propane torch for heating the blade. I have pretty much the same equipment you used and don't have the room to make a forge. That is a nice little knife you made and is about the size I need.
To stabilize the stock to drill the holes, just place several roundhead screws at the edges of the stock to act as stops and hold the stock down to the board.
Hi Patrick, I've enjoyed your videos and have already made the first of the two knives. I'm about to start on the second. One question I have for you and I'll be grateful for your answer: Do these knives have a secondary bevel? Specially the kiridashi style knife. Thanks in advance
I think most blades intended for wood carving benefit from a very small secondary bevel. It strengthens the actual cutting edge, making microscopic chipping less likely.
@@PatrickSullivan. Much obliged for your answer. I have finished the second ''kiridashi'' style knife. Nice adaptation for chip carving enthusiasts. Thank you for your videos
I just found your videos on making small carving knives. And I am awestruck! As it happens I've been trying to find knives just like the ones you made here. Now I wonder; Do you make knives for sale? Best regards Morten Aasberg from Norway
Excellent guide to making knives. If possible can you supply the detentions of your handles? I really like the design and would like to turn some for my own use. Thanks,Mitch
Hello Patrick Love the videos I've watched most of the videos but what program did you use to make the outlines. Also could you make a video on making a saw similar to the one you used to cut the back of the handle. Thanks for the videos
Can you suggest where I can find patterns for wood carving knives? I have found several pattern websites; however, these type of knives are not included. Thanks !
No. The temperature for the tempering is critical. If you temper at a higher temp, like 500, the steel will lose more of its hardness. This makes the steel a little more resilient, but you lose some edge-holding ability. This would be good it you were making a screwdriver or an axe, but for very small cutting tools like these, my suggestion is to follow the tempering formula I provided in the video exactly.
CorelDraw and Adobe Illustrator cost $$$$. There is a free, Adobe Illustrator alternative called 'Inkscape'. Totally free. Has all the same tools as the two vector drawing programs that are expensive. Inkscape can open PDF, Illustrator files and some CorelDraw files.
Hi Patrick! Love these videos. The best on the subject I have found so far. With regards to you carbide tool process. Seems like the lap disk could be applied to making knife blades as well or are the steel versions in your video better?
Hello, got into woodcarving/whittling after getting a book for Christmas. I like your videos because it just shows you that you don't need to spend a fortune on brand name carving knives/tools. Making your own is good because you can make a tool for specific jobs without breaking the bank. Thanks for showing us how you make your tools in such a easy to follow way! Thank you!
I REMEMBER those little tools! LOVELY videos - make a hook knife or a sloyd?
Best carving knife build video I've seen so far. Using the O1 flat ground is brilliant. It machines well and heat treating is just about fool proof. I was surprised that no rivets were used, but the epoxy should work well. If I make a knife or three, I will make just this way. I didn't like the drilling technique shown however. Obviously this craftsman has never had his hand laid open from a spinning workpiece. It's nasty and bloody and best avoided with a simple stop if nothing else. Eventually it'll get you.
Hi Patrick, I'm a toolmaker from way back. Your tempering is great. When I learnt my trade, the hardening process was exactly the same as what you showed. When tempering, we found a visual aspect to the process was excellent. We polished the surface of the hardened unit, ensuring that we didn't touch the polished surface thus placing the oils from our skin on the surface. then we would re-heat the unit, by oven, or on a steel plate, slowly. We would watch the unit go through its colour range, depending on the hardness required. A light straw colour would give us the hardness you were looking for (around 55 - 58 on the rockwell scale) the colour range would commence at light straw, moving into dark straw and eventually a blue colour. Tempering removes the brittleness of the steel such as a files cutting surface (62-65 rockwell) would be, hence the ease of snapping a file with relative ease. Try snapping the part of a file that fits into the wooden handle, it will only bend because it was tempered back to a blue range. Your video brought back old memories that most Trades apprentices would never get the experience of these days. Thanks for the memories, ever tried case hardening mild steel? ;-)
Yes, that technique possibly hasn’t changed since Middle Ages
;)
The more modern way would require to find exact temperature for that steel from the chart. Apply correct heating time in the oven with temperature control. Use specific cooling liquid… but who can do that at home just for a small knife?
Well applied Middle Ages technique works good enough. Most people cannot do even that.
Really digging you videos. The delivery and explanation is great. You catch everything with excellent videography and editing too. Very talented. Subed
With regards to drilling the steel where you mentioned it's quite easy for it to spin, try placing a couple of screws either side into the wood and this will stop any spin that may occur.... 👍🏼
Although D2 tool steel needs to be heated to ~1800F for heat treating, O1 steel only needs to be heated to about 1550F. For larger tools, that is easier to achieve with a simple propane torch.
Great videos, Patrick! I enjoy your informative style and presentation of detail that provides even a novice enough importation to be successful.
With such complex blade shape. Would it be possible to draw it on paper with ruler, compass and pencil? Then glue on the metal?
Or is it too imprecise?
Great video instructional. I have been looking for this exact info. I really like that you used a propane torch for heating the blade. I have pretty much the same equipment you used and don't have the room to make a forge. That is a nice little knife you made and is about the size I need.
To stabilize the stock to drill the holes, just place several roundhead screws at the edges of the stock to act as stops and hold the stock down to the board.
hi Patrick! thanks for this video!!! Could you tell us the link where do you bought this metal bar? Thanks in advance!
Hi Patrick, I've enjoyed your videos and have already made the first of the two knives. I'm about to start on the second. One question I have for you and I'll be grateful for your answer: Do these knives have a secondary bevel? Specially the kiridashi style knife. Thanks in advance
I think most blades intended for wood carving benefit from a very small secondary bevel. It strengthens the actual cutting edge, making microscopic chipping less likely.
@@PatrickSullivan. Much obliged for your answer. I have finished the second ''kiridashi'' style knife. Nice adaptation for chip carving enthusiasts. Thank you for your videos
Nice job, thank you.
I just found your videos on making small carving knives. And I am awestruck! As it happens I've been trying to find knives just like the ones you made here. Now I wonder; Do you make knives for sale? Best regards Morten Aasberg from Norway
Excellent guide to making knives. If possible can you supply the detentions of your handles? I really like the design and would like to turn some for my own use. Thanks,Mitch
Chauncey Mitchell and
What grit are you using on your belt sander?
Thank you.
Great videos , may i ask which camera you use for shooting videos?
Hello Patrick
Love the videos I've watched most of the videos but what program did you use to make the outlines. Also could you make a video on making a saw similar to the one you used to cut the back of the handle. Thanks for the videos
Can you suggest where I can find patterns for wood carving knives? I have found several pattern websites; however, these type of knives are not included. Thanks !
very cool got to make me one of these .
Do you sell your carving knives
Thanks!!
Hi there, having watched this video I've checked my oven for temperature settings, would a higher temp be better over 500f ?
No. The temperature for the tempering is critical. If you temper at a higher temp, like 500, the steel will lose more of its hardness. This makes the steel a little more resilient, but you lose some edge-holding ability. This would be good it you were making a screwdriver or an axe, but for very small cutting tools like these, my suggestion is to follow the tempering formula I provided in the video exactly.
Patrick I’m new to your channel. What layout program do you use on your computer?
CorelDraw and Adobe Illustrator cost $$$$. There is a free, Adobe Illustrator alternative called 'Inkscape'. Totally free. Has all the same tools as the two vector drawing programs that are expensive. Inkscape can open PDF, Illustrator files and some CorelDraw files.
Hi Patrick!
Love these videos. The best on the subject I have found so far.
With regards to you carbide tool process. Seems like the lap disk could be applied to making knife blades as well or are the steel versions in your video better?
just a heads up, you might want to move your mic away from your mouth, theres a bit of lip smacking
Ml