Hey Cam, The thing missing is how to remain safe when lifting...anything..any way. They taught me in safety school that you never position yourself below a lifted object, no matter how heavy. Please be careful. I don’t want to lose my latest binge just as I’m getting caught up. Love the work. I especially like the “how to/not to” videos. NTITAI: You’re one of the few woodworkers I’ve run across that actually works for a living and films it. Good job!
On my 3000 sq ft commercial shop I use the 440 LB HF winches to raise and lower my 16' X 12" Shop doors. The doors are counter balanced with the door spring to about 100 lbs so the winches will lower without having to pull on their ropes unless raised all the way up. Since these doors are opened to different heights for different jobs coming into the shop, these work great as I have to stand there and run the switch to make it go up or down. And I have the garage door tracks marked off for different heights so I will raise it up enough for certain vehicles (Rock Crawler or RV ect) to clear. Love them. I mounted my winches on the shops 8' peremeter railing and ran the cable up, then used the supplied pully to turn the cable down from the top of the door railing and just hooked it to the doors bottom roller bracket. I use them single line, otherwise the door would raise too slow, and be a pain to wait on. Single line is about the same speed as a normal commercial garage door opener. I have several more bigger HF winches mounted on "I" beams with roller trolly carriages to help move material and engines around in the shop. In 14 years I've only replaced 2. And they were both damaged by a lightning stike. I have overhead storage above my machine shop and the HF winch on the trolly is used to store my engine, transmissions & rearend cores up there.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
I used the same hoist you used. I used tracks and rollers for pole barn doors. 2 tracks 6 feet apart run 12 feet wide mounted to all ceiling trusses. I made a 18"x 6' trolley that hangs below with the pole barn door rollers so the trolley moves side to side 12 feet. The trolley has another section of the door track and the hoist is suspended with 2 of the door rollers so it rolls front to back on the trolley. The rollers are rated about 1200 pounds each so they are stronger than the hoist. You could make a 6 foot trolley that would go as far side to side as you want by hanging more tracks. I put it in for pulling the engine and transmission from a old MG Midget. worked great. Rollers run smooth and are nowhere near the rated weights.
Great idea to use tracks and rollers for barn doors. I just need to lift a couple hundred pounds, but multiple times by one person, so this is the solution I need. Front to back and left to right. Though mine will be outside, so I will use a 12 volt winch made for trucks. Thanks!
Thanks for posting that simple oversight. I have a feeling that most would not. It’s nice to see a situation and have a better understanding from someone else’s trials. Most importantly you showed what you did correctly. Your proper harness setup saved you from crushed piggies.
I had all the parts, so I thought. But that bar to mount on the beam, I had to watch this again to find what I needed, and then was able to complete my project today. There were about three key you tube videos that helped me, this was the one that got me over the finish line. thank you
Being a welder building tons of stainless projects. I do the same type of flipping on the table All the time!! I’ve figured out if I put a few clamps on the end of the table, it will keep it from sliding off and let’s you let it down real easy! Just watch when you do that, depending on your setup, you may end up side-pulling on your wench/chain/strap. Just make sure you’re prepared for that just to be safe
As soon as I saw you lifting heavy stuff in your shop I thought of some sort of overhead hoist. Great to see that you're not going to be laying underneath a heavy table now!
Others said it already, most important part of the Vajayo is how things can go very wrong! I am so glad you showed that part !!!! Going to again look up rigging tips. Note: if something says not for overhead lifting it is often not because it is not strong enough to lift the load but how it fails will often be catastophic (sp)? bad and dangerous. I am not the safety police type but it helps when you understand how things might go bad or why you shouldn't do something and if you are going to do it anyway understand the potential danger(s) Nice Vajayo!
The pick point is were your panel is touching down. That means if your wench doesn't move then the table has to center its self under the wench when lifting . If the wench could move it would travel over to the point that is still touching down . Kind of like a plumb bob. And like some folks have said stay out from under the load, that includes the wench.
Just a word of thanks for sharing this. I have a 12' x 4.5' model railroad layout that takes up a lot of area in our finished basement. This is one of the best solutions I've seen, and will use it. Again, thanks.
Those heavy duty green dumpster bags are great for working with slab tables. The yellow straps and attachment points are strong and creates a lift bag for your work, a workbench cover (folded down = workbench dust skirt), a great epoxy dropcloth, and a protective cover for transport. $30 from any box hardware store and can be used for a bunch of projects.... I cut one (2) up to make a rag top camper/toy hauler for my 10' open trailer
Definitely would recommend beefing up the ceiling joists that are affected by the weight of whatever the hoists are lifting. Many houses are constructed using roof trusses and the bottom chord (equals ceiling joist on stick-built home) are usually made of 2x4s rather than 2x8 or 2x10s. But I'd reinforce whatever is up there.
I installed two of these, one for my trailer and one for my kayak.. I am 72 yrs old storing them on the ceiling of my garage saved me from putting them in storage..
Gave the winch and the mount a good test, there was a tremendous amount of force when it dropped. I spent 5-6 years working with structural steel, luckily no major incidents and we always went home alive.
You can create a tell tail by hanging a string from the ceiling with nut or ? on the end to just above the floor if the nut is touching the floor while lifting something heavy than maybe the ceiling is deflecting too much ? also look for cracks in the drywall.
I would go back to adding two more lags to the support as in 1/2” x 6”or more into the joists overhead. I don’t know what’s up, but adding longer works better. Thanks again for your work.
Thanks for sharing! But, my two cents about handling overhead loads if I may: - wear proper protective equipment. A hard safety hat is mandatory as any pre-catastrophyc failure will drop debris first which will be a source of distraction critical for reaction time. Wear safety boots (flip-flops is a no no because as humans we tend to get our foot involved), wear gloves simply because if your hand or finger get stuck you will have some options - never stand within the collapse radius of the load (just add some more cable to the hoist handle, which in your case the buttons are in proximity maybe contact with the load with potential accidental activation) - for a large object like the one you are handling a third gripping point is needed instead o using your body. You could use a rope with some polley system or simply some heavy duty clamp with a rope for safety pivoting from a prudent distance. - for something doubling oand beyond your own body weight get another person to be watching you perform the operation
i have a lift the same company i use it to raise my mowers you should go up in your attic and put some 2 x 8 boards on the rafters and screw or bolt them will keep them a lot stronger helps protect drywall from splitting .
Im not sure if its already been suggested here, but you could consider putting it through a movable pulley and then securing the original hook back onto the secure beam. You would also get finer control with your up/down movements as it seems to move fairly fast.
I cane down to say the same thing. It's a shame our species hadn't worked out a contrivance to easily gain mechanical advantage yet. I don't even know what we'd CALL such a simple machine that would allow one to tackle the problem of hoisting a heavy block of something overhead, maybe just by pulleying on a rope or chain, if only for long enough to lever it into place.
As for the Fail, that was the true test. That what I needed to know on those hoists. I see that it held up great. My dad gave me one and I am eerie on Harbor Freight items. I know that their tools have come a long way. Even though that says Partsman, they are made by the same company and just put a name to it. I am planing to use it to build me a garage elevator lift to help store items in the garage.
I am thinking of building a Barndominium and you gave me an idea to use one of these to lift stuff to the attic area without having to carry it up an attic ladder. Now I just need to think of what other kinds of life threatening heavy lifting I can do to augment my retirement years.
Very timely find for me, I am currently I installing a lift to utilize some attic storage space above my garage wood shop. The struts were the solution to attaching my lift. (the lifts all look exactly the same from harbor freight and amazon). I just have to align it to fit into my opening. I enjoy your videos.
Terminology: A winch and a hoist are two different things. A hoist is for lifting things, and has a mechanical or electric brake to prevent the load from falling (or moving) when the power is removed. A winch may or may NOT (usually not) have a brake and never should be substituted for a hoist. As a crane inspector, if I ever saw a hoist on, say a bridge crane that moved when stopped, it was an instant fail, and the crane was deadlined until the brake was repaired or adjusted. In other words, don't go buy a cheap winch and use it for hoisting. Inspect everything before each day that you're going to use it. Are there broken wires or kinks in the rope? Is the hardware secure? Are there babies playing under the 16" naval gun breach you're trying to lift with a 200lb hoist? (is the area secure?) Never use the hoisting rope as rigging; don't wrap the rope around your load; use slings, spiders, etc. Make sure your rigging will handle what you're going to lift. If your hoisting operation last longer than four hours, contact your friendly nearby IUOE local dispatcher for qualified, highly trained professional crane operators.
One small detail. Loose the "quicklink" in your connection from hook to strap. Get a proper "pear" ring. "Quicklinks" are generally not rated and can easily deform underload and not show signs of failure> This from a professional entertainment rigger. Defying gravity is our stock in trade. :-)
Just a thought, if you screw a 2x4 to one side of your table it will keep the slab from sliding off one end while you let it down. You might also consider putting both of your winches on one controller... maybe even wireless... Sweet video though! thank you for all of the info!
I've had that same winch for 2 years. Never could figure out how to install it. Watched your video and saw that the winch is supposed to come with 2 brackets that hold it onto the track.......and what did I find today while moving boxes around....2 brackets. So, this weekend, I'll try to install the winch in the garage. I have one 14 ft. laminated beam in the middle of the garage. It's made up of 3 2x12 boards fastened (maybe glued) together. Should be strong enough (I hope). This winch is pretty heavy just by itself............Never would have gotten this far if I had not seen your video. Thanks
Cheap trick: cut the side of the winch to run the cable paralell to the ceiling and install several anchor points with rollers to lift stuff wherever you need. This way one winch can lift stuff as far as the cable reaches.
I'm getting a similar setup for my garage. Its almost the same as yours, but I'm having a track built like you see in fab-shops. I'll be able to move the load anywhere. I got into bad accident on the job (Heavy Industrial) so I can't lift anything anymore. I can't get anything out of the bed of my truck. This should give me some of my independence back. Thanks for the video.
i used my milwaukee 18v batteries and a 10k winch for a truck and made a cordless overhead crane with the battery mounted to the wall of my shop. i originally set it up for portable easy to set up winch for setting prebuilt stairs and large over head beams
I would be careful trusting Lag bolts into ceiling joist. I would suggest that you build some type of support that you can put up into the ceiling to spread the load as far as you can and through bolt your uni strut.. Just a suggestion
With those kinds of builds, need a semi-vertical rack in the back of the truck like they use for panes of glass, so it should be easier to load and to remove at the customer's location.
Thx for this video! I used all of your recommendations including the same model of winch/hoist, the type of screws, bolts and the Track that mounts to the ceiling as well. I am using this set up as a lift to raise and lower my hardtop on my Jeep Wrangler. I am very pleased with the install.
You can also make two jigs that clamp to the ends of the slab that will rotate . Kinda of like a car rotisserie . That way no need for straps , pulling ... pushing etc. only it’s supported of the hooks not to a base frame like a car rotisserie .
Did you think about putting the hoist on a rolling track? Like the one that works with 1 5/8" Unistrut. I'm thinking of putting that hoist in my shop but I need it to move from one end of my shop to the other in order to make it functional for me. I'm wondering if that style hoist is suitable for that...
I just picked one of these up. Where did you get the steel tubing to mount the hoist to? Trying to figure out what the weight rating is on those steel tubings.
Hmm... only just started the video, but a little research beforehand would have told you the difference between a winch (horizontal loads, unbraked) and a hoist (vertical loads, braked)... but luckily, you chose the correct one to use! Ok, so winches are quite high geared, so whatever load probably would have come down slowly enough not to cause injury... but it would have been quite an interesting video figuring out why your loads hit the deck every time you let go of the 'up' button! Cool channel... first time viewer... off to check out some more of your vids...
How did you decide on how many 3/8 lags to install? I'm going into a 2x4 sheetrocked ceiling joist. 4' unistrut and 300 lbs max. with your style winch. Hoisting my 4x4 snow/summer tires with wheels at almost 100 lbs each. I stack them in the corner of the shop. I have a dually so 6 tires. Can I get away with NOT sandwiching that 2x4? Any and all direction for info is greatly appreciated.
I assume you know it’s not the capacity of the winch but the capacity of the hardware attached to the winch? It all looked heavy duty so I hope you are safe.
2 years later, how are the hoists? I'm thinking about taking on this project in the coming weeks, shopping brands. Of course want a quality product. Love the content 😊
I mounted mine several years ago on a heavy duty barn door tracks and the dollies lets me move the winch several feet. They support very heavy doors and the 10 foot lengths can be butted to make a very long track. Also when turning something over, you need to hold the lower side - like to a eyelet in the ceiling. Save a change of clothes too.
Nice video, and helpful. It was good to caution people not to buy a 12- or 24-volt ATV winch. I would expand that to say you don’t want any kind of WINCH for this application. Winches are not designed for lifting and can be DANGEROUS if used as such. A winch does not have the braking mechanism needed to prevent the load from dropping. For lifting, you want a HOIST. These terms are often used synonymously, but they are two different things.
Just recently came across your channel, liking the work. I started with some of the newer videos, and couldn’t help but think how bad I wished YOU had a gantry crane or a jib crane in your shop, but it looks like this is your old place. Hope you have plans for somethin in the new spot. Many even a trailer with winch to help transport
very cool man.. you might want to consider some sort of movable bumper setup for when you're flipping the tables to avoid those slides! not sure if you already figured something out.
I just bough a smaller version of this to store my jeep hardtop at the top of my garage in the summer, would I need to add extra security to leave it for months at a time? I know it's never safe to be underneath something suspended in the air. I was thinking maybe a backup cable lag bolted to the ceiling to go through the straps as well
I have one of these. Used it for my Jeeps hardtop. Sold the Jeep, kept this though. Planned to use it in my shop for other things. Great minds think alike I guess.
I have a similar setup in my garage using a dual hoist system, (I’m using chain hoists with slower lifting speed, more predictable) not sure what steps you’ve taken since this video but have you considered merging the two pendants into one and raising the red block limit switch actuator on the hoist mounted higher so both hoist hooks stop at the same level? I am using a master pendant system with a toggle switch (A, B, A+B) then I hooked up the pendant to a tool self retraction system so I (or a car) don’t bump into it and it doesn’t get damaged when not in use, a small fiber cord on the bottom of it to pull it down and a carabiner to release it from the retractor if I need the full length of the cord if I’m laying on the floor for example.
I was thinking what if you just cut off the second remote and rewire to the first one, given that if you're only going to lift at the same height at all times, rather than wiggling between two remotes. Thanks for sharing this video, I was looking for something similar to this.
Nice video, just have to say it is about using a w I N c h not a w E N c h! A wench is a buxom serving maid! Happy if you make a video about that as well!
I came by because I was going to someday, if I get a tiny house, is to hang a bed from the cieling to save space. Lower it to use as a bed, then raise it up when not in use. The trick is, is to pick the bed up by the corners evenly. I don't expect a answer how, but thats what I'm thinking about.
A wench to wench up the wench ! Got it. lol I've just bought one and wondered how to get this up to the roof level over my garage. I've had an elevator (dumb waiter) to lift "everything" into storage over my garage as there is a lot of room up there and i've added sheets of plywood. But these wenches are heavy, and my back isn't what it once was...
I really appreciate this video because I had just cooked up the same idea for lifting a fifth wheel hitch out of my truck. The first time I did it by hand taught me that I'm lucky I didn't get hurt (180lbs, ouch). I bought a really similar Amazon electric hoist, and I was wondering about using unistrut for the mounting bar. Thank you very much!
@@BlacktailStudio In doing a little more research, I discovered they make trolleys that roll inside the unistrut, so I can move the hoist around on a track. Super cool. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video, it has set me on the right path!
I am looking at getting a winch for this exact purpose. I only make farmhouse tables so much lighter. have you tried flipping a table top with just one winch? Thinking it can be done. Maybe I should get straps for both ends then just use the winch in the middle. Thoughts?
Blacktail, I bought the similar winch. Install was different but worked fine. Question: What is the purpose of the RED BUTTON with arrows on it on the controller? I installed just yesterday havent had time to play with it too much yet. Is that a vari speed potentiometer for slowing movement down for precise increments of lift?
This probably has been posted in the comments already but I would wire one of the controllers to "sync" both hoists. This would allow you to activate both hoists with one controller or use them separately.
@@BlacktailStudio be hard to do unless you perfectly sync the limit switches inside the hoist. What would be ideal is to use one hoist on a mono-beam and a dedicated spreader bar.
i know this vid is old but wireless remote would help you so much...get a 4 channel wireless and can set it up for 1 remote and control both. If you look into it im sure you can get a remote that will power both at the same time if you wanted or just getto wire up a 6 channel having 5 and 6 be both winches.
Great stuff. I think the only different thing I would doo is install it with the double pulley method to slow down the speed. It would also give you more lifting capacity. Yes, I know it's a more complicated installation, but it gives you much better control. However, a fast lift is great for things like bales of hay or logs or whatever.
What do you call the sheet/material you've got on your workbench at 2:00 - I could do with one in my workshop, but I can't seem to find what to search for.
Not to nit pick but you installed a hoist not a winch. There is a difference. Winches are not meant for lifting only horizontal pulls. Enjoyed the video. Plan on something similar myself.
Watch the big rig tow trucks. They do the same thing but with giant loaded trailers. I think all you need is two more safety straps for the bottom edge of the table top, instead of trying to balance the edge on something like that styrofoam.
i've noticed 110v seems most common in the USA. we have 220v and 380v here (sweden) and 110v only in bathrooms, for razors, toothbrushes etc. is 110v sufficient for welders, plasma cutters and the like?
From an old iron worker. Always stay over your load. Love your tables. Keep it up. TKS.
Hey Cam,
The thing missing is how to remain safe when lifting...anything..any way. They taught me in safety school that you never position yourself below a lifted object, no matter how heavy.
Please be careful. I don’t want to lose my latest binge just as I’m getting caught up. Love the work. I especially like the “how to/not to” videos.
NTITAI: You’re one of the few woodworkers I’ve run across that actually works for a living and films it. Good job!
no matter how light...
On my 3000 sq ft commercial shop I use the 440 LB HF winches to raise and lower my 16' X 12" Shop doors. The doors are counter balanced with the door spring to about 100 lbs so the winches will lower without having to pull on their ropes unless raised all the way up. Since these doors are opened to different heights for different jobs coming into the shop, these work great as I have to stand there and run the switch to make it go up or down. And I have the garage door tracks marked off for different heights so I will raise it up enough for certain vehicles (Rock Crawler or RV ect) to clear. Love them. I mounted my winches on the shops 8' peremeter railing and ran the cable up, then used the supplied pully to turn the cable down from the top of the door railing and just hooked it to the doors bottom roller bracket. I use them single line, otherwise the door would raise too slow, and be a pain to wait on. Single line is about the same speed as a normal commercial garage door opener. I have several more bigger HF winches mounted on "I" beams with roller trolly carriages to help move material and engines around in the shop. In 14 years I've only replaced 2. And they were both damaged by a lightning stike. I have overhead storage above my machine shop and the HF winch on the trolly is used to store my engine, transmissions & rearend cores up there.
That’s pretty trick!
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
I used the same hoist you used. I used tracks and rollers for pole barn doors. 2 tracks 6 feet apart run 12 feet wide mounted to all ceiling trusses. I made a 18"x 6' trolley that hangs below with the pole barn door rollers so the trolley moves side to side 12 feet. The trolley has another section of the door track and the hoist is suspended with 2 of the door rollers so it rolls front to back on the trolley. The rollers are rated about 1200 pounds each so they are stronger than the hoist. You could make a 6 foot trolley that would go as far side to side as you want by hanging more tracks. I put it in for pulling the engine and transmission from a old MG Midget. worked great. Rollers run smooth and are nowhere near the rated weights.
Great idea to use tracks and rollers for barn doors. I just need to lift a couple hundred pounds, but multiple times by one person, so this is the solution I need. Front to back and left to right. Though mine will be outside, so I will use a 12 volt winch made for trucks. Thanks!
Thanks for posting that simple oversight. I have a feeling that most would not. It’s nice to see a situation and have a better understanding from someone else’s trials. Most importantly you showed what you did correctly. Your proper harness setup saved you from crushed piggies.
Thanks Nuna!
I had all the parts, so I thought. But that bar to mount on the beam, I had to watch this again to find what I needed, and then was able to complete my project today. There were about three key you tube videos that helped me, this was the one that got me over the finish line. thank you
Being a welder building tons of stainless projects. I do the same type of flipping on the table
All the time!! I’ve figured out if I put a few clamps on the end of the table, it will keep it from sliding off and let’s you let it down real easy! Just watch when you do that, depending on your setup, you may end up side-pulling on your wench/chain/strap. Just make sure you’re prepared for that just to be safe
Good call!
Wench brings beers in medieval times. A WINCH is what you hung in the video… you’re still the best TH-camr out there 🤘🏼😜
As soon as I saw you lifting heavy stuff in your shop I thought of some sort of overhead hoist. Great to see that you're not going to be laying underneath a heavy table now!
Others said it already, most important part of the Vajayo is how things can go very wrong! I am so glad you showed that part !!!! Going to again look up rigging tips. Note: if something says not for overhead lifting it is often not because it is not strong enough to lift the load but how it fails will often be catastophic (sp)? bad and dangerous. I am not the safety police type but it helps when you understand how things might go bad or why you shouldn't do something and if you are going to do it anyway understand the potential danger(s) Nice Vajayo!
The pick point is were your panel is touching down. That means if your wench doesn't move then the table has to center its self under the wench when lifting . If the wench could move it would travel over to the point that is still touching down . Kind of like a plumb bob. And like some folks have said stay out from under the load, that includes the wench.
Just a word of thanks for sharing this. I have a 12' x 4.5' model railroad layout that takes up a lot of area in our finished basement. This is one of the best solutions I've seen, and will use it. Again, thanks.
Awesome!
good job, & thanks for showing the "Fail", so others can learn from yor project.
Those heavy duty green dumpster bags are great for working with slab tables. The yellow straps and attachment points are strong and creates a lift bag for your work, a workbench cover (folded down = workbench dust skirt), a great epoxy dropcloth, and a protective cover for transport.
$30 from any box hardware store and can be used for a bunch of projects.... I cut one (2) up to make a rag top camper/toy hauler for my 10' open trailer
Definitely would recommend beefing up the ceiling joists that are affected by the weight of whatever the hoists are lifting. Many houses are constructed using roof trusses and the bottom chord (equals ceiling joist on stick-built home) are usually made of 2x4s rather than 2x8 or 2x10s. But I'd reinforce whatever is up there.
Good call!
Better too strong than not strong enough.
I installed two of these, one for my trailer and one for my kayak.. I am 72 yrs old storing them on the ceiling of my garage saved me from putting them in storage..
Gave the winch and the mount a good test, there was a tremendous amount of force when it dropped. I spent 5-6 years working with structural steel, luckily no major incidents and we always went home alive.
Definitely a sporty test
You can create a tell tail by hanging a string from the ceiling with nut or ? on the end to just above the floor if the nut is touching the floor while lifting something heavy than maybe the ceiling is deflecting too much ? also look for cracks in the drywall.
I would go back to adding two more lags to the support as in 1/2” x 6”or more into the joists overhead. I don’t know what’s up, but adding longer works better. Thanks again for your work.
Thanks for sharing! But, my two cents about handling overhead loads if I may:
- wear proper protective equipment. A hard safety hat is mandatory as any pre-catastrophyc failure will drop debris first which will be a source of distraction critical for reaction time. Wear safety boots (flip-flops is a no no because as humans we tend to get our foot involved), wear gloves simply because if your hand or finger get stuck you will have some options
- never stand within the collapse radius of the load (just add some more cable to the hoist handle, which in your case the buttons are in proximity maybe contact with the load with potential accidental activation)
- for a large object like the one you are handling a third gripping point is needed instead o using your body. You could use a rope with some polley system or simply some heavy duty clamp with a rope for safety pivoting from a prudent distance.
- for something doubling oand beyond your own body weight get another person to be watching you perform the operation
i have a lift the same company i use it to raise my mowers you should go up in your attic and put some 2 x 8 boards on the rafters and screw or bolt them will keep them a lot stronger helps protect drywall from splitting .
Im not sure if its already been suggested here, but you could consider putting it through a movable pulley and then securing the original hook back onto the secure beam. You would also get finer control with your up/down movements as it seems to move fairly fast.
Ya, that would be super helpful
I cane down to say the same thing. It's a shame our species hadn't worked out a contrivance to easily gain mechanical advantage yet. I don't even know what we'd CALL such a simple machine that would allow one to tackle the problem of hoisting a heavy block of something overhead, maybe just by pulleying on a rope or chain, if only for long enough to lever it into place.
As for the Fail, that was the true test. That what I needed to know on those hoists. I see that it held up great. My dad gave me one and I am eerie on Harbor Freight items. I know that their tools have come a long way. Even though that says Partsman, they are made by the same company and just put a name to it. I am planing to use it to build me a garage elevator lift to help store items in the garage.
Sounds awesome!
I am thinking of building a Barndominium and you gave me an idea to use one of these to lift stuff to the attic area without having to carry it up an attic ladder. Now I just need to think of what other kinds of life threatening heavy lifting I can do to augment my retirement years.
Very timely find for me, I am currently I installing a lift to utilize some attic storage space above my garage wood shop. The struts were the solution to attaching my lift.
(the lifts all look exactly the same from harbor freight and amazon). I just have to align it to fit into my opening.
I enjoy your videos.
Thanks Robert!
Terminology: A winch and a hoist are two different things. A hoist is for lifting things, and has a mechanical or electric brake to prevent the load from falling (or moving) when the power is removed. A winch may or may NOT (usually not) have a brake and never should be substituted for a hoist. As a crane inspector, if I ever saw a hoist on, say a bridge crane that moved when stopped, it was an instant fail, and the crane was deadlined until the brake was repaired or adjusted. In other words, don't go buy a cheap winch and use it for hoisting.
Inspect everything before each day that you're going to use it. Are there broken wires or kinks in the rope? Is the hardware secure? Are there babies playing under the 16" naval gun breach you're trying to lift with a 200lb hoist? (is the area secure?)
Never use the hoisting rope as rigging; don't wrap the rope around your load; use slings, spiders, etc. Make sure your rigging will handle what you're going to lift.
If your hoisting operation last longer than four hours, contact your friendly nearby IUOE local dispatcher for qualified, highly trained professional crane operators.
One small detail.
Loose the "quicklink" in your connection from hook to strap. Get a proper "pear" ring. "Quicklinks" are generally not rated and can easily deform underload and not show signs of failure>
This from a professional entertainment rigger. Defying gravity is our stock in trade. :-)
Just a thought, if you screw a 2x4 to one side of your table it will keep the slab from sliding off one end while you let it down. You might also consider putting both of your winches on one controller... maybe even wireless... Sweet video though! thank you for all of the info!
I've had that same winch for 2 years. Never could figure out how to install it. Watched your video and saw that the winch is supposed to come with 2 brackets that hold it onto the track.......and what did I find today while moving boxes around....2 brackets. So, this weekend, I'll try to install the winch in the garage. I have one 14 ft. laminated beam in the middle of the garage. It's made up of 3 2x12 boards fastened (maybe glued) together. Should be strong enough (I hope). This winch is pretty heavy just by itself............Never would have gotten this far if I had not seen your video. Thanks
That’s so good
We used zip ties to hold the winch while bolting it. Helped quite a bit!
Cheap trick: cut the side of the winch to run the cable paralell to the ceiling and install several anchor points with rollers to lift stuff wherever you need.
This way one winch can lift stuff as far as the cable reaches.
Thank you for posting this, we can learn by seeing how things like this can happen and gain better understanding of how things work, or don't.
Spreader bar with a center lift point and shorter slings from each end would be a great idea for heavy items
Good call!
I'm getting a similar setup for my garage. Its almost the same as yours, but I'm having a track built like you see in fab-shops. I'll be able to move the load anywhere. I got into bad accident on the job (Heavy Industrial) so I can't lift anything anymore. I can't get anything out of the bed of my truck. This should give me some of my independence back. Thanks for the video.
Did you take any pics or details down? I'm thinking of something similar.
i used my milwaukee 18v batteries and a 10k winch for a truck and made a cordless overhead crane with the battery mounted to the wall of my shop. i originally set it up for portable easy to set up winch for setting prebuilt stairs and large over head beams
Identical to the one at Harbor Freight. Same price, too. I've had mine for 10 years, still works great.
I would be careful trusting Lag bolts into ceiling joist. I would suggest that you build some type of support that you can put up into the ceiling to spread the load as far as you can and through bolt your uni strut.. Just a suggestion
Yeah, it’s the part I’m least comfortable with
My heart dropped when that slab fell off the table. Moments like that remind u why u have to be extra careful.
Imagine my heart when it dropped
@@BlacktailStudio One word. terrifying lol
With those kinds of builds, need a semi-vertical rack in the back of the truck like they use for panes of glass, so it should be easier to load and to remove at the customer's location.
Good call
I'm doing a similar set up for my bronco top remover.
Thx for this video! I used all of your recommendations including the same model of winch/hoist, the type of screws, bolts and the Track that mounts to the ceiling as well. I am using this set up as a lift to raise and lower my hardtop on my Jeep Wrangler. I am very pleased with the install.
Oh awesome!
We all have brown trouser moments now and again lol. It's how we learn. Keep it up mate
Thanks!
You can also make two jigs that clamp to the ends of the slab that will rotate . Kinda of like a car rotisserie . That way no need for straps , pulling ... pushing etc. only it’s supported of the hooks not to a base frame like a car rotisserie .
Good idea!
Maybe try to add a removable lip to your bench to catch the slab . Just a thought . love your work. and look forward to your next video.
Did you think about putting the hoist on a rolling track? Like the one that works with 1 5/8" Unistrut. I'm thinking of putting that hoist in my shop but I need it to move from one end of my shop to the other in order to make it functional for me. I'm wondering if that style hoist is suitable for that...
I just picked one of these up. Where did you get the steel tubing to mount the hoist to? Trying to figure out what the weight rating is on those steel tubings.
Should be a link in the description
@@BlacktailStudio I see it now, any idea how much weight that stuff can hold?
Hmm... only just started the video, but a little research beforehand would have told you the difference between a winch (horizontal loads, unbraked) and a hoist (vertical loads, braked)... but luckily, you chose the correct one to use! Ok, so winches are quite high geared, so whatever load probably would have come down slowly enough not to cause injury... but it would have been quite an interesting video figuring out why your loads hit the deck every time you let go of the 'up' button! Cool channel... first time viewer... off to check out some more of your vids...
How did you decide on how many 3/8 lags to install? I'm going into a 2x4 sheetrocked ceiling joist. 4' unistrut and 300 lbs max. with your style winch. Hoisting my 4x4 snow/summer tires with wheels at almost 100 lbs each. I stack them in the corner of the shop. I have a dually so 6 tires. Can I get away with NOT sandwiching that 2x4? Any and all direction for info is greatly appreciated.
I assume you know it’s not the capacity of the winch but the capacity of the hardware attached to the winch? It all looked heavy duty so I hope you are safe.
Did you reinforce the joists in the attic? How much weight can you put across those 5 joists without reinforcing the them from the attic?
2 years later, how are the hoists? I'm thinking about taking on this project in the coming weeks, shopping brands. Of course want a quality product.
Love the content 😊
That’s awesome, I have the same hoist and I want to use one to lift my John boat up to the ceiling
I mounted mine several years ago on a heavy duty barn door tracks and the dollies lets me move the winch several feet. They support very heavy doors and the 10 foot lengths can be butted to make a very long track. Also when turning something over, you need to hold the lower side - like to a eyelet in the ceiling. Save a change of clothes too.
Great idea!
Going to use info from this for my Jeep Hardtop garage hoist! Glad I found it, thank you!
Nice video, and helpful. It was good to caution people not to buy a 12- or 24-volt ATV winch. I would expand that to say you don’t want any kind of WINCH for this application. Winches are not designed for lifting and can be DANGEROUS if used as such. A winch does not have the braking mechanism needed to prevent the load from dropping. For lifting, you want a HOIST. These terms are often used synonymously, but they are two different things.
Just recently came across your channel, liking the work. I started with some of the newer videos, and couldn’t help but think how bad I wished YOU had a gantry crane or a jib crane in your shop, but it looks like this is your old place. Hope you have plans for somethin in the new spot. Many even a trailer with winch to help transport
So how much weight will a Single Ceiling Rafter (2x4) actually be able to safely hold??
very cool man.. you might want to consider some sort of movable bumper setup for when you're flipping the tables to avoid those slides! not sure if you already figured something out.
I just bough a smaller version of this to store my jeep hardtop at the top of my garage in the summer, would I need to add extra security to leave it for months at a time? I know it's never safe to be underneath something suspended in the air. I was thinking maybe a backup cable lag bolted to the ceiling to go through the straps as well
I have one of these. Used it for my Jeeps hardtop. Sold the Jeep, kept this though. Planned to use it in my shop for other things. Great minds think alike I guess.
That’s awesome! Could have used it for my scout
Great video and nice table. I got a simulator winch, and mounted the same way. Great tool for my shop.
He's hoisting that massive gear with flip flops on.
This is an interesting way to narrate a video. But I like it.
I have a similar setup in my garage using a dual hoist system, (I’m using chain hoists with slower lifting speed, more predictable) not sure what steps you’ve taken since this video but have you considered merging the two pendants into one and raising the red block limit switch actuator on the hoist mounted higher so both hoist hooks stop at the same level? I am using a master pendant system with a toggle switch (A, B, A+B) then I hooked up the pendant to a tool self retraction system so I (or a car) don’t bump into it and it doesn’t get damaged when not in use, a small fiber cord on the bottom of it to pull it down and a carabiner to release it from the retractor if I need the full length of the cord if I’m laying on the floor for example.
I haven’t put them up in my new place yet. Good tips though!!
Great idea, but did you buy some wInches, or wEnches??
If you get enough wenches they can help you lift shit, and you won’t need winches.
In any lifting application I would worry about using lag screws into wood instead of through-bolting.
Glad you're safe. That looked like an oh 💩 moment.
I was thinking what if you just cut off the second remote and rewire to the first one, given that if you're only going to lift at the same height at all times, rather than wiggling between two remotes. Thanks for sharing this video, I was looking for something similar to this.
Nice video, just have to say it is about using a w I N c h not a w E N c h! A wench is a buxom serving maid! Happy if you make a video about that as well!
I came by because I was going to someday, if I get a tiny house, is to hang a bed from the cieling to save space. Lower it to use as a bed, then raise it up when not in use. The trick is, is to pick the bed up by the corners evenly.
I don't expect a answer how, but thats what I'm thinking about.
A wench to wench up the wench ! Got it. lol I've just bought one and wondered how to get this up to the roof level over my garage. I've had an elevator (dumb waiter) to lift "everything" into storage over my garage as there is a lot of room up there and i've added sheets of plywood. But these wenches are heavy, and my back isn't what it once was...
I really appreciate this video because I had just cooked up the same idea for lifting a fifth wheel hitch out of my truck. The first time I did it by hand taught me that I'm lucky I didn't get hurt (180lbs, ouch). I bought a really similar Amazon electric hoist, and I was wondering about using unistrut for the mounting bar. Thank you very much!
Nice! Got my unistrut from Home Depot
@@BlacktailStudio In doing a little more research, I discovered they make trolleys that roll inside the unistrut, so I can move the hoist around on a track. Super cool. Thanks again for taking the time to make this video, it has set me on the right path!
That’s why I’m at this video…5th Wheel hitch.
I am looking at getting a winch for this exact purpose. I only make farmhouse tables so much lighter. have you tried flipping a table top with just one winch? Thinking it can be done. Maybe I should get straps for both ends then just use the winch in the middle. Thoughts?
I’ve seen people do it with one
Blacktail, I bought the similar winch. Install was different but worked fine. Question: What is the purpose of the RED BUTTON with arrows on it on the controller? I installed just yesterday havent had time to play with it too much yet. Is that a vari speed potentiometer for slowing movement down for precise increments of lift?
great job not dying! lol looks like an awesome setup
The 120V versions are fast and jerky. If you use a snatch block it will 1/2 the speed and give more control.
This probably has been posted in the comments already but I would wire one of the controllers to "sync" both hoists. This would allow you to activate both hoists with one controller or use them separately.
Good idea!
@@BlacktailStudio be hard to do unless you perfectly sync the limit switches inside the hoist. What would be ideal is to use one hoist on a mono-beam and a dedicated spreader bar.
Seeing the riddled roof, I smiled
Nice work, go beavs!
Just curious how you spanned 5 joist with a 3' piece of Unistrut. Joist are typically 16" OC. You would need over 5" of Unistrut make that span.
I would have liked to see you use one winch and two cables to make raising both ends equally easier.
Fair enough!
i know this vid is old but wireless remote would help you so much...get a 4 channel wireless and can set it up for 1 remote and control both. If you look into it im sure you can get a remote that will power both at the same time if you wanted or just getto wire up a 6 channel having 5 and 6 be both winches.
“quick change of clothes” lol... great video
Love the humor! Great video. Thks
That wasnt a huge fail. Thank goodness!
Should not use lag screw! Don't rely on threads to hold the winch up. Use Bolts and nuts.
Noted!
Simple build, I dig it
Great stuff. I think the only different thing I would doo is install it with the double pulley method to slow down the speed. It would also give you more lifting capacity. Yes, I know it's a more complicated installation, but it gives you much better control. However, a fast lift is great for things like bales of hay or logs or whatever.
Good tips!
When rating on Amazon you should link your video in it is pretty good and would help buyers NOT make similar lift errors.
Oh good call!
"I needed a winch to winch up my winch" - Nice.
Hi.. What do you think about putting the hoist on a wall and add snatch block on the ceiling?
Oh maybe
What do you call the sheet/material you've got on your workbench at 2:00 - I could do with one in my workshop, but I can't seem to find what to search for.
Not to nit pick but you installed a hoist not a winch. There is a difference. Winches are not meant for lifting only horizontal pulls. Enjoyed the video. Plan on something similar myself.
Sounds a lot like nit picking 😉
Is there a way to combine the 2 controls to one?
I'm so glad i find this channel!
It's very inspiring and helpful to me.
Keep it up and thank you!
Thanks Istvan!
Watch the big rig tow trucks. They do the same thing but with giant loaded trailers. I think all you need is two more safety straps for the bottom edge of the table top, instead of trying to balance the edge on something like that styrofoam.
Where did you get the brackets from? I don't see a link for those I bought the winch and it didnt come with them
Did you figure out how to sync both Hoists to use 1 control or to be able to operate both at the same time?
I didn’t
i've noticed 110v seems most common in the USA. we have 220v and 380v here (sweden) and 110v only in bathrooms, for razors, toothbrushes etc. is 110v sufficient for welders, plasma cutters and the like?
Na, most my big tools are 220. Commercial shops have 480v I believe too
How do you manage the fleet angle for even cable wrapping and unwrapping on the drum?
good idea, thinking of putting the winch on a track so I can move it across the garage back and forth....
That would be ideal
Would love to see various builds with a track spanning a resi garage.