Hang my utility trailer from the garage ceiling.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
- Utility trailer is connected to four cables running through pulleys attached to the ceiling. The cables are connected to an electric hoist which is used to raise and lower the trailer. Once the trailer is raised, straps are used to cradle the trailer and suspend it from the ceiling which removes the stress on the cables, pulleys, and hoist.
It's really cool to see that you can do it, but it would be even cooler to see HOW you did it. Looks like a great idea!
Right
No shit mormon
@@KelleyMobileDetail You Antifa bitches are hilarious.
@@twotwentyswift And there he is, the one tool who has to leave political comment about anything he sees.
Safety tip: Add some string or something simular to your holding straps to throw under trailer before lifting. It will allow you access to them without walking under trailer. A #1 No,No
Also for other readers willing to do a similar DIY project. Don't assume house structure can support weight.
Nice job!!
oh man...you get husband of the year award for designing and making this system. This is exactly what I need...darn trailer is taking up my carport space and with 2 cars, its a challenge. Ever think of packaging and selling this? Id totally buy it for $400! Way to go...!
Everyone is saying: “Why not just leave it outside? A lot of work for nothing” That’s a snowbear utility trailer approx year 2000-2005. Probably over ten years old at time of the video upload, yet looks like he just bought it yesterday. I have the exact same trailer and have always left it outdoors. Mines covered in surface rust, all safety/warning stickers long fell off, non of the bolts come out, nothing slides/goes in place like it used to PLUS it looks like it’s a 100yrs old. No comparison storing in a garage vs outside, even with tarps and precautions. Very well done! I will have to consider doing this with my next trailer. Thanks for sharing!
Storing it inside is one thing, but its the weight consideration that is a concern.
Now this is a smart guy, who knows how to use a pulley system so one end doesn't go up before the other. He also knows to put a stout suspension system under the trailer so his hoist cable (and gearing) isn't solely responsible for keeping the thing from falling down. Way to go!
Nice set up. I would suggest attaching a rope or something to your safety straps before raising the UT. Have it sit on the same side as the anchors so you will not have to go under the UT once it is suspended.
The trailer cost me $700 from Home Depot, got it about 8 years ago. I made the lifting system for about half that ($350), but I definitely get your point. It's not what I would classify as cheap, but that trailer took up one of my garage stalls for many years and trust me having that 3rd stall available for my workshop is priceless. The most expensive component is probably the hoist which cost me about $120 on sale at Harbor Freight Tools.
Nice job! The safety straps are a great idea!
This is exactly what I am looking for. Any way that you can either add onto this video or make another video showing exactly how you have the entire set up done? It would be advantageous to not only me but I would bet the entire TH-cam community that will be looking at this video. A complete video would also boost up your ratings.
Thanks for making the video. I'm working on one for lifting my ATVs and motorcycles, and needed to "see" a similar set up in action. Wish you'd shown the mechanics of the pulleys & winch setup, but it seems pretty simple to understand. I already have a manual gear drive winch, and I think I can adapt it to work with an electric drill. "Maybe", I'll see. Looks like I just need to shop for 8 pulleys.
Very good. Been thinking of doing the same for a couple of years. These utility trailers generally sit in people’s yards looking nasty.
Genius👍👍👍 He walks away like a boss at the end. 🤣
Nice job Tony. Do you happen to have any instructions or video of how things are put together or the hoist models , how many are there etc etc. Thanks
Please do another video showing the ceiling and all the components. Add a parts list in the comments and I think a lot of people will be very thankful.
Very smart...I'd do that...and everyone would wonder how I thought of it...kudos to you dude!!!!
Did you do anything to reinforce whatever's holding up the weight? Most new homes are built using trusses in the garage attic that can't handle much additional load. This trailer has got to be several hundred pounds.
Watching this video reminds me why I will never go into a Walmart during a snow storm. They hang all the overstock bicycles from one flat roof bar joist over the toy department. And what's worse. They hang from the truss bottom chord. Add the possibility of a 100 year rain/snow load with the bikes and it spells disaster.
Most homes aren't designed for that kind of additional load. That garage has a very big clear span. No simple truss or ceiling joist reinforcement members are going to distribute that load over to the supporting walls. You may spread it across a larger area but you'll never get the load where it belongs - on the wall.
It's a matter of time when my kids and their friends would start using that trailer as a gymnastic apparatus. And a deadfall. Don't think a homeowners Insurance policy would cover that. I'm actually thinking of building a small lenclosed area in the side of the house to park my 5ft x 8ft trailer on its side.Cementing two 5.5 ft poles from ground level 8 1/2 feet apart. Then attaching a winch and chains to hoist it on its side. Seems like an easy build plus it will leave a small footprint since it is a flat bed trailer.
I'm thinking the same thing with my hay elevator.
Can you provide info on what the setup looks like from above? A single hoist, but how is it connected to 4 independent points?
Awesome! thanks for sharing. A bit much with the chains looping down like that. I would just drop a section of chain just to have the height option. You know if too low then just go a link or two higher, or if too high go a link or two lower. But all in all it is damn good work.
Josh Szamrey even so the division of load to two joists can be done higher with chain forming a Y. However you nullify any additional strength when you use just a 500lb WLL snap hook. You know what they say about the weakest link.
I like this idea. I want to move my mower and pressure washer off the floor.
nice video, could you please make the video to show how you set up for pulley, how high is your garage? thank you very much,
Your husband has to be totally stoked!
Nice work....i'd like to do that in my garage to remove the top of my scout II
what is the weight of the trailer and did you just bolt to the ceiling joists?
On the straps you use for resting weight, there looks like a D ring of some kind. Where did you get those? I have the straps but they didn't come with rings at the end.
Also, what did you use for weights to handle no-load tension?
Thanks! Great project.
Bravo........A tidy man and his garage !
kids we're goin for a ride. Everyone Hop in the trailer! - Quiet time
Nice job you need a video on how you made it and what supplies you used
Clever idea, but aren't the tires at "smack-yer-head" height?
Love the idea concept however it also has some flaws * which in your case it worked out 👍 great* But to someone else taking on this project it can be a recipe for dangerous situation. The first would be not knowing if your ceiling joist can support the additional weight , as a reminder there's a floor in some cases above the garage so factor in the weight up there and now putting more strain will either sag the floor/ ceiling above and or break away something.
And lastly if anything broke away and that trailer came down you can have some serious damage to your car and or anyone below.
what size rope cable did you use? 1/8?
That is awesome. Great job
having it halfway up will allow easy maintenance without straining your back.
What's your ceiling height in that garage? Looks to be probably 10 ft.
Very cool idea!
Can you tell me how you did the pulley system? Thanks, great idea!
There are 4 pulleys on the ceiling above the four corners of the trailer which are securely attached to ceiling joists (2x10's). Another 4 pulleys are near the ceiling by the wall (total of 8 pulleys). There are 4 cables. Each cable goes from a corner of the trailer straight up to the ceiling and over to a pulley by the wall and then down the wall and connects to the hoist (each cable uses 2 pulleys and all 4 cables attach to the single hoist hook). The hoist pulls down on the four cables and the four corners of the trailer go up.
Hanging kinda low. I would bring it right up against the ceiling. I'm not sure what it means to head bump a tire during a panic.
your garage, is it a rafting or joist built system
For the straps, I just used U-bolts that I got from the hardware store (strong steel, not zinc). For the weights, I went to a 2nd hand fitness store (Play It Again Sports) and bought 4 used 2.5 lbs. plates with small center holes.
How about the actually pully set up
I have now seen about 50 of these installations by different people. I want to do one for my HF trailer with some wood, etc. on it about 600-700 lbs. maybe. The issue is THAT I CANNOT GET IN AN ATTIC TO ADD EXTRS BRACES, ETC. Since there is a room above my garage. I have thought of spreading the load with a long 2x6 or 2x8 bolted across several joists. Maybe even a steel beam across several joists on each side (my joist run from left to right not front to back. Any opinions??
John Panzavecchia I'm not an engineer by any means but that sounds reasonable to me. Just make sure you have a safety system in place.
I am already half way completed. For each pair of pulleys (front/rear) I have them bolted through a eight foot long 2"x8" board. That mean that I am grabbing 7 of my rafters/joists that are spaced 12" apart with two 5" lag bolts in each one and 3 of those lag bolts at the joists at either side of each pulley. I also painted the boards for a clean look since all is exposed and I am using 3/16" vinyl coated cable. My 1,100lb hoist will arrive Tuesday and I will have everything else done by then. I think it will work perfect.
John Panzavecchia how has it held up? Any changes?
Very creative!
Do yourself a favour, walk around the trailer for the straps, not under it. Would only take one component failure to give you one hell of a headache.
Haha he'll be alright
Yeah, with that aircraft cable and malleable clips rig... none of which can be rated for overhead anything. Additionally there is a loud snap at 0:49 that looks to be from a carabiner or some similar piece of rigging attached to the trailer for the attachment of the winch line. That snapping is going to wear on that part and it is going to create shock loads on that rig. If you seriously plan to have this system not fail you need to make sure you are pulling at the correct angles on the correct rigging, rated for overhead lifting at the given force. I would be willing to bet the lovely lady that white bike belongs to would urge the same if she had rigging knowledge. Wire ropes and hardware fail, winches as well, loads drop and lives are needlessly lost in rigging errors. It's one thing to lift a bike into your rafters, it's quite another to get underneath a lethal load supported by rigging. Get a long rod with a hook on the end and reach for that strap on the other side. I don't want to further misguide you but I would be looking into shouldered eye bolts mounted vertically as anchor points instead of a movable clip at the base of the trailer wall. Just be careful and do some professional research on this, and you have to stop going under that trailer at all costs.
Lighten up, I think he knows what he is doing
What model hoist is that tony
Are those 2x6 boards on the wall helping to support the extra weight on the ceiling joist?
Bruce Prather No, but those boards are very important because they support the hoist which is the force pulling down and lifting the trailer up. Once the trailer is up, all of the weight is supported by the straps attached to the ceiling joists.
Bruce Prather
Are those 2x6 boards on the wall helping to support the extra weight on the ceiling joist?
'
4X6 or 4X8 stud wood is better and strong than 2X6 stud wood...
2X4 is a so weak...
never let hoist heavy weight on the weak ceiling
that's super cool thanks for sharing!
That's so cool, you did a great job! Not only does it work, but it looks nice too. Gosh I wish more guys were like this! You know --- quality craftsmanship instead of the "Getter Done" mentality. Guys like that just don't exist anymore... Oh and the guys reading this and thinking, "I know I do quality work!" ....really? Do you reeeeeeallly.???... In your toolbox are Silicone, great stuff foam, duck tape, a stripped screwdriver, small sledge hammer, ball of wire, 3" Deck screws, and utility knifes sitting on top of your; Tape measure, level, t-square, stud finder, drywall anchors, drill/screw bits, and pencils? If so, unless your working with cardboard, your work is probably not quality.
Cool! Well done!
LOL!!! You spent more money on the lifting system than the trailer itself!
rvpgiffords worth it if you don’t have space to park the trailer
Less than a storage unit would cost for half a year
You have to love the, I'm so proud of myself smile.
You make me wish I had a trailer to suspend.
It is hard to see how you setup the lift. Can you make another video showing how you rig the lift. I like your idea. Appreciated.
Great idea, Great job !
Thanx for sharing.
Youre very handy !!!! Nice
That's slick!
why not stand it up on its end
mark stangeland
Doesn’t appear he would be able to stand it on end in that garage. It’s a sight illusion, that trailer is over 13ft total length. I have the exact same trailer. However, that’s a great idea and I hope I’ll be able to do it in my 15ft tall garage. Do you store your trailer on end? Any tips?
I do stand my trailer up in the garage. The tongue's the problem in the length, not the trailer itself. If you have the same trailer, first thing I'd take a look at is just unbolting the tongue as it looks like that might not be hard to do in this case. If that comes off and goes back on fast enough with a socket set, that's your solution; just unbolt the tongue and then use a hoist or come-along to pull the trailer upright and fasten it safely to the wall.
The alternative solution is to make the tongue fold and then most trailers can be stood in a garage.
You can take a lesson from the Harbor Freight folding 4'x8' trailer that stands on casters. I had mine stolen, and decided to downsize to a 40"x48" trailer which stands on it's tail nicely by just adding a 2x4 rear bumper for it to stand on, and some sturdy wall brackets and an 8" bolt to hold the tongue safely vertical. However, most trailer's like this one, would put the tongue too high to stand up. So you need to make the tongue fold as one way of doing it.
The fix for that is what I plan to do to mine to actually extend the tongue by 2" longer by using 2" angle steel on each side of the tongue that runs under and fastens to all the cross members of the trailer. I'll make the tongue then hinge between them with 3 bolts fastening each angle steel through the tongue and over to the other side of it, and through the angle steel on that side. Then I just pull 2 of the bolts and loosen the third a bit and the tongue folds down. Obviously you need the most rearward bolt to be the one that you're hinging so that the tongue drops down to clear the ceiling when you stand it up.
Same thing could be done to the trailer shown in this video. For this trailer I would use 1/4" angle steel that is 2" fastened on each side of the tongue. Each needs to be long enough to extend about 1 or so forward of the box and should cross and bolt to all structural members the length of the trailer (even the rear-most one across the back of the trailer). Such a "sandwiched" tongue has plenty of strength.
The idea is that the "new" total length of the trailer will be the box and these new angle steel pieces, since they let you hinge the original tongue down when standing, to not be part of the overall length anymore. So you just need to measure your box length, and make sure whatever you allow forward of it in angle steel will still clear the ceiling when stood up.
So now just unbolt the original tongue, and drill and bolt it at least 3 places along it's length in between the angle steel pieces. If you're lengthening you may need to splice in some electrical wire. I really like the heat shrink tubing that has hot glue in it now to seal the connection. If concerned still about lateral strength, run some angle steel from the front box corners at a 45 out and weld or bolt them to the angle steel, one on each side.
I'd surely never hoist a trailer as big as shown without WAY WAY exceeding the load and shock capacity of all the materials and cable used...
jjsjeffjjsjeff or get a donkey
HOA can make you put it out eye sight.
Nice job.I like it
1:28 OSHA Violation
The idea is good, but could be higher to hang the head not to knock.
Павел Котов looks like it may hit the garage door then.
Same trailer now,costs, $2300
Should have bought the trailer at harbor freight too.... just sayin.
Great :)
Nice! Thanks.
smart kinda I guess
I'd rather trade in the suv thing for a pickup
+ATK 11 - When my daughter was born in '11. I traded in my 2006 F-150 pickup (Avg 16mpg) for a 2011 Toyota Highlander (avg 20 mpg). and bought a 50" wide 10' long single place snowmobile trailer. I use the trailer to transport my sled, atv and Home cheapo and bLowes runs. Since I have a place to keep my trailer (Outside in summer and inside with Sled on it during the winter). I also have a 26' x 26' garage :D
If I had to again, I'll buy an SUV over a pickup ALL DAY LONG!
The Highlander holds 4 people quite comfortably... does great in the snow, is fun to drive and I even get the 20mpg on the highway when towing my sled or quad...
I agree with the SUV+ trailer combo over pickup. I can fit 8' lumber in my Honda Pilot (and former Jeep GC). And the couple times a year I need to haul something too big for the back of the SUV, I have a trailer that perfectly fits a 4x8 sheet of plywood. 99% of people who buy trucks would be better off with an SUV. Granted, not everyone has room to store a utility trailer.
4x8 drywall fit perfectly in the back of 09-14 Honda Pilots with the 2nd and 3rd row seats down.
My 2013 F150 supercrew cab hauls 4 people, hauls and tows... just putting that out there. :) Last vehicle was an SUV...
An SUV has more daily usable space though unless you are a farmer or construction contractor. It's all weather and dust sealed which you won't get even with a topper (it still gets dusty and you have to always be worried about water leaks.. and they look corny too. When you need more truck-like space, you can use any sort of trailer you want, and it doesn't beat up your vehicle like putting rocks in the back of a truck would.
I'm talking about a real box on frame SUV though, not a crossover that is not nearly as good at towing something real.
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NICE
Cool..
Nah keep it on the ground
wrong trailer
You can go to woodprix if you would like to make it yourself guys.
I'm really sure you can build it yourself. I did this 2 weeks ago thanks to the Woodglut plans.
dangerous if you ask me over kill wtf stand it on end in the corner kids don't do this at home lol.
Punctuation matters.
Probably only the third or fourth video I have bothered to give a thumbs down to, but realistically the title and the bulk of the video led me to be hopeful of a good how to. since the ceiling itself is never shown, the how it was done exactly is absent, making the video a brag, but useless.
..
No way. Park that pos trailer out back