Best tutorial I was able to find on the water pump/ fan clutch upgrade by far!! Completed this today in a few hours. Much appreciation to you, it doesn’t go unrecognized sir.
I am a dumb ass. I have been all over the 6.0 and I didnt know that damn fan shroud would pull out like that. Thanks for posting this video. It will help alot of folks out. Great job
Diesel Tech Ron would have told you to go to Walmart and purchase one of their Hyper Tough 25" pry bars for about $10. Pull back on the belt with your left hand and use the pry bar to lift the tension holding tab into the locked position. That 25" pry bar is one of the top 5-10 tools needed for working on the Ford 6.0L engine. Once you get the hang of it you will use it for all kinds of things. I always have one in the truck. Ron was a little rough with his, he had the experience to know what to do, had the parts to fix things that broke.
I've done exactly what you said an I'm still getting the fanclutch code how do I fix that? I went from the 6.0 to 7.3 fanclutch your video is great it taught me a lot but how do I get rid of the code please help
We have a late 04 with 180k on it. Been 100% reliable because of these types of simple upgrades. Good advice. You’re a great mechanic I’d let you work on my truck.
If you are working alone @ 15:35 you can use the 1/2" drive fit in the square hole close to the pulley and push down to lose the bell tension and lock it.
Thanks so much for this video and your others. I have owned a diesel truck for about 3 weeks now, and have been able to do so much work on it because of these videos! I appreciate the details and video shots of exactly what you’re doing. Great work! I had a leaky radiator so I also updated to the 7.3 fan and also did the blue spring and banjo bolts while I had everything out of the truck. It’s already bulletproofed so the water cooler had already been swapped. I look forward to catching your other videos to see what else I need to spend my money on, lol. Thanks again!
Thanks for showing me several 6.0 tricks. I'd been dreading the next time the belt, tensioner, and idlers needed to be replaced but pulling the shroud and fan should make that a lot easier. Thanks
Watch that thermostat housing o ring, had one start leaking on cold days on my 06, thought it was the coolant pump or the big donut o ring, also the 7.3 fan clutch will set a soft code / pending code due to no wiring being hooked up P0528 comes to mind, also a coolant leak of any amount will cause cavitation
When you were putting the fan assembly back in and it fell through. I couldn’t help but laugh because that’s me. Be gentle be gentle and there it goes! Lol. I like how you improvised with tools on how to get the clutch off. Just goes to show that if you use mechanical abilities you don’t always need the fancy speciality tools
Got some into on that, a lot of owners do that conversion in north Texas due to the high temps and humidity in the summer. I would try extending the clutch wires and just set the clutch off to the side still plugged in. Haven’t tried it myself just a thought.
Thanks , my 04, has 176K on it and the alternator just went so I might as well do it all since I got to get into it anyway! Great video well done. Thanks. PS last time I had my air filter out I just threw away all that junk on the front of it it kept plugging up with snow in the winter anyway and it seems to spool up much quicker!
Hey man ive been a long time viewer, really loving the content lately! I don't wanna seem like one of "those guys" in the comments section and you probably were already thinking of this but it might be a good idea to replace that cold side intercooler pipe with a metal one, ive seen those plastic ones crack and create bad boost leaks. Just a suggestion but keep up the great content!!
Thanks for the support and the comment! Like you said they are prone to failure, I’ve seen it happen plenty of times. It’s definitely something I plan to address along with some other items.
Have you ever seen the plastic water pump impeller chewed up by ripples in the front cover? My front cover has a corduroy pattern that chewed up the impeller. The impeller cracked and caused an overheat condition while traveling 70 mph on a 50Fdeg day with no load.
Is there any way you could throw in some part numbers for the water pump, 7.3 fan clutch and the BP adapter. I have a 2005 6.0 F250 and this video couldn't have come at a better time as I will be replacing my water pump in the near future also.
I am replacing my waterpump with a DieselSite and also replacing my radiator. I noticed you do not have OEM coolant clamps. Any issues with the worm gear style clamps leaking?
Hi my 2003 f250 6.0. I have to spray to start and when is hot I have to spray if not won’t start oil pressure is half way when is start don’t know if is injectors
I was wondering if the 7.3 clutch set up is better than the blue wire mod. I’ve heard of guys tying into the blue wire for the 6.0 fan and grounding it through a switch, therefore being able to control the fan. Is this a better way. I know the blue wire mod is cheaper. Just curious
Luke’s Garage this is a debatable topic. Overall the 7.3 fan clutch lasts longer and is more reliable. The 6.0 one fails frequently, and is also known to catch and destroy the wires. I like the blue wire mod on a working fan clutch. But when the factory 6.0 one fails I opt for the 7.3 clutch conversion. Better for towing, better a/c but can be noisey and affect fuel mileage.
Great video! However I have a major issue getting the fan nut un-seated from the threads. I tried an air hammer on the large fan nut but still no good. Round 2 tomorrow. Any other suggestions?
I was wondering about this myself. I know if the harness gets cut up in the fan it will throw a MIL and can cause the trans not to shift.... So was anything needed to prevent the MIL and keep the trans shifting?
Replaced my coolant pump on my 03 6.0 at 218,000. Had zero pitting on front cover. Smooth like new. Not sure why people say its normal to have pitting in that area.
haleyy68 when the block was being made, ford sent sand through all the cooling passages to make them smooth. They did not do a good job of cleaning afterwards which is why oil cooler fail, because the sand clogs up the cooler passages. This same sand can also get irritated by the water pump spinning and can erode away at the front cover. A second reason that it is common is from cracked egr coolers or headgasket failure. Introducing air bubbles into the cooling system. Again these air bubbles get irritated by the water pump spinning and can eat away at the front cover.
Love your videos bro...very informative, you give just about every detail about the jobs your doing to leave out any guess work. Though I do have a question, will the Moshimito lower temp thermostat help keep these old girls cooler or are those lower temp thermostats a waste of time? Thanks in advance for your time and your help.
Damn nice videos because of watching your videos I want to have a 6.0 buy a used one and start to fixer. On a regular build let’s say normal engine how much is to fix? And another thing has anyone done a swap on a excursion v10 to 6.0 how much would it be and do you have any information on websites that have the kits. Because if I have thought of it somebody has done it your info will be appreciated.
Question for you. I did this to my truck and at times it always stays engaged. Even when temps are well below freezing. Or when the motor or ambient temps are cool. Any idea why this would be doing this?
So is this normal then? I swapped in the Hayden 7.3 fan clutch and it stays engaged all the time. Definitely keeps my temps down, but the noise and slight power loss is a drag. I would like to know if this is normal though before I put another one in it.
Great video.. I bought an 04 Excursion 6.0 to tow my Jeep to wheeling events around the country. I noticed it was pretty loud when the RPMs were up it got loud.. Fan clutch was stuck engaged.. spinning non-stop. Faster you go the louder it to. Luckily I started looking on TH-cam and seeing everyone doing the 7.3 conversion. So question.. When you go mechanical fan clutch what do you do w/ the wiring? If it’s unplugged will it keep sending a code?
@@LeftLaneDiesels so the only way you'll see the code is with a scan tool when you check for other codes that throw "Check" engine light? Where abouts are you in Michigan? I was born and raised there around Davison area. Thanks for the information.
Great “how to” video! I have a ‘05 F350 that I use to tow my 30’ Travel Trailer. Been thinking about changing out the water pump & fan clutch as a preventative maintenance measure. I have the same rip on my driver’s side seat. I was wondering how much yours cost to repair? Thanks for all you do making your videos!
It will set what is known as a “soft code”. Meaning when you pull codes with a scanner, it will have a code indicator the fan speed sensor is low. Soft codes, however, do not activate the check engine light.
Hey bro was wondering where you ordered the Hayden clutch from what website? I just ordered my water pump from dieselsite and bpd adapter if you can let me knw I would really appreciate it thanks again
Any issues with that Dieselsite water pump? Still running strong? I'm getting ready to change mine out debating between that and BPD which costs four times as much. Also I'm looking at ordering the Hayden fan clutch and conversion adapter off of Amazon. How did that work for you? Thanks for the great video!
I have worked on Ford E450 6.0L Ford diesel engines for years in our fleet for mass transit operations. I can tell you that there is a V ref power wire, wiring to the transmission TFT sensor, of course your fan speed signal wire, ground wire and a power wire all in that same connector. You unplug that connector and you will be messing with transmission temperatures. This is cooling strategy controlled by your PCM. The TCM will send information to the PCM (his buddy) asking for assistance with controlling transmission temperatures. Of course this is a soft code and Lefty here is correct, it will not turn your check engine lamp on since it has nothing to do with emissions. BUT!!!, this can cause transmission temperature issues galore. As a master journeyist mechanic, I would highly recommend not doing this upgrade to your 6.0 Ford truck if you plan on using this for towing. For those of you that have done this... good luck and I hope your transmission holds out for you! And finally, I would only wish this engine (P.O.S. 6.0 Ford Powerstroke) only on my worst of enemies.
@@robroy9793 Yes I agree, if any connector has a sensor wire do not remove. The old clutch might has a heating element to heat up and engage the clutch. Replace the same if damaged, do not down grade. Electrical vs mechanical, electrical mostly win.
Hey man nice video I’m planning the same upgrade.....wanted your opinion on this water pump verses the bpd one if there’s no diff in performance I can’t see myself paying 200 dollars more for bpd pump that being said how is this pump doing for you? Thanks for the video...
IMO the price you see for the bpd one is due to the fancy paint and engraving. There is no benefit, diesel site one gives you small upgrade, reliability, affordability.
I believe the fan clutch is based solely on the coolant temp. I think it also gets a signal for when a/c is on. Do you have gauges to read what the trans temp is?
The problem I see here is that the A/C and transmission work differently on the 6.0. Both are computer controlled versus the more mechanical system used on the 7.3. I would think you will have much worse air conditioning performance in low speed, hot weather, driving. Ditto for transmission temps in tow haul mode. This will also set a pending code for fan speed not matching commanded. That said, those electronically controlled viscus fan clutches are pretty unreliable.
I live down south, the electrical fan clutch is awful for the AC in slow traffic. It is controlled by engine temp and will cut off the fan if you are idling in traffic and you will sweat until you start moving. Also I plan on using my excursion to haul a travel trailer and the mechanical clutch has proven to do a much better job in cooling. I just did the conversion and wish i had done it sooner. Thanks for all the great videos.
The electronic 6.0 fan clutch gives better mph, it lets the fan free spin when it’s not needed. I’ve never hear of the wires getting caught in the blades. The stock 6.0 fan and clutch are extremely reliable when installed properly. I guess if folks want to down grade then it’s ones own choice, I sure as hell wouldn’t do this mod, seems like a ridiculous thing to do, I mean if you have the cash then fix it, if you don’t, then wait...but don’t Mickey Mouse it man! 👍🏻
Please use antifreeze that's actually for diesels. That green stuff made me cringe. Enough additives and green will work, but just get the good stuff. And yes anticat filters are a must.
Best tutorial I was able to find on the water pump/ fan clutch upgrade by far!! Completed this today in a few hours. Much appreciation to you, it doesn’t go unrecognized sir.
A tip: you can watch movies on flixzone. I've been using them for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.
@Fox Chaim Definitely, have been watching on flixzone} for since december myself :D
I am a dumb ass. I have been all over the 6.0 and I didnt know that damn fan shroud would pull out like that. Thanks for posting this video. It will help alot of folks out. Great job
Another GREAT VIDEO bro! Diesel Tech Ron would be proud of this one for sure!! Love the detail and preparation you put into these videos too!! 👍💥💥
Is there a way to wire the plug so it doesn't through fan clutch codes after the conversion??
I just wanted to thank you for the how to video. I installed mine today .
Diesel Tech Ron would have told you to go to Walmart and purchase one of their Hyper Tough 25" pry bars for about $10. Pull back on the belt with your left hand and use the pry bar to lift the tension holding tab into the locked position.
That 25" pry bar is one of the top 5-10 tools needed for working on the Ford 6.0L engine. Once you get the hang of it you will use it for all kinds of things. I always have one in the truck. Ron was a little rough with his, he had the experience to know what to do, had the parts to fix things that broke.
I've done exactly what you said an I'm still getting the fanclutch code how do I fix that? I went from the 6.0 to 7.3 fanclutch your video is great it taught me a lot but how do I get rid of the code please help
We have a late 04 with 180k on it. Been 100% reliable because of these types of simple upgrades. Good advice. You’re a great mechanic I’d let you work on my truck.
If you are working alone @ 15:35 you can use the 1/2" drive fit in the square hole close to the pulley and push down to lose the bell tension and lock it.
Thanks so much for this video and your others. I have owned a diesel truck for about 3 weeks now, and have been able to do so much work on it because of these videos! I appreciate the details and video shots of exactly what you’re doing. Great work! I had a leaky radiator so I also updated to the 7.3 fan and also did the blue spring and banjo bolts while I had everything out of the truck. It’s already bulletproofed so the water cooler had already been swapped. I look forward to catching your other videos to see what else I need to spend my money on, lol.
Thanks again!
Thanks for showing me several 6.0 tricks. I'd been dreading the next time the belt, tensioner, and idlers needed to be replaced but pulling the shroud and fan should make that a lot easier. Thanks
Is capping off the old fan wiring necessary? Will there be a nuisance light on the dash?
I love your just a dude that makes ford vids great job my dude I went with same set up
You are making any work on 6.0 very easy.Thanks a lot.
Watch that thermostat housing o ring, had one start leaking on cold days on my 06, thought it was the coolant pump or the big donut o ring, also the 7.3 fan clutch will set a soft code / pending code due to no wiring being hooked up P0528 comes to mind, also a coolant leak of any amount will cause cavitation
I wondered about that also. What options are there to prevent the code from being there, other than putting the wired fan clutch back in place?
When you were putting the fan assembly back in and it fell through. I couldn’t help but laugh because that’s me. Be gentle be gentle and there it goes! Lol. I like how you improvised with tools on how to get the clutch off. Just goes to show that if you use mechanical abilities you don’t always need the fancy speciality tools
i like the ole “good and tight, german torque” quote 🤣👌🏻
You do great videos. Lots of help for us that only do it once in a blue mood. Really appreciate it. Thanks for moving slowly thru steps
Just a quick question.. Are there any issues with engine code since the 7.3 clutch will not be plugged into the wiring harness... Thanks for the video
Is.no one answering this question?????
Got some into on that, a lot of owners do that conversion in north Texas due to the high temps and humidity in the summer. I would try extending the clutch wires and just set the clutch off to the side still plugged in. Haven’t tried it myself just a thought.
I have it done on my truck and yes, there are 2 codes thrown by it not being plugged in but they do not turn the CEL on.
Thanks, just completed the fan mod in 3 hours in a massive snow storm. Thanks and sorry from Canada eh.
Thanks , my 04, has 176K on it and the alternator just went so I might as well do it all since I got to get into it anyway! Great video well done. Thanks. PS last time I had my air filter out I just threw away all that junk on the front of it it kept plugging up with snow in the winter anyway and it seems to spool up much quicker!
Awesome video man, love all the explanations you do.
Earned a sub. Love the channel so far. I love the fact that you have 3 6.0's. I wana find me a dually to designate for a tow rig.
Hey man ive been a long time viewer, really loving the content lately! I don't wanna seem like one of "those guys" in the comments section and you probably were already thinking of this but it might be a good idea to replace that cold side intercooler pipe with a metal one, ive seen those plastic ones crack and create bad boost leaks. Just a suggestion but keep up the great content!!
Thanks for the support and the comment! Like you said they are prone to failure, I’ve seen it happen plenty of times. It’s definitely something I plan to address along with some other items.
THANK YOU...that is making me insane. that and green coolant ...but hey
I love my Milwaukee fuel tools,I have the m18 mid torque impact, m12 impact driver, ratchet and drill.
I have a Central Pneumatic Earthquake XT 🙃
What do you do with the unplugged wire and the code that keeps lighting up on your dash.
Where did you plug the electrical outlet that went to the fan clutch? Is there another connector ?
No you just tape it up and tip tie out of the way.
What about electrical connector. Will it set off code for open circuit being not plugged in?
What did you do with the wiring for the plug for the fan clutch?
Have you ever seen the plastic water pump impeller chewed up by ripples in the front cover? My front cover has a corduroy pattern that chewed up the impeller. The impeller cracked and caused an overheat condition while traveling 70 mph on a 50Fdeg day with no load.
When draining the coolant, is there a block plug to drain coolant from the block like on the 7.3?
On passenger side behind starter and on driver side in the same spot. Driver side is easy to get to you from the bottom.
Is there any way you could throw in some part numbers for the water pump, 7.3 fan clutch and the BP adapter. I have a 2005 6.0 F250 and this video couldn't have come at a better time as I will be replacing my water pump in the near future also.
Yep! I include the part numbers in the video as well as a detailed explanation of the parts and install!
@@LeftLaneDiesels I'll have watch a little closer. Thanks for taking the time to put this video together man.
I am replacing my waterpump with a DieselSite and also replacing my radiator. I noticed you do not have OEM coolant clamps. Any issues with the worm gear style clamps leaking?
Really good video. Did you zip tie or cut the old fan clutch wires?
How does the 7.3 clutch setup compare to the Flex A Lite setup?
Hi my 2003 f250 6.0. I have to spray to start and when is hot I have to spray if not won’t start oil pressure is half way when is start don’t know if is injectors
I was wondering if the 7.3 clutch set up is better than the blue wire mod. I’ve heard of guys tying into the blue wire for the 6.0 fan and grounding it through a switch, therefore being able to control the fan. Is this a better way. I know the blue wire mod is cheaper. Just curious
Luke’s Garage this is a debatable topic. Overall the 7.3 fan clutch lasts longer and is more reliable. The 6.0 one fails frequently, and is also known to catch and destroy the wires. I like the blue wire mod on a working fan clutch. But when the factory 6.0 one fails I opt for the 7.3 clutch conversion. Better for towing, better a/c but can be noisey and affect fuel mileage.
After I put the 7.3 fan lot lower temps all around besides my ac and trans help plz I wanna stay with This setup
Great video! However I have a major issue getting the fan nut un-seated from the threads. I tried an air hammer on the large fan nut but still no good. Round 2 tomorrow. Any other suggestions?
Use heat on it. That’s always worked for the stubborn ones.
Hello Left Lane, I performed this upgrade on my 2005 6.0. Now fan runs continuously. Very Loud. Any suggestions on why. Love your videos. Thanks John
11 Months ago on this question. Help me out.
Did you get any check engine light and reduced power not having the electric fan clutch plugged in? Is there a tune to avoid this
I was wondering about this myself. I know if the harness gets cut up in the fan it will throw a MIL and can cause the trans not to shift.... So was anything needed to prevent the MIL and keep the trans shifting?
Replaced my coolant pump on my 03 6.0 at 218,000. Had zero pitting on front cover. Smooth like new. Not sure why people say its normal to have pitting in that area.
haleyy68 when the block was being made, ford sent sand through all the cooling passages to make them smooth. They did not do a good job of cleaning afterwards which is why oil cooler fail, because the sand clogs up the cooler passages. This same sand can also get irritated by the water pump spinning and can erode away at the front cover. A second reason that it is common is from cracked egr coolers or headgasket failure. Introducing air bubbles into the cooling system. Again these air bubbles get irritated by the water pump spinning and can eat away at the front cover.
Outstanding work.
Love your videos bro...very informative, you give just about every detail about the jobs your doing to leave out any guess work. Though I do have a question, will the Moshimito lower temp thermostat help keep these old girls cooler or are those lower temp thermostats a waste of time? Thanks in advance for your time and your help.
Not worth the money! Unless you live in a southern state that never sees below freezing!
@@LeftLaneDiesels thank you for your reply bud.
Thinking of doing this mode, how are the temps?
Damn nice videos because of watching your videos I want to have a 6.0 buy a used one and start to fixer. On a regular build let’s say normal engine how much is to fix? And another thing has anyone done a swap on a excursion v10 to 6.0 how much would it be and do you have any information on websites that have the kits. Because if I have thought of it somebody has done it your info will be appreciated.
Question for you. I did this to my truck and at times it always stays engaged. Even when temps are well below freezing. Or when the motor or ambient temps are cool. Any idea why this would be doing this?
It sounds like either your clutch has been frozen in engaged mode or your radiator is really getting rid of the heat like it's designed to do.
So is this normal then? I swapped in the Hayden 7.3 fan clutch and it stays engaged all the time. Definitely keeps my temps down, but the noise and slight power loss is a drag. I would like to know if this is normal though before I put another one in it.
Great video.. I bought an 04 Excursion 6.0 to tow my Jeep to wheeling events around the country. I noticed it was pretty loud when the RPMs were up it got loud.. Fan clutch was stuck engaged.. spinning non-stop. Faster you go the louder it to. Luckily I started looking on TH-cam and seeing everyone doing the 7.3 conversion. So question.. When you go mechanical fan clutch what do you do w/ the wiring? If it’s unplugged will it keep sending a code?
Disregard about the CODE.. seen one of the other responses and answer you gave about a soft code. thanks.
Do you have a link to the exact water pump you have in this video ?
How long can i drive with my fan clutch wire ripped off?
Great video by the way what would we do without your videos
Hey brother, what year is the new 7.3 fan clutch? I want to order it and do that mod to mine.
What do you do with the other fan wires conector
Electrical tape and zip tie it.
Awesome video!!!!! Thank you so much
Always tighten it up at least as tight as the belt will allow
Will the mechanical fan clutch trigger a check engine light? If so, is there a way to get rid of the light? Thank you
No it won’t!
Thanks for the video, I was curious.....once you do the fan hub conversion, how do you get the fan clutch to quit throwing the clutch code? Thanks
It will throw a soft code, shouldn’t throw a check engine light
@@LeftLaneDiesels so the only way you'll see the code is with a scan tool when you check for other codes that throw "Check" engine light? Where abouts are you in Michigan? I was born and raised there around Davison area. Thanks for the information.
Tk for your help
Nice job 👍👍how long does some thing like that take
Usually can do this in under an hour.
Looking for a water pump for my 6.0 would you recommend it ? Thanks
Great “how to” video! I have a ‘05 F350 that I use to tow my 30’ Travel Trailer. Been thinking about changing out the water pump & fan clutch as a preventative maintenance measure. I have the same rip on my driver’s side seat. I was wondering how much yours cost to repair?
Thanks for all you do making your videos!
The guy repairing my seat said $175. New fabric and foam
Why does that truck have conventional coolant in it? I thought 6.0s used Zyrtec gold.
I'm thinking about getting a 7.3 fan clutch on my 6.0 but do you get a check engine light?
No check engine light
@@LeftLaneDiesels thanks for the information!!👍 And I love your videos keep up the great work!!!!👍💪
It will set what is known as a “soft code”. Meaning when you pull codes with a scanner, it will have a code indicator the fan speed sensor is low. Soft codes, however, do not activate the check engine light.
I noticed my fan was running right when I started it. So must be jacked up then
Good job , thanks
Is that weather pump a 90mm or 100mm
2004.5 and up will be 100mm
Hey bro was wondering where you ordered the Hayden clutch from what website? I just ordered my water pump from dieselsite and bpd adapter if you can let me knw I would really appreciate it thanks again
Tino Santiago I ordered mine off amazon! Cheapest place I found for it!
Any issues with that Dieselsite water pump? Still running strong? I'm getting ready to change mine out debating between that and BPD which costs four times as much. Also I'm looking at ordering the Hayden fan clutch and conversion adapter off of Amazon. How did that work for you? Thanks for the great video!
Does unplugging the fan and using the mechanical clutch throw a code?
It will throw a soft code but no check engine lights. It has no repercussions.
I have worked on Ford E450 6.0L Ford diesel engines for years in our fleet for mass transit operations. I can tell you that there is a V ref power wire, wiring to the transmission TFT sensor, of course your fan speed signal wire, ground wire and a power wire all in that same connector. You unplug that connector and you will be messing with transmission temperatures. This is cooling strategy controlled by your PCM. The TCM will send information to the PCM (his buddy) asking for assistance with controlling transmission temperatures. Of course this is a soft code and Lefty here is correct, it will not turn your check engine lamp on since it has nothing to do with emissions. BUT!!!, this can cause transmission temperature issues galore. As a master journeyist mechanic, I would highly recommend not doing this upgrade to your 6.0 Ford truck if you plan on using this for towing. For those of you that have done this... good luck and I hope your transmission holds out for you! And finally, I would only wish this engine (P.O.S. 6.0 Ford Powerstroke) only on my worst of enemies.
Rob Roy I have a 6.0 what’s my normal temp on a hot day for my 6.0?
@@robroy9793 Yes I agree, if any connector has a sensor wire do not remove. The old clutch might has a heating element to heat up and engage the clutch. Replace the same if damaged, do not down grade. Electrical vs mechanical, electrical mostly win.
Hey man nice video I’m planning the same upgrade.....wanted your opinion on this water pump verses the bpd one if there’s no diff in performance I can’t see myself paying 200 dollars more for bpd pump that being said how is this pump doing for you? Thanks for the video...
IMO the price you see for the bpd one is due to the fancy paint and engraving. There is no benefit, diesel site one gives you small upgrade, reliability, affordability.
Hell ya thanks for the reply I’m going to put that money somewhere else maybe intercooler .....
gasket for the thermostat?
New Ford thermostat comes with the seal
What did you do with the old wires?
Tape them up and zip tie away
@@LeftLaneDiesels okay that's what I did but now my TFT sensor is going off
Trans temp? That is completely separate from from the fan clutch wiring. You have another issue.
@@LeftLaneDiesels I understand that but I saw somewhere that it is on the same wiring as the fan clutch
I believe the fan clutch is based solely on the coolant temp. I think it also gets a signal for when a/c is on. Do you have gauges to read what the trans temp is?
Hows the truck running today with the dieselsite waterpump and the 7.3 fan clutch? Any problems?
Runs great! No issues what’s so ever!
@@LeftLaneDiesels that's awesome man! Thanks to you I've found dieselsites waterpump which I'll be installing soon! Thanks again!
Thank you for to video
I just did this swap for about $200 and includes a fleet runnner belt.
You put it of money in that truck. How much you think youve invested?
Where r u located
Go to Home Depot and purchase one of the plastic concrete mixing tubs, small or large, it will keep your floor drier.
my o3 does not have that tab to hold it
James Gazdag all 6.0 oem tensioners will have the tab. That means your tensioner has been replaced with aftermarket.
@@LeftLaneDiesels could be aftermarket one but it does not have one some one before me might have changed it
Got an Early 03, 298,000 miles. Stock tensioner and second tensioner (Motorcraft from dealer), neither had that damn tab on it.
Ingersoll Rand Model 123MAX Short-Barrel Air Hammer
I would have clean the bolts for the pulley and water pump before putting loctite on it.
Pneumatic Fan Clutch Wrench Compatible with Ford, GM, Chrysler, Jeep Clutch Removal Tool Kit Replaces 43300
Serpentine belt
belt e450 2006 Econoline
Broooooo I just snuggled mines up and as soon as I shut the truck the fan fell off.
The problem I see here is that the A/C and transmission work differently on the 6.0. Both are computer controlled versus the more mechanical system used on the 7.3. I would think you will have much worse air conditioning performance in low speed, hot weather, driving. Ditto for transmission temps in tow haul mode. This will also set a pending code for fan speed not matching commanded. That said, those electronically controlled viscus fan clutches are pretty unreliable.
I’m having this problem I’m thinking of putting 4 Electric fans do you think that would help? Or fix it?
I live down south, the electrical fan clutch is awful for the AC in slow traffic. It is controlled by engine temp and will cut off the fan if you are idling in traffic and you will sweat until you start moving. Also I plan on using my excursion to haul a travel trailer and the mechanical clutch has proven to do a much better job in cooling. I just did the conversion and wish i had done it sooner. Thanks for all the great videos.
mine leaking
Nice job but that's the wrong antifreeze for that motor
Get how to video. Help me to complete my job.
The electronic 6.0 fan clutch gives better mph, it lets the fan free spin when it’s not needed. I’ve never hear of the wires getting caught in the blades. The stock 6.0 fan and clutch are extremely reliable when installed properly. I guess if folks want to down grade then it’s ones own choice, I sure as hell wouldn’t do this mod, seems like a ridiculous thing to do, I mean if you have the cash then fix it, if you don’t, then wait...but don’t Mickey Mouse it man! 👍🏻
Can’t believe he basically got rid of a free low temp thermostat
Please use antifreeze that's actually for diesels. That green stuff made me cringe. Enough additives and green will work, but just get the good stuff. And yes anticat filters are a must.